WTF...Honda Turns Itself ON & DRAINS the Battery?! (Part 1)
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- I have a feeling this ghost will be a pain in the ass to diagnose...
This possessed 2018 Honda Odyssey randomly decides to TURN ON THE IGNITION, and completely DRAINS THE BATTERY in a matter of hours! WTF!
Owner has been dealing with this extremely annoying issue for a few weeks.
He has resorted to DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY terminals every time he parks the van xD
His wife refuses to drive the van, and he wants it diagnosed and fixed ASAP.
How would YOU go about this diagnosis?
Keep in mind this problem is INTERMITTENT.
Sometimes the van is fine for a few days, then acts up unpredictably.
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Enjoy!
Ivan
I've had a very similar case study like this one. 2003 escape. Ultimately came down to finding that the instrument cluster had a bad diode, leaking voltage into the ignition power circuit that backfed the control side of a relay keeping that relay latched, providing power to the vehicle keeping the vehicle running. my move is exactly what you're doing in the bonus footage. These ones are always a challenge lol. (I actually ripped apart that instrument cluster and replaced the smc diode on the board and got the customer their car back vs throwing in a reman or used. pretty sweet)
Wow you certainly know your stuff but how many hours labour did you spend doing that.
@@deniscarr469 Very, very good point. If my memory isn't crap, 2-3 hours to narrow it down to the cluster. Then about 30min-1hr testing on the board and fixing it. Luckily the diode had a witness mark so it was easy to tell where the magic pixies went 🤣 add another two hours for a trip to fry's electronics (may they rest in peace) and reassembly. Definitely didn't charge them enough to cover a whole day project. Think I did diag, an hour for r+r, and $100 for the cluster fix. Eh, you win some, you lose some. Lady still comes back to see me every time she's got a problem though. Hard to come by in a woman, loyalty. 🤣
Bcm/keyless access module common on these Hondas and Acuras to cause this same problem as well as other problems. Keyless access module is part of the bcm on this Odyssey. Alldata has good info on the system description of the keyless access system, there is no literature of your issue, but it’s common and yes the bcm has been on back order for a long time
Even if green crusties were turning on relays, the car should not start due to the immobilizer not present. So, does car start when all this turns on?
Also.... how about pulling BCM fuse instead of battery every night, may be easier and cleaner to do.
Hope the BCM solved the problem.
didn't that year have the battery/battery terminal issues? I believe all sorts of bad things would happen.
Could you install a switch inline for the power to turn just the BCM off?
Wow that's a hard one to check
I'm a 62 year old guy who owns drives cars fixing cars every day since 1970s.
I still own drive 1970s 80s cars and one 2011 GM Vehicles...
I hate the 2011 car as I never know when the computer going to stop me driving as it's done a few times always for something simple but needed towing to an expensive garage .
Fuel consumption similar on all cars but 2011 bit more comfortable to drive but not reliable..
I hate cars with computers ..I never had any troubles with my old ones...
I would ck and see if there’s another key in the car left by accident from the cust, try starting the car w that one fob away from the car to see if there’s a hidden key somewhere in the vehicle, w that being said a keyless access control module still be bad, just saying
Can you get a used one? We are having problems with most cars that arrive at the shop. There are no spare parts, majority are cars with months of use.
Possible an internal BCM logic/memory state issue have you tried flashing the unit and reprogramming it?
I'm no mechanic but I think the fly on the flywheel is missing and the muffler belt is slipping
Give it an exorcist. Walk around the car screaming: Get out of this car, the power of Chrysler compels you.
Underrated comment here folks. Well done. Hahahaa.
This or get another one there and beat the everliving crap out of it. Then say and you're next if you don't stop it! "Stupid smart cars..." indeed.
