0:28 i built a sharpening station. i had a toolbox with two sliding drawers for my sharpening stuff and the box is 26”Lx16”Wx10”T and i got caster wheels for it and a rotating stool seat and then i made a mounting setup for a square milk crate and i found the perfect size pan to put inside of it and then for $8 i got a 50gph fish tank water pump which came with the power supply and the correct size hose and then for $12 i found an electric on/off pedal and then i got a plastic position adjustable water spout and i made a stone holder to fit the crate but the one in the video would probably work. i ordered a lamp with a magnifying glass for it and i’m making a attachable table top for the crate that i can also use as a little shelf or i can store it flat against the back of the toolbox and i have another crate set up for leather working and another crate for cutting slingshot bands and one for gun smithing and my sharpening station rolls and it all fits under my desk. i haven’t seen one like it and it was a project i’m not sure if it was practical or not but it is really a joy to use.
I love my Morihei stones! I am thinking, and I could be wrong, but I wonder if the marks you saw on the back of the 6k were because they intend for us to use the top / front side to sharpen on? I say this because I have similar experiences on other stones, as well as my Morihei's, but the top side, if used, doesn't require any work. Another thing, I have some King Ice Bear stones, and the writing on the back side literally translates to "Do not use this side for sharpening, it is not prepared to use". This makes me thing that most, maybe not all, but most are this way where the top side is their intended side to use so if you use the back, it will need "dressing". I use the back side to preserve the writing and logos on the front because I am weird like that. lol
Nice stones man! I always eagerly wait for your new uploads. But, why change your set up on the sink? It seems sensible to me. With a pond or a bucket/tray, you'll be using the contaminated water from the tray on to the stones, and that in my opinion is unadvisable since you have fresh water on your left in the bucket, it's a very good set up. Maybe cramped but cozy.
Thank you for the input. I have a few ideas, and a few different plastic trays on the way. I take feedback, and i try different things. Tha main thing might be that i dont have to shut off the kitchen every time i want to film :) I do agree with you though. its a nice spot to sharpen, and the perfect hight for me
Short answer is no. The stone would be too fine to remove the material required to make a dull knife sharp. Technically you CAN but it would take ages. If i where to choose only one grit i would go towards 800-1000. That would be coarse enough, if the knife has not got chips or large dents in it. And i would get a leather piece with some polishing compound, for stropping afterwards :)
What do you think about Morihei Hishiboshi 3000 vs Suehiro Ouka 3000 since you try them both. I currently use Suehiro Ouka 3000 and need new 3000 grit Stone. Want to try Morihei but want to hear from someone who have experience with the stone
Sorry for the delay :) the ouka is way softer and faster. The morihei will feel smoother, and by building up somd slurry with an atoma or something similar it will be as smooth as possible. The ouka is great as a step towards higher grits, or as a finisher on softer steel and/or if you want an edge with some bite. Hope that helps you in your choice. Have a great day sir 😀
I have a set of 500, 1k 4k, 9k and 12k. I'd say they are pretty good stones even if not my absolute favourites. I like especially the 4k and up. In prolonged use (or with a helps of nagura or diamond plate) 4k gets nice and muddy unlike other stones. It gets higher rating than others on my list. All are nice, hard in my list and give good feedback. Not a problem with Morihei but quite a few stones really need to have the top ground of with something like 140 Atoma to get the real feel. Some stones change quite a lot once the surface factory layer has been worn out. (I have one artisan stone that needed something like 20+ heavy flattenings to really change the character from non-impressive to very nice).
I totally agree. I tend to bring theese guys out when i do scissors nowadays, and i always lap them with my 140 atoma to work up a slurry. It really does wonders, even on the 1k in my opinion :)
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 I just noticed that up to 4k they are really good with difficult steels like VG-1 or VG10. (on my set) But even there, I find my soaking Suehiros better but not before 4k. But when I need the speed of not soaking, Moriheis are on top of my list. If you have a difficult steel like VG-1 VG10 etc it gets so picky what stone works and what not. (if you exclude diamonds) That being said, Moriheis are one of the best stones I've used, even though they are not my favorite ones for my typical steel grades. They are good, very good when compared to some low grade stones. When you are trying to get the world best one it gets picky, very picky. I've also noted that when years go by, preferences can change. Some stones I did not like way back have got into my current favourites on feedback. It is SO much about preferences that evolvement of technique also changes.
