Get Surfshark VPN at surfshark.deals/FARMCRAFT - enter promo code FARMCRAFT for 83% off and 3 extra months for free! Really glad to have my excavator back in action, and it will hopefully be a good reliable machine for a long time from here on out. Have an awesome weekend everybody, and thanks for your support!
I have surfshark. it sucks beyond the definition of sucks more than a black hole. I have to turn it off to do my banking and shopping and the ad blocker does nothing.
Was it doing the crab walk before you did the rotator manifold? I hope it was honestly (well I hope it just fixes itself and you don’t have to do anything lol) Cause it’s way easier to rebuild a drive motor then it is to pull that dam rotator manifold back out.
For putting the tracks on, especially with no help, I am pretty sure I have seen people using ratchet straps and come-alongs to finagle them into place.
I wish the VPN trick would actually work. I've tried a few of the top VPNs and success is limited. Seems that at least for me in my area, Netflix and Prime able to determine I'm still in Canada. Oh well, means watching more of your content!
Normally the backup ring goes on the outside, opposite of the pressure. The purpose is to cushion things and keep the o-ring from squeezing out the tiny gap between the gland and piston.
@Watch Wes Work - Thanks. Makes sense now that it’s explained. I’m pretty sure I put them back the way they I found them, but that’s wrong apparently. 🤦♂️
@@MRrwmac maybe mecanical link "rod" that open and closes main oil distribution valves not adjusted correct or maybe a kink in oil hose that feeds the final drive on that side maybe?
John, as a cocky myself here in Australia I really appreciate your “never say die” attitude and your approach to having a crack at everything. I also like the self examination process you go through for self improvement, really impressive mate. Most of all I really liked you service technique towards dishwashers, absolute bull terror, well done cobber.
Rapidly becoming one of my favourite channels - your talents in fixing things is really impressive - but most of all, your presentation, honesty on successes and failure is great.
@@lavasiouxwindwater9789 I don’t believe I’ve ever heard of anyone describing a comfortable scene including a glass of water unless they were in a life raft or a desert.
A little bit of advice coming from a heavy equipment mechanic of 10 years, you don't ever grease mating the surface between the wiper seal and the in bore of the barrel. The point of it being dry is to have a proper press fit so the wiper seal has the least possibility of being pushed back out. Furthermore, if there are dings and scratches in what's supposed to be a seal surface, that is always bad. Even if the edges of the dings and scratches aren't raised. It gives oil/fluid/grease a path to work past your sealing parts. And tracks from aftermarket companies are not as bad as you think. OEM is never your only option. And prices for OEM are always more expensive. I cannot count how many sets of tracks if priced and replaced over the years.
Before rebuilding the drive motor,check its flow rate and pressure,input/output to confirm its weakness and the linkages between the distributor and the lever. You may be able to rent the flow meter and the pressure gauge.
Support rings are usually added to keep the o-ring from extruding into the gap between rib and piston in high pressure applications. Should be on the other side of the o-ring in your case since the pressure is from the inside. Probably not an issue for your application. Might be for installation purposes to avoid squeezing the o-ring when installing the piston.
Those are probably the original factory seals in the adjusters, and you'd expect them to be put in correctly. I imagine the parts or service manual also indicated which way they should be installed.
I think its more for keeping it in place when releasing the track, to keep it from sliding backwards with the piston. The force it took to put in the scraper, I will garantere will prevent the O-ring from moving outwards
what you call a swivel joint, the technical term is a rotary manifold but I'd much rather call it a swivel joint, which just makes more sense nd is straight forward. I'm a heavy equipment mechanic, I really enjoy watching your channel and the type of person you are.
Love your videos, John. The dishwasher repair was great! It's hard to tell on the video, and I'm sure you looked them over, but... The coil springs on your idler shafts both looked very compressed to me. Is there any "spring" left in them? They should allow some travel. Might explain why you can't adjust your track up tighter. I know you said the tracks plenty tight for your taste, which they may be, but I'd be willing to bet the pistons are nearly all the way out now, even on your new tracks.
Seeing you limp your excavator along brought back memories... I worked on a farm from the age of ~10 years old until 25 (40+ years ago) and we had an old excavator with a broken track. We rarely needed to use it (we also had a backhoe, a couple of skid steers and another tractor with a loader), but when we did use it, your method of moving it with the broken track was our "normal" way of moving it around. After years of practice you can actually get pretty quick at driving around using one track and the excavator... Our track problem was a combination of a stripped planetary gear set, worn drive cogs and a broken tensioner. The previous owner had made the one side work by combining everything that worked on one side; so we were actually the second owners that moved it around using the one track and the bucket. Typical farmer mentality... If it works, no matter how badly, don't mess with it...
Travel speed / travel speed / Travel speed In my own experience with travel speed difference. The problem 90 procent is adjusting the return valve for the slowest travel motor, and then after ( if speed is stil to different) adjust the other side to lower speed 😊 Hope to se you do the job. Btw the return filter is also a SUPER important issue, easily overlooked😊 Mattsson
hi farmers son here .... sit each track on 2 or three wheel dolly's...makes moving them about so much easier .....loved the dishwasher fix ...made spit my cuppa out laughing...fantastic
An idea on how to get to the 1/2 inch when tensioning the track. Before pumping grease all the way to the desired goal, lower the track all they way down onto a flat surface. I think the weight of the lower portion of the track works against you. But if that lower portion is flat, the weight of the upper portion of the track will help reduce the resistance to the grease gun. Great videos, you do an awesome job filming, explaining, and fixing stuff! I don't have any of the heavy equipment you do, but I enjoy watching your videos a lot.
Seems your'e looking at a maintenance procedure for track adjustment. Track is stiffest when new so will not yet conform at the ends. Give it some time to break-in. Also, recall that the idler is spring loaded so some grease should go to preload them a bit. You don't want the idler assembly just rattling around loose. After break-in, the spring load will be included in that 1/2 gap. For the hydraulics you might use mechanics ears or point-and-shoot thermometer to compare the two drive valves and rule out one bypassing fluid before tackling the drive motor since it's a cheap fix. You have a great channel that I look forward to each week.
