Very many thanks for producing this video. Just done the job in situ and your video was so helpful. As well as a drill to trash the rubber I used a jig saw with a long blade which was pretty effective. Thought of burning it but tried to avoid the torch under the engine. Second thing was cutting the metal ring out, using your method I used a new hack saw blade and it only took a dozen strokes to get through and I cut two places about 10mm apart. I then punched the metal in between and it peeled back so that I could get the punch onto it easily and it ripped out so that the rest of the ring came away fine.
Just replaced one on a berlingo 1.6 hdi van 2017. Unless you remove the sump and exhaust, there is no way you can get a hack saw in there, believe me, I tried. I used a dremel and cut a vee in the outer race, difficult and time consuming, but it worked. Informative video non the less. Thank you. Also, I ordered the Bush and it came in one piece, not 2 halves. The instructions say to press it on using washing up liquid. I was very dubious but it did go in with the help of a large adjustable wrench.
Used this guide today, very helpful! As you mention trying to find room to swing properly under the car, which I was, turned out to be a right pain. Worth it in the end as the cars driving far better.
Thanks for making me aware of the polybush by powerflex, these are so easy to fit once the old stock one has been removed, However you and many others on youtube say that it takes a lot of effort and time to remove the old bush, I removed mine in seconds using a sds drill and a pointy stake attachment bit, ( no effort required) and no damage to the mount holder either
Yes, they are epic. As are the air tool equivalent. However, I try and do guides with the average home/diy mechanic and 99/100 won't have stuff like that. You are right though....they make bush removal a breeze 👍 🐷💪 PS please subscribe 😬
Well Halfords ( robbing thieves ) wanted to charge me the best part of £400 to fit a new engine bracket with a new metallastic bush in ( £10 on-line ) I watched piggy swap one for a powerflex bush and did mine!! So easy, half an hour!! Cheers!!
The 407 1.6hdi is the exact same setup as this. I just beat the old mount out with screwdrivers and leverage, until a section of the mount bent inwards, then it slid out. I tried to replace it with the same type, the €8 one, while still on the car (big mistake). I got it halfway in and it wouldn't go anymore, and it's fairly banged up now from beating it with a hammer! Can't even beat it out from the other side because there's no room! Tried the hacksaw job, like here, with a mini hacksaw, but after 10-15 minutes the bloody blade had worn smooth! I've got a powerflex (306 model, same) waiting to go in and all. I've been driving around for a week or so with the mount half in, using a longer bolt, and nuts on the inside for spacing. I had to bend the bracket slightly to accommodate the half inserted mount; So the engine is pulled back slightly and so I get a grinding (from the drive shaft I assume) if I reverse with high revs. (been avoiding reversing situations whenever possible!) The bracket is only slightly bent, maybe 5-7 degrees but it makes a difference. It's also harder to remove the air filter box because the engine is pulled back a bit. Wish I had just splashed out and bought the Powerflex first time round..
Joe O Sullivan oh dear 🤦🏻♂️ sounds like you've had a mare! It is often easier to do it the hard way... IE remove the mount ... If you are using an OEM mount. Powerflex for the win!
Unless the pulling tools are perfectly machined for the actual mount... No. As there is very limited flat surface to pull/push on. It's a tricky job ... Hence the video!
@@PiggyPower thanks. I’m going to attempt your method on my Citroen ZX at the weekend, it really needs done and I’ve just recently changed the gearbox oil so don’t fancy that mess again.
I fitted a new front right engine mount the other day, but when I drove the van, it felt much more solid, but was vibrating like hell! Could it be that the new right hand mount showed up an issue with another mount? And the old one, being slack, was hiding it more?
