Hi Scott, I'm a carpenter that works in the suburbs of Philadelphia in the US and we do a lot of repairs like you show in this video. For the window sill we cut the sill even with the sash and sometimes deeper depending on the extent of the rot. We use Fein and Dewalt muti tools to do the cutting. We use West Systems epoxy mixed to various thicknesses to consolidate rot and for gluing new wood to existing. We use Azek that we custom mill to match the existing sill and moulding profiles. Because the Azek is cellular PVC , water and bugs won't affect it and it takes paint well as long as it isn't a dark color. We also use Boral which is a fly ash and resin board that can be painted any color. I don't know if either of these products are available in NZ. Cheers Curt
Yes...! Better and better vids...! Great New Camera. Climate and timber houses: Here in DK, we try to have No joinery outside, where water(and snow) can get in. Vertical wood have a "Cap" above it, and has to end 10 mm above horisontal, so endgrain can't "Suck". Also, no breaks in any painted surface...water will get in And it can't Get Out...! Better to have raw wood, It will get wet and dry out in the same amount of time, (if the client likes that look). Cedar, Oregon pine and oak is long lasting, but pine can be used... treated with soap and sun, it will get almost white. Special wood paint is used outside... has to be extra flexible...because of seasonal wood movement. The paint is a UV-light barrier first, next a color, lastly a rain coat... which is not absolutely needed, Boards near the ground...is a no no. Use your cement planks, or plastic. The zone right above ground has "still air", with lots of moisture. Wood does not dry out as quick here, hence rot.
First of all, great production video wise. I think you capture the spirit of carpentry and the work life perfectly. As for the window sill and the rot, being true to the architecture of this residence where it can be assumed that the window functions as normal and is still sound above the sill, then I can see you boys machining up a suitable replacement sill in no time. Either way, that window will come out as I can't imagine you coming at it with bog. For a painter you're a great chippie!
The skylight in the ‘soon to be’ building site garage is quite nice. Lots of work then for a carpenter with a lot of timber houses haha 😆 good thing! Love the video’s Scott!
Hey Scott, I had to repair a window like that here in NZ. I cut the rot out as square as possible and glued in a cedar patch. I used bog to fill but now days I would probably use a very liquid/penetrating epoxy to fill any gaps and to soak into the timber in case there was any remaining rot I missed. The epoxy resin would soak in and stabilise the wood.
Just discovered your channel and videos Scott. I’m also a builder in NZ and have had to deal with this problem a few times! I have found the best way to fix severely rotten sills like that, is to get a flashing bent up that goes straight over top of the sill. Works well in my opinion.. a few years late but better late than never!
hi scott, in the uk we use a system called repair care, its great for that kind of stuff in windows etc. we use it on listed/graded buildings when its not allowed to be replaced.
Great video as always. Your channel just keeps getting better and better. I think the problem is the type of timber these houses are made of and the fact that the house is sitting directly on the ground without anything in between the ground and the timber. Japanese for instance have been building houses and temples out of wood for thousands of years and the largest and oldest wooden structure in the world is in Japan and over 1200 years old, and in optimum condition, resisting even earthquakes and typhoons, still today . But first of all they use extremely efficient joinery, and never use any nails because it actually weakens the structure, and they use mostly cedar for the exterior, and paulownia inside and for the areas of the construction requiring the most strength, they use boxwood . But first and foremost because Japan is so rainy and so extremele humid in summer to the point that nothing dries, the wood is always laid on stone and the house never touches the ground directly, and is elevated and resting on stilts , and the stilts resting on stones. I am Icelandic so i am definitely not trying to promote Japanese carpentry here on your channel , but i lived in Japan for a while and worked with a couple of Japanese carpenters because i bought a house there and was worried about the wood rotting over the years so i talked with a few carpenters from the country and they explained to me the reason why houses made of timber in the west rot faster than the houses made in Japan in spite of the relatively dry weather in western countries. Here is a video of a Carpenter friend of mine to show what i mean by Japanese traditional wooden house. This house is over a hundred years old and entirely made of wood. ua-cam.com/video/hrfmF29HZjA/v-deo.html
Good vid, thanks. I have no idea, but based on the fact the sill looks as though it has been repaired previously, I'd feel better about replacing it. Cheers, David.
