My Top 10 Historical Fashion Drafting & Dressmaking Resources | Historical Sewing for Beginners

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  • Опубліковано 22 сер 2024

КОМЕНТАРІ • 106

  • @VBirchwood
    @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +38

    Thank you all for watching! One more free resource I did not mention in this video is the book database HathiTrust. I highly recommend the organisation to find archived or historical dressmaking books. What are some of your favourite dressmaking resources? 😊
    Edit: If sharing a resource, please don't put a link, as UA-cam will automatically mark your comment as spam and will delete it. Sadly, some of your comments (if they contained a website ending) have been automatically deleted by UA-cam's spam filtre before I had a chance to respond to them. Please know I did get a chance to read many of them, unfortunately I just don't have the option to respond 😞

    • @annastarhova5165
      @annastarhova5165 3 роки тому +3

      I think Foundations revealed is also a helpful website for both beginners and advanced!
      Thank you for all your videos V. Birchwood♥️

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +4

      @@annastarhova5165 Thank you, Anna! FR is great, and they have a few free resources which is always beneficial. I noticed your comment earlier, so I'm really happy that you saw this edit, as your comment disappeared before I could reply! 😊

    • @annastarhova5165
      @annastarhova5165 3 роки тому +2

      @@VBirchwood Thank you so much for the information! I don't post many comments on UA-cam so I am not too sure how it works 😊

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +3

      @@annastarhova5165 That's perfectly understandable! It's a rule meant to protect accounts from spam, but it can be a pain sometimes when the link is actually an important/useful one 😊

  • @carosamchwa3081
    @carosamchwa3081 3 роки тому +27

    If you want to draft your own stays and corset patterns, I recommend Stays and Corsets by Mandy Barrington. The instructions are very clear, and she provides you with a few historical patterns to draft with your own measurements. I’m in the process of drafting a pair of 1776 stays right now, and am very excited to see how they turn out! I hope this is helpful!

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +3

      Thank you for the tips! I’m sure they’ll be extremely useful to someone! ❤️

  • @DoingStuffWithDiana
    @DoingStuffWithDiana Рік тому +15

    OMG GIRL. I have to confess I have been binging your stuff these past few days. 🤣 I am SO READY to make my first gown. You have given me the confidence. THANK YOU!

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  Рік тому +1

      Hahah thank you so much! So glad you’re loving the channel 🥰

  • @findelka1810
    @findelka1810 Рік тому +5

    Great compilation of resources! I would like to add The Workwoman’s Guide for 1830s (and 40s), I have the reprint of the 1838 one and use it extensively. Best one ever if you are into that period. From women’s wear to men’s wear, children’s wear, household items, whatever you can imagine. The back contains hundreds of patterns, you only have to scale it up.

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  Рік тому

      Glad you enjoyed the video! Definitely a great resource, thanks for sharing it 😊

  • @SimpleDesertRose
    @SimpleDesertRose 3 роки тому +15

    I have a number of patterns from Truly Victorian. I love their patterns but sometimes the instructions are lacking. I started out with their walking skirt pattern and kept trying to make sense of it. In the end I watched Bernadette Banner's video on how she made hers before it finally all made sense. I've heard a number of people comment about the instructions for TV. I really like Black snail patterns. I bought a regency dress pattern from them recently after a simplicity (epic) fail. In hopes of saving both dress and all the lovely linen I was making it out of. The bodice is a much better fit than the Simplicity, but I still need to modify it so that it fits better in the chest. I haven't gotten Izabela's books yet, but they are on my list. I do own all the Janet Arnold books though. They are full of good information. I highly recommend using wrapping paper with the grid for drafting their patterns. Makes it easier to copy that pattern from the book then modify from there. I recently discovered archives from another costuber for crocheted lace. Lots of good information from there.

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +4

      Thank you for your comment, DesertRose! T.V. instructions can be a bit more challenging, I agree, though the fact that they are already graded helps so much, as resizing can be an incredibly difficult task for those just getting started (or at least it definitely was in my experience haha). Izabela's books are so good! I have the second one and it's amazing, so many ensembles from it on the "to-sew" list. Wrapping paper is excellent for P of F, I also just buy pre-gridded paper and that works like a charm too 😊

    • @kaitlynnp582
      @kaitlynnp582 Рік тому

      I've used about 4 TV patterns now, and I only had a lot of trouble with one section of one pattern. I still have no idea what the instructions wanted me to do because I just took a guess and hoped.