LMFAO...ROFLMAO
Maybe a catholic priest can intervene
The car gave the owner a Fiat
Hello Iven, i smiled and clicked your video as soon as i saw the thumbnail! A new BCM will fix this car, i've been through a 2018 elite with the exact same symptoms and that was the fix. I am actually surprised it only took you an hour to reach that conclusion hence it took me a full day to make the call 😅. You are an excellent tech, and i am glade you decided to share your knowledge with the community. Good luck
All the symptoms are pointing to a problem at the BCM. Either a faulty connection to, or a faulty module itself. It is really difficult to tell at this point, but I can't argue with your hypothesis either as it does seem that the BCM is the most probable suspect. Something that caught my attention though was, there is an "updated" part listing for the BCM on a 5-year-old vehicle. Not an identical replacement part. And no related TSB's on it. Just something that makes you go humm? I am looking forward to part 2.
This is not an isolated instance, other Honda owners of similar age models (e.g. Civic, Pilot, CRV) have experienced the same symptoms and have either had the BCM replaced or are waiting for them to become available. There are a few people saying the keyless entry module was the cause, this is much cheaper and available so may be worth a look.
The transmitter control module went bad on my Acura, and caused similar issues
As a Honda Technician, if we have a vehicle that powers itself on by itself (usually also comes with intermittent alarm), and we see the gauge cluster turned on with the key nowhere near the vehicle, we know it's a BCM issue. Also for IGN1 alarms where the car sets off its alarm randomly by itself. On some models its the keyless entry instead of the BCM, but I believe that's really only on the Pilots. Basically whichever module controls 'turning on' the car when the start button is pressed, is the culprit.
Hey Ivan. I ran into this same problem with a 2017 crv a year ago. The BCM was unavailable.(still isn't) That really sucks for the customer. I even opened up the module to inspect for a possible manufacturing error. Found nothing. I do automotive electrical and diagnostic work for a living, and your right, the newer these cars get, the harder it is to find modules should they go bad. Good luck with your odyssey. My temporary solution was a constant duty solenoid to power up the micu/BCM.
Part of me would wonder if there is a key hiding somewhere. I’d delete out any keys but what you have, Just in case. There should be an encryption code shared between the ecm/bcm for each key that should be needed to power up the car. Replacing the BCM should invalidate the keys, and would also cause the same outcome.
It will be interesting if you can pair the bcm/ecm or if a dealer will have to do it.
The car would be able to start if there is another key inside, and it can't.
I had found a set of fobs with factory build sheet while detailing my Chevy truck. They were between upper back seat and cab wall. I saw a little piece of plastic hanging down and didn't know what it was until I kept pulling at it to get it out.
Honda possessed by devil 😬
Who you gonna call ? Pine Hollow Ghostbuster 😂
Miss the good old days when you could climb into the engine compartment to do repairs, actually see the spark plugs before you remove them, change a headlight for 5 bucks and a tail light for 50 cents, 7 dollars for a wheel bearing instead of 250 for a hub assembly.
The good old days when head lights had the brightness of a firefly in a mason jar, a 5.7l v8 made 120hp, a mid size family car got 14 mpg, and if you hit anything you were instantly killed.
@@JackS425 you know it
Amen.
@@JackS425 Yeah, good old days when $1/hour was a good wage.
Welcome to 2022 and new technology
This seems very similar to an issue my dad had with his 2018 Ridgeline. Honda has a service bulletin to replace the keyless access control unit. The alarm would also go off for no reason at times. Parts were not available for the ridgeline, the dealership turned off the smart lock feature and the issue has not returned.
I'm curious to know, if the brake pedal was held down would the car actually start? Time for an experiment
@@soundman6241
I don't think so. It has been a few months ago. After the auto lock feature was turned off, everything worked normally.
Try resetting the bcm by disconecting both positive and negative on battery and take 1jumper cable and connect positive and negative leads to engine together for 20mins and do these steps in reverse and bcm should go back to factory default settings, therefore fixing your problem. U r welcome.
I've seen this once. The owner put a spare key in a magnetic hide- a- key under the car. After market ebay key of course...... It would get wet and yup! Took weeks to pry that info out of customer.
I own a 2018 Odyssey with almost identical symptoms including the weird “lost power to alarm..” message on screen. It is very intermittent but the car has left me at least 5 times with a dead battery. I’m in SoCal and car has
Must be infuriating. Just out of warranty.....or is it? Is there dust in or on the connections? Maybe a lot of thieves are just driving around trying codes or seeing whose lights come on. Maybe drive in a different area.......
