Just a note. The tips in this video are still valid, however, I don't recommend the Push Plastic CF Nylon for most parts any more. As is the case with many low fiber content PA6 based Nylons, after absorbing water it becomes more flexible then it should be be. There are a lot of options out now, so look around figure out what's best for your application. Read data sheets!
I got few degrees and studied polymer and industrial chemistry. I think it's just as you said with smaller parts because they can't cool quickly enough especially while the hotend directly over or very close and bed is also hot below it's sandwiched between two hot sources unless you're support or distance between bed and hotend is sufficient that heat will bleed into the part. Now it's still not hardened because it's under both but as soon as the hotend moves the area above is the cooler area and generally you'll see the plastic bend up towards cooler as heat wants to flow to cold areas so the object and all the heat is trapped begin creeping towards the coolest side generally above where the head no longer is. 😀 I hope that makes seem like very smart young man
I got eSun and sainsmart carbon fiber filament and both suck I can't get my Ender S1 to print properly. eSun Pla plus is easier to use it's funny tho esun white works better than black it's weird. I want the cosmetic look of carbon fiber & to of course not fall apart or be nothing but ugly lvls with tons of burrs. Running a Ender S1 with sprite h
Reason why warm bed warps the print seems to be related to expansion/contraction with heat difference. When the plastic is warm, it expands and when it cools it contracts. If the lower layer is on the warm bed, the upper one is cooled and shrinks, warping upwards. I work with nylon quite a bit and found that the best solution is to have a mildly warm bed like you suggested but also have a couple of infrared lamps shining from above on the print/bed, keeping the upper layers warm
Like with ABS, any heat sensitive plastic needs to be printed in an enclosure, where the ambient temperature is much higher than a printer sitting in the open. You could use an infrared lamp as you said, I actually never thought of that. But having an enclosure that is heated up, even just by the printer itself, before it starts the print should solve most of those issues.
I have not personally tried it, but I heard of many people having success by using skirts. The skirt 'protecting' the part from breezes and locking in the bed temp better. Although for a large part such as lowers, probably won't work as well.
In my understanding it’s even more simple then that. A hot heatbed prevents the material to solidify completely. The heatbeds heat dosn’t reach the upper layers so the upper ones cool down and contract and as the lower ones are still soft they don’t have the rigidity to withstand that tension the upper layers are putting on them. So basically your right except the part where you’ve said that hot layers extend. They don’t because the expansion happens before they’re extruded as they’re getting heated up. 👍🏻
2 years later and here i am sitting here printing..........thangs. excited to see how it all ends up. thanks for doing what your doing. Anyone whos uneasy about getting into it, id start with the super safety. Good Luck!
I just got to say, I'm only 2 minutes into this video, but I have to comment about the simple fact that you openly admitted to being wrong in the past. I'm telling you, that is a huge deal in today's world. A lot of people much older than you could and should learn from you. I'll subscribe for that reason alone. Keep it up!
A few things, to correct those who have been commenting: Nylon gets tougher but weaker when exposed to moisture. So it can take larger impacts, but will break more easily under strain/load. You can print PA12, PA66, CoPA and Taulman 910 and 645 at 255-260C on an ender 3. If you use a bimetal heatbreak you can reprogram the Ender 3 to safely go up to 300C which will free you to print with PC (polycarbonate) or PA6. For the lower temperatures, Taulman 910 is really incredible stuff. Polymaker PA6GF (glass filled) is a pretty great material, their carbon fiber filled is a little bit more finicky and acts more hygroscopically in my anecdotal experience, though both benefit from aggressive drying before using...every...time...(80C for 24+ hours).
The link between impact resistants and tensile strength is pretty common among polymers. It's a trade off between many plastics. TPU is indestructible, but weak.
Polymakers polymide pa6-cf is fantastic. We print it everyday at work for durable manufacturing tools. We have even printed custom sockets that go on 1/2" battery impact tools and get used every day. Polymakers material is also great because bed temp can be as low as 40c. However i always print with a raft at 290C nozzle temps just for garanteed success. Also always make sure to anneal the parts it can make a huge difference in durability and strength.
It is I used NylonX, NylonG, taulman bridge, I could go on for days. That’s what I do is engineering grade filiments. The stuff is awesome. Pa6-cf or pa-12-cf is excellent. Garolite with Vision Miner “Nano” adhesive it’s literally impossible for it to warp even in a non heated build enclosure. You’ll have a hell of a time getting it off the garolite with a light brim. Vision miner “Nano” is got to be the best polymer adhesive on the market and the price at $50 for 120ml reflects this. Both worth its weight in gold.
Shoutout to the local boys at Push Plastic! I was just in their store front the other day picking up some good PLA. They're great bunch of guys and they're very passionate about what they do.
addressing your comment about problems with small parts. One solution is to design a sacrificial support on the top of the part attached with tabs. That will hold the part in place during cooling and avoid most of the warping. You'll just have to cut off the excess afterwards and do some small post process cleaning.
Ive always had issues with nylonx , specifically shrinking where for instance cartridges dont fit in magazines. But i just used nylonG and with the default mattercontrol settings for nylong on a pulse xe printed a g19 lower in 15 hours and it has been the best ive made yet. Strongest and fasted print time i was quite amazed
Good video, recently subscribed. I’ve always taken poor bed adhesion to result in warping no matter the material, including PLA. I would argue it can halt curling and other warping.
The most reliable way to ensure perfect bed adhesion, is to first print a raft of pla and then printing your nylon part onto this with a slightly reduced z height, which embeds the first layer into the pla (60-70⁰c bed)
Something to keep in mind with steel nozzles, because of the poor thermal conductivity of steel compared to brass, assume an extra 15 degrees for steel. I've switched to a Phaetus tungsten nozzles, and while it's pricey, it's pretty good, and I can use it for all materials with confidence that I'm pushing my filament through a quality nozzle, without needing to push my printer hotter than I need to.
Even though you have jump cuts in your videos (I would argue they make for much more digestible content), your speaking ability, tone, flow, and inflection are great! keep it up!
Hey man good for you everything you've said in this video was absolutely and mouthful and I would have started a million times you make great material I hope you keep up and all The people following you really appreciate the material
There are some filaments with Polycarbonate mixture and PCTF (Teflon), providing some really tough properties for prints, including thermal and abrasion resistance.
hey hoffman love the videos, they have taught me a bunch and inspired me to do some really cool projects. Thanks for taking the time. Also, have you ever tried adding a light epoxy coating to the finished print for added water resistance from warping? could be an easy and affordable addition to post processing to add some extra protection.
Just an FYI for people using enders and/or glass beds. I printed small parts with 35°C bed temp and did get slight lifting on the edge of small prints. That same print at 40°C had essentially no lifting and printed well. I assume the less thermal conductivity of the glass bed needs a bit more temp than with steel beds to get great adhesion. Stock glass bed with 2 layers glue stick 85-90C first layer, then 40°C rest of print and you should have no issue with warping. Plus if you have an enclosure that hot first layer will help get your enclosure above 100°F for better layer adhesion.
@@crazywormy5869 Don't be a douche, what do you think he is trying to do by asking the question. What's with all the gatekeeping in 3Dprinting just answer the damn questions and help people out when they ask.
