I am turning 18 in a few months. I know these videos are probably not needed just yet, but I realise that there are so many people like Ash on UA-cam just ready to help me with my style and life. Thank you.
We should remember that the modern suit is more correctly called a Lounge Suit. When it first became popular it was considered daringly informal; probably the equivalent of today’s tee-shirt and jeans. Wearing such a garment prior to, say, WW-1 would have shocked the ladies and frightened the horses!
I bought my first suit from burtons for my wedding. I still have it and it still fits got to open the top button on the pants but i only really wore it for the big day.35year back.cant throw it out.now my wardrobe is full of quality .
I agree regarding trainers or sneakers. The term “dress sneakers” is an oxymoron. As for neckties, wearing one is my little act of “rebellion.” I like ties.
Ash, I'm 38, so a touch younger than yourself... When I used to go into the city of a Friday or Saturday evening, getting into a pub or club required shoes, trousers and a collared shirt / polo. Now you see 'lads' in tracksuits and trainers. I love watching episodes of Only Fools and Horses. Working class men going to the pub in a suit. May not have a lot of money, but you make an effort!
Indeed! Sadly, most people now dress in that awful manner. Although I do not live in the UK (I am Italian), I watch many videos about England and was shocked by how scruffy most people look, even in some very expensive residential areas of London. It is disgraceful because: A) There is no excuse to be so badly dressed B) It is NOT a question of money; all my life (I am 60) I was poorly paid and yet I managed to put together a small but beautiful wardrobe that has earned me many compliments. C) Last but not least, England´s glorious sartorial history and tradition. PS: I love "Only Fools and Horses" What a fantastic actor David Jason is!
@@arslongavitabrevis5136 agree with everything you say Sir. You even see our police officers in poorly fitting hiviz and hiking gear. I love visiting Italy and the polizia and Carabinieri look impeccable
(1) fit is king; quality is queen. No bespoke tailor uses polyester. But a bespoke suit in 10oz super 100’s beats an off-the-peg suit in LP cashmere every single day. (2) Grays and blues are the way to go. Pin/chalk stripes, herringbone, POW check, glen check, etc. provide more than sufficient opportunity for self-expression. The remainder is correct.
Not sure I understand the obsession with bespoke. I have fairly basic taste and measurements so if I can get a better quality suit for the same price that's what I'll do.
@daniel. If you’re one of the very few whose body type aligns with the block pattern and silhouette used by off-the-peg producers, then [insert deity] bless you. You’re truly lucky and yes…for you, cloth quality will be the most important aspect.
I really enjoyed this particular episode of The Chap's Guide. It resonated deeply with me, not least because it mirrors my own thoughts on style but also, when you alluded to your time in the Royal Air Force. I too joined the RAF as a young man (18yr old) in the early 80's and ethos of military life has remained with me to this day 60yr old. I could go on for hours but just wanted to say thank you not just for this episode but for the all the others and for starting this channel.
I agree. All other important points to regard, hang off quality. Quality is No 1…. My grandfather taught me “ quality remains.. long after the price is forgotten “.
Ash, that suit you have on, is eye catching. It also gives off the kind of presentation quality that would make one think you also have a Rolls Royce, parked just out of camera view. 😮
Your suit looks more on the Blue Grey side on my computer screen. Whatever the colour it looks good. Thanks for the advice. Second hand suits are hard to come by in my area as no one wears suits. Lots of Second-Hand stores that have miles of women's clothes but men's clothes are hard to find and what is available is usually all pretty-drab and even a good clean would do little to add to their wearable value. I search the Men's stores looking for bargains.
1986! I think I was traversing the English Channel that July from France to visit my ancestral land. I was just 12 or 13. My first suit was about early high school.
Nice video sir ! Catching up with your last few vids post a rather wet day in la Rochell ! A rather sad sight that I see more often than I'm comfortable with is a "no longer young man "with a too tight suit those "silly tight trousers "&just when you think you have seen it all no socks !! You are excelling yourself of late with your content sir 😊😊😊
Great video. My first suit, bought on sale in a good men's store in New York City, was a dark blue (not navy) tweed herringbone three piece. Looked fantastic. Still my favorite, though it wore out decades ago (I am 81 and bought the suit at age 19). Wool, of course. For a time there were permanent press shirts which had a small amount of polyester. Worked well and the small amount of polyester did not affect the appearance. Your green suit seems to work well, though I would not go with a bolder green. Brown was more common in the fifties (my father ALWAYS wore brown suits and nothing else) and looked good. I had a medium brown pin stripe that was elegant. Enjoyed the video.
Green suits are such a delicate prospect! It's a colour I'm told I wear well in many shades, but when applied to a suit it can very easily become strangely off-kilter. My theory is that it's a result of the human eye being able to distinguish more shades of green than any other colour- therefore I think whilst other colours create a monochrome effect in a suit, the large area of green allows for too much distraction in its range of hues and shades as light falls upon many angles of tailored garments. That, or I just cant pull it off haha. My linen green has only seen the day once this summer... But my greenish to turquoise number sees a lot more use, despite being a more unusual colour on paper. All that said, Our Man On UA-cam easily holds his own over the piece he's wearing today. I think the strong navy and red in the tie really help, as does his complexion. I am a little more swarthy in the Cornish sense :) Many thanks for your comment sir- I would love to hear more about this tailors shop and what led you to them. Have a good day Edit: oh, and I *love* brown as a fabric. Do you live in the Americas?
That's a great option, because you will hardly ever feel overdressed, which can happen with a suit. It's unfortunate, and one shouldn't feel that way, but with ripped jeans, trainers and hoodies bring the new dress code... It's good to be rebellious with suit and tie, but occasionally you have to tone it down with more casual trousers and a sport jacket. Not the prevailing "nonconformists' uniform", but not too passive aggressive either.
Good Video. I started wearing neckties more often, in rebellion, after noticing how neckties have seem to gone extinct among men these days. After seeing your "am I a chap vintage edition" video, I went on Revival Vintage and ordered the red tropical tie. It looks better in reality than on the website's pictures.
I couldn't agree more on the brown suit Ash. I had a brown Hugo Boss suit a few years back in dark brown, it looked great on far better than the countless blue and grey i have owned over the years. I only bought it as it was reduced in the sales. I felt hesitant as i don't really see anyone in a dark brown suit i thought i might feel self conscious wearing it. Loved it as soon as i put it on, absolutely baffles me why nobody wears that colour. You mention not being able to find one in marks & spencer, going back ten years you probably could they had a great selection and used to be top quality, probably the best of the rack suits you'd find in the uk. Real shame now because the selection and variety is pretty small, probably due to the decreasing popularity of suits.