  • @shimma25
    @shimma25 3 роки тому +13

    Another fantastic video, I’m learning so much about historical fashion through your recent episodes, it truly is fascinating! Keep up the great work!

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +2

      Thank you, Shimma25! I'm so happy to hear that these videos have been educational 😊

  • @petapendlebury9024
    @petapendlebury9024 3 роки тому +4

    And also in the free category is your local library. I don't know about other countries but here in the UK we have an inter library loan service. Currently I have a request in for Costume in Detail which is heavily recommended in the costuming sewing world but as it is out of print is extremely expensive here. My local library didn't have a copy but another one had it their stores. Shortly I will be able to browse it at home for free! Same with Patterns of Fashion (as I understand it the School of Historical Dress has reacquired the copyright for these and the new books should be out starting this August). Only just discovered you but really enjoying your videos.

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +2

      Thank you very much, Peta! And yes, local library is a great idea. I haven’t really thought of them much since the pandemic began as they’ve been closed up for so long (I’m in the U.K. too) but now I guess some of them are at least once again open, so thanks for the reminder!

    • @petapendlebury9024
      @petapendlebury9024 3 роки тому

      @@VBirchwood ours here in North Wales continued offering click and collect (ordering through the online catalogue) throughout so we were lucky. They've just started offering timed visits! 📚

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +1

      That’s lovely to know about, thanks! 😊

  • @craftingwithcasca
    @craftingwithcasca 3 роки тому +3

    This was so useful! Quite a few resources I hadn't heard of. I use Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns for making 1890s stuff and find it really good.

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +1

      I'm so happy to hear that this was so useful! Thank you for the comment, Casca 😊 A.V.F.P. is perfect for 1890s definitely!

  • @robintheparttimesewer6798
    @robintheparttimesewer6798 3 роки тому +2

    A very good list. I hadn’t realized that there were so many pattern companies out there. I don’t drape I find a pattern that gives the lines I’m looking for then modify to get what I want.

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +1

      Thanks for your comment, Robin! Modifying a flat pattern can definitely be a great way to get a desired silhouette. (I'm only starting to drape so modifying flat patterns has been the way.) There really are so many historical pattern companies out there, it's quite amazing.

  • @EmeraldVideosNL
    @EmeraldVideosNL Рік тому +1

    Glad you are positive about Blacksnail. I have a Victorian walkingskirt pattern of theirs, and I'm terrified to start or even start looking for fabric.

  • @amberg6115
    @amberg6115 3 роки тому +4

    Listen I am drooling over some of the truly victorian patterns rn, so this video coming out now may just be the nudge to get them (^-^). Thank you for all of the recommendations! And great video! Happy sewing Lady V!

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +1

      Hahaha I’m sorry to create so much temptation to go buy them! But at the same time am not sorry because of all the beautiful things I’m sure you will create 😊 I hope you have a beautiful day and thank you for your comment Amber!

  • @mahabiru
    @mahabiru 6 місяців тому

    I have been able to check out a number of these books ( and more) from our library system (which allows access to all the books in the public libraries across the state). This has been hugely helpful as extra $$$ is scarce these days.

  • @distaff2935
    @distaff2935 2 роки тому +1

    Thanks for the tip. I am familiar with most of these sources, but the E. Friendship book, Making Working Women's Costume is new to me. That one is getting purchased ASAP!
    I also like the Dressmaker's Guide 1840 -1865, by Elizabeth Stewart Clark, Second Edition.

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому

      Thanks for watching! The E. Friendship book is great!

  • @katwitanruna
    @katwitanruna 3 роки тому +2

    I like Katherine Holkeboer’s Patterns for Theatrical Costumes which teaches several sizing methods in the front followed by patterns in three sizes for each outfit. I think it’s particularly good for folx who are not looking for accuracy so much as look.

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +1

      Thank you for the suggestion!

    • @katwitanruna
      @katwitanruna 3 роки тому

      @@VBirchwood If you haven’t had a chance to see it, it’s a really good book that covers ancient Egypt to 1915. I used mine so much the pages began coming loose so I ended up three hole punching the entire book so I could keep it in a binder!