@@hoggif I'm thinking about getting the 4k. But as I love my Naniwa Pro 1k I'm still going back and forth on getting the Pro 3k instead. Any thoughts on that?
@@hello.itsme.5635 I think they are different. Pro 3k is a hard feeling stone that does not get muddy with slurry. Morihei has a softer (but far from soft) feel and it can get (but not always does) get very muddy and slurry. Pro 3k probably gives a similar finish (naniwas are usually finer than other brands at same grit). Depending on steal type they can feel different in speed to. In some difficult steals like VG-1 naniwa is a bit faster but on typical carb on steel there is no signifficant difference. For me it is up to what kind of feedback you like. I find Morihei 4k more plesent but Naniwa 3k pro has a very good feedback too. Whichever you choose, you will not get a bad stone. Both are very good. (For even better I'd go fo soakers like Suehiro Ouka 3k or especially Rika 5k. but those are soft stones and I like that, they are much better for some steals like VG-1 too). For me there is no best stone because it depends on type of steel and sometimes you need fast stone, sometimes you prefer to have not too fast stone.
@@hoggif Thank you very much for all the information. My knives are mostly carbons and some sg2. I'm looking for a s&g every day finisher here to complement the 1k. For kitchen use I prefer 3/4k bite. Whenever I feel like going finer I'll get out my Cerax 5k soaker. So it looks like the Naniwa pro 3k might be the better choice for the sg2 knives. I use them the most atm. It's a pity. There's a voice in my head telling me that I need to try the Morihei 😊
Great review, thanks. It was great to see them in action, I was especially curious about 1k and 12k. I have the Morihei 4k and the 9k karasu. I might get the 1k next sometime. In the 1k range I'm using chosera 800, 1000 as a 2k stone, sometimes shapton kuromaku 2k. Looking for some exotic 1k/2k stone like either this morihei or maybe naniwa green brick of joy. There is a long list of rare japanese whetstone brands to explore like Gesshin in JKI, sigma power, imanishi, the 8 cm wide suehiro debado 1k and 4k, and so on :) and then the bigger rabbit hole, jnat world :)
oof. jeah the JNS. I really dont have the space :P but i have a few jnats, but i tend to use them way to rarely unfortunately. I have just tested a new Naniwa i have stumbeled upon, the Gouken Kuroto, also 1k, but coarser than your regular naniwas. Really fun stone. That video is coming out in a few minutes :)
@@MrUnreal9111 For kitchen knives I'm using 2k shapton to finish on vg10 and some local Turkish slate natural stone for 65hrc aogami super. I think 5k+ synthetic stones somehow have too much abrasion power on the apex that gives a less aggressive edge. However I don't have a straight razor, maybe things are diffetent there since they have their own jig built in (the spine). For the 9k hybrid morihei karasu, it is still as abrasive as fully synthetic stones but also has far better consistency compared to kitayama 8k. So definitely better than kitayama 8k. But I'm more into natural stones because they have mixed grit and less abrasion power. Mixed grit is good for touch ups on knife apexes / microbevels. And low abrasion on higher grit is also good to avoid convexing and dulling the apex when polishing. So if you want a random recommendation you can try some natural slate stones like ILR and cheaper UK ones but it is a little hit and miss in the natural stones of course.
Keep working at the sink if it fits your needs man. Most important thing for us viewers is to see closely what's happening on the stone and to get your experience verbally. Both is great in your vids.
Nice man! thanks for your reviews, they help us who probably wont go out in a crazy buying spree purchasing all the stones in the market to then compare them side by side... Thanks to your reviews and other indications i am about to get some shapton pros, they seem to be the ones with the best aspect between cutting speed, durability, cost, splash and go use, feedback, ability to cut stuff 60hrc+ etc. What would you say about my conclusions?
I agree with your assessment. And you will be very happy with the shaptons I'm shure. Down the line you should also buy an ouka 3k or rika 5k to test soft stones if you havent already :)
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 Great! So, why is it exactly that makes you say that a high quality soft stone is something necessary? Just the way it feels? And on another note, let's suppose I have more softer steels to sharpen than hard ones, are hard stones still that desirable? I am only judging harder stones (the shapton pros in this case) to be desirable because its durability. Is this the case? Are they still going to be durable on softer steels? In short: hard stones vs soft stones for softer steels.