WOW! My lucky day! Rainy nasty weather outside so I have a nice fire in the fireplace and I just finished watching another favorite channel and this pops up. So I watched it and now it's time for my afternoon nap. Perfect!!!
I found it very interesting to see the whole system torn down regardless of your final realisation. I never knew how the track adjuster worked so am happy to now know. Your videos are great, thanks
One trick I've found that works well to install slightly oversized press fit seals, is to use a large socket (like you did) but ALSO add a long extension. The advantage of using the long extension is you can use a large sledge hammer and be confident the force is spread out well and also well centered. It is almost impossible for the seal to go in cock-eyed using this technique.
I reckon you have half an inch in wear at the idler pulley guide hole. So the idler is drooping lower and preventing you achieving half inch clearance. Great fixes John.
the whole not being able to adjust to within 1/2" thing just means the tensioner springs are "well-seasoned". there's nothing wrong with it. the grease pistons just take up the extra slack (hence what they're called). it's the tension springs that are giving your tracks the final tension without damaging them. they just aren't spring chickens anymore. someone may have over greased them once upon a time and over-compressed them. no big deal, the tension you have is fine. all you're trying to do is keep it from throwing a track when you do a turn or skip a tooth on the drive sprocket! nice job. i love the resourcefulness and all the right ways you know how to save an extra buck vs when to bite the bullet and pony up the cash.
Before you go and start rebuilding the travel motor check to see if you can make any adjustment at the bottom of travel motor levers around where they join onto the valve
Outstanding finish - enough repairs, time to rip out some trees! I have a couple of acres of that exact kind of thing to do. That's why I'm tolling auction sites looking for my excavator. Good job. Please don't forget to include us in on burn day! I love the smell of smoke in the morning, it smells like victory! lol
That new o-ring and old o-ring idea really will work for very long. That grease is applying hydraulic pressure. The backup ring is designed to take up space so the o-ring can fit through any gaps and blow out, as those springs are pretty heavy-duty looking. Just sure you put on the right side of the o-ring it does make a difference of leaking or not leaking. We had a 150 punch press with a hydraulic overload cylinder that used that same principal..
Hi John. Discovered your channel about a month ago and have gone back and watched almost every video you put out. Appreciate what you do. It's channels like yours is why I don't have or need cable!
You pulled the cylinder, at that point you might as well replace the o-rings. I probably wouldn’t have done the wipers just to save time and money but that’s me. The back up teflon ring should just keep the o-ring in place I wouldn’t sweat it. I like watching you figure stuff out and I really appreciate how brave you are just tearing into stuff I think you really give some confidence to guys that might be a little more hesitant working on their own stuff.
Love your mini videos since I have identical machine. I just took all the rollers out to replace and found the rollers were wearing into their holding plates, almost 1/2 way through. I welded up the grooves to add more metal so they would not wear through and cause extensive damage later. Also, I use come alongs hooked to my front bucket area (the side swing helps for each track, as it still holds the machine up. I am too old to use crow bars and hurt my back. Getting over the upper carrier wheel I use a board to the inside slope and on the outside of the track use a scissor jack on a 6x6 to raise it to clean the lip. Also the front idler wheel you can no longer get rebuild kits, you have to buy the entire assembly, here in Ontario Canada, a single idler wheel assembly from Yanmar is $2,200. I order mine direct from China, in advance. Not the same quality but at $170 each, for the amount of personal use the machine gets, I can buy several and keep a set on hand for back ups
When i was in the military we just set the track on the drive wheel and let the machine pull it on, because it will do that. Saves a ton of work and trouble, those tracks were hefty things, if i remember correctly 2-2.5 metric tons each. There wasnt a candle in a hurricanes chance we could ever do it manually.
Re: tracking straight, one new track and one very worn track will make a difference in the way the machine moves 😊great dishwasher repair! Very Camarata like 😂
Hi John, thank you for all the informative, entertaining and encouraging videos. I like that you are honest. People need to understand that we learn from mistakes and we’re not perfect at all. Also I think you answered your own question about getting the tracks tensioned to within a half an inch.
My dishwasher stopped pumping once. Turns out when pistachio shells get hot and wet, easy there, they curl up enough to get past the screen and lodge them selves into the pump impeller. Funny, I don’t even eat pistachios nor do I put the shells in coffee cups, of course it’s my fault for not seeing it before I loaded the dishwasher. Nice work with the track adjusters, Sir.
In my humble opinion, you don't need the critique. You knew there was a problem. You didn't put it off due to fear of the unknown or because you thought it'd be too tough to figure out. You did what you had to do while showing/teaching us too. And you made us all laugh in the process. I knew you were a good guy. I could tell from the very first video. You may have a hard time with stuff like that. But it needs to be said... again! ☺️ P.S. Can you come over and "fix" my dishwasher!?!
Absolutely love your videos John. So easy to learn from your content whether I will ever use the knowledge or not. There just fun to watch. The next time I need to fix the door seal on dishwasher I will know exactly what to do.😁 By the way, that dishwasher looked like it was made out of “Chineseium” metal and plastic when you got done not having a problem with the door seal. Have a great weekend.
Yay!!! You've got Top-Soil Generator 2: The Ditch.... Every end of fall, clean out your ditch with your excavator, get it into your dump-truck and put it to the pile of your main top-soil generator. Due to the fact that you want your ditch to be open and clean (to get your snow in, or get your water out), only helps if you keep it clean, to the sub-soil level. Just sayin' 🙂
Great video! I`m actually gonna check out a loose track on my Yanmat Vio75. Thanks to you I now know how to adress the problem, and I thank you allot for it👌. Love your videos. Especially the excavator ones.
