Like the video? Hit that thumbs up button and let me know this is the content you want to see! Want to support the channel and help me make more videos? Join me on Patreon: www.patreon.com/FarmCraft101. Or check my amazon store, link in description. Here's a link to the tick socks video: ua-cam.com/video/WDnPUDRQGm4/v-deo.html. Cheers everybody! And have an awesome weekend!
We had a similar rock that kept destroying lawn mower blades in our side yard back in the 70s. Father decided one weekend to get rid of it. Turned out it was 5 ft in diameter. We reduced that sucker to rubble with a manual star drill and a sledge hammer (free kid labor). As soon as you pointed to the top of that one I knew the story.
Hey mate thanks for the channel shout out we appreciate it! 😎👊 You did a good job there working with what you had. Before the lineboring setup that's how I used to do it, boring in the milling machine. The lineborer has definitely made life easier! 😂 keep up the great videos 😎👍
I came to the comments to recommend the CEE channel. (*edit- Wasn't patient enough to see that it was in the video 🤦♂️) Give Homie some scritches for me!
I love your videos Bro. I'm 70 yrs now and I grew up on a farm. We fixed our equipment in the field where ever they broke down. We had only the tools on board. You would LAUGH at some of the things we used. But we made it work !! HoooAH ?
Mate, absolutely amazing effort fixing the slop in that bucket. Even though we all wish we had a workshop like Cutting Edge Engineering, you did an amazing job with your mill and lathe. Seeing the bit drop in both times was chef kiss perfect, and then working with the imperfection to get the job done ... impressive! Subscribed and liked, please make another video on how you fix up the track. All the best from land down under.
@@buildingsalvage Continents, and price range. I love CEE (and Homie), as do we all, as we rightly should. But to CEE, UA-cam is secondary, they're a business, remember the workshop he has that we wish FarmCraft had? CEE caters to a very very boutique and heavily government subsidized market + there's a material shortage (so costs even more). The time CEE would have spent lineboring, welding, lineboring, freeze-fit, on the pin ears for this Yanmar Stick, for the money it is that you THINK they should be doing it for, he could have spent the same time and effort doing the same exact thing for 5-10 times more because that's how much their customers are willing to pay. CEE and FarmCraft could have practically been neighbors and it wouldn't have made any difference unless they were friends doing favors to one another. Not to put CEE or FarmCraft (who did an excellent repair btw) in negative light or anything of course, and if CEE wants to correct me on anything that I've said, they're free to do just that.
Just as an important note, that quick attach housing is loose because the pin is supposed to be statinary. It is supposed to turn with the pin. There are no bushings in there for a reason. Your pin is supposed to have a hole drilled in it to hold a split pin. That is why one of the bosses had a hole in the casting. If you leave it like that it will wear out again, grease or not. The only part of the pin supposed to move is the bushings in the stick and the thumb.
The first side he bored on the mill had a hole which should have had a pin though it and a matching hole (missing?) in the main pin to stop it rotating. The rear pin had an "ear" and a bolt holding the pin in and stopping it turning which will be why it wasn't as worn.
At 8:25 it looks like you can see the hole in the pin. Not sure how the hole in the casting and matching hole in the pin didn't set off a light bulb. But I've missed obvious stuff too.
These videos just get better and better. What a boss repair! Also love the way you speed up the lengthy parts, without missing what's happening. Found some other channels which haven't realized this trick.
Suggestion for that rock: use your drill to drill a couple of vertical holes in it that will fill with rain water. If your area ever freezes in the winter (or with some external help, LN/propane/dry ice) the freezing will eventually break the top of the rock.
Go Egyptian style, hammer in a wood wedge then get it wet, it will break the rock when it expands. Or use the fancy expando stuff or whatever those guys are talking about.
The rock will gradually work its way up so generations of people will have to deal with it a few inches at a time. Or someone can deal with it all at once.
does not matter if your country sink then grease fitting you looking at build up with dirt in the holes they are not a right or wrong way to do it how any time i had to change out the grease fitting when the damaged by Debra too
That's actually a good idea, I did that on my mini, the grease fittings on the end of the stick by the dog bone kept breaking off. Haven't had to replace one since
On the Fourth of July, drill a 3/4 inch hole in the top of that rock as deep as you can. Fill it with black powder, put a long fuse in it, pile on a couple of large sand bags and light it at dusk. That rock will never be a problem for you again. Less than an hour work. Nice work with the sleeves on the bucket, I am impressed.
For the rock: Drill some vertical holes from the top. Either stuff them with real dry wood and wet it afterwards, or fill in some rock breaker expanding stuff. Enjoyed as always. Weekend Stuff
In my opinion, the quick coupler hole was worn becouse an incorrect fitting. The pin should stay stationary with the coupler, you can see that from the fact that the coupler had holes for insert a bolt to stop the rotation of the pin. When they installed the finger has removed that feature and now the pin stay stationary with the stick arm and wear the bore. Recentrly, Dirt perfect has installed a new thumb to his new hyundai and he welded a piece to the coupler and the pin has ear to engage in it to avoid that problem. Your video are ansome, truly they are! Better and better!
I've been watching you're videos for a while now and I know you had some difficulties getting traction a while back. I have to say the sheer quality of your videos is really excellent! I hope your channel is getting the numbers it deserves.
Our farm had a bunch of those limestone rocks peaking out above the ground just waiting to destroy a piece of equipment. We finally rented a compressor and jack hammer, bored holes in the rocks and had a guy come out with a few sticks of dynamite and took care of them for good. Fortunately, I don't believe you do any plowing so you don't have to go so deep but in our case, we blew the rocks out deep enough so that a plow would not hook them when cultivating the fields. Great video. I'm just so impressed by your "I can do this, let's get it done" attitude.
nice work, just for future reference, you can use your lathe as an impromptu line bore, as long as your bed travel is at least double the width of the part, you need to make a solid bar that you can run between centers with cutters added through the bar in 1 or more locations. takes a bit to set up but once used to it you will get perfect bore alignment every time.
another option for the milling solution... bore & bush one side complete then attach that side to the mil table. Insert a straight, close-fit rod in that completed bushing that extends up through the now upper socket and indicate the rod to locate its bore center.
Can't believe I just sat through 45 minutes of someone repairing a sloppy bushing on an excavator. But I did. And I enjoyed it. Cool to see insight into DIY repairs needed on a family farm. Add this to Abom and OldTony as one of my new favorites.
"insert innuendo here" LMAO . And here I thought making the little custom wrench in the first Yanmar video was impressive. Man, you have serious skills and experience. Thanks for sharing.
Dynamite to the rock would have been great! Maybe not to the level of Andrew Camatera, but still... Amazing work on the bucket. I am totally here for that type of content. You are seriously a man of MANY skills.
You need to get yourself a set of feather and wedges. You just drill a line of holes a few inches apart, insert the wedges, then hit them in sequence. The rock will crack off pretty much in line with your holes. You could have dug a foot or so down and popped the top right off that rock.
This "feathering" process is thousands of years old and is astonishingly effective on rocks and even concrete without steel reinforcement. I had to do this once where the extra concrete not used in my house foundation was dumped by the contractor. A foot thick and 3 feet long chunk in a very unfortunate location that just had to go.
In Japan (I’ve lived here 32 years) the tapered pipe threads are all inch. The story I’ve heard is that after the war, a lot of old tooling was shipped to Japan from the US to help rebuild the country. Love the videos. Cheers from Tokyo!
You're absolutely right. Not only in Japan but also in Europe, in countries that never converted from imperial for the simple reason that they have always been metric, tapered thread pipe is all imperial.
LOL...I just love the sense of humour in these videos. Sometimes I don't know enough and it takes me a minute...but I get there. Thanks for this awesome education and entertainment.