Hey Scott will we ever she Scott Brown merch !!!!! lol cool vid Wellington is the same with all those old homes we even have weatherboard named after the city i think you needed a painter on site as well with such a big contract something to think about for next time
Really enjoy your channel. As an adult apprentice I like the way you go about your work etc. It's good. Resene do a nifty quick dry primer in a bottle with a little brush that is super handy.
In Canada we gave concrete foundation and they build house on top of concrete foundation. You still get rot where timber touches earth or where water penetrates like around poorly installed windows.
Hey Scott, love your videos. I work for a contractor here in Canada and alot of the old wood cottages we work on we replace the wood trim and sills with pvc. It is perfect if it is going to be painted.
In regards to the window cill, once repaired one back in the uk that was rotten had to cut it back and scarf joint a new piece on, some can be saved depending on the damage. Great Chanel enjoy your vids 👍
With some effort you can re angle the sill with chisel if the rot is not to deep (use metal cake prong to test this or nice sharp thin nail) and additionally chop out the bottom out of the mullions and frames... and replace them with wood section and some careful epoxing, smoothing, really only works for about 2-5mm of rot anything beyond that you're really asking to replace the whole sill. really the best thing you can do first is sand the paint back, cover with tarp and let it dry for a good month, but the practicality of that is not something you have luxury of in commercial environments.
Hey Scott, I've done a fair bit of rot repair in good ol' Dunners and I reckon you could multitool the rotten sill off and replace with a dummy one. You'll have to machine one to suit the shape of the original but with that mobile workshop setup you'll be fine ;) scarf join would be good too and maybe do the join just behind where the sash meets the sill so the join is protected. Fingers crossed for the new build 😀
Forgive me, but the NZBC dictates 225mm >GL and 150mm > paving. Perhaps a 300mm wide mowing strip centered on the wall could of been a future proof + BC compliant. This would of required the whole house perimeter to be done and the gap although allows air flow is unsightly For me a conc nib wall 150 high and 100 wide + footing + remedial work to the jackstud b/plate is recommended. I think back in the day when the old houses were being built a reasonable clearance was observed. But overtime backfill like the white pebbles has contributed to the rising ground level that allows the bottom w/board to rot Love your work, kindest regards Bernard
I’m the same Scott love it when there’s a nice place to set your gear up my favourite is a carport it’s nice pulling up at the job and seeing one ! On the other hand the amount of jobs I get to where the customer hasn’t even moved the car off the drive and expects you to carry everything from the roadside 🤬
Ah, customers..... Like when I call a customer to say I am on my way to fix their oven, and I get there and they are cooking with it! Apparently I don't burn.... Or you cannot access the water heated due to a cupboard full of stuff. .... etc etc
I just had the same exact situation with 8 windows on a house and the wood was all rotted on the sills. I first set out to repair and ended up just redoing it since it was faster than trying to patch in and have a better result.
In the uk we use a 2 part resin on rotted window sills and timbers makita do a router that blows the rotted wood away down to solid timber then apply the resin
I've had lots of experience repairing old rotted wood with autobody big (we call it bondo here, two part very dense epoxy). Dig out as much of then rot as you can and fill the void with it, then sand it back and paint. You can do it in multiple steps if the holes are deep. It sticks like nobodies business to the old wood and will outlast what is left of the sill. You can also get stuff that is reinforced with fibreglass strands really large voids.
Here in the Netherlands we also use 2 compound epoxy . It acts like a filler and glue at ones if you place new parts no screws needed. Don't know if it's possible to use in New Zeeland cause of the high temp it would be a race to do big fillings. Anyway great work/video .
If the rot isnt too invasive, look into picking it out and epoxy filling, then a good primer and paint. Would kill for some hot weather, we just dealt with the "polar vortex" with temps -30 C. Enjoy it haha
hi scott wouldnt botther trying to piece the window cill 6 months later it all starts to break down again more cost effective and a lot better looking to install new window and professional job good luck hope you get the house to build regards mark liverpool england
Pull the timber windows out and replace them with Aluminium and fit timber sills and facades around them. They look great and last forever. You can get them with small multi paned glass as well so the look legit!. Im a painter so know all about rebuilding those villa windows..😂😂 Big hello from Waiheke bro!!
I’ve replaced a sill the same as that before and unfortunately the only way to do it is to take the window out. Had a joiner make up the same profile sill. It’s not too bad taking the window out, they’re only held in by the architraves and facings.
Giday Scott , try with acro props and a plate timber so not to marr the window jack the head to bear weight just a little , recipo saw nails , cut sill , remove, clean ,and replace , with new most of the work done out side, cheers from across the ditch .