Hop in the cab and spin the tracks a few times as you tighten while the machine is off the ground. I’ve noticed after the first couple revolutions the track actually tightens a little instead of loosening. 1/2” is normal slack. Trust me you don’t want a track popping off in the mud at the worst time possible. An inch is roughly what the steel tracks require. At least on the bobcats anyway. Just my two cents working on an e55
I can't believe how simple that track adjustment is. Really apprieciate the video. I liked how you fixed the dishwasher. The tracking problem has more to do with the linkage or cables in the levers than in the tracks.
Nice job , this video helped me a lot . I’m about to get one similar to yours and this has made me a little more confident in doing my own repairs. Thanks again.
My KX-121 Excavator also tracked slow. When I went to change the gear oil in them the slow side final drive was like draining a septic tank. It was ate up bad. Rebuilding the final drive is simple though, just remove the track, pull the lines, and remove the sprocket. Then carefully drop it in a junk pile and install a rebuilt one. BTW, never had a dishwasher need repaired, but did have an undercounter ice maker need some work done to it. Nothing fixes an icemaker like 4 lbs of Tannerite. It definitely doesn't make all that racket anymore.
You can make your own seal puller easily. By bending a square rod and grinding down the end into a hook and then bending the other end tpo allow you to hit with hammer and add a handle to hold the tool while hammering.
There are linkages directly below the drive sticks. They are accessible from the front of the cab below the floor. These are notorious for sticking, we spray with penetrating oil a few times a year. Helps some with the tracks running different speeds.
I think we think of them as light because we're used to car tires being quite big yet weighing not much because of air, but these tracks are solid rubber with steel inside :)
I've had to work on both Rubber and steel tracks and in the end, rubber tracks are light compared to full steel tracks lol. You wrestle those buggers around with chains and come-alongs.
@@itsnetts ya, at least 40 lbs each for smaller tracks. D8 tracks weigh a lot more. Even the tracks on the excavator probably weighs 60 is 70 lb / link. They sure feel pretty close to an 80lb bag of concrete anyways haha
Love this content! Great channel John, your a very smart man, it always amazes me how you just get in and do stuff I love the on the job training approach. Thanks for another great video.👍
"Buy once, cry once"... the bigger the toys the bigger the cost... Rubber tracks are a dream...I remember my Army days working on a D7 tracks, those were steel and a complete pain in the other side of the "johnson"....
Your patience and wisdom inspire me. Watching you is therapeutic. Your dishwasher repair reminds me of an incident from years ago. I let my 7 year old son run over an old freezer with a bull dozier. An event he will never forget.
Great video; love learning about fixing heavier equipment and lol @ the dishwasher segment. It will never bother anyone ever again. Totally fixed. Cheers!
Two things:) One: I was ready for the dishwasher fix so you got me there. Two: I think you are gonna be everyone’s best friend with that working excavator 😊
Love it honest approach to a first time repair…as an Engineer of 40 years the chance to do a project a second time and use the experience never happened so I crack on I love your attitude
Another great video. Just a thought on the two tracks not operating at the same speed. I have done many tracked pieces of equipment and in a couple of cases it was the actuation of the drive that was not engaging the same. In other words the control linkage. Might want to check that first. I am sure you can check this out pretty quickly and verify that when both levers are fully actuated that they are running at the same speed. If not then yes likely a bigger repair. Love the repair of the dishwasher. We have some really big logging equipment like a "Feller buncher and grapple skidders" and I have used them on occasion to punish uncooperative appliances after wasting a lot of time on them.🤣
I have a tip for you for dealing with those tracks. When I was young and needed to learn trade skills, I started reading books. Most of them had the same piece of advice that made more sense than almost anything else I learned. If you want to learn how to do something, go watch a professional do it. Hopefully you can watch for a while to get all the intricacies and finesse of each movement. If they make something hard look easy that's the way you want to do it. I once had to change a semi-truck tire, they are big and heavy. Fortunately, our class had once guy who did that for a living and made it look so easy. While all the other students wrestled with the tire trying to get it on the rim, he just lined it up next to the rim and let it fall over right on top. Don't you know that tire flopped right onto the rim. All that was left was to slip a big bar into the tire and spin it around once time to finish fitting the tire over the rim. Watching people make things look easy is like touring an art gallery, poetry in motion.
Really fun videos and thoroughly enjoyable! Just a couple of comments. Stripping down-more liberal use of penetrating oil (WD40 or similar) and leave overnight - works 9 times out of 10. Sliding metal to metal contact such as idler wheel jockey on the tracks and so on, clean and grease! When you're tensioning these will bind like mad with rust and muck present. I know it will get dirty, but will be easier to clean and adjustments will always be much easier. You probably wouldn't do this on a rental unit, but it's yours and grease is cheap (white waterproof grease on these parts)!
Always love the matter of fact approach you have to tasks, please forgive if I'm compleatly wrong but are there any adjustments for the leavers under the floor plate perhaps a boly has come loose lengthening a rod.
Really in depth, Farmineering Is all about trying to do what you can with what you've got. You certainly make good use of your tools and find workarounds for problems. Very education and interesting
I think one thing that's instructive to keep in mind is that these are called tracks. As in traction. As in friction. They're designed and intended be really hard to slide across a surface. Might have been advisable to toss a layer of cardboard on the ground, for the track to slide on. That digging pry bar under the blade frame was genius.
Always nice to have the right tools to fix things. Great job on the seals. I would say a New Track cost about $2,500.00 ? I'm glad you are OK when you Fell over ! WOW, I was close Jon, $2,300.00.......WOW ! I just knew you where going to Crush that Dishwasher............LOL🤣🤣🤣
The price of that new track is absolutely INSANE to me !! Now I’m curious about the process how they are made and what exact material and all . Or , are they just making a killing on these things or what.
That dishwasher "repair" was awesome. Replaced the flow meter on my Bosch about two years ago and the electronics decided to take a dirt nap a few weeks ago. Having then looked at a bunch of them, I can say with some confidence - they are all GAR-BIJ. Went with another Bosch but it is not nearly as well built as the 12yr old one it's replacing.