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +2

      Hahaha that’s brilliant

  • @mrsgingernoisette
    @mrsgingernoisette 8 місяців тому

    Anna's archive, I found Patterns of Fashion there!

  • @LiljaHusmo
    @LiljaHusmo 3 роки тому +3

    Trying again as my comment included a sneaky link haha,
    Lovely video of lots of cool resources!
    Archive is such a great resource (and you can find Dressmaking Up To Date / the original Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques there!)

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +1

      Hahaha thanks Lilja for the updated comment. And thanks for watching of course 😊

  • @ericalarochelle3779
    @ericalarochelle3779 2 роки тому

    This is such a great complication of different resources; the variety include make it useful to either the beginner or expert, while also introducing the beginner to resources of greater use in their future. Thanks for putting it together!

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому +1

      Thank you Erica! I'm glad you find it so useful 😊

  • @watsonmelon6575
    @watsonmelon6575 3 роки тому +1

    This is exactly what I need, thank you!

  • @jaehaywardkent
    @jaehaywardkent 3 роки тому +1

    your videos are so great vasi, keep it up!!💕💕

  • @EricHowl
    @EricHowl Рік тому +1

    I dont make dresses but this was a lovely video ;)

  • @tishie42
    @tishie42 2 роки тому

    Wow! Thank you, so much time was put into the research you've put forward here. Especially the archive work. Those are all great.

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому

      It's my pleasure! Thank you for your comment 😊

  • @jessicabey275
    @jessicabey275 2 роки тому

    I am so happy that there is videos explaining things.. I am reading your first link for Archive

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому +1

      Amazing! I hope you enjoy reading them 😊

    • @jessicabey275
      @jessicabey275 2 роки тому

      @V. Birchwood - Historical Fashion lol I don't understand it, but it's fascinating

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому +1

      @@jessicabey275 the writing can be really inaccessible sometimes! Lol

  • @grahamthebaronhesketh.
    @grahamthebaronhesketh. Рік тому

    Awesome.

  • @annavafeiadou4420
    @annavafeiadou4420 2 роки тому

    Thank you for all the sources I'm seriously thinking of black snail redingote too , I'm now mostly doing dolls stuff I'm in prcess of making a redingote for a las reinas doll based on a pattern from pemberley threads and one for barbie based on a free pattern from LACMA which is one size like scaled in mini to show the pieces but an experienced in the craft can use it to make it for humans.Thanks again for all the resourches and the tips!!!

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому +1

      The Black Snail redingote pattern is great, I highly recommend!

    • @annavafeiadou4420
      @annavafeiadou4420 2 роки тому

      @@VBirchwood Thank you so much!!!! I'm surely going to try it next month just when I ll finish my current projects.

  • @sh36
    @sh36 3 роки тому +4

    Er, maybe 15th century menswear just isn't her thing, but I've bought several Reconstructing History patterns which were just not good. The worst one was like a pattern that had never been tested, half the pieces didn't even match up. All of the patterns have tried from her had weird silhouette issues and sleeves which basically needed to be re-drafted to use. Maybe she does better with later time periods, or with women's clothing. I highly recommend anyone who is thinking about buying a RH pattern to look up reviews for it before purchasing.

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 роки тому +1

      That could be! Some of her patterns are older drafts as well. Though I know currently a lot is being updated. RH's 18th and 19th century patterns are incredible honestly. A decent portion of what I've sewn has been RH. I'm sorry to hear though that you had a bad experience with the 15th century menswear patterns. Have you emailed Kass to let her know your experience? It could be useful to provide feedback in order to create certain improvements.

    • @findelka1810
      @findelka1810 Рік тому +2

      @S H the RH 1795-1810 riding habit pattern was useless as well. Worse than useless, I was so upset, I almost abandoned the entire project. I’ve never had to do 4 mock-ups for a garment and it NEVER fit. I had to size it up from the Janet Arnold book in the end (I sure did learn resizing during this!). And it turned out to be a VERY different pattern. And finally it did fit me. But I was sweating blood over that one project. So never again RH. Truly Victorian is the best, Black Snail is also good.

