In the 1930's in the north of Scotland, where there was no mains high power electricity supply at the time, our family woollen textile mill was all run on line shafting, powered by an 80HP 68 Litre Shanks-Deutz single cylinder diesel. It had been knocking for a few days, while waiting for the Shanks engineer to come up from Glasgow. He re-poured the babbitt big end bearing but scraped it on the tight side. Apparently he said to my father: "It will run in just fine." The first test runs went OK but on the final test at full revs and full load, the whole thing seized solid in less than 1/4 of a revolution. The momentum of all the line shafting, attached machinery with large heavy revolving drums (carding condensers) and the 12 ton flywheel, bent the connecting rod like a banana and broke belts all the way across the whole factory. The whole works had an unexpected week's holiday courtesy of Shanks, who had to send a team up to make all the repairs. The moral is, give Babbitt bearings a bit more clearance than you might think.
Good to read about the older Deutz engines! I worked 8 years at Deutz in Atlanta, Ga looking at Diesels people had run out of oil! :( Wouldn't that be smaller than 68L? 6.8L still sounds big for 80 Ps. and .68 sounds small but converting back and forth all these years later isn't as easy as it once was! ;) BTW We still had parts for the early 1900s and older hand crank Deutz engines (and one in the shop we fired up now and then) ...
Somewhere I read a tale of the restoration of an old bandsaw, in which the author wrote that it should run so quietly that "the only sound was that of sawdust hitting the floor."
This bandsaw is probably only built good enough to last 835 years with a refresh every 80-90 years. Hopefully it should be ok after this overhaul. Awesome restoration project Keith!! Good work on the video editing too!
I did expect to see a little more on fitting the bearings, typically on the bottom bearing we would carve out a lead in pocket that would collect oil and introduce it to the centre of the horizontal joint, making sure there was good contact around the outside bearing surface. Blue the shaft and get a good idea of the contact. Use turbine or hydraulic oil , 32 46 68 or 100 cts. Those bearing should turn as smooth as silk , carry tons of load and last for 100 years.
With die grinders and files like that, I’m pleased you are not a dentist. Really enjoying learning about vintage techniques and machine inner workings. Thank you
Nice work sir as usual. Babbitt is one of those things that I just recently have seen done because of just a few channels that did it. I knew of it though. Near Sacramento California is an old railway that isn't operating anymore and there is lots of Babbitt slag on the tracks. The Lead or Tin would melt and drip out and fall onto the sand and make this tremendous Leaded Glass sort of substance. I kept a piece of it when i moved to Florida. It looks like melted glass but is heavy like lead. Dark in color not metallic looking and actually black. Sort of like a melted rock. Some old timer told me what it was at a bar when I pulled it out of my pocket. I still have that piece.
Getting tough to get up and down now isn't Keith.. that is the thing I hate the most out of being old.. the joints just don't want to do what they used to with out complaints.. But then in my case a lot of it is my fault.. at 70 I realized now that I should not have thrown my body around like I did when I was younger.. and when I hit 40 I should have stayed in shape.. But hind sight.. you know... Carry on great teaching.. I enjoy all the old machines.. Like some in my grandfathers shop..
I would be worried about this man's breathing ,which you can hear on his mic.He should test his blood pressure because of his weight.This could avoid heart problems /a stroke.
@@kenadams5504 Yes, I noticed also that he has a lot of water retention.. that is not good for fellas of our age.. But I am sure he has a doctor to watch over his medical conditions.. At least lets hope so.. I would hate to loose him..
Keith, I'm not so sure about the Babbitt is shrinking as it might actually be expanding as it cools and tightening against the shaft. Many Babbitt alloys contain antimony for a number of reasons and one thing that antimony does is expand upon cooling. It is often added to pewter alloys because upon cooling it's expansion forces it into the mold helping to pickup fine decorative details.
When metals go through a phase transformation in the solid state, there is a change in dimension corresponding to the density of the new crystal structure. Iron, for instance, shrinks on heating at about 1330 F when it transforms from ferrite ( Body centered cubic) to austenite (Face centered cubic). Steel will expand when quenched for hardening as the martensite forms. As for shafts being tight in newly poured bearing shells, some of that will come from the expansion of the shell from pre-heating, usually 500F, which shrinks upon cooling and compresses the babbitt. There is only about 5% antimony in most babbitt, but it may have some effect as well. 95% of the babbitt is composed of lead and tin and these do not expand on cooling.
