Joe, did you know maggot is still stalking your channel. This is a direct quote from him. "Ideally your indicator needs to be vertical and square to the machine spindle. None of the current designs automatically set an indicator true. There are no gauges to properly precision align and check if an indicator is true to the spindle." I may be old school, but I have never heard an indicator needs to be vertical. Anybody care to comment on this?
At the risk of setting myself up for a drive by...I'll comment here. I would be shocked beyond word if any indicator manufacturer suggested keeping the body of the indicator vertical to the machine spindle. With all due respect, that statement is absolutely false. Indicators serve two purposes. The first purpose is to "INDICATE" a difference in surface contact points or regions. Its really not a measuring tool unless used within the manufacturers suggested guidelines. The needle arm needs to be within 10-12 degrees of parallel to the axis or surface being measured. The body has absolutely ZERO to do with the accuracy of the reading. I respectfully disagree with their comment. Thanks Shop.
Lots of machinists say stupid crap from positions of authority, because they were unfortunately taught poorly and then instead of opening their minds to learning they entrenched their incorrect opinions.
This maggot fellow is just plain pathetic. I engaged him in a comment string based on Shop Techs quoted comment from him and he edited his video description to support his argument. I can see why he's blocked.
LOL Wasn't thinking how good I was, Just thinking how lucky I was getting a part centered in a 4 jaw first try. Sucked when I realized the indicator was bottomed out. CHEERS
I have the Chinese knock off version of the Indicol and it was rubbish until I replaced all the bushes and beefed up the spring washers. Now it works well. Between you and Stefan, I've learned how to use it properly. Thanks Joe.
Mark I had to do the same. I was hoping for a better suggestion. I have been thinking about Making tapered steel or aluminum bushings but for now it is on the burner behind the back burner, lol I didn't want to admit I bought a piece of junk LOL Thanks Mark I always love your videos.
Its exactly tutorials like this that are so helpful and needed to advance the skills in machining, no matter if you have years of experience or are brand new. Joe; you be da master !!!!!!
Thanks for providing me have some of your knowledge for the future. I have a complete wood shop, CNC equipment, laser cutters and some very small machining tools but I am in the process of purchasing a PM lathe and mill just to have fun as I retire. While others make good videos of themselves making something I always get the feeling that you make things only so that you can teach others the "tricks" or more preferable the "Knowledge" of the trade. Thank You
I have one of those Indicol things and had no clue as to how-to use it or what it was. I have never received any formal training in machining and everything I know has been through watching UA-cam channels such as this and many hours of practice. This video cleared a few things up for me, newbie’s got to love-em. 😜
Joe keep your comments coming. They reflect your experience and intelligence combined with great teaching abilities. Right is right. Thanks Joe. Cheers, Will
I've watched your videos for years and based on what I have seen, I bought the EDGE version of that indicator holder. It works but has some "slip-stick" in the hinge joints which are not easily adjustable. The Indicol brand seems easier to adjust - looks like there is an Indicol in my future. Thanks for all of the tips!
Joe, I got one of these in a box of tools from an old retired machinist and wasn’t sure how it worked. I don’t have a mill yet. Thank you for this and all your videos. I wish I knew just the wealth of things you have forgotten 😊 All the best, Norm in Arizona
You are right; I do love those. Our shop has one, but amateurs have abused it so I bought my own. I also bought my own thousandths and tenths indicators to mount.
Thanks Joe, I have a lathe, mill, drill that works well for me and my small Makerspace. With limited distance between my mill spindle this technique is awesome. I bought my 3 in 1 machine 4 years ago; knowing nothing of this machinist world. Your videos and instruction, along with others helped me navigate the learning curve. Thanks Joe Pie!
Good one Joe. I have a rule that has served me well since 74; I don't make things that I can buy. Folks in the business of making money focus on that task.
My first machine shop work was at a mold manufacturing plant. Everyone had one of these so I got one as well. Great tool! A lot of people bash them but they work great. We used them to make sure everything is flat, straight, locate holes, and find center of mold plates. On and off in a flash without changing tools out of the spindle head.
I see round ones as totally useless and only suggested by someone with extremely limited experience. Just my opinion. J frame indicol style is the only way to go.
@@joepie221 I've had people tell me they just don't trust indicol holders because of lack of rigidity or something along those lines? Called them junk. . If it can indicate for mold work I'd say it works fine.
I really like the Indicol. I thought about buying the cheaper knockoff version but, I thought about what you said in one of your other videos about,buy nice or,buy twice.Nice tips about setting it up.Thanks
Just watched it avidly and I like it. I had just decided to make something like this and was checking out possible designs when I found this video and realised that I already have one of these in my toolbox!!! I got it in a collection of tools from a deceased estate that had been brought to our club. All the other members had left it so I grabbed it thinking it might be useful as a C-clamp.
