World's First Actual 40w Diode Laser The xTool D1 Pro Cutting Test
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- Опубліковано 22 січ 2023
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link to laser module used in this video
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The Diode Laser race is still underway and Xtool has taken the lead with this 40w output diode laser module. In this video I focus on cut testing and am astonished at what 40 watts of power is capable of when paired with 40 psi of air assist.
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XTool 40w Laser Module www.xtool.com/products/40w-laser-module-for-d1-pro?ref=Chadscustom&
Link to Full Laser Setup 10w plus 40w
www.xtool.com/collections/machine/products/d1-pro-10w-laser-machine-40w-laser-module?ref=Chadscustom&
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You can make scale armor and gloves out of metal.
@@TheWadetube oh man most epic idea yet!!!
@@ChadsCustomCreations which country
Im from nepal
intrested
@@maheshworshrestha2645 what are you talking about?
Really well done video. Thanks for showing all the different cuts.
Thank you so much, I really enjoy your video’s as well!
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thanks! Have a great one!
Great video bro!
Hey thank you Matt, that means a lot coming from a creator as successful as yourself!
*Well done video Chad!* I'm more a fan of the 5 & 10W diodes since they're engravers, but this was some impressive cutting. I have done a lot of testing on the air assist _(Also a CAT owner)_ and found over 15psi lowers the cutting ability. 9-15psi is my sweet spot.
Hello Rich, I really enjoy your videos and what you’re doing for the laser community. This is good to know about the diminishing returns on the PSI I’ll have to play around with that and see if I can improve my cutting even further.
So great! I need this one !
I love it!
It's really amazing how powerful these things are getting. Starting to regret getting my 90w co2
Co2 lasers still have their advantages. I have a 90w and I will still be using that for all my production work.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thanks for the response Chad. I’m trying to pick, and looking at building a Co2 only because I need to cut acrylic (clear and colored). I don’t have any other justification (yet, that I know of). That said, will the 40w Diode cut clear acrylic?
@@TheJacklwilliams no sadly it won’t do clear I tried.
Super cool, great video!
Thank you!
The wavelength of the laser seems to be around 450 nm (approximately blue). If true, this wavelength will not lose much power when going through 1 cm of water. This can be extremely useful because you can cut the metal without heating it. This means you won't have to heat treat the metal after you cut it. No slow warping of the metal over time. You could try:
glass dish, 1 cm water, metal sheet.
This would be a very valuable capability. Please try this and let us know if it works.
Oh that’s super interesting I definitely gotta try that.
Hey! Regarding your "small circle" idea to basically start the cut, there's an option in lightburn to turn the laser on at the start of a cut for x.xx ms (helpful for thick wood also). It's under the advanced tab where you would edit the cut power/speed, labeled "Start Pause Time" (with cut through enabled).
Yes for some strange reason I cannot get it to function on my xtool. It works on my co2 lasers with the ruida controllers but for some reason xtool ignores it. Any idea why?
@@ChadsCustomCreations Do you know the controller type? I have an Atom stack S10 pro that it works just fine on, though I don't know the controller type
@@FirstToFall hmm interesting I figured all gcode machines would have the same issue but if your Atom Stack is working maybe I have got something wrong I’ll try messing around with it some more thanks for letting me know.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Sure thing! I tested mine again just now to make sure I wasn't hallucinating it, and it does work. If you'd like to shoot me an email or have me email you I'd be willing to troubleshoot to see if I could help make it work, it's pretty game-changing if you set it up right.
That's funny, I got the AtomStack 35W diode power, two weeks ago, and I am happy to see that I am not the only one doing cubes in any piece of wood I can found ! I now have plenty of wood cubes everywhere :)
For quality purpose I found that using multi-pass with higher speed give me better results than doing it in one or two passes at low speed
Oh I should definitely try the multiple passes more. I just heard someone saying if you can get that hole started in one pass you can extract the smoke out the bottom and achieve cleaner edges. So many variables to plays with still.
@@ChadsCustomCreations That's true, but IMHO, only if it can be done at reasonable speed (> 100mm/min), I would say it become false for thick wood that require slow speed because it create too much heat for to long time at the same location and heat radiate and carbonise even more. Yes so much parameters & testing, but I wonder if it's not what I prefer over doing real work :)
@@brunoaugier right real work is great and all but I like the research and development the most 🤣
what your saying definitely makes sense especially with it creating too much heat in one spot.
