Excavator Turbocharger And Exhaust Overhaul. Case 170B, Deutz Diesel.
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
- This was a very DIFFICULT job, hard enough to count as a mechanic's rite of passage in my book. Disagree? Let me know. But did the results make it worth it? #case #excavator #heavyequipment
Area Diesel Service video on turbo: • Large Marge : Chapter ...
The device connected between the crankcase and the intake air is a PCV valve (positive crankcase ventilation. Thanks everybody for the explanations.) It allows crankcase gases to go back to the intake, but won't allow intake air to go to the crankcase, in other words, it acts as a check valve. But also, since this engine has a turbo on it, the intake generates significant suction and would potentially draw oil from the crankcase. So the valve prevents too much suction on the crankcase and won't allow it to consume the engine oil.
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Every mechanic knows that terrible feeling in his gut when you see the nut not reaching its torque. Ow, so painful. I really admire your perseverance Jon. Really do.
He took the mechanics' initiation by fire bath with a great attitude... I was proud to see him push through too. 💪💪👍👍
Next time instead of double nutting, just screw a nut down and weld it onto the stud. It also heats down the stud. If you want to protect from rounding, double nut so they are clocked together and weld them both. Then the socket pushes on 2.
Absolutely agree. I think I was holding my breath just watching
That's awesome work Jon. Patience, perseverance and determination always wins in the end. Thanks so much for sharing it with us. Stay safe.
Spoiler!
"There's just a few bolts in the way, then I should be able to take this whole thing off."
Must be Friday. Must be Farmcraft. Must be John giving the archdemon Murphy a good old chuckle again.
The Archdemon Murphy, a perfect name! Obviously John is the Saint of Perseverance!
There is a saying: Every Twenty Minute Job Is One Broken Bolt Away From Becoming A Three Day Ordeal.
3days access to the start the job on this monster 👿 MARGE
broken or dropped bolt lol..
You know what I love about this channel? Acknowledging when something sucks (the sun, the heat) and solving it, instead of just "toughing through it."
As a farmer, I do many of the repairs John does (not nearly as well)....but it's a lot more fun to WATCH him do the work! :)
Well said.
Been working on a very broken (but also very cheap and worth the effort) Claas VOLTO 770 tedder off an on all summer. I am currently watching this video. I think that says it all.
😁
Yeah I enjoy his videos. Good work
My back hurts watching him climb that ladder crawl over the machine climb down into it 30x a day
Some thoughts from a mechanical engineer:
1) John is right about anti-seize not causing bolts to loosen. But he doesn't mention that because of the lubrication of the anti-seize need you have to lower the torque spec on the fastener. For fasteners over half an inch and a larger than 10% allowable torque spec, simply torque to minimum specification. For small fasteners that are easy to get to, under torque by 10% of minimum. For small fasteners that are hard to get to hope the machine spirit is with you.
2) as far as this machine being nearly impossible to reassemble, there was a reason Case could buy out the company.
3) don't be too hard on the guy who designed it. His bosses only wanted it to go together once. He was paid to make it last as long as the warranty was for, and be easy enough to put together with special tools. He wasn't paid to make sure shade tree mechanic could reassemble it 40 years later.
4) don't be too hard on the guys making the replacement parts. They're probably not the guys who made the parts for the machine when it was new. They're probably two or three companies further down the line. They don't have the special tools to make the parts, and not enough on order to justify making new tools. There's nobody to ask questions. And if there is, they call you stupid for asking them. Also, all the prints are superseded, parts made out of materials that don't exist anymore, like ones that contain lead. So you do the best you can with a print twice your age. And hope nobody complains.
I was looking for this comment. I ran into the same issue when torquing down bolts on my car. After I broke the third $8 bolt, I looked it up and lowered the torque spec to accommodate.
Ya live and learn.
Great video as always.
*- "there was a reason Case could buy out the company" 👍
Brian, you have an excellent understanding of the reality of what really goes on in manufacturing. I totally agree with you but, for some stupid reason, I still curse some imaginary person. I hope your realism extends to other areas of life.
@@briancox2721 Yes, agree 👍. There are ‘wet’ and ‘dry’ torque specs.