An old timer once told me the best way to crack/break a rock was by building a fire around the rock and once the rock is hot from the fire to pour water on it. The difference in temperature cracks the rock open. Another enjoyable video, Thanks for sharing.
i would have the removed the side blades completely cause when you want to dig a nice ditch for cables or piping they are very anoying. But as always, nice vid and greetings from a German operator! Edit: plz dont slam stuff with the excavator or you will need new bushings and a plan to fix cracks very soon.
he should also avoid moving things sideways with a high load aswell, the stick and bom bushings does not like that and probably is what most of the other wobble is coming from.
@@John-yo7kh nah using the machine for that is fine. Holding the bucket flat and swinging from left to right to grade is way worse, as well as slamming or pressing the side of the bucket into something
@@timvolkmer1121 ain't that included in what i just wrote, moving things sideways with a high load... grading or moving stuff sideways with a low load is usually fine but should be avoided because they are not built for it.. Greetings from a swedish ew180c operator with a rototilt.
You have the patience of Job and the brains of, well someone a lot smarter than me! If you have more protruding stones like that you want to get rid of before you get a rock hammer, try a Chop saw/Quickie saw with a carbide or diamond tipped blade. You could have scored that thing like a checkerboard then busted up the top. Retired Mason. I can't imagine the amount of stone, bricks, blocks and a lot of rebar and angle iron for lintels I cut over my life.
Curtis is a pretty good amateur machinist, amazing should be reserved for those in the trade. If he was amazing he would've used a dial indicator on a shaft in the chuck to index the lower bore before boring out the second one at the top, then they would have been concentric. I spotted that mistake before he made it. But as a tech guy for 25 years, I sometimes miss my machining days.
Vice grips: best invention since sliced bread! The guy (or girl) who invented these should be rewarded with a Nobel price. Also in a weird, and maybe sadistic way, I like to see you struggle (and not give up) to get a job done.
Love your videos man! I'm a retired millwright and I really enjoy repairing stuff, better than making new stuff. Very satisfying to save stuff from going to the dump, besides the ridiculous prices on new stuff.
Hi, to get out the two smaller pins, remove snap rings and set screws, pump grease into Zerk ,grease comes out of the small hole at the bottom of the pin through small hole pushing out the pin.
My father, many,many, years ago taught me. When you need to repair it, if it’s dirty wash it first. If it’s greasy wash it twice first. It makes the job much easier and enjoyable.
Really well done repair! I watch Cutting Edge Engineering as well and most of us don’t have the tools at our disposal that Kurtis does as part of his business. I love how you adapt and overcome each obstacle and understand when good enough is what’s needed. I’ve really come to appreciate watching your channel and have applied some of your lessons learned to my shop and property. Thanks so much for taking the time to share!!
Any excavator I've run that was new enough for foot pedals has them come far enough back so you can step down on them to reverse. I'd guess that the actual pedals are missing and what you have there is just the bracket that the rubber or plastic was supposed to attach to. Still better than my old CAT E70 that you just have to angle your foot against the lever though. Well done on the bushings there, that would have been an expensive replacement or even repair from a machine shop.
I also have a Yanmar, albeit smaller, a Vio17, and it is the same thing. The pedals are absolutely garbage and the angles are not ergonomic at all. I even had to cut and modify the armrests because they were the same way. I've seen a bunch of them and they're all the same. Don't think anything is missing here.
@@Sugarkryptonite Crazy. I always hear about how good Yanmars are but I guess it's mostly the newer ones. Maybe he can make a good video about jerry rigging some pedals onto it lol
@@nathancook5354 No, they are good machines, even back to the older ones like Andrew Camarata has which is quite a bit older than this one. Ergonomics were their weak point.
Where I worked we had a Very Large Modern Machine shop. We had two machines called "May-zacks" that where computer programed and could make anything. I was amazing to see it do what ever you put in the program. We had the regular lathes, drill press and a 12ton overhead crane to load the lathe pc. of steel on to the tables or lathes. You are Amazing yourself John.
If you only knew how many times I was able to say, "That's what she said." during this video. Haha! Hey great video you are a great machinist. Here's a little tip for you next time you are trying to fit a sleeve into a collar. Putting the sleeve into the freezer that was fine, that's what you should do. However when heating the collar, go to the area on the edge where the collar is thinnest and just heat the metal there. Maybe like an inch wide section with a finer Torch flame. It will actually open the hole more as it is only expanding the metal at that section which pushes outward, almost like putting a hydraulic jack in the opening of a "C". When you heat all the metal all the way around it expands inward also.
EVERYBODY should be heading to your patreon NOW because you deserve $20 for this level of informational content! so good! DAMN this is an AWESOME video! I was 9 minutes in and I checked the runtime and was so glad to see you would be including all the details. SO MUCH TO LEARN from this, how you handle the faces, how you thought ahead for grease, making second hole smaller to allow for migration of hole - really man I cannot overstate how awesome, enjoyable and eye-opening this video is, your channel was always a fav but these are legendary level videos of late, I can tell you've really done something amazing.
Excavator guy here Your track controls should have a bottom foot piece that your heel can push down on to track backwards hooking the top with your foot is definitely not the way to go. My CAT has fixed pedals and my bobcat has folding ones, so check if there's mounting holes to fabricate a heel pedal. If not, your best bet is to create one
I thought the .002 interference fit was too much but was impressed with how you did it. After you bored the first hole I would have made a fixture with just a round plug screwed it down through the center of it to the mill bed and then indicated my spindle to it. Then used that to locate the center for the other bushing hole. Also I would not have drilled the zerk fitting holes where you did because of weaking that part. I would have drilled the pin and put the zerk fitting in the end and had a hole come out into the middle of each bushing for grease.
great work done there and a fantastic improvement in the bucket. One method you could have used to get the alignment of the second hole is to use a dti to 'clock' the already machined lower hole. You'd need to mount a long shaft say 3/4" diameter in the mill spindle and attach a dti to the bottom end of it just above the lower hole. Adjust the table position to zero the dti and the mill spindle is exactly on the lower hole. Refit the boring head in the spindle again and the second hole will be bang on center to the first. Keep up the good work . Looking forward to the next installment.
That's exactly what i was thinking about in me head! UA-cam is so great to see other machinists work and then to see comments from machinists about said work. Much can be learned :)
I was thinking the same thing as I watched this. Not sure if he has a DRO on his mill, which may have helped him get close enough to use the DTI to zero in on the bottom hole, assuring alignment of the yet to be bored upper one.
The only thing I was a little bit disappointed you said you did all that work and it was good work and you didn’t give a bit of a paint job to meet up a bit find not working on machines. I touched the parts up as I go along at the end, you end up with a 40 painted machine.❤😊😊😊😊
Great fix on the bucket, you have excellent machining skills. The new Yanmar excavators have a flip down pedals on the rear of the pedal, take a look at one at the dealership next time you're there and I'm sure making a set will be a walk in the park after fixing the bucket pins. Next time you need to bust a rock try Dexpan.👍 Great content!
8:43 my thoughts exactly. yeah, i know what a line borer is. cutting edge engineering in australia uses one. 24:14 yep, that's the one i was talking about! 37:05 you're doing it wrong. in my job training i was told to hold the bolt and turn the nut. 40:52 more challenging than you thought? that rock puts up quite a fight. 42:18 man, that thing is STUBBORN. it just REFUSES to give up. if that rock is still a problem next winter, drill some holes into the top, fill them with water and let it freeze. no rock can withstand that kind of stress. repeat as necessary.
When you were digging out the rock when you pick the bucket up in the air and smash down on it there is a knuckle between the boom and the cab is only cast steel so it will break under Big sudden impact just pointing it out and on the petals of the machine for going backwards just look up another brand of excavator and you’ll see what they have👍
That was an incredible amount of skill and effort that went into fixing the bucket slop. I was not expecting such an in depth repair. I would've had to just try to find a new part or go to a great machine shop.
