im glad i saw your video cause i almost went with s&j but i have a coworker that ordered a s&j for his ford ranger and nothing but problem from day 1!! rear main seal leak, oil pan and timing chain leak, so the shop that installed it sent it back for the warranty and he's still waiting for the engine to come back.
Good to know concerning the backwards rear seal and head gasket. I also did not reinstall the girdle, but do have the ARP spacer kit, I just didn't feel like fighting the pan more than I already did to clear the oil pump. I'll likely go your route when I do end up pulling the motor out again. Plan for me right now is to have my old head gone through and rebuilt, then I'll yank the motor to do everything. Can't wait to see yours run!
Should be running later this week, working on it slowly. I’ll post a video when it’s finished. Honestly I was super worried about “clearancing” the oil pan but it really doesn’t need to go very far to clear the lowered girdle.
Pretty sure when Power Nation weighed the cast head it came in at like 57 pounds and the Edelbrock was like 35 pounds… huge weight savings. I know you had some issues with the head but, there is room for improvement with more power in the future, port and polish, bigger valves… so there is that and that would be the time to upgrade your cam & timing set… you’ve got a stock cam in that thing right? May a little better.. ? I built my own engine and this is a one and done.. so got the big cam and went with all MSD accessories and their Atomic EFI 4 barrel… that’s another upgrade you can do and get more POWAH! Anyway great video
I’ve never seen a Main Girdle where the structure was in the middle with tabs going out to the studs like that, but I’ve only worked with them on v8s. IDK really, just wanted to leave you a comment. That motor looks sweet!
man that engine looks good! one word of caution though. It is advised to not switch from main BOLTS to main STUDS withought checking the line hone in the block as the studs CAN distort the bore differently then the bolts. Hopefully not in your case! just a heads up.......
Thanks! If I’m not mistaken, that is only if you use main studs. I used factory main bolts with the little stud built onto the end only to hold the girdle. It’s not a stud, just a bolt with a stud on the end 👍🏻
Thanks for the video. Looking forward for review follow up on the new head. Honestly its just shameful that the stoker came with the 0331 that everyone is just keen to avoid.. is just wrong in my opinion. Supplier should have just shipped new one to you with a proper head in the first place.
the stock 0331 head does not flow more than the edelbrock head. How ever it can be ported out far greater than the Edelbrock head. Doing so does greatly reduce service life of the head.
@@BRONZE_ROCK Porting has no effect on the longevity of the iron heads when done properly and I didn't say anything about the heads being stock. Those Edelbrock heads have serious design issues. They are very thin and are quick to crack and overheat.
From simply looking at it, there is no way that the 0331 head flows more than the Edelbrock and you are quite literally the FIRST person I have I ever seen say that it has “issues”. I have seen nothing but excellent reviews and have you ever seen and felt the Edelbrock head in person? The deck and just about everything else dwarfs the 0331 head.
@@seahorse5677 yes it does. the amount of material you have to remove to out flow a Edelbrock head is substantial. you reduce the wall thickness near the coolant passages in the head as well as taking about as much as you can away from the valve guides that you can get away with. The 0331 head was not design to have that much structure removed and still live a long service life. And the 0331 heads design issue were from a limited production run in early 2003. which was remedied the mid year model change up. as far as it goes if you need more information please look up newcomer racing and all videos associated with them. they are also very welcoming to talk to on the phone and will answer many questions as well educate you on high horse power builds involving the jeep 4.0
im glad i saw your video cause i almost went with s&j but i have a coworker that ordered a s&j for his ford ranger and nothing but problem from day 1!! rear main seal leak, oil pan and timing chain leak, so the shop that installed it sent it back for the warranty and he's still waiting for the engine to come back.
im glad i saw your video cause i almost went with s&j but i have a coworker that ordered a s&j for his ford ranger and nothing but problem from day 1!! rear main seal leak, oil pan and timing chain leak, so the shop that installed it sent it back for the warranty and he's still waiting for the engine to come back.
Yeah, I am not super impressed at all.
Damn
Making great progress! that Edelbrock head looks nice! And saves 30 pounds. Anxious to see how it performs. Well done!
You and me both!
You were smart by just pulling the engine so you could check it out better. Nice work.
Sure made it a lot easier
Why put stamped rocker arms back in a $1700 head with a LS oversize valve job and some porting???
could you make a tutorial video on how you installed the leather shift boot to the shift bezel.
