Thank you for showing how to finish this bind off neatly in the round. I clipped a red then orange and then yellow light bulb markers to my first 3 bound off stitches at the beginning so it was easier to find them when grafting at the end!
Thank you so much for the bind off in the round! I really wanted to put an I-cord bind off on a sleeve and this is letting me do it! You have great instructional videos!
I just knitted a t-shirt with I-cord edges on sleeves, bottom and neckline. This is the BEST tutorial! So easy to follow your instructions. My favorite part is where you explain where to find the first row of stitches for grafting the ends. Thank you for including knitted cast on and also for showing both flat and in the round.
Thanks, Roxanne! I could've used this a few weeks ago when I used the i-cord bind off for one of my swatches in the Master Knitter Level 3 -- I paired it with the i-cord cast on (even more challenging). Now I'm struggling through getting good gauge in the double knitting swatch. I do recommend your channel to people working through the Master Hand Knitter program. Keep up the good work!
OMG! I just heard what the topic next week will be...I desperately need this. I just finished knitting a baby blanket and some of my edges look a little ‘wonky’....maybe next week’s topic will help bring some order to it.....I can only pray it will. I call you The Fixer cuz you’ve saved me so many times!
Thank you so much for demonstrating this! It was so helpful to have a close up video and your explanation that was very patient and easy to understand!
On my commute to work today, I was testing out how I might pick up stitches on my cardigan front and then use an Icord bind off instead of knitting a button band to finish it off. I may keep testing on it, but I’ll definitely wait until after next week to do the finishing on my sweater.
Thank you, Roxanne. This video provided the close-ups, contrasts, and clarity that I needed to feel comfortable using the I-cord bind-off on the Boneyard Shawl I'm ready to finish. I'm about one-third of the way through with the bind-off and it's going smoothly. I do have one question. Does the I-cord bind-off use up more yarn than the regular bind-off? Thank you.
I couldn't figure out why mine looked sloppy. I needed to tighten the strand of yarn that comes from the front before working the first kitchner repeat. Hope that makes sense and helps someone else :)
This is so detailed as others have said. I have a question about adjusting the I-Cord without resulting in a 'too-tight' cord. I'm working on a circular yoke sweater. The neck was begun with an attached I Cord US 3 to keep it refined. The rest of the sweater is knit with US4. I'd like to use the US 3 on the cuffs to match the neck treatment. Any advice? Keep the tension loose? Skip the decrease?
This is such a terrific neatening process!!! I can see all sorts of uses. In the meantime, I’m going to knit some “twiddle muffs” - for dementia and Alzheimer’s patients to slip over their hands onto their forearm to be able to fidget. It saves the buttons on their cardigans ;). It requires a nice clean join at the two seam ends to make it reversible. Would an iCord be a good idea or do you think a Kitchener stitch is a better idea?
I have used a three-needle i-cord bind off to join two edges with live stitches, which produces icord on one face of the fabric, but on the other, the i-cord doesn't show. It's a nice finish for fabric that has a definite RS/WS. You could consider grafting the edges together and doing an i-cord edging around each end of the tube, instead. I do plan on demonstrating the 3-needle i-cord bind off as a joining method in the next week or two, so you might watch for that.
I should have looked up how these are constructed before I answered! I was imagining them knit in the opposite orientation. So you knit a long tube, fold one half inside the other, and then join the CO end to the BO end, is that correct? In that case, I think you could use a 3needle I-cord BO. K2, sl 1 as if to knit, knit the first st of each of the two needles together, then pass the slipped st over.
I have enjoyed knitting quite a few twiddlemuffs, using bright acrylic yarns in different colors and adding buttons on both front and back. I knit them flat using five 2" horizontal bands of different colors and stitches, with a band of K2P2 ribbing at both ends. After binding off and attaching some buttons, I fold the muff in half vertically and sew the 2 sides together using the blanket stitch. That stitching has a crooked-road look which complements the whimsical design of twiddlemuffs.
Rox, if you're still interested in the vintage knitting books that were found in the Potter House and shown on Curiosity Inc., they are up for auction on KAUCTION.CA till June 8.
Yep, I'm aware. (I think it goes till June 15, though.). The bidding on the knitting books is already at $80 Canadian, which is way higher than I was willing to go, particularly since I didn't know if there was anything in it that I would want to knit. I have secured a digital copy of the booklet (it's in the public domain), and I *have* found something in it that I'm going to knit. It would have been nice to have a physical copy of the book, too, but the current bid is way above what appears to be typical for antique/vintage knitting books. (And if not higher than typical, it's still outside of what I would be willing to spend on it.)