The last mini excavator that I rented had a pivot point for foot operation. You may be able to simulate this by adding a leverage point on the bottom of the foot placement like the top one. This would possibly allow your heel to naturally pull back without hooking your toes.
I can’t match your knowledge or experience but I can offer a suggestion. If you’re having trouble with a dirty mechanism, clean it. The dirt can be hiding important details, and the focus of cleaning helps you understand the design of the part better. You know this instinctively, demonstrated by fixing the second hydraulic leak on your Shoney’s Big Boy excavator, but it’s easy to get trapped in a mindset of how you think something should work - rather than solving how it does work. Good videos, thanks!
There's someone in my town with same problem and people have done exactly what you did to try and fix it. It is very, very easy to fix this issue. We seem to have forgotten that making gravel was once a job. You take a 6# sledge hammer and simply start pounding the top of the rock. Pound away and slowly the rock will disintegrate from the pounding. In 30 minutes you will remove the top 6 inches of the rock. Easy breezy. I've done this to rocks in my yard that were sticking up and I've pounded dozens of big 150# rocks into little bits. Wear safety glasses and pants as stuff flies. There is an old painting called "The stone breakers" or something like that, done by a French artist showing this very thing.
I've got a Yanmar B27...3 ton so a bit smaller than yours, but have had to deal with similar repair challenges. The worst was when one of the idlers collapsed so that was a big learning curve...actually, I think it's now more repair than original. So I really love these digger videos as I'm picking up quite a few valuable points for upcoming repairs and maintenance. Thank you!
nice machine repairs, well done. a tip on the rock for next time....take one of those other small, but not too small, rocks you dug out and position it over the target area in your thumb and drop it from above. you would be amazed at what you can bust off with it, even make your own gravel. It's what I call the Fred Flintstone method. just protect your eyes. thanks for the video mister!
Hi, i am from Germany. Nice Work. I have a Yanmar B37V the complete diesel tank was rusty inside. all filters were always clogged. Last week I cut out the tank and I built a new tank out of 1.4571 stainless steel in the same size like the Original. it was a lot of work but it was worth it. I keep my fingers crossed for you in the future. P.S. Kurtis from CEE is Great! 👌
Most mini excavators have a galley in the pin and you grease the whole shebang with the hole in the pin, so they didn't install grease zerks in the moving part. Also, before you welded it up, there were holes for a retaining pin through the bore on the outside, these are to hold the pin in place so the pin rotates in the stick, not the bucket end. Your setup was probably altered when they put the thumb on there and the pin is no longer fixed to the bucket end, so it wore. That's why there were no bushings in the bucket end to begin with, it was designed to be static with relation to the pin.
That was exactly what I was thinking, the rear pin of the coupler as a locking bolt that keeps the pin from rotating in the coupler, so all the rotation is between the pin and rear linkage. The original pin for that coupler was likely similar so no rotation happened between the coupler and pin (no need for grease or zerks then), just the end of the stick and pin. The longer pin for the thumb changed that and the coupler was not designed with replaceable bushings like in the end of the stick, so the cast coupler wore easily against the hardened pin. Hopefully the "new" bushings in the coupler will "wear" better with the grease zerks added. Probably would have been a good idea to machine a shallow grove inside those "bushings" in the coupler that aligned with the new grease zerks to make sure grease gets ALL the way around the pin (not just mostly on one side....) That is the most wearing joint on the whole machine.... Just keep that pin REALLY well greased!! All that said, great job on the repair!! On the foot pedals, just weld some extensions on the rear portion of those pedals that are horizontal (parallel to the floor), so that the heel of your foot can rest on them and push down for reverse. On many machines they are hinged so you can flip them up to lay on the portion of the pedal you already have, so they don't take up extra floor space. But if you are going to use them, they do really need to be flipped up "out-of-the-way"....
When removing those two small pins for the small quick release cylinder, instead of hammering away at it use long bolt like you did, but let it do the work for you by putting a socket that's bigger than the hole you're pulling from and a nut to back the socket. Hold the bold and tighten the nut. It'll pull the pin right out regardless if it's held by setscrews.
May have been mentioned before but a great way to freeze down a bearing is to get a feed bucket fill it with isopropyl alcohol and fill that with dry ice. It doesn’t get as cold as liquid nitrogen but gets the job done.
6:15 It more likely could be a BSPT 1/8” -27 thread. That’s what my Kawasaki small engine seems to be. NPT and BSTP are nearly identical with small differences. But they might have used a standard 1/8” not for easy replacements since the grease fittings might get damaged.
Once you bore your first hole on mill. Make a light fitting pin on lathe, with a wide thick flange to clamp to your mill.(maybe drill holes in flange for cap screws into tee slots) Dial indicator pin, to get it inline with mill spindle/quill. Note table position exactly. Move table to side, and mount bored hole over clamped pin and clamp down. Return table to exact same position, and bores will be in line. You have a great channel. Cheers
I like this style of content. You are a man of many talents, thank you for sharing your skills with us. I have been watching cutting edge machine for a couple years now and that guy has some amazing equipment to work with. I hope you get that machine all sorted out its japanese so it should last a lifetime. Have a good weekend!
We have chiggers in the tall grass of our Texas cattle pastures. They are hell on a guy working on fence lines. We use an old sock filled with powdered sulphur ( powdered sulphur is available on the internet) and dust of feet/ankles/leg before we put on our work socks. We then put on the work socks and dust the outside of the work sock and the lower leg of our jeans. We enjoy your videos and wish we had all the tools and equipment you have in your shop and your smarts on how to use them.
Peanut butter or coconut oil, which is solid when cool, both make less messy and less expensive substitutes for grease to do the pushing. I even used bread, made into a mush, for smaller jobs.
@@jjock3239 Do you fill a grease gun with peanut butter or coconut oil? It takes quite a bit of pressure to get those pins out (though maybe less if you remove the set screws!) - I don't see how else you'd get enough pressure on it to actually make it work? I've seen the bread trick before - you need to use some kind of a punch to force the bread in, and I'd think you'd damage the threads on the pins doing it that way in this case.
John, you could've had fun with Dynamite on that rock. My Dad used to drill holes and pack them with Dynamite. He'd blow up rocks and stumps all the time, but he always told ME to drill holes and wait until winter to fill them with water and let nature do the work. Another fun video watching all the machining but I am glad you did the tail end with the rock and stump to give it the final purpose. I always look forward to you videos. ben/ michigan
I know this is too late for this repair, but I thought of a way to get that pin centered in the oblong holes. 1. Repair one side with a new bushing, then insert the pin so it sticks out of the second side just a little. 2. Drop the new bushing onto the pin, then mark where it goes. 3. Machine the oblong second hole so you can insert the bushing. It should be lined up quite nicely, even if it's off a tad. But it should be pretty close to dead on. I like your videos because they show me things that interest me, and which I have never or hardly ever attempted. Thank you for sharing! After having watched a number of your videos, I'm subbing on this one.
After you get set up for boring the second hole with the pin indicated, you can run a small indicator on a shaft in the chuck down through the top hole and indicate the bottom hole. Then adjust X and Y with the table so you are on center. Good luck and keep at it.
Larger Excavators have full sized foot ‘plates’ on the travel pedals that makes it comfortable to use forwards or backwards. I can see the video does not show just how much work there was in doing that ‘line-bore’ job, but it’s done now and you must be happy with the results. Great video.
The Vio 35, a little smaller than this machine, also has plates that extend backward and up a bit so you can move the tracks backward. On all the machines, up to the 349 cat, my brother and I walk them backwards if we have any distance to go. It is more comfortable to pull the handles or push my feet straight down instead of away from me.
