'76 Marshall Superlead Mk II | Ripping Out the Ugly & Putting In the Pretty
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- This felt GOOD.
Don't miss the previous videos on this amp:
• '76 Marshall Superlead...
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It's not often you see internet amp techs go into such great detail about soldering techniques and cleaning stuff up like you do, but this stuff is absolutely vital to getting really great tone and having a reliable and long lived amp. Great work Lyle and thank you so much for sharing your valuable years of experience. 👍😀🖖
Fantastic series. I’m enthralled by the amount of work and depth of knowledge. Talk about a rebuild.
As a guy that has dabled with amp building and a healthy appreciation for vintage marshall amps... this amp makes my want to cry. Poor thing. Hanging on your every word, just subscribed.
Some people watch Bob Ross painting to relax or enlighten their minds....
I watch Psionic Audio work on amplifiers...
I win.
Very nice work on that board. I love how clean your work is regarding layout and soldering. I used to own one of these amps back in the late 90s/early 00s. I had to sell it to cap the money needed to move my young family to another state in 05, unfortunately. I loved that amp, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. Now I have tube amps out the brown, but not that amp. Arg :(
Has anyone EVER heard someone without a story about "the one that got away"? 😥
Great job..Super cool solder joints on that board..Looks like they all 'grew ' there..Nice info etc..Ed..uk..😀
Your boards are goddamn artwork.
Been looking forward to this one! Time to put the kettle on.
and yet noone has mentioned your excellent singing voice!!!
Yeah, well, being a one man Carol Burnette tribute band doesn't exactly have the phone ringing off the hook...
;)
Lyle, this is really looking impressive. The owner is going to be thrilled. :)
Oh hell no Lyle! If that was my amp, everything on that chassis would be stripped off and cleaned and polished. But I know it's for a customer. I must be an amp nerd. I'm binge watching this 13 part series. Lol🤣
Beautiful work!
"I'm dating myself..." I dated myself once, never got to first base...
Great work, great standards!!
9:34 cracked me up. Now that was funny.
Love your vids,I only have tube amplifiers. 61 bassman, 71 Bandmaster and a 81 2204 jmp.
Thanks for more good stuff. I was wondering if maybe in a future video you could address the implementation of standby switches in guitar amps. Coming from the hi-fi world, I cannot recall a tube hi-fi power amp that had a standby switch. I do own a tube preamp that has a mute switch, but I'm not sure that it operates the same as a standby switch does in a guitar amp. In a previous video, you made the comment that diode-rectified circuits can benefit from the implementation of a standby switch. Overall, it seems that the reasons given for having standby switches in guitar amps vary from maker to maker (starting with Leo Fender, who according to legend decided on its use by his misinterpretation of info in the RCA Tube Manual). I'm hoping that you could maybe in a future episode discuss their use (and overall usefulness) and why one would be desirable in a circuit.
I've done one in a planned series. Haven't done another one yet.
Anyway, this addresses a lot of standby questions.
ua-cam.com/video/HthA-N_uaEU/v-deo.html
@@PsionicAudio Thanks for that, I hadn't seen that video as I'm a recent subscriber to your channel. Very much the info I wanted, as I own a blackface Bassman which was recently put back into service. I just finished working on a 1968 Gretsch 6159 Dual Bass which is similar to a Bassman in its tube implementation and also diode rectified, which got me wondering about this topic even more. I don't think I have anything to worry about as I replaced the original filter caps with beefier 500V F&T caps, and I'm not sure that I want to remove the chassis again (lots of work!) to measure the voltage as there are no issues with the original Carling switch or any popping noises upon transitioning from standby to on.
At 9:19, if my ancient memory serves correctly, that was Carol Burnett's closing song.
Hey, the 409 does work good. Get an old (or new) toothbrush and clean the chassis with that - it takes the gunk off better without damaging anything (except the toothbrush!). Then wipe it off with the paper towel. You can get around things easier too than trying to get fingers in there - saves your hands too.
That's what I would do too.
409 gives me a headache, so I use regular old blue windex and a toothbrush.
Not to long ago, if someone told me I would be watching a man clean a amp chaise on my phone. I’d try to have them see a doctor about their delusions.
Definitely a Zero to Hero project. I'd like to be the proud owner of such a restored amp. Maybe someday.
I haven’t seen those Vishay axial film caps before. Well, not in their non OEM outer wrap. I use the Cera-Mite ceramic caps too, can’t beat’em.
I stupidly sold a '74 for cheap that was mint, just to chase skirt overseas.... was totally worth it
I bet the butcher /tech used the worn part of the chassis to cut the wires they used, with a serrated steak knife or maybe a wood chisel!
Also for crud removal Goo Gone or other limonene based cleaners are GREAT!
With the original Dagnall output transformer this JMP should sound killer with the new hand wired board...
Little tip for the rubber grommet insertion. Spray some silicone lube all over it before. It also conditions the rubber as well. 3 in 1 make a good one...and it ALSO smells good. lol
Silicone a very bad idea. You would be surprised where it ends up and it coats the wire strands and makes bad connections. It is pretty much impossible to completely remove it from the copper surface
@@archiedentone5950 The spray barely leaves a film...I can see if you're talking about silicone grease, but the aerosol sprayed and worked into the grommets (before installing them of course) shouldn't be an issue. If someone is really THAT concerned, all you'd have to do is, after fishing the wires through, clip off the tip of the wire before stripping and soldering.
Hi nice project, nice capacitors selection with the 1813 ero (vishay) as marshall use in the hw reissue, I made an attemp using the vishay (brown, orange) ceramic capacitors for the bypass caps and noise suppresion caps on the phase inverter in a Soldano clone amps, was really dissapointed in the result. They have weirds overtones in the high frequencies. Much prefer the blue dipped ceramic capacitors or brown single layer one (ex illinois capacitors). Thanks for sharing the video!
