FYI...I just watched a Honda mechanic here in Melbourne, Fl. drop the rear tire and put on a new Metzler 880 for me....From the time the bike went up on the lift until he lowered the lift with the job finished was exactly 30 minutes....As you mentioned in video, he never removed any exhaust or even my saddle bags....only removed the bolts on bottom of shocks...I was extremely impressed...Then he test drove bike and gave me a thumbs up that it was ready to go... The Honda dealer back in Kalamazoo, MI. said the exhaust on one side and bags had to come off...plus they quoted 2-hours of labor...Saved over $100 dollars in labor and no appointment necessary...They cater to walk in service...come to find out they are one of the highest rated Honda dealers in the country... Regards, KY
he sure makes it look hard i pull 2 shock bolts at bottum, pull the axle bolt and the brake bracket bolt, raise the bike roll the tire out, you dont have to take all the other stuff loose pull the 4 bolts on rear diff if you need more room
The recommendation when removing the rear wheel is (I believe) to remove the final drive and inspect the splines and driveshaft. perfect opportunity to do it.
Good positive video with safety being an important objective. I always ratchet tye down my bikes to the lift just for my arse pucker safety...... Thanks for the video, you did a great job and everything that could go right went right and everything that could go wrong did not go wrong..... Thanks brother.
I wish you would have show putting the rear hub back into the swingarm. The spacer continually comes out as it's a tight fit and when I attempt to slide the brake assembly into line for the axle, the spacer pops out. Any suggestions?
It's been a long time since I did this job, but I know spacers, brake assy, can be a pain to align. Just take your time and be persistent. It might help to prop something under the tire and use that to lift rather than trying to hold spacers, lift, put the axle through, etc. Sometimes you need 3 or 4 hands.
@@busabobsgarage9876 Appreciate the response. Here's how I FINALLY got it together. I've done this at least a half dozen times, and each time has been a pain but this trick I employed with make it easier going forward. Here are the steps I used to finally get it together (with a little trick). I had the shocks and the exhaust on the disk side removed to perform the following. 1) Re-insert the axle through the drive shaft hub and the center hub (wheel). Pull the drive shaft side and center hub (wheel) together and be sure the center hub is snug in the drive shaft hub because you're going to need all the space you can get (this may require a little wiggling). 2) Put the axle through until it is just resting on the swingarm on the disk brake side 3) Here’s the VERY IMPORTANT TRICK - FILE OFF A LITTLE OF THE LEADING-EDGE LIP ON THE BOTTOM OF THE BRAKE CALIPER that’s going to slide between the spacer and swingarm. This will make it so much easier to get the caliper to slide past the spacer without dislodging it. 4) Bolt in the FRONT of the brake caliper so it should be lined up with brake pads over the disk but have the axle hole of the brake caliper above the axle hole. This will help maintain the alignment. 3) Insert the spacer and move the brake caliper down and ensure the brake pads are separated enough to slide over the disk. 4) Once I had the caliper wedged somewhat between the spacer and the swingarm, and ensured the brake pads were separated enough to go over the disk, I used a piece of 2x4 wood and a rubber mallet to gently nudge from the top of the brake caliper to slide it into place. With the leading edge of the brake caliper slightly filed down, it made it a much easier to slide between the spacer and the swingarm. The spacer stayed in place and the brake caliper went in so much easier. Hopefully this will help some poor soul that’s fought this through the years like I have. Good luck
Wow, thanks for sharing that. It makes sense that a little filing would make life easier. Each bike, no matter the brand, seems to have its own set of nuances. Thanks for helping orhers!
clearly this guy doesn't know what's he doing .. I have change the tire on a interstate over 15 time's .. there no need to pull the rear fender off ...lol.... ..
i will the next time I need to change the tire on my interstate ... no need to remove rear fender ..or back center bag ..or the side chrome bar's that go around side bags ... ... .. just remove side bags ,, pull shocks .. lower .. remove center bolt and rear brake ect ect .. jack up as high as the motorcycle jack will go .. pull tire and rim to the left . and pull out from under bike... .. less the 15 mins ....lol...
+aj c If you feel comfortable jacking a 700lb bike 3 feet in the air to clear the fender and the exhaust, I guess that's your option. I would personally prefer having it an inch off the ground and remove the rear fender. Thanks for your inputs though, good stuff.
I can tell you I have done this job and the bike is very sketch when its high enough to remove the tire with the fender on but i had 2 other people helping make sure that it didn't fall
FYI...I just watched a Honda mechanic here in Melbourne, Fl. drop the rear tire and put on a new Metzler 880 for me....From the time the bike went up on the lift until he lowered the lift with the job finished was exactly 30 minutes....As you mentioned in video, he never removed any exhaust or even my saddle bags....only removed the bolts on bottom of shocks...I was extremely impressed...Then he test drove bike and gave me a thumbs up that it was ready to go...
