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I love the feral energy as you try to do everything you can to learn well what it is that you're doing, while at the same time making as cool sh*t as you can
Personally, I greatly appreciate it when you show us the process of figuring out what does and doesn’t work. I get to learn from your mistakes as well as sort of “why” things are done the way they are
As someone who has played around and collected some experience with weapon foaming in moulds, let me give some pointers that should be really helpful. The first and most important is the mould. You do not want a soft silicone mould when casting in expanding foam. The problem is that it still can often expand when already having settled and not push anymore out of the spout, leading to deformations and problems in the casting. But even more, it is just needlessly expensive. As the foam the larp weapon is cast in is flexible, a hard mould is the better and much cheaper choice. To make it really cost effective, the mould can be printed wholesale, no master that a mould is taken off from needed. For limited runs that is perfectly fine so long as a filament is used that´s not too suceptible to heat. Resin-printing would be even more resilient and make getting fine details much simpler. As for the foam, a poly-ureathane foam isn the material of choice. Something like "Pur Gear One". SOmething you can also vary the properties off to achieve differnet densitys. Because a big benefit of foaming is that you can make the differnt parts of a weapon from differnt hrdnesses of foam. The hilt of a dagger a seperate piece that is made from a more solid foam, while the blade is made from a softer and has the core inside it sticking out at the end. The core is then slid into a channel inside the hilt and glued into place using a construction adhesive. This allows also for a very neat way of making the larp weapon very realistic, cold casting. By brushing metal powder onto the inside of the mould for the harder foam parts you can achieve a look very close to actual metal after polishing the powder embedded into the surface up very lightly. And for the core, you definitely want a tip protection. I personally like a bit of kevlar hose that goes over the tip of the core and extends a bit further to stop the risk of it piercing out. Another option would be to make a blunt cap that goes over the tip, that would work well too. When foaming one also want´s to add small holes close to the tip of the blade mould that fits something like thin fishing line that can then be used totie on and hold the tip of the core centered during foaming. It can be tied in a way that it can be pulled out of the blade after casting, leaving only two pinprick holes on each side that can easily be closed up with some fitting adhesive.
I honestly like these kind of video's because most projects aren't straight forward projects anyway. You'll never get the same tools, workspace, leather, foam, skills as you. So the progress of learning and trying is way more informative then the whole "This is how I do it". Both are good btw!
3:10 Just a tip for everyone, make sure you use "High Build" Primer. Using typical automotive primer still leaves some of the layer lines. Another option is to pour some UV resin on it, let it drain the excess back into the tank, and then cure what is on the part, by leaving it in the sun or hit it with a UV lamp/flashlight. 13:00 You can also smear a layer of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) or even mix some soap and water to act as a budget friendly film to keep the silicone separated.
With using the foam clay, instead of making 2 halves and trying to mash them back together later, I'd clamp the mold back together while the clay is still formable.
The problem is that it it way too soft to make the whole thing and it does not hold its shape without support . It needs to be applied to other foam surfaces or it will stretch and tear. But it is a very good to use as a filler and to make the finer details, as long as it is supported.
@@carloshenriquezimmer7543 To some extent I believe you, but he DID use it to make the whole thing and his problem was that the two halves puff up too much to just glue together. My suggestion is to solve THAT problem, not to solve it's eventual rigidity or softness once fully cured. It's a different problem. It's probably also applicable, I don't know, I don't work with this stuff, but don't pop in here correcting suggestions with problems they clearly weren't meant to solve.
I honestly like both styles tinkering around making things work is fun to experience and seeing you just show us how to make something is also enjoyable, I'd say to just mix it up, I'm sure we're all good with seeing both
The LARP dagger is great, as you get to actually stabby stabby people, but I still think that the foam molded dagger has some great uses as stuff you can put on costumes to show off your “dagger” as a threat to someone (as a bluff)
Please never use weapons with a core for stabbing! The cores can stab through the foam, especially when the glue gets older, and really hurt someone. Most cores are also made of fiberglass, and no one wants fiberglass in their wounds, they get inflamed a lot and hurt much more. What you might me able to do with smaller weapons is use the foam clay and paperstraws or similar this, that rather break/bend than hurt someone.
I actually work at the theatre and we use the quick setting foam to create some of the props. The point is actually to fill in more than what you did and squeeze it shut fully so it expands into itself then its smoother and has less bubbles. Also its better to have a silicone that is less flexible for that. You can also apply pigments on the inside and then pour in the foam so its cast metallic.
I really liked this style of video! I can't say that I'd want it all of the time but as an occasional feature, i think it really suits the vision of the channel to help folks learn and level up skills. Personally, I'd love to see this kind of video as a 2 part series whenever you are truly figuring out something from near zero. You could end video 1 just as you did today, with a recap of what you thought went well, what you learned didn't work so well, and maybe some thoughts on what you might do next. Then, off camera, work out the kinks and come back to us in video 2 where you do a straight tutorial style and make the project exactly the way you imagined it.
