@Majoofi hello, My work table is actually a hollow interior slab door with two layers of thin quilt batting and one layer of muslin over that. I staple gunned the batting and the muslin to the underside of the door/table. The padding let's me iron on it. The size of it let's me lay out my fabric for cutting and drafting. I love working on this surface. I was recently thinking of adding a little more batting but the two layers are adequate.
Thank you for this information. I did have problems lining my selvages evenly. I attempted to straighten them by pulling on the bias angle and that only helped a little bit, however I think it may have been the fabric I bought (very cheap) from Walmart! lesson learned for me.
Thanks! This is an old video (embarrassing how messy the background is - real life) I was thinking of redoing this video because it is important information that you're just supposed to know - and it would be nice to learn it without all that mess in the background ;-)
That's correct you do not have to have the cut ends even with each other. The different pattern pieces you cut out need to fit completely on both the top & bottom layer of your folded fabric. It's rare that a pattern piece goes across the entire cross grain in a straight line (ruffles, tiers of a tiered skirt, a boxy skirt front or back are the only garments I can think of this happening). Even then you'll be ok if your fabric is smooth & selvages are lined up & pattern fits on both layers.
So I don't have to cut the "cut ends" to make them even? like when quilting fabric? Do I just make sure the selvages are lined up correctly? Am I understanding this right?
Yes, You can pull the fabric at a 45-degree angle from the selvedge (the bias) to help the weave relax and go back to being straight - or at least straighter. It can help a lot and you'll usually start by giving the fabric a pull in both of the opposite directions (one at a time ;-) and then find you make the biggest difference toward correcting the grain by tugging it one way over the other. Sometimes, however, the print will be printed off grain and there's no correcting that. I did write a post about pulling across the bias to straighten the fabric. Here's a link: www.thedailysew.com/2014/04/squaring-up-fabric/ I guess this fabric in the video wasn't that off so I forgot to mention that tip. Thanks for mentioning it
I watch many tutorials and no one ever mentions it in them. It is something new to the craft should know. As I have seen things being sold with the whole line of twisted seams. (I don't know if that was the.look they want but as the tops were not cheap) they looked cheaply made. Idk y I was livid about it but was. And it is such a simple cure for fabrics. Thanks.
The sewing industry assumes its customers have a certain level of background knowledge. Not sure why they do that. In fact, that was the complaint I had that made me start The Daily Sew.
so helpful. Do you have any words of wisdom if just making curtains, and lining up the non selvedge edges before cutting the material? There's a lot of material and I really do not want to do the stretching technique. Thank you.
First of all, you don't need to wash the fabric if you're never going to wash the curtains. However, if your fabric is a natural fiber you could steam it to reduce any possible shrinkage from humidity. (But check that your fabric can handle steam) To get the curtain panels to stay straight at the hem after months of hanging - in other words, not to hang too long at one point- you want to be sure to cut on the cross grain. The best way to do this is to "pull a thread". (And you can read about that here, on my blog, in detail: www.thedailysew.com/2014/04/squaring-up-fabric/) But if your fabric has a large weave to it, like a heavyweight linen, you can probably see the threads running across the fabric. Be sure when you cut across, to follow one of these threads. To be super precise pull a thread and follow that mark (again, the link above). You may need to tug on the fabric diagonally to really square it up. I wrote about it on The Daily Sew blog: www.thedailysew.com/2014/04/squaring-up-fabric/ AND, if you have extra fabric, you could start by cutting rough sizes of the panels. That makes straightening each panel a lot easier since there is less fabric to work around. (say you have a bolt of fabric but each panel is only 3 yards. You would cut off 3 yards plus 3 to 6 inches or so and then work with just that piece, trimming it, on grain, to the size you need) Hope this answered your question. Enjoy sewing your curtains.
If your fabric is Dry Clean Only don't wash it. You could hover a steam iron a few inches above it if the fabric is made from wool, cotton, raw silk or linen. The steam will shrink the fabric just a bit. However, if you plan on hand washing your coat when it's dirty then hand wash the fabric before you cut it out. If you're going to dry clean it then I'm pretty certain you could just cut it out now. You do want to get it flat though, no big creases
The cheaper fabrics are produced with cheaper thread so you're more likely to have the warp threads (lengthwise on the loom) skewed as they just don't stand up to the tension on the loom. There's really no fixing it so just pull the fabric across the bias (as you did) and steam that sucker until you can get it as straight as possible. Sometimes you can get a good deal with cheap fabric but learning a lesson is important too - I just hate the costly lessons.
You need to fold it with the wrong side out. You never cut a commercial pattern on the public side of the fabric because when you mark it you can end up with stray markings, especially if you use waxy tailor's chalk.
+Donna Huber Yes, good tip. I cut out right side up, especially on big prints, so I can see where the print lays in the pattern. I don't want to accidentally put some "target" on the breast apex. I usually mark with notches in the seam allowance or thread tacks. However, turning the fabric over, and cutting out on the wrong side, as you suggest, is perfect for marking with tracing paper and wheel. Thanks for bringing that up.
What is it about this woman that I absolutely love!?!? I could listen to her teach me all day! And God knows I need all the instruction I can get!
You're too kind. Thanks.
Thanks so much. I haven't sewn since I was about 14 and that was 50 years ago. This is so helpful.
@Majoofi hello, My work table is actually a hollow interior slab door with two layers of thin quilt batting and one layer of muslin over that. I staple gunned the batting and the muslin to the underside of the door/table. The padding let's me iron on it. The size of it let's me lay out my fabric for cutting and drafting. I love working on this surface. I was recently thinking of adding a little more batting but the two layers are adequate.