@@briancox2721 …and someone ALWAYS complains… 😂😅🥺
1 hour 40 minutes feels like nothing when it's your videos
Good job ❤
Was that really 1:40 mins!?!
What a love affair. After countless hours of perseverance, TLC, and keeping your emotions in check; you've won Large Marge over and have her purring like a kitten. Best wishes to you and LM on your future together!😄
I’ve done 100s of stud removals from aluminum cylinder heads professionally in the vehicle and you need to buy a set of stud removal sockets OTC the double nut technique doesn’t work that way you can put an impact on them once you add heat on the aluminum head not the stud and you can be very generous on the heat they are tougher than you think
And I hardly ever drill a broken stud out the welding a nut almost works 99% of the time you will have to do it numerous times I suggest a really good welder and cleaning the stud with a Dremel on the broken piece side to get a nice clean surface I even build up the stud if they are broken way down in there, the welding material doesn’t stick to the aluminum
I enjoy your videos just like seeing people restore old equipment
Oh my god I didn't even consider the weld wouldn't stick since the block is aluminum. Doh!
Very good advice.
@@howiefeltersnatcher what is the reason why you wouldn't simply replace the studs with bolts of the same thread and correct size?
I have always replaced back with studs you have a better chance for a better seal I like the copper nuts also no rust and bolts seem to back out over time you have so much vibration you don’t want to lock tight them in either so yes go back with studs if that’s what it came with
Jon, I would like to offer a comment I have reserved for VERY FEW people, but watching you deal with this project I'm reminded of Clint Eastwoods 'Gunnery Sargent Highway' from the movie "Heartbreak Ridge". Repeatedly Gunny Highway tells his troops, "Adapt. Improvise. OVERCOME!", and that is exactly what you have done here. My hat's off to you, sir!
The difference from beginning to now is absolutely amazing. I think we're all excited to see this thing take its first scoop of dirt.
Currently going through diesel mechanic school. I learn a lot there but I learn so many little things more watching you work on stuff. I love that you show how to fix things when it doesn't go exactly your way!!!
@@CluelessRanchHand I worked in a diesel shop for about 10 years… thru my teens. Never went to diesel school but now in my 50s I still rebuild the occasional early-80s Cummins in my dreams. 😂
What we did was basically a mix of Diesel Creek and FarmCraft101… bought shit at auction, broke it down and parted it out, built up new vehicles and rebuilt/maintained working ones.
Just never forget this: school is enough to get you started, but your success or failure as a mechanic come down to 2 things: your work ethic and your creative problem solving. As you build experience you’ll start seeing where to ignore what they taught you in school and where it actually helps… but in context, school is JUST enough to get you into a shop full time as a jr mechanic. The rest is up to you!
@@ArmchairDeity Jon and Matt from Diesel are like gods to me! Imagine if Jon and Matt lived close to each other and collaborate.....
@@artstudio9673 it’s an event we all can only dream of and keeping asking for. Eventually? I think it will happen… it just sort of can’t not. 😅
8:08 That's the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) breather valve. It's a one way valve to prevent the crank case sucking air in from the intake, it can only vent excess pressure out from the crankcase.
If I wanted to know anything about old machines I just ask my question under one of Johns or DieselCreeks videos.
Pro tip: If you want to get an answer to a question reall quick on the internet, just state your questions as a fact. It needs to be wrong. Someone will correct you in seconds. :-D
Haha! Putting the trolls to work for you!
So its pretty much a one way valve?
Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I know nada about these machine and am not a mechanic but I do work on my own vehicle on occasion so know the basic routing of things. When he explains to what lines this thing was attached I immediately thought "PCV valve, right?"
@@FarmCraft101 To be honest, this comment was pretty helpful and could potentioally have got you out of a pinch if the videos were posed closer to real time. (Assuming there was some problem with the pcv system) Edit: Thinking about it for a minute a stuck pcv could actually cause the smoking problems.
I'm sure someone else has made this comment already, but I think deleting the studs and going with stainless ARP bolts would have saved you some greif. I recently had to replace rusted manifolds on my boat and the worst part was dealing with the old rusted bolts holding the old ones on. I found a great set of stainless ARP manifold bolts and I will NEVER have to deal with the rusted fasteners again. In 20 years, someone can come in behind my work and get the bolts out without cussing. Yes, rusted studs is a rite of passage. I have been fixing cars for almost 40 years and that stuff sucks no matter how good at it you get. Thanks for sharing, Large Marge will dig a lot better now for sure!