@@RoxanneRichardson I completely understand. I haven't checked the auction site so wasn't aware of where the bidding was. Just wanted to make sure you were aware of this. Love your Tuesday and Friday updates. Take care.
Roxanne, what can the icord BO in the round be used for? I can see it on the cuff of a sleeve. Is it stretchy enough for a toe up sock cuff or could it create problems getting the sock over a heel?
I've used it mostly on sweaters and blankets. Since it's not terribly stretchy, and you have to be careful about not working it too tightly, I probably wouldn't use it at the top of a sock. It'd be easy enough to try on a sock, and if you didn't like it, just take out the BO and use a regular one, instead.
Excellent video, especially the finishing techniques. Do you have any thoughts on working the bind off on the wrong side vs. the right side? I’ve seen patterns that call for the bind off being worked from the wrong side.
Were the patterns knit in the round, or knit flat? Were they using a contrast color for the BO, or the same color as the rest of the project? If the stitch from the left needle (the bottom stitch of the decrease) is a different color than the three sts on the right hand needle, you might be able to see it poking through the center of the st on top. Since the corresponding stitch on the back side isn't worked as a decrease, there isn't anything that would show through. It's potentially more of an issue with contrast yarn for the i-cord if you are picking up sts along an edge as you work the i-cord. It's an interesting question, and not one I had thought about, so thanks for bringing it up!
Roxanne Richardson The pattern I used was the Road to Rhinebeck shawl. It was worked in the flat and the designer suggested using either the main or contrast color for the I cord bind off worked on the wrong side. I’ve done I cord bind offs on both the right and wrong sides. There is a slight difference in appearance, but I’m not sure if there’s a reason why you’d do one or the other.
The head of the bottom stitch involved in the decrease can be seen through the center of the stitch on top when you work an ssk, which is more open than a k2tog tbl. If the stitch on the bottom is a different color, then it might appear as a small blip of color that wouldn't be desirable. I tend to work across the sts in the new color first, an then work the i-cord BO when I use a contrast color, so even if using an ssk, that little blip seen through the ssk isn't going to be a problem, because it's the same color, and it will only be noticeable if you examine closely and compare one face of the fabric to the other. The front side of the i-cord is solidly connected to the fabric. The back side rolls over the edge of the other face of the fabric, and it can be lifted up. So there is a difference, but not one that matters. It's really knitter's choice. If you have a preference, you can knit accordingly.
Hi Roxanne, This is definitely the clearest tutorial! Thank you! I need to knit a 6 stitch icord bind off in the round…… So do I cast on 6 extra stitches and use the same technique, or is there a different way to do so? Thanks again!
I’m confused. You cast on three to the start of a row. So, in the round, would you cast on to the part with the working yarn attached-and go backwards? Or do you just hold the working yarn up to the other needle to cast on?
If you CO into the first st on the left hand needle using the knitting on cast on, that will automatically put the working yarn on the left hand needle at the end of the 3 CO sts.
Do you mean stand-alone i-cord (i.e. not an i-cord bindoff)? It could, but I'd work to a firm gauge, so that the straps wouldn't stretch vertically while you were wearing it.
The difference is in the number of sts used, which will affect the width of the i-cord. It's an aesthetic choice, much like deciding to have a wider or narrower button band.
I have a pattern that calls for a six stitch I cord bind off. Is it basically the same as the 3 stitch but casting on and working 6 stitches? I worry about grafting the ends.
Wait, so you're telling me that knit two together through the back loops means come through the two stitches purlwise? Why don't they call it purl two together through the back loops?
Going through the back/left leg of a stitch is not the same as coming through a stitch from the back (needle pointed toward the front), which is what you do when you purl.
For an outside corner, you can work a few sts of standard i-cord at the corner, in order to round it, but I'm not sure how I'd handle an inside corner. You might have to find a way to work 2 or 3 of the live sts as a decrease while you simultaneously work the i-cord BO.
