Great start at troubleshooting. Helpful, but missed an important option when troubleshooting. Like in the video, I connected the hi-speed wire to the door switch and the fan came on, so I ruled out the motor and did all sorts of other troubleshooting. BUT, I should have done the same routine with the mid-speed (blue wire) and lo-speed (red) wire. I later did this and learned that the motor was bad even though the hi-speed worked. By trying each of the three speeds, you can definitely rule in or out a bad motor.
I replaced mine with three hamster wheels in case one gets tired. Works great but only one speed which is a little slow so next week I'm switching their food to Meth Mix to see if we can kick it up a notch. UPDATE: Meth Mix definitely did the trick for about a week but then they starved to death because their teeth fell out.
What about if you have power to your blower but it blows weak intermittently. When I restart the power to the air handler it comes back on at full force for about 5 minutes or so then back to slow speed
Just wanted to give a big "Thank You" for this video. The unit on this video was the same exact one I have. The blower fan on my unit was not working but the outside fan was working and the condenser and tubes outside were build up with ice since the fan inside the house was not blowing any air. I changed the capacitor for the blower fan inside the furnance, but still not working. I was not sure how to verify if the control board was bad and this video with such clear and great direction was what I needed. I followed your instructions and the fan started running. I then ordered a new control board and replaced it. I took my time pulling one wire out from the old board and installing it on the new board. Did this one by one for the invidivual connections. I tested the "FAN ON" mode from the theromostat and it worked!! That was a relief and the AC worked fine without any ice build up outside. (I actually had a call into the AC Repair man but canceled the appointment after watching this video and diagnosing the issue). Thank you again for this great video!
Thanks so much! My air guy was out twice and couldn't figure out why the outside low pressure tube was frozen. Refrigerant was OK. Finally decided it might be the blower motor or capacitor but after seeing your video I remembered that when the blower tried to run, the sound was not metal to metal like a bearing but more like a bad light switch crackle. I switched out the board and it worked just fine. (I keep a spare board on hand because I have two units and they both have needed new boards, usually on a weekend or after the supply house is closed, and always on the hottest or coldest day of the year!) Saved me money and TIME!
Thank you so much. I am a happy camper and I might add now a warm one now. I know nothing about furnaces or motors and my husband has been diagnosed with dementia. I thought that I'd get a little information before I made the service call. I had taken the panel off for some reason last spring maybe to see if it needed cleaning and probably didn't put it back on properly. I had no idea what a kill switch was until I saw your video so I went down and tried the kill switch and it started up. I was very careful to put the panel back properly and lock it in. You just saved me a ton of money. I would have been crying to have paid that much money to learn about the kill switch and the motor not running if it wasn't put on properly.
PeanutButterMan thank you so much! My husband came home from night shift on a extremely frigid -40 day and found the house was really cold I was in bed still so didn’t notice. We went downstairs to check the filter and clean the flame sense rod, put it back together and we had flame but the fan wouldn’t kick in. We tried a few other things couldn’t get it. Called the plumber for a service call because hubby who is an electrician needed sleep so he could work safely at the mine tonight rather than to take apart the squirrel cage to test the motor himself. I’m fairly handy myself so when he went to bed I searched the for trane xe80 motor problems and found your post. I went down and switched the wires to see if the fan worked(it did yay). I put the wires back the way they were and saw an issue with a connector after I fixed it the furnace started working again. Thanks for making this video and helping to save me some money for an unneeded service call!
glad to help.. if I had mine to do over I would just re-solder also instead of replacing the whole control board.. but either way much cheaper than a service call.. thanks for reply..
Thanks for the video. I have a Trane xv90 w variable-speed blower. I never could get the fan to come on by switching wires, but my setup is diff. Rather than the lead going from the kill switch to the control board, it heads off toward the control module, I guess (there is a solid metal panel blocking my view). So to me, it seems the kill switch sends power to the module first, then to the control board, maybe? Anyway, I pulled the control panel and sure enough...some oxidized joints on a couple relays. So if you had done your own soldering, would you have de-soldered first? Thanks. Signed sweltering in Charleston.
About to venture into a similar journey. Same symptoms. Hopefully I won't have to spend the whole day in the attic! Thanks to your video, I have an idea of I'll be dealing with.
Thanks PeanutButterMan! Great vid. Nice to see other "non-HVAC guys" sharing what they've learned by careful experimentation and using simple logic and common sense. My blower motor was growling at startup so I pulled the whole thing and found that it didn't have any oiling ports. Saw another vid that showed how to split the motor to lube it. After reinstalling I got a hum on startup but blower didn't start. Replaced the cap and still have the same problem. Now that you've shown me how to replace the circuit board w/CFR (cooling fan relay) on it, that will be my next step. Can't thank you enough!
@@tongo117 Just a quick follow up: Powered the blower motor Med & Hi (that's all it has) and they worked fine. Still get the hum on start up but I can spin the fan to get it started. I definitely thought the new capacitor would do it. Must be the CFR on the board. Found a new replacement on Amazon for $100. Got my fingers crossed!🤞 Great fun though (if it finally works)!🍺
Well are we having fun yet? Replaced the board with NEW OE replacement. Fairly easy straight forward job. Unfortunately, didn't do the trick. Still acts like a bad Cap, I get the hum but only starts if I spin the blower by hand. I wonder what the defect rate is on replacement capacitors? I guess I'll try another one, different brand.
Mhaaa man! I think you did a better job of working on the unit and explaining than a A/C guy would! Thank you very easy explanation and helpful information! Straight to the point with accuracy! And just for that you've got yourself a new subscriber 🎉
I had the same thing, but before you spend any money on a circuit board that blackened solder joint to the relay can be cleaned and re soldered. They dry out and then arc as the connection breaks. I scraped the joint clean on mine, and a bit of flux and solder and it runs good again
OPDlab I did exactly the same. I tested the motor (thanks PeanutButterMan!), it was OK. Next step I checked the board. In the original video you can see that relay contact is all black and disconnected from the board as a result of a shortage. I had the same problem. I did clean the relay contact sticking through the board as well as the board, then just used flux and a little bit more solder to connect relay contact back to the board. I even didn't disconnect a single wire, just switched off the power, released the board by squeezing the holders with the needle-nose pliers, turned the board around and finished everything like that. Then returned board back and switched the power on. Bingo! The unit is back to business. Thank you very much both PeanutButterMan and OPDlab!