I use ratcheting load binders and chains to install tracks by myself on excavators by myself at work. It saves my back and feet. I hook the chains/binders to whatever stationary thing is next to the machine or a forklift.
How do you feel about the purchase of this excavator do you like it? I think you got dealt some crappy problems but I imagine those older Japanese minis are really strong. I bought an IHI 30J for 18k and I put a new track on it, built a thumb for it, and replaced battery alternator and glow plug controller. Been a beast
@@FarmCraft101 really looking forward to a future video addressing the track speed problem. My IHI 30j has a very similar problem except only in the forward direction. Reverses great but the left side tracks slow going forward. It still has "dozing" torque but it's slow going forward and especially uphill. Pretty much reverse everywhere when traveling.
Thanks for taking the time to film and share! I was going to ask where the grease was escaping from if it was not holding pressure…but you answered that.
For "shaving" that teflon looking ring. Perhaps get a piece of stock and turn it slightly larger than the ID then put the inner ring on it. Might have enough friction that you could use the lathe to remove just a bit of the OD.
Jon, thank you for filming and sharing this with us. The camera slide and tip over was brilliant, "you're alright, quit chyer belly aching" 🤣👏 Found your channel for your Johnson, stayed for Jon. You've given me some better ideas of how to handle large things and not hurt yourself, which comes in handy in the morning, you know? Handling the awesomeness... OK fine, but it has been fun to watch and learn, I do a lot of car, trailer, and engine repairs for fun, it's good knowledge to be able to use. Cheers! 🍻😎
John, the reason the track wouldn't get to the 1/2" spec is due to the ideler spring being a bit weak and compressing the spring rather than pushing the ideler out. My new one will barely make it, it's probably designed that way to prevent over tightening...my guess. Check that new track after a few laps, they are in quick and might need adjusted a bit. Truck and Tracks is a great place to go for tracks, they have anything from the cheap stuff to the good stuff...use code DIRT for a one time 20 '/. off. Great job John!👍
Hole saw plug. Use that as the anvil, load it into a drill and sand off the extra backup ring material. If you want to check your progress, take a Sharpie and smear the corner of the ID with a fine line of overspill. Rest the side of the tip on the corner and go around the ID. The overspilled ink will leave a fine, consistent line.
I dont work on work equipment, but am a mechanic. The backup ring which is hard and stiff, is from my experience there to keep the actual O-ring in place, and I bet you its needed when you release the pressure, otherwise the piston would probably drag the O-ring down. Great video though, I would taking it apart was the right thing to do, would have done the same, now you know for sure what the condition of the parts are. Keep it up!
If I ain't mistaken, those drive motors have a hydraulic valve that gets pressure from both sides to run the tracks. If the valve gets off on the pressure on either side, it will track to one side or the other. Valve pressure should be the same within say five pounds of pressure to keep them even. Look in your manual to see what I am referring to. Should be a oil line from either side going to a valve in the center of them, like a distributional valve. Its only theory at this point as I don't have knowledge of your machine. Its how it works on a cat machine
Awesome fix john. One suggestion. The distance from your barn to the roadside where you removed the trees was substantial. If it were me, i’da trailered it there. Save your machine. It’s a sweet rig. Can’t wait to see more.
Get Surfshark VPN at surfshark.deals/FARMCRAFT - enter promo code FARMCRAFT for 83% off and 3 extra months for free! Really glad to have my excavator back in action, and it will hopefully be a good reliable machine for a long time from here on out. Have an awesome weekend everybody, and thanks for your support!
I have surfshark. it sucks beyond the definition of sucks more than a black hole. I have to turn it off to do my banking and shopping and the ad blocker does nothing.
Was it doing the crab walk before you did the rotator manifold? I hope it was honestly (well I hope it just fixes itself and you don’t have to do anything lol) Cause it’s way easier to rebuild a drive motor then it is to pull that dam rotator manifold back out.
For putting the tracks on, especially with no help, I am pretty sure I have seen people using ratchet straps and come-alongs to finagle them into place.
I wish the VPN trick would actually work. I've tried a few of the top VPNs and success is limited. Seems that at least for me in my area, Netflix and Prime able to determine I'm still in Canada. Oh well, means watching more of your content!
I think your half inch is supposed to be measured on the top, not the bottom.
Normally the backup ring goes on the outside, opposite of the pressure. The purpose is to cushion things and keep the o-ring from squeezing out the tiny gap between the gland and piston.
Wes, Can you help him with info about the different drive track speeds?
High compliments seeing you here!
@@MRrwmac Sorry, the drives are out of my wheelhouse.
@Watch Wes Work - Thanks. Makes sense now that it’s explained. I’m pretty sure I put them back the way they I found them, but that’s wrong apparently. 🤦♂️
@@MRrwmac maybe mecanical link "rod" that open and closes main oil distribution valves not adjusted correct or maybe a kink in oil hose that feeds the final drive on that side maybe?
The seal jokes just don't get old for me😆
You are really good at fixing dish washers. Well done.
My dishwasher is the old flesh type. Will this work with that as well? Haha
If you can plumb it up its still going to leak and badly! But ready for landfill.
@@itsnetts just make sure you put down a tarp and it absolutely will work!
Hearing the rain falling on the roof while you work undercover shows progress in a short period of time.
John, as a cocky myself here in Australia I really appreciate your “never say die” attitude and your approach to having a crack at everything. I also like the self examination process you go through for self improvement, really impressive mate. Most of all I really liked you service technique towards dishwashers, absolute bull terror, well done cobber.
Bull terror? Or "ball tearer"?
Rapidly becoming one of my favourite channels - your talents in fixing things is really impressive - but most of all, your presentation, honesty on successes and failure is great.
you know youre on the right track when there is a new farmcraft video on a friday night
nice pun
I see what you did there, but it was the LEFT track....or...does it even matter.