I recently bought a spool of SainSmart 25% CF Nylon and am printing on a modified Ender 3 Pro with the 32 bit board, flashed firmware, and all metal hotend with steel nozzle, and a glass bed with Aquanet hairspray. I've got a functional durable DD17.2 with great layer strength and flexibility, and though the front did warp a little, it doesn't affect performance. I print this stuff at, drumroll please, 240-245c. Ran a temp tower that ranged from 270 down to 230 and the 240-245 range had the best bridging and overhang of them all. I didn't even need to flash the firmware for higher temps lmao... Your mileage may vary. I did half my speed though, 25mm/s, slow and steady wins the race. For my enclosure I have one of those Creality tube frame reflective soft fabric enclosures and for enclosure heat I have an old lamp wire with an incandescent lightbulb hung from the top. 95% of incandescent lightbulb light is released as heat so it keeps the enclosure NICE and toasty, and it's janky enough to be a great conversation piece. I'll have to experiment with the first layer hot and following layers cool because I went 85c bed the whole way, and that likely contributed to my warping. To add to this, I've also got a Hoffman AR9 ejector in this CF Nylon, and the AR9 mag release, both of these had NO warping even though they're small pieces. Very satisfied with the results. Will be buying this stuff more.
This was the most discreet and to-the-point way to say “subscribe” without actually saying it. To the point that I hit the subscribe AND the notif bell just out of respect
It depends greatly on the humidity level where you live. As the parts cool, they’re taking on moisture from the humidity and some testing shows that getting some moisture in to it after printing can actually strengthen the part. Some people use steam to straighten the part testing the moisture level in until it matches the natural humidity is in your area. Other people heated up straightening it and throw it in the cool water. Others get it as straight as possible heat gun and then seal it so no moisture can get in. So it come down to everybody in their particular location will have to find what works appropriate for them. Nothings going to work for everybody.
If you’re doin things on the cheap, and you don’t wanna go out and get glass or garolite. Nylon sticks to cellulos pretty well, so after failing to get proper adhesion with a smooth print plate and glue stick, I stuck Un wrinkled News paper to the plate and put glue stick on that. It Immediately fixed the problem of adhesion and the benchy print came out perfect with perfectly smooth surfaces. Def, follow the hoffmeister here and star with 90c bed temp for first layer and bring it down to 35c for the rest of the print
Also as far as the nylon parts warping when smaller, I would try looking into using a garolite bed if you haven't already. They are really good for small nylon adhesion.
I actually started with a Garolite be when printing Nylon, but was not overly impressed! I think printing smaller parts very slow and with a raft is the trick.
I have printed Nylon X on a Ender 3 V2 with glass hotbed ad glue stick on a bed temp of 70*C with fantastic results. My first few prints ever with the material, I was experiencing some elephants foot action on the bottom, but I haven't had any problems since. I might give 35*C a try.
@@covrtdesign5279 Right on, I have an ender 3 pro and glass bed as well. the front (magwell) seemed to start pulling up on me but I decided to let it run and see what happens since it was 10 hours into the print, my bed temp is 55 though so im wondering if thats why, fan speed at 20%
Hey Bro I got an ender 3 v2 with an all metal hotend, but I can't seem to edit the firmware to let me go above 300c. Can you by chance send me the bin file?
Have you tried printing on a polycarbonate plate? I use it instead of glass especially for petg and PC and it works soooooo well. Plus it's flexible so you can pop parts off like a steel bed. Super cheap and readily available as well. I have not tried nylon on it yet though.
Alloy 910 is impressive stuff. I have used it in very demanding roles and it took a serious beating under a lot of heat. The layer adhesion is really good. One subject that I would like to see get more attention is creep deformation. I hear that the CF mitigates that somewhat in nylon, but I wonder how much?...
An easy way to dry out these types of filaments is to cut the lid off of a filament box, set your bed to 90C, put the filament on the bed, and then put the box over top of the filament. Leave it there for 12 to 24 hours. Afterwards you’re good to go.
Even when forging metal having your piece too hot and then it cooling down quickly always ends up in a warped blade,, so allowing a little by little to drop some temp it may settle into form slower and thus keeping intended or original shape shape without so called flash cooling which most the time the sudden change will allow for molecules to change in many ways that causes problems either warping, decrease in structural integrity and such. Kinda rambling, but the larger prints or pieces (giving different sides time to cool some before layering) and paired with a cooler bed allows for it to settle into semi final shape as printing is in process thus eliminates warping. Of course these are rambling and a unfounded hypothesis just using similar experiences with different mediums. Although have a lot of knowledge in graphic design, firearm mechanics, and applied engineering and would like to learn with some hands on experience. Furthermore there are a few different designs that may be more suitable due to their natural shape and the way they are constructed that may be more conducive to this type of manufacturing as well.
Running my carbon nylon from eSun at 260 for the nozzle and 60 for the bed, paper tape as a base. No warping, excellent adhesion, no delamination. Just a bit of stringing as I forgot to adjust the retraction settings. Nothing a little post machining can't fix.
would be cool to post your entire slicer settings for cf nylon. as id assume you have fine tuned your settings. also id like to see a hoffman twist on the kf5 id bet you got ideas to make it better somehow..
Not to long ago I built my first pew pew now I’m addicted lol… always thought 3d printing was interesting so I looked into it and stumbled across this never even thought it was possible but now I’m interested
Nylon can be made tuffer/stronger by soaking the finished part in water not sure if temperature of the water all though my gut feeling is start a soak with warm water and then allow the water to cool down slowly to room temperature. Your anti-wrapping sound good I will try them.
I have no idea if it would work but I am planning on experimenting with stabilizing resin. You can take a piece of half rotten wood.....dry it out in the oven to 0% moisture content... submerge it in resin (I use SOS brand but Cactus Juice is similar) under vaccum....then cure it in a oven at 220°F and it becomes strong enough to make mallet heads out of. I'm going to see if it will do the same for a ........ !!!!
Tougher, NOT stronger. It will increase impact resistance and WILL LOWER its tensile strength. Depending on the type of polyamide, it will weaken as much as 75% depending on how much water you let it absorb.
It increases its toughness by sacrificing strength for ductility. Just like heat treated steels are tempered to increase toughness at the cost of some hardness.
Thank you for the tips, I will try them. I am having trouble with some parts that have a large variation in cross sectional thickness near the print bed. They are warping like crazy using the Nylon X.
The reason for the warping issue happening with high heatbed temps is as followed: A hot heatbed prevents the material to solidify completely. The heatbeds heat dosn’t reach the upper layers so the upper ones cool down and contract and as the lower ones are still soft they don’t have the rigidity to withstand that tension the upper layers are putting on them. Hope that makes sense.
I am using the BuildTak nylon surface with no adhesive, and a bed temp of 55C. I have had no adhesion or warping problems using the 3DXTECH glass filled nylon.
Outstanding work as usual! Glad to see that carbon fiber nylon isn't just a gimmick and indeed has some potential. These videos make me want to set up a tester myself and try out different annealing processes to see if they help. I've seen a few different approaches, from casting in plaster and baking at glass transition temperature to relieve stresses and improve layer adhesion, to boiling in water. The latter seems kinda yikes, but at the same time, I wonder what increasing the moisture content of nylon after printing would do to its properties? Anyway, great job with this video. You're inspiring others with your work on this.