In N.I we get lots of rotten timber problems due to rain normally I would remove the old wood dig it out with chiesel if needed prop up the window as areasare revealing wherever good wood is then replace the sill by wood cut to shape and size timber treatments should be done he window is resealed
Those timber windows from the early 1900's are beautiful but are a pain to retrofit. Barring a full tear out from the inside to replace the rotted thru sill, you may run into the can of worms underneath.
If the whole length of that sill is shot, then I would cut it out using a Fein and scarf a new section in. Cut the existing sill out nice and straight, and as close to the inside of the sash as you can. Making the joint as far underneath the sashes maybe your best bet, this way your new scarf joint won't be exposed to the weather
Depends on how the window is constructed but I've been able to replace sills before on wood windows. It's a lot of work and sonetimes it's just easier and about the same labor to rebuild the whole frame. All depends on window. Either way for that perfect repair that's going to last another 100 years, it's going to be some work.
Can you find PVC boards at a supplier? You can double them up with regular PVC glue and make your sill out of that. I have never had issues with expansion or warping using that method.
Its gonna be easier to just get a new window because it will cost the same in time to take that window out to replace the sill and you just be left with the same old shitty window.
Hell no.....to have matching timber joinery made to suit the era etc is way more costly. Remove the window, board with a sheet of ply for a few weeks, take to a joiner and have the sills replaced. Re fit with new facings and scribers. People who own period homes more than often want to remain that way.....
Dam right been straight hot even here in chile man! But dang free hand table saw straight into opening paint with a chisel, 😂!! Nonetheless keep it rocking scott brown.
Replace that sill with a complete length cut flush vertically in line with the weatherboard face and cut the window facing boards & frame bottoms at the sill angle. Slide new sill in and epoxy it in. Don't check & shape it like the old repair.
If you want to repair window remove sash lights and use multi tool to cut out old cill. Repair all the parts of the remaining frame that need it then replace cill. Put lights back in.
The best thing about that camera in your van is it is well known that kiwi drivers are not the best. It will help you down the road for your insurance company im sure. When we move home this year we are going to add cameras to our vehicle.
Only way to fix that window is remove it, and get it repaired. Shorter term options are digging it out, preservative and filler. Filler don't stick to most preservatives which require a couple of coats of oil based primer, then your filler will stick. Some of those two part expensive epoxy rot repair systems have some merit, but ultimately as a rule of thumb, it's only to be viewed as a temporary repair, how certain can you be you killed all the fungal invasion? Did one bog job on a silly about twenty years ago, it appears to be still lasting when I drive past. So ya don't know, but if you got the coin, replace, don't patch!
he made a video about it before. its just him and pareau. theyre both builders that do there own jobs but sometimes if the other needs a hand theyll help each other out
Have a look at ‘repair care dry flex’ It’s really good gear, I was dubious at first being a little old school with my approach to timber repair, but honestly bro this is the shit.
cool. so you set up the camera, drive away, then drive back into frame again. neat. you can only do that as there's no traffic where you are. lol. keep it up.
pretty much every carpenter I know has purposely dull chisel in their tool belt used for levering things just like that. Works will squeezing in eave sheets, wedging doors up while you screw off hinges, levering windows across. They're super useful
Hi Scott, I want to be a carpenter however I am not strong cannot carry 50 Kg item by myself, is that matter ? Someone said to me I am strong I can’t be a carpenter.
Hey Scott, just a curious question; does Pareau find/have his own jobs when you two aren't together? or is he solely contracted/works with you? thanks!
Don’t know how busy you are but I work at a secondary school and we have just had approval to get some quotes to build some ramps for someone in a wheelchair, it’s in Ponsonby, would you be interested?
could allways get some epiglass everdure and recon it with a few coats like they doo with dry rot on a boat.me i would just pull the window and put in a new sill
are any rules or there a body that will list/preserve any house fixtures and fitting or complete house or even areas that affect what you can and can not do?
Hi Scott, I'm a carpenter that works in the suburbs of Philadelphia in the US and we do a lot of repairs like you show in this video. For the window sill we cut the sill even with the sash and sometimes deeper depending on the extent of the rot. We use Fein and Dewalt muti tools to do the cutting. We use West Systems epoxy mixed to various thicknesses to consolidate rot and for gluing new wood to existing. We use Azek that we custom mill to match the existing sill and moulding profiles. Because the Azek is cellular PVC , water and bugs won't affect it and it takes paint well as long as it isn't a dark color. We also use Boral which is a fly ash and resin board that can be painted any color. I don't know if either of these products are available in NZ.