Yep! Got the heating blankets on high, some Pecans and a glass pf water. Life is good!
@@lavasiouxwindwater9789 I don’t believe I’ve ever heard of anyone describing a comfortable scene including a glass of water unless they were in a life raft or a desert.
@@TheMonkdadI am pretty sure that darn autocorrect changed “gin” to “water.”
A little bit of advice coming from a heavy equipment mechanic of 10 years, you don't ever grease mating the surface between the wiper seal and the in bore of the barrel. The point of it being dry is to have a proper press fit so the wiper seal has the least possibility of being pushed back out. Furthermore, if there are dings and scratches in what's supposed to be a seal surface, that is always bad. Even if the edges of the dings and scratches aren't raised. It gives oil/fluid/grease a path to work past your sealing parts. And tracks from aftermarket companies are not as bad as you think. OEM is never your only option. And prices for OEM are always more expensive. I cannot count how many sets of tracks if priced and replaced over the years.
Before rebuilding the drive motor,check its flow rate and pressure,input/output to confirm its weakness and the linkages between the distributor and the lever.
You may be able to rent the flow meter and the pressure gauge.
Thanks.
Yep, the linkages will drag.
The very first step to testing any drive motor is checking the case drain line. There should only be minimal drip to a slow dribble.
@@Jake-if3zn Thanks.
Support rings are usually added to keep the o-ring from extruding into the gap between rib and piston in high pressure applications. Should be on the other side of the o-ring in your case since the pressure is from the inside. Probably not an issue for your application. Might be for installation purposes to avoid squeezing the o-ring when installing the piston.
Those are probably the original factory seals in the adjusters, and you'd expect them to be put in correctly. I imagine the parts or service manual also indicated which way they should be installed.
I think its more for keeping it in place when releasing the track, to keep it from sliding backwards with the piston. The force it took to put in the scraper, I will garantere will prevent the O-ring from moving outwards
The backup ring is definitely on the wrong side of the oring, backup ring always goes opposite of where the pressure is coming from.
@Henrik Strand Thanks, good to know. If I get any leakage Ill flip them around. Cheers.
@@FarmCraft101 I think you will be fine in this instance because it’s a lower pressure system, just some knowledge for the future.
I love the extra step of covering the threads so you dont cut the o-ring
what you call a swivel joint, the technical term is a rotary manifold but I'd much rather call it a swivel joint, which just makes more sense nd is straight forward.
I'm a heavy equipment mechanic, I really enjoy watching your channel and the type of person you are.
Love your videos, John. The dishwasher repair was great! It's hard to tell on the video, and I'm sure you looked them over, but... The coil springs on your idler shafts both looked very compressed to me. Is there any "spring" left in them? They should allow some travel. Might explain why you can't adjust your track up tighter. I know you said the tracks plenty tight for your taste, which they may be, but I'd be willing to bet the pistons are nearly all the way out now, even on your new tracks.
I second that, good spot!
Those springs are captive, they are fine as long as there is preload against the retainer.
Seeing you limp your excavator along brought back memories...
I worked on a farm from the age of ~10 years old until 25 (40+ years ago) and we had an old excavator with a broken track. We rarely needed to use it (we also had a backhoe, a couple of skid steers and another tractor with a loader), but when we did use it, your method of moving it with the broken track was our "normal" way of moving it around.
After years of practice you can actually get pretty quick at driving around using one track and the excavator...
Our track problem was a combination of a stripped planetary gear set, worn drive cogs and a broken tensioner. The previous owner had made the one side work by combining everything that worked on one side; so we were actually the second owners that moved it around using the one track and the bucket.
Typical farmer mentality... If it works, no matter how badly, don't mess with it...
came for the seals...stayed to watch you struggle. Love the videos! keep up the good work
Travel speed / travel speed / Travel speed
In my own experience with travel speed difference.
The problem 90 procent is adjusting the return valve for the slowest travel motor, and then after ( if speed is stil to different) adjust the other side to lower speed 😊
Hope to se you do the job. Btw the return filter is also a SUPER important issue, easily overlooked😊
Mattsson
hi farmers son here .... sit each track on 2 or three wheel dolly's...makes moving them about so much easier .....loved the dishwasher fix ...made spit my cuppa out laughing...fantastic
John I kept yelling at screen to just replace the seal on the grease fitting! I truly understand the knowledge philosophy. Great content and humor.
An idea on how to get to the 1/2 inch when tensioning the track. Before pumping grease all the way to the desired goal, lower the track all they way down onto a flat surface. I think the weight of the lower portion of the track works against you. But if that lower portion is flat, the weight of the upper portion of the track will help reduce the resistance to the grease gun. Great videos, you do an awesome job filming, explaining, and fixing stuff! I don't have any of the heavy equipment you do, but I enjoy watching your videos a lot.
Another awesome video! Nothing better then watching a man with good work ethic, good sense of humor and good moral!
Seems your'e looking at a maintenance procedure for track adjustment. Track is stiffest when new so will not yet conform at the ends. Give it some time to break-in. Also, recall that the idler is spring loaded so some grease should go to preload them a bit. You don't want the idler assembly just rattling around loose. After break-in, the spring load will be included in that 1/2 gap.
For the hydraulics you might use mechanics ears or point-and-shoot thermometer to compare the two drive valves and rule out one bypassing fluid before tackling the drive motor since it's a cheap fix.
You have a great channel that I look forward to each week.
The landscaping and tree removals, opening up that field was just joy to watch. I really like how you fix equipment, and go out to use it...
Those new tracks sure came in handy regarding the dishwasher.
I had no idea how those grease pressurized tensioners worked. Thanks for showing us!
WOW! My lucky day! Rainy nasty weather outside so I have a nice fire in the fireplace and I just finished watching another favorite channel and this pops up. So I watched it and now it's time for my afternoon nap. Perfect!!!