Does the car have "On-Star" type capability that can remotely start the car (without the key being needed)? Maybe that system has gone haywire. Also, I noticed a big dent on the driver side front fender. Maybe the car was in an accident and some wires got got messed with? Looking forward to Part 2, Ivan!!!
You know Ivan, putting a kill switch wired to the BCM would be a cheaper solution to the problem AND I think also a great theft deterrent. If a crook steals the FOB RF signal, there will be no way in hell they could steal the vehicle. I know push button start and theft is a huge problem for Toyota but all push button start cars are susceptible.
What device actually reads the presence of the key inside the vehicle? Is that device directly connected to the ignition button? My thought is if those two items are part of the same module behind the dash, then the BCM could be ok and that button-and-antenna module could be telling stories to the BCM. On the other hand, if they're completely separate, then it's more likely to be a fault in the BCM itself. Guess we'll see in part deux.
What was so difficult about putting a key in a hole and turning it to start?
The systems with a chip in a proper key were probably the most secure and reliable in my opinion.
Sounds like other owner has a remote start from a phone app.
My first thought too is a faulty remote start....I was going to tell Ivan to press lock three times on the remote...with all the doors closed.
I don't know about this option but could be
I think it could ONLY possibly be a remote start issue at this point. The alternative would require several cascading failures all at once.
I haven't read all the comments so don't know if this was asked/answered. Thinktool is powerful .. maybe try re-initializing the BCM right up front, before anything else?
I never heard of that tool before.
I had a 2019 Honda passport, all kinds of electrical issues. I had same issue as well as the vehicle would brake on its own, accelerate on its own. Rear tailgate opened with no command. Radio was an issue with noise, the dealer would do noting for me. I had less than fifteen thousand kilometers on it. Never solved it and got rid of it.
Wow what a lemon lol
Hey. Great video...my 2013 Honda Pilot 55,000 mi also was possessed. Navigation and radio constantly rebooted, headlights flash, close object warning flashes. All without the key present...and it would not start ...$2300 later it was a bad micu and 2 shorts in the wiring harness. omg
We fixed a couple pilots doing that At the dealership those two pilots would also sound the alarm of course conveniently at 1 o’clock in the morning lol
BCM was faulty? What year?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics 17 Pilot Elite Smart power control unit module and I miss spoke earlier it was a 17 or 18 Ridgeline. Smart power control unit. I didn’t look at our interactive network site I’m not sure if odyssey even uses this module but it certainly affects pilots I believe even a civic it would just turn the key on and sometimes you could not even turn it off with the button but I could be off Mark on this one I’m not sure if that Odyssey uses the smart module or not On the pilot it’s on the passenger side flip down the glove box mounted with one bolt below the airbag.
Had it been in an accident? I did notice a dent.
Is there another key flob in the vehicle somewhere dash under the seat.
Yeah I agree parts especially one containing logic boards have been hard to source. Leading to more eeprom work. But on that note would live to see what's inside that BCM Making it go crazy 🤪 maybe corrupt firmware or logic? Or ? Hopefully we could get to see a "no parts needed" fix! Lol. But seriously this is an interesting case study. Thanks fir sharing!
Your event gives credence to fears of artifical intelligence going amok.
It is always an 'adventure' when you share your troubleshooting. And you always seem to encounter the most perplexing of problems.
Well, at least we all now know why the dealer recommended a new tail gate module. They knew they couldnt get a BCM. lol!!
Always great videos Ivan, thank you. 60107 USA says hi.
I think I know where that dent came from on the drivers front fender. I think it's called a frustration dent.
I've witnessed a few a few of them in my lifetime.
Can you disable the BCM, or disable the signal buss from the BCM and see if the issue still happens?
my same thought
Spare Key in the glovebox ?
You mentioned adding a switch. How about turning off the Batt supply to the BCM? Maybe try that as a test first? Hoping to see a solution in part 2. Thanks for this part.
Remote start malfunction?
It's gotta be, I think.