Cheers
Curt
As always love the content here in the UK!
I like these small repairs that u show. Thank u
Yes...! Better and better vids...! Great New Camera.
Climate and timber houses:
Here in DK, we try to have No joinery outside, where water(and snow) can get in.
Vertical wood have a "Cap" above it, and has to end 10 mm above horisontal, so endgrain can't "Suck".
Also, no breaks in any painted surface...water will get in And it can't Get Out...!
Better to have raw wood,
It will get wet and dry out in the same amount of time, (if the client likes that look).
Cedar, Oregon pine and oak is long lasting, but pine can be used...
treated with soap and sun, it will get almost white.
Special wood paint is used outside...
has to be extra flexible...because of seasonal wood movement.
The paint is a UV-light barrier first, next a color, lastly a rain coat...
which is not absolutely needed,
Boards near the ground...is a no no. Use your cement planks, or plastic.
The zone right above ground has "still air", with lots of moisture.
Wood does not dry out as quick here, hence rot.
Great video Scott!
I'm jealous of the heat!
The Crazy Framer love your videos man
Crazy framer you are one hell of a carpenter. You definitely do need some heat up there.
Crazy framer you are one tough sob working in the cold here in Victoria BC we have been complaining because it's been -5
Love the vids crazy framer from your videos to these videos it’s one extreme to another !
Lol I've seen the conditions you work in bro!! Love the videos. Cheers for watching
First of all, great production video wise. I think you capture the spirit of carpentry and the work life perfectly. As for the window sill and the rot, being true to the architecture of this residence where it can be assumed that the window functions as normal and is still sound above the sill, then I can see you boys machining up a suitable replacement sill in no time. Either way, that window will come out as I can't imagine you coming at it with bog. For a painter you're a great chippie!
The skylight in the ‘soon to be’ building site garage is quite nice. Lots of work then for a carpenter with a lot of timber houses haha 😆 good thing! Love the video’s Scott!
Hey Scott, I had to repair a window like that here in NZ. I cut the rot out as square as possible and glued in a cedar patch. I used bog to fill but now days I would probably use a very liquid/penetrating epoxy to fill any gaps and to soak into the timber in case there was any remaining rot I missed. The epoxy resin would soak in and stabilise the wood.
Just discovered your channel and videos Scott. I’m also a builder in NZ and have had to deal with this problem a few times! I have found the best way to fix severely rotten sills like that, is to get a flashing bent up that goes straight over top of the sill. Works well in my opinion.. a few years late but better late than never!
hi scott, in the uk we use a system called repair care, its great for that kind of stuff in windows etc. we use it on listed/graded buildings when its not allowed to be replaced.
Repair care system is brilliant stuff and splicing
Your videos are really good and thoroughly addictive. Thanks for the information.
Great video as always. Your channel just keeps getting better and better.
I think the problem is the type of timber these houses are made of and the fact that the house is sitting directly on the ground without anything in between the ground and the timber.
Japanese for instance have been building houses and temples out of wood for thousands of years and the largest and oldest wooden structure in the world is in Japan and over 1200 years old, and in optimum condition, resisting even earthquakes and typhoons, still today . But first of all they use extremely efficient joinery, and never use any nails because it actually weakens the structure, and they use mostly cedar for the exterior, and paulownia inside and for the areas of the construction requiring the most strength, they use boxwood . But first and foremost because Japan is so rainy and so extremele humid in summer to the point that nothing dries, the wood is always laid on stone and the house never touches the ground directly, and is elevated and resting on stilts , and the stilts resting on stones.
I am Icelandic so i am definitely not trying to promote Japanese carpentry here on your channel , but i lived in Japan for a while and worked with a couple of Japanese carpenters because i bought a house there and was worried about the wood rotting over the years so i talked with a few carpenters from the country and they explained to me the reason why houses made of timber in the west rot faster than the houses made in Japan in spite of the relatively dry weather in western countries.
Here is a video of a Carpenter friend of mine to show what i mean by Japanese traditional wooden house.
This house is over a hundred years old and entirely made of wood.
ua-cam.com/video/hrfmF29HZjA/v-deo.html
Super keen for the full house build, fingers crossed it goes ahead.
Genuine builder, wish we had guys like you in Sydney.
