Nice to see a real carpenter/shop in action when youtube is flooded with the all of these made-for-tv carpenters... This is how a real shop operates! When i make drawers I like to use the pre-made sides that are available from my supplier, they are rips of baltic birch that have a radius routed onto the edges and have a finish applied. Then you rip/cut/dado them to your project. Since I am really weird about nail holes in the sides, I end up biscuiting and gluing the corners and I have to say its make a nice and strong joint (albeit time consuming). I never considered putting them together like you did, with ripping part of the back off so that you can slide in the panel. This is actually a great idea and would save the step of having to notch for the undermount style of guides. I might try this in the future! I think that having the staples is also another benefit, my panels are usually "loose" and I will add a bead of adhesive (PL or something) to them if I feel like it. Great content! Thanks
New to this. Studying from my UA-cam teachers. This is indeed very simple and looks very strong, BUT, everybody else glues the joints no mater how they join them. I think you only glued the bottom front groove. You are the expert, do you mind explaining your thoughts on this? I am on my third set of drawers using the 1/4, 1/4, 1/4 technique, the 1/2 technique, and the pocket hole technique. I messed up everytime. Mostly on my width. I have also tried 1/2 ply. and 3/4 ply. I FINALLY think I got it then I see your video. I guess I am over thinking this. Thanks!
Bruce...for ease and speed of production I don't glue my corners, although many do. In all the years that I have made drawers this way with this material I have never had to remake or repair a drawer because the corners didn't hold together. It's an added step that I consider optional. The 5/8" baltic birch is an excellent drawer material and once nailed together makes an extremely strong drawer. I hope this helps...good luck Wes
Wes, great video. I made my first drawer yesterday with half dovetails. It came out good, but you are so much more efficient and get a nice strong drawer. You have become my Utube teacher. Thanks for sharing your woodworking skills. Gene
What is the freakiest accident that could happen you never thought might happen that would take a 1/4 slice out of his entire hand as it guides the wood over the spinning blade. Well that is Murphy's Law and why temp it. Use a push block stay safe always, just like always wear eye protection no matter what.
I'm on my 3rd set of drawers. Been using rabbet joins and glue, but man that is hard, considering I only have an old circular saw and trimmer. May be I should try like you, only butt joints. Maybe investing in a table saw too.
Thanks for the video. I am new to drawer construction and this helps. How much weight can that 1/4” bottom handle? One of my drawers is 30”W x 22”D and needs to have heavy things like skillet or crockpot. Would you ever dato or rabbit in a 1/2 bottom for more strength. (I may be over thinking here. All the best from north Texas.
The answer you seek is in the instructions for your chosen drawer slides. For Blum’s TANDEM slides, for example, the inside drawer width needs to be cabinet opening minus 1 21/32”, so assuming 1/2” material for the drawer sides, the outside drawer width is that number plus 1”.
Great video! I was wondering what other plywood would be good for drawers? You mentioned 5' x 5' 5/8 Baltic Birch but I can't find that at the local big box stores. Looking at the date of this video I think baltic birch is NOW in low supply in the US. Most plywood now have a very thin veneer on each side? I don't want to spend a fortune. Any suggestions appreciated. Thank you.
Hi...as supply chains have become an issue, baltic birch is hard to come by for sure. In my latest video, I use solid, 5/8" poplar for my drawers as an alternative and it works great. Thanks for watching, Wes
Hi Wes, love your videos, great content and well explained , what saw blade do you typically use on your table saw and do you have a sliding panel saw with scribing blade for melamine carcases.
Hi Alan...for cutting plywoods, such as the drawer material, I use a 60 tooth blade. For melamine, I use an 80 tooth triple chip blade. I wish I had a sliding table saw, that would be nice! Thanks for watching Wes
Please tell me where I can get the plywoods you are using. I am remodeling my kitchen soon. I was just going to make new custom doors and drawer fronts but I’d really like to build all new cabinets and drawers. Your work is amazing.
The drawer material I use is 5/8" baltic burch. However, with supply chain issues, it is currently hard to come by and so I started using solid 5/8" thick poplar. Thanks for watching. Wes
Hi...drawers are typically sized based on the hardware used as drawer slides. You probably have wooden slides in your antique piece. Based on that, make your drawer 1/8" smaller than your opening and test that to see if it works. You might have to apply some wax to the drawer and runners to help them slide smoothly. Hope this helps. Wes
Supply chain issues have made it hard to find baltic birch, for me as well. I have started to use solid 5/8" material when I can not get it. Thanks, Wes
Dovetailing makes a great drawer but is NOT always in everyones budget. Just so you know, I never had to remake a drawer with the butt joint construction method. Wes
Their was a push or incentive in The US in the mid 1990s to convert to metric, turned out it was plain and simple to Expensive to change all the manufacturing machines, the weight and capacity standards, the road builders had a huge push back against converting or replacing their equipment with metric. The short pushing the 1900's for America to adopt metric was a Complete Waste of Money, the program was abandoned after a 4 or 5 year "pilot program". Thanks for the drawer construction video, like this method, will be reviewing video again when I do drawer build.