The joining was done by doing a half-graft/half horizontal seam. Seaming and grafting (and duplicate stitch) all create a path for the yarn that links the row above to the row below in the same way. The way you do this varies, depending on whether you are working with live sts or a finished edge, whether the pieces being joined are lying flat on the table, or hanging down from the needles. Regardless, the yarn takes the same path. "The Kitchener Stitch" is a label that got applied to a particular method of grafting (both pieces of fabric hanging from the needles). Some people use the phrase "kitchener stitch" interchangeably with "grafting." I tend not to, and reserve that label for grafting live stockinette sts off the needle when the two pieces of fabric are hanging down from the needles. That is, I reserve "Kitchener" to describe a specific grafting method/situation. So in that sense, I was using Kitchener to graft the live sts off the needle, but I was using a standard horizontal mattress stitch technique to join to the CO edge.
There is likely a gauge issue with the icord. If the icord seems to be flaring out, then you need to use a smaller needle. If the fabric under it is flaring out, you need to use a larger needle.
Regarding the bind off, flat, I notice you alternate how you return the stitches back to left needle. Is there a specific reason for this? Forgive my ignorance. 😔
Can you be more specific about what you mean, regarding alternating how I return the stitches? Was I sometimes inserting through the front of the sts and sometimes through the back? As long as they are transferred with the two needle tips facing each other, the stitch mount of each stitch will remain the same. If I had reached across the front of a stitch and entered it from right to left, that would have changed the stitch mount.
Roxanne Richardson yes Roxanne, I noticed that sometimes thru back of stitch, then thru front of stitch. Being what I call a beginner knitter I didn’t realize that stitch mount would remain the same! I do “sweat the small stuff”, to a fault! Thank you so much for your timely reply! 😊💕
It's good that you are aware of stitch mount. When we are talking about slipping from the left needle to the right needle, we are usually careful to say "slip as if to purl" or "slip as if to knit" but in that case, the needle is entering the front leg of the stitch in both cases (for knit, you come at the front loop left to right--the working needle is pointing to the right, while for purl, the needle comes from right to left--the needle points left) Slip as if to knit through the back will give the same result as slip as if to purl, because the working needle is also pointing left!. :-)
Thanks for super clear tutorial. My go-to person when I need to know !!!!!!
This is by far the Best I-cord bind off video on UA-cam!!! Thank you for this video😁😁👍👍
You're very welcome!
I did it! I knitted an i-cord sleeve cuff and with this video tutorial, was able to bind it off very neatly. You’re the best! Thank you. 😊
You’re amazing. Best I cord bindoff video!
Thank you for showing how to finish this bind off neatly in the round. I clipped a red then orange and then yellow light bulb markers to my first 3 bound off stitches at the beginning so it was easier to find them when grafting at the end!
Thank you so much for the bind off in the round! I really wanted to put an I-cord bind off on a sleeve and this is letting me do it! You have great instructional videos!
Looked at several attached
I-cord videos. This was the easiest by far. Thank you so much🤗
This is by far the clearest demonstration I’ve seen on grafting i-cord bind off at the end of a round in circular knitting. Thank you!
So I’ve been searching for videos for the I cord bins off and your video had the simplest explanation! Thank you so much!
You are so welcome!
You really are incredible. I just finished a project, realized it was not right and found the answer here. Thanks so much.
I just knitted a t-shirt with I-cord edges on sleeves, bottom and neckline. This is the BEST tutorial! So easy to follow your instructions. My favorite part is where you explain where to find the first row of stitches for grafting the ends. Thank you for including knitted cast on and also for showing both flat and in the round.
Thank you for such a great video on this technique. I appreciate your teaching skills and style. 😀
Thanks, Roxanne! I could've used this a few weeks ago when I used the i-cord bind off for one of my swatches in the Master Knitter Level 3 -- I paired it with the i-cord cast on (even more challenging). Now I'm struggling through getting good gauge in the double knitting swatch. I do recommend your channel to people working through the Master Hand Knitter program. Keep up the good work!
OMG! I just heard what the topic next week will be...I desperately need this. I just finished knitting a baby blanket and some of my edges look a little ‘wonky’....maybe next week’s topic will help bring some order to it.....I can only pray it will.
I call you The Fixer cuz you’ve saved me so many times!
You are an amazing teacher. Thank you. Now i think i can try the i-cord bind off of the Ranunculus sleeve cuff. Thanks again. 😊
Thank you so much for demonstrating this! It was so helpful to have a close up video and your explanation that was very patient and easy to understand!
Thank you so much! This was exactly what I was looking for! Sometimes its hard to search for certain things and this was one of them! Thank you!!!
Thank you! So clear and logical!
