I want to thank you so much for this video. I can’t even tell you how much this helped me on my Orion project. Like, I had stopped going out to do projects or trying because i was having so much trouble with the processing. This one video here has literally gotten me over the hump. Thank you so so much.
Hey I just wanted to say THANK YOU SO MUCH!! You inspired me to get into astrophotography!! I only have 1 zoom lens right now and it’s the 75-300! You have taught me so much about astrophotography and editing!! Thank you! - Giovanni.
Very helpful for me in picking up the PS tools I need, so thanks so much. Very much appreciated! Over saturation of the M42 colors though is a very unrealistic look.
@@deltaastrophotography Yes I also do, but there's a lot of videos about shooting the milky way with a kit lens, and not so about a zoom lens like you just made. That video was awesome and if you could shoot another target that'd be really cool. But a milky way video is always nice :)
Great video, very informative and superb end result! Out of curiosity I noticed you used the 'Median' stacking mode for the lights in DSS, have you tried the others i.e. Kappa-SIgma Clipping etc. and if so did you notice any differences?
I was just using the default settings. I think it set the light frames to be stacked with Average and the darks to be stacked with Median. I have been stacking with Sequator and recently switched over to DSS when I started taking dark flats. I've noticed that it's not doing a good job getting rid of airplanes in my stack. I should experiment with some of the other settings. Thanks for bringing that up!
@@deltaastrophotography When you go to stack the images with DSS, click on the 'recommended settings' button and see what it suggests (normally based on number of images). Kappa-Sigma Clipping option will remove the trails from aircraft or satellites. Hope this helps. Clear skies!
So if you want to blow it up to 8×10 will it look great with what you just did? Or would you need to refine it more? Sadly I can't afford PS so I have Gimp! Which is fine, but when trying to learn the, tricks of the trade, it gets a little confusing.
Not at all! That's just a personal preference for me. I just want to show people different techniques so they can learn something and develop their own style!
How about something more in depth on the iOptron Sky Guider Pro. Something for first time users. how to set it up, best way to polar align, should the tracker be off while balancing , off while framing up, turned back on for final polar alignment after framed up or just leave it on frame up and re polar align. best ways to mount the camera accessories you use and recommend. apart from ASI Air and guide scope. Beginners I think aren't ready to get that much in debt just yet lol.
Can you get the sam on a 50mm 1.4 lense I like going out at mo with my d70 I got two lenses 50mm1.4 and 17-85 wide lense can get astro pics on both zooming right out then coming back in to clear sky
Hello, I have captured over 160 mins exposure data of Orion Nebula from nikond750 and tampon 150-600 mm lens from a bottle 6 sky. When I’m processing the data, I’m not able to get the details of the rightmost part of the nebula (when running man nebula is at left side). What am I doing wrong
Make a video on things to consider before buying telescope Like what is dia, focal length and f-no. Lens type etc Like what is the difference between 80x400 f5 and 80X900 f11 etc Budget astrophotography
It's not necessary to take flats and bias photos. But they really help with vignetting problems. Those problems can be pretty severe with certain lenses and telescopes.
First of all, great video keep up the good work :) I'm currently using a Nikon D610 fullframe camera with a 50mm f1.8 lens, but I've in the past couple of years been using cameras like the Canon EOS rebel (500D in EU), canon eos 250D and nikon D5200, where I had to go with at shutterspeed of about 5-6sec and an ISO at around 800. But I tried my Nikon D610 last night, and I had to go with a shutterspeed of 8sec, stop down to f2.8 and use the lowest value of ISO that is 2 setting under ISO 100 to not get the photos to look like they where taken in daytime and blow out the highlights. So my question is, with my camera and lens, would it be better for me to go for a f-stop of 1.8 and lower raise my shutterspeed to about 4-5sec and maybe raise the ISO to 100 or would it be better to use the shutterspeed of 8sec crank down the f-stop to 4.5, 5.6 or lower and maybe an ISO at 100-200 ? As you proberbly can tell, i'm new to astrophotography with a Fullframe camera :D Best regards Michael Denmark
Yes I think so! I was able to capture Neowise last year with a lens like that. I'm gonna go out this week and experiment. Maybe I'll be able to make a video!