Wow Jon. I am blown away by your perseverance. If I was to try doing that and filming it for UA-cam, there would be no footage left after I edited out the bleeps.
Every time I get ready to watch one of Jon’s videos I get some tools out so I have something to throw in frustration. My little contribution.😝
One man's struggle is another man's afternoon. ;)
There is thread locker Specifically made for Heli coils for Exhaust manifolds Jon Hope that helps down the road for you 40:45 @FarmCraft101
just like I commented on the last video related to the smoking issue, the added boost from the turbo being fully driven by exhaust gas would clear up the smoke. that gray haze is what you should see when the engine is under a load and fueling correctly. im amazed by your ability to make repairs on a budget but correctly enough to last and perform. as a diesel tech my hat is off to you sir!
“I’m going to turn the camera off, because it’s necessary”. Truer words have never been spoken…
Jon: "Hopefully these [exhaust manifold studs] come out easily." Me: I wonder if Jon is familiar with the Aerosmith song that comes to mind: "Dream On"! 🤣
Lol!
I was going to say something like now that he's said that we all know what's going to happen, but I like your approach better...
Best song for this video, lmao 😂 especially since it leads to screaming aahahahahaaahhhaaaahaaaaaaaaaaah😂
I'm neither a farmer nor a heavy equipment owner; however, your videos are always instructive, informative, and much (if not all) of the work that you carry out can be transposed over to everyday drive vehicles. Always look forward to the videos. Thanks.
29:00 You need one of those induction heaters like Eastwood sells, such as the MDV-790.
I actually used my neighbor yesterday on exhaust manifold bolts and it was easier than mapp gas
Have an Ali Express special myself, has worked well for me so far... Just used it the other day to heat up a recalcatrint bearing race. I could have used gas, where it was, but it heats faster than MAP and causes less heat transfer to neighboring parts. Love the damn thing,
On that manifold I'd have bigger tapped the block drill the manifold hold bigger then put a bolt in enough to hold it lol then hand gudentight 😂
*- Thanks for saying what I was thinking.*
I bought one off amazon. Works great!
27:30 quick stud puller trick. Get a nut of the same size and pitch as the stud. Run one of the flats into a band saw, cutting into the center, so it’s now a split nut. Thread it in the stud, then grip the nut with vice grips- it will clamp to the stud, not mess up the threads, should be enough grip to remove the stud, but in theory would slip before shearing the stud. I’ve also used the double nut trick, but had far better luck with the split nut- especially in cases where the threads on the stud itself aren’t in the best condition
Also used the split nut trick for holding threaded rod/bolts in a lathe for quick and dirty turning operations where you don’t need high precision.
Clever, going next to "glass & sandpaper head gasket resurface".
How often have I been thru this. The manual says: "Loosen the eight bolts and take the manifold/flange/cover off". Booktime: 6 minutes. Me, two days work later: wtf??
And in those 2 days, just how often did you have to stop and feed the Swear Jar?
Or do you use a Swear 55 Gallon Drum?
😄😁😆😅😂🤣
@@HappilyHomicidalHooligan I recognized in my 20's it was WAY easier to fill a jar with 100 one dollar bills and put the lid on. Every time I go one day without dropping F-bombs, I get to take a dollar OUT of the jar. In 32 years, there's still $100 in that jar.
@@python3574 😄😁😆😅😂🤣 That's one reason why I never used a Swear [insert container of your choice here]...
Unless it was the size of an In-Ground Pool, I'd be emptying it almost every day (I have arthritis in one hip and Tendonitis in both Rotator Cuffs) so just staggering out of bed in the morning usually involves non-stop Swearing...
I can't understand your patience. About 30 mins in I would have put 50lbs of dynomyite under Marge and wrote it off on my insurance that N Korea attacked me. Thank you for the awesome videos!
SUPER CLEAN EXHAUST!!! You have the patience of a saint... it looks like they started out with the exhaust manifold, and then they built the machine around it. Great job!
I am learning so much about how heavy equipment works, and how to repair it when it doesn't. Your videos make me want to play with junk excavator parts.