I am going to do this I tried finding a easier option instead of having to remove said drive shaft and faffing about! Thanks for your video helped loads (can't wait to get it done) mines a Peugeot 206 SW 1.4 turbo diesel
I've just bought a Peugeot 206 2 litre diesel HDi, 2001 (distressed purchase, but only 57k miles, yay!), and I've find your videos fantastic for home servicing...so thank you!! I've been driving a petrol Merc E320 for the last 10 years, so driving a smaller, French, diesel car recently has been a bit of a change...... Altogether though, I'm well pleased with the 206, as she's a lovely, if slightly old-fashioned, diesel chugger!! I do have a question though.......and bear in mind I've only a smooth V6 petrol engine to compare this against....but, my 206 'shudders' during start-up, at low rev pull-aways, and again at engine turn off? To me, I find it quite pronounced but, then again, I've not owned a diesel before...... I'm not sure if this is a problem, or just a relatively large diesel engine in a small car?
Simon Rixon Hi Simon...welcome to the fun and cheap way to get about! The shudder could be down to the lower engine mount, commonly fails. The other two do wear also...but the one featured in this video is most common. Easy to diagnose if you jack up the car and have someone rock the engine while you check movement in the rubber bushings 🐷👍
Id highly recommend investing in an air chisel James, this job will then take you 30 seconds and zero stress :) Also an extremely useful tool for so many jobs, esp anything involving shafts / seized drive parts!
Darren Lobb totally agree... but for guides like this I have to assume that 90% of car enthusiasts have just basic tools, so I tend to stick to the basic tools rather than break out anything someone else is attempting this is unlikely to have.
@@PiggyPower I binged that last week must have missed that bit, let's hope there is no rust, haven't found and bad stuff yet so fingers crossed, thanks for the reply,
Yes, so long as you can get access underneath and raise the o/s wheel as you may need to remove the shaft. . . I've done it on a gravel drive so any ramp, 2 or 4 post, is luxury to me 😂 🐷💪👍
@@PiggyPower only joking but thanks I got a peugeot expert van.I ordered up a mount from peugeot then watched this video and ordered this mount thanks for saving me hours of work man.
I defer you to the date this video came out... 2016! I can find them for £40 online now + postage, but yeah, naturally they will be more expensive 8 yrs on.
Hi Piggy. Is this the same process for the gearbox mount on a 207cc GT (2008)? I get confused when people say "rear engine mount" or "gearbox mount". Are they the same thing?
Not the same thing. Notice this is bolted to the engine? ...the gearbox mount is bolted to...the gearbox 😉 often the gearbox mounts come prepared ready to bolt in. 👍🐷💪
@@PiggyPower AaaaaAAAAaaaahhh! I know next to nothing about these transverse engines. So I take it the GEARBOX 😂 mount is under the battery?? 🤔🤔 I've googled it but found nothing. Not even a diagram for us mere peasants.
Yes, right under the battery 👍 even on rwd vehicles... A gearbox mount is usually on the gearbox 😉 I say usually as vehicles are 99% logical... Then the 1% is there to frustrate and baffle us all
Luke Whinham thanks! So glad to hear it helped someone 😀👍 although it's concerning I remind you of Ed China as my wife finds him really annoying! 😂 Thanks for watching and commenting! 🐖
I had same 206 in Halfords for a diagnostic check, it was the CRANK sensor, got one for 12.50, 5mins to fit, so why did Halfords want to charge me £70?
There is an alternative route which is much easier if you have to work from under the car. Cut out the centre of the old bush with a Stanley knife and/or hacksaw. Make sure to clean it back to almost bare metal for at least a section. (About half an hour). Then use a Dremel type mini multi tool with a cutting disc on to cut an angled groove into the outer steel sleeve from both sides meeting in the middle in a "V" and not quite going all the way through. (Ten minutes working carefully) It took about 2mm of a single mini disc to get this done. I started on the right side, high up on the front and cut down and in to the middle, then I did the same from the left side. All it then needs is a tap with a hammer and drift to lift an edge, it doesn't take much if you have ground close to going through the steel sleeve. If you have it deep enough all the way along the sleeve should split along the groove very easily. Mine actually broke with a ping and popped inwards with the pressure of the interference fit. Easiest one I've ever done and I only had a tiny sp[ot on the rim where I punched the edge up to make good. That cheap mini tool paid for itself in ten minutes!