What a beautiful way to finish off a sweater. I love the look.
Wow 😳 so wonderful to find such a polished finish!
Another great and very useful tutorial!! Thank you!
You're very welcome!
Thanks a lot and greetings from Brazil. You are a great teacher and I learn a lot from you.
Thank you soooo much! Making an attached I-cord is so easy your way🥰
What a good video, with precise views, of beginning to end for knitting this I cord
Fabulously clear, as always. Thank you!
Thank you so much, Roxanne! Just what I needed.
Hi Roxanne, I would like to see a video of putting in a pocket in an already finished sweater. I love your video's, thank you,
Right On Roxanne!!! Sounded so hard for years now I know! Thanks to You😀🧶
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I really had difficulty with this technique. I have a lovely jacket pattern with I-cord bound edges.
First demo that made sense. Thank you.
Can you show us a 3 needle I-cord bind-off, please? Your videos are terrific. Perfect combination of visual and verbal explanation.
Thank you so much for this!!
Thank you thank you thank you. You are the best and so awesome. I've so much to learn
Great video. Thank you!
Thank you for making this so clear!
Thank you! I defaintly will use this on my next blanket project.
Thank you for your beautiful video. I have tried it and it helps me.
Beautiful. Thanks so much for posting this.
Very helpful, thank-you.
Looking forward to next week too.
Wow! Thank you for this really helpful video!
Looking forward to next week’s episode too.
Thank you for such clear instruction
Great helpful video as always 💜🙏🏽💜
On my commute to work today, I was testing out how I might pick up stitches on my cardigan front and then use an Icord bind off instead of knitting a button band to finish it off. I may keep testing on it, but I’ll definitely wait until after next week to do the finishing on my sweater.
Thank you, Roxanne. This video provided the close-ups, contrasts, and clarity that I needed to feel comfortable using the I-cord bind-off on the Boneyard Shawl I'm ready to finish. I'm about one-third of the way through with the bind-off and it's going smoothly.
I do have one question. Does the I-cord bind-off use up more yarn than the regular bind-off? Thank you.
This was so helpful. Thanks for this video!
What a terrific video! Thanks for this.
Thank You. It will help mi with penguono by Stephen West. I was watching his tutorial too but Yours id more clear for me.
I couldn't figure out why mine looked sloppy. I needed to tighten the strand of yarn that comes from the front before working the first kitchner repeat. Hope that makes sense and helps someone else :)
Holey Moley! Great video, Roxanne. Thanks!
Nifty! Thank you very clear instructions
You're welcome!
This is very helpful! Thank you!
Love those needles!
Thank you Roxanne.. awesome. 🤗
This was so perfect! Thank you!
Fantastic! Thank you so much!
Be blessed!
This is so detailed as others have said. I have a question about adjusting the I-Cord without resulting in a 'too-tight' cord. I'm working on a circular yoke sweater. The neck was begun with an attached I Cord US 3 to keep it refined. The rest of the sweater is knit with US4. I'd like to use the US 3 on the cuffs to match the neck treatment. Any advice? Keep the tension loose? Skip the decrease?
This is brilliant 👌👍
This is such a terrific neatening process!!! I can see all sorts of uses. In the meantime, I’m going to knit some “twiddle muffs” - for dementia and Alzheimer’s patients to slip over their hands onto their forearm to be able to fidget. It saves the buttons on their cardigans ;). It requires a nice clean join at the two seam ends to make it reversible. Would an iCord be a good idea or do you think a Kitchener stitch is a better idea?
I have used a three-needle i-cord bind off to join two edges with live stitches, which produces icord on one face of the fabric, but on the other, the i-cord doesn't show. It's a nice finish for fabric that has a definite RS/WS. You could consider grafting the edges together and doing an i-cord edging around each end of the tube, instead. I do plan on demonstrating the 3-needle i-cord bind off as a joining method in the next week or two, so you might watch for that.
I should have looked up how these are constructed before I answered! I was imagining them knit in the opposite orientation. So you knit a long tube, fold one half inside the other, and then join the CO end to the BO end, is that correct? In that case, I think you could use a 3needle I-cord BO. K2, sl 1 as if to knit, knit the first st of each of the two needles together, then pass the slipped st over.
Roxanne Richardson yes that’s correct. They are knit into a long tube. Thanks for that instruction. I’ll definitely give it a go. As they say. :)
I have enjoyed knitting quite a few twiddlemuffs, using bright acrylic yarns in different colors and adding buttons on both front and back. I knit them flat using five 2" horizontal bands of different colors and stitches, with a band of K2P2 ribbing at both ends.
