Inverted T-Budding has several advantages over the traditional T-Budding grafting technique which are covered in detail in this video. You can also check the best way of removing a bud along with the best knives to do the job. Graft protection and follow-up will provide a few more tips to succeed with this grafting technique. If you like my work, LIKE, Subscribe, Share the Video and leave a Comment to help me make more.
I have read that in order to activate a dormant bud in a plant , a cut should be made above the bud in order to cut the flow of those hormone that keep the epic supremacy thus keeping the lower budes dormant and helping the top of the plant grow. On this basis, in the inverted T-Budding method will it not make more positive difference if the bottom cut of the Bud bark be flush connected with root-stock bark cut? Also, will a cut made above the bud ensure more success? Response will be appreciated.
Спасибо вам огромное за ваши уроки,они очень помогают начинающим садоводам,таким как я.Очень рада,что нашла вас, замечательный вы учитель и человек!Спасибо!❤
Thank you! This motivates me to graft my peach rootstocks that I haven't grafted this summer. I always want to put your videos in practice after I see them. Thanks to you, I have made dozens of successful grafts ! Especially figs, because for me, you are the expert in fig grafts !
Best videos on any topic he does. So generous, thanks for sharing. So many you will help now and in the future. I have been doing chip-bud grafts all day. Thank you so much.
I live in NZ having moved from the city to a rural area with a small piece of land. We planted a Braeburn apple tree, a Black Doris plum tree and other citrus trees in the spring this year. The apple tree being a late variety started producing a lot of fruit, so I followed your instructions and pruned the tree a little. The plum tree had a lot of buds, but no sign of leaves or fruit. I’m guessing it will fruit in spring or summer next year, so will try to graft that. There’s an old and very overgrown peach tree which was there when we moved, so I’m going to prune that and practise the grafting methods taught in your videos. Thank you for the amazing tips on grafting and pruning. I didn’t have a clue before watching your videos.
Dear, I love gardening but never experienced grafting. You videos motivated me, and I grew rootstock of citrus and mango. I am going to graft on them in the coming spring. I tried air layering in fig and lemon successfully.
With much gratitude i thank you for all your tutorial videos. You clearly are a master of grafting and there are no better videos than yours! With your brilliantly demonstrated techniques. I have been able to make many successful grafts in my food garden. I have been trained through a recognized horticultural college and your videos should be part of any grafting lessons within these "hort" courses! Congratulations and thankyou for sharing your expertise. I truly wish you great health and happiness.
Hi, Keith. I am very glad that my videos helped you in achieving successful grafts. Its a wonderful felling and very rewarding, as I recall from my first attempts. Thanks for the nice comment. I appreciate it.
Out of all the videos I have watched, these are giving me answers to almost all the questions I have in my head. Thank you! Obviously, you know what could be important for a novice like myself... I do not have experience with fruit trees, maybe one day... I started with mulberry trees, and I had success with patch grafting on new (the same year) branches, but I would like to try with either modified cleft or bark grafting, on older branch of the rootstock. I would really enjoy and appreciate a video about that...
As always pedagogical and excellent 👌 Just what I needed since I wondered how to graft peach trees. Whip and tongue didn't work last spring. Big thank you for this video 👍🤗
Thanks for educating us, the garden hobbyists. I read the table of contents above. It is great. However, you can enhance it by adding a chapter on ' Compatibility for grafting of different fruit tree scions and root stock plants indicating combinations of full compatibility, some compatibility and very low or no-compatibility. For more enhancement you can add as to which grafting technique may work good or better for which combination either from your own experience or literature.
Thank you for your video, it will be my first go at grafting, so I appreciate your detailed demonstration and information about the knifes and grafting tape.
I've practiced a little here and there but it doesn't take much to get rusty. I better keep it up or my hands will be as band-aid displays. It looks easy again when I watch your technique. I appreciate the different ways to do grafts. TY .👍
Hi, Darla. You're right. Its important to keep doing a few grafts, so you don't lose the "hand". Muscle memory and knife control have to be trained to avoid cuts. Thanks for the comment.