Keep on doing what you do.
Conversation as we watch this...
"If I had all the tools he has, I still wouldn't be able to do what he does."
"I don't have that kind of patience."
"Yeah, I'd drag it out in the field and set it on fire."
"I would buy a new engine before I did all that."
"I didn't know there were different types of helicoils!"
The new manifold is absolutely beautiful! All red and shiny.
More seals!
This was a heck of a job. I tought installing the exhaust and intake mainfold on our 1989 BMW 525i was a nightmare. This was way worse... Im impressed by your will to finish the job.
you are just amazing.......the patience ......the way you figure out things....... man what was CASE thinking when they built this machine
When doing exhaust manifolds, I was taught to NOT take the bolts lose completely, break them loose then TIGHTEN them back down. Exhaust manifolds always warp and apply pressure on the bolts, more pressure means harder to break loose.
1:33:00 "Been a long time". Judging by the grass around the bucket, it has been a while. Jon, you are one of the most determined people that I've see. Well Done! You inspire me to keep after it even when most people would just give up. I worked on cranberry bogs in Mass for years. We went through many of the same projects that you go through. A farm is a farm and we both worked with similar equipment and repairs to it. Keep on Jon! Thanks for the videos.
Ten past Five on a Friday afternoon, just back from work and Bang, new Farmcraft video to watch with a coffee. Perfect way to end the week, thanks John.
Same!
Ditto. 🇺🇸😎👍😁
Must have been pretty satisfying when it turned over and ran with hardly any smoke. Great job, I enjoyed watching.
That was a whole lot of determination and some serious money on an old machine. Great to see her running again and saved from the scrap yard.
Well done on those “needed “ engine repairs, Jon. Your tenacious persistence, displays of ingenuity to work around problems and crafting abilities to improve existing “weak” spots is commendable. Thanks for sharing!
25:11 You forgot to add the link to the Area Diesel Video. I myself already watched it 2 weeks ago, but other people might not have. Just a reminder. Love your content, keep up the good work and greetings from Germany!
I watched that video also, and they listed the prices for everything. I have to say that the new exhaust manifold price would have sent me off to buy a header build kit. If that 2-bolt flange isn’t available, I could plasma cut a set. Or use send cut send.
@@woods-garage Yeah same, but nice to see it now running as good as new, i'd say worth the invest and also the learning.
I love how your custom exhaust fit without taking anything else apart unlike everything else on there
After all mechanical is done, I would love to see you do a quick paint job on it. Replace the cab window and give yourself some comfort and lighting.
Never thought I’d look forward to some guy I don’t know on the internet say the word seal and insert a goofy graphic in the video, but here I am. Good to see the old machine brought back to life!
Same!
I only watch for the seals.
Wow , probably 100 Plus hours of hard, skilled work condensed into 1.5 hours, you are dedicated to Large Marge !!
Amazing display of patience and restraint, at least ON camera. Kudos on your grit.
OMG the video we've all been waiting for... for months!
3:40 - this is the "muffler" also known as "a pipe"... at least we have identified THAT part of Margie's innards... considering that even Area Diesel had issues figuring out what some pieces were, that seems less inconsequential that it should. ;)
You got to hand it to the guys that sold this machine so cheap. They knew how ragged out it was and how much work it was going to take. One man's junk is another man's treasure.
Wow, what an awesome job Jon. That thing runs so good now. Now it definitely deserves a new set of glass windows. I hope that’s the next thing you do to it.
John your tenacity is truly remarkable.
I like seeing the comments from other viewers are the same comments that I would make. That means that there are so many of us out "there" that also do this kind of work, nope can't say that! I think you go above and beyond what many of us would do! So happy to see this Large Marge video...
As a heavy mechanic that often questions engineers and their infinite wisdom. The only way i can see to do this "properly" is to have the intake and exhaust manifolds loose and basically slid on together.... looks like so much fun! 👌
If I ever do one of these manifolds ... It's getting bolts not studs . THANK YOU for the learning curve 🤩
When tightening bolts the threads will not only pull the flange into the head but they also rotate and thus apply additional shear to the thin, aluminum thread walls. With studs and nuts the stud will only exert a pulling force that's more of less evenly distributed against all the thread surface. With an aluminum head I'd be much, much comfortable tightening a nut onto s stud rather than a screwing a steel bolt into aluminium. The studs don't need much torque to sit in place, just light handtight, protecting the softer metal.