I just pulled a rather simple and large wood lathe out of a 150 year old barn and discovered that there was what appeared to be lead wrapped around the shaft on the head end and what looked like copper plain bearings on the tail end. Never heard of a Babbitt bearing before. Until today.
I'm surprised you didn't blue the shaft to test the goodness of fit. I'd love to hear your opinion on this, but I guess you don't think it's necessary. Thanks for the video.
I have a friend that did a mild restoration of a wind mill. He used white PVC pipe to replace the wore out Babbitt. He greased it up and has worked for decades. He greases it yearly.
You were discussing the oil used here, and how it's not as critical as some other stuff, it reminds me of the oil discussions for various other machine tools. From what I gather a non-detergent is needed for things like lathe head stocks and carriages, I wonder if non-detergent and non-EP would be in order for these as well, given the small copper component to Babbitt. Very cool to see you make friction bearings from scratch, old school but looks good!
Showed my Dad this video (he used to work in the Midland Railway Workshops here in Western Australia) and he said "If I did work like that I wouldn't have just been fired, half the guys from the casting shop would have come down to the engine shop and kicked my arse on my way out the door too."
Keep a roll of kapton tape around, it is a fantastic dielectric and it takes high heat (400C or so). I use it in my tube amps all the time. I love kapton tape.
A 48 inch bandsaw rotating at only 100 rpm produces 1264 surface feet per minute (SFM). 1200 SFM is a good average speed for cutting hardwoods and plywood.
As a friend ,I'd like to say the sound of this Man's breathing is accentuated on video and from his weight and breathing I would suggest the importance of checking his blood pressure.Half of all adults have high blood pressure which can lead to serious health problems if left untreated.A simple daily medication can avoid these problems ,so pls big guy, check it out.
For most of the friction bearings I have I just used 30 weight nondetenent motor oil. An old woodworker had a 24 in bandsaw with babbitt bearings and that is allhe used
Keith, I've been really enjoying watching the videos. Not much else to do right now as I'm recovering from the ever-so-wonderful COVID virus. After going back to watch some of the older videos, I saw one where you received some viewer mail of welding (or brazing) rods for cast iron. You talked about trying them out, but I don't see any videos where that happened. Did you ever try them out, or is that still on your list of things to do?
17:40 Do You hear the noise Your oil can is making on the shaft? A plain bearing needs a twist-free ground shaft. Otherwise it conveys the oil out to one side like a screw conveyor.
I heard that and thought the same, all that work to fit new bearings and a rasp of a shaft will not help, but it could just be the new microphone exaggerating the sound.
Keith I wonder if the stiffness in the shaft will create a warping heat to the shaft if the machine is neglectfully left running. The respect you have for old American Iron has created museum pieces. Long time viewer here. Great work.
Great job on an initial fit. I know you said you have to tweak it a bit so I am sure it will run just fine. I noticed these machines use shims. I found em on my old planer and you had some heat. I guess the idea is to adjust the fit over time. That being the case, I don’t understand why you would need to to scrape it in like a way. After all, change one shim and you you loose all your fancy hyper precise scraping.
You scrape to create a zone to squeeze an oil film through, the shaft should be held on the film, if the scraped surface isn’t done correctly, you have to use thicker oil or much more of it. Less critical on lower rpm where you look at a greater contact zone with oil pockets similar to scraped bearing on a bed. While white metal bearings are simple in principle, there’s a lot going on to get a well fitted one. But this is a bandsaw not a high speed spindle off a grinder
Perfect project for trying TIMESAVER yellow lapping compound. You will get the necessary oil clearance AND contact that will make the shaft spin velvety smooth with little effort.
@@Henning_S. You are correct. When lapping, the abrasive will always embed in the softer material and abraide the harder. To lap the babbitt bearings you would have to make a shaft out of a material softer than babbitt. Babbitt is a pretty soft metal, so that would be a challenge. Maybe a hardwood shaft would work, but I doubt it.