PA12-CF is a great carbon fibre filament that doesn't seem to care about moisture. I've had CF filament that after a while, the printed parts become soft, but PA12-CF is much less affected by moisture.
Don't know if this has been mentioned already, but we used Nitrogen to dry nylon before extrusion/molding in real world industrial settings. You have to be careful to not have the flow of gas too high as the tank of nitrogen is in a liquid state and the nitrogen gas comes out cold. That can chill the nylon and cause condensation from the surrounding air which is obviously bad and opposite of what you want. But when done correctly it's like Tig or Mig welding and there will be no moisture to cause the melted nylon to foam or spatter. You just want enough flow from the tank to displace the surrounding air and make sure you have adequate ventilation or you can displace the oxygen you need to breathe. Air is already mostly nitrogen so that's only a problem in a confined closed space. Just have good ventilation.
Use a raft on your smaller parts.. ive ran into this in the past.. small nylonx parts warp.. the only thing that worked for me was adding a raft. But GREAT vid man!!
Great suggestion. A raft is just what I used to get the small test samples to print, they still warped, but the print was able to complete and the samples where ready to be broken.
A dot of Elmers white diluted in water and spread across a glass bed (or any other) will make the nylon bond to it very well (maybe too well) the pva/Elmer's white is water soluble so can usually soak a glass bed in water to dissolve it and get it to release
Have you tried printing a mold for casting ? The Freedom-15 mold kit could probably be improved with the strength of the new designs particularly where the buffer tube attaches
regarding the bed temperature tip: i tried PA12-CF15 from Fiberlogy with 270°C Nozzle and 100°C Bed Temperature (Printer fully enclosed, Chamber gets to around 60°C), used some PVA Gluestick on a Textured PEI bed, and it came out wonderfully... Layerlines are almost invisible, layer adhesion is strong enogh for my needs. All of this at printing speeds at around 200mm/s, 80mm/s for the first layer. Dried the spool at 70°C for 12 Hours prior to printing, and printed right off that dryer while it was still running. For smaller parts i activate part cooling at around 30%.
Much respect to you for all you contribute, and I guess your experience is your own, but I find it frankly absurd to say that PLA+ is the most impact resistant material. It seems like this specific community cannot get off PLA for some reason, despite the fact that it really isn’t that hard to print better stuff.
It may seem strange because it's so cheap, but PLA+ is really good stuff! It's thermal resistance is it's only downside, which can be a big problem. Hence the Nylon. But PLA+ still remains a incredible plastic, which is why it's so popular. Also it's very low cost. Impact resistance is something that is hard to quantify. In my testing PLA+ has given the best results, but not all the time. Some PLA+ is better then others.
@@HoffmanTacticalI'm curious on your thoughts between Nylon and PC? I just ordered some Polymax PC to play with, but i hear it is very finicky and would push the limits of my prusa, I know you have used PC in the past, is it worth the trouble?
@@Liccarus I've only used a couple PC blends. I think the CF Nylon is better. But it's a lot more expensive. The Polymax PC may be a good option, I just have not tried it yet.
you get around a lot of the warping of nylon going to glass or CF filled, but you can fix that and your layer adhesion problems by getting/making an enclosure and keeping it 80-120f for your print. if you did that, you should be able to dial this process in for cf nylon and dump any remaining arguments for pla+
PLA+ will still have a very convincing argument though ;) 25% the cost and any printer can run it. And a lot of people, including myself, will never expose it to the high temps that may damage it. So it still remains an awesome plastic.
@@HoffmanTactical true, youre never going to make nylon particularly cheap or easy to use. but for a durable product that you need a limited quantity of, those become less important. what I really want to see people iterate on, is integral stock/buffer. this should be possible with a 400mm bed (500 would be better), and should trade some of the weak points for ones that are easier to solve.
@@CraneArmy That's the way I look at it, but some are on a tighter budget then myself. As to an integral stock / buffer. I've not worked on such a design for two reasons. Printers that big enough are not common. And I don't think it would help make it stronger. If no metal reinforcement was used, maybe, but with the buffer band I don't think it would add any strength. The lower always breaks forward of the buffer tower. So no amount of plastic behind that would help.
@@HoffmanTactical they are available. Someone doing the research can find one with 400mm in at least z for ~500 from most of the reputable brands. The thing that I'm less sure about is a proper heated bed the right size, I think if it was going to get complicated, it would be here. I havent watched all of your videos so I dont know the failure youre getting, but I'm assuming the breaks youre seeing are common to other plastic parts like this and are forward of the buffer tower but behind the grip. adding an integral stock that attaches behind the grip gives you two things, and the smaller thing, is you can attach the stock behind the grip anywhere you want increasing the width of plastic at that point making it more rigid while resisting the moment forces on the tower, I think this is what you were thinking about and you should be able to make it marginally better, although you shouldnt need the long part for this, you could just do it (maybe you have? difficult to tell). the bigger thing, is you can direct force that normally is directed through the buffer tower, around it into the part directly aft of the grip. both of these things together should compound for a part a few multiples stronger.
This might be a dumb question but what about printing in PLA+ and then coating the whole receiver in a layer or 2 of Epoxy or Super Glue for added heat resistance ?
I've been wondering about such things myself. It might be a dumb idea but I've been pondering cylindrical voids (areas as if you ran a drill through the print aligned with where you need strength) into the piece, parallel channels in the piece like lightening cuts, other hollows in the item that can be filled with epoxy or maybe even JB weld. Basically reinforcing 'rods' like rebar in concrete. Again, might be incredibly stupid for some reason I'm not bright enough/experienced enough to notice, but I think it's worth experimenting with.
Great video as always. How do you keep the support material from gunking up in the small, tighter areas where they may be needed... I'm trying to print a "part" but the supports either gunk up, or are completely inseparable from the main body of the part. Thanks.
I’ve gotten good results with bluetape, gluestick and 110 degree bed with regular nylon. Litteraly one of the most beautiful and warp free prints I’ve made
had nothing but huge success with Nylon X, and Priline Carbon fiber polycarbonate for the last 4 years. CFPC is def a finicky one but really good as long as you get your settings honed in
one thing you did not mention was fan usage. Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate needs fan on even on first layer. On my Prusa, I have it permanently turned on for 60% on first layer then down to 50% the rest of the layers. Some reason, Prusa has fan turned off on anything carbon fiber by default. but Ive done countless tests with benchie, and the XYZ cubes with different fan speeds with 260C nozzle, and 90c bed. If fan is off or less than 50%, you will see layer separation with angles and overhangs. 13:00 in your video you were talking about warping, try turning bed temps up and turning fan on at higher speed.
I never had print issues with the CF-PC from Priline, I was just not impressed with the physical properties, It's really a ABS blend. I definitely need to revisit NylonX.
Coat that bed with pva glue. I Have been using eSUN cf Nylon. Ender 3 heavily upgraded. Part fan off, 25% for any overhangs. 285c nozzle 60c bed To avoid curling. Mix up pva with some water 10-1, heat bed to 70c then use a wet cloth and dip it in the pva water mix and apply a coat to the build plate ( i use the creality buildtac type plate). The heat in the bed will flash off the water and leave a coating of pva glue. Then pre heat as normal and start your print. As for filament drying I keep the hydroscopic filaments in a zip lock with dessicant and a hydrometer. Place next to a radiator to keep them dry no oven needed.