I just made another test, printing side by side two same squares with different parameters (20mm raw pine) :
A : 1000mm/min with 14 passes
B: 215mm/min width 3 passes
Both are approxmatly equivalent to a speed of 71mm/min (1000/14 = 71.43, 215/3 = 71.67)
The cut with 14 passes is better, fall by itself and have flat and uncarbonized cutted surfaces (also it seem it has fallen before the end maybe 12 or 13 passe)
The cut with 3 passes is not really usable, it was still a bit hooked, and it have non-planar and carbonized faces.
The surface finish of the 14 passes is really really far away beter.
Maybe laser are different and you wont get the same result, maybe yes.
Give it a try !
(as long as speed/number of passes is equal this does not change time or comsumption)
Oh this is super interesting and what type of air assist are you running?
I am also one of those that got the D1 Pro 20w just before xmas, lol . My thoughts are i will wait to see what their C02 laser will be like in March
Yeah definitely looking forward to seeing that I am wondering how it will be different from the makeblock
Well, I definitely am excited for this oxygen test :D
Coming soon.
Nice info, thanks
My pleasure thanks for coming back!
I really hope you were all wearing the right glasses designed for that laser when the shroud was off. The reflections off the material can cause permanent eye damage. I really hate these open air models because people don't know how careful you have to be with them.
Oh yes definitely I keep the glasses on even with the shroud on, enclosure is off mainly just for filming purposes.
If they didn't, they wouldn't be able to reply to your comment.
@@davidmiller4594 👁️👃❌
Quit being a safety Nazi. Let people live their lives
I am looking to purchase one expressly for powder coated tumblers. In your opinion do I really need a 40W? Or will a 20W do the job. Not worried about pushing mass quantities.
Hi. Great video. Have you tested or are you going to test clear acrylic? Would love to know if this would work on the colors that the 20w can't cut through. Thanks for the great info!
I actually did try white and clear it had no effect at all it’s just not the correct wavelength no matter how much power those specific colors just won’t work.
Though all the colors xtools have listed on their website materials list for the d1 would definitely work. I saw xtool cutting 15mm black acrylic no problem.
The co2 laser makes very quick work of clear acrylic, unfortunately the led ones just pass right through. It's the wavelength of the light that is the issue. Black will work because it absorbs the heat well.
I’m blown away by this makes me think about my co2 80w
It’s the cutting abilities for me seeing how skinny that beam stays is incredible.
Hey Chad, great work. i am building a desktop CNC with 400x400 working area. after watching your videos i am think of adding a laser module to it. just a thought... do you think you can add a water assist to this module with some mods of course? metal might have a more clean cuts.
I think with some mods that might be possible. I don’t believe I have seen water assist on a laser yet sounds fun!
Thank you for the video, super excited about the 40w. One major concern of mine is it's dot size, what is it?
Once I get the chance I’ll get out there and try to measure it.
Excited for mine to come in the mail. Bought it for a custom made machine. I'm annoyed XTOOL doesnt sell the module alone. So Sadly there's a bit of "Waste" Because I wont have a use for the rail it comes with. But either way It'll be nice to quick reverse engineer the laser and plug it up! Cutting results look great!
Oh awesome I would love to see your customer machine!
Ugh, I'm so jealous. I'm still waiting for mine to arrive.
Do you know when yours is set to arrive?
@Chads Custom Creations no I have not received a date yet. The only thing they have said is shipments will begin before valentine's day.
You can use a electronic valve instead of that manual one that you put on top. Its going to flop around and wear out your seal on the laser module. You can mount the electronic valve off to the side and it can be controlled via software either lightburn or what ever you use.
That’s a great idea , I wonder which pin on the board sends that signal. My Co2 laser uses one I’ll have to go take a look. Thank you Steven!
Hey man, just getting into the laser world and wanted to know, how often is your compressor kicking on with that setup? Considering forgoing their air assist and just using my compressor which is a very similar quiet compressor except it can do a bit more CFM at 40psi and assuming you're not always running it at 40?
When cutting I believe it is compressing the entire time but it’s so quiet I don’t really notice. I say 40psi cause that’s what it can maintain from that size nozzle, or at least that’s what it reads at my regulator.
Very cool!
Just had 2 questions since I'm trying to fine tune some technique with my 30W diode.