Dear JSacadura - my grafting mentor, Delighted to watch this video with clear crystal and convincing explanation on the advantages of inverted T-budding; many thanks for sharing your experience and advices to all of us. Keep up the good work and sharing it! I should greatly appreciate it if you could advise on the following issues: 1. At 09:20 of the video, you say that “covering the bud and sometimes even the petiole will help in preventing dehydration and it will give the graft more protection until it heals”. I understand that the petiole is useful in inserting and positioning the bud into the T, isn’t so? can we cut and remove the petiole after inserting the bud? Is there a reason to leave it there? 2. A second question concerning the cambium: When we cut the T on the rootstock and open/lift the bark flaps, does the cambium stay on the rootstock wood or on the bark flaps?
1. It's important to keep the petiole as a visual sign to check for graft success. I demonstrate it at min 2.20 in this video - ua-cam.com/video/yTqO24RfswE/v-deo.html 2. When the sap is flowing and you lift the bark the cambium stays on the rootstock wood. That's why you can bark graft easily, by opening the bark and placing a scion between the bark and the wood. An example, in this video, at min 3.20 - ua-cam.com/video/yTqO24RfswE/v-deo.html Thanks for the comment and the support.
@@JSacadura Thank you very much indeed for your prompt feedback and your clear and comprehensive answers to my questions! Very illustrative examples in the video you referred to, thanks a lot. Keep up the good work!
Me gustó las diferentes formas de hacer los injertos, aunque son comunes pero están bien explicado y fácil de entender. Me gustaría saber si ha utilizado cinta adhesiva diferente al parafin, más económica y que de el mismo resultado en los injertos. Gracias por anticipado. Saludos desde Extremadura
Your videos are so informative and perfect that anyone can learn easily.But one thing I need to know that which month of the year is suitable for grafting.Thank you !
I have the one with the bark lifter on the back of the main blade, and the first time I used it, I pushed the bark lifter in, and it closed the blade (unfortunately into by finger, cutting the crap out of me). Not the only cut I've gotten as a newbie! I keep good bandages in my grafting kit.
A few accidents with the grafting knives (small, if using the right techniques) are almost inevitable when starting to graft. Afterwards, we develop muscle memory and knife control and that stops. I can't remember the last time I suffered a cut when grafting.
I found out It takes exrea steps/ far more work to use T-grafting onto peach trees. The bark does not separate easily/ cleanly like apple tree bark seems to. I have to use a X-acto knife to peal the bark back, then scrape the rest of the bark off the white solid part of the tree before I can put in the scion. It still seems it will likely work. I will see soon.
Olá, Albano. Atenção que os enxertos de outono só vão despertar na próxima primavera. Se possível, é melhor protegê-los bem para suportarem o inverno ou, se os porta-enxertos estiverem em vaso, colocá-los no interior (eu coloco os meus numa estufa improvisada).
Hello! Great videos. I am a bit confused if I can graft apricot into a peach tree and if easly spring is a good season for it. Also which method should I use? Thank you :)
Foarte interesante si pretioase informatii! Pana cand se poate utiliza aceasta metoda de altoire? Daca se poate, as vrea sa stiu ce conditii sunt necesare pentru altoirile tarzii de vara-toamna? Multumesc pentru raspuns!
Here now is mid Spring the temperature is about 14•c and regular strong wind and rain. Can I start now or wait to the right time of North Shore area. I have a citrus tree growing naturally in my back yard had flowers for 3 years but not yet fruits. Check their leaves from the app. Similar as quince or pears. I bought a small green gage plum 2 years ago. Flowers but not fruits either. Can I grafting or budding greengage plum on quince or pear tree.(it quite a hard wood tree) Always enjoyed your, videos the best. Thank you 🤠 Happy feet NZ
If you use grafting techniques that don't require a flow of sap (whip and tongue, modified cleft, etc), the conditions you mention should be ok to graft. Plums are not compatible with quince or pears. Most grafted fruit trees will require more than 2-3 years to start production. Natural growing ones (from seed), might take 7-10 years to produce fruits, depending on the type.