Thoughts on Impossible Object's fabric layering based method where it gets heat treated all at once instead of one layer at a time? It's probably more towards industrial scale parts making but still very interesting even so for more stable parts where they can be legally mass produced.
I just printed with push plastic pla + high heat. Apparently same as pla + but higher heat tolerance. Wondering if you seen it or tried it. I greatly appreciate your work and testing you do for us. Keep up the awesomeness.
I get problems with solid models warping, more than something hollow like a receiver. I find I can fix this by using a smaller infill percentage. If I'm in a situation where I need a really tough part I can compensate a bit by pausing and taking breaks or by increasing print speed. While not really applicable for something like a firearm, I find people new to printing choose a much higher infill percentage then is really warranted. Try standing on a failed print or hit it with a hammer. You might be surprised.
I was about to get a ruby nozzle, but after some reading I decided that a tungsten carbide nozzle would be better choice. Better thermal transfer and almost as hard. We'll see how it works!
@@HoffmanTactical Im sure the TC nozzle will work just fine. I've used the ruby nozzle quite a bit and while it is a great nozzle, if the ruby hits the bed during a travel movement it has a good chance of cracking or chipping, ruining your $100+ nozzle... no fun for wallet....
Qidi make great cf nylon but its over 200 a kg in Canada except for last weekend. All the expensive filaments were on sale on Amazon for valentines for some reason. I use a tent with glue stick for bed slingers. But i got a qidi x-plus 3 and gave away my old printers.
Hey love the content. I have been recently trying to print with carbon fiber nylon . Is there any recommended brands you could point out to me for frames and lowers
Hi I’m new to 3D printing and I was wondering if you can show/talk about your setup .. I don’t know where I can set up my printer to keep the room temp that hot.. thanks
So grab a sponge and squeeze it at the top and you will see the bottom of the sponge curve up or warp. Higher bed temps cause this because the part needs to cool as even as possible so it shrinks as even as possible and maintains bed adhesion.
If you don't have an enclosure, the best way and easiest way to get around warping is to use a raft it definitely helps the warping the raft will warping before ur peice does a littl3 safe guard
Interesting video as I've got a new roll of CF PLA in front of me. Currently waiting on my steel nozzle. Have you thought of remixing the Hoffman Tactical AR lower for 9mm Glock mags?
I'm working on the AR9 version now ;) As to CF PLA. I think a CF PLA+ would be interesting, but a CF plain PLA may not be much better then without the CF. I've not tried it though.
I printed certain automotive components with PLA and the heat is a huge problem. I dont know if PETG might be a better option to use. Most parts are mechanical parts inside door panels and dashboards etc. The original parts are ABS or a white type of plastic that really burns your nose and eyes if it is burned by flame (did it for test purposes). Now there nylon parts might do the job, but if PETG is going to do the trick, i wont use nylon, just because of the price tag and hassle involved.
Awesome vid, thanks for the advice. I now can print my carbon fiber. I’m also trying allow 910 high heat and it warps no matter what I do. I need to print gears for rc and don’t think carbon fiber is the way to go. What brand nylon would you recommend. Thanks
New to watching your channel, great information and your detail is excellent. I have purchased a A2 steel nozzle and cfpc poly carbonate carbon fiber. I have not tried it yet since my WIFE took over my printer recently. 🤬. Anyone have direct experience with this stuff. If so what's your thoughts and settings you've played with. Again thanks for your channel.
I've used the CF PC from Push Plastic. I think it will work, but I found that CF Nylon has better layer adhesion and impact resistance and is just as easy to print. So that's what I use now.
Just a note. The tips in this video are still valid, however, I don't recommend the Push Plastic CF Nylon for most parts any more. As is the case with many low fiber content PA6 based Nylons, after absorbing water it becomes more flexible then it should be be. There are a lot of options out now, so look around figure out what's best for your application. Read data sheets!
I got few degrees and studied polymer and industrial chemistry. I think it's just as you said with smaller parts because they can't cool quickly enough especially while the hotend directly over or very close and bed is also hot below it's sandwiched between two hot sources unless you're support or distance between bed and hotend is sufficient that heat will bleed into the part. Now it's still not hardened because it's under both but as soon as the hotend moves the area above is the cooler area and generally you'll see the plastic bend up towards cooler as heat wants to flow to cold areas so the object and all the heat is trapped begin creeping towards the coolest side generally above where the head no longer is. 😀 I hope that makes seem like very smart young man
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@@dreknows I would think there is a remedy in the slicer? Maybe you could come up with a plug in?
@@dreknows or pause between layers?
I got eSun and sainsmart carbon fiber filament and both suck I can't get my Ender S1 to print properly. eSun Pla plus is easier to use it's funny tho esun white works better than black it's weird. I want the cosmetic look of carbon fiber & to of course not fall apart or be nothing but ugly lvls with tons of burrs. Running a Ender S1 with sprite h
Reason why warm bed warps the print seems to be related to expansion/contraction with heat difference. When the plastic is warm, it expands and when it cools it contracts. If the lower layer is on the warm bed, the upper one is cooled and shrinks, warping upwards. I work with nylon quite a bit and found that the best solution is to have a mildly warm bed like you suggested but also have a couple of infrared lamps shining from above on the print/bed, keeping the upper layers warm
Like with ABS, any heat sensitive plastic needs to be printed in an enclosure, where the ambient temperature is much higher than a printer sitting in the open. You could use an infrared lamp as you said, I actually never thought of that. But having an enclosure that is heated up, even just by the printer itself, before it starts the print should solve most of those issues.
This is why most people use the insulated enclosures for their printers
@@shaneintegra Im not sure most people use them but this situation is exactly why they make them
I have not personally tried it, but I heard of many people having success by using skirts. The skirt 'protecting' the part from breezes and locking in the bed temp better. Although for a large part such as lowers, probably won't work as well.
In my understanding it’s even more simple then that. A hot heatbed prevents the material to solidify completely. The heatbeds heat dosn’t reach the upper layers so the upper ones cool down and contract and as the lower ones are still soft they don’t have the rigidity to withstand that tension the upper layers are putting on them. So basically your right except the part where you’ve said that hot layers extend. They don’t because the expansion happens before they’re extruded as they’re getting heated up. 👍🏻
What a fine young man. He really gave me hope for future generations 😃
One guy won't save the whole world...unless he's someone like Jezus
@@marlenakiepinska1190 and that is why no one will remember your name
@@ChocolatteDee hahahahaha! yours too buddy, yours too
@@marlenakiepinska1190 🤡
@@marlenakiepinska1190 doing, done, will do more than you will ever dream of cutie pie 🥰
2 years later and here i am sitting here printing..........thangs. excited to see how it all ends up. thanks for doing what your doing. Anyone whos uneasy about getting into it, id start with the super safety. Good Luck!
I just got to say, I'm only 2 minutes into this video, but I have to comment about the simple fact that you openly admitted to being wrong in the past. I'm telling you, that is a huge deal in today's world. A lot of people much older than you could and should learn from you. I'll subscribe for that reason alone. Keep it up!
Or even a bad one master race.