Really appreciate your video. Used your bypass method to test the blower motor and it ran right away. Went ahead and replaced the capacitor, and now hear a buzzing, but no fan spin. Just ran to Trane for the control board(mine did not appear to be burned like yours) but it is the next logical step. Will install this weekend and update. Worst case scenario, will have a tech come look at it if this doesn't work-but will not have to pay the upcharge for the parts already installed;-). Thanks again
Great video. Just what I was looking for. Both the black and blue wire for me wouldnt turn the fan. If I gave the fan a little spin to get it started, it ran fine. But from a standstill the fan wouldnt start. Going to have to replace the motor I guess.
@@lopchong7768 yes once I changed the motor, it was fixed. It was a good learning lesson on all the parts of the furnace. I feel much more comfortable working on the electrical parts at least.
good job, working on finding the problem with mine, I dont have a circuit board, just a board called a time delay but I think it does the same function. I replaced a bad capacitor, 5 bucks it was definitly bad, but there is a second problem where the fan will not come on, replacing the capacitor got it to come on for an hour or so then the fan shut off.
I did the same thing. The fan started and ran, with different speeds. But then it will stop a few hours later ... even with a new capacitor. When it stopped, I reached in and touched the motor, it was hot. So I concluded the fan bearings are going bad. As the fan runs, it generated too much heat that the air flow could not cool it down, thus the fan would stop. I'll replace the motor with a new one with ball bearings in a few days. Hopefully this will fix my problem.
thanks so much, I worried about that I screwed up the furnace when I installed the humidifier, then I noticed the door was opening, the savty switch stuff
OK, I see the problem, when I opened mine up I didn't see a squirrel so I guess mine ran away. I trapped one outside that was stealing bird seed from the feeder, popped it into the cage and it runs really well now.
I noticed your control board is discolored I have same problem no blower every thing works but blower wont come on and Sometimes it works sometimes it wont run a some times only raise temp a little then blower kicks out any help on my trane heat pump
Fantastic video, coil was frozen and furnace worked, would of spent more time than i needed trouble shooting the fan without this video. went straight to the board after watching this video and flipped it over without unplugging a thing and the damn thing failed in the same solder spot as the rest of you. will pick up a new board tomorrow and have it fixed in 5 minutes when i get home from work.
Are you in So California? I wish YOU could come and fix our AC! I am just watching videos so I am not completely stupid when the AC guy comes to fix it.
PBM, I replaced the circuit board but now it still doesn't run. I hear a relay click and the small fan starts for a moment but then stops. It'll keep clicking if I hold the door switch pressed. The motor ran fine when hot wired. Now that the board has been replaced...any suggestions? Thanks, Ron
The old board had a big white (ballast?) resistor across the power strip. I put it on the new board the same but figure the new board may likely have this resistor built-in the board now? I tried without the resistor too but no difference.
What did you end up finding out? I'm about ready to order a new board, but wondering if there is something holding out the fan relay on the board from coming on, like a limit switch. I'm going to do more research and troubleshooting the next few days. Good thing we're at the start of fall, in between cooling and heating seasons for the moment
Thank you very good. I connected 120V to the fan like you did. I hear a humming sound. But not sure if the blower is running or not. Any recommendation will help
If your motor is working you should hear more (louder) than a humming sound.. And you can feel air being drawn into the blower housing (squirrel cage).. You could also check your vents.. If air is coming out of the vents as it normally would then your blower motor is working.. If not, the problem may be that the blower motor itself is faulty and needs to be replaced..
Same issue here, fan relay is burnt on the back of the board. The relay would click when switched on at the thermostat but no fan. This issue came up after swapping out my thermostat (ecobee 3) with an identical model, just one version newer. I doubt it, but does anyone know if a faulty thermostat could blow the fan relay? I am hesitant to try that thermostat again after replacing a $250 control board. This could also just be a coincidence, odd timing?
I can't believe that worked. fan cranked right up. looked on the back of the control board but only saw some caramel colored stains like you have as well but no harsh burning. what would you have checked if you didn't find that obviously burned relay?
If you haven't checked/replaced the capacitor (cheap and easy) I would do that next.. ua-cam.com/video/kdFIARakavk/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/ozOhWeIk_Hs/v-deo.html
+PeanutButterMan Hey Thanks! that was the first thing I replaced. it was bulged a little at the top. It didn't solve the problem but best to replace anyways. it turned out just to be a dirty flame sensor. I almost bought a new control board!
I was able to get my blower running using this trick, is there a way to get the outside AC to kick on as well? Only my air handler runs now with this process.
Any way you get power to the hi speed fan lead should work to tell you if motor is good/bad.. I'm not sure if those kill switches are standard on all units but I had one, so I used it.. Whatever method you use, just be sure power is off while making connections then back on to test motor..
What symptoms did you have? My unit did absolutely nothing when called whether on a/c or heat or if the fan was turned to on. I discovered the 5 amp fuse was blown and replaced it and now i get a slight humming sound when a/c is called.
The only symptom I had was that the interior fan motor did not run.. When a/c was turned on at thermostat my exterior unit (fan/condenser) both worked.. When switched to heat interior gas burner lit off as it should but no interior fan in either case.. No air through vents.. I had no tripped breakers or blown fuses and no humming sound.. Just a non-working interior fan motor.. Which as you see in the video turned out to be a fried fan relay on the control board..
So, I totally wish I had followed your advice to start with...but no, I replaced the motor and capacitor and still only got the same humming sound. I watched your video again, tried it....and the fan spun right up. *SIGH*, well, I did learn to replace a motor, capacitor and clean the blower wheel and housing. Grrr, how could I not take a blown fuse as a big hint that it could be a control board problem? LMAO. Thanks so much for your video. Off to buy a circuit board. Please speak up if you think there's anything else I should be looking for.
My blower can start but shut off couple of minutes later, I touch the motor it's super hot, believe it's overheating shut off. It's wore out and even I add oil to it's bearing, not work, have to replace a new motor.