@@yason8582never knew that was the reason for studs. Thanks for the explanation 👍
I love to watch closely and see at what point that I would be so totally lost, and I only made it to 11 minutes of this hour and 37 minute video. You’re a genius!
There are two endless things: the Universe and John's patience. Not sure about the first one...
Your tenacity was on full display on this video.
You know Jon you are one of the highest pay mechanics and you get to use and keep your project
Your patience and perseverance are inspiring.
Welcome to the life of a field service tech. Now imagine a site Forman pressing you to get his only excavator running. Then after 12 hours on the ground, you get to drive a poor handling crane truck 3 hours home. Then, after getting home at 10 pm, you get to get up at 4 am and go the next headache
And get paid less then UA-camrs do
What a fucked up world we live in
😟
- I’ve often thought of the everyday mechanic that has to do this repair work for a living. You have customers or operators clocking your every move. Best of luck to you and your tough career.
A mobile RV would give a lot extra hours and save fuel.
@@tujuprojects I would guess a camper trailer might be better, so you can hook it up to your service truck and park it somewhere while you take the truck the last strech to the worksite. Unless of course you have a wife/husband that can drive the RV somewhere near and make you dinner for when you finally get "home".
You are the most patient man I know of. When that 2nd stud pulled out, I'd have started breaking stuff. ;) A perfect example of engineers not caring about the guys who have to repair/maintain what they design.
Pretty excited to see a 1-1/2+ hour FarmCraft101 video released just in time for the weekend.
God bless you, JOHN. You take on the most difficult and challenging projects, conquering them all with a cool head. Personally I’d be cussing up a storm and throwing and get extremely frustrated. I learn a lot from you, and very appreciative of you!
Great Repair!⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Learned from a technician at work -- for really stuck/corroded bolts, heat with your torch of choice then quench with your favorite penetrating oil. The idea is as you quench and the bolt shrinks back down, it pulls the penetrant into the threads
Made it to 26 mins and saw you do this
And replace the studs with bolts.
Man as a Journey Millwright it's tough watching people heat bolts to free them up. Heating up the bolt works about 20% vs about a 95% success rate from heating the parent material. I'm glad you got through it though. As always great video perfect 👌
Jon: "This is going to take a 'little' doing."
Me: "I don't think those words mean what
you think they mean, Jon."
Along time ago... When I used to work on cars... An exhaust shop guy told me to use RTV silicon to seal both sides of the gasket between a set of extractors/headers and the head. As long as the silicon does not get oxygen and metals don't get red-hot, the silicon will hold up.... Worked for me....
Seen area Diesel Service Video on the turbo wasn't able to be saved so excited for this Video Jon and the Next video on the install of the new updated goodies 1:00 @FarmCraft101
Boy that was a beast of.a repair. Impressive to see you overcome no matter what Large Marge dishes out. I am a Design Engineer for a major diesel manufacturer. Noticed a couple things you might want to address. That turbo compressor outlet is gonna get real hot when you start loading that engine consistently . Potentially up to several hundred degrees. Will probably damage that blow by hose, looks like it is almost touching. Bigger concern is that muffler outlet. I have used Donaldson mufflers, why they but the cuff on the outlet of the muffler I will never know. It will act as a natural water trap. The way it is now rain water will run down the tailpipe and into the muffler. If it sets long enough with enough rain it may eventually make it into the turbo. It they just would have left a standard tube outlet on the muffler the cuff should have gone on the tailpipe (the one you cut off) and it would act like a natural rain shield.
Seriously,, make sure you get a new deluxe fire extingusher for the excavator. Camarata learned the hard way with his engine fire and an out of date extingusher.
From what i have seen on other videos from Jon, he is pretty good with his firefighting tools. Not just having them, but actually checking and servicing them regularly. And Jon had some fire on the boomlift recently, usually an experience like that keeps you "motivated" enough to invest some time and money into fire saftey.
Once you get all the bugs worked out. You’re going to have one hell of a machine man! That excavator is a freaking beast..
A solid 80% of this turbo repair video was taking off and putting back on a manifold. God forbid we know the amount of frustration that was doing that unedited and live.