Totally agree Ash. I love wearing ties and have a lot! Summer in Tokyo has become much hotter so my go to on those days is to wear my custom white shirts with a Cooper Collar, which rid
Excellent comments, Ash. One of my favourite suits is a brown tweed affair originally tailored in the '60's. I must confess some of your comments were very amusing especially re skinny suits/outlandish fashion.
Spot on in regards to pre-owned route. It’s a mindset; more of a quest than just shopping. The very best coats and sport jackets I own were discovered in charity shops. It’s a great bit of fun.
That is a sharp looking suit Ash. The cuff links, watch, tie and pocket square compliment it very nicely. The check opens up many options for different shirt colours which will consequently provide almost unlimited tie and pocket square options. You wear it well sir.
fort Belvedere is the only brand I find for a versatile boutonnières not too formal & definitely not a cheaply made one. Agree with most you said. My important ones to note is keep 1 either a lapel pin or pocket on a jacket to not clash with each other, recommend having a tie with a full suit but I can forgive a blazer & odd trouser combo since that is considered less formal. If going tieless have a lapel pin or pocket square to even things. Most important of all know the dress code of the event your going to either it’s formal or casual.
Wearing a bow tie when everyone else is wearing a tie is a perfectly acceptable way of standing out in a suit. Most people just don’t ever wear a bow tie. I only learned how to tie one this last year, after my daughter got me one for Father’s Day.
Ash great advice as usual. I personally have a nice brown suit. I purchased it about 30 years ago. I am guilty of not wearing a tie.😢 I really need to step up my game. Also looking into wearing a cravat (ascot) more as well. I never liked nor understood the skinny fit. Cheers Ron
Re - colour, I invested in a quality suit but due to the cost I felt it had to cover a lot of bases. Weddings , funerals any posh function I may be invited to…….kind of leads you down the blue/grey road.
Keep it simple is a great tip. This is another useful video. One more tip. Always check the armhole, which if it is oversized no tailor in the world can alter for you. Many times I have kept an off the rack jacket back after eagerly examining it because the armhole is too wide.
💯 Ash, quality fabric counts! An example I live in South Texas where it’s very hot and humid. I can wear a custom double breasted Worsted Wool Suit to dinner in the summer months and still be somewhat comfortable in the heat. Flip side , I wear a polo and trousers with an off the rack store bought Poly-Rayon single breasted Jacket and be sweating heavy and be very uncomfortable. Fabrics definitely matter and synthetic fabrics feel terrible.
Excellent advice, Ash. I love brown and is the predominant colour in my wardrobe, funnily enough, I am currently making myself a nice light brown flannel suit for the winter. To use that old phrase K.I.S.S when accesroising is key. I always use a pocket square I feel undressed without one, for me ties are optional to a point when wearing odd jackets and trousers though always with a suit, unless it is 40c in the shade then I might forego the tie. Talking of wearing odd jackets and trousers, a great way to build a sartorially elegant wardrobe is to go the capsule route not only does it give one more combination, added to this if one is wearing a well put together broken suit I bet they'll still be one of the smartest people in the room. With fewer garments, it is then more attainable to buy higher quality Items, whether from a good vintage marketplace, or new from RTW, MTM, or even bespoke. If one can find them I definitely think buying vintage overcoats is an excellent choice. I buy a lot of my shoes and shirts pre-owned.
I was late to the suit game. Although I had acquired two sports jackets in my 40s, I didn’t buy my first real suit until I was 55 years old. Unfortunately I got quite a cheap black suit that probably didn’t fit very well. In the past couple years I have made an attempt to start dressing better overall and began watching UA-cam channels like this one. As a result, I have a much better idea of what I should be doing. About 4 months ago, I bought a good Brooks Brothers mid-grey suit that I found at their factory outlet store (I live in Canada) for a nice price. It looks great. I find myself looking for opportunities to wear it, which, unfortunately, are rare. I hope to add another suit sometime in the future.
You don’t need occasions to wear a suit. I often work from home, and will wear a suit, just to remind myself that I am a professional. Helps remind the family to stay out of my office too😆
Hi Ash, Thank you for this great video. My nstural built with big calves and thighs prohibit me from wearing slim fit pants. I am thankful for it. I am thinking about getting a MTM or bespoke suit in 2025. You planted the seed on my mind that brown is a color to investigate in.
Thank you for the advice Mr. Jones. Such advice is very important at present when standards have slipped and people mix formal with casual and looking ridiculous as a result.
Mostly my suit are navy blue and grey brown my closet but mostly my suit made from flannel wool or slik and wool mix suit and mostly my shoes are tassels loafers and wig tip loafers
Great tips... First suit was from Mister Byrite in oxford street.. Possibly worse than your Burton :-) .. Right on with the skinny fit comment.. super tight trousers with huge trainers or pointed shoes is not a look great (in my opinion)
Ebay has a lot of hardly worn high quality garments, particularly blazers. The good sellers give measurements that you can compare to things you already own and, as Ash points out, you can have it altered.
This was pleasant and inspiring. Have you ever watched Gentlemen’s Gazette? They go far with trousers and bow ties. I think it is a hobby sort of thing though. Your advice is more sobering though. I advise you to check their channel out however. Tell us what you think, if appropriate.
In general Sartorial classic menswear will always be the best for generations and I always pair all my Attire with certain hats including the Royal deluxe stetson open road hat as you may know Winston favored that hat pursuit of his passion for oil paintings Ash
I used to wear suits everyday for work. I tend to not wear them so much these days - I prefer a tweed jacket or blue blazer, chinos, shirt and tie and good brogues. But, I do wear my suits for certain business events, and special occasions. I have 3-4 - all good quality suits, and generally plaid. I used to like a navy blue suit, but they’ve become a bit too ubiquitous. And I always wear a tie with a suit - I used to go open shirt, but I find that approach too casual these days.
The trend for the longest time has been low rise trousers and slimmer lapels on suits. Along with your skinny fit comment, these aspects are worth avoiding appearing dated and unflattering. High rise trousers are far more flattering as they elongate the proportions of leg to torso. They are also far more comfortable to wear. A decent width lapel also compliments and accentuates mens shoulders. Finally, a minimal break on the trouser looks timeless and classy ( no ankles on show or billowing fabric around the shoe).