Very good Joe.. I did not think about using the mfg label to figure out which way the needle was moving.. I got lazy and would set the needle to say 5. If it increased it was going one way and if it decreased the other. Makes it much easier for me when using a mirror. I'll do X axis first because on certain setups the dial face requires a mirror for Y..
Thanks, Joe. I had been having difficulty getting that procedure to where I could do it better. I think I had not been lining up the indicator as you showed. Many thanks.
As I indicated previously, this was an excellent video and demonstration of the Indicol Holder. I purchased a Model 138 (for quills up to 1 3/8") to use on my Clausing 8520. It fits perfectly and has quickly become my "go to" indicator holder. Thanks again for what you do.
Another great tip Joe. Thank you. This is definitely a tool I need to add to my arsenal. I have a few projects on the books that this would be ideal for, and much easier than trying to use an edgefinder.
When I first started machining 12 years ago that holder an indicator and a set of 12” calipers were the first tools I purchased. I’ve used that holder more times than I can count probably. It’s hands down one of the best investment for any manual machinist. (Great for sweeping/tramming in the head of the mill also)
I did a drawing for one of these on Monday. I started machining yesterday! Mine is to suit a Ø42mm spindle. I have one that I made to fit in the spindle but found it was inconvenient if you have to break down a tool setup then put it back the way it was.
I have never used one before except a school one for indicating changes in thickness in a guitar body, I just bought a couple with different attachments because I bought my first metal lathe ....Ive done loads of wood turning but I had all sorts of weird ways of lining up parts on those .. Most of those "wooden" work on a metal lathe 😐. Useful and very informative Joe thankyou.
Hi Joe Great little vid.I have been envious of that indicator of yours for a long time while watching your vids.Mainly because of the ease of its installation. I haven’t been able to find one here in the UK so i went for the sort that fits into a collet and the dial faces you and stays put but the indicator rotates. which is the only minor criticism of your one, the fact that the dial moves round with the needle.The main problem with the collet fitting one is the number of needles you have to mess with.So all in all yours is the one to get.I,ll call round Friday morning to borrow it if thats ok. Great info as always, keep it coming mate.
I must be losing my marbles. I could have put money on the fact that you'd done this before. This afternoons project is to draw the shape at 1:01. Tomorrows project is to stick it on my little cnc and make a couple of units. Terrific device. Thanks Indicol. Thanks Joe.
Exactly right about the IndicOL, Joe. I've had some of my #178 Style S for the J &2J Bridgeport Heads and their other products along with parts for so many years now and they are priceless. Excellent articulations and best friction hold ever. Also love their Tree and Universal Swivel Holders for the dovetail on my Interapid test indicators and others supporting the 3 diameter s. For those that don't use them, they should....Good call on the video, Joe.....Best Regards. Ricko
I have not read all the comments, but it is very important that the stylus tip, is not loose in any sideways movement. The little pivot bearing needs to be correctly set, as they do wear over time, and require adjusting. Indicators will last longer if you use it with the least amount of travel. As a guide I try to stay in the lower quarter of it's travel when any sideways movement is to occur. A good useful tool as well.
@@joepie221 You kidding? I'm a hobbyist. I can't afford one of those. And it probably wouldn't fit my Sherline mill, either. Not much there to grip onto. No, I'll have to make one, I'm afraid.
All thing Brown and Sharpe are favorite, my dad deals in machinery in south Jersey. His care packages most always include something B&S. Great video Mr. Pie
@@joepie221 best dad in the world, Jersey is a great place to be from but living in Oklahoma now and never leaving. This part of the country is truly the best. Be safe in all you do.
@@joepie221 how long have you had your besttest indicator? I was telling someone earlier in the comments my dad gave me mine 13 years ago for my first indicator and he bought it for his first indicator when he got out of high school many years ago. And it still works amazing!
WOW!!!, I just ordered one of these, I'm so tired of swapping in a drill chuck to hold my indicator, which requires lowering and raising the table, which is real tiring with my all manual mill, plus I'm pretty sure my Z axis and my quill aren't perfectly aligned so the lowering and raising always worries me, and my arms are so tired of all that lowering and raising, thanks Joe !!! The next reason for my arms getting tired is tapping, the table has to be lowered and raised about 3-1/2" for a typical small #0-to-#10 tap wrench after tap-drilling, so someday I'd like to make a tap wrench with a 1/2" diameter body to fit inside my drill chuck. the "Tee" arms might be welded onto the collet closer. Hope this description makes sense...