This reminds me of a similar case I had with a 2015 BMW F20 1 series. The fuel pump would start running full speed at random when the car was parked and should be asleep. Eventually causing the battery to be discharged over night.
The fuel pump is controlled by a fuel pump control modules that regulates the fuel pump speed based on fuel demand coming from the engine control unit. A BMW dealership already replaced the fuel pump control module to no avail.
When it came to me I knew that the fuel pump should only be running at 100% if the fuel pump module is awake but has no communication with the engine control unit. Looking at a diagram it has a wakeup line. When it was acting up the wakeup line was raised to 12v thus waking up the module even though the engine control unit wasn't requesting fuel flow, causing it to start running at full speed. Looking at the diagram I disconnected every module on that wakeup line one by one and determined the FEM (Front Electronics Module, basically like a BCM controls everything like ignition, lighting, power windows, door locks, starter relay etc. ) was outputting 12v on the wakeup line when it shouldn't. I was ready to call the FEM until I found not a single used unit with Comfort Access like the car had and a new one from the dealer was way out of the customers budget. With that in mind I decided to dig a little deeper. When it acted up again I started removing connectors from the FEM one by one and noticed when I pulled 3 specific connectors out of the 10 that were connected to the FEM the fuel pump turned back off. Looking at pinouts for those connectors nothing looked really interesting except for a wakeup line going exclusively to the instrument cluster. I had noticed that when the car acted up the indicator lights on the cluster would light up. And what do you know, when pulling the pin for the cluster wakeup line out of the connector and reinserting the connector into the FEM the fuel pump remained silent. I reinserted that pin and just disconnected the the connector at the back of the cluster. Left the car for 2 days and 2 nights. Battery wasn't drained while it would be dead every morning cause of the fuel pump issue. Got a used instrument cluster, virginised it, programmed it to the car and the problem was solved. Sometimes you've just gotta know how the system works and dig a little deeper even though the answer looks straight forward. It might not be.
Great diagnostics process 👌🙂
I had something like this on a 1981 Ford Thunderbird Heritage Edition. This car had the electronic dashboard and things I had never seen in a car before. The interior lights and the dashboard were coming on by themselves. Now, this is long before any modern electronics or canbus or anything. I had a repair manual that was for the electrical and it contained flow charts. I messed with that thing for 2 days. It would be sitting outside and the interior lights would come on and the dashboard would light up. Turned out to be a bad lighting control module that was backfeeding through the ignition. This video reminds me of that. Great video!
Ivan, you have us as perplexed as you must be feeling right now. Just changed the oil in my 97 Dodge Truck and 02 Caravan. Can't say I'm really ready for what the automotive future looks like right now. Hope to get a some more time on the vehicles I have now. Trick or Treat? Thanks for Sharing!
I wonder if someone lost another key inside the car. Try reprogramming the key fob.
I was thinking the same thing. Maybe a previous owner lost a key fob under the seat and it periodically presses against something...
Ive seen this befor on my friends 2015 Colorado, he didn't fix it and problem got worse , eventually got to the point of engine starting and running by itself.. He had a rear leaking window that sometimes caused alot of moisture inside and I figured that may have somehow ruined the bcm. Replaced BCM and he hasn't had any problems since. So i believe you made the right call PH.
hey Ivan can you use your thermal imager to look at any heat signatures?
Not sure what I would image though 🤔
Hey Ivan, if needed I could send you an install guide for the add on remote start units that are basically plug and play. I have seen this same problem with a push to start Accord that turned out to be a faulty remote start. Also try pressing lock on the factory remote 3 times. If it has an add on remote start this should activate it.
Yeah, it's gotta be a remote start issue. Nothing else should be physically able to do this, this way.
Checking for a remote start add-on is an great idea.
I agree with your diagnosis but one problem I see is that let say the bcm is (seeing the key ) and turning the ignition on. I would think the car would start when pressing on the brake and pushing the start button when the ignition is on. Also I noticed what appears to be the red security light flashing on the cluster when the ignition comes on. I’m not disagreeing with you but It would be hard to call it the bcm when the fuse box could cause this too. Only way to tell is to isolate the ignition control feeds from the bcm to the fuse box. I enjoy your videos
Hi Ivan, I've been working in the field for 15 years and for the last year I've been watching all your videos, I've learned a lot and I apply it in my work too, you help me a lot, thank you. Your videos are great and I always watch them with an interesting, healthy and very happy look. Greetings from Israel :)
Owner should have just installed an old school battery isolator to be engaged when in park
Why did the Honda dealer ban you Ivan?