@@Henning_S. My experience and the literature on the stuff EMPHASIZES that it quickly degrades and does not embed. You simply wash the degraded material away with solvent. Look it up.
@@noir-qv3oe I don't think folks understand that this is NOT valve grinding compound. I believe the stuff is feldspar (I could be wrong) and it loses its cutting ability very fast. I've used it on several antique engines and it works fantastic. It's been around since the 1920's and gets used on some massive babbitt bearings.
If you will dust the bearings with a light coat of cheap spray paint you can then reinstall the shaft, turn it several times then take apart…all the highs will not have paint…then you will know your contact points
@ 16:30 The original oils would have been whale oil. Until relatively recently the mechanisms of Tower Bridge in London were lubricated with whale oil.
Your jumping ahead.. be patient... Centrifugal force helps center it .at speed it centers itself. Then burns in . Blade guides help center it and will keep it from wandering off. Have faith grasshopiter . Drink till you see double and then close one eye. Then you'll see it. Geesh.... Cheers!
How much contact surface do you need to get for the bearing to work properly? Looks like you might lose the oil if the fit is not good enough and then get metal to metal contact?
When doing something like this, which is kind of a dying art, I wonder how many mistakes we make that an apprentice would be taught to avoid the first week. Teaching yourself an old skill from books or even watching an master do it is not the same as doing it day in and day out. Seems there is alway a "by the way do/don't do this" left unwritten. Part of my job is writing technical manuals and I alway have to back up and add a step that is just second nature to me. Watching you do this I THINK I could pour a really simple straight foward bearing on lets say the tenth try! Quick question, would this have been something any machinest would do or would it have been the "bearing guy" doing it. I know you in your work have to aquire skills from a bunch of different specialties. Thanks Keith!
Not sure how closed captioning is set, most of your productions are CC, this one is not. Due to environment, I usually watch with sound off and read the CC. I really enjoyed this series about babbitt pouring. My dad and I did my '31 Model A engine in 1963, including pouring, line boring and scraping. He'd been a Ford mechanic when they were new..
UA-cam takes some time to generate the subtitles, best to give a video a few hours after it's been uploaded if you want to watch with subs. They are there now
Sorry Keith, but you've done the scraping all wrong. I've scraped quite a few white metal bearings in my time. To get a good bearing surface, you need bluing paste.... Not the liquid blue for marking out but it's a thick paste and comes in a toothpaste size tube. You apply a very thin coating over the shaft then rotate the shaft in the bearings. The blue will transfer to the high points. This is where you scrape. Its rinse and repeat after that til you've got an even bluing all over the bearings.
You can scrape the contact area to minimise loss at the edges and minimise ingress of contamination. But essentially these are total loss bearings, what goes in eventually runs out
@@tomtke7351 Probably a spacer and the wheel for the saw blade on one side and a spacer and the flat belt pulley on the other side. The spacer/washer are only necessary to position the components correctly in the assembly. JIM
Very nice!! I feel an extra allure of excitement coming from ya here; what ya hidin eh? lol good stuff now yall back on up give this man the stage cause it be aight!! Thanks for the videos!!
@@silasmarner7586 you are right, I was being a tad cynical, I’ve struggled with a 70 year old milling machine, finding it easier to redesign the table x axis than replace long defunct bearings. Besides America might have gone metric by then?
For the speeds involved, I have found Babbitt and bronze bearings to run really smooth. I used to think these were obsolete but they work quite well. You do have to remember to oil them more often than ball bearings.
@@johnsherborne3245 Most bearings are metric already, I'm pretty sure. I'm in the process of restoring a 1937-39 USA-made Delta bandsaw that has its original bearings still, and they're metric.
Everything old is new again.....get you some plain (cheap) 30wt non detergent motor oil for this bearing. 10wt is good for rifles and sewing machines. 30wt is better for heavy load bearings.....and Browning 1919 machine guns (they run a little hot)
The wear should be minimal if fitted properly and oil film maintained. Otherwise, yes you get the pleasure of refitting frequently to maintain the alignment and efficiency
wow what was your total time for this babbitt replacement? Now you are stuck with the same liability the machine had when it was new. Not your best move
Too bad the wheel is so big that you'd have to jack the body up on two sawhorses in order to attach the wheel or I would have suggested that you attach the wheel and spin it until the bearing wore in, but in this case, it would be a bear to do so.