Hi Ash. My first suit I bought from John Colliers in the early 1970s. It was chocolate brown pinstripe with the stripes being of two thicknesses. It had obviously flared trousers and was a three piece suit. It was hideous but I thought I was the bee’s knees😂😂. I now have two suits. One of them, the fabric is by Abraham Moon and the other by Bateman Ogden. One is a three piece green overcheck tweed that I’ve nicknamed my Lord Ashfordly suit because when I saw that character on Heartbeat, I wanted a suit like it😁. The other suit, if I remember correctly, is the one made from fabric by Abraham Moon and is a two piece tan and brown check a bit like a Prince of Wales check. The Bookster green tweed is quite thick tweed cloth (but smooth beautiful quality). It’s the most I’ve ever spent on a suit, but well worth it. It doesn’t half turn heads!
Suit Supply and Harvie & Hudson (during the sales) cover you in every aspect. Fabrics from Vitale Barberis Canonico and excellent cuts from £380 (Suit Supply). Heavier British fabrics at Harvie & Hudson as well as beautiful linens. These two make suits that last a lifetime so price/wear is phenomenally unbeatable value.
At one time, Burton's employed 12,000 people in Leeds and had a tailoring arm. Their canteen sat 7,000. Pre 1980 they make some fine clothes with excellent cloth
Great vid as usual! However I've noticed that your tie's stripes are slanted from your right to your left rather than from 'heart to sword' (if I'm not mistaken) as I think the British regiment ties are supposed to flow? I'm I wrong, please explain.
"I really enjoyed the video, especially the point about wearing different colored suits. I own a mid and dark green suit, a dark purple, and a maroon one. My navy and charcoal suits have bold chalk stripes, so they all stand out without looking too flashy. However, I do disagree with your opinion on ties. Personally, I find them hot and restricting, and I’ve been wearing suits without ties for years. With a strong collar, a suit can look just as sharp without one, and no one has ever told me I’d look better with a tie. Keep up the great content!"
Maybe your shirts are one size too small? They shouldn't be restricting with the top button closed. If you are in a situation where have to (or are expected to) wear a tie: try to leave the top button of the shirt unbottened, under the tie knot. Hardly anybody will notice (and nobody will care anyway), and you will still be comfortable.
At 18 in 1972 I had a brown velvet suit that I bought from the Village shop in Soho`s Brewer Street. Oh yeah I was the man. Ive only got two suits now, and i`d love another one; a two tone one: blue and silver.
3:40 - Quality is King 7:00 - Colour is your friend 10:09 - Footwear does matter 12:50 - Say yes to the tie 14:46 - Be frugal with your accessories 16:34 - Buy the correct size 18:32 - Be Conservative! (in the way you dress) ; )
I love different coloured & patterned suits. In addition to my bog standard navy and grey suits, I have a red and navy blue puppy-tooth pattern, a mauve with a purple check pattern, a forest green with black check and a mid brown with a blue and red check. All of them are 3 button single breasted. I also have a linin/silk mix mottled green double breasted summer suit and a double breasted white summer suit. I wear them all regularly and frequently receive positive comments.
Burton still alive and still flowing in polyester. I just had to check. ;-) I got my first suit at maybe 12 years old. My father, at the time a fishing man in Iceland, sailed his trawler full of fish to England. Brought back a suit for me. An English gentleman style. My mother wasn't pleased, she wanted something more late 80s trendy. I loved it. Just a pity there is not a single picture available of me in it. But all these years later I admit it is a challenge to wear a suit everyday, or even once in a while without a special occasion.
Thanks for the great advice. One quick one: I am invited to a wedding next month. The wedding is scheduled for 4:00 PM. I own an English made morning suit which I was considering wearing, even past the noon hour. If that's too over the top, I could go with a tuxedo. If that's still too much, I could go with a very dark or navy suit. Which of these would you select?
i dont think we shoud shoot down the bowtie with the suit,i dont personally have one but i think if chosen correctly they can be pretty sharp exspecially if you want to wear yout suit more relaxed way.And i think that bowtie work better than tie whit some faceshapes.
I will set this question aside for one of my future Q & A videos, if that is OK with you sir, as I think it merits a much fuller response than can be added to a video comment.
Pretty good vid Ash, maybe a bit strict for me, but them's the rules. Bloody Italians can keep their sprezzatura! 😉 When wesring a three piece, always wear braces rather than a belt if needed. Having a waist band, jacket, shirt and waistcoat meeting at the waist with a belt too? Way too much happening. Never wear matching tie and pocket square. A pocket square should ideally compliment the colours of shirt and tie, maybe contain elements of their colours in lesser amounts and/or different tones, but not match. Looks like it came straight off the shelf, or your mum bought them for you. Belt and shoes should match colour, shade and material too, though when more casual this is one I'd slighty stray from on occasion. If the belt is sympathetic to the suit, it's a bit more subdued and subtle, and your shoes are excellent, do it! I'm not a full suit wearer often, but I would go slightly more casual in my rules personally when not in a formal environment. I would wear more or varied accessories, lapel accessories and scarves work for me, but using more than three is risky for sure. Mixing and matching suits is great to change up a look too. A borrowed waistcoat can really look fantastic when matched either sympathetically or to clash. A light coloured summer suit with bold waistcoat can be a real winner, as can a brown tweed suit with another earth tone beneath.
Very good, I agree om most of the sentiments (except on buying second hand, in relation to moth concerns, etc.). Nice RAF tie but why have the stripes pointing downwards, American style? I received my first proper suit at age 13, as a lovely gift from my mother. It was a very nice navy SB two piece notch lapeled needlecord corduroy suit. I now have many suits, 8 of them original from the 60s and early 70s, inherited from my father. I also have quite a few new suits, including one brown 3-piece suit in whipcord. It is good for suburbia. However, I mostly wear navy club blazers with grey flannel trousers, cavalry twills or chinos in various colours (white, cream, sage, etc.). I mostly buy stock service and on a few occasions MTM (with mixed results), but not yet bespoke... The ultimate dream scenario would be to have Terry Haste make me a few suits, dinner and smoking jackets, blazers and odd jackets. 😇
Another route to take is to buy cloth in London and have it tailored in India like I do. My go to place for ready made suits is Moss Brothers. Good quality with affordability 👍🏼
How do you do that? Do you travel to India? I had some suits made by an Indian tailoring company when I lived in Muscat, Oman. They had a branch there (Raymond’s - don’t know if they are still there) and the suits they made for me were excellent. That was years ago, though.