Good vid, thanks. I have no idea, but based on the fact the sill looks as though it has been repaired previously, I'd feel better about replacing it. Cheers, David.
Hi Scott, Nice work and love hearing your descriptions and terminology.
Hey Scott will we ever she Scott Brown merch !!!!! lol cool vid Wellington is the same with all those old homes we even have weatherboard named after the city i think you needed a painter on site as well with such a big contract something to think about for next time
Really enjoy your channel. As an adult apprentice I like the way you go about your work etc. It's good.
Resene do a nifty quick dry primer in a bottle with a little brush that is super handy.
In Canada we gave concrete foundation and they build house on top of concrete foundation. You still get rot where timber touches earth or where water penetrates like around poorly installed windows.
Hey Scott, love your videos. I work for a contractor here in Canada and alot of the old wood cottages we work on we replace the wood trim and sills with pvc. It is perfect if it is going to be painted.
In regards to the window cill, once repaired one back in the uk that was rotten had to cut it back and scarf joint a new piece on, some can be saved depending on the damage. Great Chanel enjoy your vids 👍
With some effort you can re angle the sill with chisel if the rot is not to deep (use metal cake prong to test this or nice sharp thin nail) and additionally chop out the bottom out of the mullions and frames... and replace them with wood section and some careful epoxing, smoothing, really only works for about 2-5mm of rot anything beyond that you're really asking to replace the whole sill.
really the best thing you can do first is sand the paint back, cover with tarp and let it dry for a good month, but the practicality of that is not something you have luxury of in commercial environments.
Awesome work Scott and I feel you on the old timber houses even up here in Whangarei the 1960 houses are starting to rot away
Hey scott, I got my first pair of blundstones because of you..So thanks
Hey Scott, I've done a fair bit of rot repair in good ol' Dunners and I reckon you could multitool the rotten sill off and replace with a dummy one. You'll have to machine one to suit the shape of the original but with that mobile workshop setup you'll be fine ;) scarf join would be good too and maybe do the join just behind where the sash meets the sill so the join is protected. Fingers crossed for the new build 😀
Bro honestly I love carpentry!!
I’m also loving the videos you put up!
Like the other posts say about digging out rot and using resin to harden the soft remains. Bunnings has Earl's wood hardener. Then bog it.
I used to live in Mount Eden back in 1998...i Had a great time...;-p
Great country too...;-)
Forgive me, but the NZBC dictates 225mm >GL and 150mm > paving.
Perhaps a 300mm wide mowing strip centered on the wall could of been a future proof + BC compliant. This would of required the whole house perimeter to be done and the gap although allows air flow is unsightly
For me a conc nib wall 150 high and 100 wide + footing + remedial work to the jackstud b/plate is recommended.
I think back in the day when the old houses were being built a reasonable clearance was observed. But overtime backfill like the white pebbles has contributed to the rising ground level that allows the bottom w/board to rot
Love your work, kindest regards Bernard
I’m the same Scott love it when there’s a nice place to set your gear up my favourite is a carport it’s nice pulling up at the job and seeing one ! On the other hand the amount of jobs I get to where the customer hasn’t even moved the car off the drive and expects you to carry everything from the roadside 🤬
Ah, customers..... Like when I call a customer to say I am on my way to fix their oven, and I get there and they are cooking with it! Apparently I don't burn....
Or you cannot access the water heated due to a cupboard full of stuff. .... etc etc
@@johnsimpson8263 like the time I turned up to floor an attic only to realise it was still full (and I mean FULL!) of junk🤦♂️
I just had the same exact situation with 8 windows on a house and the wood was all rotted on the sills. I first set out to repair and ended up just redoing it since it was faster than trying to patch in and have a better result.
In the uk we use a 2 part resin on rotted window sills and timbers makita do a router that blows the rotted wood away down to solid timber then apply the resin
I've had lots of experience repairing old rotted wood with autobody big (we call it bondo here, two part very dense epoxy). Dig out as much of then rot as you can and fill the void with it, then sand it back and paint. You can do it in multiple steps if the holes are deep. It sticks like nobodies business to the old wood and will outlast what is left of the sill. You can also get stuff that is reinforced with fibreglass strands really large voids.
Here in the Netherlands we also use 2 compound epoxy . It acts like a filler and glue at ones if you place new parts no screws needed. Don't know if it's possible to use in New Zeeland cause of the high temp it would be a race to do big fillings. Anyway great work/video .