After binding off and attaching some buttons, I fold the muff in half vertically and sew the 2 sides together using the blanket stitch. That stitching has a crooked-road look which complements the whimsical design of twiddlemuffs.
THANKS FOR SHARING YOUR VIDEO. ITS SO UNIQUE. 💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁 🙏🙏🙏 FROM SYDNEY AUSTRALIA
Rox, if you're still interested in the vintage knitting books that were found in the Potter House and shown on Curiosity Inc., they are up for auction on KAUCTION.CA till June 8.
Yep, I'm aware. (I think it goes till June 15, though.). The bidding on the knitting books is already at $80 Canadian, which is way higher than I was willing to go, particularly since I didn't know if there was anything in it that I would want to knit. I have secured a digital copy of the booklet (it's in the public domain), and I *have* found something in it that I'm going to knit. It would have been nice to have a physical copy of the book, too, but the current bid is way above what appears to be typical for antique/vintage knitting books. (And if not higher than typical, it's still outside of what I would be willing to spend on it.)
@@RoxanneRichardson I completely understand. I haven't checked the auction site so wasn't aware of where the bidding was. Just wanted to make sure you were aware of this. Love your Tuesday and Friday updates. Take care.
Wow, I love it, can’t wait to give it a try in the round!
Roxanne, what can the icord BO in the round be used for? I can see it on the cuff of a sleeve. Is it stretchy enough for a toe up sock cuff or could it create problems getting the sock over a heel?
I've used it mostly on sweaters and blankets. Since it's not terribly stretchy, and you have to be careful about not working it too tightly, I probably wouldn't use it at the top of a sock. It'd be easy enough to try on a sock, and if you didn't like it, just take out the BO and use a regular one, instead.
Thanks!
You bet!
Well done; thanks for not being too gabby! Be safe..........
Excellent video, especially the finishing techniques. Do you have any thoughts on working the bind off on the wrong side vs. the right side? I’ve seen patterns that call for the bind off being worked from the wrong side.
Were the patterns knit in the round, or knit flat? Were they using a contrast color for the BO, or the same color as the rest of the project? If the stitch from the left needle (the bottom stitch of the decrease) is a different color than the three sts on the right hand needle, you might be able to see it poking through the center of the st on top. Since the corresponding stitch on the back side isn't worked as a decrease, there isn't anything that would show through. It's potentially more of an issue with contrast yarn for the i-cord if you are picking up sts along an edge as you work the i-cord. It's an interesting question, and not one I had thought about, so thanks for bringing it up!
Roxanne Richardson The pattern I used was the Road to Rhinebeck shawl. It was worked in the flat and the designer suggested using either the main or contrast color for the I cord bind off worked on the wrong side. I’ve done I cord bind offs on both the right and wrong sides. There is a slight difference in appearance, but I’m not sure if there’s a reason why you’d do one or the other.
The head of the bottom stitch involved in the decrease can be seen through the center of the stitch on top when you work an ssk, which is more open than a k2tog tbl. If the stitch on the bottom is a different color, then it might appear as a small blip of color that wouldn't be desirable. I tend to work across the sts in the new color first, an then work the i-cord BO when I use a contrast color, so even if using an ssk, that little blip seen through the ssk isn't going to be a problem, because it's the same color, and it will only be noticeable if you examine closely and compare one face of the fabric to the other. The front side of the i-cord is solidly connected to the fabric. The back side rolls over the edge of the other face of the fabric, and it can be lifted up. So there is a difference, but not one that matters. It's really knitter's choice. If you have a preference, you can knit accordingly.
That was great for someone who is a novice.
Hi Roxanne,
This is definitely the clearest tutorial! Thank you! I need to knit a 6 stitch icord bind off in the round…… So do I cast on 6 extra stitches and use the same technique, or is there a different way to do so? Thanks again!
That's the approach I would take! :-)
You are fantastic and don't you forget it!! 😉
I’m confused. You cast on three to the start of a row. So, in the round, would you cast on to the part with the working yarn attached-and go backwards? Or do you just hold the working yarn up to the other needle to cast on?
If you CO into the first st on the left hand needle using the knitting on cast on, that will automatically put the working yarn on the left hand needle at the end of the 3 CO sts.