@@CGT80 well every excavator operator should know your undercarriage is wearing 3x more when travelling backwards. That is because of the top side of the tracks are being put to tention and bushes are turning under tention inside of the sprocket tooth. That is not happening when travelling forward. I think with a rubber track machine it does not make a difference, but with steels it sure does.
@@megape95 I will have to ask my brother if he has heard of that, since he is the well seasoned operator. Our company owns the mini ex but sold off their 320 and we rent the others as needed. The mini is what really gets walked a lot while the others don't usually have to go more than a few minutes across a work area. Thanks for the tip!
Future reference, for above ground rock or rock ledge, use stone cutting wheel and make a few slices across the top of the stone and break out with sledgehammer and chisel. Remove to your hearts desire. I have rock ledge on my property and I put painted rebar markers at their locations for when I bushog. Good video.
You're doing great with the old Yanmar. One of my best homemade tools is a pair of vice grips with a nut welded on top. I thread a small slide hammer into the nut and pop loose anything I can get the grips on. Works great on oddball projects like this and very simple. I even use it for stubborn cotter pins. Might be something you can use.
Funny you say that. I've tried blowing up rocks with black powder before without success. I can't get hold of anything better. Wish I had a friend who was a demolition expert!
WOW!!!! Bam is right that was so cool and Hot I knew the theory but never have seen it work so good. I was hoping you didn’t trip or fall rushing through your work shop. Great job though. 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏.
Feel your pain on that big rock brother,i worked and retired from penndott rest area on our outramp was this 3ft.rock jutting out on hillside you could mower deck the hillside but had to use weedwacker that spot,i convinced my coworker we could hand dig,crowbar,kubota that sob well after two weeks we only had a three foot trench around it but we could budge it with digging bars that sob was as big a vw-bug we convinced ourselves we couldnt get bigwigs on board so we rocked it around till we got it turned to flatter side facing up.reburied it and finished mowing that season over it,but next yr that sucker grew an inch i swear ground heaved or something.you could still manuver around but never safely straight over again.the stone gods won that yr and i retired shortly after then not my problem now.sometimes defeat just doesnt sit well.!!enjoy love ur stuff!!snooky pa.😂😂😂😂
First of all, Your My Hero! Such skill and knowledge was used to repair the bucket assembly. Second, I'm surprised you did not just jack hammer the top of the stone instead. Great video in all!!!
Hey great job fixing the slop in that bucket.. you also made reference at the end of the video about the welds you ground off after fixing it.. and pointed at the welds on the side of your bucket.. I don’t know if you realize that the tic tac toe arrangement of those welds was done on purpose with a welding rod called hard facing rod and the arrangement of the welds is laid out in an effort to trap dirt in between the raised weld beads to decrease the wear on the sides of the bucket and only wear on the weld beads.. when those weld beads wear down they need to be done again by just laying down a fresh bead on top of them.. all cutting edges can benefit from this practice to increase their working life..
Hey fella…great bit of work. Will offfer an idea for centralising the second hole with the first. Dummy shaft with centre hole (maybe use the new bucket pin) put through first hole after you have bored and drifted the bush in..Use centre hole to centralise the boring tool exactly in line X+Yaxis. Great video thouroghly enjoying it… 🎉
Sometimes it is like watching Walter White being a farmer (jack of all trades) in all videos and with all of the comedy to boot. I've learned a lot since watching you.
@13:48 For future reference, you could have made a 1" to 2" thick plug/disc that will slip into the first hole you bored. Put a hole into the center of the plug (or anywhere really) so that you can bolt the plug to the table. Indicate the center of the plug. Slide your piece over the plug. You should now be able to bore out the opposite side in line with the first hole. You could also add additional threaded holes to the plug so that you can clamp the piece to plug. Thanks for the video!
John you are a good Engineer! I would have recommended buying a new part. This is a short term fix. There will be be different hardness in all the metals as you used a different metal for each bushing and the pin should be designed to wear vs the casting it goes into.
Amazing video, you got me with the math to heat/freeze and install the bushing. You for sure have the tools to fix just about anything that breaks down on a farm, which is just about everything on mine. I wish you lived close my farm, I would pay you to fix my sloppy excavator bucket. Great job and very interesting video!
Just so you know the reason those holes egged out is because the thumb is after market and was not installed quite correctly. From the factory the pin was designed to be fixed to the coupler and rotate in the stick. When the thumb was installed the pin now rotates in the coupler and stick and is fixed to the thumb. There are a couple ways to fix that. Ideally the thumb should have grease zercs and bushings and the pin should have stayed fixed to the coupler. Love your videos by the way.
Had to do track repairs on a Terex skid steer, bought a bench press, as well as pullers and presses, best spent money. Have a 5.5 ton kobelco so will be watching more of your videos.
Great video Jon. You did very well fixing those bad holes with new bushings. Your skills on the mill and lathe are admirable. I just like the way you approach and fix problems and your video/audio is always terrific. Good luck and Godspeed.
Like the video? Hit that thumbs up button and let me know this is the content you want to see! Want to support the channel and help me make more videos? Join me on Patreon: www.patreon.com/FarmCraft101. Or check my amazon store, link in description. Here's a link to the tick socks video: ua-cam.com/video/WDnPUDRQGm4/v-deo.html. Cheers everybody! And have an awesome weekend!
Did you notice that spry of hydraulic fluid at the beginning?
We had a similar rock that kept destroying lawn mower blades in our side yard back in the 70s. Father decided one weekend to get rid of it. Turned out it was 5 ft in diameter. We reduced that sucker to rubble with a manual star drill and a sledge hammer (free kid labor). As soon as you pointed to the top of that one I knew the story.
Could you include a link to the tick socks video for us phone viewers?
@@zowiefenderblast4602 I will put it in the description too. ua-cam.com/video/WDnPUDRQGm4/v-deo.html
Thank you from a ticky midwest place
Hey mate thanks for the channel shout out we appreciate it! 😎👊 You did a good job there working with what you had. Before the lineboring setup that's how I used to do it, boring in the milling machine. The lineborer has definitely made life easier! 😂 keep up the great videos 😎👍
hey carl 😂
@@polishingturds 😆
I came to the comments to recommend the CEE channel. (*edit- Wasn't patient enough to see that it was in the video 🤦♂️)
Give Homie some scritches for me!
👋 good
Just a thought, could you have used taper wedges to split the top of the rock? Liked the video,keep them coming.
I love your videos Bro. I'm 70 yrs now and I grew up on a farm. We fixed our equipment in the field where ever they broke down. We had only the tools on board. You would LAUGH at some of the things we used. But we made it work !! HoooAH ?
Mate, absolutely amazing effort fixing the slop in that bucket. Even though we all wish we had a workshop like Cutting Edge Engineering, you did an amazing job with your mill and lathe. Seeing the bit drop in both times was chef kiss perfect, and then working with the imperfection to get the job done ... impressive! Subscribed and liked, please make another video on how you fix up the track. All the best from land down under.
Was just thinking about how this is a job for CEE …if they weren’t on different continents haha
@@buildingsalvage Continents, and price range.
I love CEE (and Homie), as do we all, as we rightly should.
But to CEE, UA-cam is secondary, they're a business, remember the workshop he has that we wish FarmCraft had? CEE caters to a very very boutique and heavily government subsidized market + there's a material shortage (so costs even more).
The time CEE would have spent lineboring, welding, lineboring, freeze-fit, on the pin ears for this Yanmar Stick, for the money it is that you THINK they should be doing it for, he could have spent the same time and effort doing the same exact thing for 5-10 times more because that's how much their customers are willing to pay.