@@petereastwood7868 I live in India but visit Lindon since my kid studies there. Tailoring is very expensive in London. I paid for alterations what I would have paid for tailoring two suits in India. Raymond’s is very good indeed .
I agree with you that pure natural substances are best. There is grace and elegance is a pure woollen suit. But the problem is that everything one can buy off the shelf these days is polyester. The best you can get, and that too at horrific prices, is polyester blends. Pure wool suits have become niche items that can be afforded only by the very rich. What should one do in these circumstances?
I found a good second hand online shop here in Germany (the physical shops simply can't match - yet? - the selection and quality). For years now, the only new clothing items I buy are underwear and socks. Pay 20 Euros for a suit, maybe have it tailored to fit, for €80, add 7 Euros each for a shirt and a pair of shoes, and you look great while being the opposite of very rich. What astonishes me about second hand (I was very reluctant at first to go down that route, and walked around in cheaply made plastic clothing as a result): the stuff looks brand new, like it had never been worn. Maybe factory surplus, or last season's collection that wasn't sold by some large retailer? The mysteries of today's fashion business... to our advantage.
Light-colored leather shoes with a light-colored similar-toned suit? Similarly, loafers without socks. I am not a fan. I seem to remember keeping the leather items similarly colored. Brown belt, watch band, shoes. Same with black leather. Maybe oxblood or cordaban.
I don't have a huge amount of cash (& neither does anyone I know). . . I'll say "Well done, Sir" if I see a young guy who thinks he looks great . . they're trying to look good in a suit, personally I believe it'll be an encouragement for them to dress more "classically" I'm (IMO) dapper & often get complimented by younger people who wished they could "have the guts" to look different
Just buy Drakes ties. I wasted more money than I care to admit on the Italian design houses ties, and I rotate/wear the 6 Drake's ties I have in my collection. It seems strange, but Drake's just mastered ties in the normal/highish price point. They are perfect neck ties.
@@TheChapsGuide I really like Brook Taverner. Both my single breasted navy blazer and my double breasted navy blazers are by them. Beautiful blazers that always turn heads and get compliments from both gentlemen and ladies. I went to Glasgow (love the Glasgow people) recently and wore my Panama hat with my single breasted blazer and tan wool/silk trousers and Burgundy brogues.
Ash, I would be interested to hear your opinion on gentlemen's outfitters today, as there have been quite a few which have gone out of business or they have been sold to "venture capital", like Dunn & Co., Heben Cord, Austin Reed, Burton, Crombie, Aquascutum, Debenhams. And I don't mean internet addresses, but are there still any reputable, good old fashioned physical stores around?
I will set this question aside for one of my future Q & A videos, if that is OK with you sir, as I think it merits a much fuller response than can be added to a video comment.
Unfortunately it comes down to the belief these days that suits aren’t meant to be comfortable. People aren’t aware of the fact that suits, if cut properly and made out of fabrics designed for the local environment, can be very comfortable to wear.
I bought 3 suits in the space of 5 years, off the peg and the fit was terrible, i must have a odd body shape, barrel chested (about 48 inches) but with relatively slender shoulders and slightly below average arm length, all my friends who are about my height at 6ft, their arms are a number of inches longer. I order a 44 Short and its tight over the chest but as much as 3 inches hanging over my shoulder and the arm length dragging way down near the knuckles. The other a 46 short, well, those stock pictures of kids wearing their dads clothes, completely swamped. I decided that the next suit would be a made to measure (After a bit of online research I decided on Hockerty), a £250 pound grey twill one at first, my initial measurements were slightly off, the shoulders were still too long by an inch, as well as the arm length by the same amount, everything else was just right, nothing my local tailor couldn't fix (as well as adjusted my online profile). Now the suit looks a million bucks, I can't believe I kept buying off the peg for so long with fits thats quite simply depressing. When i'm ready, i'm willing to splash out for better materials and maybe buy a Navy Wool suit and maybe a Dinner jacket.
Yes, not only that most people don´t wear suits nowadays, but those ones, who do, wear this typical grey, navy or even worse black with no patterns at all. Of course it is still much better, than fast fashion and the world would be again much nicer place, if most people started to wear something more ellegant, but also those typical suits are boring and really old concept, that need some change. There are many variations, that are much better. For example navy with light blue chalk stripes, red stripes. Many variations of grey with colorful windowpanes etc... And how about suits in burgundy color, cream color again with some pastel stripes. There are ton of fabrics on the market and people still choose the same stuff. No imagination at all, right? I am not saying, that classic boring suits are always bad. They are not and are very universal, but are not ideal to be worn all the times. I would prefer them to a classic restaurant at night time, when the atmosphere is relaxing and muted colors match the venue, but for example during a day, when the sun is shining, more colorful suits or sport jackets are the way to go to support the overall mood. One of the best dressed men in the world, who understands that is Dandy Wellington. He sports green, red, purple jackets and other great things like spectator shoes. He is a great example of how the suits should be percieved. Not only this corporate boring thing, but also funny stuff, that makes you feel great and you don´t look like coming from an office.
This yank, who spent years in suits, noticed one thing that never changed-good taste and conservative style. Fashions come and go and are a huge waste of money. Be mindful of the basics; match belt and shoes; wear an undershirt; for god’s sake wear socks and polished shoes! Lastly, proper collars for your weight. Nice vid sir!!
Maybe you have better luck finding matching pants and jackets that fit used than I ever will. My first suit was polyester thing when I was 10 or so that still fit for a couple years but didn't see much use. Hit and miss since then because same waist size issues and mostly go with sport jackets or leather ones instead since more trouser options that work for out on the town.
The wool suits I’ve bought weren’t hard wearing. Only Had about half a dozen wears before the trousers wore and developed holes. The replacement trousers did the same. What am I doing wrong? I’ve actually found cheaper suits to be much harder wearing.
I am turning 18 in a few months. I know these videos are probably not needed just yet, but I realise that there are so many people like Ash on UA-cam just ready to help me with my style and life. Thank you.
I love my bow ties. The navy blue with white polka dots is a classic.
Nutcrusher trousers are now an official part of my language. Thank you.
Unfortunately it's increasingly difficult to find anything that isn't 'nutcrushing'....