If you get the one that fits...yes. just like other parts, they are different for different cars/engines. If there isn't one listed, measure yours and compare to the stated dimensions 👍
Why wait for it to fail? The best maintenance is preventative. If the lower mount is dying, it will be prematurely wearing the other two mounts plus wiring and hoses etc
@@PiggyPower errrr the weather lol. It can go on the list with upgrading of the alternator and maybe the aux belt tensioner that clicks, and the (just started) drippy heater matrix. I don't get on well with cold temperatures and only have a drive to work on. But I'm not putting another set of synchro springs in the gearbox for it to eat them again, just too big a job getting that heavy thing in and out. (I have often wondered if the box could be opened and stripped on the engine, I know 5th can, but then wonder if the shell can be pulled then the gear assemblies leaving the bell housing behind, would be a right jigsaw....)
@@lezbriddon oh dear, I do most of my work on a drive/outside to be honest. I know how it is. As regards the box, I usually just put a replacement second hand box in, if something (like low or wrong oil) has worn syncros down, then the bearings etc will have suffered. Just my 2p there.
@@PiggyPower yeah boxers/relays are harder to find parts for and as 5th was a nightmare on these everyone else bought the spare donors up before I got this 5 years ago. It's a 2005 bottom end is basically xud so pretty standard on box fitment but it's the huge diff for the torque and the extra large diameter driveshafts that stops me dropping a car box in. I don't need all the heavy duty running gear as it's not loaded to 3t anymore it's just a gentle driven camper with a sofa bed.
This is close to impossible with the engine still in the car, and I think I've knackered it, as because there's a hose in the way, you can't really keep the blade straight, especially when you're trying to saw towards yourself upside down, I've cut too far, and gone into the steel, and even though the steel has been cut through, you can't get a good hit on it with the hammer due to its position, I'm completely stuck now
It's very hard on the car. Jack up the car that end as high as it can go. Pull the shaft and unbolt the unit from the car. Hopefully you won't lose too much gearoil if you've jacked it up high enough. The casing is actually cast aluminium so do be careful with cutting into it too much
@@PiggyPower Managed to get the bush out, by jacking the car up from the other side and hitting it the other way, now like I said I had sawed a little into the housing, I've sanded away the rough edges, but there is still a few mm cut into the housing, will it be OK to install the new poly Bush with it like that?
@@PiggyPower I'm not 100% I've got the correct bush now lol, mine is different to the one you have on this video, mine didn't come with washers or the cut outs for the fork, and the inside parts of the bush are too small for the housing, and only the lips of the 2 parts of the bush make contact with the housing (if that makes sense) Mine is a 2.0 hdi if that makes any difference, thanks
What I do not understand is because the metal part of the bush is a pain to remove, why not just make the rubber insert for it that will simply fit into the existing metal part after removing the worn perished bits. The Powerflex one is a good idea but how about making a version that will be slightly smaller in DIA so it can be fitted with ease. Or does the Powerflex have enough flext to fit into the existing metal ring? Will it have enough give? Getting a hacksaw into the confined space under the car is NOT an easy one, but I shall check it out to see if I have enough space to cut the metal ring, just in case. Tx for the video, good one, but would have liked a few more options to resolve another french problem. Not much common sense went into the designing of this part and many others.
Johannes Meijer common sense regarding removal of parts is not a matter of design usually... This bush often will last the lifetime of a vehicle. You will still need to cut all the rubber out of the metal ring... Which would take time and be very awkward. The powerflex won't fit inside it either...it flexes but is surprisingly tight fitting, as it should be. Removal of this bracket can be simpler if your ball joint and drive shaft aren't seized!