@@deltaastrophotography cool. Speaking of video, what would be best, take several photos and stack it, or take a video and try stacking frames from that?
@@kevinashley478 it's not going to be as bright as the moon or planets, so I would recommend taking several shots and stacking. But not too many because it will be moving across the sky. I'm going to try to get up at 4:00 in the morning and shoot it. Wish me luck
also, deep sky stacker reduces the pixel density from 300 to 100. i noticed you kept your stacked image at 100dpi instead of resizing it back to 300dpi. intentional or unintentional? does it matter? thanks again.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Hands down the most clear tutorial in video format I have found. Thank you
I want to thank you so much for this video. I can’t even tell you how much this helped me on my Orion project. Like, I had stopped going out to do projects or trying because i was having so much trouble with the processing. This one video here has literally gotten me over the hump. Thank you so so much.
Finally a great tutorial on how to do image processing!
A big THANK YOU also from my side, your tutorial as so easy and effective that they save me hours in front of the PC !!!!
When you added the stars back in omg 😮
You are a good teacher as well! This is very useful and understandable.
Hey I just wanted to say THANK YOU SO MUCH!! You inspired me to get into astrophotography!! I only have 1 zoom lens right now and it’s the 75-300! You have taught me so much about astrophotography and editing!! Thank you! - Giovanni.
Even before watching the video i have given a like coz i know the video is gonna be great
Awesome video tutorial, well explained and epic shoot.
Very well done Sir! I always learn something from your videos and appreciate your levity. Stay spacey.
Would be wicked if you could do a guiding video, love all your stuff man keep smashing it!
WOW great video. Thank you for taking the time to make it
AMAziNG WORKFLOW, SURELY GONNA GIVE IT A TRY !! THANKS
Thanks so much for such a good tutorial! Really helped me out
Very helpful for me in picking up the PS tools I need, so thanks so much. Very much appreciated! Over saturation of the M42 colors though is a very unrealistic look.
Excellent PS tutorial 👍👍
Thank you
Loved it. Thanks, learn so much from your video's
You're the best! Thank you so much for this, and your inspiration to move me forward - really, really appreciated!
Thanks for the awesome content. Just got a canon 70d. I'm stoked for the journey I'm bout to embark on. All new to me. Hope the camera I chose is good
Very impressive
Thanks again! I enjoy your approach, very thorough and clear explanations. Can you image Carina ETA?
Great stuff - thanks for describing some really useful techniques!
Brilliant!
Excellent job pal.
Couldnt you create an inverted star mask and use hat to apply spot healing?
It would be cool to see a tutorial on moon stacking sometime in the future
Ok! That'll be fun!
Thanks so much for this video!
Please shoot another target with the same gear!! I'm loving these videos and I have the exact same gear
Do you have an 18-55mm kit lens? I might do a video with that one soon!
@@deltaastrophotography Yes I also do, but there's a lot of videos about shooting the milky way with a kit lens, and not so about a zoom lens like you just made. That video was awesome and if you could shoot another target that'd be really cool. But a milky way video is always nice :)
@@alexisdemers2740 Ok will do! Did you see the one I did on Andromeda with this lens?
DO A VIDEO FEATURING ALL UR GEAR
To not blow the core you need really short exposures. Even 10s at ISO 1600 and f/7.1 is very borderline for my camera.
Great video, very informative and superb end result! Out of curiosity I noticed you used the 'Median' stacking mode for the lights in DSS, have you tried the others i.e. Kappa-SIgma Clipping etc. and if so did you notice any differences?
I was just using the default settings. I think it set the light frames to be stacked with Average and the darks to be stacked with Median. I have been stacking with Sequator and recently switched over to DSS when I started taking dark flats. I've noticed that it's not doing a good job getting rid of airplanes in my stack. I should experiment with some of the other settings. Thanks for bringing that up!
@@deltaastrophotography When you go to stack the images with DSS, click on the 'recommended settings' button and see what it suggests (normally based on number of images). Kappa-Sigma Clipping option will remove the trails from aircraft or satellites. Hope this helps. Clear skies!
@@mikecole1337 Awesome! Thanks so much!