Not a precise job by any stretch. I had hoped you would at least show the contact zones and explain how with some careful scraping create oil retention and control the total loss . As said below, the job should be done with engineering blue.
@@markregler2164 take a look at the tool room lathe I did a couple years back. I know it’s horses for courses but I’m sure Mr Rucker could do a better job without too much effort
@@brianrvd Possibly but I didn't connect the low gain as a preparation for noisy work ahead. The same loss of gain I noticed in the previous video when Keith turned his head to the left and the mike sist a bit to the right.
Indention is the ACT of performing the indent, while indenTAtion is the presence of the previously indented item. Thus, the correct term in your sentence is indenTAtion. IndenTAtion. IndenTAtion. 15:47
In the 1930's in the north of Scotland, where there was no mains high power electricity supply at the time, our family woollen textile mill was all run on line shafting, powered by an 80HP 68 Litre Shanks-Deutz single cylinder diesel. It had been knocking for a few days, while waiting for the Shanks engineer to come up from Glasgow. He re-poured the babbitt big end bearing but scraped it on the tight side. Apparently he said to my father: "It will run in just fine." The first test runs went OK but on the final test at full revs and full load, the whole thing seized solid in less than 1/4 of a revolution. The momentum of all the line shafting, attached machinery with large heavy revolving drums (carding condensers) and the 12 ton flywheel, bent the connecting rod like a banana and broke belts all the way across the whole factory. The whole works had an unexpected week's holiday courtesy of Shanks, who had to send a team up to make all the repairs. The moral is, give Babbitt bearings a bit more clearance than you might think.
Good info sir!
Good to read about the older Deutz engines! I worked 8 years at Deutz in Atlanta, Ga looking at Diesels people had run out of oil! :( Wouldn't that be smaller than 68L? 6.8L still sounds big for 80 Ps. and .68 sounds small but converting back and forth all these years later isn't as easy as it once was! ;) BTW We still had parts for the early 1900s and older hand crank Deutz engines (and one in the shop we fired up now and then) ...
Yeah if something is heavy and the solid journals fail, ugly is the only word that applies.
Great story from yester year, thanks for sharing it with us.
In most cases clearance is your friend.
Somewhere I read a tale of the restoration of an old bandsaw, in which the author wrote that it should run so quietly that "the only sound was that of sawdust hitting the floor."
This bandsaw is probably only built good enough to last 835 years with a refresh every 80-90 years. Hopefully it should be ok after this overhaul. Awesome restoration project Keith!! Good work on the video editing too!
‘I don’t want to bore you with the filing, but here’s almost a minute of me using a shop vac’
Great video Keith, keep'um coming...
I did expect to see a little more on fitting the bearings, typically on the bottom bearing we would carve out a lead in pocket that would collect oil and introduce it to the centre of the horizontal joint, making sure there was good contact around the outside bearing surface. Blue the shaft and get a good idea of the contact. Use turbine or hydraulic oil , 32 46 68 or 100 cts. Those bearing should turn as smooth as silk , carry tons of load and last for 100 years.
this thing is going to be used 3 times in 10 years i think
@@summerforever6736 You must not know Jimmy that man lives with a bandsaw running. He trims his fingernails on a bandsaw. LOL
With die grinders and files like that, I’m pleased you are not a dentist. Really enjoying learning about vintage techniques and machine inner workings. Thank you
Nice work sir as usual. Babbitt is one of those things that I just recently have seen done because of just a few channels that did it. I knew of it though. Near Sacramento California is an old railway that isn't operating anymore and there is lots of Babbitt slag on the tracks. The Lead or Tin would melt and drip out and fall onto the sand and make this tremendous Leaded Glass sort of substance. I kept a piece of it when i moved to Florida. It looks like melted glass but is heavy like lead. Dark in color not metallic looking and actually black. Sort of like a melted rock. Some old timer told me what it was at a bar when I pulled it out of my pocket. I still have that piece.