I do almost all of my tapping on the Bridgeport at low speed with the tap mounted directly in the drill chuck. Use the correct size tap drill and plenty of lubricant and you’ll seldom break a tap. On sizes smaller than #10 use a slightly larger tap drill. For through holes use spiral point taps. For bottom holes use spiral flute taps.
@@ellieprice363 I should have been more specific, I just finished a 1:5 scale working model of a Rolls Royce Merlin engine, the most common tapping sizes for it were #0, #1, and #2, and I'd never tap any of those by any way but by hand, some of the parts had many tens of hours of machining before tapping which I wouldn't risk with any type of automatic tap. I do already have some spiral point taps, but like your suggestion of also getting some spiral flute taps. Many thanks.
@@MostlyIC Agreed, you definitely want to tap those tiny model parts by hand with the least change of breakage. Spiral point taps are known as “gun” taps in the trade since they “shoot” the chips out ahead of the tap. They’re also stronger since the flutes don’t need to be as deep.
@@ellieprice363 and I have broken a tap or two in my model engine parts, they are always aluminum so was able to dissolve the tap with nitric acid which doesn't do anything to the aluminum except make it look a little anodized. It takes a long time because there's no circulation of liquid in such a tiny hole, but its better than machining the whole part over from scratch !!!
@@MostlyIC Thanks for the additional info on tapping and dissolving the broken ones. I wonder if form taps are manufactured that small? They’re much stronger and work well in aluminum. Takes a slightly larger tap drill size.
Good tips. I note that the Indicol seems to have 3 points of contact other than the clamp which is obviously a deliberate feature and I suspect key to its success.
Kind of bored today and saw this while cruising around. When I see pieces like this I would rather get one from the manufacturer as when dealing with tenths it should be tenths accurate and not just like the everyday mag mounts not only be a trusted body. Thanks a bunch Joe. I will have a look see and although I no longer need one but as gifts this will be really appreciated. Good to see you bud.
This is one of my most used tools. It would make a great gift. Check my video description for amazon links to the original product and budget knockoffs.
@@joepie221 I like a velvet lined wooden box. My tastes are proven to no cheap/inexpensive knock offs tools in my boxes. I am a firm believer in quality everything. Still though we still have to shop for our tools. Every once in a while there really are deals that pop up and then I pounce, LOL. Caution of course has to be exercised as even Snap-On has a dud eh ?
I knew all that but what I learned is the reference to Brown and Sharp as to keep track of which way the error goes. I did not like the technique because I got confused once the indicator spun around. I will give it a second chance by painting Red and White dots on the zeroing dial. Good job Pie.
Joe I’m thinking a good video for you to do is on surface finish on manual lathe for some reason I think you are one of those guys who knows how to get as good a finish that can be obtained on any material. Those guys who only ran the lathes years ago that are gone now and Russian immigrants now that run only manual lathes crazy good surface finishes.
Sir, you are a master, so when I hear you say “unloosen”, I swallow it and move on. I won’t bust your balls about it, but it never stops hitting that grammar nerve! 😂
Before anyone's grammar nerves get too roughed up, grab a dictionary and look up the word. "Unloosen" is a well established word, and means the same thing as "loosen," exactly as Joe uses it.
I have and use the same indicol on my 2 B.P.s and my Haas. I have recently switched to a coaxial and don't want to touch that indicol again for centering on a round hole.
Agreed, they do add some height. On the Haas, i have a power Z axis with 16" or travel and have not ran into an issue with height yet. On the B.P. it does require a little arm workout to raise the knee after, or.... i typically lower the quill.
@@joepie221 that's my plan. One indicator dedicated so that it's always central to the Spindle. Multiple articulation is good but after seeing this video, I can see the need for a device that stays true to its rotational centre. Joe, you are a genius 😁
I bought a Co-Ax indicator and found it wasn't really a lot of use as it takes way too much headroom to use. I made the 'Indecol' style clamp piece to 'best guess' dimensions (basically 3 contact points with indicator on centre line) and found a low profile indicator holder so much more convenient. Either buy or make the slip over clamp piece and you will stop using co-ax on anything below 5"~6" diameter, with different extension arms you wouldn't need a co-ax. I just wish I had made one several years ago but wasn't aware of their existence until watching Joe Pie vids
Another great shop gem from the magic bag of knowledge. Keep em coming we all are listening and watching. Anything on coaxial indicating? I am always struggling with mine.
I made mine replacing the round bar with another flat bar so it is always pointing on center. In all my years I have never had a need of the ability to rotate the round bar.