I know how happy i felt when it started up. Can imagine how many jumps of hapiness you made! :) Good job!!
Yess, another perfect Friday, CEE and FarmCraft101❤🔥✌🏻
John, aside from you being a master mechanic, may I make a suggestion? I pulled thousands of broken off bolt studs from impossible to access places. 1) No MIG. MIG is weak. Use a stick welder and a stainless 3/32" welding rod. Preferably a 312-16, but most stainless will be much better than MIG. 2) Weld a small glob of stainless onto the broken stud BEFORE you try to put a nut on it. Then, put a nut on it. This makes a much better nut to stud connection and it gives the heat time to penetrate into the block. Now, add penetrating oil. Use a low torque impact to rattle the nut/stud. This helps the penetrant to get into the threads. Try it.
Wow soo much work and money for this parts and you got it done keep them coming john you are awesome farmer mechanic etc 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊.
John, for the interference on the turbine housing -> manifold bolt....
ROTATE THE CENTER CARTRIDGE TO MAKE CLEARANCE
8:08 The curse of being so early, I also want to know what that device is!
Came to the comments for the same thing!
So far I'm told it's a PCV valve (positive crankcase ventilation). It prevents the crankcase from pulling air from the intake. So basically it's a one way valve only allowing crankcase gases to go to the intake but not vice versa. I suspect it also limits the suction produced by the turbo from actually producing negative pressure in the crankcase, so it's not just a simple check valve.
Well, according to Smokey Yunick,having negative pressure in the crankcase is a good idea. Better sealing of the rings,he claimed. And other stuff I have long forgotten.PCV valves showed up, oh,late 60s and later. One of the very first emissions control devices.@@FarmCraft101
@@paulmanson253 yeah it keeps oil filled air in the engine, that´s why smog was so bad when cars first got big on the roads, but the valve should also seperate most of the oil out of the air so the engine doens´t burn as much of it, newer big diesels do that with an replacable filter.
@@FarmCraft101It’s important to verify it’s operating correctly because a stuck-closed PCV valve will result in the crankcase becoming pressurized much higher than atmospheric pressure. In turn that tends to push oil places it shouldn’t be, such as piling sludge into the intake manifold. Worse, it’s also common for the crankcase air pressure to get high enough to blow out various crankcase seals.
Beyond all that, an engine breathing its oil isn’t going to run as well with as full power as one breathing only air and fuel. So a stuck PCV valve can cause poor running and low power, at least on some engines.
Did I mention they’re generally super cheap and easy to replace? 😅
Well that movie length episode just felt like 30 minutes. I was totally invested and cursed a few times in solidarity lol.
As usual your perseverance and problem solving skills paid off and even on camera you can tell how much better she is running, great job and awesome video as always, thanks.
How are you doing with costs? It seems like such a great service and environmentally sound thing to renovate/reboot a scrapped machine like this. Like it may not have made financial sense for the original owners, but could this make sense for other folks who could use equipment even if it's overkill for what they have to do?
Not too bad. I should be able to finish everything well under $20k. I plan to sum it all up at the end. Given a new machine like this would cost $500k, or a functional one in the shape mine will be when I am done at least $50k, I think I'm doing pretty good.
@@FarmCraft101 I would like to see you don line boring and line welding of the worn pivot points like Wotjonsez ua-cam.com/video/vXs-_oqdWWI/v-deo.html
What u saw today was $5k if I remember right from Area Diesel Service.
Jon, I've been looking forward to this video since I saw the Area Diesel Service video about Large Marge's lungs. Starting a running commentary:
• Wow, I just noticed that this is a 1 hour, 37 minute video. I think that's a record for you. 🙂
• Toasty warm in Virginia.
• Heh. Crusty chunks falling out of that pipe. 😋
• Clearing a little space to work. good idea. 👍
• Hoping for a continued 75% success (25% broken bolt) rate, or better, on those last 4 exhaust manifold nuts/bolts. 🤞
• Yay! The exhaust manifold and turbo are off!
• Jon, you are going to have SO much fun extracting those broken bolts. Thanks for sharing all the fun with us. 😃
• Good initial forensic inspection. Yeah, not looking good, particularly when you can push a turbine wheel into its housing wall.