Getting tough to get up and down now isn't Keith.. that is the thing I hate the most out of being old.. the joints just don't want to do what they used to with out complaints.. But then in my case a lot of it is my fault.. at 70 I realized now that I should not have thrown my body around like I did when I was younger.. and when I hit 40 I should have stayed in shape.. But hind sight.. you know... Carry on great teaching.. I enjoy all the old machines.. Like some in my grandfathers shop..
I would be worried about this man's breathing ,which you can hear on his mic.He should test his blood pressure because of his weight.This could avoid heart problems /a stroke.
@@kenadams5504 Yes, I noticed also that he has a lot of water retention.. that is not good for fellas of our age.. But I am sure he has a doctor to watch over his medical conditions.. At least lets hope so.. I would hate to loose him..
@@tinkmarshino I'm sure his Doc is looking after him.
@@kenadams5504 I sure hope your right.. Have a great weekend Ken!
THanks Keith,I really appreciate watching your videos,you are truly an artisan.
Keith, I'm not so sure about the Babbitt is shrinking as it might actually be expanding as it cools and tightening against the shaft. Many Babbitt alloys contain antimony for a number of reasons and one thing that antimony does is expand upon cooling. It is often added to pewter alloys because upon cooling it's expansion forces it into the mold helping to pickup fine decorative details.
Thanks for the info. I was just wondering about antimony's role in babbitt
When metals go through a phase transformation in the solid state, there is a change in dimension corresponding to the density of the new crystal structure. Iron, for instance, shrinks on heating at about 1330 F when it transforms from ferrite ( Body centered cubic) to austenite (Face centered cubic). Steel will expand when quenched for hardening as the martensite forms.
As for shafts being tight in newly poured bearing shells, some of that will come from the expansion of the shell from pre-heating, usually 500F, which shrinks upon cooling and compresses the babbitt. There is only about 5% antimony in most babbitt, but it may have some effect as well. 95% of the babbitt is composed of lead and tin and these do not expand on cooling.
I just pulled a rather simple and large wood lathe out of a 150 year old barn and discovered that there was what appeared to be lead wrapped around the shaft on the head end and what looked like copper plain bearings on the tail end. Never heard of a Babbitt bearing before. Until today.
You have them in your car.
Hey thanks for making this vid. I have some bearings to pour on a ba d saw. Sawzall might work on trimming babbit.
Really enjoyed watching that process.
Enjoy watching a master craftsman work.
I'm surprised you didn't blue the shaft to test the goodness of fit. I'd love to hear your opinion on this, but I guess you don't think it's necessary. Thanks for the video.
I have a friend that did a mild restoration of a wind mill. He used white PVC pipe to replace the wore out Babbitt. He greased it up and has worked for decades. He greases it yearly.
Nice, I just binge watched most of this series the other day
My vote doesn't matter, but I'd vote to start over and try again on a second pour.
Essa serra é gigante, parabéns pelo trabalho, estamos acompanhando. Grande abraço
You were discussing the oil used here, and how it's not as critical as some other stuff, it reminds me of the oil discussions for various other machine tools. From what I gather a non-detergent is needed for things like lathe head stocks and carriages, I wonder if non-detergent and non-EP would be in order for these as well, given the small copper component to Babbitt. Very cool to see you make friction bearings from scratch, old school but looks good!
No, No, stop, wait, just pull the shaft out the end! 🤣😂
Like the video Thanks for sharing
Showed my Dad this video (he used to work in the Midland Railway Workshops here in Western Australia) and he said "If I did work like that I wouldn't have just been fired, half the guys from the casting shop would have come down to the engine shop and kicked my arse on my way out the door too."
Thank you Keith.
Could you stuff some cotton batting for an oil wick? The center would be a nice reservoir.
Keep a roll of kapton tape around, it is a fantastic dielectric and it takes high heat (400C or so). I use it in my tube amps all the time. I love kapton tape.
It is an essential part of any serious kit.
Teflon pipe tape would work as well.
....well, if ya LOVE it so MUCH- then why don't ya MARRY IT?!
A 48 inch bandsaw rotating at only 100 rpm produces 1264 surface feet per minute (SFM). 1200 SFM is a good average speed for cutting hardwoods and plywood.
Impressive as always. 20 minutes zips by. Thanks for the video.
Another great video!
I enjoy your restorations good job
New to babbit, thank you.