In the UK we use pvc lol
We do window sills from painted sheet metal last for ages.
If the rot isnt too invasive, look into picking it out and epoxy filling, then a good primer and paint. Would kill for some hot weather, we just dealt with the "polar vortex" with temps -30 C. Enjoy it haha
hi scott wouldnt botther trying to piece the window cill 6 months later it all starts to break down again more cost effective and a lot better looking to install new window and professional job good luck hope you get the house to build regards mark liverpool england
Pull the timber windows out and replace them with Aluminium and fit timber sills and facades around them.
They look great and last forever.
You can get them with small multi paned glass as well so the look legit!.
Im a painter so know all about rebuilding those villa windows..😂😂 Big hello from Waiheke bro!!
I’ve replaced a sill the same as that before and unfortunately the only way to do it is to take the window out. Had a joiner make up the same profile sill. It’s not too bad taking the window out, they’re only held in by the architraves and facings.
I was wondering if someone would say this, as the rot looks pretty bad here. So you took it out and dismantled the sill then took it to joiner?
Cutting out and replacing rot is still acceptable practice here in New Zealand it really depends on clientele and budget
Agree with chris the only way to do this properly is to take the window out
I love how he's just wearing supreme for work 😂
Giday Scott , try with acro props and a plate timber so not to marr the window jack the head to bear weight just a little , recipo saw nails , cut sill , remove, clean ,and replace , with new most of the work done out side, cheers from across the ditch .
Very glad a friend told me about your channel.
Bro you need to get you one of the makita fans. I got a free one with a drill kit and it's been a god send this summer!
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 YES!! Building a house wooohhhoooo!! Can’t wait! 🙂
In N.I we get lots of rotten timber problems due to rain normally I would remove the old wood dig it out with chiesel if needed prop up the window as areasare revealing wherever good wood is then replace the sill by wood cut to shape and size timber treatments should be done he window is resealed
Tom Silva s your man when it comes to fixing windows
Only a durability issue when touching ground. In U.K. I’m finding modern paints are accelerating decay rates on these old properties
Hey bro... question! When are you going to put “Scott Brown Carpentry” on the side of your Van??
You are awesome! Wish you could do in Gisborne for my Mum’s house.
Those timber windows from the early 1900's are beautiful but are a pain to retrofit. Barring a full tear out from the inside to replace the rotted thru sill, you may run into the can of worms underneath.
If the whole length of that sill is shot, then I would cut it out using a Fein and scarf a new section in. Cut the existing sill out nice and straight, and as close to the inside of the sash as you can. Making the joint as far underneath the sashes maybe your best bet, this way your new scarf joint won't be exposed to the weather
love the Scott B t-shirt.. keep up the sweet work bro
Depends on how the window is constructed but I've been able to replace sills before on wood windows. It's a lot of work and sonetimes it's just easier and about the same labor to rebuild the whole frame. All depends on window. Either way for that perfect repair that's going to last another 100 years, it's going to be some work.
Nicely done.
Next exciting episode
Can you find PVC boards at a supplier? You can double them up with regular PVC glue and make your sill out of that. I have never had issues with expansion or warping using that method.
Thanks a million
Its gonna be easier to just get a new window because it will cost the same in time to take that window out to replace the sill and you just be left with the same old shitty window.
In a perfect world but customers ask for what they want, regardless if it is the right decision or not.
yeah but a new window wont match the house, it would hard to get another window the same second hand
I'd have to disagree with you on that
Hell no.....to have matching timber joinery made to suit the era etc is way more costly.
Remove the window, board with a sheet of ply for a few weeks, take to a joiner and have the sills replaced.
Re fit with new facings and scribers.
People who own period homes more than often want to remain that way.....
First! Love some Scott Brown Carpentry!
If the window sill isn't too bad the splice and use the repair care system. Or if it is bad then replace it.
Dam right been straight hot even here in chile man! But dang free hand table saw straight into opening paint with a chisel, 😂!! Nonetheless keep it rocking scott brown.
Replace that sill with a complete length cut flush vertically in line with the weatherboard face and cut the window facing boards & frame bottoms at the sill angle. Slide new sill in and epoxy it in. Don't check & shape it like the old repair.
If you want to repair window remove sash lights and use multi tool to cut out old cill. Repair all the parts of the remaining frame that need it then replace cill. Put lights back in.