CEE and FarmCraft could have practically been neighbors and it wouldn't have made any difference unless they were friends doing favors to one another.
Not to put CEE or FarmCraft (who did an excellent repair btw) in negative light or anything of course, and if CEE wants to correct me on anything that I've said, they're free to do just that.
Just as an important note, that quick attach housing is loose because the pin is supposed to be statinary. It is supposed to turn with the pin. There are no bushings in there for a reason. Your pin is supposed to have a hole drilled in it to hold a split pin. That is why one of the bosses had a hole in the casting. If you leave it like that it will wear out again, grease or not. The only part of the pin supposed to move is the bushings in the stick and the thumb.
The first side he bored on the mill had a hole which should have had a pin though it and a matching hole (missing?) in the main pin to stop it rotating. The rear pin had an "ear" and a bolt holding the pin in and stopping it turning which will be why it wasn't as worn.
Most excavator have a pad that is big enough to fit your heal on as well as your toe. Fun watch
At 8:25 it looks like you can see the hole in the pin. Not sure how the hole in the casting and matching hole in the pin didn't set off a light bulb. But I've missed obvious stuff too.
These videos just get better and better. What a boss repair! Also love the way you speed up the lengthy parts, without missing what's happening. Found some other channels which haven't realized this trick.
Suggestion for that rock: use your drill to drill a couple of vertical holes in it that will fill with rain water. If your area ever freezes in the winter (or with some external help, LN/propane/dry ice) the freezing will eventually break the top of the rock.
They have a cement mortar that does that. It expands when it cures, sold for rock breaking.
@@12345NoNamesLeft Its called Expando, or that is one brand anyhow.
Go Egyptian style, hammer in a wood wedge then get it wet, it will break the rock when it expands. Or use the fancy expando stuff or whatever those guys are talking about.
The rock will gradually work its way up so generations of people will have to deal with it a few inches at a time. Or someone can deal with it all at once.
Explosives?
No one needs to know you used them, unless you put on UA-cam, then you get into trouble.
But you just show rock, then no rock anymore!
You can weld cups around your grease fittings that are exposed to prevent them from breaking off and getting damaged just a tip.
does not matter if your country sink then grease fitting you looking at build up with dirt in the holes they are not a right or wrong way to do it how any time i had to change out the grease fitting when the damaged by Debra too
I have welded a large nut over a exposed grease fitting. It does fill up with dirt/wood but it's never broken.
use a nut
@@jenniferwhite6089 huh?
That's actually a good idea, I did that on my mini, the grease fittings on the end of the stick by the dog bone kept breaking off. Haven't had to replace one since
On the Fourth of July, drill a 3/4 inch hole in the top of that rock as deep as you can. Fill it with black powder, put a long fuse in it, pile on a couple of large sand bags and light it at dusk. That rock will never be a problem for you again. Less than an hour work. Nice work with the sleeves on the bucket, I am impressed.
For the rock: Drill some vertical holes from the top. Either stuff them with real dry wood and wet it afterwards, or fill in some rock breaker expanding stuff. Enjoyed as always. Weekend Stuff
A couple of shotgun shells as TNT would do the trick also.
a few wedges in each of the holes struck in a line would split the beast with out much effort. Its the way old quarry men used to hue rock
Look up feather and wedge.
That and your hammer drill makes easy work of breaking rock.
Dan Hurd on UA-cam has some videos on their use
@@footplate0 right feather and wedges.
Look into Dexpan, available from Walmart, Grainger, others.
In my opinion, the quick coupler hole was worn becouse an incorrect fitting. The pin should stay stationary with the coupler, you can see that from the fact that the coupler had holes for insert a bolt to stop the rotation of the pin. When they installed the finger has removed that feature and now the pin stay stationary with the stick arm and wear the bore. Recentrly, Dirt perfect has installed a new thumb to his new hyundai and he welded a piece to the coupler and the pin has ear to engage in it to avoid that problem. Your video are ansome, truly they are! Better and better!
I've been watching you're videos for a while now and I know you had some difficulties getting traction a while back. I have to say the sheer quality of your videos is really excellent! I hope your channel is getting the numbers it deserves.
Well, one track still needs repair so he still has traction issues.
Our farm had a bunch of those limestone rocks peaking out above the ground just waiting to destroy a piece of equipment. We finally rented a compressor and jack hammer, bored holes in the rocks and had a guy come out with a few sticks of dynamite and took care of them for good. Fortunately, I don't believe you do any plowing so you don't have to go so deep but in our case, we blew the rocks out deep enough so that a plow would not hook them when cultivating the fields. Great video. I'm just so impressed by your "I can do this, let's get it done" attitude.
nice work, just for future reference, you can use your lathe as an impromptu line bore, as long as your bed travel is at least double the width of the part, you need to make a solid bar that you can run between centers with cutters added through the bar in 1 or more locations. takes a bit to set up but once used to it you will get perfect bore alignment every time.
Keith Fenner has a few videos on this
Line boring in a centre lathe farmyard style: ua-cam.com/video/vXs-_oqdWWI/v-deo.html
Thanks man, I just might use that tip.
another option for the milling solution... bore & bush one side complete then attach that side to the mil table. Insert a straight, close-fit rod in that completed bushing that extends up through the now upper socket and indicate the rod to locate its bore center.
@@marvkaye I had a similar thought, though your idea is probably a bit easier.
Can't believe I just sat through 45 minutes of someone repairing a sloppy bushing on an excavator. But I did. And I enjoyed it. Cool to see insight into DIY repairs needed on a family farm. Add this to Abom and OldTony as one of my new favorites.
It's not much, but I did manage to change the water filter in my refrigerator this week. I'm slowly working my way up to projects like yours! 😸😸😸
Yep....I use to think I was a great DIY guy until you see stuff like this.
"insert innuendo here" LMAO . And here I thought making the little custom wrench in the first Yanmar video was impressive. Man, you have serious skills and experience. Thanks for sharing.
Dynamite to the rock would have been great! Maybe not to the level of Andrew Camatera, but still...
Amazing work on the bucket. I am totally here for that type of content. You are seriously a man of MANY skills.
here in argentina it is 2$ per dynamite stick. 😆
A quarter of a century ago I would blast rocks like that as a hobby. Sadly, things have changed.
Nice watching you work rather than too much talk by others
You need to get yourself a set of feather and wedges. You just drill a line of holes a few inches apart, insert the wedges, then hit them in sequence. The rock will crack off pretty much in line with your holes. You could have dug a foot or so down and popped the top right off that rock.
ua-cam.com/video/yevYx49I47M/v-deo.html&ab_channel=DanHurd
This "feathering" process is thousands of years old and is astonishingly effective on rocks and even concrete without steel reinforcement. I had to do this once where the extra concrete not used in my house foundation was dumped by the contractor. A foot thick and 3 feet long chunk in a very unfortunate location that just had to go.
You are amazing. A jack of all trades. Love watching you work.
In Japan (I’ve lived here 32 years) the tapered pipe threads are all inch.
The story I’ve heard is that after the war, a lot of old tooling was shipped to Japan from the US to help rebuild the country.
Love the videos.
Cheers from Tokyo!
You're absolutely right. Not only in Japan but also in Europe, in countries that never converted from imperial for the simple reason that they have always been metric, tapered thread pipe is all imperial.
LOL...I just love the sense of humour in these videos. Sometimes I don't know enough and it takes me a minute...but I get there. Thanks for this awesome education and entertainment.
An old timer once told me the best way to crack/break a rock was by building a fire around the rock and once the rock is hot from the fire to pour water on it. The difference in temperature cracks the rock open.
Another enjoyable video, Thanks for sharing.
I love your "You gotta do it till you do it so ya better get to it" attitude - only way to get it done most of the time. Well done!!!
i would have the removed the side blades completely cause when you want to dig a nice ditch for cables or piping they are very anoying. But as always, nice vid and greetings from a German operator!