I found it very interesting to see the whole system torn down regardless of your final realisation. I never knew how the track adjuster worked so am happy to now know. Your videos are great, thanks
One trick I've found that works well to install slightly oversized press fit seals, is to use a large socket (like you did) but ALSO add a long extension.
The advantage of using the long extension is you can use a large sledge hammer and be confident the force is spread out well and also well centered. It is almost impossible for the seal to go in cock-eyed using this technique.
I reckon you have half an inch in wear at the idler pulley guide hole. So the idler is drooping lower and preventing you achieving half inch clearance. Great fixes John.
Nope. Electric grease gun just doesn't have enough b--ls to get enough grease in 💁
the whole not being able to adjust to within 1/2" thing just means the tensioner springs are "well-seasoned". there's nothing wrong with it. the grease pistons just take up the extra slack (hence what they're called). it's the tension springs that are giving your tracks the final tension without damaging them. they just aren't spring chickens anymore. someone may have over greased them once upon a time and over-compressed them. no big deal, the tension you have is fine. all you're trying to do is keep it from throwing a track when you do a turn or skip a tooth on the drive sprocket! nice job. i love the resourcefulness and all the right ways you know how to save an extra buck vs when to bite the bullet and pony up the cash.
Before you go and start rebuilding the travel motor check to see if you can make any adjustment at the bottom of travel motor levers around where they join onto the valve
I know for my zero turn I have one lever that adjusts so you can get hydro motors to move at the same rate.
We hat that same problem with or Volvo. Both sides needed 40 bar but one side did like 20 just couple Turns and it drove straight.
So that’s how you fix the dishwasher seal. Good job.
On my mini excavator there was a problem in the pump for uneven rotation of the tracks. I switched the hoses, so now the blade goes slow.. :D
Outstanding finish - enough repairs, time to rip out some trees! I have a couple of acres of that exact kind of thing to do. That's why I'm tolling auction sites looking for my excavator. Good job. Please don't forget to include us in on burn day! I love the smell of smoke in the morning, it smells like victory! lol
Having the thumb makes it the ideal tool for the trees in the ditch.
Having done a track and adjuster, first thing I got was a 12v grease gun. Love the washer fix and how you do things!
That new o-ring and old o-ring idea really will work for very long. That grease is applying hydraulic pressure. The backup ring is designed to take up space so the o-ring can fit through any gaps and blow out, as those springs are pretty heavy-duty looking. Just sure you put on the right side of the o-ring it does make a difference of leaking or not leaking. We had a 150 punch press with a hydraulic overload cylinder that used that same principal..
Hi John. Discovered your channel about a month ago and have gone back and watched almost every video you put out. Appreciate what you do. It's channels like yours is why I don't have or need cable!
You pulled the cylinder, at that point you might as well replace the o-rings. I probably wouldn’t have done the wipers just to save time and money but that’s me. The back up teflon ring should just keep the o-ring in place I wouldn’t sweat it. I like watching you figure stuff out and I really appreciate how brave you are just tearing into stuff I think you really give some confidence to guys that might be a little more hesitant working on their own stuff.
I wonder if the backer ring (spacer) could be trimed by your lathe? Maybe mount it to a pipe?
squeeze it between 2 big washers or spacers on the lathe to trim it.
Mark Welch :That is what I was thinking, used to machine rubber that way 40 years ago.
@@systemsrenegade9888 great idea!
Very clever trick with lifting the "dead" track off the ground! Love your channel and presentation in general.
Love your mini videos since I have identical machine. I just took all the rollers out to replace and found the rollers were wearing into their holding plates, almost 1/2 way through. I welded up the grooves to add more metal so they would not wear through and cause extensive damage later. Also, I use come alongs hooked to my front bucket area (the side swing helps for each track, as it still holds the machine up. I am too old to use crow bars and hurt my back. Getting over the upper carrier wheel I use a board to the inside slope and on the outside of the track use a scissor jack on a 6x6 to raise it to clean the lip. Also the front idler wheel you can no longer get rebuild kits, you have to buy the entire assembly, here in Ontario Canada, a single idler wheel assembly from Yanmar is $2,200. I order mine direct from China, in advance. Not the same quality but at $170 each, for the amount of personal use the machine gets, I can buy several and keep a set on hand for back ups
When i was in the military we just set the track on the drive wheel and let the machine pull it on, because it will do that. Saves a ton of work and trouble, those tracks were hefty things, if i remember correctly 2-2.5 metric tons each. There wasnt a candle in a hurricanes chance we could ever do it manually.
Another great video John. Loved the repair of the dishwasher 👍
Re: tracking straight, one new track and one very worn track will make a difference in the way the machine moves 😊great dishwasher repair! Very Camarata like 😂
Hi John, thank you for all the informative, entertaining and encouraging videos. I like that you are honest. People need to understand that we learn from mistakes and we’re not perfect at all. Also I think you answered your own question about getting the tracks tensioned to within a half an inch.
My dishwasher stopped pumping once. Turns out when pistachio shells get hot and wet, easy there, they curl up enough to get past the screen and lodge them selves into the pump impeller. Funny, I don’t even eat pistachios nor do I put the shells in coffee cups, of course it’s my fault for not seeing it before I loaded the dishwasher. Nice work with the track adjusters, Sir.
I like how you fixed the dishwasher :)
In my humble opinion, you don't need the critique. You knew there was a problem. You didn't put it off due to fear of the unknown or because you thought it'd be too tough to figure out. You did what you had to do while showing/teaching us too. And you made us all laugh in the process. I knew you were a good guy. I could tell from the very first video. You may have a hard time with stuff like that. But it needs to be said... again! ☺️
P.S. Can you come over and "fix" my dishwasher!?!
Absolutely love your videos John. So easy to learn from your content whether I will ever use the knowledge or not. There just fun to watch. The next time I need to fix the door seal on dishwasher I will know exactly what to do.😁 By the way, that dishwasher looked like it was made out of “Chineseium” metal and plastic when you got done not having a problem with the door seal. Have a great weekend.
