@Brandon Weiss I have the craftsman 150psi 6gal pancake compressor and it works pretty good. I got mine for about $100 + another 20 or 30 for hoses etc. It works great for this kind of thing or airing up tires using an air blower and more light to medium duty stuff, just don’t expect to run a impact or anything large like that on it. Most grinders and cut off wheels are recommended to use on a larger compressor because of air capacity and run time but I have a cheap harbor freight angle grinder that works pretty decent on mine.
Anyone attempting to upgrade there truck past the simple cold air intake should own one of these testers. I ripped apart my ERG/ intake to be cleaned. Once put back together, my turbo whistled. This helped me track down a torn hot side boot and metal gaskets on the intake/ egr that I needed to replace/clean. Thank you
You should start making and selling this tool! I sure CANNOT afford to put one of my Techs to make these and yet I find this very useful...! I'll be the 1st buyer
From what I have read, if the pressure guage is not attached to the cap it won't be a true psi reading. I personally thought the pressure guage on the gun would be good enough ?
I removed it cleaned everything up just in case and put it back on as tight as I thought would be safe and then tested again. If it's still leaking keep tightening. Be careful not to bend anything those clamps are very strong and could bend your piping.
@@Bl00DmixedWithPoison yeah you’re right. Take all the pressure out of your tires and set them to 35 in of vacuum instead of 35 pounds of pressure and let me know how that works for you in a dynamic situation lmao.
@@jcbenson01 they're not equal in this regard. The terms boost leak and vacuum leak mean the same thing. Either the engine is in vacuum or pressurized under boost. If air is escaping, you're testing for leaks within that closed system, and therefore testing for a vacuum leak. AND a boost leak, simultaneously.
For anyone in my situation, I ended up buying a 3" O.D. section of exhaust tubing, and used a hole saw to make a cap for it and welded it up. Worked great. Though I discovered you have to vacuum test your vacuum actuator to properly diagnose function, as that ended up being my issue.
Find a pvc end cap in the diameter of your intake piping. Then drill/mount the Schrader valve to it. If the pvc is the same diameter as your cone air filter, you won't have to buy a coupler.
I'm trying to boost leak test my evo ix, but it doesn't build pressure, all the air comes out the exhaust? I've read that I need to rotate the crank manually and keep trying. Have you ever heard of this problem?
Good idea, but when are the exhaust valves could be open leaking out the air, sometimes you can't get enough pressure in the system to really see the leaks, best to put a plug right before the throttle body then test again
You could also soap water the whole thing first then crank away on a bike tire pump for bubbles 🤣 Probably wont find the really small leaks that present only under high pressure though 🤔
Doesn’t the air just go out the exhaust valves that are open if you try and pressurize the whole piping and intake manifold itself? I’d you start at the turbo inlet or turbo outlet? Where is your air source?
From the video it is obvious he connected the adapter to the intake of the turbo (which normaly connects to the air filter hose), the turbo output is usually placed bellow the intake. It shouldn't make any difference I guess, beyond that it is probably easier to connect it to the intake of the turbo rather to the output hose of the turbo. The inlet engine valves "should" be all closed when the engine is shut down, since the last compression stroke that finally stops the engine should prevent that piston from reaching it's TDC, making all other pistons somewhere "in between" their TDC and BDC positions. Based on this, there should be no place for air to go from the point of connection to the turbo, except for the leaks of course ;) I am not 100% sure about this second part though, perhaps somebody here could verify it?
@@austinsherwood7188there is a moment where both intake and exhaust valve is open at the same time, it’s when the piston is at the top dead center (not ignition time)
Thanks for the replies! So I talked to a company that manufactures a similar but more fancy version of these, and they said the valves shouldn't both be open (may depend on vehicle). They said start by removing the oil cap and going up to 5 psi, see if there are big leaks, and if so, try putting the cap on and seeing (carefully) if pressure builds up (indicating a bad pcv valve). If all is good, keep going up to 10, then 15. Nice looking units they sell at turboboostleaktesters
I wouldn't use that rubber coupling for this tester. Those are only designed for like 3-4psi and is the reason why it's swelling up when you put 10psi in it. But it's a really good way of finding boost leaks quickly and cheaply!
About to build this set up to test my Hot Rodded 12 valves RV's intercooler plumbing. It has 3" tubes but same concept. I will be also building a 2" set to test the radiator too, but will use water nozzles instead of air. Mainly because I want to flush out the radiator and engine before I get it ready to run. Funny how your video just popped up today after looking for parts to build one yesterday.....
