The back panel - I think that was for racing as a cutoff switch. The traction bars add to my guess this car has some racing history. In any event - glad this car is in good hands, thanks for sharing! ~ Chuck
Try using COOPER's STRIPPER from NEW ZEALAND (they ship FREE from NZ to USA) on the panels before using the DA to provide a key. The COOPER's is nothing like the messy so-called "aircraft" paint stripper. Once you use it, you will never look at the other type of paint strippers ever again. SO easy to use and super effective. That rear hole may have been a battery disconnect switch if the car was ever used at a track.
Good analysis… I learned a thing or two and I’ve completed a frame off on my 1968 firebird. Just bought someone else’s incomplete 1966 mustang fastback project with the body on the rotisserie and in primer. I’ve still got to do all the panels and finish the fender flares that they started. After watching your overview, I would definitely trust you with my car (I couldn’t afford you, but I could trust the work…lol)
Thanks for the positive feedback! There is always more to learn on these things. Details matter, for sure! Best of luck on the Mustang, we'd be happy to see it progress! Thanks again!
6:50 I think that is a hole for a trailer plug receptacle. Judging by the gas welding/braising I think the quarter was replaced a long time ago and was considered a fairly decent repair back when this was just a used car.
Steve, you could be right but it seems small for a trailer plug 4-pin connector. But who knows? These cars are archaeological expeditions in many ways. We agree the brazing was the way things were often times done, but it appears to have been a rust repair on both sides of the car. So did this one rust quickly requiring quarter skins long ago? Or is this more recent? We'll never know... thanks for the feedback!
Tat is a great question. We spend lots of time turning the vehicle over on the rotisserie and blowing compressed air and vacuuming the crevices. In this case, the car body was also going to be largely disassembled, so much was blown out at that point.
@@V8TV Thanks. There are just so many places between sheet metal features on these cars that would be very difficult to remove all the debris. I hate the thought of any being left behind for some reason.
That car has been changed from factory specs say to Pilot error and then the local high school auto shop practiced welding or the blacksmith has poor vision. But hey it's all about the VIN number so build around it... parts is parts
You can reach us at the V8 Speed and Resto Shop any time at www.v8speedshop.com/contact . Thanks!
Your quality of character shines through your work. Top video.
Kevin, you guys always impress. High quality explanation of what “High Quality” work entails.👍
Thank you Sir! There is a lot that goes into it for sure!
The back panel - I think that was for racing as a cutoff switch. The traction bars add to my guess this car has some racing history. In any event - glad this car is in good hands, thanks for sharing! ~ Chuck
Could have been. Thanks for the kind words Chuck, we're looking forward to bringing it back around!
Electrical cutoff switch is my guess as well.
With your level of detail, the car should look brand new when you are done. Thanks for the walk-around.
We hope so.. or better! Thanks!
Awesome video. We love the knowledge you have of the factory body.
Thanks for the kind words!
Looking good!!!!! 👍👍
Thank you!
A very informative video yet again Kevin…thanks, really enjoy your content.
Thanks Allan!
Try using COOPER's STRIPPER from NEW ZEALAND (they ship FREE from NZ to USA) on the panels before using the DA to provide a key. The COOPER's is nothing like the messy so-called "aircraft" paint stripper. Once you use it, you will never look at the other type of paint strippers ever again. SO easy to use and super effective. That rear hole may have been a battery disconnect switch if the car was ever used at a track.
Great tip, it looks interesting! Thanks!
Good analysis… I learned a thing or two and I’ve completed a frame off on my 1968 firebird. Just bought someone else’s incomplete 1966 mustang fastback project with the body on the rotisserie and in primer. I’ve still got to do all the panels and finish the fender flares that they started.
After watching your overview, I would definitely trust you with my car (I couldn’t afford you, but I could trust the work…lol)
Thanks for the positive feedback! There is always more to learn on these things. Details matter, for sure! Best of luck on the Mustang, we'd be happy to see it progress! Thanks again!
6:50 I think that is a hole for a trailer plug receptacle.
Judging by the gas welding/braising I think the quarter was replaced a long time ago and was considered a fairly decent repair back when this was just a used car.
Steve, you could be right but it seems small for a trailer plug 4-pin connector. But who knows? These cars are archaeological expeditions in many ways. We agree the brazing was the way things were often times done, but it appears to have been a rust repair on both sides of the car. So did this one rust quickly requiring quarter skins long ago? Or is this more recent? We'll never know... thanks for the feedback!
I have owned one 67 Camaro but it was primarily primer all over but a friend of mine in my younger days had one, RS I think and it would fly
Nice Speedmaster!
Thank you! Honored to have it.
Very good examination of potential problems prior to the actual restoration. Reveals the camouflage of poor workmanship. Keep the videos coming👏👏👏
I agree Mark!
Thank you Mark!
How do you get all the media out of places like the bottom of the rear quarter panels?
Tat is a great question. We spend lots of time turning the vehicle over on the rotisserie and blowing compressed air and vacuuming the crevices. In this case, the car body was also going to be largely disassembled, so much was blown out at that point.
@@V8TV Thanks. There are just so many places between sheet metal features on these cars that would be very difficult to remove all the debris. I hate the thought of any being left behind for some reason.
i just found who I'm going to when I do my 68 camaro!
I was going to have mine GTO blasted soon too. Is it necessary to go over everything with a DA and clean off the rust inhibitor before epoxy?
I seen that the dustless blaster doesn't warp panels.what there saying is that the panel ends up cooler after blasting. Have you see otherwise?
It's best to be cautious. Any kind of blasting can warp, and it's sometimes from the pressure, sometimes the heat.
That car has been changed from factory specs say to Pilot error and then the local high school auto shop practiced welding or the blacksmith has poor vision. But hey it's all about the VIN number so build around it... parts is parts