The Honda dealer back in Kalamazoo, MI. said the exhaust on one side and bags had to come off...plus they quoted 2-hours of labor...Saved over $100 dollars in labor and no appointment necessary...They cater to walk in service...come to find out they are one of the highest rated Honda dealers in the country...
Regards,
KY
You should have had him do a complete job on the splines. They have a tendency to fail otherwise.
@arniesantori9896 new to this bike. What is a spline, I just got my bike.
Was that M&M?
Great Video. Just did this myself. Mine took a bit more to separate off the gear though.
I'm glad that it helped you. It's been quite a few years since I put my hands on that bike.
My first time to remove the rear wheel and this video was a bunch of help. Saved me a lot of grief.
he sure makes it look hard i pull 2 shock bolts at bottum, pull the axle bolt and the brake bracket bolt, raise the bike roll the tire out, you dont have to take all the other stuff loose
pull the 4 bolts on rear diff if you need more room
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to show us how it's done👍🏻
You neglected to mention the importance of changing the three
o rings and re lubing the splines with moly paste.
The recommendation when removing the rear wheel is (I believe) to remove the final drive and inspect the splines and driveshaft. perfect opportunity to do it.
Good positive video with safety being an important objective. I always ratchet tye down my bikes to the lift just for my arse pucker safety...... Thanks for the video, you did a great job and everything that could go right went right and everything that could go wrong did not go wrong..... Thanks brother.
Like the comment it's 640lb I got one?? I've got one to how did you manage to loose 90 lb of weight
When replacing the wheel...is the spacing between the tyre and the swing arm meant to be identical ?
I wish you would have show putting the rear hub back into the swingarm. The spacer continually comes out as it's a tight fit and when I attempt to slide the brake assembly into line for the axle, the spacer pops out. Any suggestions?
It's been a long time since I did this job, but I know spacers, brake assy, can be a pain to align. Just take your time and be persistent. It might help to prop something under the tire and use that to lift rather than trying to hold spacers, lift, put the axle through, etc. Sometimes you need 3 or 4 hands.
@@busabobsgarage9876 Appreciate the response. Here's how I FINALLY got it together. I've done this at least a half dozen times, and each time has been a pain but this trick I employed with make it easier going forward. Here are the steps I used to finally get it together (with a little trick). I had the shocks and the exhaust on the disk side removed to perform the following.
1) Re-insert the axle through the drive shaft hub and the center hub (wheel). Pull the drive shaft side and center hub (wheel) together and be sure the center hub is snug in the drive shaft hub because you're going to need all the space you can get (this may require a little wiggling).
2) Put the axle through until it is just resting on the swingarm on the disk brake side
3) Here’s the VERY IMPORTANT TRICK - FILE OFF A LITTLE OF THE LEADING-EDGE LIP ON THE BOTTOM OF THE BRAKE CALIPER that’s going to slide between the spacer and swingarm. This will make it so much easier to get the caliper to slide past the spacer without dislodging it.
4) Bolt in the FRONT of the brake caliper so it should be lined up with brake pads over the disk but have the axle hole of the brake caliper above the axle hole. This will help maintain the alignment.
3) Insert the spacer and move the brake caliper down and ensure the brake pads are separated enough to slide over the disk.
4) Once I had the caliper wedged somewhat between the spacer and the swingarm, and ensured the brake pads were separated enough to go over the disk, I used a piece of 2x4 wood and a rubber mallet to gently nudge from the top of the brake caliper to slide it into place. With the leading edge of the brake caliper slightly filed down, it made it a much easier to slide between the spacer and the swingarm. The spacer stayed in place and the brake caliper went in so much easier.
Hopefully this will help some poor soul that’s fought this through the years like I have. Good luck
Wow, thanks for sharing that. It makes sense that a little filing would make life easier. Each bike, no matter the brand, seems to have its own set of nuances. Thanks for helping orhers!
nice bike
640 lbs got one
clearly this guy doesn't know what's he doing .. I have change the tire on a interstate over 15 time's .. there no need to pull the rear fender off ...lol.... ..
Well...show us how it's done
i will the next time I need to change the tire on my interstate ... no need to remove rear fender ..or back center bag ..or the side chrome bar's that go around side bags ... ... .. just remove side bags ,, pull shocks .. lower .. remove center bolt and rear brake ect ect .. jack up as high as the motorcycle jack will go .. pull tire and rim to the left . and pull out from under bike... .. less the 15 mins ....lol...
+aj c If you feel comfortable jacking a 700lb bike 3 feet in the air to clear the fender and the exhaust, I guess that's your option. I would personally prefer having it an inch off the ground and remove the rear fender. Thanks for your inputs though, good stuff.
Still awaiting your video dude, I just bought a Valkyrie Interstate. Step up!
I can tell you I have done this job and the bike is very sketch when its high enough to remove the tire with the fender on but i had 2 other people helping make sure that it didn't fall