@@Lucas-ck1po soft stones vs hard stones is a mater of feeling, feedback. they usualy dish more quickly, but they usualy are more thick. soft vs hard steel does not matter about the softness or hardness of the stone if you don't matter soaking your stones for 20mn, the Cerax 1000 and rika 5000 ares great for me a very good set of two stones will be the shapton pro 1000 or the naniwa pro 400 (to shoose, wish is about same real grit) for sharpening very doll knifes or light to medium repairs. then the shapton pro 2000 for finishing kitchen knifes is great, can be used for maintaining/sharpening knifes that is not in very bad conditions
Why are people upset about the sink? Isn't that what most people use who don't have a fancy old Japanese vessel/whatever you'd call the bucket system? Supposedly these stones are very nice if you break the surface with another stone/flattening stone. 4000 grit seems to be many people's favourite stone. If you don't count the Karasu 9k that seems to have its own cult following.
The cult following thing is right about so many things. If it works it works :) sharpening equipment is alot about personal preference. But you cant deny that theese stones are silky smooth to work on :)
I reiterate. Please don't change your set up over the sink, there's nothing beating. Besides, you don't have requirement of portability, so this 'is' the best set up. Give it a thought, why are they called Sink Bridges and nothing else? So that they can be mounted on a sink!
0:28 i built a sharpening station. i had a toolbox with two sliding drawers for my sharpening stuff and the box is 26”Lx16”Wx10”T and i got caster wheels for it and a rotating stool seat and then i made a mounting setup for a square milk crate and i found the perfect size pan to put inside of it and then for $8 i got a 50gph fish tank water pump which came with the power supply and the correct size hose and then for $12 i found an electric on/off pedal and then i got a plastic position adjustable water spout and i made a stone holder to fit the crate but the one in the video would probably work. i ordered a lamp with a magnifying glass for it and i’m making a attachable table top for the crate that i can also use as a little shelf or i can store it flat against the back of the toolbox and i have another crate set up for leather working and another crate for cutting slingshot bands and one for gun smithing and my sharpening station rolls and it all fits under my desk. i haven’t seen one like it and it was a project i’m not sure if it was practical or not but it is really a joy to use.
I love my Morihei stones! I am thinking, and I could be wrong, but I wonder if the marks you saw on the back of the 6k were because they intend for us to use the top / front side to sharpen on? I say this because I have similar experiences on other stones, as well as my Morihei's, but the top side, if used, doesn't require any work. Another thing, I have some King Ice Bear stones, and the writing on the back side literally translates to "Do not use this side for sharpening, it is not prepared to use". This makes me thing that most, maybe not all, but most are this way where the top side is their intended side to use so if you use the back, it will need "dressing". I use the back side to preserve the writing and logos on the front because I am weird like that. lol
I sow them too but I said to myself that I have to stop as I have over 100 stones. :)
You kan never have enough stones :P
OMFG!! Same thing happens to me with chef Knives
thanks for the video, awesome knife I must say, it will probably be my next purchase. (maybe the 240 MM)
Sounds like a great plan :) good luck with the purchase, and let me know how you like it :)
Great video although I have never heard of that brand of stones. Where did you get them?
I bought mine through musashi, but im shure there are other sellers out there as well
Have you tried the Masahiro line? They're soaking stones and provide a good slurry. Please try to upload one featuring them if you can.
Nice stones man! I always eagerly wait for your new uploads. But, why change your set up on the sink? It seems sensible to me. With a pond or a bucket/tray, you'll be using the contaminated water from the tray on to the stones, and that in my opinion is unadvisable since you have fresh water on your left in the bucket, it's a very good set up. Maybe cramped but cozy.
Thank you for the input. I have a few ideas, and a few different plastic trays on the way. I take feedback, and i try different things. Tha main thing might be that i dont have to shut off the kitchen every time i want to film :) I do agree with you though. its a nice spot to sharpen, and the perfect hight for me
Hi can you shrapen your knife with only one 5000 grit whetstone ?
Short answer is no. The stone would be too fine to remove the material required to make a dull knife sharp. Technically you CAN but it would take ages. If i where to choose only one grit i would go towards 800-1000. That would be coarse enough, if the knife has not got chips or large dents in it. And i would get a leather piece with some polishing compound, for stropping afterwards :)
Thks for your great advice bro!