The best thing about that camera in your van is it is well known that kiwi drivers are not the best. It will help you down the road for your insurance company im sure. When we move home this year we are going to add cameras to our vehicle.
Buen video maestro!
Another great video. Nice content.
Only way to fix that window is remove it, and get it repaired. Shorter term options are digging it out, preservative and filler. Filler don't stick to most preservatives which require a couple of coats of oil based primer, then your filler will stick. Some of those two part expensive epoxy rot repair systems have some merit, but ultimately as a rule of thumb, it's only to be viewed as a temporary repair, how certain can you be you killed all the fungal invasion?
Did one bog job on a silly about twenty years ago, it appears to be still lasting when I drive past. So ya don't know, but if you got the coin, replace, don't patch!
Hey Scott, where did you get the long drawer runners on the drawers in your van? love the content here in Ireland!!
Rory K www.fullie.co.nz
Nice work bro!
That would bug me having different make of tools lol. I have all festool but want a few Dewalt machines now.
Lol, Scott's awed that the local retailers offer products that are in demand locally. You don't say?!
Your like to dislike ratio is mad, deservedly so. Keep up the great work mate
Very informative! 😎
You gonna do a video and explain your twos work relationships you ?? Who works for who keep up the quality
he made a video about it before. its just him and pareau. theyre both builders that do there own jobs but sometimes if the other needs a hand theyll help each other out
Just wondering if you could show us more how to repair. Just for the do it yourself guys
great video once again
Have a look at ‘repair care dry flex’
It’s really good gear, I was dubious at first being a little old school with my approach to timber repair, but honestly bro this is the shit.
bro nice job summer was so hot new ones here great
Isn't britomart and new market station both underground? So technically not the first one under ground you drove past?
Replace it bro and coat it with marine epoxy. That'll keep the water off.
cool. so you set up the camera, drive away, then drive back into frame again. neat. you can only do that as there's no traffic where you are. lol. keep it up.
Scott, I reckon if a timber home gets to be 120 years old it's pretty durable :-)
Hey Scott, what make are those masks you guys use ? The Velcro ones, can't find them anywhere ?
RZ Masks piranhatools.co.nz/collections/safety
Great video’s but, it doesn’t get hot in Auckland by my standards
It’s funny how a tiny watermark logo can step up a videos production and professionalism by margins. Keep it up!
If they don’t want to replace could you not cut out as much as possible, treat what is left and then install new sections?
Do you really open the paint can with a chisel ?!?
My eyes are bleeding right now 😅
pretty much every carpenter I know has purposely dull chisel in their tool belt used for levering things just like that. Works will squeezing in eave sheets, wedging doors up while you screw off hinges, levering windows across. They're super useful
I have many dull chisels. They work good for cleaning out the gypsum that ramped up the walls.
Blunt chisel obviously
never underestimate the blunt chisel, its a damn good tool. Endless uses
I know eh, could have damaged the paint lid.
Is your phone red hot from all the calls and extra business you get now that you are famous?
Отличное видео, спасибо!!! Как всегда с удовольствием посмотрел, заслуженный лайк проставил
You should check out the LG6 Lifeguards made by Jackson. Might be a better power solution than your current breaker and multi board setup :D
Hi Scott, I want to be a carpenter however I am not strong cannot carry 50 Kg item by myself, is that matter ? Someone said to me I am strong I can’t be a carpenter.
Respect!
Ive seen people remove the rot mechanically and then using an epoxy product to repair it. it looked ok. was a 'this old house' video.
I would replace the rotten window cill and repair other rotten parts, cut back to healthy timber make some joint glue and job done :)
Da homie is back
Hey Scott, just a curious question; does Pareau find/have his own jobs when you two aren't together? or is he solely contracted/works with you? thanks!
Don’t know how busy you are but I work at a secondary school and we have just had approval to get some quotes to build some ramps for someone in a wheelchair, it’s in Ponsonby, would you be interested?
Hi, happy to have a look . Message me here scottbrowncarpentry.com/contact/
could allways get some epiglass everdure and recon it with a few coats like they doo with dry rot on a boat.me i would just pull the window and put in a new sill
Bog and paint bro :}
are any rules or there a body that will list/preserve any house fixtures and fitting or complete house or even areas that affect what you can and can not do?
short answer, yes
Check out this old house how to fix rotted wood with epoxy shows all the tools and how to use
with the window at 3:20 could the rot of occurred because of the cill drop on it?
Did you ever do a video on replacing the timber sill?