As a friend ,I'd like to say the sound of this Man's breathing is accentuated on video and from his weight and breathing I would suggest the importance of checking his blood pressure.Half of all adults have high blood pressure which can lead to serious health problems if left untreated.A simple daily medication can avoid these problems ,so pls big guy, check it out.
Enjoyed watching the video 👍 Top job. Regards from Down Under.
For most of the friction bearings I have I just used 30 weight nondetenent motor oil. An old woodworker had a 24 in bandsaw with babbitt bearings and that is allhe used
Agreed.
I hope Jimmy D appreciates all the work in just the bearings
Keith, I've been really enjoying watching the videos. Not much else to do right now as I'm recovering from the ever-so-wonderful COVID virus. After going back to watch some of the older videos, I saw one where you received some viewer mail of welding (or brazing) rods for cast iron. You talked about trying them out, but I don't see any videos where that happened. Did you ever try them out, or is that still on your list of things to do?
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.👍👀
17:40 Do You hear the noise Your oil can is making on the shaft? A plain bearing needs a twist-free ground shaft. Otherwise it conveys the oil out to one side like a screw conveyor.
I heard that and thought the same, all that work to fit new bearings and a rasp of a shaft will not help, but it could just be the new microphone exaggerating the sound.
Thank You !
Glad to see you have long pants Keith
Keith I wonder if the stiffness in the shaft will create a warping heat to the shaft if the machine is neglectfully left running. The respect you have for old American Iron has created museum pieces. Long time viewer here. Great work.
There should be no stiffness. Without clearance between the shaft and babbitt it will heat up and seize .
GREAT JOB
Great job on an initial fit. I know you said you have to tweak it a bit so I am sure it will run just fine. I noticed these machines use shims. I found em on my old planer and you had some heat. I guess the idea is to adjust the fit over time. That being the case, I don’t understand why you would need to to scrape it in like a way. After all, change one shim and you you loose all your fancy hyper precise scraping.
You scrape to create a zone to squeeze an oil film through, the shaft should be held on the film, if the scraped surface isn’t done correctly, you have to use thicker oil or much more of it. Less critical on lower rpm where you look at a greater contact zone with oil pockets similar to scraped bearing on a bed. While white metal bearings are simple in principle, there’s a lot going on to get a well fitted one. But this is a bandsaw not a high speed spindle off a grinder
@@lookcreations my poor attempt at being P.C.
@@devemch7851 Shims are a way to get a lot longer time between having to repour the bearings.
Keep up the work
nice
nice work
Mr Rucker, would you also add some close up clips, of the area being worked on.
Your sound problem that you discussed earlier sounds like woodpecker calls.
Perfect project for trying TIMESAVER yellow lapping compound. You will get the necessary oil clearance AND contact that will make the shaft spin velvety smooth with little effort.
I think the lapping compound will embed in the soft babbitt and increase wear on the shaft...
@@Henning_S. You are correct. When lapping, the abrasive will always embed in the softer material and abraide the harder. To lap the babbitt bearings you would have to make a shaft out of a material softer than babbitt. Babbitt is a pretty soft metal, so that would be a challenge. Maybe a hardwood shaft would work, but I doubt it.
@@Henning_S. My experience and the literature on the stuff EMPHASIZES that it quickly degrades and does not embed. You simply wash the degraded material away with solvent. Look it up.
I was thinking the same thing Craig. Wouldve been perfect for timesaver.
@@noir-qv3oe I don't think folks understand that this is NOT valve grinding compound. I believe the stuff is feldspar (I could be wrong) and it loses its cutting ability very fast. I've used it on several antique engines and it works fantastic. It's been around since the 1920's and gets used on some massive babbitt bearings.
You can use a soldering gun to add material back in to do spot repairs.
Keith, is it ok to machine off in the mill versus filing the excess babbit off?
Great vid please keep them coming.
Eric
too much time to set up the project in the mill vs just filing it down.
With the gap in the middle of the bottom bearing, will you need to fill that with oil (won't the oil just leak into there until it fills up) ?
you saw this as well. some packing seal material should keep the oil from running out the bearing ends.
If you will dust the bearings with a light coat of cheap spray paint you can then reinstall the shaft, turn it several times then take apart…all the highs will not have paint…then you will know your contact points
That is what blueing does.