1. Is the space you create between the honeycomb plate and your work piece a means to keep the piece from burning on the bottom?
2. What is the surface material underneath the honeycomb plate?
Much appreciated
If your piece is directly on the honeycomb you will see little reflections burns I do like lifting stuff up too cause it makes it easier to know if you cut all the way through.
There is a sheet of aluminum under the honeycomb absorbs all the heat really well.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Awesome, thanks for the response. Definitely getting the reflection burns, but I'm also getting the piece starting on fire from underneath... Been tough finishing a project when that happens, lol. Usually even running at 5mm/sec at 100% with air assist, it will start on fire. I'll try creating that space to keep from retaining the heat on the piece.
Thanks again.
do you have a video on how to change over to the 40w
I did film it all with the intention of sharing it but Buster Beagle 3D actually included it in his video I would recommend checking his out. It starts at about minute 2.
ua-cam.com/video/htZ2kQXheNU/v-deo.html
Have you done an Amp draw to see power consumption when used
I have not but the new power supply says 100-240V 2.8A input
25V 8.0A output
Great video; I appreciate it. I have the xtool pro, and I've been trying to cut clear acrylic and have not been successful. Do you know if it will cut acrylic? If so, what are the settings?
Sadly blue diodes like this apparently no matter how much power will only cut black, red, yellow, lime green, deep green as far as I know. Xtool has a list of colored acrylics on their materials list for the XTool that it does work on.
Co2 lasers have the correct wavelength for cutting all acrylics as far as I know.
For clear material like acrylic the co2 laser works best because the wavelength is IR so it gets absorbed by material but the led modules are a different wavelength.
Impressive diode
I am definitely impressed
Great viddy. Got mine in but haven’t had a chance to swap out parts. Do you know if the IR and 20w will work on the new gantry and with new motherboard?
I liked the pink foam part!
Thank you, yes all the pro modules will work on the new setup.
If I wanted to set up for primarily laser engraving anodized aluminum then possibly expand into cutting wood parts, what unit & power would be ideal?
I think for anyone wanting to test the waters of laser engraving I think the xtool d1 pro platform is a perfect stepping stone and you can come in even at the 5w which can always be upgraded to the other head units as your needs for power and speed increase.
Hi. Do you know anything about the neje max4? Any thoughts regarding playing with a diode laser before graduating to fiber or co2?
I haven’t had any experience with the Neje lasers but my opinion is yes start with a diode and eventually graduate up to a co2 if you find the need for more speed and clear acrylic cutting needs.
I have a circular saw that can cut a 2x4 in 2 seconds or less! Lol. Good to see this laser has that much power. Thanks for the vid
Haha you have a good point but imagine if I had programmed in a interesting joinery technique instead of a straight cut.
What's even more impressive than its power is how it manages to keep such a thinly focused dot at 40mm! Also cutting steel is an interesting test because only powerful modules can do it, since it requires more power than the dot can spread in the surrounding metal during the same time. Definitely this one qualifies as a great tool for this. But can it still cut paper without cutting the table ?
Yes the tiny laser line I captured in that shot going through the 2x4 was impressive. Even with a 4” focal lens I don’t think I can do that in my co2 laser.
Thank you for sharing. I’m looking for one to use to cut 1/4 plywood for large door hangers (finished size 22-24 x 17-19 ish). Will this one work? Thanks!
That cut size might be a little to large i believe this cut area is about 17x17” but if you choose the 20W pro you can get an extension kit that i believe takes it to 48x17” I could be wrong but the specs will be on their site in and I have links in the description of this video.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thank you so much!
Not only thick materials but thin material much faster.
A big extension for a much larger machine so it can cut full size 4 x 8' or 5 x 10' sheets.
I am looking for a laser for leather engraving and cutting with an open bottom for long pieces to extend for gunslings with a small amount of engraving on them , which should I look into and wattage
I think the 20w D1 pro would be sufficient for your needs. Links in the description.
I literally just purchased a 20w laser from xtool 😂 now this is the thanks i get lol I thought I was getting the latest version.
I know it’s frustrating it’s cool though because now people will have different pricing options on where they are comfortable coming in at. The amount of power in that 20w is still pretty insane.
True. I think I’ll be ok with the 20w though. Good reviews, keep ‘em coming 👍🏽
have you ever tried any EVA foam? would love to hear about it
These do great with EVA foam
Hi can you try on cutting clear acrylic with that xtool 40watt laser head
I did still doesn’t work 🥲
Really nice. I have the D1 pro with 10w laser. Can I buy this to upgrade it? Nothing else needed?