A few things, to correct those who have been commenting: Nylon gets tougher but weaker when exposed to moisture. So it can take larger impacts, but will break more easily under strain/load.
You can print PA12, PA66, CoPA and Taulman 910 and 645 at 255-260C on an ender 3. If you use a bimetal heatbreak you can reprogram the Ender 3 to safely go up to 300C which will free you to print with PC (polycarbonate) or PA6.
For the lower temperatures, Taulman 910 is really incredible stuff.
Polymaker PA6GF (glass filled) is a pretty great material, their carbon fiber filled is a little bit more finicky and acts more hygroscopically in my anecdotal experience, though both benefit from aggressive drying before using...every...time...(80C for 24+ hours).
The link between impact resistants and tensile strength is pretty common among polymers. It's a trade off between many plastics. TPU is indestructible, but weak.
I tried 10.5 hrs at 110 C and I'm still not sure it's dry.
Polymakers polymide pa6-cf is fantastic. We print it everyday at work for durable manufacturing tools. We have even printed custom sockets that go on 1/2" battery impact tools and get used every day. Polymakers material is also great because bed temp can be as low as 40c. However i always print with a raft at 290C nozzle temps just for garanteed success.
Also always make sure to anneal the parts it can make a huge difference in durability and strength.
It is I used NylonX, NylonG, taulman bridge, I could go on for days. That’s what I do is engineering grade filiments. The stuff is awesome. Pa6-cf or pa-12-cf is excellent. Garolite with Vision Miner “Nano” adhesive it’s literally impossible for it to warp even in a non heated build enclosure. You’ll have a hell of a time getting it off the garolite with a light brim. Vision miner “Nano” is got to be the best polymer adhesive on the market and the price at $50 for 120ml reflects this. Both worth its weight in gold.
@@vicewize Awesome! We also use nano adhesive. Couldnt recomend it more.
And the process for annealing the printed object ?
What printer are you using that you get your nozzle up to 290?
How much shrinkage can I expect when annealing the poly? Do you adjust in the slicer? I just got 2kg today.
Lmao at the 2 ATF Agents who hit thumbs down.
FTATF lol
Fuck’em
Back when you could thumbs down
Nope, sorry; I was laying in bed and dropped my phone on muh face.
@@joshmellon390 it's ok, we don't blame you, officer
Thanks for posting this, I am looking forward to the tests! Definitely going to apply some of this to my 3d printer.
Shoutout to the local boys at Push Plastic! I was just in their store front the other day picking up some good PLA. They're great bunch of guys and they're very passionate about what they do.
That's cool. I've not been buying as much from them recently, but they do have some new filaments I might need to try.
Please keep doing what you're doing bud. You're getting me interested in 3D printing. Now I just have to figure out where to start and what to buy
get an ender 3 pro. i got one and its pretty easy. 230$ is what i paid. prints lowers and more.
Awesome, thank you bud
I got a Voxelab Aquila, which is a clone of the ender 3 V2, for $170 shipped (brand new). It is tuned great right out of the box and is easy to use
The n4 runs klipper out of the box too and uses the same sbc all the new printers use.
addressing your comment about problems with small parts. One solution is to design a sacrificial support on the top of the part attached with tabs. That will hold the part in place during cooling and avoid most of the warping. You'll just have to cut off the excess afterwards and do some small post process cleaning.
Ive always had issues with nylonx , specifically shrinking where for instance cartridges dont fit in magazines. But i just used nylonG and with the default mattercontrol settings for nylong on a pulse xe printed a g19 lower in 15 hours and it has been the best ive made yet. Strongest and fasted print time i was quite amazed
Nylon X is dogshit, my print crumbled in my hands.
@@krollmond7544 NylonG is the way to go
Good video, recently subscribed. I’ve always taken poor bed adhesion to result in warping no matter the material, including PLA. I would argue it can halt curling and other warping.
Definitely! Poor bed adhesion will lead to problems, however, it's not enough to prevent warping if other factors are not correct.
This is a killer VID. You're dealing out a ton of info. Subscribed!
The most reliable way to ensure perfect bed adhesion, is to first print a raft of pla and then printing your nylon part onto this with a slightly reduced z height, which embeds the first layer into the pla (60-70⁰c bed)
Something to keep in mind with steel nozzles, because of the poor thermal conductivity of steel compared to brass, assume an extra 15 degrees for steel. I've switched to a Phaetus tungsten nozzles, and while it's pricey, it's pretty good, and I can use it for all materials with confidence that I'm pushing my filament through a quality nozzle, without needing to push my printer hotter than I need to.
Even though you have jump cuts in your videos (I would argue they make for much more digestible content), your speaking ability, tone, flow, and inflection are great! keep it up!
I should probably do more cut's, but it adds a lot of time to editing.
Hey man good for you everything you've said in this video was absolutely and mouthful and I would have started a million times you make great material I hope you keep up and all The people following you really appreciate the material
There are some filaments with Polycarbonate mixture and PCTF (Teflon), providing some really tough properties for prints, including thermal and abrasion resistance.
Fillamentum AF80 .. i had a test sample and printed some small functional parts and it really made me buy a spool that very day ..
hey hoffman love the videos, they have taught me a bunch and inspired me to do some really cool projects. Thanks for taking the time. Also, have you ever tried adding a light epoxy coating to the finished print for added water resistance from warping? could be an easy and affordable addition to post processing to add some extra protection.
Just an FYI for people using enders and/or glass beds. I printed small parts with 35°C bed temp and did get slight lifting on the edge of small prints. That same print at 40°C had essentially no lifting and printed well. I assume the less thermal conductivity of the glass bed needs a bit more temp than with steel beds to get great adhesion. Stock glass bed with 2 layers glue stick 85-90C first layer, then 40°C rest of print and you should have no issue with warping. Plus if you have an enclosure that hot first layer will help get your enclosure above 100°F for better layer adhesion.
What do I need with my Ender 3 V2 to do this? Do I just need an all metal hot end with steel nozzle?
@@JB-ri6zp figure it out?
@@crazywormy5869 Don't be a douche, what do you think he is trying to do by asking the question. What's with all the gatekeeping in 3Dprinting just answer the damn questions and help people out when they ask.
@@MartinMcbride-xu2dn nigga I was asking if he figured it out I was trying to do some of the same
@@crazywormy5869 🤣DAMN my bad bro, read that wrong!!!!
Thanks for the info, will have to try some of these filaments when I print my next "part".
I recently bought a spool of SainSmart 25% CF Nylon and am printing on a modified Ender 3 Pro with the 32 bit board, flashed firmware, and all metal hotend with steel nozzle, and a glass bed with Aquanet hairspray. I've got a functional durable DD17.2 with great layer strength and flexibility, and though the front did warp a little, it doesn't affect performance.
I print this stuff at, drumroll please, 240-245c. Ran a temp tower that ranged from 270 down to 230 and the 240-245 range had the best bridging and overhang of them all. I didn't even need to flash the firmware for higher temps lmao... Your mileage may vary. I did half my speed though, 25mm/s, slow and steady wins the race.
For my enclosure I have one of those Creality tube frame reflective soft fabric enclosures and for enclosure heat I have an old lamp wire with an incandescent lightbulb hung from the top. 95% of incandescent lightbulb light is released as heat so it keeps the enclosure NICE and toasty, and it's janky enough to be a great conversation piece.
