Proper scientific method to solve a problem. Think about it, let ideas form, pick the best and then test it. That's the difference between a spanner twiddler and an engineer. Well done Mike.
This may sound snobbish, but I try and use only Mikalor clamps. Whether double eared or hose clamp, they are strong, and I’ve never had one fail. Great to see all care and attention you put in to the faults/your repairs, it takes time (=money), but your customers have got to appreciate your skill and detail!!
Bugga - didn't read the comments before saying the same thing 5 mins ago. Us old farts get the reference, but I bet the rest of the world is asking: what the hell are they on about?
Nice fix.. I've seen chassis "repairs" submitted for test done with "structural" exhaust paste gunned in to fill gaps next to the fuel lines and fuel tanks using the heat from the weld furthur along to make it go off....
Not only fuel links are fixed with gungum. I had it in the injector seats also probably due to lack of copper washers. I got it removed with a wood drill bit. But that it expands when heated up I didn't know. Good to know for future fixes. 👍 up for this repair! Excellent job without risking anything.
Hi Mike my son had a similar problem with his stainless steel exhaust on his John Cooper works mini could not get it to seal until he was recommended to use a sealer that’s used for wood burning stove flue, but it can take the high temperature and stays flexible, worked a treat 🧢🇬🇧👍
Don’t get me wrong I love Land Rovers, but stuff like this makes me wonder what the hell the original design engineers of this engine were putting in their tea. Lots of aggro getting the parts on/ off - would have been an awfully difficult job for a “shade tree” mechanic. Great result Mike. Bravo! “Didn’t know Spain made anything…” Can we just say: Penelope Cruz. ‘Nuff said! 😆🤣
Mike that was one of your best for me. I love to see the process of having a seemingly impossible thing to fix, going through various permutations, a visit and a chat with JP, then finally something that appears to be a simply solution but is only a simply solution because of all the thought and experience that went into it. But that wasn't why it was one of your best video's, it was the, "Cough, Arsenal" gag. I nearly chocked on my Wurther's Original. I haven't heard that in ages. Loved the experiment at the end too. Very interesting to see how products actually work.
Hi Mike, since thé "position " of thé blowing, can we say that one possibility is that thé turbo provide too must power (pressure). So when you finish this réparé, can it just pushes thé desease later in thé air way to thé engine, may we have intercooler or other pipe pb ? What I suggest is, provided that it is possible is to introduce in this pipe way à soft pièce of pipe that will be able to absorbé this over pressure pick, even if you loose à little power, but keep thé system safe ?
on old FJ landcruser it takes max 10min to remove all sheet metal around the engine, wonder it it could become a routine or make it more accessible to remove a fender when working on the engine ? BTW nice fix.
Maybe a more permanent fix for these is to braze a small bit of pipe on then simply weld a 3bolt flange a little further down with an exhaust gasket.. no exhaust paste needed. Will never need an attention again,
@@BritannicaRestorations ahh you did say he has added extras. Im so close on mine now, but have had to strip the dash out as i have found a fault on the new loom and tech support were off on Thurs at Autosparks :(. Re trimed the roof thanks to you videos last week so nearly there.
Awesome - I would have used fireproof silicone. There are (expensive ones) that can be used in places where flames might lick and a good seal is needed. I also have a 200tdi - eating alternator belts like they are snacks at the moment.
@@RainerDetering can it be because I drove with the belts too loose? Alternator was charging ok, had cooling but the belts were always loose - I only just found out about the 5mm slack rule.
Nice fix Mike. When fixing Land Rovers ( or anything for that mater) you have to think outside the box. I was thinking along the lines of sleeving the cast spigot with a piece of exhaust pipe and a generous layer of jb weld between the two to take up the slack. Spoke to a custom exhaust fabricator once and he swore by silicon sealant over paste (better vibration resistance). Said any would do fine. I’ve used both rtv and exhaust paste. Never an issue with either. What’s your thoughts?
Crikey mate, I thought you were pushing loose shit uphill with a busted fork held by loose fitting dentures, whilst tryin’ to keep yer chin up. well done.
Mike. Might need your reaming tool to tear myself a new arse-hole after fitting these God damn dampers on Rangies ? This 200Tdi is going to have a dump pipe by the time the exhaust system has been expanded from 2.0" diameter to 2.5" ! V.
Great! Thanks for fixing that and correcting some of my mistakes ( I have hidden some more for future videos). The 100$ clamp: is that tax included?
PROBLEM!!!! What problem, You just get better Mike. many thanks. Yorkshire Rob.
Thanks Rob!
Proper scientific method to solve a problem. Think about it, let ideas form, pick the best and then test it. That's the difference between a spanner twiddler and an engineer. Well done Mike.
Cracking job Mike 👏
This may sound snobbish, but I try and use only Mikalor clamps. Whether double eared or hose clamp, they are strong, and I’ve never had one fail.
Great to see all care and attention you put in to the faults/your repairs, it takes time (=money), but your customers have got to appreciate your skill and detail!!
Thanks!
Great Eric Morecambe reference 😁
You know it!
You slipped that 'arsenal' in brilliantly....oerrr, that sounds a bit rude😃
Bugga - didn't read the comments before saying the same thing 5 mins ago. Us old farts get the reference, but I bet the rest of the world is asking: what the hell are they on about?