I love this episode! Your experiments are informative, and your presentation makes these videos extremely entertaining! Mattie, you should have more face time! Maybe have a split show where each of you create something cool and we, your loyal viewers, vote for our favorite... food for thought.. Set up your own mini workshop and level up, you!
Hmmm... you can call it something original like, "Forged in Latex" or "Slippery Adventures with Silicone"...uhh, on second thought, that might imply the wrong impression...
"You don't want to make something that you can poke into someone's eye. That's generally frowned upon in group fun events." Have I been hanging around in the wrong groups? I run a martial arts school and I think that what you say at the end is spot on: You have to be in a proper environment and mindset to push your technique instead of just trying to survive.
I think both types of video have their own merits, a straight up tutorial is good if you want to do exactly what you're showing, but an experiment video teaches the skills and shows the what/how/why of applying those skills and that might help people understand something in depth and help them on more projects than the thing you're showing us.
This is exactly how I go into every project! Love seeing other people’s process, because then I can steal the bits that I think I would love to try and maybe put my own spin on it. I’d love to see more content like this!
This episode with guidance on how to experiment with design options was a great way to share insight on the process. I usually get stuck trying to avoid mistakes and have trouble starting. Watching the experiment phase and previous episodes of the build process has inspired me to take chances. An interesting connection is how this episode would prepare someone for any of the tutorial videos already available
Seeing all the different variations is so awesome. And honestly, it helps to see what works and doesn't, so that while watching the "finished project" videos we dont think, "well what if you tried..." we see that you already did and "heres why It wasnt the finished project"
Foam Clay is used for things that are more organic ie, Horns, Antlers, and Tusks. But for weapons, you do it the same way as the others. Aluminum Foil to "Mold" the shape and then you put the Foam Clay onto that. Once it's fully dried, then you just smooth it out by sanding it and then painting it.
Honestly this is a great change of pace as far as these go. Personally just started working on designing cosplay EVA armor from scratch and I've watched quite a few videos about others who have done the same thing with different styles, and I find myself using part of a technique here and part there, working them into my own eventual style of building. Seeing different approaches and schools of thought are very interesting to me, especially with just starting to learn, it helps a lot!
I really enjoyed this style of video. I feel that adding some videos like this to your rotation is a great idea; I think it would also help streamline some of your bigger builds as you wouldn’t need to be super thorough in your explanations because these experiment oriented videos would already lay the groundwork.
I like watching you figure it out rather than "This is how to do it" as it makes it feel a lot more aprochable. That is what got me into leatherworking and I made a leather sheath for my friends LARP costume. You could do that for these daggers!
I really like this style of episode. Something that doesn't work for you for what you're doing can be a really interesting technique for someone else's project, so it's helpful to see the methods that you consider dead ends.
I actually enjoyed this episode more than the normal “polished” episodes. Seeing the way you approach experimenting helped me significantly. I have to fight my perfectionist tendencies, so the idea for “investing in loss” was an eye opener. I would love to see more episodes with similar experimentation or methodology. Having both styles is super motivating. Thanks for all the hard work!
Absolutely show the messing around and trying things. It's useful, it's fun and interesting, and it's reassuring to those of us who... well, who learn by doing things that way to begin with.
Both types of episodes are great. While I don't LARP with foam weapons (though it would be cool to attend the LARP in Germany to participate, camp with good people, and visit the country), I do engage in LARPing through By Night Studio games and attend SCA events. Even though I don't use foam weapons, I appreciate their value as props. I found it fascinating to see the various methods you employed to test and create that dagger.
practice vs. winning is pressure testing. this is great advice. In sparring to win, if you win you learn, if you lose, you learn. This keeps us humble. I liked this. *BUT* now I want to see the final results maybe a pair of them you settled on.
Honestly, I like all your videos, but I really appreciate the transparency of this kind of video so I can learn from your mistakes before I attempt a similar project.
Oh, yeah. Love seeing you tackle molding and casting! Been making action figure and wargame parts for a decade plus. So since you like the size and heft of the EVA dagger, pull that suede grip wrap off and make a mold of THAT model. Looks like you'll have plenty of room in it for your core. And like you said - the mold/cast approach is really best for mass-producing them, rather than making one-offs.
I really like to see your tought and testing process. I already tried to inject mold my own daggers. I am happy to see you "all" this year at conquest.
It is great to see different ways to do things. I always like to know three ways of doing something, the easiest way, the most cost efficient way, and the way that gets the best results. There are reasons to each at different times.
Process is amazing. More of this. What you said is great about watching videos to copy but never learning. These random concepts give people jumping points if they still wanna try one of the "failed" methods
I LOVE this kind of episode!! The concept to finish is great and I personally love experimenting on new techniques. I would love to see more of them. It would also be nice to then see a follow-up (either at the end or separate video) with final project wrap-up. E.g. try the foam form with a better size and core or latex only foam sword. We could then see the whole process: thesis, antithesis and synthesis! 😃
I myself practice on the scrap material I am going to use later in a final project to learn what is the best way to get the desired out come. So seeing both you learning to use a medium and then showing a video after you perfect your look is allowing me to get my desided look sooner so I can avoid some of the early mistakes.