Edit: plz dont slam stuff with the excavator or you will need new bushings and a plan to fix cracks very soon.
he should also avoid moving things sideways with a high load aswell, the stick and bom bushings does not like that and probably is what most of the other wobble is coming from.
@@John-yo7kh nah using the machine for that is fine. Holding the bucket flat and swinging from left to right to grade is way worse, as well as slamming or pressing the side of the bucket into something
@@timvolkmer1121 ain't that included in what i just wrote, moving things sideways with a high load... grading or moving stuff sideways with a low load is usually fine but should be avoided because they are not built for it..
Greetings from a swedish ew180c operator with a rototilt.
You have the patience of Job and the brains of, well someone a lot smarter than me! If you have more protruding stones like that you want to get rid of before you get a rock hammer, try a Chop saw/Quickie saw with a carbide or diamond tipped blade. You could have scored that thing like a checkerboard then busted up the top. Retired Mason. I can't imagine the amount of stone, bricks, blocks and a lot of rebar and angle iron for lintels I cut over my life.
Curtis is an amazing machinist!
Curtis is a pretty good amateur machinist, amazing should be reserved for those in the trade. If he was amazing he would've used a dial indicator on a shaft in the chuck to index the lower bore before boring out the second one at the top, then they would have been concentric. I spotted that mistake before he made it. But as a tech guy for 25 years, I sometimes miss my machining days.
Vice grips: best invention since sliced bread! The guy (or girl) who invented these should be rewarded with a Nobel price. Also in a weird, and maybe sadistic way, I like to see you struggle (and not give up) to get a job done.
Love your videos man! I'm a retired millwright and I really enjoy repairing stuff, better than making new stuff. Very satisfying to save stuff from going to the dump, besides the ridiculous prices on new stuff.
Same boat as JB just not a retired millwright. But still employed Millwright
Gorgeous aerial view of that land at the end
Hi, to get out the two smaller pins, remove snap rings and set screws, pump grease into Zerk ,grease comes out of the small hole at the bottom of the pin through small hole pushing out the pin.
My father, many,many, years ago taught me. When you need to repair it, if it’s dirty wash it first. If it’s greasy wash it twice first. It makes the job much easier and enjoyable.
Really well done repair! I watch Cutting Edge Engineering as well and most of us don’t have the tools at our disposal that Kurtis does as part of his business. I love how you adapt and overcome each obstacle and understand when good enough is what’s needed. I’ve really come to appreciate watching your channel and have applied some of your lessons learned to my shop and property. Thanks so much for taking the time to share!!
Im an 81 yr old x machinist.. seeing all your equipment and machinery sure makes me wish I cld go back and do it agn..
Any excavator I've run that was new enough for foot pedals has them come far enough back so you can step down on them to reverse. I'd guess that the actual pedals are missing and what you have there is just the bracket that the rubber or plastic was supposed to attach to. Still better than my old CAT E70 that you just have to angle your foot against the lever though. Well done on the bushings there, that would have been an expensive replacement or even repair from a machine shop.
I was thinking something similar. Does something fit over those foot petals that allows you to place your entire foot down and tilt forward and back.
I also have a Yanmar, albeit smaller, a Vio17, and it is the same thing. The pedals are absolutely garbage and the angles are not ergonomic at all. I even had to cut and modify the armrests because they were the same way. I've seen a bunch of them and they're all the same. Don't think anything is missing here.
@@Sugarkryptonite Crazy. I always hear about how good Yanmars are but I guess it's mostly the newer ones. Maybe he can make a good video about jerry rigging some pedals onto it lol
@@nathancook5354 No, they are good machines, even back to the older ones like Andrew Camarata has which is quite a bit older than this one. Ergonomics were their weak point.
Where I worked we had a Very Large Modern Machine shop. We had two machines called "May-zacks" that where computer programed and could make anything. I was amazing to see it do what ever you put in the program. We had the regular lathes, drill press and a 12ton overhead crane to load the lathe pc. of steel on to the tables or lathes. You are Amazing yourself John.
I love watching cutting edge engineering as well. Curtis is great. ive been enjoying watching you fix up your excavator keep up the awesome videos
If you only knew how many times I was able to say, "That's what she said." during this video. Haha! Hey great video you are a great machinist. Here's a little tip for you next time you are trying to fit a sleeve into a collar. Putting the sleeve into the freezer that was fine, that's what you should do. However when heating the collar, go to the area on the edge where the collar is thinnest and just heat the metal there. Maybe like an inch wide section with a finer Torch flame. It will actually open the hole more as it is only expanding the metal at that section which pushes outward, almost like putting a hydraulic jack in the opening of a "C". When you heat all the metal all the way around it expands inward also.
EVERYBODY should be heading to your patreon NOW because you deserve $20 for this level of informational content! so good!
DAMN this is an AWESOME video! I was 9 minutes in and I checked the runtime and was so glad to see you would be including all the details. SO MUCH TO LEARN from this, how you handle the faces, how you thought ahead for grease, making second hole smaller to allow for migration of hole - really man I cannot overstate how awesome, enjoyable and eye-opening this video is, your channel was always a fav but these are legendary level videos of late, I can tell you've really done something amazing.
Excavator guy here
Your track controls should have a bottom foot piece that your heel can push down on to track backwards hooking the top with your foot is definitely not the way to go. My CAT has fixed pedals and my bobcat has folding ones, so check if there's mounting holes to fabricate a heel pedal. If not, your best bet is to create one
Agggghhhh just track one way.😁
Great video, and first thing I thought of when you mentioned what you needed done was CEEs channel. I love watching Kurtis work his magic.
I thought the .002 interference fit was too much but was impressed with how you did it. After you bored the first hole I would have made a fixture with just a round plug screwed it down through the center of it to the mill bed and then indicated my spindle to it. Then used that to locate the center for the other bushing hole. Also I would not have drilled the zerk fitting holes where you did because of weaking that part. I would have drilled the pin and put the zerk fitting in the end and had a hole come out into the middle of each bushing for grease.
I thought about an eccentric bushing for one side, that he could have bored on the mill with the needed offset.
A lot more fun watching you do this than when I do it.
great work done there and a fantastic improvement in the bucket. One method you could have used to get the alignment of the second hole is to use a dti to 'clock' the already machined lower hole. You'd need to mount a long shaft say 3/4" diameter in the mill spindle and attach a dti to the bottom end of it just above the lower hole. Adjust the table position to zero the dti and the mill spindle is exactly on the lower hole. Refit the boring head in the spindle again and the second hole will be bang on center to the first. Keep up the good work . Looking forward to the next installment.
That's exactly what i was thinking about in me head! UA-cam is so great to see other machinists work and then to see comments from machinists about said work. Much can be learned :)
I was thinking the same thing as I watched this. Not sure if he has a DRO on his mill, which may have helped him get close enough to use the DTI to zero in on the bottom hole, assuring alignment of the yet to be bored upper one.
I knew the recommended channel "cutting edge" before watching your videos... But it's impressive, what you have done with your Limited machinery...
Your vids are getting fantastic. It's great to watch your repair triumphs in a world prone to quick disposal and replacement. Keep up the fine work!
The only thing I was a little bit disappointed you said you did all that work and it was good work and you didn’t give a bit of a paint job to meet up a bit find not working on machines. I touched the parts up as I go along at the end, you end up with a 40 painted machine.❤😊😊😊😊
Great fix on the bucket, you have excellent machining skills. The new Yanmar excavators have a flip down pedals on the rear of the pedal, take a look at one at the dealership next time you're there and I'm sure making a set will be a walk in the park after fixing the bucket pins. Next time you need to bust a rock try Dexpan.👍 Great content!