I'll have to experiment with the first layer hot and following layers cool because I went 85c bed the whole way, and that likely contributed to my warping.
To add to this, I've also got a Hoffman AR9 ejector in this CF Nylon, and the AR9 mag release, both of these had NO warping even though they're small pieces. Very satisfied with the results. Will be buying this stuff more.
This was the most discreet and to-the-point way to say “subscribe” without actually saying it. To the point that I hit the subscribe AND the notif bell just out of respect
Thanks Hoffman Tactical I follow you suggest for the bed temperature and i find a very very good result with nylon X.
Thank you so much for you work. Doing the work neccesarry!
As always great content!
It depends greatly on the humidity level where you live. As the parts cool, they’re taking on moisture from the humidity and some testing shows that getting some moisture in to it after printing can actually strengthen the part. Some people use steam to straighten the part testing the moisture level in until it matches the natural humidity is in your area. Other people heated up straightening it and throw it in the cool water. Others get it as straight as possible heat gun and then seal it so no moisture can get in. So it come down to everybody in their particular location will have to find what works appropriate for them. Nothings going to work for everybody.
If you’re doin things on the cheap, and you don’t wanna go out and get glass or garolite. Nylon sticks to cellulos pretty well, so after failing to get proper adhesion with a smooth print plate and glue stick, I stuck Un wrinkled News paper to the plate and put glue stick on that. It Immediately fixed the problem of adhesion and the benchy print came out perfect with perfectly smooth surfaces. Def, follow the hoffmeister here and star with 90c bed temp for first layer and bring it down to 35c for the rest of the print
Also as far as the nylon parts warping when smaller, I would try looking into using a garolite bed if you haven't already. They are really good for small nylon adhesion.
I actually started with a Garolite be when printing Nylon, but was not overly impressed! I think printing smaller parts very slow and with a raft is the trick.
@@HoffmanTactical Great, glad you've tried it. I guess slow and steady will always win the race haha
I have printed Nylon X on a Ender 3 V2 with glass hotbed ad glue stick on a bed temp of 70*C with fantastic results. My first few prints ever with the material, I was experiencing some elephants foot action on the bottom, but I haven't had any problems since. I might give 35*C a try.
Did you ever get around to trying a lower temp?
@@chrisfarley9213 I did. 40 seemed to be really good for me with the stock ender 3 v2 glass bed and glue stick.
@@covrtdesign5279 Right on, I have an ender 3 pro and glass bed as well. the front (magwell) seemed to start pulling up on me but I decided to let it run and see what happens since it was 10 hours into the print, my bed temp is 55 though so im wondering if thats why, fan speed at 20%
@@covrtdesign5279 Do you have any other mods to the ender3 v2?
Hey Bro I got an ender 3 v2 with an all metal hotend, but I can't seem to edit the firmware to let me go above 300c. Can you by chance send me the bin file?
Have you tried printing on a polycarbonate plate? I use it instead of glass especially for petg and PC and it works soooooo well. Plus it's flexible so you can pop parts off like a steel bed. Super cheap and readily available as well. I have not tried nylon on it yet though.
Alloy 910 is impressive stuff. I have used it in very demanding roles and it took a serious beating under a lot of heat. The layer adhesion is really good. One subject that I would like to see get more attention is creep deformation. I hear that the CF mitigates that somewhat in nylon, but I wonder how much?...
Creep deformation is an interesting subject, but I have yet to observe it in practice. Alloy 910 has incredibly layer adhesion! Awesome stuff.
@@HoffmanTactical I'm quite happy to hear that!
An easy way to dry out these types of filaments is to cut the lid off of a filament box, set your bed to 90C, put the filament on the bed, and then put the box over top of the filament. Leave it there for 12 to 24 hours. Afterwards you’re good to go.
Even when forging metal having your piece too hot and then it cooling down quickly always ends up in a warped blade,, so allowing a little by little to drop some temp it may settle into form slower and thus keeping intended or original shape shape without so called flash cooling which most the time the sudden change will allow for molecules to change in many ways that causes problems either warping, decrease in structural integrity and such. Kinda rambling, but the larger prints or pieces (giving different sides time to cool some before layering) and paired with a cooler bed allows for it to settle into semi final shape as printing is in process thus eliminates warping. Of course these are rambling and a unfounded hypothesis just using similar experiences with different mediums. Although have a lot of knowledge in graphic design, firearm mechanics, and applied engineering and would like to learn with some hands on experience. Furthermore there are a few different designs that may be more suitable due to their natural shape and the way they are constructed that may be more conducive to this type of manufacturing as well.
Can’t thank you enough for all the information!
Running my carbon nylon from eSun at 260 for the nozzle and 60 for the bed, paper tape as a base. No warping, excellent adhesion, no delamination. Just a bit of stringing as I forgot to adjust the retraction settings. Nothing a little post machining can't fix.
Please post more of your drying setup! Looks pretty cool!
Keep up the great work.
would be cool to post your entire slicer settings for cf nylon. as id assume you have fine tuned your settings. also id like to see a hoffman twist on the kf5 id bet you got ideas to make it better somehow..
Not to long ago I built my first pew pew now I’m addicted lol… always thought 3d printing was interesting so I looked into it and stumbled across this never even thought it was possible but now I’m interested
On an Ender 3, 260°c is the max temp using stock firmware, you have to compile Marlin to get a higher temp, or install Klipper firmware.
Nylon can be made tuffer/stronger by soaking the finished part in water not sure if temperature of the water all though my gut feeling is start a soak with warm water and then allow the water to cool down slowly to room temperature. Your anti-wrapping sound good I will try them.
I have no idea if it would work but I am planning on experimenting with stabilizing resin. You can take a piece of half rotten wood.....dry it out in the oven to 0% moisture content... submerge it in resin (I use SOS brand but Cactus Juice is similar) under vaccum....then cure it in a oven at 220°F and it becomes strong enough to make mallet heads out of.
I'm going to see if it will do the same for a ........ !!!!
Tougher, NOT stronger. It will increase impact resistance and WILL LOWER its tensile strength. Depending on the type of polyamide, it will weaken as much as 75% depending on how much water you let it absorb.
It increases its toughness by sacrificing strength for ductility. Just like heat treated steels are tempered to increase toughness at the cost of some hardness.
Thank you for the tips, I will try them. I am having trouble with some parts that have a large variation in cross sectional thickness near the print bed. They are warping like crazy using the Nylon X.
So young and already a legend. If you guys are looking into lower quality? I’ll save you some time. It’s the Hoffman.
The reason for the warping issue happening with high heatbed temps is as followed:
A hot heatbed prevents the material to solidify completely. The heatbeds heat dosn’t reach the upper layers so the upper ones cool down and contract and as the lower ones are still soft they don’t have the rigidity to withstand that tension the upper layers are putting on them. Hope that makes sense.
Probably has to do with the crystallization of nylon. Maybe a hotter bed keeps it amorphous longer
@@justinmoritz6543 keep a heated chamber.
Wow, so much useful information in one video ... thank you so much. You're awesome.
Because of this guy in the background, I can't hear what the tree is saying.
Loooooool
I can't get over this😂😂😂
Great content! Would love to see more analyzes, tests and comparisons of other materials like for example PEI+CF and PEEK+CF.