So I did the bypass and my fan came on! Unfortunately the circuit board looks fine. There are no loose or burned out connections. Any ideas on what else it could be now that I know it’s not the fan?
My first thought would be the capacitor.. That's covered in this video along with the problem I had with the control board/fan relay: ua-cam.com/video/T5j4Q8Zp_qk/v-deo.html
PeanutButterMan Thanks for the quick reply! So get this, before I got your response the blower started working. I had ordered a capacitor earlier when I watched your video, which will be here in two days. Would this thing work with a faulty capacitor?
PeanutButterMan I put a bead of solder on the joint where the solder weld broke. I was able to get it up and running until I got the new board in. It gets real hot where we are at. Thanks for the help.
So i used the kill switch to check my fan and the fan works. If my fans works, does that mean my circuit board can potentially be burned out? Haven’t checked the back yet but I was just trying to make sense because I was little confused if I still needed to check the back of my circuit board if the fan show it was working ?
What did it turn out to be? I've got the same issue, and I'm pretty sure it's the board, the blower motor will run fine when powered up by an extension cord.
That blinking light is a onboard diagnostic light. I knew you had fixed it and it was working with fast blink indicating system normal has a call for heat. Did it occur to you to look at those of other trouble code lights listed on the panel lid where you found the controller information. Like the solid continuous light indicating change controller. Just curious the indicator was present before you did all this, or was the light otherwise indicating normal operation with the burnt out board? Please let me know. Btw, I loved your fan blower test. Great method. Very inventive and practical.
I didn't know that was a diagnostic light so no, I didn't consider trouble codes.. Initially I was just trying to figure out a way to bypass the control board and run power directly to the motor.. When the motor ran with direct power I looked deeper and saw the burnt solder on the back of the board.. Then saw board replacement info on the back of the panel.. I'm certainly no HVAC tech and just got lucky that the problem was so obvious.. The burnt solder.. Knowing that light is diagnostic may help me in the future.. Thanks for that info..
Does anyone have a picture the wires or where I can find like a diagram or something . I totally forgot to t ale pictures and now I don’t know where the wires go
noticed Blower Fan not working last night and I can smell something burned, like burnt plastic or something....could that be an indication of fried board / relay on the board? or "Most" likely it's the Blower Fan Motor?
if you had a major meltdown on the board I would think you may get a burnt plastic smell.. in my case with only one fried joint on my board there was no smell at all.. gotta check it all, board, capacitor, motor, and wiring.. shorted wire would likely give off burnt plastic smell..
@@tongo117 I got my problem fixed same day today. The tech came back with the fan, genuine carrier fan, and then installed and tested works everything fine. Also tested my heat as well, just in case when the merciless winter comes. Now I finally remember how ac feels
I did exactly what you showed and it the fan works! I checked the back of the board and didn't see any damage (no fried spots). I do not show any fault codes, in fact the red LED light doesn't come on at all. Could it be the board? Or transformer? I'm thinking about ordering both today.
Could be the capacitor which gives a kick start to motor.. I point capacitor out at 1:12.. If you do replace the capacitor watch a video on that before you do.. There may be a stored elec charge which you need to discharge to avoid being shocked.. Or you may have the same problem I had but with no obvious sign (fried spot).. Even a hairline crack in solder can cause problems.. There's a comment below from someone that fixed their problem by re-soldering the joint that goes to the fan relay..
You can ohm out transformers. Check power and also check wires. Sometimes you can even ohm out the control board and wires for continuity. Some transformers also have a fuse built in to reset. It does sound like a bad transformer. I would figure out why did it go bad. UA-cam why do transformers go bad. This will also help you out. Whenever I replace a part I ask why did it go bad. A thermostat shorting out because it was placed on a metal wall got me. Replaced a transformer and a week later had to go back.I didn't ask why did it fail.
With this repair, no humming.. With a repair I made about a week ago, yes, there was humming.. bad capacitor.. Here's the video: ua-cam.com/video/ul3RiDNn6io/v-deo.html
I have an old samsung ac. It is a non inverter mini split. It's got a indoor fan motor error. I am really pissed off because the fan spins but it spins way too fast. The fan speed button does nothing. The ac just beeps when i pressed it. So idk if it's the pcb plz help. Thanks
I'm not an AC guy and I doubt this refers to the model you have but if your error code is E154 the link below may help.. Your "electronic fan speed control computer" may have failed.. www.justanswer.com/hvac/5dff3-samsung-mini-split-aqv12v-unit-displays-e154.html
Great video. My 1990's Lennox AC which has no door switch will not blow air. I attached black blower wire directly to incoming black wire power source (only for a few seconds ) and not changing anything else. Fan still dont blow air. I see no capacitor and if there is one is must be behind a metal panel making it hard to get to. Did I splice it in wrong ? Thanks to anybody for help.
@@tongo117 Thank you and i really appreciate the response. Learned that you must disconnect all other motor speed wires from the control board else motor can be damaged. Also - even if no start, the motor may be good since the capacitor may be bad. Yep, the capacitor was behind the metal panel and was really not that hard to get to. There were only two screw on the bottom of the panel and you need to be careful not to stretch or damage wires or control board.
I re-routed the power that was going to the control board to test the motor.. If left like that the control board would not have power and the fan would run constantly and never shut off..
You lodt me at the capaciyor man. Theres an easy way to check a cap and its well worth $10 to me everytime rather than throwing money at the problem with a prayer
PeanutButterMan I bring that up in case the wires have previously been lnstalled differently and the incoming line is on the other side. As long as you trace the wire that goes to the board, you should be okay. When I ohmed my door switch, I am not sure whether I paid any attention to which side I put the wires back on. Like I said, as long as you trace the wire that goes to the board, you should okay. Interesting video. I had thought of this. I wonder if the inverter fan motor could be checked the same way since the pressure switch has to be activated in normal operation in order for the inverter fan motor to work.
If fuse was blown fan would not work at all but replacing fuse is cheap so you can try that and see.. I would think more likely it would be the fan motor relay on the control board.. Not an hvac tech so that's just a guess.. First check (which I'm sure you've done already) would be to make sure the fan switch at thermostat is set to "auto" and not "on" which would make the fan run continuously..
