@@melancholiaenshrinesalltriumphyeah a lot of UK trad climbers feel having mats reduces the grade. The UK E (Extreme) grading system is numbered partly on the basis of risk and seriousness, so having mats below a route reduces the E grade. Many extremes put up in the 80s and 90s without mats now have people stacking loads of mats under them. Depends on your ethical stance. If you don't want risk, toprope ;-)
Now & then a person comes along who is truly inspiring! One of the most admirable people of this generation. "Dave you f*cking idiot" says so much. I hope he knows his value as well as his insignificance.
I feel bad for him taking the fall, but I love that his attitude is to take responsibility for it, not the rock, the weather or the gods. Just himself.
What a first trad belay experience...! She seemed good-humored but from my perspective it's not very responsible to bring along a novice belayer on such a serious route. Glad he didn't deck on her.
If I remember, this is off the movie about Natalie Berry (I think) - Transition? The route itself is a Julian Lines line... it's a harder extension of Dave's route 'Hold Fast'... there's a vid of Jules taking a solo fall from even higher up with no pads and walking away completely unscathed. ua-cam.com/video/_WzYni4QjOI/v-deo.html
Complacency checks are always good. Would a second or third crashpad have changed the ancle injury outcome? Glad Dave walked away from here. And to all ye non trad climbing ethics bolting trigger fingers I say: Freedooooom! ;-)
What should she do with her tiny body to a man falling on her from 20 feet? Ease the climber's fall at the cost of her being crushed, or keep him in balance in the split second while he's hurling towards the ground? Best she could have done is not hold the rope at all, and instead position the mat in the landing zone.
The fact you were at the utmost point of failure when you say “shit”, still go for it, stick it and absolutely grip the hell out of it. Gnarly man
"I don't think I'd belayed anyone on a trad route before" - still hadn't belayed anyone on a trad route after either, to be fair :P
Dave is one of my all time climbing heroes. For sure. I've learned a lot from him on YT and in his books. Top bloke.
So you ARE mortal then! Well done for showing fails as well as all your amazing successes. Be careful Dave, you’ve nothing left to prove. 👍
Good move bringing the pad! Glad you are OK. Thank you for sharing
Dave is the man, one of the absolute best..
send this to anyone who says you shouldn't do trad with a bouldering mat below you
do people actually say this? having a pad below you sounds pretty sensible.
I was one of those people until a couple of days ago, when I took an 8m groundfall. Might start using a pad, after my leg recovers of course...
@Pete is never wrong the same ones saying how they were "Elvis-ing" on the Sev 4a next door to you 😅
@@melancholiaenshrinesalltriumphyeah a lot of UK trad climbers feel having mats reduces the grade. The UK E (Extreme) grading system is numbered partly on the basis of risk and seriousness, so having mats below a route reduces the E grade. Many extremes put up in the 80s and 90s without mats now have people stacking loads of mats under them. Depends on your ethical stance. If you don't want risk, toprope ;-)
Sky hooks are awesome, the look on people's faces when you ab off one then give the rope a little flick to remove it. Priceless! 😂
Now & then a person comes along who is truly inspiring! One of the most admirable people of this generation. "Dave you f*cking idiot" says so much. I hope he knows his value as well as his insignificance.
well said.
That Pad turned out to be a genius idea.
I feel bad for him taking the fall, but I love that his attitude is to take responsibility for it, not the rock, the weather or the gods. Just himself.
Sky hooks look absolutely horrifying! Thumbs up for helmet though and glad you got away with "only" your ankle hurt!
Fun to see that it isn't always perfect
'I got it... I got it... I don't got it..." Great clip but something tells me he sends it, eventually, I hope! :)
woot; didn't see that coming
Don't die Dave! You're one of my favourite climbers D: How long ago was this?
This was back in 2014/2015 !
@@HotAches Could you start writing in the description what years the clips you publish are from? Cheers
Bloody hell that was a good fall!
What a first trad belay experience...!
She seemed good-humored but from my perspective it's not very responsible to bring along a novice belayer on such a serious route. Glad he didn't deck on her.
Is this route really just a single hook for all the gear and E10? May as well be soloing...
lucky to have that pad!
💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻keep the spirit..🙏🙏
If I remember, this is off the movie about Natalie Berry (I think) - Transition? The route itself is a Julian Lines line... it's a harder extension of Dave's route 'Hold Fast'... there's a vid of Jules taking a solo fall from even higher up with no pads and walking away completely unscathed.
ua-cam.com/video/_WzYni4QjOI/v-deo.html
Jeez, proper.
Same route as that solo fall! How high was Dave's fall?
Dusk a lot less than Julian Lines fall IIRC
@@largeformatlandscape I know, hence asking how high Dave's fall was.
@@crescentfuze a 1 second free fall is 16 feet. He was almost falling for that long.
Wow nasty. You were lucky Dave.
Complacency checks are always good. Would a second or third crashpad have changed the ancle injury outcome? Glad Dave walked away from here. And to all ye non trad climbing ethics bolting trigger fingers I say: Freedooooom! ;-)
ummmmm not the ground lol. actually the fall mattress. if you really mean busness not sleepytime.
Belayer should have taken when he was obviously about to fall
Hahaha, good one!
Why on earth not wait for a dry day?
Because Scotland
You'd be there all year
You can do something. Ease the climber's fall or keep him in balance as you would do while bouldering.
What should she do with her tiny body to a man falling on her from 20 feet? Ease the climber's fall at the cost of her being crushed, or keep him in balance in the split second while he's hurling towards the ground?
Best she could have done is not hold the rope at all, and instead position the mat in the landing zone.
with such a beautiful belayer it is easy to overcommit. totally understand! ;P