Very clear and complete,and in good order, I understood perfectly at first watch. Other videos from other channel fail to explain it that well and show close-up with commands and results, which is crucial for understanding. You made the missing perfect manual. Thanks a lot, very much appreciated.
Great review, i had one of these as i did lightningstage design from 1980 to 1993. Found one for 25 bucks at goodwill, enjoyingusing it, works perfectly.
Good effort, but I think you missed out a very important thing, what Incident Light Measuring is for, and how to do it properly. Incident readings are used instead of reflected light readings ( most hand held, and all built into camera meters only do reflected) to eliminate errors in exposure caused by very bright, like snow, or very dark, like deep forest, scenes. In both cases a reflected light reading would underexpose the snow scene and overexposed the forest. Stand in the same light as the subject, usually by turning around and facing the opposite direction to the way the camera is facing, and take the reading. If shooting portraits, go up to the person and point the meter at the camera.
For portraits would you suggest using the lumisphere and aim towards the camera from the subject? Or use the lumigrid for reflected lighting and aim it at the subject?
The incident reading measures the light falling on your subject and this what you want for an accurate exposure for a portrait. The reflected light reading, using the lumigrid measures the average brightness of the entire scene your subject is in. If the background is dark, you will get a different reading than if the background is bright. You will overexpose the face if the background is dark. You’ll underexpose the face if the background is light
Just be aware that we cannot take a speedlight or strobe reading with the analog meter from Sekonic (L-398A). It's a great meter for video, using with reflectors outside, or balancing the ratios for constant lights, but pointless for using with flash. No one seems to mention this explicitly. The Sekonic Flashmate does all the same things the so-called "Studio Deluxe" does, PLUS it can measure studio strobes. I'm glad I have it in my bag, but don't goof up like I did!
Trying to hard to follow this video since everything is on the 398A and not this one. I appreciate the time you took to present this. Does anyone know where I can find a manual or another video?
Hi, thanks for your vídeo! I bought a used campera and what a surprise that this so wonderful tool vale with it, for free!!! I'm just learning yo use ir for portraits and it's terrific, the way that it gives an accurate medition! What if use as you say and shoot my speedlight to calculate the exposicition? May this light damage My exposimeter?
@@photographyandmore i see. Its the same concept as the still camera speeds vs f stop but on movie cameras, the most common speeds used is 16 frames/second for silent movie or 24 fps for talkies then you view what is the recommended f stop. Since most film cameras have a fixed shutter angle of 204 degrees as in my b&h 70 HR, the meter gives the f-stop as a fixed value. If you van vary the shutter angle, then some simple math has to be used to arrive at the optimum f stop in that case. If anyone has a shorter explanation, please chime in.
Hi Martinw Pettinger, These marks are the exposure Exposure Multipliers, use x1/2 when desiring to cut the exposure to 1/2 (lesser) and the x2 and x4 positions to multiply the exposure by 2 and 4 (greater). 1M means 1/1000 sec. and 2M 1/2000 sec. If you need to use shutter speeds above 1/2000 seconds you can make an equivalent exposure from the measurement you get in 1/2000 sec. For example if 1/2000 sec. The lightmeter indicates use F8, then equivalent exposure is 1/4000 sec. F5.6 or 1/8000 sec. F4.
Hi John, The Luminidisc it's employed for illumination contrast adjustment and illuminance measurement. The Luminigrid it's used to reflected ligth measurement.
Awesome and very informative video of how to setup and use the Sekonic L-398. Long story short (I'll try), I was a semi-professional back in day before digital existed. Other than a decent camera, the right film, and mastering the nearly enumerate settings, I learned early on a separate light meter is an absolute essential piece of equipment to have in the camera bag. Fade out...digitals became famous, I switched...fade back in after nearly 20yrs...back to my original well stored Nikon FE2 35mm FILM camera. Regardless the medium used, CCD/CMOS image sensor or film, besides the ability to focus, controlling the light is absolutely essential. Without light there can be no photograph. Besides the camera, having and using a photographic light meter is imperative if you want better than average images. The Sekonic L398 is probably the most basic yet all encompassing meter that's been around for decades. No batteries required. After so many years I had nearly forgotten how to setup and use it. This video more than replaces a user manual which was all there was way back when. No internet, cell phones, satellite or cable TV. Without light there can be no photograph. Harnessing the light you have, there's no limit to the photographic possibilities. Kudos to Photography And More!
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Very clear and complete,and in good order, I understood perfectly at first watch.
Other videos from other channel fail to explain it that well and show close-up with commands and results, which is crucial for understanding.
You made the missing perfect manual.
Thanks a lot, very much appreciated.
Great review, i had one of these as i did lightningstage design from 1980 to 1993. Found one for 25 bucks at goodwill, enjoyingusing it, works perfectly.
Good effort, but I think you missed out a very important thing, what Incident Light Measuring is for, and how to do it properly. Incident readings are used instead of reflected light readings ( most hand held, and all built into camera meters only do reflected) to eliminate errors in exposure caused by very bright, like snow, or very dark, like deep forest, scenes. In both cases a reflected light reading would underexpose the snow scene and overexposed the forest. Stand in the same light as the subject, usually by turning around and facing the opposite direction to the way the camera is facing, and take the reading. If shooting portraits, go up to the person and point the meter at the camera.