• Mmmm, shiny new turbo, exhaust manifold, muffler, and miscellaneous pipes. FWIW, I think that was a good investment. 🙂
• Go go, mag drill!
• Anti-seize for the new studs.
• New exhaust manifold studs all installed. Great job! 😃
• Er Ma Gerd, getting the intake and exhaust manifolds on. You sir, have the patience of Job. Admirable.
• The goats are a nice little interlude in you suffering and struggles, Jon. Thanks Jennifer. 🙂
• Starter wires repair. Good idea.
• Mmm, heat shrink tape assortment. 👍
• All hail, Klein tools automatic wire strippers!
• New turbocharger going on. 😃
• All hail Curt and the team at Area Diesel Service!
• Having to remove an interfering stud to screw down an adjacent bolt makes one wonder what the manufacturing process for some of this equipment looks like, eh? 🤪
• Well done, getting that turbocharger mounted.
• A few adjustments to those exhaust pipes. Nice. Go, go Evolution chop saw! 🙂
• Good idea, to prevent the wires on the starter from hot soaking under the heat from the muffler.
• Plasma cutter. Doing a good job. 👍
• Nice job cobbling together that muffler bracket with heat shield, Jon.
• Totally agree to position the fasteners where they're easy to get to in the future, rather than looking pretty.
• Yes, that new turbo and exhaust manifold are looking good.
• Excellent start-up. Quick and easy, and sounds good.
• Large Marge runs like new, Jon! Sounds great and looks great. Job well done to you and Area Diesel Service! 🥳
Hi Jon, well done good job. Many thanks from UK.
This made working on my laptop a lot more relaxing. No matter how bad it gets, I'm in a comfy chair not a ladder outside.
Great job, John. Why is a Deutz so difficult? Because it's German. It is an frequent practice in Germany to make things in such a way that only special, anointed people with specially anointed tools can work on them. This creates classes of those who can separate from those who cannot. In American culture, mobility is a virtue. In German culture, obstruction is a virtue. This applies to everything from agricultural machines to software! Transparency is a no no! Standardization is a no no! Everything is made difficult on purpose. A German school psychologist actually told me that the DO NOT want parents involved with their childrens' education or homework or talking to teachers. Totally perverse -- literally, deliverately doing the opposite of what is logical or sensible in order to create barriers, limits, obstruction. Even the roads are poorly paved -- you are allowed to drive fast but you cannot because the roads are so bad. The state saves money while giving you the appearance of being able to drive fast. Normal people would pave the roads properly and just reduce the speed limit, like in France. Ceasar wrote about this German characteristic in Bello Galllico -- that the Germanic tribes always destroyed everything around their encampments, including fertile farming land, perfectly good houses, villages, people, in order to isolate themselves from invasion (even when they were the invaders). The principle lives on, even in farm machines. You did a heroic job! Well done! If there is ever another big war, we''ll be calling on you for help!
I really appreciate the honest videos of how much of pain it can be working on all equipment. But that commitment shows a passion which I appreciate having worked on old stuff in my lifetime. It’s always satisfying when you conquer old junk and make it work. Keep up the great work.
My favorite UA-cam channel! Also the funniest, for anyone who has ever done DIY repairs/rebuilds. 🤣 We've all been there, and it's hysterical to hear your ruminations and complaints as you work through and conquer the most difficult of situations. You're the best, John!!!
Jon, you're getting the hang of it. 1). Drilling right thru the manifold and into the head is the way to go. Handy men have to use common sense and cut corners whenever possible. A cast iron exhaust manifold is not a precision piece and sometimes the holes need to be opened up to make them work. Clear back in 1969 I got a brand new cast iron intake manifold for my 8N Ford Tractor and I immediately had to open up all the holes to get it to fit the cylinder block. 2). On blind broken studs/ bolts: Have you ever tried to weld onto a broken bolt down inside a hole? Build weld up high enough to weld a nut on it? I've seen it done with copper tubing as a shield for the good threads and it seems to work pretty good even on Aluminum threads. The broken thread gets plenty hot and it expands and contracts breaking the cold fusion/ weld. You can quench it with light oil to make it move more and maybe even get a little lube down into the threads too. You weld inside the copper tube and build mig wire weld up out of the hole so you can weld a nut on it. The weld is strong enough to put some serious torque on the broken bolt, but the threads are protected by the copper tubing, so they don't get damaged. And last). Permatex Anti-Seize is good stuff, but I have taken to putting it up inside the threaded hole as well as on the stud. I learned it doing production dynamometer runs on stainless steel exhaust manifold to head pipes. After running the manifold and head pipes beyond Red, to Orange hot, the studs would gall either in the stainless steel manifold or the nut would seize to the stud. Permatex Anti-Seize worked wonders. I believe at one time it said ingredients included ground glass to act as a lubricant after the petroleum lube was burned off. ben/ michigan
Over a hour and half of educational enjoyment for us but boy I so felt your pain.