Good to know concerning the backwards rear seal and head gasket. I also did not reinstall the girdle, but do have the ARP spacer kit, I just didn't feel like fighting the pan more than I already did to clear the oil pump. I'll likely go your route when I do end up pulling the motor out again. Plan for me right now is to have my old head gone through and rebuilt, then I'll yank the motor to do everything. Can't wait to see yours run!
Should be running later this week, working on it slowly. I’ll post a video when it’s finished. Honestly I was super worried about “clearancing” the oil pan but it really doesn’t need to go very far to clear the lowered girdle.
Pretty sure when Power Nation weighed the cast head it came in at like 57 pounds and the Edelbrock was like 35 pounds… huge weight savings.
I know you had some issues with the head but, there is room for improvement with more power in the future, port and polish, bigger valves… so there is that and that would be the time to upgrade your cam & timing set… you’ve got a stock cam in that thing right? May a little better.. ?
I built my own engine and this is a one and done.. so got the big cam and went with all MSD accessories and their Atomic EFI 4 barrel… that’s another upgrade you can do and get more POWAH!
Anyway great video
Nice looking engine 👍
Thanks 👍
I’ve never seen a Main Girdle where the structure was in the middle with tabs going out to the studs like that, but I’ve only worked with them on v8s. IDK really, just wanted to leave you a comment. That motor looks sweet!
It’s what Chrysler came up with so 🤷🏼♂️ Thanks for watching!
man that engine looks good! one word of caution though. It is advised to not switch from main BOLTS to main STUDS withought checking the line hone in the block as the studs CAN distort the bore differently then the bolts. Hopefully not in your case! just a heads up.......
Thanks! If I’m not mistaken, that is only if you use main studs. I used factory main bolts with the little stud built onto the end only to hold the girdle. It’s not a stud, just a bolt with a stud on the end 👍🏻
Thanks for the video. Looking forward for review follow up on the new head. Honestly its just shameful that the stoker came with the 0331 that everyone is just keen to avoid.. is just wrong in my opinion. Supplier should have just shipped new one to you with a proper head in the first place.
ua-cam.com/video/Au29Fl9zC2s/v-deo.htmlsi=UNJlGk1k2u1v1eq_
Looks good now. My god, would have been better to a golen.
Sure would have
Newcomer Racing are the top dogs when it comes to the I6
why would SNJ cheap out on head gasket??
Looks nice. With it torn down to parade rest, did you consider doing a ceramic coating or wrapping the exhaust to help reduce heat / heat soak issues?
Thanks you. Not really worried about wrapping or coating the exhaust.
0331 heads actually flow more and are much stronger than the Edelbrock head
the stock 0331 head does not flow more than the edelbrock head. How ever it can be ported out far greater than the Edelbrock head. Doing so does greatly reduce service life of the head.
@@BRONZE_ROCK Porting has no effect on the longevity of the iron heads when done properly and I didn't say anything about the heads being stock. Those Edelbrock heads have serious design issues. They are very thin and are quick to crack and overheat.
From simply looking at it, there is no way that the 0331 head flows more than the Edelbrock and you are quite literally the FIRST person I have I ever seen say that it has “issues”. I have seen nothing but excellent reviews and have you ever seen and felt the Edelbrock head in person? The deck and just about everything else dwarfs the 0331 head.
@@seahorse5677 yes it does. the amount of material you have to remove to out flow a Edelbrock head is substantial. you reduce the wall thickness near the coolant passages in the head as well as taking about as much as you can away from the valve guides that you can get away with. The 0331 head was not design to have that much structure removed and still live a long service life. And the 0331 heads design issue were from a limited production run in early 2003. which was remedied the mid year model change up. as far as it goes if you need more information please look up newcomer racing and all videos associated with them. they are also very welcoming to talk to on the phone and will answer many questions as well educate you on high horse power builds involving the jeep 4.0
No cam???!!? 🥺 just teasing! Cool update!
Not at the moment, maybe in the future.
What's your deck clearance and quench how thick is that head gasket? over .035 costs
Gasket is .042, everything checks out. I believe the OK range for head gaskets on a 4.0 are .040 to .060.
.p42 is marginally ok if you have 0@@65SEEJAYFIVE
Brown Dog Motor Mounts?
No, thought about it. I’ve heard they cause a lot of NVH.
backwards!? SNJ must be amateurs or something
I said do a golen or nothing sorry you had to learn the same way as my buddy
im glad i saw your video cause i almost went with s&j but i have a coworker that ordered a s&j for his ford ranger and nothing but problem from day 1!! rear main seal leak, oil pan and timing chain leak, so the shop that installed it sent it back for the warranty and he's still waiting for the engine to come back.