My blower can run but shut offs after a couple of minutes then, it comes on after 6 min, run for a minute then it shut off again, and repeat the same, any ideas, I check the capacitor, motor, they seem to work, please help
I don't know from experience but this link suggests bad capacitor or bad motor bearings which can cause the motor overheat and shut off.. Then cool and start up.. And repeat this on/off cycle as it heats/cools.. hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?1780591-AC-inside-blower-motor-keeps-turning-on-and-off
I’d check the voltage coming from the board on black wire . If you have sub 120 volts your board likely has a bad relay . If you have 0 volts verify your low voltage control is sending 24 volts from the thermostat. If all these checks show correct voltage use a meter to check the uf of the capacitor + 6% or -6% of the capacitor rating is acceptable . If the cap and voltage checks out ohm the the two brown wires going to capacitor (remove and discharge cap before testing in any way ) you should have between 25-50 ohms of resistance on the start winding(brown wires) if not it’s a bad start winding . Check all speed phases to ground using ohms , or look for locked up bearings . Mine had a bad relay on the pcb causing it to get low voltage and for it to trip over thermal . The over thermal is wire in on the common wire so and checks involving common need to be done after motor cools . I check my motor using the method in the video . Great vid thanks for the shared knowledge
Inducers work differently, if it is a 2 wire you can disconnect put your meter on the black lead and white lead. If power is present then you have a bad motor if does not start. Some people will actually blow into the pressure switch to prove draft and get everything else to turn on. This is dangerous.This can cause flame roll out. Recommended always to get a professional. If you dont order the OEM to get the identical motor and plug and play.
I replaced the board, after coming to the conclusion that it wasn't sending power to the inducer relay, I bought a new one, and it turned out mine too had burned out in the back right where one of the relays is soldered
@Bob Boon Agreed, same goes for blower motors. Inducers can have capacitors but most do not . Ecm or high efficiency motors are the wave of the future with 2 stage capabilities.
yep... replacing the whole board like i did was likely overkill.. if i had to do it over again i would first just re-solder the fried joint and if that didn't work replace the relay like you did..
Same board used in video: www.ebay.com/itm/WHITE-RODGERS-50A55-3797-HSI-CONTROL-SAME-AS-TRANE-CNT02789-CNT02891-CNT03799/121751130673?epid=5011378565&hash=item1c58eed231:g:hj8AAOSw7NNUCbph
Great start at troubleshooting. Helpful, but missed an important option when troubleshooting. Like in the video, I connected the hi-speed wire to the door switch and the fan came on, so I ruled out the motor and did all sorts of other troubleshooting. BUT, I should have done the same routine with the mid-speed (blue wire) and lo-speed (red) wire. I later did this and learned that the motor was bad even though the hi-speed worked. By trying each of the three speeds, you can definitely rule in or out a bad motor.
Good point.. I'll add your suggestion to the video description.. Thanks for reply..
I replaced mine with three hamster wheels in case one gets tired. Works great but only one speed which is a little slow so next week I'm switching their food to Meth Mix to see if we can kick it up a notch.
UPDATE: Meth Mix definitely did the trick for about a week but then they starved to death because their teeth fell out.
What about if you have power to your blower but it blows weak intermittently. When I restart the power to the air handler it comes back on at full force for about 5 minutes or so then back to slow speed
Just wanted to give a big "Thank You" for this video. The unit on this video was the same exact one I have. The blower fan on my unit was not working but the outside fan was working and the condenser and tubes outside were build up with ice since the fan inside the house was not blowing any air. I changed the capacitor for the blower fan inside the furnance, but still not working. I was not sure how to verify if the control board was bad and this video with such clear and great direction was what I needed. I followed your instructions and the fan started running. I then ordered a new control board and replaced it. I took my time pulling one wire out from the old board and installing it on the new board. Did this one by one for the invidivual connections. I tested the "FAN ON" mode from the theromostat and it worked!! That was a relief and the AC worked fine without any ice build up outside. (I actually had a call into the AC Repair man but canceled the appointment after watching this video and diagnosing the issue). Thank you again for this great video!
You are welcome.. Glad to have helped..
Thanks so much! My air guy was out twice and couldn't figure out why the outside low pressure tube was frozen. Refrigerant was OK. Finally decided it might be the blower motor or capacitor but after seeing your video I remembered that when the blower tried to run, the sound was not metal to metal like a bearing but more like a bad light switch crackle. I switched out the board and it worked just fine. (I keep a spare board on hand because I have two units and they both have needed new boards, usually on a weekend or after the supply house is closed, and always on the hottest or coldest day of the year!) Saved me money and TIME!
glad to help.. thanks for reply..
Thank you so much. I am a happy camper and I might add now a warm one now. I know nothing about furnaces or motors and my husband has been diagnosed with dementia. I thought that I'd get a little information before I made the service call. I had taken the panel off for some reason last spring maybe to see if it needed cleaning and probably didn't put it back on properly. I had no idea what a kill switch was until I saw your video so I went down and tried the kill switch and it started up. I was very careful to put the panel back properly and lock it in. You just saved me a ton of money. I would have been crying to have paid that much money to learn about the kill switch and the motor not running if it wasn't put on properly.
good job!! glad to help.. thanks for reply..
My pleasure, thanks again.
You completely saved me on this. Being able to test the fan led me in the same direction. Thank you for your knowledge.
Glad to help.. Thanks for reply..
PeanutButterMan thank you so much! My husband came home from night shift on a extremely frigid -40 day and found the house was really cold I was in bed still so didn’t notice. We went downstairs to check the filter and clean the flame sense rod, put it back together and we had flame but the fan wouldn’t kick in. We tried a few other things couldn’t get it. Called the plumber for a service call because hubby who is an electrician needed sleep so he could work safely at the mine tonight rather than to take apart the squirrel cage to test the motor himself. I’m fairly handy myself so when he went to bed I searched the for trane xe80 motor problems and found your post. I went down and switched the wires to see if the fan worked(it did yay). I put the wires back the way they were and saw an issue with a connector after I fixed it the furnace started working again. Thanks for making this video and helping to save me some money for an unneeded service call!