Serious how can you spend all this good material and charge customers a lot by making a drawer that will fall apart in few year….. bad joint don’t buy that guys and girls, look for drawers that is made at least with pocket screws or lock joint, nails don’t hold the joints in the long run.
Wasted a beautiful piece of baltic birch with poor design for a simple draw. Didn't even glue the sides. This draw will be falling apart over time. Don't ever do your draws like this. This is a video on how not to make a simple draw. And don't use beautiful baltic birch to make a simple draw.
We use alot of maple but we don't do draws with quater inch bottoms it's 5/8 draws with 1/2 inch bottoms we only do high end and every draw is dove.tailed and glued not.a single.nail
Ah jeez Wes, use a pushstick 😟 07:12
Yeah, he seems to be counting on his Sawstop to save his fingers..
A push block is way cheaper than a sawstop brake
Nice to see a real carpenter/shop in action when youtube is flooded with the all of these made-for-tv carpenters... This is how a real shop operates! When i make drawers I like to use the pre-made sides that are available from my supplier, they are rips of baltic birch that have a radius routed onto the edges and have a finish applied. Then you rip/cut/dado them to your project. Since I am really weird about nail holes in the sides, I end up biscuiting and gluing the corners and I have to say its make a nice and strong joint (albeit time consuming). I never considered putting them together like you did, with ripping part of the back off so that you can slide in the panel. This is actually a great idea and would save the step of having to notch for the undermount style of guides. I might try this in the future! I think that having the staples is also another benefit, my panels are usually "loose" and I will add a bead of adhesive (PL or something) to them if I feel like it. Great content! Thanks
Thank you very much!! I really appreciate your comment. Wes
And I have rebuilt countless drawers when they are built like this.
I like your your video and drawer method however, i would recommend safety tools for using your router table please.
I like this method. My last couple times building draws was so complicated and I just couldn’t get them perfect. I will use this method next time.
Great...glad you enjoyed the video. Wes
New to this. Studying from my UA-cam teachers. This is indeed very simple and looks very strong, BUT, everybody else glues the joints no mater how they join them. I think you only glued the bottom front groove. You are the expert, do you mind explaining your thoughts on this? I am on my third set of drawers using the 1/4, 1/4, 1/4 technique, the 1/2 technique, and the pocket hole technique. I messed up everytime. Mostly on my width. I have also tried 1/2 ply. and 3/4 ply. I FINALLY think I got it then I see your video. I guess I am over thinking this. Thanks!
Bruce...for ease and speed of production I don't glue my corners, although many do. In all the years that I have made drawers this way with this material I have never had to remake or repair a drawer because the corners didn't hold together. It's an added step that I consider optional. The 5/8" baltic birch is an excellent drawer material and once nailed together makes an extremely strong drawer. I hope this helps...good luck Wes
Worked great, drawers feel more than strong enough for desk drawers.
Yes they are....thanks for the visit! Wes
I’m getting ready to tackle a pantry, I’d love to see the method you use to install the slide out rails.
Derek...we do have a video that shows how to install the drawer slides for roll out shelves on our channel. Hope this helps. Thanks, Wes
Love watching your videos. Learnt a lot!
Thank you! So glad you find value in my videos. Let me know if there is anything you would like to see built.
Wes, great video. I made my first drawer yesterday with half dovetails. It came out good, but you are so much more efficient and get a nice strong drawer. You have become my Utube teacher. Thanks for sharing your woodworking skills. Gene
Good job 100 /100
What is the freakiest accident that could happen you never thought might happen that would take a 1/4 slice out of his entire hand as it guides the wood over the spinning blade. Well that is Murphy's Law and why temp it. Use a push block stay safe always, just like always wear eye protection no matter what.
Thanks, great education
I'm on my 3rd set of drawers. Been using rabbet joins and glue, but man that is hard, considering I only have an old circular saw and trimmer. May be I should try like you, only butt joints. Maybe investing in a table saw too.
Thanks for the video. I am new to drawer construction and this helps. How much weight can that 1/4” bottom handle? One of my drawers is 30”W x 22”D and needs to have heavy things like skillet or crockpot. Would you ever dato or rabbit in a 1/2 bottom for more strength. (I may be over thinking here. All the best from north Texas.
Yes...I have put in 1/2" bottom when needed for extra heavy use. Hope this helps, good luck! Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWesthanks. I am going to be using birch.
Fully enjoyed that Wes 😊 Thank you for sharing it 😊 ॐ
Thank you for visiting...I really appreciate your support!