In 2023 this set up will run about $28…. Just bought everything to do my test and I’ve spent almost $30 for all the parts.
How is your tester working out sir
My god we’ve been robbed 🫨
just bought it. was $15 lol
@evancraig11 must be in a very LCOL area then. Just spent $24, didn't even get valve stems yet and I'm only in MI.
Thanks for sharing
can I use this for a supercharger? an eaton m61 to be exact on my cobalt ss? would the coupler just go onto the throttle body??
In 2022 this set up will run you about $18, still a lot better than paying for a diagnostic. Great video!
Crazy how things have gotten so expensive!!
What is a decent air compressor on a budget.
@Brandon Weiss I have the craftsman 150psi 6gal pancake compressor and it works pretty good. I got mine for about $100 + another 20 or 30 for hoses etc.
It works great for this kind of thing or airing up tires using an air blower and more light to medium duty stuff, just don’t expect to run a impact or anything large like that on it.
Most grinders and cut off wheels are recommended to use on a larger compressor because of air capacity and run time but I have a cheap harbor freight angle grinder that works pretty decent on mine.
2023 this setup will cost you close to $30, still cheaper than buying a premade kit
@@drsnowmon These basic parts are that expensive now 🤔
Anyone attempting to upgrade there truck past the simple cold air intake should own one of these testers. I ripped apart my ERG/ intake to be cleaned. Once put back together, my turbo whistled.
This helped me track down a torn hot side boot and metal gaskets on the intake/ egr that I needed to replace/clean. Thank you
Best one I've seen on UA-cam.. love that you're using a tyre valve instead of the nitto type air connector. Cheers!!
10/10, very clear, I should try your way....10psi...Thanks
Thank you. Nice video. Think I’ll throw one together for my Evo soon.
Raanan Harrison worth it bro!
Very helpful thanks 2 leaks found everyone should try it
Glad it helped!!!
Thank you so much for making this video. It helped at lot.
Glad it helped!
You should start making and selling this tool! I sure CANNOT afford to put one of my Techs to make these and yet I find this very useful...! I'll be the 1st buyer
At 4:52
this is the "hot side". The "cold side" is after the intercooler.
How big a vaccum leak does it have to be to really be noticeable in spool time?
Any Vacuum or boost leak should be taken care of! It doesn't matter if it's small or big.
Or just start the engine and spray the soap
Thanks for this.
Gonna try this on my type r tomorrow thanks flr the tip!
From what I have read, if the pressure guage is not attached to the cap it won't be a true psi reading. I personally thought the pressure guage on the gun would be good enough ?
Pressure is pressure.
You said you had a leak on your intercooler coupler and it was super tight , I am in the same situation what did you do to stop the leak ??
I removed it cleaned everything up just in case and put it back on as tight as I thought would be safe and then tested again. If it's still leaking keep tightening. Be careful not to bend anything those clamps are very strong and could bend your piping.
It’s a pressure leak, not a vacuum leak.
A boost leak test is a vacuum test. It's the same thing.
Putting air pressure where there should be a vacuum will give you the same answer you’re looking for… where is air escaping
You just basically said its not air, its oxygen
@@Bl00DmixedWithPoison yeah you’re right. Take all the pressure out of your tires and set them to 35 in of vacuum instead of 35 pounds of pressure and let me know how that works for you in a dynamic situation lmao.
@@jcbenson01 they're not equal in this regard. The terms boost leak and vacuum leak mean the same thing. Either the engine is in vacuum or pressurized under boost. If air is escaping, you're testing for leaks within that closed system, and therefore testing for a vacuum leak. AND a boost leak, simultaneously.
Great idea, but can't find a 3" cap to fit my intake tube, I guess plumbing doesn't use that size?
Hmmm I wouldn't know :/
They got 3 inch
@@michaelbenson6775 3" inner diameter, not outer (at least at home Depot, Lowes, and Ace)
For anyone in my situation, I ended up buying a 3" O.D. section of exhaust tubing, and used a hole saw to make a cap for it and welded it up. Worked great. Though I discovered you have to vacuum test your vacuum actuator to properly diagnose function, as that ended up being my issue.
Could you list all parts in vid with sizes etc
Find a pvc end cap in the diameter of your intake piping. Then drill/mount the Schrader valve to it. If the pvc is the same diameter as your cone air filter, you won't have to buy a coupler.
Thanks
I hear the boost leak on my car more than the noise of the car ( I think some of my turbopipes popped)
I'm trying to boost leak test my evo ix, but it doesn't build pressure, all the air comes out the exhaust? I've read that I need to rotate the crank manually and keep trying. Have you ever heard of this problem?
unfortunately no.. Let me know if you find out what it was..