@@joepie221 Hmm, maybe, but I have a rigid indicator holder and bearing race for that... Even if I did use that feature, I only tram my head in once a month or so, while I use the indicator holder every day, so the feature really only slows down the most common of the tool.
Think i shall be making or buying one of these for my for my first mill purchase kondia fv-1 and and even has an additional horizontal mill head (not that either of us know how its meant to be installed or driven...well get there)
I love an Indicol. They're so damned handy. Mr. Pete made a video of how to cast the main body of one similar if anyone wants to go the route. Sorry to shill someone else's channel in your comments, Joe. But I didn't think you'd mind if it helps people do better work or save them time and money.
Hey Joe, in trade school these were part of out tool kits and I use mine almost daily (although the Haas spindle probe has me a bit spoiled). Honestly this is a tool that is better bought than built if only to keep the guy who makes them in business. But I'm still a little confused. Our instructor demonstrated sweeping in a part with his Starrett indicator. He claimed the yellow half of the face was more accurate then the white side. I figured the two colored dial face made it easier to keep track of the pointer when reading with a mirror. What say you?
I bought one from Edge Technology and so far it seems to be pretty good, $50.00 on their web site. I also used one of your links and bought the Vision Aid, it helps a lot when your vision isn't what it was 20 years ago.
Joe, did you know maggot is still stalking your channel. This is a direct quote from him.
"Ideally your indicator needs to be vertical and square to the machine spindle. None of the current designs automatically set an indicator true. There are no gauges to properly precision align and check if an indicator is true to the spindle."
I may be old school, but I have never heard an indicator needs to be vertical. Anybody care to comment on this?
At the risk of setting myself up for a drive by...I'll comment here. I would be shocked beyond word if any indicator manufacturer suggested keeping the body of the indicator vertical to the machine spindle. With all due respect, that statement is absolutely false. Indicators serve two purposes. The first purpose is to "INDICATE" a difference in surface contact points or regions. Its really not a measuring tool unless used within the manufacturers suggested guidelines. The needle arm needs to be within 10-12 degrees of parallel to the axis or surface being measured. The body has absolutely ZERO to do with the accuracy of the reading. I respectfully disagree with their comment. Thanks Shop.
Lots of machinists say stupid crap from positions of authority, because they were unfortunately taught poorly and then instead of opening their minds to learning they entrenched their incorrect opinions.
@@SuperAWaC The maggot in question is next level ignorant. I had actually forgotten about him until Shops comment. Sad.
@@SuperAWaC My favorite comment is "Well that's the way we've always done it in this shop", drives me insane
This maggot fellow is just plain pathetic. I engaged him in a comment string based on Shop Techs quoted comment from him and he edited his video description to support his argument. I can see why he's blocked.
That body alignment can be easily overlooked! Great tip Joe!
LOL Wasn't thinking how good I was, Just thinking how lucky I was getting a part centered in a 4 jaw first try. Sucked when I realized the indicator was bottomed out. CHEERS
I usually check in 2 diferent spots on the indicator. Have been burnt by an indicator with a sticky spot before.
🤣🤣
I have the Chinese knock off version of the Indicol and it was rubbish until I replaced all the bushes and beefed up the spring washers. Now it works well. Between you and Stefan, I've learned how to use it properly. Thanks Joe.
So do I. It doesn't hold adjustment very well. I like Stefan's pivot arrangement.
Mark I had to do the same. I was hoping for a better suggestion. I have been thinking about Making tapered steel or aluminum bushings but for now it is on the burner behind the back burner, lol I didn't want to admit I bought a piece of junk LOL Thanks Mark I always love your videos.
Its exactly tutorials like this that are so helpful and needed to advance the skills in machining, no matter if you have years of experience or are brand new. Joe; you be da master !!!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for providing me have some of your knowledge for the future. I have a complete wood shop, CNC equipment, laser cutters and some very small machining tools but I am in the process of purchasing a PM lathe and mill just to have fun as I retire. While others make good videos of themselves making something I always get the feeling that you make things only so that you can teach others the "tricks" or more preferable the "Knowledge" of the trade. Thank You
Nah, I make real parts once in a while.
I have one of those Indicol things and had no clue as to how-to use it or what it was. I have never received any formal training in machining and everything I know has been through watching UA-cam channels such as this and many hours of practice. This video cleared a few things up for me, newbie’s got to love-em. 😜
Thank you Joe, That was a great explanation of how to use the indicator in a spindle holder😊
Joe keep your comments coming. They reflect your experience and intelligence combined with great teaching abilities. Right is right. Thanks Joe. Cheers, Will
Thanks Will.