Hi buddy will this stop my engine from shaking side to side as I have changed gearbox mount and it's still shaking like a bitch 😅 or will a drive shift cause the engine to swing side to side in the wind
No way i would do this those marks you found are from the chisel , i appreciate what you are trying to show here however its best to take it to an engineering shop or to someone who has a press pay them $20 of whatever pound equivalent and get them to press it out , if they press it out you can fit the powerflex bush yourself
Yup, but as you see, you can file them smooth. It's quite likely you find marks from previous swaps too. Could use a cheap press, pay someone to do it etc... But if you are watching a UA-cam video to help... Someone is likely trying to 1) do it themselves 2) save money. Filed smooth and those marks won't effect a bush longevity like this
As explained in the video, not everyone has a press... And to remove this on the vehicle means removing the driveshaft, which entails a lot of work, gearbox fluid etc. Im not showing the fastest way or best way for ME in my guides... I'm thinking of my viewers 👌 🐷💪
Yes, as mentioned in the video, you can of course do that. However, when the engine/bracket is in the car, the o/s driveshaft runs through the bracket... Which means, dropping the o/s ball joint, draining the gearbox oil, removing the driveshaft (often seized in) and then taking the bracket off. . . Access is tricky on the vehicle, but if you had a air chisel or similar, it's pretty quick and even without saves a lot of hassle if you don't want to do all that and don't have a press.
Very many thanks for producing this video. Just done the job in situ and your video was so helpful. As well as a drill to trash the rubber I used a jig saw with a long blade which was pretty effective. Thought of burning it but tried to avoid the torch under the engine.
Second thing was cutting the metal ring out, using your method I used a new hack saw blade and it only took a dozen strokes to get through and I cut two places about 10mm apart. I then punched the metal in between and it peeled back so that I could get the punch onto it easily and it ripped out so that the rest of the ring came away fine.
Yeah nice! Well done!! 🐷💪
Just replaced one on a berlingo 1.6 hdi van 2017.
Unless you remove the sump and exhaust, there is no way you can get a hack saw in there, believe me, I tried.
I used a dremel and cut a vee in the outer race, difficult and time consuming, but it worked.
Informative video non the less. Thank you.
Also, I ordered the Bush and it came in one piece, not 2 halves. The instructions say to press it on using washing up liquid. I was very dubious but it did go in with the help of a large adjustable wrench.
Different vehicles/engines/chassis will need different techniques and bush designs naturally.
Glad you managed it though 😄👍🐖
Used this guide today, very helpful! As you mention trying to find room to swing properly under the car, which I was, turned out to be a right pain. Worth it in the end as the cars driving far better.
Tom Harrison glad it helped, even if a little. Well done for getting it done yourself 👍🐷
Thanks for making me aware of the polybush by powerflex, these are so easy to fit once the old stock one has been removed,
However you and many others on youtube say that it takes a lot of effort and time to remove the old bush, I removed mine in seconds using a sds drill and a pointy stake attachment bit, ( no effort required) and no damage to the mount holder either
Yes, they are epic. As are the air tool equivalent.
However, I try and do guides with the average home/diy mechanic and 99/100 won't have stuff like that.
You are right though....they make bush removal a breeze 👍
🐷💪
PS please subscribe 😬
@@PiggyPower
Fair play and thankyou
@@benking9503 Do you mean you vibrate the old one out on hammer? If so, isn't that a bit hard and iffy on the alloy casing?
Well Halfords ( robbing thieves ) wanted to charge me the best part of £400 to fit a new engine bracket with a new metallastic bush in ( £10 on-line ) I watched piggy swap one for a powerflex bush and did mine!! So easy, half an hour!! Cheers!!
Yes!!!! Another Halfraudulent expense avoided!! 👌🐷
Please consider subscribing and sharing the channel with mates👍
The 407 1.6hdi is the exact same setup as this. I just beat the old mount out with screwdrivers and leverage, until a section of the mount bent inwards, then it slid out. I tried to replace it with the same type, the €8 one, while still on the car (big mistake). I got it halfway in and it wouldn't go anymore, and it's fairly banged up now from beating it with a hammer! Can't even beat it out from the other side because there's no room! Tried the hacksaw job, like here, with a mini hacksaw, but after 10-15 minutes the bloody blade had worn smooth! I've got a powerflex (306 model, same) waiting to go in and all.