As far as I understand it only the pro models will be compatible.
I'd like to see what it does on solid 4/4 hardwood. What is the focal length? Great video and impressive machine!
I’ve got some hard maple I’ll give it a shot. Thanks for watching! Not sure the focal length yet seems super long and skinny though looking back at that video of it cutting through the 2x4
Could you please cut denim (jeans fabric) in order to check how fast is it cutting badges?
I’ve been needing to test this for sure.
is it posible to cut foam with this model or the lower power one?lets say 50mm foam. thanks, or could you test it?
Yes it is quite easily go do a search for EVA foam and diode laser and you’ll see others doing it.
How do pro fiber lasers cut metal (also plasma cutters)? They first pierce a hole through the material and then they start doing the perimeter of the shape. Copy that and you can burn through that last sheet.
Yes you are right with the piercing technique. I was attempting it with drawing a tiny circle at the start point on the corner of the square but it seemed to me like I still was not able to get it to run slow enough to continue the cut. Maybe once I add oxygen we will see a cutting depth improvement.
can you turn the power down or increase travel to engrave things like acrylic or wood? I'd like the flexibility.
Yes of course, though diode lasers are limited to particular colors of acrylics.
Very interesting.
Quite 🤔
I have the Atomstack X20 Pro. Do you know if they're coming out with a 40W module? I NEED it.
I personally haven’t heard from them, but I would imagine they have something in the works coming out in soon.
It would be great to see this laser etch text onto metal.
Can it put test onto stainless and aluminium. Can it burn through anodised aluminium to leave test?
Go check out my video on using 20w to cut metal I also do etching test it does great on steel and stainless still.
What size is the laser in the Laguna machines… aren’t they 60w or bigger?
I believe so they are Co2 lasers which I have also. I have a 90w Co2 laser and it cannot cut like this. I am seeing benefits for diodes and co2 kind of depends on what you want to do.
can you turn down the power and do intricate engraving?
Yes of course
How well does the 40w engrave/etch steel? Wondering if it does more than mark it like the 20w and 1064nm infrared heads.
I have had my 20w actually etching the steel I’ve tested. I haven’t personally tested the etching yet but I am sure it will eat at the metal based on my cutting test on steel.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thanks for the info. I would like to see how deep it will etch graphics or text in steel (stainless and carbon) and how good the resolution is for graphics and text. I'll keep watching to see if you demonstrate those capabilities.
Hi, what's it like at cutting through 2mm clear acrylic and 1mm clear PETG ?
Sorry blue lasers cannot cut clear. You’ll want a co2 laser. Xtool is about to release their version of a Co2 laser within a few months I would recommend waiting til you see that if you can wait.
It might as well be a new machine. Very interesting.
Yes it is interesting that they are not offering a kit with just the 40w 🤷♂️
@@ChadsCustomCreations Does the 10W will fit on the new gantry?
@@bneil4059 my 10w does not unmodified the cable connection is not right. But my 10w is the older D1 before the pro came out but they said 5-10-20w and RF will all fit as long as they are the pro versions. I just had the 20w on it and it was working great and easy to swap out.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Yeah, I contacted them, and they said I have to get 5w and replace the main module
Instead of dangerous oxygen, I would try helium. We use argon/helium for welding aluminum for greater heat. It’s possible that healing alone would work fit this, and it doesn’t burn, while protecting from the atmosphere, minimizing discoloration. What I would like to see them, or some other company, do, is to have a more powerful infra-red laser module. The current one does give good shallow engraving, but something along 4 watts would enable some cutting.
Great information here thank you for adding to the conversation and my thoughts for future testing!
Chad I have the D1 but not the pro can I upgrade to this if I didn’t have the pro
From Xtool live release sadly they said no. 😢
I'd love to see some real time footage of this cutting 1/8th (3mm) MDF.
I would bet we would see speeds greater than 10mm/s
Silly question: How do you keep the laser from cutting into the table, the floor, center-of-the-earth, etc.?
Valid question. The further away from the focus point the less powerful the laser beam is. Think child burning ants with a magnifying glass using the power of the fun. Though this laser does have a very long and skinny beam which I haven’t seen before.
Under this material I have a sheet of aluminum that does a really great job of thermal diffusion and never seems to even get marked.