Hi. I m in Auckland. Luckily got Greenguage plum scions from friend. I did the grafting yesterday to get them has more varieties type of flowers for better pollination. (Not enough room for more fruit plants) It s now very wet and windy here. My question is do I have to cover grafted branch with a plastic bag or just let that branch in wet outside the platic wrapped. I m worried about it going to get moldy if I bagged it.
great vidio again many thx which method would you recommend for grafting cornus mas and which period would do best ? many thx and hope to see much more from you
I wonder, if this type of T-budding works as good as the normal version, because you left a gap between the inserted bud and the horizontal cut? In normal T-budding, there is no gap and bud and horizontal cut fit together and can easy grow together.
You can align the bud with the horizontal bud in the inverted t-budding, as you do in the normal t-budding. I left the gap intentionally in some grafts to do a simple test. I aligned them in other grafts, but I failed to include them in the video. The cambium layer is beneath the bark in the rootstock, so it shouldn't matter if you align the base of the bud with the horizontal cut (you tend to do it in the normal t-budding, but it shouldn't be needed for the graft to work). Check this chip/bud grafted in a old grape vine, in the following video - ua-cam.com/video/XHvcreBnQYI/v-deo.html - at min. 12.35 - it doesn't align with anything, just the bud against the cambium layer beneath the bark and it worked fine (as you can see in this video at min. 10.15, since I used it as an example of a bud breaking the Parafilm).
@@JSacadura Thank you for your answer. It would be interesting to see, how fast the wound with gap und the wound align to the bark heal. I had failed bud grafts with my plum tree and these wounds took 2 years to completely close and heal. This is very long and dangerous, having an open bark like this.
@@hanswurst2360 That will happen if the grafts fail and can be concerning in some situations. I will try to post an update on these grafts, next spring.
As soon as the rootstock start leaving dormancy. There's not much point in doing it before as the grafts will only start to heal properly when the sap starts to flow and there is a potential for frost damage.
Hello, Can I use this technique in the spring, or it is for the end of summer? Could you give me the link of the Grafting Tape model you used? THANKS A LOT !!!
The trees should be in full flow of sap, so spring or summer, will do. You can even use it in the fall, as long as you protect the young grafts, during the winter. The tape used is Parafilm Grafting Tape.
@@JSacadura Sleeping bud in the spring? or not sleeping ? I will start to graft for my first year and thank you for your chain very informative! I learned a lot because of you :) Merci (in french)
Usually, it takes at least 2 to 3 weeks for the buds to start growing, even in the best conditions. The petiole should fall after 10-12 days. It's a good indication that the graft is successful.
Hello sir my name is Mateen arslan and I am from Pakistan . I must say your videos are very informative …but I need to ask you a question … I have a mango and a guava tree in my house and I want to graft these trees with other fruit species like malbarry , Fik etc.. and it’s failing … need your help here … is it even possible .
Usually only after 2 or 3 years. Its important to allow time for branch growth and for the development of a solid structure capable of supporting the weight of the fruits.
Inverted T-Budding has several advantages over the traditional T-Budding grafting technique which are covered in detail in this video. You can also check the best way of removing a bud along with the best knives to do the job. Graft protection and follow-up will provide a few more tips to succeed with this grafting technique.
If you like my work, LIKE, Subscribe, Share the Video and leave a Comment to help me make more.
When you look some things up can they be grafted? Like this....
(lantana is a genus of about 150 species....
can they all be grafted together?)
I have read that in order to activate a dormant bud in a plant , a cut should be made above the bud in order to cut the flow of those hormone that keep the epic supremacy thus keeping the lower budes dormant and helping the top of the plant grow.
On this basis, in the inverted T-Budding method will it not make more positive difference if the bottom cut of the Bud bark be flush connected with root-stock bark cut? Also, will a cut made above the bud ensure more success?
Response will be appreciated.