I've watched your videos for years and based on what I have seen, I bought the EDGE version of that indicator holder. It works but has some "slip-stick" in the hinge joints which are not easily adjustable. The Indicol brand seems easier to adjust - looks like there is an Indicol in my future. Thanks for all of the tips!
Once again you teach and again, I learn. Thanks Joe.
Got one for my bridge port, I got one years ago after seeing yours👍🏻
I just grip on the 1/4" rod and use a collet, Weldon holder, or drill chuck.
Geart video, Joe,
All the cool kids hung around till the VERY END :)
Joe, I got one of these in a box of tools from an old retired machinist and wasn’t sure how it worked. I don’t have a mill yet. Thank you for this and all your videos. I wish I knew just the wealth of things you have forgotten 😊
All the best,
Norm in Arizona
Thanks Norm.
Thanks for all your prayers and getting back with my husband, he likes to watching your videos . Thanks for your support 💞
You have to stay true to yourself. That goes for both sides of anyone in a relationship. I hope your future is bright. :)
You are right; I do love those. Our shop has one, but amateurs have abused it so I bought my own. I also bought my own thousandths and tenths indicators to mount.
Thanks Joe, I have a lathe, mill, drill that works well for me and my small Makerspace. With limited distance between my mill spindle this technique is awesome. I bought my 3 in 1 machine 4 years ago; knowing nothing of this machinist world. Your videos and instruction, along with others helped me navigate the learning curve. Thanks Joe Pie!
Absolutely priceless tool. Bought one a couple of years ago because of you
And who doesn't love a good quickie!!, :) Thanks Joe.
Joe, Thank You, For ALL You Do ! Stay Safe... Excellent Tips...
I watched you use one, liked the idea. Bought one, love it. 👍
Its a great addition to the toolbox.
Good one Joe. I have a rule that has served me well since 74; I don't make things that I can buy. Folks in the business of making money focus on that task.
Great tips! Thanks, Joe.
Hey Joe thank you sir. For some reason I don't have a problem doing that setup, just works for me.
My first machine shop work was at a mold manufacturing plant. Everyone had one of these so I got one as well. Great tool! A lot of people bash them but they work great. We used them to make sure everything is flat, straight, locate holes, and find center of mold plates. On and off in a flash without changing tools out of the spindle head.
I see round ones as totally useless and only suggested by someone with extremely limited experience. Just my opinion. J frame indicol style is the only way to go.
@@joepie221 I've had people tell me they just don't trust indicol holders because of lack of rigidity or something along those lines? Called them junk. . If it can indicate for mold work I'd say it works fine.
I really like the Indicol. I thought about buying the cheaper knockoff version but, I thought about what you said in one of your other videos about,buy nice or,buy twice.Nice tips about setting it up.Thanks
Thanks for another great lesson. self taught model engineer here and this sort of stuff is just gold
Some will think its basic, but those are often the best things to reveal. Thanks for watching.
Just watched it avidly and I like it.
I had just decided to make something like this and was checking out possible designs when I found this video and realised that I already have one of these in my toolbox!!!
I got it in a collection of tools from a deceased estate that had been brought to our club. All the other members had left it so I grabbed it thinking it might be useful as a C-clamp.
Nice...
I have one and actually a BS indicator as well, however, with some of the tips you covered I am sure I can use it much better now. Thanks again!
Excellent.
Thanks Joe Great video - just what I was looking for
Very good Joe.. I did not think about using the mfg label to figure out which way the needle was moving.. I got lazy and would set the needle to say 5. If it increased it was going one way and if it decreased the other. Makes it much easier for me when using a mirror. I'll do X axis first because on certain setups the dial face requires a mirror for Y..
Brilliant Joe - thanks for the quick set up tip on this - I’m looking forward to practicing more with this. Another shop fundamentals gem!
One of the first tools I bought as an apprentice. Still got mine and it’s siting on my Gerstner as I speak
That is a handy tool. I made one for a Grizzly one time. I need to make a new one to fit the PM. Thanks for the video.
Great tutorial as always Joe. Thanks!
Joe Pie, he's absolutely one of the best, always!!
Many thanks.
Thanks, Joe. I had been having difficulty getting that procedure to where I could do it better. I think I had not been lining up the indicator as you showed. Many thanks.
Glad it helped!
Always great information and tips.
I like the one with the fine adjust. Makes initial setup a breeze, especially if you are using a tenths indicator.
Agreed.
Thank you I ordered one.
Very nice having the chance to meet you at the Bash Joe.
Gary
Thanks Joe.