@@ChrisGoorbarry EGR vacuum line was off.
I see I’m not the only 4g owner with a boost leak 😂
lmaoo that's all of us haha
Good idea, but when are the exhaust valves could be open leaking out the air, sometimes you can't get enough pressure in the system to really see the leaks, best to put a plug right before the throttle body then test again
Need an Evo. Pocket don’t do the job haha, sticking to the EJ205 for the moment
this is most awesome. suds are great and simple... now i'll try to incorporate smoke and see how that works. thanks a lot....
Thank you amazing idea 👍👍
You are so welcome!
Will smoke test works
Yes it would
Bro I clicked on this shiii cuz I thought it said Chris fix 🤣🤣
2023 costed me about 40 bucks lol
If you can't buy it make it..
All of those parts only cost $8?
Not anymore bro lol I got em all in all like 35-40
Back when I made this video yes lol
How does it work for vehicles with twin turbos? Thank you in advance.
Will this work on a Subaru
Couldn't you just get a 2" cap to go directly onto the turbo? Like is the coupler even necessary?
You wouldn’t be able to tighten the cap
Costed me $35 to $40 to make. And I don’t even have a compressor to plug the inflation gun to
Gas station 50¢ air compressor. Easy
Thanks for the information. I will be making one this weekend and doing that check on my 335i.
How did it go?
Thank you sir
Couldent find the right valve stem thanks for the info!
Awesome tester build!
Thanks!
Saw another video where gentleman said it was important to remove oil cap on valve cover?
you should , because you dont want to blow out a crank/cam/ or any seal if the air builds up inside the engine.
Great job 🙌🏼!
Thank you! Cheers!
❤H
Can you send me the link? Where’s you get the parts?
Excellent video !!!! SO good !!
Can’t find that pvc fitting, any idea what it’s called?
2”PVC plug
Thank you sir for the DIY
Its gonna be 308$ for me, since I don’t have a compressor, but either way good job!
You could. Also drive to the gas station and use the air compressor there. 🤷♂️
You could also soap water the whole thing first then crank away on a bike tire pump for bubbles 🤣 Probably wont find the really small leaks that present only under high pressure though 🤔
Doesn’t the air just go out the exhaust valves that are open if you try and pressurize the whole piping and intake manifold itself? I’d you start at the turbo inlet or turbo outlet? Where is your air source?
From the video it is obvious he connected the adapter to the intake of the turbo (which normaly connects to the air filter hose), the turbo output is usually placed bellow the intake. It shouldn't make any difference I guess, beyond that it is probably easier to connect it to the intake of the turbo rather to the output hose of the turbo.
The inlet engine valves "should" be all closed when the engine is shut down, since the last compression stroke that finally stops the engine should prevent that piston from reaching it's TDC, making all other pistons somewhere "in between" their TDC and BDC positions. Based on this, there should be no place for air to go from the point of connection to the turbo, except for the leaks of course ;)
I am not 100% sure about this second part though, perhaps somebody here could verify it?
The intake valves will always be closed when the exhaust valves are open and vise versa.
@@austinsherwood7188there is a moment where both intake and exhaust valve is open at the same time, it’s when the piston is at the top dead center (not ignition time)
Thanks for the replies! So I talked to a company that manufactures a similar but more fancy version of these, and they said the valves shouldn't both be open (may depend on vehicle). They said start by removing the oil cap and going up to 5 psi, see if there are big leaks, and if so, try putting the cap on and seeing (carefully) if pressure builds up (indicating a bad pcv valve). If all is good, keep going up to 10, then 15. Nice looking units they sell at turboboostleaktesters
Where would i hook it up on a evo x?
The turbo my guy
A tyre what?
Tire Valve Stems
good info cant even find that threaded tyre valve in my country yet Ill keep looking haha
Hope you find it michael!
I wouldn't use that rubber coupling for this tester. Those are only designed for like 3-4psi and is the reason why it's swelling up when you put 10psi in it. But it's a really good way of finding boost leaks quickly and cheaply!
What brand and size is that valve cover breather?
About to build this set up to test my Hot Rodded 12 valves RV's intercooler plumbing. It has 3" tubes but same concept.
I will be also building a 2" set to test the radiator too, but will use water nozzles instead of air. Mainly because I want to flush out the radiator and engine before I get it ready to run.
Funny how your video just popped up today after looking for parts to build one yesterday.....