@@rishtunkhwa8990 i wound love to the results of such as you say Rishtun!
Do you have a book? Or recommend any?
But there are chances that it would be converted to a fruit bud instead of a branch.
Спасибо вам огромное за ваши уроки,они очень помогают начинающим садоводам,таким как я.Очень рада,что нашла вас, замечательный вы учитель и человек!Спасибо!❤
Thank you! This motivates me to graft my peach rootstocks that I haven't grafted this summer. I always want to put your videos in practice after I see them. Thanks to you, I have made dozens of successful grafts ! Especially figs, because for me, you are the expert in fig grafts !
I'm glad my videos were useful. Good luck with your grafts!
Best videos on any topic he does. So generous, thanks for sharing. So many you will help now and in the future.
I have been doing chip-bud grafts all day.
Thank you so much.
I live in NZ having moved from the city to a rural area with a small piece of land. We planted a Braeburn apple tree, a Black Doris plum tree and other citrus trees in the spring this year. The apple tree being a late variety started producing a lot of fruit, so I followed your instructions and pruned the tree a little. The plum tree had a lot of buds, but no sign of leaves or fruit. I’m guessing it will fruit in spring or summer next year, so will try to graft that. There’s an old and very overgrown peach tree which was there when we moved, so I’m going to prune that and practise the grafting methods taught in your videos. Thank you for the amazing tips on grafting and pruning. I didn’t have a clue before watching your videos.
Dear, I love gardening but never experienced grafting. You videos motivated me, and I grew rootstock of citrus and mango. I am going to graft on them in the coming spring. I tried air layering in fig and lemon successfully.
With much gratitude i thank you for all your tutorial videos. You clearly are a master of grafting and there are no better videos than yours! With your brilliantly demonstrated techniques. I have been able to make many successful grafts in my food garden. I have been trained through a recognized horticultural college and your videos should be part of any grafting lessons within these "hort" courses! Congratulations and thankyou for sharing your expertise. I truly wish you great health and happiness.
Hi, Keith. I am very glad that my videos helped you in achieving successful grafts. Its a wonderful felling and very rewarding, as I recall from my first attempts. Thanks for the nice comment. I appreciate it.
Excellent video with very clear up close zoom ins, thank you so much.
Out of all the videos I have watched, these are giving me answers to almost all the questions I have in my head. Thank you! Obviously, you know what could be important for a novice like myself... I do not have experience with fruit trees, maybe one day... I started with mulberry trees, and I had success with patch grafting on new (the same year) branches, but I would like to try with either modified cleft or bark grafting, on older branch of the rootstock. I would really enjoy and appreciate a video about that...
Such a helpful video, thanks so much for making this! Really appreciate the close-up photography!
Your work and explanations are very clear. I especially like the great close - ups.
Nice example. I like how the rainwater is removed automatically giving the best chance of success.
That's one of the main advantages. Thanks for the comment.
As always pedagogical and excellent 👌 Just what I needed since I wondered how to graft peach trees. Whip and tongue didn't work last spring. Big thank you for this video 👍🤗
Thanks for educating us, the garden hobbyists. I read the table of contents above. It is great. However, you can enhance it by adding a chapter on ' Compatibility for grafting of different fruit tree scions and root stock plants indicating combinations of full compatibility, some compatibility and very low or no-compatibility. For more enhancement you can add as to which grafting technique may work good or better for which combination either from your own experience or literature.
Thank you for your video, it will be my first go at grafting, so I appreciate your detailed demonstration and information about the knifes and grafting tape.
Excellent work and always love to watch.... Thanks alot
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the comment.
Amazing work. Hope you are publishing? I like the way your lessons come together across your videos.
Inspiring, sebuah gagasan kreatif teknik okulasi yg berbeda dr yg sdah pernah ada. Terima kasih banyak ide yg kreatif.
always a plasure watching your videos
Glad you enjoy them! Thanks for the nice comment.
Como siempre los mejores videos maestro gracias por compartir sus conocimientos.