You bet
As I indicated previously, this was an excellent video and demonstration of the Indicol Holder. I purchased a Model 138 (for quills up to 1 3/8") to use on my Clausing 8520. It fits perfectly and has quickly become my "go to" indicator holder. Thanks again for what you do.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Joe Always fun seeing other people methodology... Reading some of the comments below some people need to unloosen their humor LOL
I always say " Lighten up Francis" Reference to the movie Stripes.
Another great tip Joe. Thank you. This is definitely a tool I need to add to my arsenal. I have a few projects on the books that this would be ideal for, and much easier than trying to use an edgefinder.
When I first started machining 12 years ago that holder an indicator and a set of 12” calipers were the first tools I purchased. I’ve used that holder more times than I can count probably. It’s hands down one of the best investment for any manual machinist. (Great for sweeping/tramming in the head of the mill also)
Mine comes out almost everyday. I love it.
I did a drawing for one of these on Monday. I started machining yesterday! Mine is to suit a Ø42mm spindle. I have one that I made to fit in the spindle but found it was inconvenient if you have to break down a tool setup then put it back the way it was.
Fully round ones may have their place, but I haven't found that place yet. :)
I have never used one before except a school one for indicating changes in thickness in a guitar body, I just bought a couple with different attachments because I bought my first metal lathe ....Ive done loads of wood turning but I had all sorts of weird ways of lining up parts on those .. Most of those "wooden" work on a metal lathe 😐.
Useful and very informative Joe thankyou.
Hi Joe
Great little vid.I have been envious of that indicator of yours for a long time while watching your vids.Mainly because of the ease of its installation.
I haven’t been able to find one here in the UK so i went for the sort that fits into a collet and the dial faces you and stays put but the indicator rotates.
which is the only minor criticism of your one, the fact that the dial moves round with the needle.The main problem with the collet fitting one is the number of needles
you have to mess with.So all in all yours is the one to get.I,ll call round Friday morning to borrow it if thats ok.
Great info as always, keep it coming mate.
I must be losing my marbles. I could have put money on the fact that you'd done this before.
This afternoons project is to draw the shape at 1:01. Tomorrows project is to stick it on my little cnc and make a couple of units.
Terrific device. Thanks Indicol. Thanks Joe.
Exactly right about the IndicOL, Joe. I've had some of my #178 Style S for the J &2J Bridgeport Heads and their other products along with parts for so many years now and they are priceless. Excellent articulations and best friction hold ever. Also love their Tree and Universal Swivel Holders for the dovetail on my Interapid test indicators and others supporting the 3 diameter s. For those that don't use them, they should....Good call on the video, Joe.....Best Regards. Ricko
Its a good tool to own.
Boy, I ask you at the Bash on Friday and there it is on Tuesday! Thanks for the tips!
You were my motivation for this video. Thanks for the question. I hope you had a safe trip home.
Thanks for the tip Joe about the dial gauge body must be in line with the axis of rotation. Tony
It can make things easier.
I have not read all the comments, but it is very important that the stylus tip, is not loose in any sideways movement. The little pivot bearing needs to be correctly set, as they do wear over time, and require adjusting. Indicators will last longer if you use it with the least amount of travel. As a guide I try to stay in the lower quarter of it's travel when any sideways movement is to occur. A good useful tool as well.
Great tip, thanks Joe! I have one and have used it but that tip you gave helps👌
That was so instructive that I just made a new playlist 'Tooling tips' to add it to.
Break out the checkbook.
@@joepie221 You kidding?
I'm a hobbyist. I can't afford one of those. And it probably wouldn't fit my Sherline mill, either. Not much there to grip onto.
No, I'll have to make one, I'm afraid.
Good video. I love these tips and tricks.
It spins concentric to the spindle. Always. :)
Excellent video. Will be getting an Indicol holder.
All thing Brown and Sharpe are favorite, my dad deals in machinery in south Jersey. His care packages most always include something B&S. Great video Mr. Pie
I'm from North Jersey. Morris county. 37 years. Good Dad by the way. :)
@@joepie221 best dad in the world, Jersey is a great place to be from but living in Oklahoma now and never leaving. This part of the country is truly the best. Be safe in all you do.
@@joepie221 how long have you had your besttest indicator? I was telling someone earlier in the comments my dad gave me mine 13 years ago for my first indicator and he bought it for his first indicator when he got out of high school many years ago. And it still works amazing!
@@Gillespie91 About 30 years. It goes back in the box every night before I go home.
WOW!!!, I just ordered one of these, I'm so tired of swapping in a drill chuck to hold my indicator, which requires lowering and raising the table, which is real tiring with my all manual mill, plus I'm pretty sure my Z axis and my quill aren't perfectly aligned so the lowering and raising always worries me, and my arms are so tired of all that lowering and raising, thanks Joe !!!