I've literally been looking into resources regarding this because my go-to for custom work closed up shop and the larp I do is a lightest-touch so they get real nervous around latex/plastidip. This video was EXACTLY what I needed to see to make some choices!
One additional thing you might want to try to get better surface detail on those foam molded swords. Try painting the mold with the liquid latex before adding the foam, this will produce a highly detailed "skin" and should give you a better finish. I am not sure how durable that finish would be though. Looking forward to a part two!
To make a thicker blade for the mold you could make a third part to the mold it would be in between the two outer edges just to add some thickness for the core
Great Episode. Fun Fact You also just made a mold for throwing knives! You fill that badboy with like foam it 15-ish and you get a nice chuckable blade. Since throwing weapons can't have cores in a lot of larps. It's quite literally also what I've been working on for the past month. Good shit dude!
Hello. I just wanted to say thank you for the video. It was great to see the process of experimenting with different ideas and figuring out what really works and what could maybe work in a different way. But more importantly, thank you for the message about investing in failure as a way to learn. I've been so stuck on making the perfect prop the first time that I've been afraid to experiment with different techniques because they may not work out the way I want. I'm not developing my skills as a crafter as much as I could because I'm so focused on copying what others are doing. Most often I'm not having fun making the project I'm working on. Watching this video (that randomly appeared on my home page btw - may the algorithm be ever in your favor) I remember what made me want to craft props in the first place - experimenting and having fun. So again, thank you.
Absolutely love the experimental style of video. I do the same thing going back and forth on different techniques and materials. Even if I don't succeed at making what I wanted, I learned about all the different ways to do it. A technique might not be good for what I'm doing now, but it might be helpful later for something else.
How do you just always upload whatever it is that I’m trying to build for my fiancé and I’s ren fair costume lol. Crazy but I’m always thankful I can stop looking around the internet so frantically
RIGHT?! It's uncanny how Cl3ver and Maddie seems to always know what video we want to see for our CURRENT project and leave enough to have us thinking about the next project.
I like both styles of videos. This one was great for seeing different ways of gettign to the end product and the ones where you show how to build a particular thing is great too.
For the core, I would’ve done it like a candle. Or a plum line, where it’s held straight and away from the walls on all sides by gravity itself. The mould would just require a ridged frame secured to the outside walls of it.
I enjoyed seeing the experiments and the insight to your thought process. I guess it would be perfect if you could make a few of each type of video... sometimes I have the time and focus to watch an experiment and other times I want answers quick and to the point.
another tip for making 3-d prints smooth (aka removing layer lines) is to use filler primer (i personally use the rustoleum automotive filler primer but you can use other stuff) and be sure to sand after every layer (i spray 5-7 layers depending on what it is)
If you ever do Meridas Beacon, you should do a teaser in the previous episode by trying to grab a tool or something but pulling out the already-made beacon, and having your wife do the "A new hand touches the beacon" line
One other thing you might consider with using a mold for it is to take an idea from movie prop making for weapons and similar things. They use a denser rubber in the molds (I think it's a polyeurethane rubber) that they cast up for it with a lot of knives and guns so that they can get banged up and means that the real weapons being used are minimally handled. Also, I wonder if you might be able to borrow some techniques with the foam for casting and use some metallic pigments in the mold before you fill it to make more directly good looking weapon.
I'd suggest hanging/capturing the core from the hilt end or blade end of the mould first then you have no need for inconsistent surface finish. You can then flip it over and put the now cast and cored blade in the other way up to cast the hilt/pommel/crossguard section or visa versa depending on which side you cast onto the core first. Or just cast the hilts and blade seperately on purpose with a common mating shape and the core hole so you can glue the core into them and then mix and match the blades.
Gotta try, stab-safe rapier? Would be so fun to have a good stabby rapier (which can also be used to cut without flopping too much and/or being not-rapierly thick)
I know you made a few board games for a gambler's kit. For a woodworking project, might be interesting to make a Pai Sho set like from "Avatar: The Last Airbender," particularly showing different ways to make the tiles such as leather press, flat painted, or wood dremeling.
Regarding the detail work--have you ever tried vacuuforming? Building a small vacuuformer is a little tricky, but can be done with just a piece of plywood, a shop vac, a heat gun, and some common tools. Adam Savage and Ashenwarrior Props have some good tutorial videos, but you can use one of those with some thin (~1-2mm) EVA along with one of those 3D printed blanks to capture a ton of fairly fine detail quickly, then just contact cement the detail piece onto the sword/dagger/whatever you're working on.