I've been driving around for a week or so with the mount half in, using a longer bolt, and nuts on the inside for spacing. I had to bend the bracket slightly to accommodate the half inserted mount; So the engine is pulled back slightly and so I get a grinding (from the drive shaft I assume) if I reverse with high revs. (been avoiding reversing situations whenever possible!)
The bracket is only slightly bent, maybe 5-7 degrees but it makes a difference. It's also harder to remove the air filter box because the engine is pulled back a bit.
Wish I had just splashed out and bought the Powerflex first time round..
Joe O Sullivan oh dear 🤦🏻♂️ sounds like you've had a mare! It is often easier to do it the hard way... IE remove the mount ... If you are using an OEM mount. Powerflex for the win!
Hi, thank for this great video. Does that bush fit the 406 also? Mount looks the same.
I believe it might be different... Likely there is one that fits so just order one for a 406 👍🐖
@@PiggyPower i called powerflex and they said petrol versions of 406 fits same as 306. Not diesel versions 🙏
Great vid. Would a pulling tool be able to pull out the mount? And I’ve bought the £20 replacement mount, how difficult will it be to get in???
Unless the pulling tools are perfectly machined for the actual mount... No. As there is very limited flat surface to pull/push on. It's a tricky job ... Hence the video!
@@PiggyPower thanks. I’m going to attempt your method on my Citroen ZX at the weekend, it really needs done and I’ve just recently changed the gearbox oil so don’t fancy that mess again.
Ahh man, shame about the timing there. Well done for keeping things maintained, good man 👍🐷
Cool! I want to know, does the engine vibrate when starting?
Yes, like every engine.
Because I put a support... but at idle the engine vibrates very strongly, the whole car vibrates 😢
@@floriantrif4528 has the engine got a misfire? Or you've fitted the extreme version or a knock of product which are very hard
Great video. Would you have Powerflex part number please?
I don't sorry, likely changed too as they have updated the item since then. Just Google 306 lower engine mount powerflex, 1000s results 👍😎🐷
Got it, PFF50-306
I fitted a new front right engine mount the other day, but when I drove the van, it felt much more solid, but was vibrating like hell! Could it be that the new right hand mount showed up an issue with another mount? And the old one, being slack, was hiding it more?
Wouldn't know without checking the lower mount.
I am going to do this I tried finding a easier option instead of having to remove said drive shaft and faffing about! Thanks for your video helped loads (can't wait to get it done) mines a Peugeot 206 SW 1.4 turbo diesel
Good! Glad you going to give it a go yourself! Let us know how you get on 😀
...don't forget to be a subscriber! 😁🐷💪
Been struggling to get answers for this problem, and all so different ! But this is so easy !!! Thanks piggy Brill cannot wait to fix
john brinkard no worries! Glad to have helped! Please share the channel and like it if you feel its worthy 🐷👍😀
Hi great video is it possible to remove Bush only ..my Car is an estate peugeot 307 hdi 2005..
Same process yes, it is hard to do though so if possible, it's always easier off the car
The best video.. followed all steps.. worked 👍👍👍
Awesome! Pleased an old video is still helping peeps 👍🐷🧡
Mate THANKYOU SO MUCH THIS HELPED ME A LOT
No worries 👌🐷
I've just bought a Peugeot 206 2 litre diesel HDi, 2001 (distressed purchase, but only 57k miles, yay!), and I've find your videos fantastic for home servicing...so thank you!! I've been driving a petrol Merc E320 for the last 10 years, so driving a smaller, French, diesel car recently has been a bit of a change...... Altogether though, I'm well pleased with the 206, as she's a lovely, if slightly old-fashioned, diesel chugger!! I do have a question though.......and bear in mind I've only a smooth V6 petrol engine to compare this against....but, my 206 'shudders' during start-up, at low rev pull-aways, and again at engine turn off? To me, I find it quite pronounced but, then again, I've not owned a diesel before...... I'm not sure if this is a problem, or just a relatively large diesel engine in a small car?