The next reason for my arms getting tired is tapping, the table has to be lowered and raised about 3-1/2" for a typical small #0-to-#10 tap wrench after tap-drilling, so someday I'd like to make a tap wrench with a 1/2" diameter body to fit inside my drill chuck. the "Tee" arms might be welded onto the collet closer. Hope this description makes sense...
I do almost all of my tapping on the Bridgeport at low speed with the tap mounted directly in the drill chuck. Use the correct size tap drill and plenty of lubricant and you’ll seldom break a tap. On sizes smaller than #10 use a slightly larger tap drill. For through holes use spiral point taps. For bottom holes use spiral flute taps.
@@ellieprice363 I should have been more specific, I just finished a 1:5 scale working model of a Rolls Royce Merlin engine, the most common tapping sizes for it were #0, #1, and #2, and I'd never tap any of those by any way but by hand, some of the parts had many tens of hours of machining before tapping which I wouldn't risk with any type of automatic tap. I do already have some spiral point taps, but like your suggestion of also getting some spiral flute taps. Many thanks.
@@MostlyIC Agreed, you definitely want to tap those tiny model parts by hand with the least change of breakage. Spiral point taps are known as “gun” taps in the trade since they “shoot” the chips out ahead of the tap. They’re also stronger since the flutes don’t need to be as deep.
@@ellieprice363 and I have broken a tap or two in my model engine parts, they are always aluminum so was able to dissolve the tap with nitric acid which doesn't do anything to the aluminum except make it look a little anodized. It takes a long time because there's no circulation of liquid in such a tiny hole, but its better than machining the whole part over from scratch !!!
@@MostlyIC Thanks for the additional info on tapping and dissolving the broken ones. I wonder if form taps are manufactured that small? They’re much stronger and work well in aluminum. Takes a slightly larger tap drill size.
That is a great shop gem.
Good tool.
Great advice, thankyou Joe...👍
Still have and use my Indicol. I use a blake coax as well.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Good tips. I note that the Indicol seems to have 3 points of contact other than the clamp which is obviously a deliberate feature and I suspect key to its success.
Makes it very versatile across a wide range of diameters.
@@joepie221 Very much so. A circular one would have to be a bearing fit to be better otherwise it would only have 2 points of contact.
Kind of bored today and saw this while cruising around. When I see pieces like this I would rather get one from the manufacturer as when dealing with tenths it should be tenths accurate and not just like the everyday mag mounts not only be a trusted body. Thanks a bunch Joe. I will have a look see and although I no longer need one but as gifts this will be really appreciated. Good to see you bud.
This is one of my most used tools. It would make a great gift. Check my video description for amazon links to the original product and budget knockoffs.
@@joepie221 I like a velvet lined wooden box. My tastes are proven to no cheap/inexpensive knock offs tools in my boxes. I am a firm believer in quality everything. Still though we still have to shop for our tools. Every once in a while there really are deals that pop up and then I pounce, LOL. Caution of course has to be exercised as even Snap-On has a dud eh ?
Enjoyed the teaching and demonstration. Learned something new. Thanks!
I knew all that but what I learned is the reference to Brown and Sharp as to keep track of which way the error goes. I did not like the technique because I got confused once the indicator spun around. I will give it a second chance by painting Red and White dots on the zeroing dial. Good job Pie.
Glad you got something out of it.
Joe I’m thinking a good video for you to do is on surface finish on manual lathe for some reason I think you are one of those guys who knows how to get as good a finish that can be obtained on any material. Those guys who only ran the lathes years ago that are gone now and Russian immigrants now that run only manual lathes crazy good surface finishes.
ua-cam.com/video/-mNH1ZLy-hk/v-deo.html This is a good place to start.
Excellent tutorial Joe, very detailed 👌.
Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
I made one a few years back, open frame, but not "open" enough to attach it from the side....thanks for the video..
Thanks Joe
Great video quick and simple 👍
Thanks, Verified I was using it correctly. Sure is a handy fixture.
It really is.
I actually prefer the nogas. but you should definitely learn to use one of these
Hey Joe Pie. Still here. Thanks for the note !!
I have two of those in my toolbox!
Thanks for all you do Joe !
My pleasure!
I wish I had all the time back I spent with a dial indicator and a mirror before I splurged for a co-ax indicator!
Bump it till you like it, that cracked me up😎
Sir, you are a master, so when I hear you say “unloosen”, I swallow it and move on. I won’t bust your balls about it, but it never stops hitting that grammar nerve! 😂
Yeah, but for the rest of us no Joe Pie video is complete until he says "unloosen".
