Top tip - When changing brake pads bleed off a little brake fluid at the caliper and test it for moisture content with a brake fluid moisture pen (eBay or Amazon) if less than 3% moisture top off the reservoir to the full mark and this gives you an indicator as the pads wear the fluid level drops. If 3% moisture or greater it's replace the brake (& clutch) fluid time.
The biggest culprit for crap brakes is the slider pins seizing up. A light smear of silicone grease on the pins and seals helps then clean all friction surfaces with brake cleaner to remove any super slippery stuff. Copper grease, burn the witch. If fluid wasn't meant to go back through the system the brakes would be permanently on.
What could also be a reason for noticing the brakes not performing as they should is if they're not sliding. If the caliper is not free to slide to push up against the pad not being acted on by the pistons then you just don't have full braking force. Never never never put copper 'grease' on the caliper mounting bolts, thread locker if advised too yes. That rear disc looks fairly worn out, I've just had to change mine for that very reason. Pushing fluid up through the system does no harm whatsoever, what do you think happens when you release the lever/pedal. You can even vacuum the system to draw fluid in from the bottom when new.
I can’t remember when I last saw the sun. Good video.
It was only last week!
Retracting the pistons is easier if you use one of the old pads with the g-cramp to push all three in togather
To be honest they moved well enough with just my fingers.
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Useful ta, Andy
Happy to help.
Top tip - When changing brake pads bleed off a little brake fluid at the caliper and test it for moisture content with a brake fluid moisture pen (eBay or Amazon) if less than 3% moisture top off the reservoir to the full mark and this gives you an indicator as the pads wear the fluid level drops. If 3% moisture or greater it's replace the brake (& clutch) fluid time.
Thanks John.
The biggest culprit for crap brakes is the slider pins seizing up. A light smear of silicone grease on the pins and seals helps then clean all friction surfaces with brake cleaner to remove any super slippery stuff.
Copper grease, burn the witch.
If fluid wasn't meant to go back through the system the brakes would be permanently on.
Good point!
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What could also be a reason for noticing the brakes not performing as they should is if they're not sliding. If the caliper is not free to slide to push up against the pad not being acted on by the pistons then you just don't have full braking force. Never never never put copper 'grease' on the caliper mounting bolts, thread locker if advised too yes. That rear disc looks fairly worn out, I've just had to change mine for that very reason. Pushing fluid up through the system does no harm whatsoever, what do you think happens when you release the lever/pedal. You can even vacuum the system to draw fluid in from the bottom when new.
Thanks mate.
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didn't know Yamaha made a CBF1000
Lol. Yamaha in the brain! I will change it!
SECOND
Slow!
Hey
Hello mate.
@NatsNackersYard how's u and family hope your all OK