    • @169esmeralda
      @169esmeralda 4 місяці тому +2

      I’m sorry but Reconstructing History patterns are notorious in the historical costuming community as being problematic. I’m glad you had a good experience but when I was a beginner I was so frustrated with these patterns because a lot of the pieces simply weren’t graded properly. It’s unfortunate because they do offer time periods that are hard to find. Truly Victorian is the gold standard and even intermediate and sometimes beginner sewists can use them because their instructions are so clear

    • @sh36
      @sh36 4 місяці тому

      @@169esmeralda Notorious is an excellent description of Reconstructing History. I actively discourage folks in my reenactment group from buying her patterns. It's genuinely easier to use the Medieval Tailor's Assistant to self draft a pattern when compared to trying to sort out the mess RH sells.

    • @Monique-inv
      @Monique-inv 4 місяці тому

      ​@@findelka1810 Ugh I've had the same problem, unfortunately we (me and my friends) couldn't find other pattern of XVIII century so we purchased them and kept our fingers crossed. We purchased 3 different models and found that they were the same, with only slight differences although the image on the cover was very different. Also the model did not match the image. I really don't understand how this is possible

  • @gamedev251
    @gamedev251 9 місяців тому

    thank you

  • @annazarzycka7958
    @annazarzycka7958 2 роки тому

    hi i was wondering if you could possibly do a video on fabrics, colour and patterns trough history (like a timeline) and what garment the different fabrics were used for also love your content btw 😊

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому

      Hi Anna! Thanks so much. Unfortunately, I don’t think I’d be qualified to do so, as I only really research 1740s-1890s myself, but Nicole Rudolph has an amazing videos on different fabrics. If you look at her channel, there’s one on silks, linens, and wools from what I can remember.

  • @lisez4600
    @lisez4600 3 роки тому

    thank you, it is very helpful 😊

  • @classyZ7
    @classyZ7 3 роки тому

    Thank you!

  • @FirstLadyyyyyyy
    @FirstLadyyyyyyy 2 роки тому

    So beautiful. :)

  • @wisconsinwoodsman1987
    @wisconsinwoodsman1987 3 місяці тому

    Any tips for men's patterns?

  • @LackToast_Intolerant
    @LackToast_Intolerant Рік тому

    what a fabulous resource, thank you!
    I was wondering, do the patterns in the Making Working Women's Costume book require size grading? If so, where could I find working dress patterns that have already been graded?

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  Рік тому

      You’re welcome! They come in a few sizes but will need to be altered or graded if someone isn’t those sizes. I really like the no. 118 from Laughing Moon which is a wrapper pattern. I’ve used it many times and wear wrappers a lot.

  • @2enigma8
    @2enigma8 3 місяці тому

    Where can I find the pattern for the Sontag that your friend made? Thanks

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  3 місяці тому +1

      She came up with the pattern herself based off of the one is Prior Attire’s accessories book, so unfortunately I’m not sure about a pattern

  • @thehadster7043
    @thehadster7043 2 роки тому

    This is information has been so valuable to me. Thank you. One observation. Recreating History, and Black Snail Patterns have changed their website design. I could not find many of the patterns I saw on the screen shots you included on the Recreating History website; same with Black Snail. Maybe it is my browser. Do you know if the website design has changed for Recreating History? The website I access does not have a menu on the left, there is a drop down menu running across the top. And it seems that many patterns have been removed.....

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому

      My pleasure! Reconstructing History did launch a new site a couple months ago, as they switched e-commerce platforms. All the patterns should, however, still be there as everything got transferred to the new site to my knowledge, but perhaps the navigation is just slightly different now. For Black Snail Patterns, I think their site is mostly the same, but they have an Etsy shop as well as a website too.

    • @thehadster7043
      @thehadster7043 2 роки тому

      @@VBirchwood Thank you for the prompt reply! I see corset patterns on the screen shot you show for Recreating History that I simply cannot find on the website. When I go to 19th century clothing, 16th century and earlier patterns are in that category. When I search for corset and/or stays, I get only a few results and none of the patterns on your screen shot are visible. So...

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому

      I just checked now and the stays and corset patterns are still on the site, under 18th century patterns and 19th century patterns respectively. The image has just changed, as now sometimes the image is not of the pattern cover, but rather of an example of a completed garment made from the pattern. So the stays pattern now shows an image of completed stays and the corset pattern of a completed corset. Hope that helps!

