I wondered what that job would entail. I bought a used moored 1970 J in 1984, and the owner had home fiberglassed the syern as it had gotten soft. It was a sloppy job but good enough for me for two years on a large bay...as I didn't own a motor. I wouldn't have trusted it with anything more than a troller. I trailered it and always kept it dry. I trailer parked it at a brokerage after I bought a SJ21 for two years and it got softer...since nobody bought it (hey free dry storage) I thought about rebuilding the transom but I was going to sell it for $900...so I bought a GetRot kit from the broker's chandlery for $30....drilled holes and filled the whole thing with get rot (basically thin fiberglass resin)...then coated it with matte and repainted. I felt better selling it that way...which I did about 2 months later to a lady that lived on the bayfront and wanted a pier runner. A couple years later I passed her on the bay. She was still very happy with it. Good looking job. Excellent finished product. Boat looks better without that aqua two tone they had till the mod 70s. Did the seat gap get filled with a stack of coosa board cutouts?
I did cut several coosa inserts to support the cut out pieces and used thickened epoxy in a caulk tube to glue everything back in to place. This was not a cheap repair by the time I replaced the rub rail and painted the boat. It does get compliments at the boat launch and I don’t have to wax or fuss about the finish since going to polyurethane boat paint. If you’re ever considering doing it on a different project boat the repairs turned out great and I think it was worth the effort.
![This 30-Foot SAILBOAT is a STAR! A PRISTINE S&S designed 1972 Yankee 30 for $12,000! TOUR! [[SOLD!]]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7WUu659Arxc/mqdefault.jpg)
![This 30-Foot SAILBOAT is a STAR! A PRISTINE S&S designed 1972 Yankee 30 for $12,000! TOUR! [[SOLD!]]](/img/tr.png)
I wondered what that job would entail. I bought a used moored 1970 J in 1984, and the owner had home fiberglassed the syern as it had gotten soft.
It was a sloppy job but good enough for me for two years on a large bay...as I didn't own a motor. I wouldn't have trusted it with anything more than a troller. I trailered it and always kept it dry.
I trailer parked it at a brokerage after I bought a SJ21 for two years and it got softer...since nobody bought it (hey free dry storage)
I thought about rebuilding the transom but I was going to sell it for $900...so I bought a GetRot kit from the broker's chandlery for $30....drilled holes and filled the whole thing with get rot (basically thin fiberglass resin)...then coated it with matte and repainted.
I felt better selling it that way...which I did about 2 months later to a lady that lived on the bayfront and wanted a pier runner.
A couple years later I passed her on the bay. She was still very happy with it.
Good looking job. Excellent finished product. Boat looks better without that aqua two tone they had till the mod 70s.
Did the seat gap get filled with a stack of coosa board cutouts?
I did cut several coosa inserts to support the cut out pieces and used thickened epoxy in a caulk tube to glue everything back in to place. This was not a cheap repair by the time I replaced the rub rail and painted the boat. It does get compliments at the boat launch and I don’t have to wax or fuss about the finish since going to polyurethane boat paint. If you’re ever considering doing it on a different project boat the repairs turned out great and I think it was worth the effort.