So if you want to blow it up to 8×10 will it look great with what you just did? Or would you need to refine it more? Sadly I can't afford PS so I have Gimp! Which is fine, but when trying to learn the, tricks of the trade, it gets a little confusing.
Great video.Is it essential to to make a star mask initially ?
Not at all! That's just a personal preference for me. I just want to show people different techniques so they can learn something and develop their own style!
@@deltaastrophotography great video. Very well explained how to selective adjust different parts of the image 👍
Why dont use Siril for stacking? He got a gradient exterminator and work better than DSS! Thanks for the video i've learn new things 😁👍
How about something more in depth on the iOptron Sky Guider Pro. Something for first time users.
how to set it up, best way to polar align, should the tracker be off while balancing , off while framing up, turned back on for final polar alignment after framed up or just leave it on frame up and re polar align. best ways to mount the camera accessories you use and recommend. apart from ASI Air and guide scope. Beginners I think aren't ready to get that much in debt just yet lol.
Thank you!!!
Question 75-300 mm f/4 ore what i need buy 😄 ?
Can you get the sam on a 50mm 1.4 lense I like going out at mo with my d70 I got two lenses 50mm1.4 and 17-85 wide lense can get astro pics on both zooming right out then coming back in to clear sky
Hello,
I have captured over 160 mins exposure data of Orion Nebula from nikond750 and tampon 150-600 mm lens from a bottle 6 sky. When I’m processing the data, I’m not able to get the details of the rightmost part of the nebula (when running man nebula is at left side). What am I doing wrong
celestron astromaster 70 az 70/900 f13 refractor vs meade infinity 70/700 f10 which is better
Make a video on things to consider before buying telescope
Like what is dia, focal length and f-no. Lens type etc
Like what is the difference between
80x400 f5 and 80X900 f11 etc
Budget astrophotography
Is it necessary to take biased, flats, and whites?
It's not necessary to take flats and bias photos. But they really help with vignetting problems. Those problems can be pretty severe with certain lenses and telescopes.
First of all, great video keep up the good work :)
I'm currently using a Nikon D610 fullframe camera with a 50mm f1.8 lens, but I've in the past couple of years been using cameras like the Canon EOS rebel (500D in EU), canon eos 250D and nikon D5200, where I had to go with at shutterspeed of about 5-6sec and an ISO at around 800.
But I tried my Nikon D610 last night, and I had to go with a shutterspeed of 8sec, stop down to f2.8 and use the lowest value of ISO that is 2 setting under ISO 100 to not get the photos to look like they where taken in daytime and blow out the highlights.
So my question is, with my camera and lens, would it be better for me to go for a f-stop of 1.8 and lower raise my shutterspeed to about 4-5sec and maybe raise the ISO to 100 or would it be better to use the shutterspeed of 8sec crank down the f-stop to 4.5, 5.6 or lower and maybe an ISO at 100-200 ?
As you proberbly can tell, i'm new to astrophotography with a Fullframe camera :D
Best regards
Michael
Denmark
Hey there. The Leonard comet should be visible within the next 2 weeks. Can it be photographed with a DSLR and a 250/300mm lens?
Yes I think so! I was able to capture Neowise last year with a lens like that. I'm gonna go out this week and experiment. Maybe I'll be able to make a video!
@@deltaastrophotography cool. Speaking of video, what would be best, take several photos and stack it, or take a video and try stacking frames from that?
@@kevinashley478 it's not going to be as bright as the moon or planets, so I would recommend taking several shots and stacking. But not too many because it will be moving across the sky. I'm going to try to get up at 4:00 in the morning and shoot it. Wish me luck
also, deep sky stacker reduces the pixel density from 300 to 100. i noticed you kept your stacked image at 100dpi instead of resizing it back to 300dpi. intentional or unintentional? does it matter? thanks again.
How would I open a TIFF file in photoshop? For some reason photoshop doesn't recognize the TIFF file. Anybody have any resources for this?
What version of Photoshop are you using? TIFF is a pretty standard format and most versions of Photoshop open it normally.
i noticed a couple of your light frames have different exposure times than the rest of them. was that intentional or unintentional?
Unintentional. Thanks for pointing that out! Some of my test photos must have gotten in there somehow!
🙏👍