I can't say I have a strong preference between "how-to" and "trial and error." Both formats provide a ton of value because on the one side there's "here's this thing I really want to learn how to do and this is exactly how to do it" and on the other side there's "I can't do it the way the how-to said to, here are some other options I might have tried or might even have thought of and the problems I could run into." I'd say roughly 85-95% of the time when I see a how-to/tutorial video I've found myself thinking "whelp, I don't have a fancy CNC machine or a heavy duty leather sewing crank or any of these other machines or equipment that costs more than my semi-employed butt makes in a year so I guess I'm never making one of these" and I just give up on it and get really discouraged and depressed because I want to make all of the things but I can't afford fancy equipment. So it can be really helpful to see other approaches, not only for the sake of seeing what else can work but also to spare me from investing in experimenting in a method that will NOT work. That lesson you mentioned from your martial arts days, that's something I really need to ingrain into my psyche because I have a bad habit of amassing a ridiculous amount of scrap and "junk" for projects, and an endless list of project ideas, but I never actually DO anything because "if it doesn't come out perfect on the first try I've just wasted all these materials I might never have access to again" so instead I make...nothing. And stuff piles up literally to the ceiling everywhere because I won't use it and I can't bring myself to just toss it out or even pass it along to the next tinkerer because "what if I finally get the perfect idea AND the motivation to do it AND a sudden jolt of confidence that I can do it right in one shot but now I don't have that one ridiculously specific component because I threw it away." I tell ya, the creative mind is absolutely maddening sometimes.
the constant swinging of a floppy dagger while emphasizing points (budum tsh), it's hard not to smile and chuckle a bit. Curious to see how a denser foam would turn out in the mold. also yea maybe beefing up the thickness by 15-20% would help a bit even if moving to a denser foam
i love to see the progress, i myself always start the same way. first thing of a way on how to approach the project then try out if the idea works. aster that start on the actual project :)
The Burgschneider cores are thinner and might be better for some projects but if the project can hold it Tractor Supply sells 3/8" x 4' fiberglass rods for $2.19. Way less than the $8-11 of the other. It's pretty easy to cut through, I bet there's a way to thin down one of the tractor supply rods to get the same effect for less. From my experience the Tractor Supply rods seem to be the most common core in Dagorhir. (For short swords at least, I think longer weapons often use kitespar. I don't have any experience with the long bois though so I wouldn't swear to it.)
With the liquid latex, thin it out a little more with naptha or ammonia. It will smooth better and your brush lines can also get smoothed out a little more
Hi! Little tip since i did a full change of my sword blade part not too long ago but plasti dip can be find in liquid-paint version. Wich is going to offer a bit of the two option that you did for the second dagger wich are a more good looking finish with something you can trust if you have to go hard with your weapon. (Not too hard of course but more than light contact. Like when you store it, it can be put in some random place)
9:35 - Funny enough; in high school, my mechanic teacher just bought a can of liquid latex and dipped all his tool handles in it, putting a good gripping coating on everything. Along with the advice, "Use an absurd colour liquid latex to be able to identify your tools when you're sharing a garage." So, yup, you probably could just dip the whole piece in liquid latex for a smoother drip dry finish. Edit: 10:46 - And here we find out Kit is actually Sheogorath. Cheese! Cheese for everyone!
i dont know how you find the time to test a project, then do it again to film it. Props to your time management. Also, so plastidip for a cast iron look, and liquid latex for "polished"? Personally i prefer the experimental format cause then i have more information on what does and doesnt work. Its a great way to accidentally include info that is easily missed, like how the pillow soft was too soft and how the core didnt stay centered
I think the foam clay may work if you filled both halves of the mold with the clay then clamped them together. It would depend on whether or not the foam clay would adhere to itself while drying. Just a thought.
A useful tip I learned from OdinMakes is that you can use acetone on top of PlastiDip to smooth out the surface and remove the pitted texture. It always gives a better look, especially for Metalics
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I love the feral energy as you try to do everything you can to learn well what it is that you're doing, while at the same time making as cool sh*t as you can
Oh my goodness! Thank you for using my layer line smoothing technique! So happy it worked out well for you☺️ awesome video!
Personally, I greatly appreciate it when you show us the process of figuring out what does and doesn’t work. I get to learn from your mistakes as well as sort of “why” things are done the way they are
This was my favorite episode I’ve seen. This also makes me think of a back alley blade salesman character *Opens cloak* “Need a blade?”
i definitely like the "learn as you go" style. it shows WHY you do something vs. here's HOW you do it
Learning is not about the end result of the project it is about seeing where the technique takes you.
As someone who has played around and collected some experience with weapon foaming in moulds, let me give some pointers that should be really helpful.
The first and most important is the mould. You do not want a soft silicone mould when casting in expanding foam. The problem is that it still can often expand when already having settled and not push anymore out of the spout, leading to deformations and problems in the casting. But even more, it is just needlessly expensive. As the foam the larp weapon is cast in is flexible, a hard mould is the better and much cheaper choice. To make it really cost effective, the mould can be printed wholesale, no master that a mould is taken off from needed. For limited runs that is perfectly fine so long as a filament is used that´s not too suceptible to heat. Resin-printing would be even more resilient and make getting fine details much simpler.
As for the foam, a poly-ureathane foam isn the material of choice. Something like "Pur Gear One". SOmething you can also vary the properties off to achieve differnet densitys. Because a big benefit of foaming is that you can make the differnt parts of a weapon from differnt hrdnesses of foam. The hilt of a dagger a seperate piece that is made from a more solid foam, while the blade is made from a softer and has the core inside it sticking out at the end. The core is then slid into a channel inside the hilt and glued into place using a construction adhesive.
