Now we just wait to see what turns up! Is the board red, are the LEDs as expected, are the components the right size, after all Julian is still learning the intricacies of the ordering process.
This is a really good thing. I sat and thought about this yesterday and ended up only ordering PCB. But the notice of extended part was a bit small (but I guess most people has extended stuff anyway).
UART signals are HIGH when idle. So if you connect RX/TX LED's to GND, they would be inverted. Proven by the UART board I made that has LED's constantly on ;)
@0m50s: A normal fast diode across the rails is not unknown, to provide some reverse voltage protection. So it's not necessarily a zener diode. But you never know... :-)
Also another thing to watch out for is that some components have a minimum order quantity so if you just use 1 part you might get charged for more than 1 component - sometimes it's worth trying to minimise the number of parts if you're on a tighter budget.
I doubt that would be the case for online pick and place parts dispensing, though of course there's the minimum five board requirement that they have...
@@Clark-Mills I think it was on extended parts and maybe when I didn't do a full batch of 5 assembled (they used to do 5 boards with only 2 assembled as an option, good for prototypes) - I guess when they have to switch reels they might have a minimum number. (I do my own assembly now so rarely use the service beyond getting boards anymore)
On one of my boards I had not given it a LCSC part # and on the SMT page at JLCPCB it had given me multiple options for basic parts there, you can assign them outside of easyEDA if you want to.
What difference does it make exactly? I’d put decoupling cap close to the thing as possible. So at 18:01 the bottom left cap: I’d move it up closer to USB pin with a single track (USB pin to decoupling cap, then decoupling cap to chip).
@@davadoff It adds series inductance to the cap, which lowers the resonance frequency, reducing the cap's effectiveness. Decoupling caps should always hang directly off the power line they are decoupling.
Julian: I'm fine with you guys saying "al-yoo-min-eee-um." I can even abide things like "in hospital," lift, boot and bonnet. But as a Californian that knows a bit of Spanish, I simply MUST formally complain about "cho-ritz-oh." Oh, just one more thing... I'm just giving you a hard time and this is mainly to help with channel engagement.
Thx Julian, great video ... although I bet there is some sort of appellation contrôlée for spicy sausage and they will give you grief 😀 Keep up the great work 👍
I'm wondering why you chose the ch340G as compared with the ch340C. Possibly I'm missing something? The ch340C is virtually identical and is almost exactly the same price, but it has a built in oscillator. Would have made for a simpler board.
@@ivand8393 Absolutely correct. LCSC prices (Canadian), based on 100+ : ch340G C$0.4576 ch340C C$0.4779 So yah, you'd save 2 cents with the 'g', (while adding the cost of the oscillator, complexity etc.) Not a huge issue, but I'd go with the 'c', (in fact I did this with my own boards.)
@@ivand8393 Another valid point. But surely this is a per/order charge (the cost to have a tech change reels.) How many boards are we talking about? 1? 10? 100+? I suppose if, like Julian, you're having 3 boards populated, then this cost becomes significant. On the other hand, he's already paying close to $30 for his order (including shipping), so what's another $3? But, if someone is doing a serious project with 100+ boards, then once again ... we're talking pennies per board. So ... I'll stick with my original suggestion.
Julian, what would be your view on a little 5 watt solar project I am building ? 5 watt solar charger (outputs 5.2 volts from its own buck boost converter (outputs up to 900 ma in direct sunlight. connected through a schottky Dioe then to a 500f supercapacitor bank. then outouts to a usb lead. my plan is for the super capacitors to act like a large buffer for sun blocked by clouds for a few minutes NOT a battery. The way its wired (usb plugs), can be connected to any USB plug based solar panel what do you think ?
That crystal does not have load capacitors built in but comes in 2 versions, 10 and 20pf, JLCPCB do not specify which one that they stock :( How did you arrive at 22pf for the capacitors ? The capacitor values are calculated by 2*(load capacitance - a few pf (3 to 5) for stray capacitance). 10pf load giving 16pf actual caps and 20pf load giving 36pf actual caps.