Loved the video; do you have a video of an i-cord going around a corner?
ua-cam.com/video/9INLs2x5evE/v-deo.html
So helpful!
Very helpful, thank-you. Would an i-cord serve well as a strap on a knitted camisole?
Do you mean stand-alone i-cord (i.e. not an i-cord bindoff)? It could, but I'd work to a firm gauge, so that the straps wouldn't stretch vertically while you were wearing it.
What's the difference between a 3-stitch I-Cord bindoff and a 4-stitch or 6-stitch I-Cord bind off. And what is each one best for?
The difference is in the number of sts used, which will affect the width of the i-cord. It's an aesthetic choice, much like deciding to have a wider or narrower button band.
Thanks
How do you do a 6 stitch I-cord bind off?
I have a pattern that calls for a six stitch I cord bind off. Is it basically the same as the 3 stitch but casting on and working 6 stitches? I worry about grafting the ends.
It would be the same, and the grafting process would be the same, just repeated over more sts.
Wait, so you're telling me that knit two together through the back loops means come through the two stitches purlwise? Why don't they call it purl two together through the back loops?
Going through the back/left leg of a stitch is not the same as coming through a stitch from the back (needle pointed toward the front), which is what you do when you purl.
I cord bind off is bit broad.neck of my sweater is looking broad.Any suggestion please
Use a smaller needle.
How do I do an I cord edging on a square neck? Is there a way to have mitres corners?
For an outside corner, you can work a few sts of standard i-cord at the corner, in order to round it, but I'm not sure how I'd handle an inside corner. You might have to find a way to work 2 or 3 of the live sts as a decrease while you simultaneously work the i-cord BO.
@@RoxanneRichardson thanks you very much! I do have an inside corner so perhaps I will find another way …. Am trying to avoid a ribbed neckline
Is the graft in this video done using the Kitchener stitch?
The joining was done by doing a half-graft/half horizontal seam. Seaming and grafting (and duplicate stitch) all create a path for the yarn that links the row above to the row below in the same way. The way you do this varies, depending on whether you are working with live sts or a finished edge, whether the pieces being joined are lying flat on the table, or hanging down from the needles. Regardless, the yarn takes the same path. "The Kitchener Stitch" is a label that got applied to a particular method of grafting (both pieces of fabric hanging from the needles). Some people use the phrase "kitchener stitch" interchangeably with "grafting." I tend not to, and reserve that label for grafting live stockinette sts off the needle when the two pieces of fabric are hanging down from the needles. That is, I reserve "Kitchener" to describe a specific grafting method/situation. So in that sense, I was using Kitchener to graft the live sts off the needle, but I was using a standard horizontal mattress stitch technique to join to the CO edge.
Thanks Roxanne! Loving your videos!
I’m currently working an icord bind off in the round with decreases and it’s puckering. Can anyone tell me what I might be doing wrong?
There is likely a gauge issue with the icord. If the icord seems to be flaring out, then you need to use a smaller needle. If the fabric under it is flaring out, you need to use a larger needle.
Could you do a cantered double decrease for. The last three stitches?
I imagine so. Try it, and see what you think. :-)
Regarding the bind off, flat, I notice you alternate how you return the stitches back to left needle. Is there a specific reason for this? Forgive my ignorance. 😔
Can you be more specific about what you mean, regarding alternating how I return the stitches? Was I sometimes inserting through the front of the sts and sometimes through the back? As long as they are transferred with the two needle tips facing each other, the stitch mount of each stitch will remain the same. If I had reached across the front of a stitch and entered it from right to left, that would have changed the stitch mount.
Roxanne Richardson yes Roxanne, I noticed that sometimes thru back of stitch, then thru front of stitch. Being what I call a beginner knitter I didn’t realize that stitch mount would remain the same! I do “sweat the small stuff”, to a fault! Thank you so much for your timely reply! 😊💕
It's good that you are aware of stitch mount. When we are talking about slipping from the left needle to the right needle, we are usually careful to say "slip as if to purl" or "slip as if to knit" but in that case, the needle is entering the front leg of the stitch in both cases (for knit, you come at the front loop left to right--the working needle is pointing to the right, while for purl, the needle comes from right to left--the needle points left) Slip as if to knit through the back will give the same result as slip as if to purl, because the working needle is also pointing left!. :-)
S
Dropped stitch
Very helpful, thank you
Thanks!
YOu're welcome! :-)
Thanks!
You're welcome! :-)