One of the first crazy ideas i had looking at this, is what if one of the owners lost the second key somewhere inside the car...?
Would it not turn on the BCM all the time rather than intermittently?
Hi Ivan, have you checked that the spare key is not in the glove box, or under the seat etc?
Bad BCM, had that on 2020 civic
Upd on the tap on bcm - if you crack bcm open youll find overheating signs on the main mcu, i believe its RH850 from renesas, if not mistaken
Unfortunately, my wife's 2017 Honda CRV is doing exactly the same thing. I watched both part 1 and part 2 of your diagnostics on the van. How is it possible that a vehicle with a proximity key starts itself without the key being present? Exactly what her CRV is doing. It only has 33k on it. Sadly, it's out of warranty because it's a 2017. I have no idea how much money this is going to cost to get it back up and running. Thanks for the video. Much appreciated 🙏
Good luck. New Hondas can suck sometimes lol
Ivan good call.(maybe)
In the early 1980s Volvo had a similar problem with the Volvo 340 CVT model.
If you left the car and closed the drivers door sometimes the car would start and if you left it in
gear the car would start up and drive away !!!!.
They introduced and new fuse box( now called BCM) and a different gear lever with a buzzer fitted to try
a warn people to not leave it in gear.
I was going to suggest a used BCM from a salvage yard then I see you are getting a used ebay one, good thinking. I don't know how Honda has their vehicle mileage stored though, if it's in the BCM or in the cluster. I wonder if in the BCM if there is a constant 12v source that is shorting to a 12v "switched" source and is powering it up when it feels like it. Intermittent electrical issues always so much fun. Interesting that Honda has an "updated" BCM part number.
On a slightly positive note Ivan, there is a company that makes computer chips that just bought a huge piece of property just north of Syracuse, NY. Could we see an end to the chip shortage by making them right here in the States? We shall see.
you will be needing an old priest and a young priest
Keyless access module. We’ve seen a lot of them on the Acura side. If the alarm was set, the alarm would go off and store a “IG1” as the trigger device.
You have a thing for weird cases, Ivan :-) It seems like a very educated guess to get a new BCM!
IMHO, a leaking capacitor can bridge tracks of a PCB and pass low current intermittent signals where they shouldn't go (e.g., the base of a sensitive transistor) making something act out of control, as you have there. So, the BCM being the only module providing power, ground and control voltage to the 4 relays, has got to be the culprit. Can't wait for Part 2 :-)
If it were my car and the part was that hard to get, I'd be opening the BCM to see if I could find the problem. Perhaps I could fix it. But there's also a good chance I'd at least see something wrong which assures me that this is the problem. Really, this problem doesn't feel like the computer itself, but I can believe that damage to the drivers could do it. In other words, this feels more like a green crusty problem than something requiring a logic analyzer.
Leaking capacitors rotting into the PCB on a 5 year old car? Possible but far less likely than with something a lot older. Green crusties otoh can happen to a brand new car. We went through a time when all capacitors in all products were suspect at any age. A whole mystery novel could be written about the cause of that one. Regarding Honda, this problem did attack my 1991 Acura in the ICU (intergrated control unit, 1991speak for a body module) causing the intermittent wipers to be...uh...intermittent. Then it went further and pretty soon you could turn on the left blinker and the right headlight would flash. 🤣🤣🤣I found a used ICU on EBAY, which was the only option at the time and it had the same problem but I was able o fix that one.
Once you get a reputation that proceeds you, stuff like this becomes the normal....
@@additudeobx I can say from experience that you are correct.
@@InsideOfMyOwnMind Water in the ECU could do much the same.
Guided parts cannon.... Not just the parts cannon. Big difference! But agreed, what else could it be what actually controls the keyless and starts that car?