Dude! Thank you!! I had a failed solder joint in the SAME SPOT! I just soldered it liberally, and it WORKS! Saved me $200.
glad to help.. if I had mine to do over I would just re-solder also instead of replacing the whole control board.. but either way much cheaper than a service call.. thanks for reply..
Thanks for the video. I have a Trane xv90 w variable-speed blower. I never could get the fan to come on by switching wires, but my setup is diff. Rather than the lead going from the kill switch to the control board, it heads off toward the control module, I guess (there is a solid metal panel blocking my view). So to me, it seems the kill switch sends power to the module first, then to the control board, maybe? Anyway, I pulled the control panel and sure enough...some oxidized joints on a couple relays. So if you had done your own soldering, would you have de-soldered first? Thanks. Signed sweltering in Charleston.
Did you de-solder first? (I don't know this stuff, but watched a vid and the guy de-soldered joints before re-soldering. Thanks
geniuses come in all shapes and sizes! Didn’t go to hvac school but you solved it!!!
About to venture into a similar journey. Same symptoms. Hopefully I won't have to spend the whole day in the attic!
Thanks to your video, I have an idea of I'll be dealing with.
I'm an HVAC technician you did really good
Thanks, even a blind hog etc..
Thanks PeanutButterMan! Great vid. Nice to see other "non-HVAC guys" sharing what they've learned by careful experimentation and using simple logic and common sense. My blower motor was growling at startup so I pulled the whole thing and found that it didn't have any oiling ports. Saw another vid that showed how to split the motor to lube it. After reinstalling I got a hum on startup but blower didn't start. Replaced the cap and still have the same problem. Now that you've shown me how to replace the circuit board w/CFR (cooling fan relay) on it, that will be my next step. Can't thank you enough!
You're welcome.. Good luck with yours..
@@tongo117 Just a quick follow up: Powered the blower motor Med & Hi (that's all it has) and they worked fine. Still get the hum on start up but I can spin the fan to get it started. I definitely thought the new capacitor would do it. Must be the CFR on the board. Found a new replacement on Amazon for $100. Got my fingers crossed!🤞 Great fun though (if it finally works)!🍺
Well are we having fun yet? Replaced the board with NEW OE replacement. Fairly easy straight forward job. Unfortunately, didn't do the trick. Still acts like a bad Cap, I get the hum but only starts if I spin the blower by hand. I wonder what the defect rate is on replacement capacitors? I guess I'll try another one, different brand.
@@Usnthemtoo Did you finally get it fixed? What was it?
Mhaaa man! I think you did a better job of working on the unit and explaining than a A/C guy would! Thank you very easy explanation and helpful information! Straight to the point with accuracy! And just for that you've got yourself a new subscriber 🎉
👍Thanks for the sub..
I'm in complete agreement! AWESOME. I, too, am trying to save money, but also wanting to learn more about these things.
Dude you did better then a lot of hvac techs out there trust me
I like your presentation,very straight foward and to the point.THE DO IT YOUR SELF GUY!LOL
I had the same thing, but before you spend any money on a circuit board that blackened solder joint to the relay can be cleaned and re soldered. They dry out and then arc as the connection breaks. I scraped the joint clean on mine, and a bit of flux and solder and it runs good again
Good to know.. Hopefully others will see your comment and use your advice for a cheaper/faster repair..
OPDlab I did exactly the same. I tested the motor (thanks PeanutButterMan!), it was OK.
Next step I checked the board.
In the original video you can see that relay contact is all black and disconnected from the board as a result of a shortage. I had the same problem.
I did clean the relay contact sticking through the board as well as the board, then just used flux and a little bit more solder to connect relay contact back to the board.
I even didn't disconnect a single wire, just switched off the power, released the board by squeezing the holders with the needle-nose pliers, turned the board around and finished everything like that. Then returned board back and switched the power on.
Bingo! The unit is back to business.
Thank you very much both PeanutButterMan and OPDlab!
Great..video. Even the same unit. Replaced capacitor tested fan just like shown. It was the board...
Really appreciate your video. Used your bypass method to test the blower motor and it ran right away. Went ahead and replaced the capacitor, and now hear a buzzing, but no fan spin. Just ran to Trane for the control board(mine did not appear to be burned like yours) but it is the next logical step. Will install this weekend and update. Worst case scenario, will have a tech come look at it if this doesn't work-but will not have to pay the upcharge for the parts already installed;-). Thanks again
Hope the new board fixes the problem.. Thanks for reply..
Worked like a charm! New board is different from the one that I and you had. Same connections just in different places.
Great video. Just what I was looking for. Both the black and blue wire for me wouldnt turn the fan. If I gave the fan a little spin to get it started, it ran fine. But from a standstill the fan wouldnt start. Going to have to replace the motor I guess.
Did it work when you changed the motor? It sounds like the capacitor failed.
Try replacing the capacitor,if it's a PSC motor... They're cheap / real cheap...
@@lopchong7768 yes once I changed the motor, it was fixed. It was a good learning lesson on all the parts of the furnace. I feel much more comfortable working on the electrical parts at least.
Thanks for your Info .Perfect . I have the same problem today .. Now trying to find a company ASP to get here soon ,, Texas has hot summers
Clever thing you did with the doorswitch. Im in the trade and never thought of that. Lol.
not to be a HVAC man u done a damn good job videoing & explaining everything thanks
Thanks.. Glad to help..
Nice video. Good logic and even better teaching skills. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge & experience.
You are welcome.. Thanks for reply..
Thank you for taking the time to help others! Had the exact same problem and your vid helped me diagnose it.
Glad to help.. Thanks for reply..
good job, working on finding the problem with mine, I dont have a circuit board, just a board called a time delay but I think it does the same function. I replaced a bad capacitor, 5 bucks it was definitly bad, but there is a second problem where the fan will not come on, replacing the capacitor got it to come on for an hour or so then the fan shut off.
Great blower motor tip!
Much Respect learning as you go.
I am a a/c tech good job way to think smart.
My board was fried, just like yours! But big question is, what fried it in the first place, and will it do it again soon if cause is not found?
That's a good trick . I'll put that in my tool bag . Maybe I'll use it after I'm down with hvac school.
good troubleshooting approach , bravo
You saved me buddy! Thanks,,,, now i need to find a board fast, my house is freezing up here in Canada and it's a weekend!