Yay!!! You've got Top-Soil Generator 2: The Ditch.... Every end of fall, clean out your ditch with your excavator, get it into your dump-truck and put it to the pile of your main top-soil generator. Due to the fact that you want your ditch to be open and clean (to get your snow in, or get your water out), only helps if you keep it clean, to the sub-soil level.
Just sayin' 🙂
Great video! I`m actually gonna check out a loose track on my Yanmat Vio75. Thanks to you I now know how to adress the problem, and I thank you allot for it👌.
Love your videos. Especially the excavator ones.
Hop in the cab and spin the tracks a few times as you tighten while the machine is off the ground. I’ve noticed after the first couple revolutions the track actually tightens a little instead of loosening. 1/2” is normal slack. Trust me you don’t want a track popping off in the mud at the worst time possible. An inch is roughly what the steel tracks require. At least on the bobcats anyway. Just my two cents working on an e55
Great video as always. Thank you for the time and effort you put into making them.
I can't believe how simple that track adjustment is. Really apprieciate the video. I liked how you fixed the dishwasher. The tracking problem has more to do with the linkage or cables in the levers than in the tracks.
Nice job , this video helped me a lot . I’m about to get one similar to yours and this has made me a little more confident in doing my own repairs. Thanks again.
The amount of patience you have is humbling... I could never video anything complicated I do, because I'd be bleeping the entire thing out.
I love these fixing vids on excavators
It should break more often.
My KX-121 Excavator also tracked slow. When I went to change the gear oil in them the slow side final drive was like draining a septic tank. It was ate up bad. Rebuilding the final drive is simple though, just remove the track, pull the lines, and remove the sprocket. Then carefully drop it in a junk pile and install a rebuilt one. BTW, never had a dishwasher need repaired, but did have an undercounter ice maker need some work done to it. Nothing fixes an icemaker like 4 lbs of Tannerite. It definitely doesn't make all that racket anymore.
You can make your own seal puller easily. By bending a square rod and grinding down the end into a hook and then bending the other end tpo allow you to hit with hammer and add a handle to hold the tool while hammering.
There are linkages directly below the drive sticks. They are accessible from the front of the cab below the floor. These are notorious for sticking, we spray with penetrating oil a few times a year. Helps some with the tracks running different speeds.
I'm always amazed by how heavy those tracks are. I know they're not, but I keep thinking they should be light.
I think we think of them as light because we're used to car tires being quite big yet weighing not much because of air, but these tracks are solid rubber with steel inside :)
I've had to work on both Rubber and steel tracks and in the end, rubber tracks are light compared to full steel tracks lol. You wrestle those buggers around with chains and come-alongs.
@@keithyinger3326 Isn't a single link on a steel track like 40 pounds even on the smaller excavators?
@@itsnetts ya, at least 40 lbs each for smaller tracks. D8 tracks weigh a lot more. Even the tracks on the excavator probably weighs 60 is 70 lb / link. They sure feel pretty close to an 80lb bag of concrete anyways haha
@@keithyinger3326 That's wild! Thank you for sharing you experience!
John the dishwasher sequence was very satisfying
Love this content!
Great channel John, your a very smart man, it always amazes me how you just get in and do stuff I love the on the job training approach. Thanks for another great video.👍
"Buy once, cry once"... the bigger the toys the bigger the cost...
Rubber tracks are a dream...I remember my Army days working on a D7 tracks, those were steel and a complete pain in the other side of the "johnson"....
Great video John, I especially liked the dish washer fix. Thumbs up.
Your patience and wisdom inspire me. Watching you is therapeutic. Your dishwasher repair reminds me of an incident from years ago. I let my 7 year old son run over an old freezer with a bull dozier. An event he will never forget.
Great video; love learning about fixing heavier equipment and lol @ the dishwasher segment. It will never bother anyone ever again. Totally fixed. Cheers!
Two things:) One: I was ready for the dishwasher fix so you got me there. Two: I think you are gonna be everyone’s best friend with that working excavator 😊
Love it honest approach to a first time repair…as an Engineer of 40 years the chance to do a project a second time and use the experience never happened so I crack on I love your attitude
It’s honestly so amazing what a simple basic design the track frame an adjuster is. Maybe the only thing made to date that isn’t overly engineered
Slide hammer seal remover works well to stop you from prying on landings.
Like the video. great fix on washer. With your skills you could have made a pull for the seals in the time you fought with them.
Great video. Like the way you teach us, no bla bla bla, but straight to the point, not forgetting mistakes and valued advice. Thank you.
A come-a-long tool would help pull on the track. Nice job.
Another great video. Just a thought on the two tracks not operating at the same speed. I have done many tracked pieces of equipment and in a couple of cases it was the actuation of the drive that was not engaging the same. In other words the control linkage. Might want to check that first. I am sure you can check this out pretty quickly and verify that when both levers are fully actuated that they are running at the same speed. If not then yes likely a bigger repair. Love the repair of the dishwasher. We have some really big logging equipment like a "Feller buncher and grapple skidders" and I have used them on occasion to punish uncooperative appliances after wasting a lot of time on them.🤣
Nice video, Jon. I always learn from the projects you take on.
I have a tip for you for dealing with those tracks. When I was young and needed to learn trade skills, I started reading books. Most of them had the same piece of advice that made more sense than almost anything else I learned. If you want to learn how to do something, go watch a professional do it. Hopefully you can watch for a while to get all the intricacies and finesse of each movement. If they make something hard look easy that's the way you want to do it. I once had to change a semi-truck tire, they are big and heavy. Fortunately, our class had once guy who did that for a living and made it look so easy. While all the other students wrestled with the tire trying to get it on the rim, he just lined it up next to the rim and let it fall over right on top. Don't you know that tire flopped right onto the rim. All that was left was to slip a big bar into the tire and spin it around once time to finish fitting the tire over the rim. Watching people make things look easy is like touring an art gallery, poetry in motion.