Glad to see Someone else that watches Kurtis! By far my favorite machinist.
8:43 my thoughts exactly.
yeah, i know what a line borer is. cutting edge engineering in australia uses one.
24:14 yep, that's the one i was talking about!
37:05 you're doing it wrong. in my job training i was told to hold the bolt and turn the nut.
40:52 more challenging than you thought? that rock puts up quite a fight.
42:18 man, that thing is STUBBORN. it just REFUSES to give up. if that rock is still a problem next winter, drill some holes into the top, fill them with water and let it freeze. no rock can withstand that kind of stress. repeat as necessary.
Great job on the repair! And I appreciate the stubbornness on the rock! I would have done the same thing! Keep the videos coming! Scott
When you were digging out the rock when you pick the bucket up in the air and smash down on it there is a knuckle between the boom and the cab is only cast steel so it will break under Big sudden impact just pointing it out and on the petals of the machine for going backwards just look up another brand of excavator and you’ll see what they have👍
That was an incredible amount of skill and effort that went into fixing the bucket slop. I was not expecting such an in depth repair. I would've had to just try to find a new part or go to a great machine shop.
The last mini excavator that I rented had a pivot point for foot operation. You may be able to simulate this by adding a leverage point on the bottom of the foot placement like the top one. This would possibly allow your heel to naturally pull back without hooking your toes.
I can’t match your knowledge or experience but I can offer a suggestion. If you’re having trouble with a dirty mechanism, clean it. The dirt can be hiding important details, and the focus of cleaning helps you understand the design of the part better.
You know this instinctively, demonstrated by fixing the second hydraulic leak on your Shoney’s Big Boy excavator, but it’s easy to get trapped in a mindset of how you think something should work - rather than solving how it does work.
Good videos, thanks!
Totally getting better and better with all the videos- really digging this channel :) keep up the great work, one of my favorite channels!
There's someone in my town with same problem and people have done exactly what you did to try and fix it. It is very, very easy to fix this issue. We seem to have forgotten that making gravel was once a job. You take a 6# sledge hammer and simply start pounding the top of the rock. Pound away and slowly the rock will disintegrate from the pounding. In 30 minutes you will remove the top 6 inches of the rock. Easy breezy. I've done this to rocks in my yard that were sticking up and I've pounded dozens of big 150# rocks into little bits. Wear safety glasses and pants as stuff flies. There is an old painting called "The stone breakers" or something like that, done by a French artist showing this very thing.
I've got a Yanmar B27...3 ton so a bit smaller than yours, but have had to deal with similar repair challenges. The worst was when one of the idlers collapsed so that was a big learning curve...actually, I think it's now more repair than original. So I really love these digger videos as I'm picking up quite a few valuable points for upcoming repairs and maintenance. Thank you!
nice machine repairs, well done. a tip on the rock for next time....take one of those other small, but not too small, rocks you dug out and position it over the target area in your thumb and drop it from above. you would be amazed at what you can bust off with it, even make your own gravel. It's what I call the Fred Flintstone method. just protect your eyes. thanks for the video mister!
Hi, i am from Germany.
Nice Work. I have a Yanmar B37V
the complete diesel tank was rusty inside. all filters were always clogged. Last week I cut out the tank and I built a new tank out of 1.4571 stainless steel in the same size like the Original. it was a lot of work but it was worth it. I keep my fingers crossed for you in the future. P.S. Kurtis from CEE is Great! 👌
The attention to detail is incredible!
Most mini excavators have a galley in the pin and you grease the whole shebang with the hole in the pin, so they didn't install grease zerks in the moving part. Also, before you welded it up, there were holes for a retaining pin through the bore on the outside, these are to hold the pin in place so the pin rotates in the stick, not the bucket end. Your setup was probably altered when they put the thumb on there and the pin is no longer fixed to the bucket end, so it wore. That's why there were no bushings in the bucket end to begin with, it was designed to be static with relation to the pin.
That was exactly what I was thinking, the rear pin of the coupler as a locking bolt that keeps the pin from rotating in the coupler, so all the rotation is between the pin and rear linkage. The original pin for that coupler was likely similar so no rotation happened between the coupler and pin (no need for grease or zerks then), just the end of the stick and pin. The longer pin for the thumb changed that and the coupler was not designed with replaceable bushings like in the end of the stick, so the cast coupler wore easily against the hardened pin. Hopefully the "new" bushings in the coupler will "wear" better with the grease zerks added. Probably would have been a good idea to machine a shallow grove inside those "bushings" in the coupler that aligned with the new grease zerks to make sure grease gets ALL the way around the pin (not just mostly on one side....) That is the most wearing joint on the whole machine....
Just keep that pin REALLY well greased!!
All that said, great job on the repair!!
On the foot pedals, just weld some extensions on the rear portion of those pedals that are horizontal (parallel to the floor), so that the heel of your foot can rest on them and push down for reverse. On many machines they are hinged so you can flip them up to lay on the portion of the pedal you already have, so they don't take up extra floor space. But if you are going to use them, they do really need to be flipped up "out-of-the-way"....
That bushing fitting in was SWEET.. awesome job
When removing those two small pins for the small quick release cylinder, instead of hammering away at it use long bolt like you did, but let it do the work for you by putting a socket that's bigger than the hole you're pulling from and a nut to back the socket. Hold the bold and tighten the nut. It'll pull the pin right out regardless if it's held by setscrews.
just what I was going to add
May have been mentioned before but a great way to freeze down a bearing is to get a feed bucket fill it with isopropyl alcohol and fill that with dry ice. It doesn’t get as cold as liquid nitrogen but gets the job done.
6:15 It more likely could be a BSPT 1/8” -27 thread. That’s what my Kawasaki small engine seems to be. NPT and BSTP are nearly identical with small differences.
But they might have used a standard 1/8” not for easy replacements since the grease fittings might get damaged.
Yes it is British standard pipe thread
Once you bore your first hole on mill. Make a light fitting pin on lathe, with a wide thick flange to clamp to your mill.(maybe drill holes in flange for cap screws into tee slots) Dial indicator pin, to get it inline with mill spindle/quill. Note table position exactly. Move table to side, and mount bored hole over clamped pin and clamp down. Return table to exact same position, and bores will be in line. You have a great channel. Cheers
I like this style of content. You are a man of many talents, thank you for sharing your skills with us. I have been watching cutting edge machine for a couple years now and that guy has some amazing equipment to work with. I hope you get that machine all sorted out its japanese so it should last a lifetime. Have a good weekend!
We have chiggers in the tall grass of our Texas cattle pastures. They are hell on a guy working on fence lines. We use an old sock filled with powdered sulphur ( powdered sulphur is available on the internet) and dust of feet/ankles/leg before we put on our work socks. We then put on the work socks and dust the outside of the work sock and the lower leg of our jeans. We enjoy your videos and wish we had all the tools and equipment you have in your shop and your smarts on how to use them.
It looks like the easiest way to pull those pins out would be pumping grease after removing the snap ring.
Good thinking! 👍
After loosening the set screws that he found.
Pretty sure that's why they're NPT thread - to thread in grease nipples. Pump grease in, grease pushes the pins out from the back.
Peanut butter or coconut oil, which is solid when cool, both make less messy and less expensive substitutes for grease to do the pushing. I even used bread, made into a mush, for smaller jobs.
@@jjock3239 Do you fill a grease gun with peanut butter or coconut oil? It takes quite a bit of pressure to get those pins out (though maybe less if you remove the set screws!) - I don't see how else you'd get enough pressure on it to actually make it work? I've seen the bread trick before - you need to use some kind of a punch to force the bread in, and I'd think you'd damage the threads on the pins doing it that way in this case.