This helped so much! I have a difficult fabric that isn't laying flat and I needed advice on how to get it to lay flat. Thank you!
That fabric is gorgeous!
Thank you for this information. I did have problems lining my selvages evenly. I attempted to straighten them by pulling on the bias angle and that only helped a little bit, however I think it may have been the fabric I bought (very cheap) from Walmart! lesson learned for me.
thank you for this!!!! I am appreciate you being so explicit.
Thanks! This is an old video (embarrassing how messy the background is - real life) I was thinking of redoing this video because it is important information that you're just supposed to know - and it would be nice to learn it without all that mess in the background ;-)
That's correct you do not have to have the cut ends even with each other. The different pattern pieces you cut out need to fit completely on both the top & bottom layer of your folded fabric. It's rare that a pattern piece goes across the entire cross grain in a straight line (ruffles, tiers of a tiered skirt, a boxy skirt front or back are the only garments I can think of this happening). Even then you'll be ok if your fabric is smooth & selvages are lined up & pattern fits on both layers.
So I don't have to cut the "cut ends" to make them even? like when quilting fabric? Do I just make sure the selvages are lined up correctly? Am I understanding this right?
Thank you , you make it so/sew☺ easy..very good tips. ..please bring more...☺☺☺great .!
Thanks. Any particular sewing subject you want to see as a video?
lol!! i love the first few seconds. 😂😂❤
and thank you for all this info. i needed it. we all do. 😊
what kind of surface are you working on?
what about the stretching on the diagonal to straighten the grain line of fabrics?
Yes, You can pull the fabric at a 45-degree angle from the selvedge (the bias) to help the weave relax and go back to being straight - or at least straighter. It can help a lot and you'll usually start by giving the fabric a pull in both of the opposite directions (one at a time ;-) and then find you make the biggest difference toward correcting the grain by tugging it one way over the other.
Sometimes, however, the print will be printed off grain and there's no correcting that.
I did write a post about pulling across the bias to straighten the fabric. Here's a link: www.thedailysew.com/2014/04/squaring-up-fabric/
I guess this fabric in the video wasn't that off so I forgot to mention that tip. Thanks for mentioning it
I watch many tutorials and no one ever mentions it in them. It is something new to the craft should know. As I have seen things being sold with the whole line of twisted seams. (I don't know if that was the.look they want but as the tops were not cheap) they looked cheaply made. Idk y I was livid about it but was. And it is such a simple cure for fabrics. Thanks.
Omg thank you so much for explaining what is a nap and the differences too. I had no clue.
The sewing industry assumes its customers have a certain level of background knowledge. Not sure why they do that. In fact, that was the complaint I had that made me start The Daily Sew.
so helpful. Do you have any words of wisdom if just making curtains, and lining up the non selvedge edges before cutting the material? There's a lot of material and I really do not want to do the stretching technique. Thank you.
First of all, you don't need to wash the fabric if you're never going to wash the curtains. However, if your fabric is a natural fiber you could steam it to reduce any possible shrinkage from humidity. (But check that your fabric can handle steam) To get the curtain panels to stay straight at the hem after months of hanging - in other words, not to hang too long at one point-
you want to be sure to cut on the cross grain. The best way to do this is to "pull a thread". (And you can read about that here, on my blog, in detail: www.thedailysew.com/2014/04/squaring-up-fabric/)
But if your fabric has a large weave to it, like a heavyweight linen, you can probably see the threads running across the fabric. Be sure when you cut across, to follow one of these threads. To be super precise pull a thread and follow that mark (again, the link above).
You may need to tug on the fabric diagonally to really square it up. I wrote about it on The Daily Sew blog: www.thedailysew.com/2014/04/squaring-up-fabric/
AND, if you have extra fabric, you could start by cutting rough sizes of the panels. That makes straightening each panel a lot easier since there is less fabric to work around. (say you have a bolt of fabric but each panel is only 3 yards. You would cut off 3 yards plus 3 to 6 inches or so and then work with just that piece, trimming it, on grain, to the size you need)
Hope this answered your question. Enjoy sewing your curtains.
Thank you so much. You have been extremely helpful!
do I have to wash the fabric if it's going to be a coat? coats usually are usually dry cleaned and I just cut out a bunch of the pattern :(
If your fabric is Dry Clean Only don't wash it. You could hover a steam iron a few inches above it if the fabric is made from wool, cotton, raw silk or linen. The steam will shrink the fabric just a bit. However, if you plan on hand washing your coat when it's dirty then hand wash the fabric before you cut it out. If you're going to dry clean it then I'm pretty certain you could just cut it out now. You do want to get it flat though, no big creases
Great video! Thanks for sharing!! :)
thank you for watching ;-) This is one of my very first videos, I'm happy it's still helpful
The cheaper fabrics are produced with cheaper thread so you're more likely to have the warp threads (lengthwise on the loom) skewed as they just don't stand up to the tension on the loom. There's really no fixing it so just pull the fabric across the bias (as you did) and steam that sucker until you can get it as straight as possible. Sometimes you can get a good deal with cheap fabric but learning a lesson is important too - I just hate the costly lessons.
Thank you so much.
Great video, thanks!
You need to fold it with the wrong side out. You never cut a commercial pattern on the public side of the fabric because when you mark it you can end up with stray markings, especially if you use waxy tailor's chalk.
+Donna Huber Yes, good tip. I cut out right side up, especially on big prints, so I can see where the print lays in the pattern. I don't want to accidentally put some "target" on the breast apex. I usually mark with notches in the seam allowance or thread tacks. However, turning the fabric over, and cutting out on the wrong side, as you suggest, is perfect for marking with tracing paper and wheel. Thanks for bringing that up.