We should remember that the modern suit is more correctly called a Lounge Suit. When it first became popular it was considered daringly informal; probably the equivalent of today’s tee-shirt and jeans. Wearing such a garment prior to, say, WW-1 would have shocked the ladies and frightened the horses!
Ash - an interesting video. I would suggest a video on how to maintain a suit and good shoes. Thanks.
I miss being a size 32. I'm a 34 now but it helps give me a fuller look somewhat.
Fantastic video; one of Ash's finest. Regarding accessories, remember: "Less is more".
I bought my first suit from burtons for my wedding. I still have it and it still fits got to open the top button on the pants but i only really wore it for the big day.35year back.cant throw it out.now my wardrobe is full of quality .
I agree regarding trainers or sneakers. The term “dress sneakers” is an oxymoron. As for neckties, wearing one is my little act of “rebellion.” I like ties.
Ash, I'm 38, so a touch younger than yourself...
When I used to go into the city of a Friday or Saturday evening, getting into a pub or club required shoes, trousers and a collared shirt / polo. Now you see 'lads' in tracksuits and trainers.
I love watching episodes of Only Fools and Horses. Working class men going to the pub in a suit. May not have a lot of money, but you make an effort!
Indeed! Sadly, most people now dress in that awful manner. Although I do not live in the UK (I am Italian), I watch many videos about England and was shocked by how scruffy most people look, even in some very expensive residential areas of London. It is disgraceful because: A) There is no excuse to be so badly dressed B) It is NOT a question of money; all my life (I am 60) I was poorly paid and yet I managed to put together a small but beautiful wardrobe that has earned me many compliments. C) Last but not least, England´s glorious sartorial history and tradition.
PS: I love "Only Fools and Horses" What a fantastic actor David Jason is!
@@arslongavitabrevis5136 agree with everything you say Sir.
You even see our police officers in poorly fitting hiviz and hiking gear.
I love visiting Italy and the polizia and Carabinieri look impeccable
(1) fit is king; quality is queen. No bespoke tailor uses polyester. But a bespoke suit in 10oz super 100’s beats an off-the-peg suit in LP cashmere every single day. (2) Grays and blues are the way to go. Pin/chalk stripes, herringbone, POW check, glen check, etc. provide more than sufficient opportunity for self-expression. The remainder is correct.
Gingham is underrated for sportscoats.
Always Super 100’s nothing else.
Your point 2) spot on
Not sure I understand the obsession with bespoke. I have fairly basic taste and measurements so if I can get a better quality suit for the same price that's what I'll do.
@ugluck. We’re taking about suits, not separates. For separates, you’re spot on. Much more versatility with cloth and pattern.
@daniel. If you’re one of the very few whose body type aligns with the block pattern and silhouette used by off-the-peg producers, then [insert deity] bless you. You’re truly lucky and yes…for you, cloth quality will be the most important aspect.
I really enjoyed this particular episode of The Chap's Guide. It resonated deeply with me, not least because it mirrors my own thoughts on style but also, when you alluded to your time in the Royal Air Force. I too joined the RAF as a young man (18yr old) in the early 80's and ethos of military life has remained with me to this day 60yr old. I could go on for hours but just wanted to say thank you not just for this episode but for the all the others and for starting this channel.
I agree. All other important points to regard, hang off quality. Quality is No 1…. My grandfather taught me “ quality remains.. long after the price is forgotten “.
Agree, simplicity is the key❤
Ash, that suit you have on, is eye catching. It also gives off the kind of presentation quality that would make one think you also have a Rolls Royce, parked just out of camera view. 😮
I agree! Ash is the unofficial ambassador of British elegance! 😁😁
possibly THE best approach in UA-cam to what class … really is finding for your wardrobe..
Your suit looks more on the Blue Grey side on my computer screen. Whatever the colour it looks good. Thanks for the advice. Second hand suits are hard to come by in my area as no one wears suits. Lots of Second-Hand stores that have miles of women's clothes but men's clothes are hard to find and what is available is usually all pretty-drab and even a good clean would do little to add to their wearable value. I search the Men's stores looking for bargains.
1986! I think I was traversing the English Channel that July from France to visit my ancestral land. I was just 12 or 13.
My first suit was about early high school.
We don’t always agree but I thoroughly enjoy your content. Cheers 🍻
Great advice regarding suits! Totally agree suits are a weapon in todays market place
Hats off Ash, great color combo you are wearing on this video!
Nice video sir !
Catching up with your last few vids post a rather wet day in la Rochell !
A rather sad sight that I see more often than I'm comfortable with is a "no longer young man "with a too tight suit those "silly tight trousers "&just when you think you have seen it all no socks !!
You are excelling yourself of late with your content sir 😊😊😊
Thanks 👍
Great video. My first suit, bought on sale in a good men's store in New York City, was a dark blue (not navy) tweed herringbone three piece. Looked fantastic. Still my favorite, though it wore out decades ago (I am 81 and bought the suit at age 19). Wool, of course.
For a time there were permanent press shirts which had a small amount of polyester. Worked well and the small amount of polyester did not affect the appearance.
Your green suit seems to work well, though I would not go with a bolder green. Brown was more common in the fifties (my father ALWAYS wore brown suits and nothing else) and looked good. I had a medium brown pin stripe that was elegant.
Enjoyed the video.
Green suits are such a delicate prospect! It's a colour I'm told I wear well in many shades, but when applied to a suit it can very easily become strangely off-kilter.
My theory is that it's a result of the human eye being able to distinguish more shades of green than any other colour- therefore I think whilst other colours create a monochrome effect in a suit, the large area of green allows for too much distraction in its range of hues and shades as light falls upon many angles of tailored garments.
That, or I just cant pull it off haha. My linen green has only seen the day once this summer... But my greenish to turquoise number sees a lot more use, despite being a more unusual colour on paper.
All that said, Our Man On UA-cam easily holds his own over the piece he's wearing today. I think the strong navy and red in the tie really help, as does his complexion. I am a little more swarthy in the Cornish sense :)
Many thanks for your comment sir- I would love to hear more about this tailors shop and what led you to them. Have a good day
Edit: oh, and I *love* brown as a fabric. Do you live in the Americas?
Great video! That's why I believe the sport/jacket blazer option is the way to go. It offers so many more style options.
That's a great option, because you will hardly ever feel overdressed, which can happen with a suit. It's unfortunate, and one shouldn't feel that way, but with ripped jeans, trainers and hoodies bring the new dress code... It's good to be rebellious with suit and tie, but occasionally you have to tone it down with more casual trousers and a sport jacket. Not the prevailing "nonconformists' uniform", but not too passive aggressive either.