John, you could've had fun with Dynamite on that rock. My Dad used to drill holes and pack them with Dynamite. He'd blow up rocks and stumps all the time, but he always told ME to drill holes and wait until winter to fill them with water and let nature do the work. Another fun video watching all the machining but I am glad you did the tail end with the rock and stump to give it the final purpose. I always look forward to you videos. ben/ michigan
I know this is too late for this repair, but I thought of a way to get that pin centered in the oblong holes.
1. Repair one side with a new bushing, then insert the pin so it sticks out of the second side just a little.
2. Drop the new bushing onto the pin, then mark where it goes.
3. Machine the oblong second hole so you can insert the bushing. It should be lined up quite nicely, even if it's off a tad. But it should be pretty close to dead on.
I like your videos because they show me things that interest me, and which I have never or hardly ever attempted. Thank you for sharing! After having watched a number of your videos, I'm subbing on this one.
After you get set up for boring the second hole with the pin indicated, you can run a small indicator
on a shaft in the chuck down through the top hole and indicate the bottom hole. Then adjust X and Y with the table so you are on center. Good luck and keep at it.
Larger Excavators have full sized foot ‘plates’ on the travel pedals that makes it comfortable to use forwards or backwards.
I can see the video does not show just how much work there was in doing that ‘line-bore’ job, but it’s done now and you must be happy with the results.
Great video.
The Vio 35, a little smaller than this machine, also has plates that extend backward and up a bit so you can move the tracks backward. On all the machines, up to the 349 cat, my brother and I walk them backwards if we have any distance to go. It is more comfortable to pull the handles or push my feet straight down instead of away from me.
@@CGT80 well every excavator operator should know your undercarriage is wearing 3x more when travelling backwards. That is because of the top side of the tracks are being put to tention and bushes are turning under tention inside of the sprocket tooth. That is not happening when travelling forward. I think with a rubber track machine it does not make a difference, but with steels it sure does.
@@megape95 I will have to ask my brother if he has heard of that, since he is the well seasoned operator. Our company owns the mini ex but sold off their 320 and we rent the others as needed. The mini is what really gets walked a lot while the others don't usually have to go more than a few minutes across a work area. Thanks for the tip!
Future reference, for above ground rock or rock ledge, use stone cutting wheel and make a few slices across the top of the stone and break out with sledgehammer and chisel. Remove to your hearts desire. I have rock ledge on my property and I put painted rebar markers at their locations for when I bushog. Good video.
Absolutely love watching any one use a lathe and milling machine of any kind ,it's such precise work when done too the epitome of it.
You're doing great with the old Yanmar. One of my best homemade tools is a pair of vice grips with a nut welded on top. I thread a small slide hammer into the nut and pop loose anything I can get the grips on. Works great on oddball projects like this and very simple. I even use it for stubborn cotter pins. Might be something you can use.
John I like you explains how use machine tools.people here alberta are shock about knowledge you explains for farmer how repair machine.thank video
Blow the rock up!!!! I vote explosives and Overwhelming Force!
Funny you say that. I've tried blowing up rocks with black powder before without success. I can't get hold of anything better. Wish I had a friend who was a demolition expert!
@@FarmCraft101 Have you tried using demolition grout?
@@FarmCraft101 anfo is easy to make but to set it off is the harder part.
@@FarmCraft101 have you tried tannerite?
Don't they sell half and quarter sticks of dynamite or it's equivalent to you farmers still or is that not a thing anymore?
Props to the machinist ingenuity using the equipment you have!
WOW!!!! Bam is right that was so cool and Hot I knew the theory but never have seen it work so good. I was hoping you didn’t trip or fall rushing through your work shop. Great job though. 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏.
Wow nice repair. You do good work ! Better then before. I thought you were going to break the machine whacking the rock like that.
Feel your pain on that big rock brother,i worked and retired from penndott rest area on our outramp was this 3ft.rock jutting out on hillside you could mower deck the hillside but had to use weedwacker that spot,i convinced my coworker we could hand dig,crowbar,kubota that sob well after two weeks we only had a three foot trench around it but we could budge it with digging bars that sob was as big a vw-bug we convinced ourselves we couldnt get bigwigs on board so we rocked it around till we got it turned to flatter side facing up.reburied it and finished mowing that season over it,but next yr that sucker grew an inch i swear ground heaved or something.you could still manuver around but never safely straight over again.the stone gods won that yr and i retired shortly after then not my problem now.sometimes defeat just doesnt sit well.!!enjoy love ur stuff!!snooky pa.😂😂😂😂
First of all, Your My Hero! Such skill and knowledge was used to repair the bucket assembly. Second, I'm surprised you did not just jack hammer the top of the stone instead. Great video in all!!!
If only I had a jack hammer!
You are a true craftsman. I watch you work and I am very impressed with your skills and knowledge. Love your videos.
Keith Fenner has 2-3 videos of making a set up to line bore on the lathe. They are well worth the watch.
Hey great job fixing the slop in that bucket.. you also made reference at the end of the video about the welds you ground off after fixing it.. and pointed at the welds on the side of your bucket.. I don’t know if you realize that the tic tac toe arrangement of those welds was done on purpose with a welding rod called hard facing rod and the arrangement of the welds is laid out in an effort to trap dirt in between the raised weld beads to decrease the wear on the sides of the bucket and only wear on the weld beads.. when those weld beads wear down they need to be done again by just laying down a fresh bead on top of them.. all cutting edges can benefit from this practice to increase their working life..
Hey fella…great bit of work.
Will offfer an idea for centralising the second hole with the first.
Dummy shaft with centre hole (maybe use the new bucket pin) put through first hole after you have bored and drifted the bush in..Use centre hole to centralise the boring tool exactly in line X+Yaxis.
Great video thouroghly enjoying it…
🎉
Sometimes it is like watching Walter White being a farmer (jack of all trades) in all videos and with all of the comedy to boot. I've learned a lot since watching you.
I just found your channel and love your videos! It's so relaxing hearing the birds chirping in the background too.
@13:48 For future reference, you could have made a 1" to 2" thick plug/disc that will slip into the first hole you bored. Put a hole into the center of the plug (or anywhere really) so that you can bolt the plug to the table. Indicate the center of the plug. Slide your piece over the plug. You should now be able to bore out the opposite side in line with the first hole. You could also add additional threaded holes to the plug so that you can clamp the piece to plug. Thanks for the video!
John you are a good Engineer! I would have recommended buying a new part. This is a short term fix. There will be be different hardness in all the metals as you used a different metal for each bushing and the pin should be designed to wear vs the casting it goes into.
Amazing video, you got me with the math to heat/freeze and install the bushing. You for sure have the tools to fix just about anything that breaks down on a farm, which is just about everything on mine. I wish you lived close my farm, I would pay you to fix my sloppy excavator bucket. Great job and very interesting video!
Just so you know the reason those holes egged out is because the thumb is after market and was not installed quite correctly. From the factory the pin was designed to be fixed to the coupler and rotate in the stick. When the thumb was installed the pin now rotates in the coupler and stick and is fixed to the thumb. There are a couple ways to fix that. Ideally the thumb should have grease zercs and bushings and the pin should have stayed fixed to the coupler. Love your videos by the way.
Gotta say. It is inspiring to watch you work. People who work with their hands and minds are mesmerizing.
Re watched because l do enjoy your engineering fixes !
Well done on your bushing craft. That was so smooth dude.
Had to do track repairs on a Terex skid steer, bought a bench press, as well as pullers and presses, best spent money. Have a 5.5 ton kobelco so will be watching more of your videos.
Great video Jon. You did very well fixing those bad holes with new bushings. Your skills on the mill and lathe are admirable. I just like the way you approach and fix problems and your video/audio is always terrific. Good luck and Godspeed.