Thanks for sharing this. I’ve just took the gear box head off my brush cutter and the shaft seems stuck in there as well. I was under the impression that the shafts just pushed into the gearbox assembly?
Simple, waffle free, to the point and clear, well done and thank you. CV grease is my go to for anything non specific, particularly on motorcycles, I wonder if any of the big suppliers like SimplyBearings might stock the seal and seal spool.
Does it have to be for CV joints? How is that different from "Lithium Grease" which is what I usually see for sale at my local store, which is usually yellow/tan and not black like CV grease? Just curious. EDIT: Also thank you for making the video it was an eye-opener to me. Would have loved to see you splitting it open but knowing you can put it all back together again with bearings off e-Bay is very reassuring. Perhaps you could even switch over to ceramic bearings to see how they hold up, for a season.
There is a lot on pressure on small surface areas within that box. CV grease is a heavy duty lithium grease (normally if you buy the quality stuff). I would not run standard lithium grease as it also tends to fling. You get away with a lot more with standard bearings, money, ease of fitting and less accurate build/machining.
Spec is a GLCI #2 lithium base grease. The common red tinted grease is great for the purpose. CV joint grease is sometimes #1, and almost always has a bunch of additives. It's probably fine to use, but you'll be happier to not have it spread everywhere. No, the color has no meaning in the standards, but the grease marketing has settled on 'red means a high quality high temperature grease that we can price a bit higher'. GLCI #2 is only a thickness spec, not a composition spec. #2 is stiff enough to stay in place at room temperature, but not be waxy.
Hi Gwen I just used ebay for the branded bearings, just took number/code off bearing. For the genuine honda parts i just went to a local agricultural/garden machine seller, worked out cheaper than the internet. Not a diy home gardener shop but professional place. 👍good luck....
The bearings are a 'thermal fit'. Use heat to expand the aluminum case. Start with a modest amount, 100C-150C case temperature, but you may need to get to the point where the grease smokes slightly. A heat gun should be sufficient.
Thanks for sharing this. I’ve just took the gear box head off my brush cutter and the shaft seems stuck in there as well. I was under the impression that the shafts just pushed into the gearbox assembly?
Not all of them, some are circlips others are held in by the bearing of the opposing shaft.
The annoyance in your voice is epic broski
I just get a bit peed' off with how we are robbed as consumers, good to hear from you fella.....
Great Video, Thanks. Could you confirm if the bearings you specified were for the Honda 435 UMK or 425 UMK?
Hi, sorry i dont have the cutter anymore to check, but at a guess i would say it was the 425. 👍
Simple, waffle free, to the point and clear, well done and thank you. CV grease is my go to for anything non specific, particularly on motorcycles, I wonder if any of the big suppliers like SimplyBearings might stock the seal and seal spool.
Never used simplybearings I will give them a look, Cheers !
Does it have to be for CV joints? How is that different from "Lithium Grease" which is what I usually see for sale at my local store, which is usually yellow/tan and not black like CV grease? Just curious.
EDIT: Also thank you for making the video it was an eye-opener to me. Would have loved to see you splitting it open but knowing you can put it all back together again with bearings off e-Bay is very reassuring. Perhaps you could even switch over to ceramic bearings to see how they hold up, for a season.
There is a lot on pressure on small surface areas within that box. CV grease is a heavy duty lithium grease (normally if you buy the quality stuff). I would not run standard lithium grease as it also tends to fling. You get away with a lot more with standard bearings, money, ease of fitting and less accurate build/machining.
Spec is a GLCI #2 lithium base grease. The common red tinted grease is great for the purpose.
CV joint grease is sometimes #1, and almost always has a bunch of additives. It's probably fine to use, but you'll be happier to not have it spread everywhere.
No, the color has no meaning in the standards, but the grease marketing has settled on 'red means a high quality high temperature grease that we can price a bit higher'. GLCI #2 is only a thickness spec, not a composition spec. #2 is stiff enough to stay in place at room temperature, but not be waxy.
Thank you so much! Have you a webside to buy the pieces please ? Gwen from France ! 🙂
Hi Gwen
I just used ebay for the branded bearings, just took number/code off bearing. For the genuine honda parts i just went to a local agricultural/garden machine seller, worked out cheaper than the internet. Not a diy home gardener shop but professional place. 👍good luck....
What is the use of pulling it apart if you can’t find where to buy the gears from??
Who said i needed to change the gears?
Where did you buy the gears from??
I didn't, the bearings had gone as stated
Does not tell us where to buy the bevel gears. I’ve searched high and low and cannot find six tooth splined bevel gears anywhere!!!!
Im not your sales advisor.
Would have been helpful to show how exactly you pulled it apart.
The bearings are a 'thermal fit'. Use heat to expand the aluminum case. Start with a modest amount, 100C-150C case temperature, but you may need to get to the point where the grease smokes slightly. A heat gun should be sufficient.