What do you think about Morihei Hishiboshi 3000 vs Suehiro Ouka 3000 since you try them both.
I currently use Suehiro Ouka 3000 and need new 3000 grit Stone. Want to try Morihei but want to hear from someone who have experience with the stone
Sorry for the delay :) the ouka is way softer and faster. The morihei will feel smoother, and by building up somd slurry with an atoma or something similar it will be as smooth as possible. The ouka is great as a step towards higher grits, or as a finisher on softer steel and/or if you want an edge with some bite. Hope that helps you in your choice. Have a great day sir 😀
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 thank you
Hi
What WetStone Holder do you use? Do you recommend it ?
nice video Thanks you.
I have a set of 500, 1k 4k, 9k and 12k. I'd say they are pretty good stones even if not my absolute favourites. I like especially the 4k and up. In prolonged use (or with a helps of nagura or diamond plate) 4k gets nice and muddy unlike other stones. It gets higher rating than others on my list. All are nice, hard in my list and give good feedback.
Not a problem with Morihei but quite a few stones really need to have the top ground of with something like 140 Atoma to get the real feel. Some stones change quite a lot once the surface factory layer has been worn out. (I have one artisan stone that needed something like 20+ heavy flattenings to really change the character from non-impressive to very nice).
I totally agree. I tend to bring theese guys out when i do scissors nowadays, and i always lap them with my 140 atoma to work up a slurry. It really does wonders, even on the 1k in my opinion :)
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 I just noticed that up to 4k they are really good with difficult steels like VG-1 or VG10. (on my set) But even there, I find my soaking Suehiros better but not before 4k.
But when I need the speed of not soaking, Moriheis are on top of my list.
If you have a difficult steel like VG-1 VG10 etc it gets so picky what stone works and what not. (if you exclude diamonds)
That being said, Moriheis are one of the best stones I've used, even though they are not my favorite ones for my typical steel grades. They are good, very good when compared to some low grade stones. When you are trying to get the world best one it gets picky, very picky.
I've also noted that when years go by, preferences can change. Some stones I did not like way back have got into my current favourites on feedback. It is SO much about preferences that evolvement of technique also changes.
@@hoggif I'm thinking about getting the 4k. But as I love my Naniwa Pro 1k I'm still going back and forth on getting the Pro 3k instead. Any thoughts on that?
@@hello.itsme.5635 I think they are different. Pro 3k is a hard feeling stone that does not get muddy with slurry. Morihei has a softer (but far from soft) feel and it can get (but not always does) get very muddy and slurry.
Pro 3k probably gives a similar finish (naniwas are usually finer than other brands at same grit). Depending on steal type they can feel different in speed to. In some difficult steals like VG-1 naniwa is a bit faster but on typical carb on steel there is no signifficant difference.
For me it is up to what kind of feedback you like. I find Morihei 4k more plesent but Naniwa 3k pro has a very good feedback too.
Whichever you choose, you will not get a bad stone. Both are very good. (For even better I'd go fo soakers like Suehiro Ouka 3k or especially Rika 5k. but those are soft stones and I like that, they are much better for some steals like VG-1 too).
For me there is no best stone because it depends on type of steel and sometimes you need fast stone, sometimes you prefer to have not too fast stone.
@@hoggif Thank you very much for all the information. My knives are mostly carbons and some sg2. I'm looking for a s&g every day finisher here to complement the 1k. For kitchen use I prefer 3/4k bite.
Whenever I feel like going finer I'll get out my Cerax 5k soaker. So it looks like the Naniwa pro 3k might be the better choice for the sg2 knives. I use them the most atm. It's a pity. There's a voice in my head telling me that I need to try the Morihei 😊
Buen canal, con medios y técnicas de primera, atentamente un saludo
By the way, where can I buy them from?
Musashi. Although there are several other stores as well that sells them.
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 Thanks brother.