Hello Howard,
Thanks for the precision!
For portraits would you suggest using the lumisphere and aim towards the camera from the subject? Or use the lumigrid for reflected lighting and aim it at the subject?
The incident reading measures the light falling on your subject and this what you want for an accurate exposure for a portrait. The reflected light reading, using the lumigrid measures the average brightness of the entire scene your subject is in. If the background is dark, you will get a different reading than if the background is bright. You will overexpose the face if the background is dark. You’ll underexpose the face if the background is light
splendid !! Thanks a lot for Sekonic
Just be aware that we cannot take a speedlight or strobe reading with the analog meter from Sekonic (L-398A). It's a great meter for video, using with reflectors outside, or balancing the ratios for constant lights, but pointless for using with flash. No one seems to mention this explicitly.
The Sekonic Flashmate does all the same things the so-called "Studio Deluxe" does, PLUS it can measure studio strobes. I'm glad I have it in my bag, but don't goof up like I did!
Hi William Miles La Mont,
You're right I have to mention that it is not a meter for speedlight or strobe.
Thank you for your comments.
THANK YOUUUUU
Thanks! Really useful!
Hi Rafa,
I am glad that the video has served you, thanks for your comments!
Trying to hard to follow this video since everything is on the 398A and not this one. I appreciate the time you took to present this. Does anyone know where I can find a manual or another video?
Note this video is not showing the L-398. Check out ua-cam.com/video/MrRJKeO1erA/v-deo.html
Confusing. Would help with talking and marking onscreen the areas mentioned or highlighting them.
Nice work!
Hi, thanks for your vídeo! I bought a used campera and what a surprise that this so wonderful tool vale with it, for free!!! I'm just learning yo use ir for portraits and it's terrific, the way that it gives an accurate medition! What if use as you say and shoot my speedlight to calculate the exposicition? May this light damage My exposimeter?
no va a medir flash...es solo para luz contínua de cualquier fuente...led,el sol, tungsteno, neón , dichro....etc
Mic fright?? Narration would have made this so much better!
Thank you
Hi Christian,
Thank you for watching my videos!
What about the Cine settings for movie cameras? No one goes over that.
Hi Garras Porgratix,
Sorry but I know very little about movie cameras, that's why I don't dare to talk about their configuration.
@@photographyandmore i see. Its the same concept as the still camera speeds vs f stop but on movie cameras, the most common speeds used is 16 frames/second for silent movie or 24 fps for talkies then you view what is the recommended f stop. Since most film cameras have a fixed shutter angle of 204 degrees as in my b&h 70 HR, the meter gives the f-stop as a fixed value. If you van vary the shutter angle, then some simple math has to be used to arrive at the optimum f stop in that case. If anyone has a shorter explanation, please chime in.
Whenever you install the lumigrid, always remove the slide.
Hello John,
Thanks for the advice!
my 1st light meter in 83
Looks more like you were playing around than teaching !
What is the 1/2x x2 x4 for ??? and how do you measure more than a 500 sec ...??? and what is 1M 2 M ???
Struggling here...please help :-)))
Hi Martinw Pettinger,
These marks are the exposure Exposure Multipliers, use x1/2 when desiring to cut the exposure to 1/2 (lesser) and the x2 and x4 positions to multiply the exposure by 2 and 4 (greater).
1M means 1/1000 sec. and 2M 1/2000 sec.
If you need to use shutter speeds above 1/2000 seconds you can make an equivalent exposure from the measurement you get in 1/2000 sec.
For example if 1/2000 sec. The lightmeter indicates use F8, then equivalent exposure is 1/4000 sec. F5.6 or 1/8000 sec. F4.
@@photographyandmore A big thank you and a Happy New Year to you :-)
For God's sake cut the b***dy music and talk through what you are doing.
What is the difference between lumidisc and lumigrid ?
Hi John,
The Luminidisc it's employed for illumination contrast adjustment and illuminance measurement.
The Luminigrid it's used to reflected ligth measurement.
Great stories are behind a photographic equipment!
Tell us how this equipment came to your hands leaving a comment below.
Awesome and very informative video of how to setup and use the Sekonic L-398.
Long story short (I'll try), I was a semi-professional back in day before digital existed. Other than a decent camera, the right film, and mastering the nearly enumerate settings, I learned early on a separate light meter is an absolute essential piece of equipment to have in the camera bag. Fade out...digitals became famous, I switched...fade back in after nearly 20yrs...back to my original well stored Nikon FE2 35mm FILM camera.
Regardless the medium used, CCD/CMOS image sensor or film, besides the ability to focus, controlling the light is absolutely essential. Without light there can be no photograph. Besides the camera, having and using a photographic light meter is imperative if you want better than average images.
The Sekonic L398 is probably the most basic yet all encompassing meter that's been around for decades. No batteries required. After so many years I had nearly forgotten how to setup and use it.
This video more than replaces a user manual which was all there was way back when. No internet, cell phones, satellite or cable TV.
Without light there can be no photograph. Harnessing the light you have, there's no limit to the photographic possibilities.
Kudos to Photography And More!
@@HarleyUTubr Thank you very much for your comments and for sharing this story with us!
very uninformative video
Annoying muzak and NO commentary - could be so much better.
I'm so confused
Hi Lunchroom,
Why you are confused?