Dean Edward supplyhouse.com
Great video for this problem! Thanks for posting!
I did the same thing. The fan started and ran, with different speeds. But then it will stop a few hours later ... even with a new capacitor. When it stopped, I reached in and touched the motor, it was hot. So I concluded the fan bearings are going bad. As the fan runs, it generated too much heat that the air flow could not cool it down, thus the fan would stop. I'll replace the motor with a new one with ball bearings in a few days. Hopefully this will fix my problem.
Having the same issue...was the problem the fan motor or the control board ? Thanks
@@guerguaa Replacing the fan fixed the problem. I think if the motor got hot. It would most likely be the motor.
I'll give it a shot , thanks for the quick response 👍🏼
Great vid!! You saved my month.. Plus, its been a terrible week here in MN.
thanks. Had not thought of snapping pic(s) for wire placement.
thanks so much, I worried about that I screwed up the furnace when I installed the humidifier, then I noticed the door was opening, the savty switch stuff
I don't even wanna find out how much the HVAC guy would quote me for this 🤣
flat service call/diagnostic fee + price of control board + actual time/labor spent on repair = ???
Minimum $600
Here's a tip wait until you get the new board. Then replace the wires from one board to another that way you can't go wrong
OK, I see the problem, when I opened mine up I didn't see a squirrel so I guess mine ran away. I trapped one outside that was stealing bird seed from the feeder, popped it into the cage and it runs really well now.
I noticed your control board is discolored I have same problem no blower every thing works but blower wont come on and Sometimes it works sometimes it wont run a some times only raise temp a little then blower kicks out any help on my trane heat pump
That’s really good, good job!
Wow! Super helpful information! Thank you!
Fantastic video, coil was frozen and furnace worked, would of spent more time than i needed trouble shooting the fan without this video. went straight to the board after watching this video and flipped it over without unplugging a thing and the damn thing failed in the same solder spot as the rest of you. will pick up a new board tomorrow and have it fixed in 5 minutes when i get home from work.
Great idea man. Thanks for the help! Saved me some money and headache for sure.
Thanks for the video. Nice work.
Are you in So California? I wish YOU could come and fix our AC! I am just watching videos so I am not completely stupid when the AC guy comes to fix it.
Sorry.. I'm 2,500 miles away.. S/E GA
You the man ! Great troubleshooting !
Thanks!! I've got a bad circuit board. Jumper to blower motor was easy ..
PBM, I replaced the circuit board but now it still doesn't run. I hear a relay click and the small fan starts for a moment but then stops. It'll keep clicking if I hold the door switch pressed. The motor ran fine when hot wired. Now that the board has been replaced...any suggestions? Thanks,
Ron
The old board had a big white (ballast?) resistor across the power strip. I put it on the new board the same but figure the new board may likely have this resistor built-in the board now? I tried without the resistor too but no difference.
What did you end up finding out? I'm about ready to order a new board, but wondering if there is something holding out the fan relay on the board from coming on, like a limit switch. I'm going to do more research and troubleshooting the next few days. Good thing we're at the start of fall, in between cooling and heating seasons for the moment
Genius little maneuver
Good video can you do the inducing if the control board is not sending 120 volts to the inducer can you bypass that
Thank you very good. I connected 120V to the fan like you did. I hear a humming sound. But not sure if the blower is running or not. Any recommendation will help
If your motor is working you should hear more (louder) than a humming sound.. And you can feel air being drawn into the blower housing (squirrel cage).. You could also check your vents.. If air is coming out of the vents as it normally would then your blower motor is working.. If not, the problem may be that the blower motor itself is faulty and needs to be replaced..
thank you. I think the motor is the problem. I will change
you may not have a full 120v ac to the motor. Most likely you do but without an electrical meter you can't be sure.
If it's humming and not turning it's probably a bad capacitor.
Great job I'm doing mine now
FYI, I had similar issue and it was the transformer and the capacitor. Both at the same time.
Great video. Thank you for your help.
great job! one wire at a time same way me hvac tech does it !
Nice job man! And thank you for this.
You're welcome.. Thanks for reply..
Same issue here, fan relay is burnt on the back of the board. The relay would click when switched on at the thermostat but no fan. This issue came up after swapping out my thermostat (ecobee 3) with an identical model, just one version newer.
I doubt it, but does anyone know if a faulty thermostat could blow the fan relay? I am hesitant to try that thermostat again after replacing a $250 control board. This could also just be a coincidence, odd timing?
Yeah it doesn't seem like the two would be related but don't take that as fact.. Hopefully someone with experience will reply..
I can't believe that worked. fan cranked right up. looked on the back of the control board but only saw some caramel colored stains like you have as well but no harsh burning. what would you have checked if you didn't find that obviously burned relay?
If you haven't checked/replaced the capacitor (cheap and easy) I would do that next.. ua-cam.com/video/kdFIARakavk/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/ozOhWeIk_Hs/v-deo.html
+PeanutButterMan Hey Thanks! that was the first thing I replaced. it was bulged a little at the top. It didn't solve the problem but best to replace anyways. it turned out just to be a dirty flame sensor. I almost bought a new control board!
I was able to get my blower running using this trick, is there a way to get the outside AC to kick on as well? Only my air handler runs now with this process.
Lol
What is the hi speen wire labeled on the mother board. So ik I connect the right wire
Could you also take the hot wire going to the switch and connect the hi speed together to make it work?
Any way you get power to the hi speed fan lead should work to tell you if motor is good/bad.. I'm not sure if those kill switches are standard on all units but I had one, so I used it.. Whatever method you use, just be sure power is off while making connections then back on to test motor..
What symptoms did you have? My unit did absolutely nothing when called whether on a/c or heat or if the fan was turned to on. I discovered the 5 amp fuse was blown and replaced it and now i get a slight humming sound when a/c is called.
The only symptom I had was that the interior fan motor did not run.. When a/c was turned on at thermostat my exterior unit (fan/condenser) both worked.. When switched to heat interior gas burner lit off as it should but no interior fan in either case.. No air through vents.. I had no tripped breakers or blown fuses and no humming sound.. Just a non-working interior fan motor.. Which as you see in the video turned out to be a fried fan relay on the control board..