Not feasible for those without industrial grade printers.
@@Patrick-857 Maybe not yet, but sooner or later. Also, who cares? The science is still interesting..
@@Rwide88 Yep. Super plastics.
I am using the BuildTak nylon surface with no adhesive, and a bed temp of 55C. I have had no adhesion or warping problems using the 3DXTECH glass filled nylon.
Interesting.
Outstanding work as usual!
Glad to see that carbon fiber nylon isn't just a gimmick and indeed has some potential.
These videos make me want to set up a tester myself and try out different annealing processes to see if they help.
I've seen a few different approaches, from casting in plaster and baking at glass transition temperature to relieve stresses and improve layer adhesion, to boiling in water. The latter seems kinda yikes, but at the same time, I wonder what increasing the moisture content of nylon after printing would do to its properties?
Anyway, great job with this video.
You're inspiring others with your work on this.
PA12-CF is a great carbon fibre filament that doesn't seem to care about moisture. I've had CF filament that after a while, the printed parts become soft, but PA12-CF is much less affected by moisture.
I've used a lot of it. Lot of really nice properties, but creep is a real problem.
Don't know if this has been mentioned already, but we used Nitrogen to dry nylon before extrusion/molding in real world industrial settings. You have to be careful to not have the flow of gas too high as the tank of nitrogen is in a liquid state and the nitrogen gas comes out cold. That can chill the nylon and cause condensation from the surrounding air which is obviously bad and opposite of what you want. But when done correctly it's like Tig or Mig welding and there will be no moisture to cause the melted nylon to foam or spatter. You just want enough flow from the tank to displace the surrounding air and make sure you have adequate ventilation or you can displace the oxygen you need to breathe. Air is already mostly nitrogen so that's only a problem in a confined closed space. Just have good ventilation.
Forgot to say I'd aim a stream at the extruder/bed as added insurance you are getting a good oxygen free print.
Great video!
Use a raft on your smaller parts.. ive ran into this in the past.. small nylonx parts warp.. the only thing that worked for me was adding a raft. But GREAT vid man!!
Great suggestion. A raft is just what I used to get the small test samples to print, they still warped, but the print was able to complete and the samples where ready to be broken.
Outstanding work flawless great 👍👍 thank you so much 😁😁🔥🔥🙌🙌👏👏
thx for the tips, gonna apply these to some gardening tools lol
A dot of Elmers white diluted in water and spread across a glass bed (or any other) will make the nylon bond to it very well (maybe too well) the pva/Elmer's white is water soluble so can usually soak a glass bed in water to dissolve it and get it to release
Hairspray is also a good option. Really anything with PVA in it should work.
It looks so great.
Also let me ADD that I love your honesty.
I know a liar when I see one
This dude is wearing the dam bootcamp sweater in black for real. Keep inovating man!
funny i just happened on this guy looking for info on cf and found tactical in the name ...2 of my favorite things.
Have you tried printing a mold for casting ? The Freedom-15 mold kit could probably be improved with the strength of the new designs particularly where the buffer tube attaches
regarding the bed temperature tip: i tried PA12-CF15 from Fiberlogy with 270°C Nozzle and 100°C Bed Temperature (Printer fully enclosed, Chamber gets to around 60°C), used some PVA Gluestick on a Textured PEI bed, and it came out wonderfully... Layerlines are almost invisible, layer adhesion is strong enogh for my needs. All of this at printing speeds at around 200mm/s, 80mm/s for the first layer. Dried the spool at 70°C for 12 Hours prior to printing, and printed right off that dryer while it was still running. For smaller parts i activate part cooling at around 30%.
PA12 prints really well! These tips are really more for PA6. But creep with PA12 is a big issue.
Much respect to you for all you contribute, and I guess your experience is your own, but I find it frankly absurd to say that PLA+ is the most impact resistant material. It seems like this specific community cannot get off PLA for some reason, despite the fact that it really isn’t that hard to print better stuff.
It may seem strange because it's so cheap, but PLA+ is really good stuff! It's thermal resistance is it's only downside, which can be a big problem. Hence the Nylon. But PLA+ still remains a incredible plastic, which is why it's so popular. Also it's very low cost. Impact resistance is something that is hard to quantify. In my testing PLA+ has given the best results, but not all the time. Some PLA+ is better then others.
@@HoffmanTacticalI'm curious on your thoughts between Nylon and PC? I just ordered some Polymax PC to play with, but i hear it is very finicky and would push the limits of my prusa, I know you have used PC in the past, is it worth the trouble?
@@Liccarus I've only used a couple PC blends. I think the CF Nylon is better. But it's a lot more expensive. The Polymax PC may be a good option, I just have not tried it yet.
Strictly from a design and prototyping perspective I think the saying "measure twice, cut once" sums it up
I printed on a 100c bed throughout my 19.2 frame with PAHT-CF filament on my BBL P1S.
you get around a lot of the warping of nylon going to glass or CF filled, but you can fix that and your layer adhesion problems by getting/making an enclosure and keeping it 80-120f for your print.
if you did that, you should be able to dial this process in for cf nylon and dump any remaining arguments for pla+
PLA+ will still have a very convincing argument though ;) 25% the cost and any printer can run it. And a lot of people, including myself, will never expose it to the high temps that may damage it. So it still remains an awesome plastic.
@@HoffmanTactical true, youre never going to make nylon particularly cheap or easy to use.
but for a durable product that you need a limited quantity of, those become less important.
what I really want to see people iterate on, is integral stock/buffer. this should be possible with a 400mm bed (500 would be better), and should trade some of the weak points for ones that are easier to solve.
@@CraneArmy That's the way I look at it, but some are on a tighter budget then myself. As to an integral stock / buffer. I've not worked on such a design for two reasons. Printers that big enough are not common. And I don't think it would help make it stronger. If no metal reinforcement was used, maybe, but with the buffer band I don't think it would add any strength. The lower always breaks forward of the buffer tower. So no amount of plastic behind that would help.
@@HoffmanTactical they are available. Someone doing the research can find one with 400mm in at least z for ~500 from most of the reputable brands. The thing that I'm less sure about is a proper heated bed the right size, I think if it was going to get complicated, it would be here.
I havent watched all of your videos so I dont know the failure youre getting, but I'm assuming the breaks youre seeing are common to other plastic parts like this and are forward of the buffer tower but behind the grip.
adding an integral stock that attaches behind the grip gives you two things, and the smaller thing, is you can attach the stock behind the grip anywhere you want increasing the width of plastic at that point making it more rigid while resisting the moment forces on the tower, I think this is what you were thinking about and you should be able to make it marginally better, although you shouldnt need the long part for this, you could just do it (maybe you have? difficult to tell).
the bigger thing, is you can direct force that normally is directed through the buffer tower, around it into the part directly aft of the grip.
both of these things together should compound for a part a few multiples stronger.
This might be a dumb question but what about printing in PLA+ and then coating the whole receiver in a layer or 2 of Epoxy or Super Glue for added heat resistance ?
I've been wondering about such things myself. It might be a dumb idea but I've been pondering cylindrical voids (areas as if you ran a drill through the print aligned with where you need strength) into the piece, parallel channels in the piece like lightening cuts, other hollows in the item that can be filled with epoxy or maybe even JB weld. Basically reinforcing 'rods' like rebar in concrete.