Lol!
What an excellent fix , very interesting
Glad you enjoyed it
I’m going to start charging £100 per clamp, great tip Mike! ( I’m lucky if my mates even make me a brew!).
Good stuff!
Nice fix..
I've seen chassis "repairs" submitted for test done with "structural" exhaust paste gunned in to fill gaps next to the fuel lines and fuel tanks using the heat from the weld furthur along to make it go off....
Interesting!
Not only fuel links are fixed with gungum. I had it in the injector seats also probably due to lack of copper washers. I got it removed with a wood drill bit.
But that it expands when heated up I didn't know. Good to know for future fixes. 👍 up for this repair! Excellent job without risking anything.
Mike, my 200tdi just has the downpipe bracket bolted directly to the block. It was like that when new back in 1994 (engine was a LR repower kit)
Yes, this bracket is missing - about £21 + vat - which is probably why they go missing!
Yorkshireman fix cost nowt!
👍
Hi Mike my son had a similar problem with his stainless steel exhaust on his John Cooper works mini could not get it to seal until he was recommended to use a sealer that’s used for wood burning stove flue, but it can take the high temperature and stays flexible, worked a treat 🧢🇬🇧👍
Thanks for the tip!
Good job Sir👌
Thanks and welcome
Exactly how I'd have fixed it Mike, good job!
Thanks 👍
Don’t get me wrong I love Land Rovers, but stuff like this makes me wonder what the hell the original design engineers of this engine were putting in their tea.
Lots of aggro getting the parts on/ off - would have been an awfully difficult job for a “shade tree” mechanic.
Great result Mike. Bravo!
“Didn’t know Spain made anything…”
Can we just say: Penelope Cruz.
‘Nuff said!
😆🤣
Lol!
great video
Thanks for the visit
Mike that was one of your best for me.
I love to see the process of having a seemingly impossible thing to fix, going through various permutations, a visit and a chat with JP, then finally something that appears to be a simply solution but is only a simply solution because of all the thought and experience that went into it.
But that wasn't why it was one of your best video's, it was the, "Cough, Arsenal" gag. I nearly chocked on my Wurther's Original. I haven't heard that in ages.
Loved the experiment at the end too. Very interesting to see how products actually work.
Thanks Harvey!
King Mike has done it again. 👌🏻
Cheers. 🥃
Hi Mike, since thé "position " of thé blowing, can we say that one possibility is that thé turbo provide too must power (pressure). So when you finish this réparé, can it just pushes thé desease later in thé air way to thé engine, may we have intercooler or other pipe pb ? What I suggest is, provided that it is possible is to introduce in this pipe way à soft pièce of pipe that will be able to absorbé this over pressure pick, even if you loose à little power, but keep thé system safe ?
on old FJ landcruser it takes max 10min to remove all sheet metal around the engine, wonder it it could become a routine or make it more accessible to remove a fender when working on the engine ? BTW nice fix.
Great point!
Maybe a more permanent fix for these is to braze a small bit of pipe on then simply weld a 3bolt flange a little further down with an exhaust gasket.. no exhaust paste needed. Will never need an attention again,
With the correct bracket on the bottom of the engine, tying the pipe to the block, it will not go anywhere
what's the braded hose coming out of the exhaust manifold? near the down pipe.
EGT sensor
@@BritannicaRestorations ahh you did say he has added extras. Im so close on mine now, but have had to strip the dash out as i have found a fault on the new loom and tech support were off on Thurs at Autosparks :(. Re trimed the roof thanks to you videos last week so nearly there.
5:15 for all the Eric Morecambe fans out there _''*coughs...Arsenal!''_
Awesome - I would have used fireproof silicone. There are (expensive ones) that can be used in places where flames might lick and a good seal is needed.
I also have a 200tdi - eating alternator belts like they are snacks at the moment.
It's either the idler pulley or tensioner.
@@RainerDetering can it be because I drove with the belts too loose? Alternator was charging ok, had cooling but the belts were always loose - I only just found out about the 5mm slack rule.
Nice fix Mike. When fixing Land Rovers ( or anything for that mater) you have to think outside the box. I was thinking along the lines of sleeving the cast spigot with a piece of exhaust pipe and a generous layer of jb weld between the two to take up the slack. Spoke to a custom exhaust fabricator once and he swore by silicon sealant over paste (better vibration resistance). Said any would do fine. I’ve used both rtv and exhaust paste. Never an issue with either. What’s your thoughts?
I find large gaps do not seal well with silicone where there is a lot of pressure in the system
Elegant solution Mike. Didn't quite catch the name of the lock nuts you used on the Turbo. Did you say "Fermus nuts"?
I know this type of locknut as a Stover nut.
@@paulm4710 Thank you.
First time I've heard of this paste. I must not be visiting the JB website enough.
Sold in most auto parts shops
Crikey mate, I thought you were pushing loose shit uphill with a busted fork held by loose fitting dentures, whilst tryin’ to keep yer chin up. well done.
Lol!
woo hoo you used my idea lol
Mike. Might need your reaming tool to tear myself a new arse-hole after fitting these God damn dampers on Rangies ? This 200Tdi is going to have a dump pipe by the time the exhaust system has been expanded from 2.0" diameter to 2.5" ! V.
lol!