Good Video.
I started wearing neckties more often, in rebellion, after noticing how neckties have seem to gone extinct among men these days.
After seeing your "am I a chap vintage edition" video, I went on Revival Vintage and ordered the red tropical tie.
It looks better in reality than on the website's pictures.
I couldn't agree more on the brown suit Ash. I had a brown Hugo Boss suit a few years back in dark brown, it looked great on far better than the countless blue and grey i have owned over the years. I only bought it as it was reduced in the sales. I felt hesitant as i don't really see anyone in a dark brown suit i thought i might feel self conscious wearing it. Loved it as soon as i put it on, absolutely baffles me why nobody wears that colour. You mention not being able to find one in marks & spencer, going back ten years you probably could they had a great selection and used to be top quality, probably the best of the rack suits you'd find in the uk. Real shame now because the selection and variety is pretty small, probably due to the decreasing popularity of suits.
Totally agree Ash. I love wearing ties and have a lot! Summer in Tokyo has become much hotter so my go to on those days is to wear my custom white shirts with a Cooper Collar, which rid
Excellent comments, Ash. One of my favourite suits is a brown tweed affair originally tailored in the '60's. I must confess some of your comments were very amusing especially re skinny suits/outlandish fashion.
Another splendid video with valuable advice. Esp. on the topic of skinny clothing.
I was not prepared for @17:50
I think nobody was. 😂
Ash, you are on fire in this one! Hear, hear!
Spot on in regards to pre-owned route. It’s a mindset; more of a quest than just shopping. The very best coats and sport jackets I own were discovered in charity shops. It’s a great bit of fun.
Love your tie Ash.
RAF tie.
@@TheChapsGuide have ordered some lovely wool ties made is Scotland. Will have them by Christmas. Nothing as unique as your RAF one though.
@@TheChapsGuide 👍👍Always break mine out for weddings -- people who know know and you usually get some good conversation out of it
That is a sharp looking suit Ash. The cuff links, watch, tie and pocket square compliment it very nicely. The check opens up many options for different shirt colours which will consequently provide almost unlimited tie and pocket square options. You wear it well sir.
fort Belvedere is the only brand I find for a versatile boutonnières not too formal & definitely not a cheaply made one. Agree with most you said. My important ones to note is keep 1 either a lapel pin or pocket on a jacket to not clash with each other, recommend having a tie with a full suit but I can forgive a blazer & odd trouser combo since that is considered less formal. If going tieless have a lapel pin or pocket square to even things. Most important of all know the dress code of the event your going to either it’s formal or casual.
Wearing a bow tie when everyone else is wearing a tie is a perfectly acceptable way of standing out in a suit. Most people just don’t ever wear a bow tie. I only learned how to tie one this last year, after my daughter got me one for Father’s Day.
Ash great advice as usual. I personally have a nice brown suit. I purchased it about 30 years ago. I am guilty of not wearing a tie.😢 I really need to step up my game. Also looking into wearing a cravat (ascot) more as well. I never liked nor understood the skinny fit. Cheers Ron
Re - colour, I invested in a quality suit but due to the cost I felt it had to cover a lot of bases. Weddings , funerals any posh function I may be invited to…….kind of leads you down the blue/grey road.
Great episode, Ash. I was shocked when you said you were wearing a green suit, though. It sure looked blue to me.
Hello Ash; thank you for this comprehensive and enjoyable presentation. BTW: That colour "suits" you.
Keep it simple is a great tip. This is another useful video. One more tip. Always check the armhole, which if it is oversized no tailor in the world can alter for you. Many times I have kept an off the rack jacket back after eagerly examining it because the armhole is too wide.
💯 Ash, quality fabric counts! An example I live in South Texas where it’s very hot and humid. I can wear a custom double breasted Worsted Wool Suit to dinner in the summer months and still be somewhat comfortable in the heat. Flip side , I wear a polo and trousers with an off the rack store bought Poly-Rayon single breasted Jacket and be sweating heavy and be very uncomfortable. Fabrics definitely matter and synthetic fabrics feel terrible.
Excellent advice, Ash. I love brown and is the predominant colour in my wardrobe, funnily enough, I am currently making myself a nice light brown flannel suit for the winter. To use that old phrase K.I.S.S when accesroising is key. I always use a pocket square I feel undressed without one, for me ties are optional to a point when wearing odd jackets and trousers though always with a suit, unless it is 40c in the shade then I might forego the tie. Talking of wearing odd jackets and trousers, a great way to build a sartorially elegant wardrobe is to go the capsule route not only does it give one more combination, added to this if one is wearing a well put together broken suit I bet they'll still be one of the smartest people in the room. With fewer garments, it is then more attainable to buy higher quality Items, whether from a good vintage marketplace, or new from RTW, MTM, or even bespoke. If one can find them I definitely think buying vintage overcoats is an excellent choice. I buy a lot of my shoes and shirts pre-owned.
I was late to the suit game. Although I had acquired two sports jackets in my 40s, I didn’t buy my first real suit until I was 55 years old. Unfortunately I got quite a cheap black suit that probably didn’t fit very well.
In the past couple years I have made an attempt to start dressing better overall and began watching UA-cam channels like this one. As a result, I have a much better idea of what I should be doing. About 4 months ago, I bought a good Brooks Brothers mid-grey suit that I found at their factory outlet store (I live in Canada) for a nice price. It looks great. I find myself looking for opportunities to wear it, which, unfortunately, are rare. I hope to add another suit sometime in the future.
You don’t need occasions to wear a suit. I often work from home, and will wear a suit, just to remind myself that I am a professional. Helps remind the family to stay out of my office too😆
You look v smart, but I would say it's a blue suit not green, I could be colour blind however
Hi Ash, Thank you for this great video.
My nstural built with big calves and thighs prohibit me from wearing slim fit pants. I am thankful for it.
I am thinking about getting a MTM or bespoke suit in 2025. You planted the seed on my mind that brown is a color to investigate in.
Thank you for the advice Mr. Jones. Such advice is very important at present when standards have slipped and people mix formal with casual and looking ridiculous as a result.
Hello Ash, thanks for all your good videos, you do a very nice work, please keep on!