Again, might be incredibly stupid for some reason I'm not bright enough/experienced enough to notice, but I think it's worth experimenting with.
Great vid. Very informative. This is what youtube is for
Great video as always. How do you keep the support material from gunking up in the small, tighter areas where they may be needed... I'm trying to print a "part" but the supports either gunk up, or are completely inseparable from the main body of the part. Thanks.
I try to design all the parts to keep support out of small areas. Really the only way to do it other then soluble supports.
I’ve gotten good results with bluetape, gluestick and 110 degree bed with regular nylon. Litteraly one of the most beautiful and warp free prints I’ve made
I shall take 3D printing advice from Snoop Dogg.
@@pumpkinpieplustacos try it pp man you wont regret it
Really well spoken.
great, thanks for sharing 👍
I love how he thinks everyone it just printing lowers 😂😂😂, great vid!!! 👍👍👍
had nothing but huge success with Nylon X, and Priline Carbon fiber polycarbonate for the last 4 years. CFPC is def a finicky one but really good as long as you get your settings honed in
one thing you did not mention was fan usage. Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate needs fan on even on first layer. On my Prusa, I have it permanently turned on for 60% on first layer then down to 50% the rest of the layers. Some reason, Prusa has fan turned off on anything carbon fiber by default. but Ive done countless tests with benchie, and the XYZ cubes with different fan speeds with 260C nozzle, and 90c bed. If fan is off or less than 50%, you will see layer separation with angles and overhangs. 13:00 in your video you were talking about warping, try turning bed temps up and turning fan on at higher speed.
I never had print issues with the CF-PC from Priline, I was just not impressed with the physical properties, It's really a ABS blend. I definitely need to revisit NylonX.
I have the same 3d printer. I need to get on this guy's level.
Good job.
Coat that bed with pva glue.
I Have been using eSUN cf Nylon.
Ender 3 heavily upgraded.
Part fan off, 25% for any overhangs.
285c nozzle
60c bed
To avoid curling.
Mix up pva with some water 10-1, heat bed to 70c then use a wet cloth and dip it in the pva water mix and apply a coat to the build plate ( i use the creality buildtac type plate). The heat in the bed will flash off the water and leave a coating of pva glue. Then pre heat as normal and start your print.
As for filament drying I keep the hydroscopic filaments in a zip lock with dessicant and a hydrometer. Place next to a radiator to keep them dry no oven needed.
I put foam board around my ender 5 plus, ever since then I've never had warping with PLA or PETG, ymmv since you're using a specialized filament.
Thoughts on Impossible Object's fabric layering based method where it gets heat treated all at once instead of one layer at a time? It's probably more towards industrial scale parts making but still very interesting even so for more stable parts where they can be legally mass produced.
I just printed with push plastic pla + high heat. Apparently same as pla + but higher heat tolerance. Wondering if you seen it or tried it. I greatly appreciate your work and testing you do for us. Keep up the awesomeness.
I've used the 3D870 PLA from Push Plastic a lot. It tends to have poor layer adhesion, which is why I don't use it for lowers anymore.
DEATH TO THE PLA
I get problems with solid models warping, more than something hollow like a receiver. I find I can fix this by using a smaller infill percentage. If I'm in a situation where I need a really tough part I can compensate a bit by pausing and taking breaks or by increasing print speed.
While not really applicable for something like a firearm, I find people new to printing choose a much higher infill percentage then is really warranted. Try standing on a failed print or hit it with a hammer. You might be surprised.
Would highly recommend the Olsson Ruby nozzle for this matr'l. will improve surface finish and will last 10X as long as hardened steel.
I was about to get a ruby nozzle, but after some reading I decided that a tungsten carbide nozzle would be better choice. Better thermal transfer and almost as hard. We'll see how it works!
@@HoffmanTactical Im sure the TC nozzle will work just fine. I've used the ruby nozzle quite a bit and while it is a great nozzle, if the ruby hits the bed during a travel movement it has a good chance of cracking or chipping, ruining your $100+ nozzle... no fun for wallet....
@@HoffmanTactical Also, Great video btw. After printing these materials and having some experience i still learned some new things.
When printing small parts with CF, maybe slowly reduce bed temperature can help from deformation
Qidi make great cf nylon but its over 200 a kg in Canada except for last weekend. All the expensive filaments were on sale on Amazon for valentines for some reason.
I use a tent with glue stick for bed slingers. But i got a qidi x-plus 3 and gave away my old printers.
Hey love the content. I have been recently trying to print with carbon fiber nylon . Is there any recommended brands you could point out to me for frames and lowers
Hi I’m new to 3D printing and I was wondering if you can show/talk about your setup .. I don’t know where I can set up my printer to keep the room temp that hot.. thanks
So grab a sponge and squeeze it at the top and you will see the bottom of the sponge curve up or warp. Higher bed temps cause this because the part needs to cool as even as possible so it shrinks as even as possible and maintains bed adhesion.
If you don't have an enclosure, the best way and easiest way to get around warping is to use a raft it definitely helps the warping the raft will warping before ur peice does a littl3 safe guard
hell ya Hoffy love it thanks big dog
Any recommendations on a printer that will perform well with these requirements and pda as well ?
you can increase the minimum time between layers it will significantly increase youre print time but it might help decrease warping
On little parts this is a great trick!
@@HoffmanTactical i just wanna say man i think its real cool how you interact with your viewers
You should print one in polycast filament and then use investment casting to turn it into aluminum or brass or whatever other metal you can melt
Interesting video as I've got a new roll of CF PLA in front of me. Currently waiting on my steel nozzle. Have you thought of remixing the Hoffman Tactical AR lower for 9mm Glock mags?
I'm working on the AR9 version now ;) As to CF PLA. I think a CF PLA+ would be interesting, but a CF plain PLA may not be much better then without the CF. I've not tried it though.
I printed certain automotive components with PLA and the heat is a huge problem. I dont know if PETG might be a better option to use. Most parts are mechanical parts inside door panels and dashboards etc. The original parts are ABS or a white type of plastic that really burns your nose and eyes if it is burned by flame (did it for test purposes). Now there nylon parts might do the job, but if PETG is going to do the trick, i wont use nylon, just because of the price tag and hassle involved.
Have a look at the nozzleX, an amazing nozzle!
Awesome vid, thanks for the advice. I now can print my carbon fiber. I’m also trying allow 910 high heat and it warps no matter what I do. I need to print gears for rc and don’t think carbon fiber is the way to go. What brand nylon would you recommend. Thanks
I have had the some issue with Alloy 910. The Overture Easy Nylon is much easier to print, however it's probably not as strong.
New to watching your channel, great information and your detail is excellent. I have purchased a A2 steel nozzle and cfpc poly carbonate carbon fiber. I have not tried it yet since my WIFE took over my printer recently. 🤬. Anyone have direct experience with this stuff. If so what's your thoughts and settings you've played with. Again thanks for your channel.
I've used the CF PC from Push Plastic. I think it will work, but I found that CF Nylon has better layer adhesion and impact resistance and is just as easy to print. So that's what I use now.
Me be like after 1 minute: subscribe immediately to this channel!
I know this is a weird question, but where did you get that sweater? I absolutely love it.