This allows also for a very neat way of making the larp weapon very realistic, cold casting. By brushing metal powder onto the inside of the mould for the harder foam parts you can achieve a look very close to actual metal after polishing the powder embedded into the surface up very lightly.
And for the core, you definitely want a tip protection. I personally like a bit of kevlar hose that goes over the tip of the core and extends a bit further to stop the risk of it piercing out. Another option would be to make a blunt cap that goes over the tip, that would work well too. When foaming one also want´s to add small holes close to the tip of the blade mould that fits something like thin fishing line that can then be used totie on and hold the tip of the core centered during foaming. It can be tied in a way that it can be pulled out of the blade after casting, leaving only two pinprick holes on each side that can easily be closed up with some fitting adhesive.
Great advice! Thanks!
That’s a lot of good advice 🤯
The 'Wheel of Cheese' bit is too relatable.
I honestly like these kind of video's because most projects aren't straight forward projects anyway. You'll never get the same tools, workspace, leather, foam, skills as you. So the progress of learning and trying is way more informative then the whole "This is how I do it". Both are good btw!
3:10 Just a tip for everyone, make sure you use "High Build" Primer. Using typical automotive primer still leaves some of the layer lines.
Another option is to pour some UV resin on it, let it drain the excess back into the tank, and then cure what is on the part, by leaving it in the sun or hit it with a UV lamp/flashlight.
13:00 You can also smear a layer of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) or even mix some soap and water to act as a budget friendly film to keep the silicone separated.
With using the foam clay, instead of making 2 halves and trying to mash them back together later, I'd clamp the mold back together while the clay is still formable.
The problem is that it it way too soft to make the whole thing and it does not hold its shape without support . It needs to be applied to other foam surfaces or it will stretch and tear.
But it is a very good to use as a filler and to make the finer details, as long as it is supported.
@@carloshenriquezimmer7543 To some extent I believe you, but he DID use it to make the whole thing and his problem was that the two halves puff up too much to just glue together. My suggestion is to solve THAT problem, not to solve it's eventual rigidity or softness once fully cured. It's a different problem. It's probably also applicable, I don't know, I don't work with this stuff, but don't pop in here correcting suggestions with problems they clearly weren't meant to solve.
I honestly like both styles tinkering around making things work is fun to experience and seeing you just show us how to make something is also enjoyable, I'd say to just mix it up, I'm sure we're all good with seeing both
The LARP dagger is great, as you get to actually stabby stabby people, but I still think that the foam molded dagger has some great uses as stuff you can put on costumes to show off your “dagger” as a threat to someone (as a bluff)
Please never use weapons with a core for stabbing! The cores can stab through the foam, especially when the glue gets older, and really hurt someone. Most cores are also made of fiberglass, and no one wants fiberglass in their wounds, they get inflamed a lot and hurt much more.
What you might me able to do with smaller weapons is use the foam clay and paperstraws or similar this, that rather break/bend than hurt someone.
I actually work at the theatre and we use the quick setting foam to create some of the props. The point is actually to fill in more than what you did and squeeze it shut fully so it expands into itself then its smoother and has less bubbles. Also its better to have a silicone that is less flexible for that. You can also apply pigments on the inside and then pour in the foam so its cast metallic.
I really liked this style of video! I can't say that I'd want it all of the time but as an occasional feature, i think it really suits the vision of the channel to help folks learn and level up skills. Personally, I'd love to see this kind of video as a 2 part series whenever you are truly figuring out something from near zero. You could end video 1 just as you did today, with a recap of what you thought went well, what you learned didn't work so well, and maybe some thoughts on what you might do next. Then, off camera, work out the kinks and come back to us in video 2 where you do a straight tutorial style and make the project exactly the way you imagined it.
Good idea
I love this episode! Your experiments are informative, and your presentation makes these videos extremely entertaining!
Mattie, you should have more face time! Maybe have a split show where each of you create something cool and we, your loyal viewers, vote for our favorite... food for thought.. Set up your own mini workshop and level up, you!
Hmmm... you can call it something original like, "Forged in Latex" or "Slippery Adventures with Silicone"...uhh, on second thought, that might imply the wrong impression...
"You don't want to make something that you can poke into someone's eye. That's generally frowned upon in group fun events." Have I been hanging around in the wrong groups?
I run a martial arts school and I think that what you say at the end is spot on: You have to be in a proper environment and mindset to push your technique instead of just trying to survive.
I think both types of video have their own merits, a straight up tutorial is good if you want to do exactly what you're showing, but an experiment video teaches the skills and shows the what/how/why of applying those skills and that might help people understand something in depth and help them on more projects than the thing you're showing us.
This is exactly how I go into every project! Love seeing other people’s process, because then I can steal the bits that I think I would love to try and maybe put my own spin on it. I’d love to see more content like this!
This episode with guidance on how to experiment with design options was a great way to share insight on the process. I usually get stuck trying to avoid mistakes and have trouble starting.