Want one, Gotta get one, Will get one!!!!!
The want for more power is hard to resist. My first laser was a 2.5w 🤣
Where do you get your .25” mdf from?
They sell 2’x4’ sheets at Home Depot normally on an end cap.
Crazy! One question, what fittings did you use to connect the compressor to the Laser head; specifically coming out of the compressor quick connect?
Right it is getting insane. I put a link in the description to a fitting kit you can get it will have everything you need.
Will this new Circuit board/40W setup work with the Infrared laser? As of now, I just have to swap out lasers and power supply if i want to switch between my 10W and Infrared.
Yes it is set up and ready for the infared laser module also even comes with a nice metal focal point distance setter in the toolkit.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Great news! You da Man! I appreciate the quick response.
Very good test, thank you.
I would love this laser, but it does not cut clear acrylic :(
Maybe you have a good solution for this problem?
In this case, I will buy it without hesitation.
If clear acrylic is something you want to cut then a Co2 laser is the right choice.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thank you for your answer.
A solution to cut it with this diode laser?
I do not have free space at home for a CO2 laser.
XTOOL does not offer 40W head only kit, it appears that they are "bundling" 40W with 20W head. Is there any particular reason to have lower powered head as well, or is this simple a ploy to drum up costs since very few vendors offer 40W at this point?
I went and looked and I found that they have the 10w and 40w bundle the laser point on the 10w is a smaller dot size so if you were wanting to do very detailed works it would be good to have that combo. www.xtool.com/products/d1-pro-10w-laser-machine-40w-laser-module?ref=Chadscustom&
I've been thinking about hooking up oxygen to my laser as well.
To make anything burn you must have three things, oxygen, fuel, and heat. Take away any one of them and you will not have combustion. Oxygen does not burn on it's own. I don't understand why everyone thinks just because you use oxygen it is going to blow up. It is used everyday in acetylene torches.
hook up an inert gas like helium or argon instead and safe yourself the risk. Fires in oxygen rich environments have led to multiple accidents so there is really no pro to using it.
@@sageslarres helium and argon are not oxidizers so you would just be throwing your money away by using them. Oxygen is used all the time in cutting steel. It helps oxidize the steel so you can cut through it. What do you think is happening when you use an acetylene torch. So that is point in using it. No one is talking about filling the room with a high concentration of oxygen. Is the world just damn scared of everything?
I need to do mostly 0.032" - 0.063" 5052 H32 do you think it's capable to get a clean cut with a laser?
Not sure if that is different from what I was cutting, but I wasn’t able to cut my .032 steel. Adding oxygen might make a difference. I have a flashback arrestor ordered once I get the chance we will all see if adding gas will help the cutting power.
It looks like the charring gets worse the deeper you go. Is it because of heat build up? What if you paused between passes to let the heat disapate? Would you get cleaner cuts?
It’s definitely possible.
No, it's not possible. The more you are deep, the more you are far from the focal point. And the more you are far from the focal point, the more your beam will be large. And the more your beam is large, the more you get worse charring.
To get better results, you should pause and change the laser module eight after every pass. So if you found out that the first pass has cut 8mm deep, you should decrease the height by 8mm, and resume the next pass.
Mounted on a CNC machine with driven Z axe, all of this can be automated, for much better results.
I am new to the laser cutting world, I just wanted to know what is the honeycomb material that you are cutting on? and does the laser cut it like a waste board on a cnc router ?
Honeycomb cutting panel so far I haven’t seen anyone damage them like a CNC router does to their beds. www.amazon.com/dp/B0B156325P?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzchadddow-20&creativeASIN=B0B156325P&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.3AS04C0BGLQSK&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_m_asin
No, but the laser can go through it. So you want a metal plate, ceramic tile, or some kind of scrap board under it. The laser will probably be out of focus at that distance, but doing this will help protect anything under it.
@@8bitmuch705 yes you are right I should have said mine came with a plate of aluminum which protects my table and absorbs the heat really well.
How do you cut at such a slow speed? I can't cut with my 5.5w laser at anything below 350mm/s without flare ups.😮
40psi Air assist
At 40 watts, I'll have to say an enclosure is mandatory. Too much power == serious accidents (not like cutting off a finger, but eye damage). 40 watts is a bigger improvement for engraving and working with appropriate thickness materials (1/4" or less). Getting into CO2 laser power range (yes, lower end, but look how fast it went from 5 watts to 40 watts.. ). I'm hoping fiber laser prices will significantly drop. Please keep your cat away!🤣Good video Chad! Now get back to editing the next video in the shed saga!😁
Hahaha I am glad someone is enjoying the shed saga as much as I am!