Simon Rixon Hi Simon...welcome to the fun and cheap way to get about! The shudder could be down to the lower engine mount, commonly fails. The other two do wear also...but the one featured in this video is most common. Easy to diagnose if you jack up the car and have someone rock the engine while you check movement in the rubber bushings 🐷👍
Id highly recommend investing in an air chisel James, this job will then take you 30 seconds and zero stress :) Also an extremely useful tool for so many jobs, esp anything involving shafts / seized drive parts!
Darren Lobb totally agree... but for guides like this I have to assume that 90% of car enthusiasts have just basic tools, so I tend to stick to the basic tools rather than break out anything someone else is attempting this is unlikely to have.
Any chance you could do a how to on the upper right one for a 306, Please, Have to do mine soon and already know it's going to be a nightmare
Upper right looking at the engine?
@@PiggyPower it would be left wouldn't it 😁 now you see why I need help 😂
Big sharp chisel. That's the most important part you need!! ...also be ready with steel and a welder as the base on the car often rusts and cracks
If you take a look at the lemon series... Early on I replace that mount and repair the piece underneath
@@PiggyPower I binged that last week must have missed that bit, let's hope there is no rust, haven't found and bad stuff yet so fingers crossed, thanks for the reply,
I'm not to sure I only got a 4 post ramp can I still do it?
Yes, so long as you can get access underneath and raise the o/s wheel as you may need to remove the shaft. . . I've done it on a gravel drive so any ramp, 2 or 4 post, is luxury to me 😂
🐷💪👍
@@PiggyPower only joking but thanks I got a peugeot expert van.I ordered up a mount from peugeot then watched this video and ordered this mount thanks for saving me hours of work man.
No worries 🐷💪👍🏎️
Bro you got a video for everything, awesome
Not quite! But always up for suggestions! 👌🐷
Awesome video I am going to be doing the bottom mount on my 308 diesel
Have much fun! Stay safe! 😁🐷💪
Is it possible to do it under the car? I have a Peugeot 206 GTI 2001
Yup, as per explained in the video 👌
you mentioned the fact you cand pick these bushes up for thirty quid, can you tell me where as the lowest price i can find is sixty. cheers !
I defer you to the date this video came out... 2016! I can find them for £40 online now + postage, but yeah, naturally they will be more expensive 8 yrs on.
@@PiggyPower didnt realise the video was that old. got an original bush will stick with that thanks anyway.
Hi Piggy. Is this the same process for the gearbox mount on a 207cc GT (2008)? I get confused when people say "rear engine mount" or "gearbox mount". Are they the same thing?
Not the same thing. Notice this is bolted to the engine? ...the gearbox mount is bolted to...the gearbox 😉 often the gearbox mounts come prepared ready to bolt in. 👍🐷💪
@@PiggyPower AaaaaAAAAaaaahhh! I know next to nothing about these transverse engines. So I take it the GEARBOX 😂 mount is under the battery?? 🤔🤔 I've googled it but found nothing. Not even a diagram for us mere peasants.
Yes, right under the battery 👍 even on rwd vehicles... A gearbox mount is usually on the gearbox 😉 I say usually as vehicles are 99% logical... Then the 1% is there to frustrate and baffle us all
@@PiggyPower Thanks for your patience which is much appreciated
No trouble at all ☺️ 👍🐷💪
Reminded me of watching Ed China from wheeler dealers , good job, made my life easier
Luke Whinham thanks! So glad to hear it helped someone 😀👍 although it's concerning I remind you of Ed China as my wife finds him really annoying! 😂 Thanks for watching and commenting! 🐖
Hi ,what do you think abot fitting a yellow one on a diesel engine?