    • @thehadster7043
      @thehadster7043 2 роки тому

      @@VBirchwood Thank you! I've been viewing many of your uploads, and I've learned so much. I particularly found valuable your video on cleaning historical clothing, the English stitch, and the resource videos. Thank you!

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому

      Thanks so much! I really appreciate your kind words 😊

  • @sillyjellyfish2421
    @sillyjellyfish2421 2 роки тому

    meanwhile me light box tracing pinterest patterns from historic magazines onto paper and then blowing them up using the square technique :D

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому

      I mean that’s very clever and works super well! 🥰

    • @sillyjellyfish2421
      @sillyjellyfish2421 2 роки тому

      @@VBirchwood thanks. I love your channel by the way :)

  • @liisaelts7522
    @liisaelts7522 2 роки тому

    You mentioned in a different video that you hve Russian speaking skills. Have you tried searching the Russian resources? In Estonia, if I were to look for clothes manufacturing (if that expression is correct) and historic pattern making, I would go to older Russian resources, because they tend to have better scematics and information. Alas my Russian is rudimentary, so I can't give specifics, but I have seen some from 1960s regarding historic costuming for theaters. They had schematic illustrations and you'd have to size the patterns in real life.

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому

      I have read some indeed, but I read very slowly in Russian that it can make it a bit of a barrier sometimes. I’m a much more efficient speaker, which is the case for a lot of people who learn a language in childhood. I’m actually going through a Russian book right now on Tatar fashion as there are only a couple resources still available and mostly in russian, so in order to learn about my ethnic dress, I had to bite the bullet and challenge my brain a bit 😊 thanks for mentioning the 1960s resource though! I’ll have to see if I can find it

  • @Taliesin6
    @Taliesin6 2 роки тому

    I've noticed many historic patterns have goofy drawings instead of pictures of an actual garment.
    any idea why ?
    I'm slightly put off by it, it's as if they never even made the pattern so they don't have a finished product to take a picture off ?

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому

      I think it’s a number of factours. Firstly, historical pattern companies are very small, often one or two person run operations. Paying either for a very expensive camera to take photos or paying for a photoshoot costs a lot of money. Secondly, many historical patterns are older and have potentially been around since the 1980s or 1990s, so drawings would have made more sense then since getting a super high quality film camera, taking photos, developing them all, then scanning them in, would have been a massive ordeal and expensive. Then also sometimes the style and lines are much easier to see when drawn because they’re a bit cleaner. Black and white copies of photos tend to get quite muddled and it’s harder sometimes to see what’s going on. Most pattern companies do test and make at least mockups of all their patterns. Making a mock-up of a pattern still guarantees the sizes are correct, but the mockups might not be pretty enough to photograph for people to see the “final result”. Many companies now tend to have customer made examples of their garments though on their websites.

  • @jessicabey275
    @jessicabey275 2 роки тому

    Thank you!

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому +1

      Hope the resources were helpful 😊

    • @jessicabey275
      @jessicabey275 2 роки тому

      @V. Birchwood - Historical Fashion yes they are, I just don't know how to navigate archive. Org. I searched sewing to see what would come up then I started to filter by date but then I had to stop. When I'm done trying to change this dress pattern to a v neck (🤯)..... I am going to continue my search

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому +1

      It can be a bit hard to navigate definitely and mostly time consuming! In the description box of this video I actually have included some links to useful resources I’ve found on Archive, so perhaps those would be useful for you!

    • @jessicabey275
      @jessicabey275 2 роки тому

      @V. Birchwood - Historical Fashion yeah I have downloaded some!
      I Hava a question for you, I don't know if you would know or not. I am making this dress and I have altered it for a v neck but now the material is to thin. I am pretty sure it's cotton lawn (it was my duvet cover) and it is fragile and thin so I am going to sew 2 layers of it but whatbIbdont know is how to sew those 2 together. I am thinking sewing sides together for the neckline and arm holes since it's sleeveless and then finish off the seams either french or flat felled.
      What do you think or did that make any since... or how would you do it?

    • @VBirchwood
      @VBirchwood  2 роки тому +1

      @@jessicabey275 Would it be three layers total, so outer cotton lawn, and then an inter layer and a lining? or just two layers of the lawn and the "lining"?