@@ChadsCustomCreations isnt it 40W consumption/input power? CO2 laser can give 40W output power (i've got K40 co2 laser) and before i bought it, i was thinking about laser diode laser but every1 was rated with input power :D
@@diemfpv xtool is like the first company to stop with all the false marketing by giving input wattage and they give you output values so this thing has 8 5.5w diodes all lined up with mirrors and it produces 40w output.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thanx for info. 8x5.5w diodes sounds strange, i think i would not give u 40W output but... that doesnt matter - i would be scared to use it. It could make u blind rly fast.
@@diemfpv 5.5w would equal 44w but based on loss of power from reflection of mirrors they rate it at 40w even though their test with the optical light meter was reading 42w on the live UA-cam stream they did. It definitely is dangerous for anyone who doesn’t know what they are doing.
I need one of these laser cutters to cut metal that are atleast .020" of an inch in thickness. I cant wait until that day. At 40watt ,its still not enough. I am predicting 80-100watt will do it. Probably in a couple of more years.
You’re right it won’t be long till we get there.
The chance of high energy photons reflecting into your eye is beyond my risk tolerance level. I'd pay extra for an enclosure and a cheap camera to real-time view progress on my phone or PC.
You’re definitely right I’ll be setting up the enclosure on this very soon.
I see you already have the Pro. Can the D1 (10w) be upgraded? Thanks
Word from the company is no but go watch buster beagle 3D review of the 40w he says he thinks it might be a possibility with just the exception of not having the limit switches.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thank you
can we do deep engraving in steel with it??
I would say so but the chance of the steel warping is pretty high on thinner steel as it’s an incredible amount of heat. Xtool also has an IR laser module you can add that is the correct wavelength for metals. I still have to test that out and see what it can do.
Can I ask a favour?
The bottom removable lens, can you measure it for me please?
Sorry I missed this comment did you find your answer?
Thanks, nice video. Can it cut 6mm thick acrylic?
They can do black green, and a few other colors but not clear white and a few others. You can find a list of approved materials at xtool.com materials for xtool d1 pro
Appreciate the quick response.
I don't know if you're able to answer this, but it seems to me a pretty relevant question, only I have yet to find any answers, at all.
atezr v35 vs xtool 40w
output power: 35w vs 40w
spot size: 0.06x0.1mm vs 0.1x0.15mm
w/mm^2: 5833 w/*mnm^2 vs 2667 w/mm^2
In other words, in terms of actual performance, on paper, the atezr v35 outperforms the xtool 40w by a factor of 2.
Now, I'm reasonably certain that there are important factors I have not taken into account, not least because this 40w laser wouldn't make much sense otherwise, but given the magnitude of the difference and a relatively small difference in claimed output power, it seems to me that the atezr v35 either cannot live up to the claimed specs, or has to outperform the xtool by no small amount.
Do you have any way of verifying or debunk this hypothesis? Perhaps you know someone with a atezr v35, or something or rather?
It is the one question I'd like answered more than anything, because I want a diode laser, as opposed to a CO2 laser, but I also want to be able to do certain things you ight not normally be able to, with a diode laser, and to increase my chances of actually succeeding, I need to figure out which is the better choice, as I can only afford to buy one.
Of course the general quality of the xtool seem superior, but this is of little interest to me.
Thanks and best regards.
Based on those stats I definitely see your conclusions and if their stats are legit it would make sense. But honestly I wouldn’t believe the stats until they are verified by a 3rd party user. Speaking of which I’ve been looking at getting a laser power meter if you see one that you think would give us good results let me know I am happy to make the investment.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Ya, the thing is that these stat are never really verified, partly because it is difficult to do, and partly because the vast majority of people buying such machines, don't really care. What matters are the results, which makes sense, of course.
I however, do care, and if I could afford to do so, I'd simply buy one of each, and test it for myself, naturally sharing the results, but I do not have that kind of money.
That being said, the stats have to be rather a lot off to alter the conclusions, so perhaps it is just a matter of taking that chance.