Mostly my suit are navy blue and grey brown my closet but mostly my suit made from flannel wool or slik and wool mix suit and mostly my shoes are tassels loafers and wig tip loafers
Great tips... First suit was from Mister Byrite in oxford street.. Possibly worse than your Burton :-) .. Right on with the skinny fit comment.. super tight trousers with huge trainers or pointed shoes is not a look great (in my opinion)
I seen various patterns and colours in a shop at a McArthur glen outlet centre.
Ebay has a lot of hardly worn high quality garments, particularly blazers. The good sellers give measurements that you can compare to things you already own and, as Ash points out, you can have it altered.
I was just in Johnston and Murphy and they had a brown sport coat that looked good.
This was pleasant and inspiring. Have you ever watched Gentlemen’s Gazette? They go far with trousers and bow ties. I think it is a hobby sort of thing though. Your advice is more sobering though. I advise you to check their channel out however. Tell us what you think, if appropriate.
Such a good episode Ash. Thank you.
In general Sartorial classic menswear will always be the best for generations and I always pair all my Attire with certain hats including the Royal deluxe stetson open road hat as you may know Winston favored that hat pursuit of his passion for oil paintings Ash
Great content sir. Really enjoyed it.
I used to wear suits everyday for work. I tend to not wear them so much these days - I prefer a tweed jacket or blue blazer, chinos, shirt and tie and good brogues. But, I do wear my suits for certain business events, and special occasions. I have 3-4 - all good quality suits, and generally plaid. I used to like a navy blue suit, but they’ve become a bit too ubiquitous. And I always wear a tie with a suit - I used to go open shirt, but I find that approach too casual these days.
The trend for the longest time has been low rise trousers and slimmer lapels on suits. Along with your skinny fit comment, these aspects are worth avoiding appearing dated and unflattering. High rise trousers are far more flattering as they elongate the proportions of leg to torso. They are also far more comfortable to wear. A decent width lapel also compliments and accentuates mens shoulders. Finally, a minimal break on the trouser looks timeless and classy ( no ankles on show or billowing fabric around the shoe).
Hi Ash. My first suit I bought from John Colliers in the early 1970s. It was chocolate brown pinstripe with the stripes being of two thicknesses. It had obviously flared trousers and was a three piece suit. It was hideous but I thought I was the bee’s knees😂😂. I now have two suits. One of them, the fabric is by Abraham Moon and the other by Bateman Ogden. One is a three piece green overcheck tweed that I’ve nicknamed my Lord Ashfordly suit because when I saw that character on Heartbeat, I wanted a suit like it😁. The other suit, if I remember correctly, is the one made from fabric by Abraham Moon and is a two piece tan and brown check a bit like a Prince of Wales check. The Bookster green tweed is quite thick tweed cloth (but smooth beautiful quality). It’s the most I’ve ever spent on a suit, but well worth it. It doesn’t half turn heads!
Totally agree Ash. I love wearing ties and have a lot! Summer in Tokyo has become much hotter so my go to on thos
Suit Supply and Harvie & Hudson (during the sales) cover you in every aspect. Fabrics from Vitale Barberis Canonico and excellent cuts from £380 (Suit Supply). Heavier British fabrics at Harvie & Hudson as well as beautiful linens. These two make suits that last a lifetime so price/wear is phenomenally unbeatable value.
Spier and Mackay also have excellent taste, fabrics and prices. The only problem with Spier is that you might have to wait a few weeks.
At one time, Burton's employed 12,000 people in Leeds and had a tailoring arm. Their canteen sat 7,000. Pre 1980 they make some fine clothes with excellent cloth
It seems you have been watching David Saxby´s videos... Me too!
Great vid as usual! However I've noticed that your tie's stripes are slanted from your right to your left rather than from 'heart to sword' (if I'm not mistaken) as I think the British regiment ties are supposed to flow? I'm I wrong, please explain.
It is the official RAF tie. This is how it was designed
Thanks
Thank you sir. Much appreciated
"I really enjoyed the video, especially the point about wearing different colored suits. I own a mid and dark green suit, a dark purple, and a maroon one. My navy and charcoal suits have bold chalk stripes, so they all stand out without looking too flashy. However, I do disagree with your opinion on ties. Personally, I find them hot and restricting, and I’ve been wearing suits without ties for years. With a strong collar, a suit can look just as sharp without one, and no one has ever told me I’d look better with a tie. Keep up the great content!"
Grenadine ties are more breathable than regular ties, perfect for summer.
Maybe your shirts are one size too small? They shouldn't be restricting with the top button closed. If you are in a situation where have to (or are expected to) wear a tie: try to leave the top button of the shirt unbottened, under the tie knot. Hardly anybody will notice (and nobody will care anyway), and you will still be comfortable.
In the '70s Brown was the go to colour for suits (at least for me!)
At 18 in 1972 I had a brown velvet suit that I bought from the Village shop in Soho`s Brewer Street. Oh yeah I was the man. Ive only got two suits now, and i`d love another one; a two tone one: blue and silver.
My old man wears cor-blimey trousers.
3:40 - Quality is King
7:00 - Colour is your friend
10:09 - Footwear does matter
12:50 - Say yes to the tie
14:46 - Be frugal with your accessories
16:34 - Buy the correct size
18:32 - Be Conservative! (in the way you dress) ; )
Thanks, good solid advice
I love different coloured & patterned suits. In addition to my bog standard navy and grey suits, I have a red and navy blue puppy-tooth pattern, a mauve with a purple check pattern, a forest green with black check and a mid brown with a blue and red check. All of them are 3 button single breasted. I also have a linin/silk mix mottled green double breasted summer suit and a double breasted white summer suit. I wear them all regularly and frequently receive positive comments.
Burton still alive and still flowing in polyester. I just had to check. ;-) I got my first suit at maybe 12 years old. My father, at the time a fishing man in Iceland, sailed his trawler full of fish to England. Brought back a suit for me. An English gentleman style. My mother wasn't pleased, she wanted something more late 80s trendy. I loved it. Just a pity there is not a single picture available of me in it.
But all these years later I admit it is a challenge to wear a suit everyday, or even once in a while without a special occasion.
I was a bit to quick. Burton seem to be only online now.
Thanks for the great advice. One quick one: I am invited to a wedding next month. The wedding is scheduled for 4:00 PM.
I own an English made morning suit which I was considering wearing, even past the noon hour. If that's too over the top, I could go with a tuxedo. If that's still too much, I could go with a very dark or navy suit. Which of these would you select?