Watching the experiment phase and previous episodes of the build process has inspired me to take chances.
An interesting connection is how this episode would prepare someone for any of the tutorial videos already available
Seeing all the different variations is so awesome. And honestly, it helps to see what works and doesn't, so that while watching the "finished project" videos we dont think, "well what if you tried..." we see that you already did and "heres why It wasnt the finished project"
Foam Clay is used for things that are more organic ie, Horns, Antlers, and Tusks. But for weapons, you do it the same way as the others. Aluminum Foil to "Mold" the shape and then you put the Foam Clay onto that. Once it's fully dried, then you just smooth it out by sanding it and then painting it.
Good video, I like how you experiment and when you make accurate videos. Keep making such amazing videos!
Honestly this is a great change of pace as far as these go. Personally just started working on designing cosplay EVA armor from scratch and I've watched quite a few videos about others who have done the same thing with different styles, and I find myself using part of a technique here and part there, working them into my own eventual style of building. Seeing different approaches and schools of thought are very interesting to me, especially with just starting to learn, it helps a lot!
I really enjoyed this style of video. I feel that adding some videos like this to your rotation is a great idea; I think it would also help streamline some of your bigger builds as you wouldn’t need to be super thorough in your explanations because these experiment oriented videos would already lay the groundwork.
I like watching you figure it out rather than "This is how to do it" as it makes it feel a lot more aprochable. That is what got me into leatherworking and I made a leather sheath for my friends LARP costume. You could do that for these daggers!
I really like this style of episode. Something that doesn't work for you for what you're doing can be a really interesting technique for someone else's project, so it's helpful to see the methods that you consider dead ends.
I love watching the process as well as watching the master class! This is kind of like a 'behind the scenes'
I actually enjoyed this episode more than the normal “polished” episodes. Seeing the way you approach experimenting helped me significantly. I have to fight my perfectionist tendencies, so the idea for “investing in loss” was an eye opener. I would love to see more episodes with similar experimentation or methodology. Having both styles is super motivating. Thanks for all the hard work!
Absolutely show the messing around and trying things. It's useful, it's fun and interesting, and it's reassuring to those of us who... well, who learn by doing things that way to begin with.
Both types of episodes are great. While I don't LARP with foam weapons (though it would be cool to attend the LARP in Germany to participate, camp with good people, and visit the country), I do engage in LARPing through By Night Studio games and attend SCA events. Even though I don't use foam weapons, I appreciate their value as props. I found it fascinating to see the various methods you employed to test and create that dagger.
practice vs. winning is pressure testing. this is great advice. In sparring to win, if you win you learn, if you lose, you learn. This keeps us humble. I liked this. *BUT* now I want to see the final results maybe a pair of them you settled on.
Honestly, I like all your videos, but I really appreciate the transparency of this kind of video so I can learn from your mistakes before I attempt a similar project.
Oh, yeah. Love seeing you tackle molding and casting! Been making action figure and wargame parts for a decade plus. So since you like the size and heft of the EVA dagger, pull that suede grip wrap off and make a mold of THAT model. Looks like you'll have plenty of room in it for your core. And like you said - the mold/cast approach is really best for mass-producing them, rather than making one-offs.
I really like to see your tought and testing process. I already tried to inject mold my own daggers.
I am happy to see you "all" this year at conquest.
It is great to see different ways to do things. I always like to know three ways of doing something, the easiest way, the most cost efficient way, and the way that gets the best results. There are reasons to each at different times.
Process is amazing. More of this. What you said is great about watching videos to copy but never learning. These random concepts give people jumping points if they still wanna try one of the "failed" methods
I always enjoy your “ experimental” videos. Your enthusiasm is contagious!
I LOVE this kind of episode!! The concept to finish is great and I personally love experimenting on new techniques. I would love to see more of them. It would also be nice to then see a follow-up (either at the end or separate video) with final project wrap-up. E.g. try the foam form with a better size and core or latex only foam sword. We could then see the whole process: thesis, antithesis and synthesis! 😃
I like everything about this channel, no matter what the format is or which skill we're leveling.
I myself practice on the scrap material I am going to use later in a final project to learn what is the best way to get the desired out come. So seeing both you learning to use a medium and then showing a video after you perfect your look is allowing me to get my desided look sooner so I can avoid some of the early mistakes.
Love this style video. I love working with EVA, and foam clay is a staple for details, gap fil and organic shapes. 😊
VERY much love the experimentation. You learn from the things that don't work, and maybe come up with a twist that still improves the 'right' way.
I've literally been looking into resources regarding this because my go-to for custom work closed up shop and the larp I do is a lightest-touch so they get real nervous around latex/plastidip. This video was EXACTLY what I needed to see to make some choices!
One additional thing you might want to try to get better surface detail on those foam molded swords. Try painting the mold with the liquid latex before adding the foam, this will produce a highly detailed "skin" and should give you a better finish. I am not sure how durable that finish would be though. Looking forward to a part two!