Beautifully and clearly explained complete grafting method 👍
I've practiced a little here and there but it doesn't take much to get rusty. I better keep it up or my hands will be as band-aid displays. It looks easy again when I watch your technique. I appreciate the different ways to do grafts. TY .👍
Hi, Darla. You're right. Its important to keep doing a few grafts, so you don't lose the "hand". Muscle memory and knife control have to be trained to avoid cuts. Thanks for the comment.
@@JSacadura You're welcome.
Amazing video, very easy to follow!
Ciao.. Good job !!! complimenti per i tuoi video molto professionali !!!
I am from pakistan. I think inverted T budding is best method you have shown. Thanks for this information.
Very sharp blade.
teknik ini saya sangat suka, angka kehidupannya sangat tinggi dann mudah sekali melakukannya, salam sukses
It is, as always, very informative. Love your videos...
Glad you like them! Thanks for the comment.
Отличное видео!
Adoro os teus vídeos, passo horas a ver sempre os mesmos video e sinto me relaxado ...
Parabéns
Sempre às ordens😊. Obrigado pelo comentário.
Thank you so much for all useful tips 💚
Nice demo. Thanks. I'm going to shop for a knife and that grafting tape to try this technique this weekend.
Thank you dear friend.very useful informations.👍
you have extraordinary talent, your skills are very good and want to share with all of your friends. good luck always thank you
Great vid!
Muy buena explicación gracias por compartir sus conocimientos👍👍👍👍
Wow, acabei de descobrir este excelente canal, vi as paisagens e vi logo que era Portugal, nada é igual! Obrigado, vou ver muitos vídeos...
Dear JSacadura - my grafting mentor,
Delighted to watch this video with clear crystal and convincing explanation on the advantages of inverted T-budding; many thanks for sharing your experience and advices to all of us. Keep up the good work and sharing it!
I should greatly appreciate it if you could advise on the following issues:
1. At 09:20 of the video, you say that “covering the bud and sometimes even the petiole will help in preventing dehydration and it will give the graft more protection until it heals”. I understand that the petiole is useful in inserting and positioning the bud into the T, isn’t so? can we cut and remove the petiole after inserting the bud? Is there a reason to leave it there?
2. A second question concerning the cambium: When we cut the T on the rootstock and open/lift the bark flaps, does the cambium stay on the rootstock wood or on the bark flaps?
1. It's important to keep the petiole as a visual sign to check for graft success. I demonstrate it at min 2.20 in this video - ua-cam.com/video/yTqO24RfswE/v-deo.html
2. When the sap is flowing and you lift the bark the cambium stays on the rootstock wood. That's why you can bark graft easily, by opening the bark and placing a scion between the bark and the wood. An example, in this video, at min 3.20 - ua-cam.com/video/yTqO24RfswE/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment and the support.
@@JSacadura Thank you very much indeed for your prompt feedback and your clear and comprehensive answers to my questions! Very illustrative examples in the video you referred to, thanks a lot. Keep up the good work!
Thank you
Great job, thanks
Beautifully demonstrated. Many thanks :-)
Спасибо,было интересно.
Thanks.
Very informative content, LOVE from GUJAR KHAN, PAKISTAN!
Me gustó las diferentes formas de hacer los injertos, aunque son comunes pero están bien explicado y fácil de entender. Me gustaría saber si ha utilizado cinta adhesiva diferente al parafin, más económica y que de el mismo resultado en los injertos. Gracias por anticipado. Saludos desde Extremadura
You are the best ❤️❤️❤️
Thank you!
Amazing work
Another excellent video! 📌
Like always very nice and informative video.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the nice comment.
so helpful!!! Thank you so much!!
Your videos are brilliant, I am subscriber of your channel,
Please make video on Rose grafting and Budding.
Wow.... new video
Μπράβο, τέλειο βίντεο..
Thanks for the comment.
Thank u. Good info
Amazing and very useful content all the time. Subscribed.
Thankyou for the sharing sir 🌳🌲🌲 ,,
Very important.
