Alexander Dyer offers up a bit simpler solution but along the same line. He puts a smaller pulley on the servo end and can basically get single stitch speeds out of a Juki1541 or any servo based machine. Both of your options are about the same price. Great work.
@@luisfilgomes Alexander Dyer's channel. Search for the video How to Slow Your Industrial Sewing Machine Even More with Smaller Pulley for your Servo Motor
I just picked up my Juki 1541s and was disappointed when I couldn’t get thru 2 pieces of 4-5oz veg tan leather. I think this might be the way to go, but I also think I need to upgrade my servo motor, currently has a SewQuiet 5000.
Having a bigger wheel like that will magnify the effect of any misalignment between the motor pulley and the head pulley. Have you noticed any effects from this over the past couple years? Has the wobble that you mentioned in another comment gotten any worse?
Thanks for the video. I like that ratio, can you share the pulley size on the motor so I can get that same ratio? Also wondering how your liking the mod a year later.
Dangerous open spokes! Cover those up with some sheet plastic or metal. Glue it on so there are no fastener heads to catch fingers or fabric on. The original hand wheel is smooth for this reason. The safety rules do not apply for personal use, but for an employee, the open spoke pulley would violate OSHA 1910.211
I've been thinking about this for a while for my Juki 563. Having tried the 45mm pulley on the servo I was going to go with a 6" but have now just ordered the 10". I agree about the pulley weight and momentum. The 563 has a 1/2" shaft so will have to tube it up. Two questions: Is the Fenner a two allen setscrew fastener, and having lost the 'hand' part of the wheel can you comfortably grab the pulley itself?
The 10' Fenner has a keyway and a single Allen set screw. And it's totally comfortable to just grab the wheel with your hand. It spins slow enough that I don't feel it's dangerous either.
@@tannerhoward13 My Juki has two set screws so I think it'll be easy to tap a second setscrew. Hopefully there won't be a problem with belt alignment. Good news about the hand grip!
I've just completed the process! I machined a spacer tube between my Juki LU-563's 1/2" shaft and the 5/8". Without using the keyway, the single set set screw was enough (with a hole drilled through the spacer tube) into the v-groove (not the flat) on the Juki's shaft. I needed to elongate the belt slot an inch, slide the servo to the right as far as it could go, and relocate the bobbin winder, which then came into contact with the pulley rim. My 3" winder wheel has a central groove so a trip to Princess Auto for a 3" O-ring and I am in business. With the servo's potentiometer turned off (full power?) It can crawl along and even its fastest full-pedal speed is not scary. This mod even allows for swapping smaller Fenner pulley wheels and/or reinstalling the larger servo pulley. Running the machine with a piece of sandpaper against the pulley takes the edge off and is more comfortable to grip. Thanks again.
Thanks for doing this! I have 2 DNU 1541s and have wanted to do this a long time! Can you link the belt you purchased? And tips on the boring? 11/16" bit you said?
I don't have a link to the belt. I just walked into Autozone and told them the length of V belt I needed and they found me one. And yes 11/16. I don't really have any tips on the boring. I was fortunate enough to have access to a milling machine which made boring it extra easy but a drill press will suffice. Just clamp in down extremely well.
Was there a trick to getting the larger 43/64” bit to drill dead centre of the smaller .76” hole using a drill press? Or does the 43/64” bit just naturally sink into place if you have it reasonably centered by eye? I’m thinking about doing this on my MSK-1541s, but I’m a bit concerned about drilling it a tad off centre and having an ever so slight wobble.
I drilled mine out on a milling machine, but was not overly precise in centering the drill bit. I believe it will center itself quite naturally and wouldn't be worried about. Mine has slight wobble(not sure why) but it hasn't caused a single problem after 50+ hours of use. I would recommend sizing up to an 11/16" bit. 43/64 was so tight i basically had to press fit it on. Not sure if I'll ever be able to get it off haha
@@tannerhoward13 I ordered the exact pulley and just drilled it out on a regular drill press with the 11/16 bit. And I just used some plumbers strapping to brace it down flat on a piece of wood. Worked like a charm! No wobble at all. Thanks so much for the great tips!
There is a speed knob on the motor, but you can only decrease it so much and you lose torque the slower you put it. The only way to maintain/increase torque and decrease the speed a meaningful amount is to do a wheel ratio reduction
This actually does help. Ive been hand stitching only for so long. The only reason i havnt used a machine is the precision is less controlled.
Great idea and affordable solution . I prefer having a NP motor setup and it wont mount with this setup .
Alexander Dyer offers up a bit simpler solution but along the same line. He puts a smaller pulley on the servo end and can basically get single stitch speeds out of a Juki1541 or any servo based machine. Both of your options are about the same price. Great work.
Where can I get more information on this?
@@luisfilgomes Alexander Dyer's channel. Search for the video
How to Slow Your Industrial Sewing Machine Even More with Smaller Pulley for your Servo Motor
I went with a 40mm servo pulley on a new Consew 1206 and that alone was pretty slow, but may go with a larger hand wheel later, thanks for the info.
I just picked up my Juki 1541s and was disappointed when I couldn’t get thru 2 pieces of 4-5oz veg tan leather. I think this might be the way to go, but I also think I need to upgrade my servo motor, currently has a SewQuiet 5000.