Hiya Keith
GREAT JOB, GREAT VIDEO, DON'T FORGET THE CATS AND DOGS, SEE YOU ALL NEXT TIME...
If you wanted to get plastered, try a drinking game where you take a swig every time Keith says "Go ahead"!
Looking good. Were you using a dreadnaught file on the excess barbet? You called your brass file.
Great job Keith 👍
Could you please cover some time how you sharpen your scrapers.
are you going to put prussian blue on to see what the contact patch looks like?
@ 16:30 The original oils would have been whale oil. Until relatively recently the mechanisms of Tower Bridge in London were lubricated with whale oil.
What’s going to stop the shaft from walking back and forth other than the pulleys ?
I think there's a collar on each side and held with set screws. Probably some sort of thrust bearings also.
At about 14:00 I think you might have bumped the mike and now it is muted a bit. We can hear and turn up the volume.
Don't forget to degrease again before applying the paint, otherwise it won't last.
In an operating environment both bearings would probably have been replaced over a weekend.
are going to cut a hole in the floor for the wheel or are you going lift it by 2ft and build a platform around it ??
Hi Keith if you had a choice of Babbitt or bronze bearings witch would you choose and witch is best for this application .Thanks JM
Sounds like your breathing is still not normal ! Hope you are OK?
Its time to lose a significant amount of weight Kieth
What will keep the shaft from moving let to right ? Or will there be stop collars on either end of shaft?
Your jumping ahead.. be patient...
Centrifugal force helps center it .at speed it centers itself. Then burns in . Blade guides help center it and will keep it from wandering off. Have faith grasshopiter . Drink till you see double and then close one eye. Then you'll see it. Geesh....
Cheers!
Oof, die grinder without eye protection! Naughty naughty Keith! Great video though as always!!
He is wearing glasses, so I don't see there's problem.
How much contact surface do you need to get for the bearing to work properly? Looks like you might lose the oil if the fit is not good enough and then get metal to metal contact?
When doing something like this, which is kind of a dying art, I wonder how many mistakes we make that an apprentice would be taught to avoid the first week. Teaching yourself an old skill from books or even watching an master do it is not the same as doing it day in and day out. Seems there is alway a "by the way do/don't do this" left unwritten. Part of my job is writing technical manuals and I alway have to back up and add a step that is just second nature to me. Watching you do this I THINK I could pour a really simple straight foward bearing on lets say the tenth try! Quick question, would this have been something any machinest would do or would it have been the "bearing guy" doing it. I know you in your work have to aquire skills from a bunch of different specialties. Thanks Keith!
Bearing guy. Most machinist, no matter how experienced, would not have the skill to properly pour and scrape a Babbitt bearing.
Not sure how closed captioning is set, most of your productions are CC, this one is not. Due to environment, I usually watch with sound off and read the CC.
I really enjoyed this series about babbitt pouring. My dad and I did my '31 Model A engine in 1963, including pouring, line boring and scraping. He'd been a Ford mechanic when they were new..
UA-cam takes some time to generate the subtitles, best to give a video a few hours after it's been uploaded if you want to watch with subs. They are there now
The CC works when I play this video. Time of play was 2/10 at 1600 EST (just in case Keith added CC after you watched it.)
Sorry Keith, but you've done the scraping all wrong.
I've scraped quite a few white metal bearings in my time.
To get a good bearing surface, you need bluing paste.... Not the liquid blue for marking out but it's a thick paste and comes in a toothpaste size tube.
You apply a very thin coating over the shaft then rotate the shaft in the bearings. The blue will transfer to the high points. This is where you scrape. Its rinse and repeat after that til you've got an even bluing all over the bearings.
Prussian Blue
I can hear Mr Pete saying, “hammer and chisel mechanic”
Lol
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Is the microphone in your airway?
Where did you get scrappers?
Great video. What, if anything, keeps oil from coming out from around the shaft at outside ends of the casting?.
and/or.... what keeps the shaft from going in/out?
You can scrape the contact area to minimise loss at the edges and minimise ingress of contamination. But essentially these are total loss bearings, what goes in eventually runs out
@@tomtke7351 probably a set of stop collars.