Your videos are so informative and perfect that anyone can learn easily.But one thing I need to know that which month of the year is suitable for grafting.Thank you !
Спасибо.
Thank you for sharing..nice method for crafting
Gracias
Tank you
The best
Thanks for info 👍👍
good and informative.
I have the one with the bark lifter on the back of the main blade, and the first time I used it, I pushed the bark lifter in, and it closed the blade (unfortunately into by finger, cutting the crap out of me). Not the only cut I've gotten as a newbie! I keep good bandages in my grafting kit.
A few accidents with the grafting knives (small, if using the right techniques) are almost inevitable when starting to graft. Afterwards, we develop muscle memory and knife control and that stops. I can't remember the last time I suffered a cut when grafting.
hola buen video, se podrá hacer en citricos ahora Cantabria norte de España? un saludo
Hola a lo que he visto, si de igual modo en cítricos. Saludos desde Lázaro Cárdenas Michoacán México.
I found out It takes exrea steps/ far more work to use T-grafting onto peach trees. The bark does not separate easily/ cleanly like apple tree bark seems to. I have to use a X-acto knife to peal the bark back, then scrape the rest of the bark off the white solid part of the tree before I can put in the scion. It still seems it will likely work.
I will see soon.
Olá Jaime espero que esteja tudo bem consigo, video muito interessante (enxertos de outono) , vou experimentar, Um grande abraço.
Olá, Albano. Atenção que os enxertos de outono só vão despertar na próxima primavera. Se possível, é melhor protegê-los bem para suportarem o inverno ou, se os porta-enxertos estiverem em vaso, colocá-los no interior (eu coloco os meus numa estufa improvisada).
@@JSacadura ok
bravo
তোমার ভিডিও গুলো আমি বাংলা দেশ থেকে দেখি,,
খুব ভালো লাগে।
দুঃখের বিষয় ইংরাজীতে
তোমাকে কিছু লিখতে পারিনা
পারল কোন ভাবে পড়ে নিও।
Тоже так попробую!
Thanks boss
Hello! Great videos. I am a bit confused if I can graft apricot into a peach tree and if easly spring is a good season for it. Also which method should I use? Thank you :)
Sir IAM from Pakistan I really enjoy your videos .. sir I have tree orchard . So can I do T budding grafting in June/July
Very nice and useful video.
Thank you very much.
What is the earliest time to do T grafting after winter. I am in Jordan, middle east.
I would wait until the sap if in full flow. For this type of budding grafts the bark must be slipping, so they usually don't work in the winter.
*Just spend 1 minute to read this channel's description.*
Foarte interesante si pretioase informatii! Pana cand se poate utiliza aceasta metoda de altoire? Daca se poate, as vrea sa stiu ce conditii sunt necesare pentru altoirile tarzii de vara-toamna? Multumesc pentru raspuns!
Here now is mid Spring the temperature is about 14•c and regular strong wind and rain. Can I start now or wait to the right time of North Shore area.
I have a citrus tree growing naturally in my back yard had flowers for 3 years but not yet fruits. Check their leaves from the app. Similar as quince or pears. I bought a small green gage plum 2 years ago. Flowers but not fruits either. Can I grafting or budding greengage plum on quince or pear tree.(it quite a hard wood tree) Always enjoyed your, videos the best.
Thank you
🤠 Happy feet NZ
If you use grafting techniques that don't require a flow of sap (whip and tongue, modified cleft, etc), the conditions you mention should be ok to graft. Plums are not compatible with quince or pears. Most grafted fruit trees will require more than 2-3 years to start production. Natural growing ones (from seed), might take 7-10 years to produce fruits, depending on the type.
Hi. I m in Auckland. Luckily got Greenguage plum scions from friend.
I did the grafting yesterday to get them has more varieties type of flowers for better pollination. (Not enough room for more fruit plants)
It s now very wet and windy here. My question is do I have to cover grafted branch with a plastic bag or just let that branch in wet outside the platic wrapped.
I m worried about it going to get moldy if I bagged it.