So, I totally wish I had followed your advice to start with...but no, I replaced the motor and capacitor and still only got the same humming sound. I watched your video again, tried it....and the fan spun right up. *SIGH*, well, I did learn to replace a motor, capacitor and clean the blower wheel and housing. Grrr, how could I not take a blown fuse as a big hint that it could be a control board problem? LMAO. Thanks so much for your video. Off to buy a circuit board. Please speak up if you think there's anything else I should be looking for.
Did u put the thermostat to fan on before you did this to see if it was the relay...having a similar issue thinking it's a bad relay
yes.. i did put thermostat fan switch to on position but fan did nothing.. it only came on when i ran power directly to it as shown in video..
Thanks, good teaching skills.
My blower can start but shut off couple of minutes later, I touch the motor it's super hot, believe it's overheating shut off. It's wore out and even I add oil to it's bearing, not work, have to replace a new motor.
Great video. Thank you!
So I did the bypass and my fan came on! Unfortunately the circuit board looks fine. There are no loose or burned out connections. Any ideas on what else it could be now that I know it’s not the fan?
My first thought would be the capacitor.. That's covered in this video along with the problem I had with the control board/fan relay:
ua-cam.com/video/T5j4Q8Zp_qk/v-deo.html
PeanutButterMan Thanks for the quick reply! So get this, before I got your response the blower started working. I had ordered a capacitor earlier when I watched your video, which will be here in two days. Would this thing work with a faulty capacitor?
Mine did the same thing! Thanks for the video!!
Glad it helped.. Thanks for reply..
PeanutButterMan I put a bead of solder on the joint where the solder weld broke. I was able to get it up and running until I got the new board in. It gets real hot where we are at. Thanks for the help.
@@danielwade4009 you are welcome.. thanks for reply..
people laugh at me when I take pictures or label the wire's but I don't care i'd rather be safe than sorry.
jimbola77 just in case.. you need to be 100%. I hate having to fix someone problems when everything this everywhere and missing
So i used the kill switch to check my fan and the fan works. If my fans works, does that mean my circuit board can potentially be burned out? Haven’t checked the back yet but I was just trying to make sense because I was little confused if I still needed to check the back of my circuit board if the fan show it was working ?
Yes.. Just make sure the power is turned off before you remove the control board..
What did it turn out to be? I've got the same issue, and I'm pretty sure it's the board, the blower motor will run fine when powered up by an extension cord.
It was the capacitor, once replace it worked
That blinking light is a onboard diagnostic light. I knew you had fixed it and it was working with fast blink indicating system normal has a call for heat. Did it occur to you to look at those of other trouble code lights listed on the panel lid where you found the controller information. Like the solid continuous light indicating change controller. Just curious the indicator was present before you did all this, or was the light otherwise indicating normal operation with the burnt out board? Please let me know.
Btw, I loved your fan blower test. Great method. Very inventive and practical.
I didn't know that was a diagnostic light so no, I didn't consider trouble codes.. Initially I was just trying to figure out a way to bypass the control board and run power directly to the motor.. When the motor ran with direct power I looked deeper and saw the burnt solder on the back of the board.. Then saw board replacement info on the back of the panel.. I'm certainly no HVAC tech and just got lucky that the problem was so obvious.. The burnt solder.. Knowing that light is diagnostic may help me in the future.. Thanks for that info..
To PeanutButterMan's defense, my board is giving me 6 blinks which means bad ground or reversed polarity. Neither are the problem. The board is bad.
Does anyone have a picture the wires or where I can find like a diagram or something . I totally forgot to t ale pictures and now I don’t know where the wires go
noticed Blower Fan not working last night and I can smell something burned, like burnt plastic or something....could that be an indication of fried board / relay on the board? or "Most" likely it's the Blower Fan Motor?
if you had a major meltdown on the board I would think you may get a burnt plastic smell.. in my case with only one fried joint on my board there was no smell at all.. gotta check it all, board, capacitor, motor, and wiring.. shorted wire would likely give off burnt plastic smell..
board might be burned out. You gotta let the tech know about it soon.
@@tongo117 I got my problem fixed same day today. The tech came back with the fan, genuine carrier fan, and then installed and tested works everything fine. Also tested my heat as well, just in case when the merciless winter comes. Now I finally remember how ac feels
I did exactly what you showed and it the fan works! I checked the back of the board and didn't see any damage (no fried spots).
I do not show any fault codes, in fact the red LED light doesn't come on at all.
Could it be the board? Or transformer? I'm thinking about ordering both today.
Could be the capacitor which gives a kick start to motor.. I point capacitor out at 1:12.. If you do replace the capacitor watch a video on that before you do.. There may be a stored elec charge which you need to discharge to avoid being shocked.. Or you may have the same problem I had but with no obvious sign (fried spot).. Even a hairline crack in solder can cause problems.. There's a comment below from someone that fixed their problem by re-soldering the joint that goes to the fan relay..
PeanutButterMan
Thank you so much.
What a quick response.
Transformer is bad
You can ohm out transformers. Check power and also check wires. Sometimes you can even ohm out the control board and wires for continuity. Some transformers also have a fuse built in to reset. It does sound like a bad transformer. I would figure out why did it go bad. UA-cam why do transformers go bad. This will also help you out. Whenever I replace a part I ask why did it go bad. A thermostat shorting out because it was placed on a metal wall got me. Replaced a transformer and a week later had to go back.I didn't ask why did it fail.
thank you good to know if i have a problem
Thanks. It's very helpful. Thumbs up.
You are welcome.. Thanks for reply..
Great video very informative
sweeeet love those type of tip's excellent!!!!!!
Great info but please for safety's sake...REMOVE RINGS AND JEWELRY BEFORE working around any electrical components. Just a tip!
Never thought of that but it makes sense.. Will do from now on.. Thanks..
@@tongo117 USAF training! Be safe!
Hi was your furnace humming when they went out?