You need a Lock-n- Lube end for your new grease fun!! They work amazing!!
Love those. Makes the lube jobs so much faster and easier.
Really fun videos and thoroughly enjoyable! Just a couple of comments. Stripping down-more liberal use of penetrating oil (WD40 or similar) and leave overnight - works 9 times out of 10. Sliding metal to metal contact such as idler wheel jockey on the tracks and so on, clean and grease! When you're tensioning these will bind like mad with rust and muck present. I know it will get dirty, but will be easier to clean and adjustments will always be much easier. You probably wouldn't do this on a rental unit, but it's yours and grease is cheap (white waterproof grease on these parts)!
Always love the matter of fact approach you have to tasks, please forgive if I'm compleatly wrong but are there any adjustments for the leavers under the floor plate perhaps a boly has come loose lengthening a rod.
Really in depth, Farmineering Is all about trying to do what you can with what you've got. You certainly make good use of your tools and find workarounds for problems. Very education and interesting
Liked it before I watched it, 'cause I KNOW ITS GONNA BE GOOD!!!
I do the same thing every time 😅👍
I think one thing that's instructive to keep in mind is that these are called tracks. As in traction. As in friction. They're designed and intended be really hard to slide across a surface. Might have been advisable to toss a layer of cardboard on the ground, for the track to slide on. That digging pry bar under the blade frame was genius.
might want to do a retake on the opening shot, the correct sentence should be: "working on the excavator today... again...."
He's saving that for the manlift
Always nice to have the right tools to fix things. Great job on the seals. I would say a New Track cost about $2,500.00 ? I'm glad you are OK when you Fell over ! WOW, I was close Jon, $2,300.00.......WOW ! I just knew you where going to Crush that Dishwasher............LOL🤣🤣🤣
The price of that new track is absolutely INSANE to me !! Now I’m curious about the process how they are made and what exact material and all . Or , are they just making a killing on these things or what.
That dishwasher "repair" was awesome. Replaced the flow meter on my Bosch about two years ago and the electronics decided to take a dirt nap a few weeks ago. Having then looked at a bunch of them, I can say with some confidence - they are all GAR-BIJ. Went with another Bosch but it is not nearly as well built as the 12yr old one it's replacing.
Boy I could see that dishwasher joke coming from a mile away. Still enjoyed it though!! Lol
I use ratcheting load binders and chains to install tracks by myself on excavators by myself at work. It saves my back and feet. I hook the chains/binders to whatever stationary thing is next to the machine or a forklift.
How do you feel about the purchase of this excavator do you like it? I think you got dealt some crappy problems but I imagine those older Japanese minis are really strong. I bought an IHI 30J for 18k and I put a new track on it, built a thumb for it, and replaced battery alternator and glow plug controller. Been a beast
I'm happy with it. I knew it had some issues but I got it for a good price.
@@FarmCraft101 really looking forward to a future video addressing the track speed problem. My IHI 30j has a very similar problem except only in the forward direction. Reverses great but the left side tracks slow going forward. It still has "dozing" torque but it's slow going forward and especially uphill. Pretty much reverse everywhere when traveling.
I got a IHI 55 2016 now KATO awesome strong good quality like all Japanese equipment.
Thanks for taking the time to film and share! I was going to ask where the grease was escaping from if it was not holding pressure…but you answered that.
A question
Do the idlers have grease fittings? Or are the dry? That would give you a longer life for the bearings.
For "shaving" that teflon looking ring. Perhaps get a piece of stock and turn it slightly larger than the ID then put the inner ring on it. Might have enough friction that you could use the lathe to remove just a bit of the OD.
Jon, thank you for filming and sharing this with us. The camera slide and tip over was brilliant, "you're alright, quit chyer belly aching" 🤣👏
Found your channel for your Johnson, stayed for Jon. You've given me some better ideas of how to handle large things and not hurt yourself, which comes in handy in the morning, you know? Handling the awesomeness... OK fine, but it has been fun to watch and learn, I do a lot of car, trailer, and engine repairs for fun, it's good knowledge to be able to use.
Cheers! 🍻😎
John, the reason the track wouldn't get to the 1/2" spec is due to the ideler spring being a bit weak and compressing the spring rather than pushing the ideler out. My new one will barely make it, it's probably designed that way to prevent over tightening...my guess. Check that new track after a few laps, they are in quick and might need adjusted a bit. Truck and Tracks is a great place to go for tracks, they have anything from the cheap stuff to the good stuff...use code DIRT for a one time 20 '/. off. Great job John!👍
I like the grappling equipment. It makes your excavator so much more useful.
Hole saw plug. Use that as the anvil, load it into a drill and sand off the extra backup ring material. If you want to check your progress, take a Sharpie and smear the corner of the ID with a fine line of overspill. Rest the side of the tip on the corner and go around the ID. The overspilled ink will leave a fine, consistent line.
I love how limping in is literally using the bucket like a crutch and limping.
I love the dishwasher smash! The new ones are junk.
I dont work on work equipment, but am a mechanic. The backup ring which is hard and stiff, is from my experience there to keep the actual O-ring in place, and I bet you its needed when you release the pressure, otherwise the piston would probably drag the O-ring down.
Great video though, I would taking it apart was the right thing to do, would have done the same, now you know for sure what the condition of the parts are. Keep it up!
If I ain't mistaken, those drive motors have a hydraulic valve that gets pressure from both sides to run the tracks. If the valve gets off on the pressure on either side, it will track to one side or the other. Valve pressure should be the same within say five pounds of pressure to keep them even. Look in your manual to see what I am referring to. Should be a oil line from either side going to a valve in the center of them, like a distributional valve. Its only theory at this point as I don't have knowledge of your machine. Its how it works on a cat machine
Awesome fix john. One suggestion. The distance from your barn to the roadside where you removed the trees was substantial. If it were me, i’da trailered it there. Save your machine. It’s a sweet rig. Can’t wait to see more.