Please tell me if can graft an air layering mango tree with one week done thank you sinserely mr Reyes from puerto Rico oh by the way nice video .
Your video looks good and the background is blurry. what do you use?
Like86,nice video
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks sir. -Rajesh S Moses. [Can you teach us Rose chip and T budding.]
great vidio again many thx which method would you recommend for grafting cornus mas and which period would do best ? many thx and hope to see much more from you
Fantastico work. Very nice demostration. I wander from where you buy the paraffin tape? Any internet site?
Does the cross cut of the inverted "T" sever the cambium continuity up into the bud contact area?
I wonder, if this type of T-budding works as good as the normal version, because you left a gap between the inserted bud and the horizontal cut? In normal T-budding, there is no gap and bud and horizontal cut fit together and can easy grow together.
You can align the bud with the horizontal bud in the inverted t-budding, as you do in the normal t-budding. I left the gap intentionally in some grafts to do a simple test. I aligned them in other grafts, but I failed to include them in the video. The cambium layer is beneath the bark in the rootstock, so it shouldn't matter if you align the base of the bud with the horizontal cut (you tend to do it in the normal t-budding, but it shouldn't be needed for the graft to work). Check this chip/bud grafted in a old grape vine, in the following video - ua-cam.com/video/XHvcreBnQYI/v-deo.html - at min. 12.35 - it doesn't align with anything, just the bud against the cambium layer beneath the bark and it worked fine (as you can see in this video at min. 10.15, since I used it as an example of a bud breaking the Parafilm).
@@JSacadura Thank you for your answer. It would be interesting to see, how fast the wound with gap und the wound align to the bark heal. I had failed bud grafts with my plum tree and these wounds took 2 years to completely close and heal. This is very long and dangerous, having an open bark like this.
@@hanswurst2360 That will happen if the grafts fail and can be concerning in some situations. I will try to post an update on these grafts, next spring.
Are you using 1" or 1/2" parafilm? It looks like 1", which I would prefer, but that is harder for me to source at a good price.
I prefer the 1'' parafilm.
Do you have any recommendations for grafting tape ?
Which month of the year
can I start grafting apple and pear trees. I live in Canada
As soon as the rootstock start leaving dormancy. There's not much point in doing it before as the grafts will only start to heal properly when the sap starts to flow and there is a potential for frost damage.
after what time do you have to remove the foils? [po jakim czasie trzeba zdjac folie?]
What are grafting results for modified cleft grafting peaches? Why does everyone say to use this technique for peaches?
They are quite good. Cleft, modified cleft, whip and tongue - they all work well. If the rootstock is older use the bark graft.
Здравствуйте скажите пожалуйста черенки которые уже с корнями тоже нужно прививать или нет благодарю за ответ
Hello, Can I use this technique in the spring, or it is for the end of summer? Could you give me the link of the Grafting Tape model you used? THANKS A LOT !!!
The trees should be in full flow of sap, so spring or summer, will do. You can even use it in the fall, as long as you protect the young grafts, during the winter.
The tape used is Parafilm Grafting Tape.
@@JSacadura Sleeping bud in the spring? or not sleeping ?
I will start to graft for my first year and thank you for your chain very informative!
I learned a lot because of you :)
Merci (in french)
I tried to graf but flailed many times. For Asian pear which grating is the best for the beginners ?
Hi, what is the name of the black adhesive tape that you are using. I can't find it anywhere.
After how many days we should uncover the bud?
Usually, it takes at least 2 to 3 weeks for the buds to start growing, even in the best conditions. The petiole should fall after 10-12 days. It's a good indication that the graft is successful.
Hello sir my name is Mateen arslan and I am from Pakistan . I must say your videos are very informative …but I need to ask you a question … I have a mango and a guava tree in my house and I want to graft these trees with other fruit species like malbarry , Fik etc.. and it’s failing … need your help here … is it even possible .
How long will it take to start fruiting?
Usually only after 2 or 3 years. Its important to allow time for branch growth and for the development of a solid structure capable of supporting the weight of the fruits.