CH340 did not work well on my bench... too many blown units (after accidental TxD shorts to 5V?) and too many garbled Rx due to missing pullup resistors on some devices. CP2102 seems to work better for me, at least when i am probing around unknown devices.
While that's true, as you said it will work. These USB to serial converters use full speed USB which works at a maximum of 12MBit/s. Meaning that signal integrity or reflections or anything else won't be a problem and you can circumvent the rules^^
Love it sponsored by JLCPCB with ad placement by PCBWay.
🤣🤣🤣
and midway "chinapcbone"
Did you miss that your red LED was an extended part so you got charged $3 part fee? ;o
C72044 Red LED, You're right! Good spotting. thanks!
I did miss that, yes.
@@JulianIlett I wonder why red is an extended part but green was basic part. I would've thought red would've been the more common of the two!
Thanks Julian, I was curious about a couple of aspects of the JLC assembly and part selection which this answered.
Oh cool :)
Julian, Thanks for showing us your Spanish sausage. Very informative.
"Juliano chorizo" as spanish speaker I wheezed very hard
Juliano Ladron jajajajaja
I laughed in Spanish at Chorizo v1.0, jejejeje.
@@Sal--- Saludos departe de Mexico amigo y si eso mismo pensaba yo.
Now we just wait to see what turns up! Is the board red, are the LEDs as expected, are the components the right size, after all Julian is still learning the intricacies of the ordering process.
red does make it run faster
@@km5405 Also, needs some racing stripes, for extra speed.
This is a really good thing.
I sat and thought about this yesterday and ended up only ordering PCB.
But the notice of extended part was a bit small (but I guess most people has extended stuff anyway).
Useful vid, and great you kept the etching down !...cheers.
I was greatful he kept his mug off the screen:-)
UART signals are HIGH when idle. So if you connect RX/TX LED's to GND, they would be inverted. Proven by the UART board I made that has LED's constantly on ;)
@0m50s: A normal fast diode across the rails is not unknown, to provide some reverse voltage protection. So it's not necessarily a zener diode. But you never know... :-)
Also another thing to watch out for is that some components have a minimum order quantity so if you just use 1 part you might get charged for more than 1 component - sometimes it's worth trying to minimise the number of parts if you're on a tighter budget.
I doubt that would be the case for online pick and place parts dispensing, though of course there's the minimum five board requirement that they have...
@@Clark-Mills I think it was on extended parts and maybe when I didn't do a full batch of 5 assembled (they used to do 5 boards with only 2 assembled as an option, good for prototypes) - I guess when they have to switch reels they might have a minimum number. (I do my own assembly now so rarely use the service beyond getting boards anymore)
On one of my boards I had not given it a LCSC part # and on the SMT page at JLCPCB it had given me multiple options for basic parts there, you can assign them outside of easyEDA if you want to.
Pwm5 working fine ❤️.
That diode is probably there to keep the target 5V from feeding back to the host. The 3.3V output is generated by the Ch340G, so it doesn't need one.
One problem for you. Never put a decoupler on a spur of track. That cap at top left should have those two tracks connecting to it separately.
What difference does it make exactly?
I’d put decoupling cap close to the thing as possible. So at 18:01 the bottom left cap: I’d move it up closer to USB pin with a single track (USB pin to decoupling cap, then decoupling cap to chip).
@@davadoff It adds series inductance to the cap, which lowers the resonance frequency, reducing the cap's effectiveness. Decoupling caps should always hang directly off the power line they are decoupling.
@@donepearce cheers.
Yeah I’d hang it directly off the power line but I couldn’t explain why it should be that way.