To make a thicker blade for the mold you could make a third part to the mold it would be in between the two outer edges just to add some thickness for the core
Great Episode. Fun Fact You also just made a mold for throwing knives! You fill that badboy with like foam it 15-ish and you get a nice chuckable blade. Since throwing weapons can't have cores in a lot of larps. It's quite literally also what I've been working on for the past month. Good shit dude!
Hello. I just wanted to say thank you for the video. It was great to see the process of experimenting with different ideas and figuring out what really works and what could maybe work in a different way. But more importantly, thank you for the message about investing in failure as a way to learn. I've been so stuck on making the perfect prop the first time that I've been afraid to experiment with different techniques because they may not work out the way I want. I'm not developing my skills as a crafter as much as I could because I'm so focused on copying what others are doing. Most often I'm not having fun making the project I'm working on. Watching this video (that randomly appeared on my home page btw - may the algorithm be ever in your favor) I remember what made me want to craft props in the first place - experimenting and having fun. So again, thank you.
I really enjoyed this sort of video. It was nice seeing you experiment with different techniques and figuring out which one worked best
Absolutely love the experimental style of video. I do the same thing going back and forth on different techniques and materials. Even if I don't succeed at making what I wanted, I learned about all the different ways to do it. A technique might not be good for what I'm doing now, but it might be helpful later for something else.
You can also use UV resin to fill the gaps. Makes a really nice smooth finish.
How do you just always upload whatever it is that I’m trying to build for my fiancé and I’s ren fair costume lol. Crazy but I’m always thankful I can stop looking around the internet so frantically
RIGHT?! It's uncanny how Cl3ver and Maddie seems to always know what video we want to see for our CURRENT project and leave enough to have us thinking about the next project.
Yes! Totally love the experimenting format, i actually feel im learning more than following a tutorial…
Keep up the good work!
I like this kind of episode better. Feeling out how to do something is the way I learn.
Love this style of DIY, iterative experimentation! Like you alluded to, this stuff helps us all level up our skills more!
Ah this was a mood. I like experimenting when making projects too so I loved watching this episode
You could make the Handle out of moulded foam and later add the sandwich blade. Best of both worlds!
I love the format of this episode, seeing what works and what doesn't satisfies my curious brain 😂
While your standard videos are awesome. The occasional video like this for the base level lessons is super helpful too.
I like both styles of videos. This one was great for seeing different ways of gettign to the end product and the ones where you show how to build a particular thing is great too.
For the core, I would’ve done it like a candle. Or a plum line, where it’s held straight and away from the walls on all sides by gravity itself. The mould would just require a ridged frame secured to the outside walls of it.
I’ve been thinking about this stuff for a while so I’m grateful for this tutorial.
Loved this format, I learned so much from seeing you explore. Would love to see more like this!
I enjoyed seeing the experiments and the insight to your thought process. I guess it would be perfect if you could make a few of each type of video... sometimes I have the time and focus to watch an experiment and other times I want answers quick and to the point.
This was such a great episode! I loved all the different styles of the building.
I really like the freeform content where you learn with us. Keep up the good work
I love all the playing around! Lots of fun.
another tip for making 3-d prints smooth (aka removing layer lines) is to use filler primer (i personally use the rustoleum automotive filler primer but you can use other stuff) and be sure to sand after every layer (i spray 5-7 layers depending on what it is)
If you ever do Meridas Beacon, you should do a teaser in the previous episode by trying to grab a tool or something but pulling out the already-made beacon, and having your wife do the "A new hand touches the beacon" line
One other thing you might consider with using a mold for it is to take an idea from movie prop making for weapons and similar things. They use a denser rubber in the molds (I think it's a polyeurethane rubber) that they cast up for it with a lot of knives and guns so that they can get banged up and means that the real weapons being used are minimally handled.
Also, I wonder if you might be able to borrow some techniques with the foam for casting and use some metallic pigments in the mold before you fill it to make more directly good looking weapon.
I'd suggest hanging/capturing the core from the hilt end or blade end of the mould first then you have no need for inconsistent surface finish. You can then flip it over and put the now cast and cored blade in the other way up to cast the hilt/pommel/crossguard section or visa versa depending on which side you cast onto the core first. Or just cast the hilts and blade seperately on purpose with a common mating shape and the core hole so you can glue the core into them and then mix and match the blades.
Great format. Nice knowing how to just do it, but seeing this way gives us a chance to maybe think of alt ideas.
I love this video style. Figuring it out with us helps me figure out more
Gotta try, stab-safe rapier? Would be so fun to have a good stabby rapier (which can also be used to cut without flopping too much and/or being not-rapierly thick)
I know you made a few board games for a gambler's kit. For a woodworking project, might be interesting to make a Pai Sho set like from "Avatar: The Last Airbender," particularly showing different ways to make the tiles such as leather press, flat painted, or wood dremeling.
Regarding the detail work--have you ever tried vacuuforming? Building a small vacuuformer is a little tricky, but can be done with just a piece of plywood, a shop vac, a heat gun, and some common tools. Adam Savage and Ashenwarrior Props have some good tutorial videos, but you can use one of those with some thin (~1-2mm) EVA along with one of those 3D printed blanks to capture a ton of fairly fine detail quickly, then just contact cement the detail piece onto the sword/dagger/whatever you're working on.