Another interesting point, perhaps explaining the better focus, is that the atezr v35, as I understand it, use 6 laser diodes, as opposed to xtools 8, and it does make some sense that this results in better focus.
On the other hand, this also means higher output per diode, and I don't really know if there are any downsides to this. Longevity could suffer, for one, but there may be other factors.
I don't really know anything about power meters, but if the output alone is all you care about, it should be reasonably simple to make your own.
Quote from the great interweb:
"a watt is . 24 calorie per second. It takes 1000 calories to raise 1 liter of water one degree C"
Just to mention one approach. Then all you really need is a reasonably accurate temperature sensor, a black body containing water, preferably well insulated, and time.
Even better, if you just need to make comparisons, and don't really care about the actual numbers, you can use any material that absorb the relevant wavelengths reasonably well, which for the visible spectrum is as black as possible, perhaps with a rough surface to minimize reflection, and again time, to find the peak heat capacity.
I should think that it is a reasonably easy project to take on, and it would make for a nice video too. ;)
Could the 50w cut stained glasses (1/8") ?
Interesting I might be able to pick some up at a local hobby store and try it out.
Would you choose this over a RMJ750?
For a beginner now I would suggest the Xtool S1 or D1 pro, for the more advanced user I would suggest Co2 lasers like any of the RM lasers or the Xtool P2
What metal can you cut with it
Steel as far as I have tested.
Can this laser engrave on polymer?
You know I am not sure are you talking like polymer clay?
This is so impressive is it possible to use this Laser on any other brand of Laser?
I think someone with knowledge of wiring and electronics it might be hackable.
Sad xtool can finish the 40w production but can't find replacement parts for ALLLLLL the previously sold 5,10 and 20's, not to mention the IR's and rotary accesory :(
I am amazed at how fast they are growing I know recently Covid hit China again recently and that probably gave them some set backs but I hope what you’re looking for comes back in stock soon. If not I’d like to know.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Yeah, covid or something; lol. Enjoy the free pew pew while it lasts, hope you never need replacement parts for it, cause, covid and stuff.
@@davidoberle137 😂
Thanks for a great review of the new 40W module! I've seen some of your earlier videos comparing a diode with a CO2 laser. Does this close the gap?
It definitely exceeds in terms of power I would say this 40w diode seems as powerful or more than my 90w co2 laser. There are still some positives to each and the other. Definitely need to do an updated video on Co2 vs diode.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Was just about to ask how this differs from your OMTech and if a person could only have one what would you recommend? More shed videos please.
@@edhiestand1197 wait for real are y’all enjoying the Shed Saga? I figured it was a bust 🤣
@@ChadsCustomCreations your test is super slow against even against a 60w co2 laser, I do'nt even knwo how you can compare 90w...ridiculus
Please show me a 60w or 90w co2 with with the same results. I have both a 60w and a 90w co2 laser and yes they are fast but they cannot cut like this.
So if I’m dropping in the neighbourhood of $2000 would you buy this or a co2 laser?
I’d say there are still some factors to consider. Diodes-less maintenance and hassle, no water cooling, no mirrors to align and keep clean. Diodes wavelength still doesn’t don’t do anything to clear acrylic or white but xtool does have a list of colors that do work on their website with the D1. I would say this 40w seems to have more cutting power than my 90w co2 laser.
Co2s still seem to have diodes beat in the movement speed game and the fact that they also are great at acrylics. The built in Ruida controllers are really nice also.
You scared my cats and me with your fire alarm! lol 🤣
Haha sorry about that 😹
I'm impressed that it cut through the thin steel seeing as blue lasers are abysmal for cutting metals.
Yeah I was astonished when I first saw it. Ever since the 20w diodes hit the market people’s minds about cutting steel with blue diodes have been changing.
@@ChadsCustomCreations I hope Xtool (or someone who makes compatible parts) will come out with an infrared 40w laser diode in the near future.
Plastic hoses may spontaneously catch fire when mixed with pure oxygen, make sure you get an oxygen rated hose. Best to supply oxygen through a stainless steel needle. Precision and high pressure is what you need not volume. I highly recommend getting a green oxygen welding hose.
Yes you are right and I am unaware of the internals of this module it most likely is all flammable hosing so I am definitely risking damaging my machine by introducing oxygen 🤔
Really want to talk to you to guide me on where to buy this machine and the other accessories I may need
Links to purchase are in the description, if you’re not in a country they ship to see if you can send an email to their customer support. I’ve seen where they will make exceptions.