Large Marge has finally got her lungs back and looking forward to seeing what jobs you have so to earn her keep.
Worth all the effort Sir. Your Area Diesel Service chaps are worth their weight in gold when tackling projects like yours. Thank you for posting best from the UK.
As a farmer I can say that every of us is born to struggle but your perseverance and your determination are really remarkable! I’m found in that kind of job a lot of times and I have to admit that my approach was a little too much angry and watching your calm makes me admire you for that!
His patience and stick-to-itiveness are amazing.
A little tip for you, when trying to keep the air hammer on a stud just use a hose clamp and put a piece of rubber hose on the end of the hammer. It will work as a guide to hold the end of the hammer on the stud with out marring the machined surface.
On the heat shield for the starter I really think you should of used thinner sheet steel for the shield. The thicker metal will hold and transfer heat longer where thinner metal will cool faster and not transfer heat as long as a thicker piece of flat steel.
Out of all the videos I've watched on a dozen different sites yours is one of my favorite sites. The only site that rates up to you and your channel is Keith Richkers site on his shop that repairs and builds old equipment with his skills with metal lathes and different metal fabricating machines , the only other channel is the site called Aussie Armor that restores old vintage world war two tanks and mobile equipment used in world war two. Your skills rate up with these very talented men. Just love watching you Mcgiver the things you work on.
I was going to say the same thing, that the larger mass will allow more thermal inertia and transfer heat to wires much longer. A flimsy sheet metal would likely be better. I am sure the way it is will be fine though. It is only temporary anyway.
UA-cam only allows one thumb up…you deserve Two for this grind on a Deutz repair!
Just a little tip for lubricating a new turbo is have someone hold the compressor wheel while starting so the oil can circulate without the shaft spinning!
I love the longer videos by the way it gives me a break from doing some of the projects that drive me nuts lol
An hour and half of Jon working on Large Marge... Great way to start the weekend!!....
Fantastic work! That engine was completely assembled when they put it in. There is no way the factory would deal with that; it makes for a service nightmare
Calm and steady you did it ,great job and a little more work to it and Large Marge will be back as she should be.
Auto strippers are really nice, especially when you are wiring up lights and outlets in a freshly built room. Saves so much time
What i see personally is Jons journey from dabbling in mechanics a little bit here and there, mostly small projects and here we are now. No task too big, nothing too complex just elbow grease and perseverance gets you a long way if you are intelligent which clearly Jon is.
I salute anyone with the persistence and patience to fight with rusty nuts and bolts like that. I've broken a lot of tools and a lot more bolts over the years just trying to force stuff to come loose and I can get mad just thinking about it now
Glad you have not given up on Marge. Hope the next repair is easier.
Hey Jon, brother, just wanted to send you a massive wave of positive energy and good vibes!! Honestly, you’re the definition of a JACK OF ALL TRADES, and it reminds me so much of my dad. He wasn’t operating on your level, but he did everything from pulling the engine out of the family car to building his own table saw from scratch! Seeing your videos feels like that same spirit but cranked up to 11. Your passion, skills, and the way you just make things happen-it’s such an inspiration, not just to me but I know to so many others too. Keep pushing that amazing content and bringing the energy, because it’s hitting all the right spots! You’re making a bigger impact than you know.
Keep crushing it, brother. 🔥
I can't believe your patience. My wife even likes watching you, she even learned what a helicopter is and how it works. Good job!
I love to watch people repairing things right… and I love buying equipment that’s been well taken care of… that said , if you ever sell any equipment.. I’m your man!