Having a bigger wheel like that will magnify the effect of any misalignment between the motor pulley and the head pulley. Have you noticed any effects from this over the past couple years? Has the wobble that you mentioned in another comment gotten any worse?
Thanks for the video. I like that ratio, can you share the pulley size on the motor so I can get that same ratio? Also wondering how your liking the mod a year later.
The pulley on the motor is about 2.5" . I'm loving it after a year. No problems and I still think it's the ideal ratio.
I would liked to have seen the speed before the mod. Great tip. Is this a good machine for a beginner trying to learn? Thanks
Dangerous open spokes! Cover those up with some sheet plastic or metal. Glue it on so there are no fastener heads to catch fingers or fabric on. The original hand wheel is smooth for this reason. The safety rules do not apply for personal use, but for an employee, the open spoke pulley would violate OSHA 1910.211
Wat about the bobbin filler
The original belt is a “M” V belt. 3/8”. Is the belt on the new pulley the same or did you go up to a 1/2” belt?
I've been thinking about this for a while for my Juki 563. Having tried the 45mm pulley on the servo I was going to go with a 6" but have now just ordered the 10". I agree about the pulley weight and momentum. The 563 has a 1/2" shaft so will have to tube it up. Two questions: Is the Fenner a two allen setscrew fastener, and having lost the 'hand' part of the wheel can you comfortably grab the pulley itself?
The 10' Fenner has a keyway and a single Allen set screw. And it's totally comfortable to just grab the wheel with your hand. It spins slow enough that I don't feel it's dangerous either.
@@tannerhoward13 My Juki has two set screws so I think it'll be easy to tap a second setscrew. Hopefully there won't be a problem with belt alignment. Good news about the hand grip!
I've just completed the process! I machined a spacer tube between my Juki LU-563's 1/2" shaft and the 5/8". Without using the keyway, the single set set screw was enough (with a hole drilled through the spacer tube) into the v-groove (not the flat) on the Juki's shaft. I needed to elongate the belt slot an inch, slide the servo to the right as far as it could go, and relocate the bobbin winder, which then came into contact with the pulley rim. My 3" winder wheel has a central groove so a trip to Princess Auto for a 3" O-ring and I am in business. With the servo's potentiometer turned off (full power?) It can crawl along and even its fastest full-pedal speed is not scary. This mod even allows for swapping smaller Fenner pulley wheels and/or reinstalling the larger servo pulley. Running the machine with a piece of sandpaper against the pulley takes the edge off and is more comfortable to grip. Thanks again.
Thanks for doing this! I have 2 DNU 1541s and have wanted to do this a long time!
Can you link the belt you purchased?
And tips on the boring? 11/16" bit you said?
I don't have a link to the belt. I just walked into Autozone and told them the length of V belt I needed and they found me one. And yes 11/16. I don't really have any tips on the boring. I was fortunate enough to have access to a milling machine which made boring it extra easy but a drill press will suffice. Just clamp in down extremely well.
Great video...is belt size 50" inner or outer length ?
I believe that is the outer length
@@tannerhoward13 thanks!
Great! But...what size is the new pulley?
10.25" as stated👍🏼
I believe he's said it is 10 inches
Was there a trick to getting the larger 43/64” bit to drill dead centre of the smaller .76” hole using a drill press?
Or does the 43/64” bit just naturally sink into place if you have it reasonably centered by eye?
I’m thinking about doing this on my MSK-1541s, but I’m a bit concerned about drilling it a tad off centre and having an ever so slight wobble.
I drilled mine out on a milling machine, but was not overly precise in centering the drill bit. I believe it will center itself quite naturally and wouldn't be worried about. Mine has slight wobble(not sure why) but it hasn't caused a single problem after 50+ hours of use. I would recommend sizing up to an 11/16" bit. 43/64 was so tight i basically had to press fit it on. Not sure if I'll ever be able to get it off haha
Perfect. Good to know. Thanks!
@@tannerhoward13 I ordered the exact pulley and just drilled it out on a regular drill press with the 11/16 bit. And I just used some plumbers strapping to brace it down flat on a piece of wood. Worked like a charm! No wobble at all.
Thanks so much for the great tips!
you could have changed the pully on the motor that would have made it much easier
Unless that pulley was already tiny. As is the case with my Yamata.
How do you like this machine? I'm looking at picking one up for making tactical gear.
I like it a lot! I've used it quite a bit and haven't had a single problem. Uber smooth and very strong. No brainer.
@@tannerhoward13 where did you get it from? Sewing gold seems to be a good place with good customer service and how to videos
@@shtf45acp yeah that's where I got mine. No complaints
@@tannerhoward13 are you running the juki servo motor or the reliable servo motor they offer?
Isn't there a screw on the motor to manually reduce speed
There is a speed knob on the motor, but you can only decrease it so much and you lose torque the slower you put it. The only way to maintain/increase torque and decrease the speed a meaningful amount is to do a wheel ratio reduction
@@tannerhoward3817 good to know. Thanks. It looks pretty cool
Neh too much trouble I’ll just pay the money.