Nice sharpening ! What kind of stone do you use to clean the morihei stone ? The small one in the other container
It's called a nagura or dressing stone but I bet you got the info from somewhere already
Great review, thanks. It was great to see them in action, I was especially curious about 1k and 12k. I have the Morihei 4k and the 9k karasu. I might get the 1k next sometime. In the 1k range I'm using chosera 800, 1000 as a 2k stone, sometimes shapton kuromaku 2k. Looking for some exotic 1k/2k stone like either this morihei or maybe naniwa green brick of joy. There is a long list of rare japanese whetstone brands to explore like Gesshin in JKI, sigma power, imanishi, the 8 cm wide suehiro debado 1k and 4k, and so on :) and then the bigger rabbit hole, jnat world :)
oof. jeah the JNS. I really dont have the space :P but i have a few jnats, but i tend to use them way to rarely unfortunately. I have just tested a new Naniwa i have stumbeled upon, the Gouken Kuroto, also 1k, but coarser than your regular naniwas. Really fun stone. That video is coming out in a few minutes :)
How do you like the 9k karasu synthetic? For kitchen knives and/or razors
@@MrUnreal9111 For kitchen knives I'm using 2k shapton to finish on vg10 and some local Turkish slate natural stone for 65hrc aogami super. I think 5k+ synthetic stones somehow have too much abrasion power on the apex that gives a less aggressive edge. However I don't have a straight razor, maybe things are diffetent there since they have their own jig built in (the spine). For the 9k hybrid morihei karasu, it is still as abrasive as fully synthetic stones but also has far better consistency compared to kitayama 8k. So definitely better than kitayama 8k. But I'm more into natural stones because they have mixed grit and less abrasion power. Mixed grit is good for touch ups on knife apexes / microbevels. And low abrasion on higher grit is also good to avoid convexing and dulling the apex when polishing. So if you want a random recommendation you can try some natural slate stones like ILR and cheaper UK ones but it is a little hit and miss in the natural stones of course.
Keep working at the sink if it fits your needs man. Most important thing for us viewers is to see closely what's happening on the stone and to get your experience verbally. Both is great in your vids.
Thanks. I really appreciate the feedback :)
Great stones - I have the one you miss - the 9000#.
What was the knife ?
That's a kiritsuke bunka from musashi :)
Nice man! thanks for your reviews, they help us who probably wont go out in a crazy buying spree purchasing all the stones in the market to then compare them side by side...
Thanks to your reviews and other indications i am about to get some shapton pros, they seem to be the ones with the best aspect between cutting speed, durability, cost, splash and go use, feedback, ability to cut stuff 60hrc+ etc. What would you say about my conclusions?
I agree with your assessment. And you will be very happy with the shaptons I'm shure. Down the line you should also buy an ouka 3k or rika 5k to test soft stones if you havent already :)
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 Great! So, why is it exactly that makes you say that a high quality soft stone is something necessary? Just the way it feels?
And on another note, let's suppose I have more softer steels to sharpen than hard ones, are hard stones still that desirable? I am only judging harder stones (the shapton pros in this case) to be desirable because its durability.
Is this the case? Are they still going to be durable on softer steels?
In short: hard stones vs soft stones for softer steels.
@@Lucas-ck1po
soft stones vs hard stones is a mater of feeling, feedback. they usualy dish more quickly, but they usualy are more thick. soft vs hard steel does not matter about the softness or hardness of the stone
if you don't matter soaking your stones for 20mn, the Cerax 1000 and rika 5000 ares great
for me a very good set of two stones will be the shapton pro 1000 or the naniwa pro 400 (to shoose, wish is about same real grit) for sharpening very doll knifes or light to medium repairs. then the shapton pro 2000 for finishing kitchen knifes is great, can be used for maintaining/sharpening knifes that is not in very bad conditions
Why are people upset about the sink? Isn't that what most people use who don't have a fancy old Japanese vessel/whatever you'd call the bucket system?
Supposedly these stones are very nice if you break the surface with another stone/flattening stone. 4000 grit seems to be many people's favourite stone. If you don't count the Karasu 9k that seems to have its own cult following.
The cult following thing is right about so many things. If it works it works :) sharpening equipment is alot about personal preference. But you cant deny that theese stones are silky smooth to work on :)
Your familey are great .God saves them .
I jiust got it, so I did not tested it so far.
I reiterate. Please don't change your set up over the sink, there's nothing beating. Besides, you don't have requirement of portability, so this 'is' the best set up. Give it a thought, why are they called Sink Bridges and nothing else? So that they can be mounted on a sink!
Did you say "Scheisse"? Lovely haha
its a little more discreet :P hehe
As a German I fully support you in using it frequently!
Use a brick to dull your knives next time, don't ruin those beautiful stones you spend so much money into.
You got to do how you do it. If people are complaining about the sink then they must really want sh*t to complain about in life. Ridiculous