There are a lot of different Vishay brown/orange pF caps. Some sound awful. These don't. ;)
I also like blue Murata MLDs.
It cracks me up that Marshall touts these expensive "hand wired" reissue amps... but then they still use the same crappy transformers you'll find on a production JVM, etc. 🤣
Have you considered using nut-serts to take up the old holes whilst providing super-solid threads for new machine screws?
Amen on Marshall and grounding. They have always been poor at best
Beatiful job!!!! I have a 72 superlead that has a high frequency oscillation that causes the tubes to redplate when cranked. The only tech near me installed a zobel network. And yea sounds horrible. Have you ran across this before with an old marshall.
Thanks!
Many times. The culprit is usually one/more of the following:
Bad filter cap/caps
Bad/dirty grounds
Poor lead dress
Can be just a microphonic preamp tube though most know to check for that first.
Lyle: "I'd wear WD-40 as cologne but I'm afraid I'd only attract other amp techs."
Fazio Electric: Am I a joke to you?
I don't discuss other techs on UA-cam very often, but let me say this about Fazio:
It's kind of gross how much of the comments she gets are about her appearance.
A) it is disrespectful of all the time and study she has put into doing something she loves.
B) It's pathetic, guys. You just sound sad.
@@PsionicAudio She's a good tech learning more every day. I like the way she presents things, and she's a pleasant change from the usual fare, like yourself. I've been watching everyone else like Uncle Doug, D-Lab, Guitologist, Mr. Carlson, etc., for so long and it's nice to find some "fresh blood" for change.
does it matter what speaker jack you use with one cab?
Wire question,,,, do you ever use aircraft grade wires! It's stranded but full lenth tinned then covered with like 700 degree sheating . It behaves like solid core as to bending and staying where you put it? Just curious.
A lot actually. Mostly for heaters.
I find it weird that you're concerned with whether or not your chassis cleaning regimen is abrasive, but then you're willing to drill new holes in it. I get that you still have to make it work, but if the chassis is that sacred, why not just expand the holes in the new choke's mounting bracket instead of expanding the holes on the chassis?
One is to prevent rust. The other is pure functionality/reliability. Very different concerns.
@@PsionicAudio Cleaning steel with an abrasive will induce rust? Oh, it's probably zinc-coated steel, isn't it? I didn't think about that. Still seems like it would make more sense to expand the holes on the thing you have fewer concerns about. Maybe there's not enough space to work with on those feet?
Carbon composite vs Carbon film? what? why? Also curious about 1/2 watt vs 1 watt resistors.
Only 1/2W carbon films and 2W metal films in this. Some 3W MFs in the power supply. Noise bad.
Did you just give away your secret for Fender-like solder joints at 29:47?
No, the eyelets in Fenders are much larger and take a different technique. ;)
Really enjoyed this video. Quick question about attaching the wires under the board. In the last builds I've done I drilled holes so I could connect them to the turret on the top of the board....I was scared that if I soldered them to the bottom that any soldering done to the top of the turret would cause the solder on the bottom to come loose. It looks like that is not an issue....is that correct? I'm assuming it depends on how well your soldering technique is.
Thanks!
In this amp all the wires to/from the board pass through holes in the board and then partially wrap around the turrets. It's the most reliable method, though if you use good solder and plan in strain relief you can just attach to the bottom of the turret. It can be "good enough" but it's not ideal.
What gauge are all the blue and yellow wires 32:30? What lengths? approx? Why turret board?
22AWG top coat. The length needed. I don't know what those lengths were now months later. Turret board because you don't need a backing board to keep solder from dripping out of an eyelet. And it's pretty.
Purdy board.
nice work, but you have a slightly circuitous workflow. I would take that amp apart completely, clean everything and then reassemble again. and please do yourself a favour, and use all new tube-sockets, saves a lot of trouble. ;o)
Those look like old McMurdo sockets. They are built to last and I'd be sure they will last as long as any modern replacement if they are in good condition.
@@chrisdee5032 maybe, maybe not. they look very rough, even if you clean them with deoxit and a pipe cleaner/brush or something like it, they can cause problems. I use belton sockets, and they don't cost a fortune, the amp is not much original anymore, so why not change them?
forgot to mention the input- and speaker-jacks there are decent replacements from Cliff, you could still use the original plastic nut to keep the "vintage" look, but you have a new jack, that has not plugged by a guitar cable a million times...
Watch the whole series on this particular amp to find out why he works the way he does on vintage amplifiers
would you recommend using WD-40 on transformer bell covers and/or laminations?
Yes. It's designed to clean metals.
Where did you order parts from???
Mouser, Digikey, and CE Distribution for the most part.
With a chassis that nasty have you ever tried wet sanding it with the WD40?
I've done that with some real terrible condition rusted chassis but this one doesn't need that level of help.
But yes, very fine grade wet/dry with WD40 can do wonders
Sure is pretty..
That amp had to at minimum sound different every day
Panicked Aussie? What happened? Run out of beer?
Soak your new grommets in hot water for a minute before you install them.
Good idea, but not with a steel chassis. Hair dryer maybe.
Sheer stubbornness works too. ;)
@@PsionicAudio Instead of the flat blade screwdriver, try one of those plastic panel remover tools. They can work pretty well if you can find a small one.
Ode de WD40 - hopefully you'll only attract female amp techs. LoL.
I like your videos, but you destroyed that amp. It had so much potential.
Did you see the earlier videos on this amp? I was several years too late to destroy it
PS this thing will sound amazing very soon. I know what I'm doing.
@@PsionicAudio I can't wait to hear it then