Hi, its happening also with me with HONDA CITY 2023. After buy, within a month it happened first time ever and it drain while GAS TANK.. i thought it was my mistake as car is new but now today after 2 months it happened again and this time car was like really on (ready to drive) without even having car keys inside.. there is some really problem with MODULE
I'm having a similar problem with my 2017 honda hrv. When driving you hear the doors trying to lock and the headlights come on in hourly intervals. When it's cold below 30 degrees you can't set car alarm. But when car alarm is audible not a guarantee but the headlights don't come on. But still when driving you hear the car doors trying to lock..clicking sound.
I would try to scope between BCM, ignition key on.
See what's happening, what kind of voltage drop is going on there.
Other idea is to look at salvage yard, take kne from there if you can find 2016-2018 Honda Odyssey Elite
What if the bcm is faulty triggering the key on but the relay switch is stuck on continuously giving ground making it so only one faulty signal is needed to make bcm think key is in proximity.
I am curious as to why the dealer blamed the liftgate control module. That is a module that should have power at all times. Could it be feeding power back into the BCM? Seem like it would be a simple test to disconnect the liftgate control module when the car is acting up and see if the power to the cluster goes away.
Double bonus footage, Ivan?! You spoil us! But yeah, this "supply chain" nonsense is getting on everyone's nerves... Even if the world didn't use a J-I-T logistics system, (though it didn't help!) I wonder if warehousing could have smoothed out all this...
I forgot about the dealer who banned you.
We have 2018 Honda Odyssey with the same issue.
We had it at the dealership multiple times just for them to tell us we are leaving the keys in the vehicle.
Both alternator and battery check out fine.
It’s very intermittent as to when it will and won’t start due to dead battery. The vehicle can sit for 2 days, start, drive it 2 miles down the road, Park it, then return to it a few hours later to find it dead.
It can sit overnight and be dead the next morning.
We I’ve had the vehicle checked for parasitic draw. It checked out fine. The Auto technician told me when he plugged it up to his scanner, it showed it was in accessory mode. I know for a fact we are not accidentally putting it in accessory mode after parking it.
Do you think we’re replacing the BCM will be the fix??
3:17 My thoughts exactly, modern cars are over complicated for no good reason (well.... IMHO its the car industry trying to justify the over inflated prices of new cars)
Recently, Eric O had to repair a 2019 Silverado (after researching the Electrical Diagrams) with a 4 gauge cable to replace the factory ground strap. This is after the nearby Chevy Dealer tried to hose the customer out of over $3,000 for parts for the cannon.
2018 Hondas are problem children. My niece had a 2018 Accord and lives in a very rural area. Three seperate times while she was driving the entire dashboard lit up. Stay away from 2018 Honda products. There's been other issues with that year as well...
Drop it off at the dealer and have them toss parts on it😂. Once they are up to $, be like wtf 😂 “same as it was”. Then get manager and corporate involved
Kill switch sounds cheap. Or you could park it on the street with the key in it and hope somebody steals it. Pity the thief who steals it. Or get a dumb vehicle like my 2001 GM 4x4 1500 that gives me no grief.
No Way I want a 100% guarantied diagnosis :) You should just sit in the car for 7 or 8 days until you can scope the issue :) ROTFL
Honda discontinued there 2017 Ridgeline transmission stupidity
Good luck as the car ages
Honda's have gone way down hill! Had a 16 civic had electrical gremlins POS traded in 18 on a Prius no issues at all and it's a hybrid electrical menace! lol.127k not one issue starts every day hit the button and go!
Hi... humidity!!!!?
Keep in mind mostly Water or cok or coffee dripped over in electronic system
Verify that it is what's causing it, you can backprobe the circuit fuses when the issue is happening, if the bcm is the only module drawing current then you know that's it.
You said some others have claimed similar issues. So I would discount a possible aftermarket accessory at fault.