Julian: I'm fine with you guys saying "al-yoo-min-eee-um." I can even abide things like "in hospital," lift, boot and bonnet. But as a Californian that knows a bit of Spanish, I simply MUST formally complain about "cho-ritz-oh." Oh, just one more thing... I'm just giving you a hard time and this is mainly to help with channel engagement.
I'd have had more complaints if I'd pronounced chorizo properly. My Spanish friend says it's OK to mispronounce the odd word or two.
Next thing they'll be complaining about the British pronounceyation of "impretza"! 😆
I suggest Julian's sausage as we've left the hegemony.
Thx Julian, great video ... although I bet there is some sort of appellation contrôlée for spicy sausage and they will give you grief 😀
Keep up the great work 👍
I'm wondering why you chose the ch340G as compared with the ch340C. Possibly I'm missing something? The ch340C is virtually identical and is almost exactly the same price, but it has a built in oscillator. Would have made for a simpler board.
the "C" is an extended part (means more expensive)
@@ivand8393 Absolutely correct. LCSC prices (Canadian), based on 100+ :
ch340G C$0.4576
ch340C C$0.4779
So yah, you'd save 2 cents with the 'g', (while adding the cost of the oscillator, complexity etc.)
Not a huge issue, but I'd go with the 'c', (in fact I did this with my own boards.)
@@UA-camBorkedMyOldHandle_why it is about + 3 USD additional fee for each extended component
@@ivand8393 Another valid point. But surely this is a per/order charge (the cost to have a tech change reels.) How many boards are we talking about? 1? 10? 100+? I suppose if, like Julian, you're having 3 boards populated, then this cost becomes significant. On the other hand, he's already paying close to $30 for his order (including shipping), so what's another $3? But, if someone is doing a serious project with 100+ boards, then once again ... we're talking pennies per board. So ... I'll stick with my original suggestion.
One of the LEDs was an extended part !!!!
Did you ever make a video when these arrived?
Julian, what would be your view on a little 5 watt solar project I am building ?
5 watt solar charger (outputs 5.2 volts from its own buck boost converter (outputs up to 900 ma in direct sunlight.
connected through a schottky Dioe then to a 500f supercapacitor bank. then outouts to a usb lead.
my plan is for the super capacitors to act like a large buffer for sun blocked by clouds for a few minutes NOT a battery.
The way its wired (usb plugs), can be connected to any USB plug based solar panel
what do you think ?
One of your led's was an extended part.
Yes, the red one I think.
I totally missed that.
What does extended mean in this context? I haven't heard it used before
That crystal does not have load capacitors built in but comes in 2 versions, 10 and 20pf, JLCPCB do not specify which one that they stock :(
How did you arrive at 22pf for the capacitors ? The capacitor values are calculated by 2*(load capacitance - a few pf (3 to 5) for stray capacitance). 10pf load giving 16pf actual caps and 20pf load giving 36pf actual caps.
Hmm did I like it or not lets see if it works, but I was expecting the tower single PCB but I guess you are stuck in modular mode at the moment:-)
I've been told that having traces coming in on 2 sides of an SMD component can cause 'tombstoning'.
CH340 did not work well on my bench... too many blown units (after accidental TxD shorts to 5V?) and too many garbled Rx due to missing pullup resistors on some devices. CP2102 seems to work better for me, at least when i am probing around unknown devices.
I've already started working on a cp2102 version
No, load capacitors are not built in, you should be using 12 - 15pF though.
USB should be routed as a 90ohm differential pair with equal length traces and an unbroken plane bellow, it’ll probably work, but just saying.
While that's true, as you said it will work. These USB to serial converters use full speed USB which works at a maximum of 12MBit/s. Meaning that signal integrity or reflections or anything else won't be a problem and you can circumvent the rules^^
The title sounds extremely funny in Spanish
As a educational video, it's great but making 5 pcb's for 20 bucks when you can buy it off the shelf for 70cents a piece is non starter, really.
MiniUSB should be banned - who uses that? 😄 Hope you didn't confuse it with MicroUSB