Hey Jerry you are so correct! I unbolted grounds on my old truck and cleaned them then reinstalled and painted over the bolts. Battery charges better and I could be imagining this but my electronics are happier!
A good ground should read no more than 0.5 ohm plus the resistance of your leads. Anything higher for sure would indicate a problem with the ground jumper, the terminals not being clean or even how tight they are will affect this reading. Step #1 get your leads together without touching them with your hands and take a reading....most meters will read 0.2- 0.3 ohms and then this gets subtracted from your readings. BSK showed all the points to add a ground so there you have it. Note: some manuals specify to check for maximum of 0.2 volt drop as well but that is a method you can use when you already have everything connected...take your pick.
@@leakyjeep5.9 yup, heard that from my mechanic along with the fact that bad grounds can make an engine run stupid and cause problems where what seems to be malfunctioning is NOT the problem.
Man I need help! I have a 6.0 gen1 I swapped into my 65 c10. It was working fine. I bought valve covers which required me to swap the coils to the flat coils, they plugged right up no issue. At the same time, I swapped to a billet alternator bracket. Now I can’t get spark! I have continuity on all grounds. I have a ground from the passenger cylinder head to the frame. From frame to the battery. From driver side cylinder head to the body. I never had a ground from head to firewall or hood. But it worked fine before and now no spark! I’m getting power to the msd box as well.
98 gmc vortec 5.7 stock.....the ground strap between engine and firewall is corroded / broke ...truck died going down the highway 55 mph......that nut holding the ground strap to back of engine ---I cant get to it ( back surgery ) ...is there another place on the engine I can attach a ground strap and run it somewhere that will serve the same purpose as the original pain in the a*s location ?....I'm guessing the original ground strap breaking cut my fuel off somehow ...truck will crank but won't start ...thanks in advance
I did a trunk mount on my la swap . Could i put a 3 foot 2 gauge from battery to frame then engine to frame in the front or do I have to run ground all the way to engine from trunk. Please help and thanks for the vid
As long as the ground is solid I don’t see a problem going from trunk to frame then frame to engine. You could always measure the resistance afterwards from the engine to battery cable to see
Have you covered how you're making your power cables? I'm debating making them and thinking through sizes and lengths now. I was planning 2 gauge from battery to starter, 4 gauge from starter to alternator (using the GM junction block).
I am doing some work on upgrading electrical wiring under the hood. I cannot seem to find my engines ground to the chassis or frame. Can I ground wherever I want from the body of the engine to the frame of the car? Will this just add another ground or cause problems?
Hey Jerry, I have a 98’ TJ and I’m making all new 2 gauge wiring for my Jeeps battery, ground, alternator and starter. I was going to weld a bolt to the frame and use the same 2 gauge wire and connect it to the frame as the new ground. Do you think using one of these pre-made ground straps straps would be better?
Hey Jerry you are so correct! I unbolted grounds on my old truck and cleaned them then reinstalled and painted over the bolts. Battery charges better and I could be imagining this but my electronics are happier!
Oh for sure less resistance now 👍, good Job
I love the swap you went with my man never saw or heard of it 💯💯💯💯
"Diagnosing bad ground can be very frustrating" Well you now know why I am here 😂
A good ground should read no more than 0.5 ohm plus the resistance of your leads. Anything higher for sure would indicate a problem with the ground jumper, the terminals not being clean or even how tight they are will affect this reading. Step #1 get your leads together without touching them with your hands and take a reading....most meters will read 0.2- 0.3 ohms and then this gets subtracted from your readings. BSK showed all the points to add a ground so there you have it. Note: some manuals specify to check for maximum of 0.2 volt drop as well but that is a method you can use when you already have everything connected...take your pick.
Funny how some people don't understand how important grounding really is.
Exactly why I’m watching this video now. Been chasing bad grounds for over a week.
Almost there Jerry.
Have a great time in Cuba.
Rust proof the hole for the insert do you?
Thanks for this video, helpful for my swap.
Thank you 😊...lots of help...AND...l could hear you!!..Yeyyy!...very good.
What are the benefits of grounding the hood?
Why such a large ground to the hood?
Why ground the hood? What's the point?
Shouldn't you ground both engine heads with a Y strap or each individually? Just curious.
One ground to the frame and one to the metal body.
I’m confused why you need so many grounds? Isn’t the original TJ just have battery to body and battery to block?
Can never ever have too many grounds.
@@leakyjeep5.9 yup, heard that from my mechanic along with the fact that bad grounds can make an engine run stupid and cause problems where what seems to be malfunctioning is NOT the problem.
Never seen a jeep made better till now
Man I need help! I have a 6.0 gen1 I swapped into my 65 c10. It was working fine. I bought valve covers which required me to swap the coils to the flat coils, they plugged right up no issue. At the same time, I swapped to a billet alternator bracket. Now I can’t get spark! I have continuity on all grounds. I have a ground from the passenger cylinder head to the frame. From frame to the battery. From driver side cylinder head to the body. I never had a ground from head to firewall or hood. But it worked fine before and now no spark! I’m getting power to the msd box as well.
98 gmc vortec 5.7 stock.....the ground strap between engine and firewall is corroded / broke ...truck died going down the highway 55 mph......that nut holding the ground strap to back of engine ---I cant get to it ( back surgery ) ...is there another place on the engine I can attach a ground strap and run it somewhere that will serve the same purpose as the original pain in the a*s location ?....I'm guessing the original ground strap breaking cut my fuel off somehow ...truck will crank but won't start ...thanks in advance
I did a trunk mount on my la swap . Could i put a 3 foot 2 gauge from battery to frame then engine to frame in the front or do I have to run ground all the way to engine from trunk. Please help and thanks for the vid
As long as the ground is solid I don’t see a problem going from trunk to frame then frame to engine. You could always measure the resistance afterwards from the engine to battery cable to see
Have you covered how you're making your power cables? I'm debating making them and thinking through sizes and lengths now. I was planning 2 gauge from battery to starter, 4 gauge from starter to alternator (using the GM junction block).
No cause everyone’s set up will be different
@@TestDontguess Are you running Alternator to PDC or Alternator to Starter or Alternator to Battery?
Grounds are your best friend for sure . Great job Jerry ! Until next time take care and pets to Tomcat for me .
Yes without good grounds you will have huge headaches
I am doing some work on upgrading electrical wiring under the hood. I cannot seem to find my engines ground to the chassis or frame. Can I ground wherever I want from the body of the engine to the frame of the car? Will this just add another ground or cause problems?
I've always thought of myself as a well grounded person myself! Ha Ha!
I thought you were heading off to Cuba? Grounding on a Jeep is huge!!!!!
already been to Cuba and back 1.5 months ago
Haha, my bad -forgot about the fact the video was made some time ago! Hope you had a good time!!
All videos are made sometime ago, the videos on this channel are made at a much longer interval
Hey Jerry, I have a 98’ TJ and I’m making all new 2 gauge wiring for my Jeeps battery, ground, alternator and starter. I was going to weld a bolt to the frame and use the same 2 gauge wire and connect it to the frame as the new ground. Do you think using one of these pre-made ground straps straps would be better?
I think straps are better for vibration and flexibility
You don't have to go from the engine to the frame?
Stock doesn’t have any frame grounds. It would ground itself with various body bolts and through the drivetrain
Absolutely use the new straps. Good call.
Checkout my channel when you have time. Thanks! I subbed!