With this repair, no humming.. With a repair I made about a week ago, yes, there was humming.. bad capacitor.. Here's the video: ua-cam.com/video/ul3RiDNn6io/v-deo.html
Very interesting video clip
Thank you for sharing
Like it
I have an old samsung ac. It is a non inverter mini split. It's got a indoor fan motor error. I am really pissed off because the fan spins but it spins way too fast. The fan speed button does nothing. The ac just beeps when i pressed it. So idk if it's the pcb plz help. Thanks
I'm not an AC guy and I doubt this refers to the model you have but if your error code is E154 the link below may help.. Your "electronic fan speed control computer" may have failed.. www.justanswer.com/hvac/5dff3-samsung-mini-split-aqv12v-unit-displays-e154.html
@@tongo117 ya i think it's the controller. But there are no parts avalible for my unit anymore sadly
Great video. My 1990's Lennox AC which has no door switch will not blow air. I attached black blower wire directly to incoming black wire power source (only for a few seconds ) and not changing anything else. Fan still dont blow air. I see no capacitor and if there is one is must be behind a metal panel making it hard to get to. Did I splice it in wrong ? Thanks to anybody for help.
If black wire is high speed motor wire and if the motor is good then that should work..
@@tongo117 Thank you and i really appreciate the response. Learned that you must disconnect all other motor speed wires from the control board else motor can be damaged. Also - even if no start, the motor may be good since the capacitor may be bad. Yep, the capacitor was behind the metal panel and was really not that hard to get to. There were only two screw on the bottom of the panel and you need to be careful not to stretch or damage wires or control board.
What if you just left the fan directly connected to power?
I re-routed the power that was going to the control board to test the motor.. If left like that the control board would not have power and the fan would run constantly and never shut off..
You lodt me at the capaciyor man. Theres an easy way to check a cap and its well worth $10 to me everytime rather than throwing money at the problem with a prayer
$8
@@tongo117 where can I get one lol the heat has me willing to spend a good $8 in efforts
As long as you have the hot leg going to one side of that switch, I don’t think it matters which side. Does it?
Yeah that makes sense.. shouldn't matter which side is hot.. I just left the hot lead in place and swapped out the lead going straight to the motor..
PeanutButterMan I bring that up in case the wires have previously been lnstalled differently and the incoming line is on the other side.
As long as you trace the wire that goes to the board, you should be okay.
When I ohmed my door switch, I am not sure whether I paid any attention to which side I put the wires back on.
Like I said, as long as you trace the wire that goes to the board, you should okay.
Interesting video. I had thought of this.
I wonder if the inverter fan motor could be checked the same way since the pressure switch has to be activated in normal operation in order for the inverter fan motor to work.
thank you for sharing!!!!!!
How about if the blower stays on all the time could that be the fuse? Please help asap
If fuse was blown fan would not work at all but replacing fuse is cheap so you can try that and see.. I would think more likely it would be the fan motor relay on the control board.. Not an hvac tech so that's just a guess.. First check (which I'm sure you've done already) would be to make sure the fan switch at thermostat is set to "auto" and not "on" which would make the fan run continuously..
Mine was the same problem and I just resoldered it an it works fine now
yeah that probably would have fixed mine too.. next time..
that was awesome! thank you
You are welcome.. Thanks for reply..
My blower can run but shut offs after a couple of minutes then, it comes on after 6 min, run for a minute then it shut off again, and repeat the same, any ideas, I check the capacitor, motor, they seem to work, please help
I don't know from experience but this link suggests bad capacitor or bad motor bearings which can cause the motor overheat and shut off.. Then cool and start up.. And repeat this on/off cycle as it heats/cools.. hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?1780591-AC-inside-blower-motor-keeps-turning-on-and-off
I’d check the voltage coming from the board on black wire . If you have sub 120 volts your board likely has a bad relay . If you have 0 volts verify your low voltage control is sending 24 volts from the thermostat. If all these checks show correct voltage use a meter to check the uf of the capacitor + 6% or -6% of the capacitor rating is acceptable . If the cap and voltage checks out ohm the the two brown wires going to capacitor (remove and discharge cap before testing in any way ) you should have between 25-50 ohms of resistance on the start winding(brown wires) if not it’s a bad start winding . Check all speed phases to ground using ohms , or look for locked up bearings . Mine had a bad relay on the pcb causing it to get low voltage and for it to trip over thermal . The over thermal is wire in on the common wire so and checks involving common need to be done after motor cools . I check my motor using the method in the video . Great vid thanks for the shared knowledge
@@irajackson6423 Based on your reply you know way more about this than me.. Thank You for sharing!!
I wonder if I can use the same process to check my inducer motor
never had an issue with my inducer motor so i don't have an answer.. maybe someone else can help??
Inducers work differently, if it is a 2 wire you can disconnect put your meter on the black lead and white lead. If power is present then you have a bad motor if does not start. Some people will actually blow into the pressure switch to prove draft and get everything else to turn on. This is dangerous.This can cause flame roll out. Recommended always to get a professional. If you dont order the OEM to get the identical motor and plug and play.
I replaced the board, after coming to the conclusion that it wasn't sending power to the inducer relay, I bought a new one, and it turned out mine too had burned out in the back right where one of the relays is soldered
@Bob Boon
Agreed, same goes for blower motors. Inducers can have capacitors but most do not . Ecm or high efficiency motors are the wave of the future with 2 stage capabilities.
Or just turn on the unit and give hamster wheel an push start...it worked for me
thanks for the tip
Sweet vid
Great tip
I had same problem on my Carrier 24 yr old furnace-I just replaced the relay on circuit board - cost me a whole $5.00
yep... replacing the whole board like i did was likely overkill.. if i had to do it over again i would first just re-solder the fried joint and if that didn't work replace the relay like you did..
@CreditDebitCards CostYouMoney How'd you replace the relay? I have the same problem now and I'd much rather spend $5 vs the $85 to replace the board.
nice job
Where did you buy your parts?
Ebay.. www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=White+Rodgers+50A55-3797+Direct+Replacement+for+Trane+Single+Stage+120v+Igniter&_id=191700953786&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658
How much a circuit board wil cost?
Same board used in video: www.ebay.com/itm/WHITE-RODGERS-50A55-3797-HSI-CONTROL-SAME-AS-TRANE-CNT02789-CNT02891-CNT03799/121751130673?epid=5011378565&hash=item1c58eed231:g:hj8AAOSw7NNUCbph