I'm not sayn this is your Honda's issue, but my 05 TL had a strange battery draw no start, no crank issue that wouldn't let the cluster go to sleep.While I thought it was the BCM, it ended up being the transmitter control module, which also controls the key fob signal, and programmable garage door opener etc. Pull that fuse, and the draw was gone, and the cluster went to sleep. Note that there were no codes. Note, that by pulling said fuse, no interior door lights work, no fob functions, but the car will still see anti theft signals from the fob, and the interior power trunk still works. So does the all door lock unlock function with the door key used. I can't figure out how Acura is separating all this, but i can at least run the car normally.
At 7.48 min. into video Bad ground to one of the computers. voltage dipes cause the computers to reset and do strange things. Next try varying power to the module you think is bad,
Remember the good old days when cars were dumb? Ignition switches should be physically actuated by a lock cylinder. I'm going to resist push button ignition cars as long as I possibly can.
A bit disappointed. I expect to see the oscilloscope proving a wrong output without the proper inputs, or random inputs due to faulty ground for instance. Watching most of your videos, I know you are right.
Just highlights the hassle of too much garbage electronics, what the feck was wrong with a good old mechanical ignition key lol .
All my personal and close family junk is 20+ year old vehicles, costs little to buy besides bit of time hand pick decent examples and they super reliable and cost less than a pizza to maintain lol .
No idea why people pay crazy money for the headache and hassle of new junk ... spend money on life adventures not on repair bill after repair bill and phone call after phone call to dealers and tow truck lol .
Have you tried LKQ for the part?
I'll give you the 800 number if you need it.
You should've ask. Your Man
John Fetterman He's a big hero in PA.
Intermittents are such fun! I've had them before, some take many days to locate. The wiring diagram was
the main helper along with one DMM and one Fluke 98 scope in DMM mode.
No green crusties, but a lot of heat related problems that caused the Intermittents. A heat gun sometimes helped.
You'll find it.
It's acting like something got spilled on it, I've saw this in an early Civic hybrid not identical situation but misbehaving keyless Honda
I feel your pain on Honda parts availability. My sister-in-laws 2018 Fit was rear ended in late December 2021. Took until August 2022 to get all the parts to repair it!
Hey Ivan why can't you just get the bcm from the salvage yard for $100 or less . That's what we do . We never have any issues with the used parts we get and the customers are happy with a used part .
Couldn't the tailgate module have a receiver that sends a message to the BCM when it thinks the key is nearby? idk, Honda's aren't my thing but who knows with these over engineered systems...
Wow, turns itself on lol. So fancy lol. It's weird that bcm is canned into question. I'll check part 2. Sorry for late responses as I've been out of the country on vacation. Lol
Had the same problem with my 2017 civic EX T. It was the BCM.
Something triggering that BCM to do that!? So, take wiring diagram and take approach like you knowing.
With house hold computers you can see a list of commands an time's they where executed. Can't cars do the same? At least you could follow what started up when.....
I wonder if the programming is corrupted. Maybe try reprogramming the old module.
what if it is that there is a neighbor with a car with the same key fob code?
key fobs have a limited number of codes especially today when car makers are trying to cheapen stuff even to the point of using old ancient technology ( no they wont use vacuum tubes) but they may use 4 to 8 bit coding systems witch limits the combinations to 256 so chances of getting a coincidence is greater.
if the car was an ev or hybrid it may turn on to warm the battery.
a long shot but maybe gm is not the only source for faulty ignition switch.
another possibility is the car is updating its firmware.
Remove bcm and supply powers and grounds, then put a test light on the ignition wires. Would eliminate all inputs and out side variables to see if the bcm turns on ignition circuit on it's own.
I do not know ii this TSB would apply to this car, and do not know if it has anything to do with the symptoms this car has. I also do not know how it could cause the car to turn on.
I do know,, this is an exceptionally interesting video. Very, very good.
The TSB is related to the Harness that connects to the third row seats that can get pinched and short out some wire or wires. I do not know what wire/wires that would get shorted, nor how a short here could cause the car to turn on. However, with these new cars it is almost impossible to say that - "That cannot happen." The Third Row seat almost certainly connects to the BCM. Just thought I would mention it.
One would have to look for this TSB using this vehicles VIN number to see if it applies, and maybe find out if it could cause this issue or not.
Omegaman69