How much do I need to subtract from the cabinet opening ( width) great video!!❤
The answer you seek is in the instructions for your chosen drawer slides. For Blum’s TANDEM slides, for example, the inside drawer width needs to be cabinet opening minus 1 21/32”, so assuming 1/2” material for the drawer sides, the outside drawer width is that number plus 1”.
Great video! I was wondering what other plywood would be good for drawers? You mentioned 5' x 5' 5/8 Baltic Birch but I can't find that at the local big box stores. Looking at the date of this video I think baltic birch is NOW in low supply in the US. Most plywood now have a very thin veneer on each side? I don't want to spend a fortune. Any suggestions appreciated. Thank you.
Hi...as supply chains have become an issue, baltic birch is hard to come by for sure. In my latest video, I use solid, 5/8" poplar for my drawers as an alternative and it works great. Thanks for watching, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes Thanks for the update / tip. I will see if my local stores are carrying poplar and the condition of their stock. Thanks again!
Nice video. I do wonder why you used no glue on the joints, won't it loosen up over time with use?
I have never had that problem...it works great for me. Thanks for watching, Wes
What about sealing the edges of the plywood? Brush on poly?
Either would work. Thanks for the visit, Wes
Hi Wes, love your videos, great content and well explained , what saw blade do you typically use on your table saw and do you have a sliding panel saw with scribing blade for melamine carcases.
Hi Alan...for cutting plywoods, such as the drawer material, I use a 60 tooth blade.
For melamine, I use an 80 tooth triple chip blade. I wish I had a sliding table saw, that would be nice! Thanks for watching Wes
Please tell me where I can get the plywoods you are using. I am remodeling my kitchen soon. I was just going to make new custom doors and drawer fronts but I’d really like to build all new cabinets and drawers. Your work is amazing.
The drawer material I use is 5/8" baltic burch. However, with supply chain issues, it is currently hard to come by and so I started using solid 5/8" thick poplar. Thanks for watching. Wes
Baltic birch is manufactured in metric.
I make no complaints sir
You did just fine
But safety is very important
Kickback can put a eye out
Keep fingers away from moving blade
Way to close
Do you ever use glue to reinforce the sides?
No...I have found this construction method to be very durable and have never had to replace or repair due to joint failure. Thanks for watching, Wes
How do I measure drawers for a Antique desk - which is missing all the old drawers?
Hi...drawers are typically sized based on the hardware used as drawer slides. You probably have wooden slides in your antique piece. Based on that, make your drawer 1/8" smaller than your opening and test that to see if it works. You might have to apply some wax to the drawer and runners to help them slide smoothly. Hope this helps. Wes
my GOD!!
Whats is the bottom material?
It is 1/4" maple grained melamine. Thanks for watching, Wes
what to do with out Baltic ply, it is not available, so the process is more difficult
Supply chain issues have made it hard to find baltic birch, for me as well. I have started to use solid 5/8" material when I can not get it. Thanks, Wes
I think that's supposed to be 14 15/16??
Nice video dovetail would look better
Thank you. I appreciate your comment. When the client makes that request and is willing to pay for dovetail we certainly will do it.
What do you say to the people who think if its not dovetailed, its not quality? anybody have an answer.
Dovetailing makes a great drawer but is NOT always in everyones budget. Just so you know, I never had to remake a drawer with the butt joint construction method. Wes
Not the strongest of joints, locking rabbit or even pocket screws would be stronger than glue and nails.
My wife and I raised four children in a house with nailed drawers with never the slightest separation... 35 years!
Inches are nuts
because it's 15mm not 5/8", why doesn't america want to join 2022 and stays back in 1950
Their was a push or incentive in The US in the mid 1990s to convert to metric, turned out it was plain and simple to Expensive to change all the manufacturing machines, the weight and capacity standards, the road builders had a huge push back against converting or replacing their equipment with metric. The short pushing the 1900's for America to adopt metric was a Complete Waste of Money, the program was abandoned after a 4 or 5 year "pilot program". Thanks for the drawer construction video, like this method, will be reviewing video again when I do drawer build.
Because a mm is your smallest unit of measurement. The dumbest thing I ever used was a metric micrometer in my machine shop.
@@sawhill729 LOL how do you think machining is done in the rest of the world? LOL honestly.
Sad that the US uses inches…
Serious how can you spend all this good material and charge customers a lot by making a drawer that will fall apart in few year….. bad joint don’t buy that guys and girls, look for drawers that is made at least with pocket screws or lock joint, nails don’t hold the joints in the long run.
Wasted a beautiful piece of baltic birch with poor design for a simple draw. Didn't even glue the sides. This draw will be falling apart over time. Don't ever do your draws like this. This is a video on how not to make a simple draw. And don't use beautiful baltic birch to make a simple draw.
Perhaps saving the glue to reattach his finners?
We use alot of maple but we don't do draws with quater inch bottoms it's 5/8 draws with 1/2 inch bottoms we only do high end and every draw is dove.tailed and glued not.a single.nail