Thx
See the video for my opinion!
I had same 206 in Halfords for a diagnostic check, it was the CRANK sensor, got one for 12.50, 5mins to fit, so why did Halfords want to charge me £70?
Because Halfrauds
So if you dont use the big washers ....you will have less vibration...right?
You need to use the washers that come with the bush or your bush will last only a journey or two!
There is an alternative route which is much easier if you have to work from under the car. Cut out the centre of the old bush with a Stanley knife and/or hacksaw. Make sure to clean it back to almost bare metal for at least a section. (About half an hour). Then use a Dremel type mini multi tool with a cutting disc on to cut an angled groove into the outer steel sleeve from both sides meeting in the middle in a "V" and not quite going all the way through. (Ten minutes working carefully) It took about 2mm of a single mini disc to get this done. I started on the right side, high up on the front and cut down and in to the middle, then I did the same from the left side. All it then needs is a tap with a hammer and drift to lift an edge, it doesn't take much if you have ground close to going through the steel sleeve. If you have it deep enough all the way along the sleeve should split along the groove very easily. Mine actually broke with a ping and popped inwards with the pressure of the interference fit. Easiest one I've ever done and I only had a tiny sp[ot on the rim where I punched the edge up to make good. That cheap mini tool paid for itself in ten minutes!
Nice. Same process basically. 👍
Thanks for the video. I will get one for my Citroen Xsara :)
No worries! Have fun! 👌🐷💪👍
Hehe,yesss.
Have the same problem
Hello. Does it fit on the Xsara Picasso 1.8 16v?
If you get the one that fits...yes. just like other parts, they are different for different cars/engines. If there isn't one listed, measure yours and compare to the stated dimensions 👍
@@PiggyPower okay thank you Brother.
Need to replace it on a Peugeot 206 and my Picasso.
Just hate this engine mounts.
just bought a xsara Picasso 2005 noticed its quite clunky on first gear after pulling away.
presume its a similar process for the 1.6hdi
Garry Sutcliffe yes
Indeed
Is it avalable for pj 106 ?
Yes likely
I really should do this on the van, but i'm waiting for an mot to force to do it.....
Why wait for it to fail? The best maintenance is preventative. If the lower mount is dying, it will be prematurely wearing the other two mounts plus wiring and hoses etc
@@PiggyPower errrr the weather lol. It can go on the list with upgrading of the alternator and maybe the aux belt tensioner that clicks, and the (just started) drippy heater matrix. I don't get on well with cold temperatures and only have a drive to work on. But I'm not putting another set of synchro springs in the gearbox for it to eat them again, just too big a job getting that heavy thing in and out. (I have often wondered if the box could be opened and stripped on the engine, I know 5th can, but then wonder if the shell can be pulled then the gear assemblies leaving the bell housing behind, would be a right jigsaw....)
@@lezbriddon oh dear, I do most of my work on a drive/outside to be honest. I know how it is. As regards the box, I usually just put a replacement second hand box in, if something (like low or wrong oil) has worn syncros down, then the bearings etc will have suffered. Just my 2p there.
@@PiggyPower yeah boxers/relays are harder to find parts for and as 5th was a nightmare on these everyone else bought the spare donors up before I got this 5 years ago. It's a 2005 bottom end is basically xud so pretty standard on box fitment but it's the huge diff for the torque and the extra large diameter driveshafts that stops me dropping a car box in. I don't need all the heavy duty running gear as it's not loaded to 3t anymore it's just a gentle driven camper with a sofa bed.
This is close to impossible with the engine still in the car, and I think I've knackered it, as because there's a hose in the way, you can't really keep the blade straight, especially when you're trying to saw towards yourself upside down, I've cut too far, and gone into the steel, and even though the steel has been cut through, you can't get a good hit on it with the hammer due to its position, I'm completely stuck now
It's very hard on the car.