@@bwyseymail Got me to thinking. Would “untighten” be the same as “loosen” ?
It's meant to hit the grammar nerve of those folks without a funny bone. It's an old joke, mate.
Before anyone's grammar nerves get too roughed up, grab a dictionary and look up the word. "Unloosen" is a well established word, and means the same thing as "loosen," exactly as Joe uses it.
@@g.tucker8682 🙂verb: "he unloosened the animals and they ran away." Thanks for making me go look, Mr Tucker! I'm gonna keep chuckling, though...
I have and use the same indicol on my 2 B.P.s and my Haas. I have recently switched to a coaxial and don't want to touch that indicol again for centering on a round hole.
Co-Axials are great but they’re awfully tall. That’s where the Indicol type holders really shine.
Agreed, they do add some height. On the Haas, i have a power Z axis with 16" or travel and have not ran into an issue with height yet. On the B.P. it does require a little arm workout to raise the knee after, or.... i typically lower the quill.
Thanks for the ver clear lesson 👍👍😊👍👍
Thanks Joe, there's another project for me 😊😊😊
The arms don't need to be overly complicated, but should work with the indicator you use most.
@@joepie221 that's my plan.
One indicator dedicated so that it's always central to the Spindle. Multiple articulation is good but after seeing this video, I can see the need for a device that stays true to its rotational centre. Joe, you are a genius 😁
Thanks, Joe!
I bought a Co-Ax indicator and found it wasn't really a lot of use as it takes way too much headroom to use.
I made the 'Indecol' style clamp piece to 'best guess' dimensions (basically 3 contact points with indicator on centre line) and found a low profile indicator holder so much more convenient.
Either buy or make the slip over clamp piece and you will stop using co-ax on anything below 5"~6" diameter, with different extension arms you wouldn't need a co-ax.
I just wish I had made one several years ago but wasn't aware of their existence until watching Joe Pie vids
I don't own or use them. Not saying they are not valuable, I just use my B&S for everything.
Thanks for sharing Joe. You’ve really been causing my bank account to dip lately! Gotta have one! Lol
Hi Guy. I hope your training went well. I'm still waiting on my drink coupons from that air pocket. :)
Another great shop gem from the magic bag of knowledge. Keep em coming we all are listening and watching.
Anything on coaxial indicating? I am always struggling with mine.
I don't own one Troy, but many swear by them.
@@joepie221 thanks Joe
Much appreciated,Joe.
Nice video. I recently bought one of those and it took me a while to workout how to attach the DTI to that 😆
Great advice, Joe! Hope you enjoyed the rain as much as I did...lol.
Nice! Really nice 👍👍😎
I made mine replacing the round bar with another flat bar so it is always pointing on center. In all my years I have never had a need of the ability to rotate the round bar.
Sweeping a machine head is a good example of when you might have to do it.
@@joepie221 Hmm, maybe, but I have a rigid indicator holder and bearing race for that... Even if I did use that feature, I only tram my head in once a month or so, while I use the indicator holder every day, so the feature really only slows down the most common of the tool.
Think i shall be making or buying one of these for my for my first mill purchase kondia fv-1 and and even has an additional horizontal mill head (not that either of us know how its meant to be installed or driven...well get there)
I have a Kondia Super MIll FV1 ... its a great bit of kit ... you will enjoy it ... good luck.
I love an Indicol. They're so damned handy. Mr. Pete made a video of how to cast the main body of one similar if anyone wants to go the route. Sorry to shill someone else's channel in your comments, Joe. But I didn't think you'd mind if it helps people do better work or save them time and money.
Don't worry, Joe is a fan of Mr. Pete (as are most of us)
@@bwyseymail Very true
Hey Joe, in trade school these were part of out tool kits and I use mine almost daily (although the Haas spindle probe has me a bit spoiled). Honestly this is a tool that is better bought than built if only to keep the guy who makes them in business. But I'm still a little confused. Our instructor demonstrated sweeping in a part with his Starrett indicator. He claimed the yellow half of the face was more accurate then the white side. I figured the two colored dial face made it easier to keep track of the pointer when reading with a mirror. What say you?
You are right. he must have been kidding with you.
Yes it is a help! Thank ya sir!
Good job. Keep up the good work.
I bought one from Edge Technology and so far it seems to be pretty good, $50.00 on their web site. I also used one of your links and bought the Vision Aid, it helps a lot when your vision isn't what it was 20 years ago.
I've seen theirs. Nice. Then again, I haven't seen a product from them that wasn't well made.