Thanks so much for your reply. However, u are yet to address my concern of wanting to buy the machine and other accessories but, with a mentor that can take me through the positives and negatives of the machine so that I can make informed decision.
Of course, am outside the US
@@KehindeOjewumi I do regret to say that I cannot give out individual mentorship’s but I am happy to answer specific questions you might have. The laser community is huge rest a assured I am not the only one to learn from.
what about perspex ?
What is that and where do I get it?
Now i'll wait till there is information regarding the longevity of the module
Yes that is definitely a concern with any new technology like this. I know the other ones were rated at 10,000 hours, I imagine as long as the heat in maintained on the inside of the unit we should see a similar light span but who know this early on.
What prevents you from buying the 40W module and installing it on a regular D1? I have a D1 with the 5W module and the IR module, which comes with an upgraded power supply. On xtool's site it says that it is "only for d1 PRO" but that could just be to discourage users from buying the cheapest machine and making it run the highest spec module. Does anyone have any input? I want to try it but it's too much money to sink if it's actually just a brick with the D1.
The IR module works on your D1? Did it come with an adapter? I have a D1 also I may have to see if this can be done.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Yes, I ordered a base refurbished D1 10W, they sent me the 5W instead, and I ordered the IR module at the same time- The IR module is about as tall as the 40W, and comes with a 121.5W power brick - 13.5V at 9A. What is your power brick marked as with the 40W? I can use the IR module and the 5W module interchangeably without issue on the D1, the rail on the IR module is thinner and requires 3 more turns on the setscrew (it's spring loaded, pull on it and you can adjust the lever and nut independently) to contact in order to lock on the gantry also.
@@Zombiesrofl oh interesting I will definitely investigate this and let you know.
So. Did you live after adding oxygen? I'm so anxious to learn how this worked for ya.
Trying to be safe I have a flashback arrestor being delivered for the oxygen line, even though I’ve learned through the comments that I needed it, and also that I don’t need it need it. I am going to lean on the safer side. Though I also learned oxygen by itself oxygen is not combustible, which I didn’t know. It has to have a fuel like another gas or even the rubber tubing for the oxygen to go crazy.
@@ChadsCustomCreations that's super interesting! I'm excited to see your experiment succeed! Good luck! Don't die!
@@EngineHeadCW thank you for the well wishes 🥹
AIUI diode lasers don't last long. How long is the warranty on this, and does it cover performance?
I believe these are still rated at 10,000 hours that’s 416 days of continuous run time
@@ChadsCustomCreations Ok, thanks. So far all I found is a 15-30 day warranty, but I'll contact them to find out for sure.
Have you tried it with non-ferrous metals? (sterling, bronze, etc..?)
This one no, I did try the 20w I have a video of that with aluminum, and copper and had not much of an effect though they were probably too thick anyways.
I wonder about titanium. It doesn’t conduct well at all.
@@chrishanson8972 ohh then that makes it a great candidate I would think.
Will it cut rubber?
I believe so I have seen people making rubber stamps with these.
Way COOL!!! However, I can cut a 2x4 on my miter saw in about 2 seconds 🙂
Haha you’re right more of a proof of concept but what about cutting an intricate tenon or mortise?
Try cutting with argon instead of compressed air and see if it reduces charing
Very interesting idea I am genuinely curious how it would react to this.
That's really impressive. Higher wattage CO2 at 10600nm have a tougher time on such thick wood.
Yeah I was starting to see that with the 20w but now with this 40w it’s definitely evident that there are some big advantages here.
Having a laser of this power this exposed just gives me the willies. But that's a lot of power.
Yeah I think it is time I take the full enclosure out and set it up. This thing is lighting up the night sky I can only imagine what the neighbors think is going on over here.
I really want to buy a laser machine and I am really confused of which one to get whether the longer ray5 20w or xtool 40w...
please help me out guys :(
I WANT to buy it ASAP!!!
I haven’t personally used the longer Ray 5 but I can imagine xtool does cost more but for me they are leading the pack in quality and innovation.
@@ChadsCustomCreations do you have any social media accounts that we can chat with?
Like Snapchat maybe?
@@WORLDOFBLINGBLING you can find me on IG link is in the bottom of the video description
So you could speed it up and maybe slant it a little and do a bowl?
I don’t see why you couldn’t.