Jack up the car that end as high as it can go. Pull the shaft and unbolt the unit from the car. Hopefully you won't lose too much gearoil if you've jacked it up high enough. The casing is actually cast aluminium so do be careful with cutting into it too much
@@PiggyPower Managed to get the bush out, by jacking the car up from the other side and hitting it the other way, now like I said I had sawed a little into the housing, I've sanded away the rough edges, but there is still a few mm cut into the housing, will it be OK to install the new poly Bush with it like that?
Well done...crack on 👍👍👍🐷💪
@@PiggyPower I'm not 100% I've got the correct bush now lol, mine is different to the one you have on this video, mine didn't come with washers or the cut outs for the fork, and the inside parts of the bush are too small for the housing, and only the lips of the 2 parts of the bush make contact with the housing (if that makes sense) Mine is a 2.0 hdi if that makes any difference, thanks
There are different sizes. But if you've ordered one for a 2.0HDi it should be correct
What I do not understand is because the metal part of the bush is a pain to remove, why not just make the rubber insert for it that will simply fit into the existing metal part after removing the worn perished bits. The Powerflex one is a good idea but how about making a version that will be slightly smaller in DIA so it can be fitted with ease. Or does the Powerflex have enough flext to fit into the existing metal ring? Will it have enough give? Getting a hacksaw into the confined space under the car is NOT an easy one, but I shall check it out to see if I have enough space to cut the metal ring, just in case. Tx for the video, good one, but would have liked a few more options to resolve another french problem. Not much common sense went into the designing of this part and many others.
Johannes Meijer common sense regarding removal of parts is not a matter of design usually... This bush often will last the lifetime of a vehicle. You will still need to cut all the rubber out of the metal ring... Which would take time and be very awkward. The powerflex won't fit inside it either...it flexes but is surprisingly tight fitting, as it should be. Removal of this bracket can be simpler if your ball joint and drive shaft aren't seized!
How easy will it be to press the new 'metal' bush into place ?
Johannes Meijer pretty easy... As a trick to help, freeze the new bush... It will shrink the metal ring slightly. 👍
Hi buddy will this stop my engine from shaking side to side as I have changed gearbox mount and it's still shaking like a bitch 😅 or will a drive shift cause the engine to swing side to side in the wind
This prevents forward/back movement
Pug 306 lower engine mount fit there?
I'm not sure what you are asking??
@@PiggyPower could l use polyuretan lower engine mount from pug 306 om pug 807 with 2.0 Hdi rhw engine? Thx
No way i would do this those marks you found are from the chisel , i appreciate what you are trying to show here however its best to take it to an engineering shop or to someone who has a press pay them $20 of whatever pound equivalent and get them to press it out , if they press it out you can fit the powerflex bush yourself
Yup, but as you see, you can file them smooth. It's quite likely you find marks from previous swaps too. Could use a cheap press, pay someone to do it etc... But if you are watching a UA-cam video to help... Someone is likely trying to 1) do it themselves 2) save money.
Filed smooth and those marks won't effect a bush longevity like this
GREAT ! Well done.
legoclone777 thank you 😁👍🐷
Why didn't you simply take the mount off and use your press ?
As explained in the video, not everyone has a press... And to remove this on the vehicle means removing the driveshaft, which entails a lot of work, gearbox fluid etc.
Im not showing the fastest way or best way for ME in my guides... I'm thinking of my viewers 👌
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Why would you not just remove the brack and press out the old mount? A Shop press would make light work of that
Yes, as mentioned in the video, you can of course do that. However, when the engine/bracket is in the car, the o/s driveshaft runs through the bracket... Which means, dropping the o/s ball joint, draining the gearbox oil, removing the driveshaft (often seized in) and then taking the bracket off. . . Access is tricky on the vehicle, but if you had a air chisel or similar, it's pretty quick and even without saves a lot of hassle if you don't want to do all that and don't have a press.
Watch Darren lobb's videos..long done all this...
Alex Mckenzie thanks for commenting Alex.... "Long done all this"... Not sure what you mean?! 🐖