I am so excited for this!!! Thank you, I have been dying to try doing foam weapons but most of my experiments have not panned out. This is perfect!
Dang this is almost like 3 tutorials in one, two different ways to make a dagger and 3 different ways to finish them!
I can't say I have a strong preference between "how-to" and "trial and error." Both formats provide a ton of value because on the one side there's "here's this thing I really want to learn how to do and this is exactly how to do it" and on the other side there's "I can't do it the way the how-to said to, here are some other options I might have tried or might even have thought of and the problems I could run into." I'd say roughly 85-95% of the time when I see a how-to/tutorial video I've found myself thinking "whelp, I don't have a fancy CNC machine or a heavy duty leather sewing crank or any of these other machines or equipment that costs more than my semi-employed butt makes in a year so I guess I'm never making one of these" and I just give up on it and get really discouraged and depressed because I want to make all of the things but I can't afford fancy equipment. So it can be really helpful to see other approaches, not only for the sake of seeing what else can work but also to spare me from investing in experimenting in a method that will NOT work.
That lesson you mentioned from your martial arts days, that's something I really need to ingrain into my psyche because I have a bad habit of amassing a ridiculous amount of scrap and "junk" for projects, and an endless list of project ideas, but I never actually DO anything because "if it doesn't come out perfect on the first try I've just wasted all these materials I might never have access to again" so instead I make...nothing. And stuff piles up literally to the ceiling everywhere because I won't use it and I can't bring myself to just toss it out or even pass it along to the next tinkerer because "what if I finally get the perfect idea AND the motivation to do it AND a sudden jolt of confidence that I can do it right in one shot but now I don't have that one ridiculously specific component because I threw it away."
I tell ya, the creative mind is absolutely maddening sometimes.
the constant swinging of a floppy dagger while emphasizing points (budum tsh), it's hard not to smile and chuckle a bit. Curious to see how a denser foam would turn out in the mold. also yea maybe beefing up the thickness by 15-20% would help a bit even if moving to a denser foam
i love to see the progress, i myself always start the same way. first thing of a way on how to approach the project then try out if the idea works. aster that start on the actual project :)
I love the structured and the how to, l think the mix of the too is great
I like this format. I have a hard tome just trying stuff. I doing it more. Thanks
Great video, really like the happy mistakes way of building and constructing! Keep up the great content, hope Madi is recovering😊
These are some awesome 3d printing tips too, lots of skills to level up!
The Burgschneider cores are thinner and might be better for some projects but if the project can hold it Tractor Supply sells 3/8" x 4' fiberglass rods for $2.19. Way less than the $8-11 of the other. It's pretty easy to cut through, I bet there's a way to thin down one of the tractor supply rods to get the same effect for less. From my experience the Tractor Supply rods seem to be the most common core in Dagorhir. (For short swords at least, I think longer weapons often use kitespar. I don't have any experience with the long bois though so I wouldn't swear to it.)
yes for the experimentation i find it awesome
The latex can be watered down with demineralised water. Wich makes the brush marks level out but Takes abit longer to dry enough for the next layer
With the liquid latex, thin it out a little more with naptha or ammonia. It will smooth better and your brush lines can also get smoothed out a little more
Hi! Little tip since i did a full change of my sword blade part not too long ago but plasti dip can be find in liquid-paint version. Wich is going to offer a bit of the two option that you did for the second dagger wich are a more good looking finish with something you can trust if you have to go hard with your weapon. (Not too hard of course but more than light contact. Like when you store it, it can be put in some random place)
I love this style! It feels like playing
I can’t wait for you to dive into vacuum forming
i love your craft vidoes like this and Honestly with these love how you go along the process and just see what goes what very informative
Loved this episode, and all the experimentation!
9:35 - Funny enough; in high school, my mechanic teacher just bought a can of liquid latex and dipped all his tool handles in it, putting a good gripping coating on everything. Along with the advice, "Use an absurd colour liquid latex to be able to identify your tools when you're sharing a garage." So, yup, you probably could just dip the whole piece in liquid latex for a smoother drip dry finish.
Edit: 10:46 - And here we find out Kit is actually Sheogorath. Cheese! Cheese for everyone!
i dont know how you find the time to test a project, then do it again to film it. Props to your time management.
Also, so plastidip for a cast iron look, and liquid latex for "polished"? Personally i prefer the experimental format cause then i have more information on what does and doesnt work. Its a great way to accidentally include info that is easily missed, like how the pillow soft was too soft and how the core didnt stay centered
I think the foam clay may work if you filled both halves of the mold with the clay then clamped them together. It would depend on whether or not the foam clay would adhere to itself while drying. Just a thought.
Many great ideas to try out and enjoy the process.
A useful tip I learned from OdinMakes is that you can use acetone on top of PlastiDip to smooth out the surface and remove the pitted texture. It always gives a better look, especially for Metalics
What a chill watch.