@@tomtke7351 Probably a spacer and the wheel for the saw blade on one side and a spacer and the flat belt pulley on the other side. The spacer/washer are only necessary to position the components correctly in the assembly.
JIM
Very nice!! I feel an extra allure of excitement coming from ya here; what ya hidin eh? lol good stuff now yall back on up give this man the stage cause it be aight!! Thanks for the videos!!
Are you going to hold a babbett bearing workshop?
I thought the lower half of the bearing surface needed oil channels also
I wonder how difficult it would have been to convert those bearings to ball bearings
What chance any size of ball bearing will still be available in a hundred years time?
@@johnsherborne3245 Standard sizes? Pretty darned good. There are standard sizes that have been in existence for well over a hunnert years already.
@@silasmarner7586 you are right, I was being a tad cynical, I’ve struggled with a 70 year old milling machine, finding it easier to redesign the table x axis than replace long defunct bearings. Besides America might have gone metric by then?
For the speeds involved, I have found Babbitt and bronze bearings to run really smooth. I used to think these were obsolete but they work quite well. You do have to remember to oil them more often than ball bearings.
@@johnsherborne3245 Most bearings are metric already, I'm pretty sure. I'm in the process of restoring a 1937-39 USA-made Delta bandsaw that has its original bearings still, and they're metric.
Everything old is new again.....get you some plain (cheap) 30wt non detergent motor oil for this bearing. 10wt is good for rifles and sewing machines. 30wt is better for heavy load bearings.....and Browning 1919 machine guns (they run a little hot)
10:30 Why couldn't you wrap some 600 grit sandpaper around the shaft and spin it for a bit to help acclimate the shaft to the new Babbitt?
Just the paper would be way too much clearance
Are the babbitt filings worth recovering, melting, and reusing?
Yes, in the quantity Keith is generating.
Top bearings look OK for an amateur.
However, bottom bearings are just a fail.
Would it have been very difficult to of modernize that and used roller bearings or bearings. Or bushings
It is a restoration! However you may be right. This saw has only been running on babbitt for the last 120 years. I wouldn't trust it.
15:20 Do You see how much the alignment went wrong?
Babbit is 3/16"thick on left side of casting and 1/4"+ on ride side of casting. Hope that doesn't creat issues
As babbitt bearings wear, is it good practice to remove the shaft and re-groove it for oil?
The wear should be minimal if fitted properly and oil film maintained. Otherwise, yes you get the pleasure of refitting frequently to maintain the alignment and efficiency
Are you going to scrape the shaft just like you would the ways of a lathe?
Non pressure lubricated Babbitt or bronze should be scraped
wow what was your total time for this babbitt replacement? Now you are stuck with the same liability the machine had when it was new. Not your best move
Too bad the wheel is so big that you'd have to jack the body up on two sawhorses in order to attach the wheel or I would have suggested that you attach the wheel and spin it until the bearing wore in, but in this case, it would be a bear to do so.
Not a precise job by any stretch. I had hoped you would at least show the contact zones and explain how with some careful scraping create oil retention and control the total loss . As said below, the job should be done with engineering blue.
Not precise is an understatement. When I compare this to keith fenners version it's like night and day with regards to fit and finish.
@@markregler2164 take a look at the tool room lathe I did a couple years back. I know it’s horses for courses but I’m sure Mr Rucker could do a better job without too much effort
Embarrassing I’d say
22:00 Your clock's slow. It say 10 past 4, mine says 25 past 4 !
Well done. Big works by big boy.
During parts of the video the audio gain got a bit too low. Even using ear plugs Your voice was hard to hear.
I think he turned it down on the segments with the die grinder.
@@brianrvd Possibly but I didn't connect the low gain as a preparation for noisy work ahead. The same loss of gain I noticed in the previous video when Keith turned his head to the left and the mike sist a bit to the right.
Correction: turned his head to the right and the mike to the left...
Indention is the ACT of performing the indent, while indenTAtion is the presence of the previously indented item. Thus, the correct term in your sentence is indenTAtion. IndenTAtion. IndenTAtion. 15:47
Not your best work Keith. For what its worth, Jimmy won't be using it heavily like a production shop, probably more of a decoration.
gotta love when autofocus thinks the wall is more important than your face.