I wear ascot to with my blazer and my ash grey flannel pants and mroon kint tie for my casual outfit
i dont think we shoud shoot down the bowtie with the suit,i dont personally have one but i think if chosen correctly they can be pretty sharp exspecially if you want to wear yout suit more relaxed way.And i think that bowtie work better than tie whit some faceshapes.
I would love to hear your thoughts on wearing a waist coat without a jacket as an everyday option? Love the channel cheers Ash.
I will set this question aside for one of my future Q & A videos, if that is OK with you sir, as I think it merits a much fuller response than can be added to a video comment.
I look forward to that then 🍻
Pretty good vid Ash, maybe a bit strict for me, but them's the rules. Bloody Italians can keep their sprezzatura! 😉
When wesring a three piece, always wear braces rather than a belt if needed. Having a waist band, jacket, shirt and waistcoat meeting at the waist with a belt too? Way too much happening.
Never wear matching tie and pocket square. A pocket square should ideally compliment the colours of shirt and tie, maybe contain elements of their colours in lesser amounts and/or different tones, but not match. Looks like it came straight off the shelf, or your mum bought them for you.
Belt and shoes should match colour, shade and material too, though when more casual this is one I'd slighty stray from on occasion. If the belt is sympathetic to the suit, it's a bit more subdued and subtle, and your shoes are excellent, do it!
I'm not a full suit wearer often, but I would go slightly more casual in my rules personally when not in a formal environment. I would wear more or varied accessories, lapel accessories and scarves work for me, but using more than three is risky for sure.
Mixing and matching suits is great to change up a look too. A borrowed waistcoat can really look fantastic when matched either sympathetically or to clash. A light coloured summer suit with bold waistcoat can be a real winner, as can a brown tweed suit with another earth tone beneath.
Very good, I agree om most of the sentiments (except on buying second hand, in relation to moth concerns, etc.). Nice RAF tie but why have the stripes pointing downwards, American style? I received my first proper suit at age 13, as a lovely gift from my mother. It was a very nice navy SB two piece notch lapeled needlecord corduroy suit. I now have many suits, 8 of them original from the 60s and early 70s, inherited from my father. I also have quite a few new suits, including one brown 3-piece suit in whipcord. It is good for suburbia. However, I mostly wear navy club blazers with grey flannel trousers, cavalry twills or chinos in various colours (white, cream, sage, etc.). I mostly buy stock service and on a few occasions MTM (with mixed results), but not yet bespoke... The ultimate dream scenario would be to have Terry Haste make me a few suits, dinner and smoking jackets, blazers and odd jackets. 😇
It is the official RAF tie. This is how it was designed
Another route to take is to buy cloth in London and have it tailored in India like I do. My go to place for ready made suits is Moss Brothers. Good quality with affordability 👍🏼
How do you do that? Do you travel to India? I had some suits made by an Indian tailoring company when I lived in Muscat, Oman. They had a branch there (Raymond’s - don’t know if they are still there) and the suits they made for me were excellent. That was years ago, though.
@@petereastwood7868 I live in India but visit Lindon since my kid studies there. Tailoring is very expensive in London. I paid for alterations what I would have paid for tailoring two suits in India. Raymond’s is very good indeed .
I agree with you that pure natural substances are best. There is grace and elegance is a pure woollen suit. But the problem is that everything one can buy off the shelf these days is polyester. The best you can get, and that too at horrific prices, is polyester blends. Pure wool suits have become niche items that can be afforded only by the very rich. What should one do in these circumstances?
I found a good second hand online shop here in Germany (the physical shops simply can't match - yet? - the selection and quality). For years now, the only new clothing items I buy are underwear and socks. Pay 20 Euros for a suit, maybe have it tailored to fit, for €80, add 7 Euros each for a shirt and a pair of shoes, and you look great while being the opposite of very rich.
What astonishes me about second hand (I was very reluctant at first to go down that route, and walked around in cheaply made plastic clothing as a result): the stuff looks brand new, like it had never been worn. Maybe factory surplus, or last season's collection that wasn't sold by some large retailer? The mysteries of today's fashion business... to our advantage.
Light-colored leather shoes with a light-colored similar-toned suit?
Similarly, loafers without socks. I am not a fan.
I seem to remember keeping the leather items similarly colored. Brown belt, watch band, shoes. Same with black leather. Maybe oxblood or cordaban.
I don't have a huge amount of cash (& neither does anyone I know). . . I'll say "Well done, Sir" if I see a young guy who thinks he looks great . . they're trying to look good in a suit, personally I believe it'll be an encouragement for them to dress more "classically" I'm (IMO) dapper & often get complimented by younger people who wished they could "have the guts" to look different
Lovely colour! Also, besides Drake's ties, who else would you recommend?
Just buy Drakes ties. I wasted more money than I care to admit on the Italian design houses ties, and I rotate/wear the 6 Drake's ties I have in my collection. It seems strange, but Drake's just mastered ties in the normal/highish price point. They are perfect neck ties.
I buy a lot of Dunhill ties and even Brook Taverner
@@TheChapsGuide
I really like Brook Taverner. Both my single breasted navy blazer and my double breasted navy blazers are by them. Beautiful blazers that always turn heads and get compliments from both gentlemen and ladies. I went to Glasgow (love the Glasgow people) recently and wore my Panama hat with my single breasted blazer and tan wool/silk trousers and Burgundy brogues.
Can’t beat a Hermes tie…
Where's the add? I was ready to press skip and the button wasn't there!
Ash, I would be interested to hear your opinion on gentlemen's outfitters today, as there have been quite a few which have gone out of business or they have been sold to "venture capital", like Dunn & Co., Heben Cord, Austin Reed, Burton, Crombie, Aquascutum, Debenhams.
And I don't mean internet addresses, but are there still any reputable, good old fashioned physical stores around?
I will set this question aside for one of my future Q & A videos, if that is OK with you sir, as I think it merits a much fuller response than can be added to a video comment.
Real men wear nicely ironed clothes. Gentlemen would definitely concur to this.
"My advice to people is: Remember, in men's style, *simplicity* is often the best route to take." Here, here, Ash.
Sound advice…
So Ash, what colour shoes would you wear with a light blue suit?
My favourite colour footwear has always been oxblood or burgundy. The hints of red bring so much more interest to any footwear.
Unfortunately it comes down to the belief these days that suits aren’t meant to be comfortable. People aren’t aware of the fact that suits, if cut properly and made out of fabrics designed for the local environment, can be very comfortable to wear.
I bought 3 suits in the space of 5 years, off the peg and the fit was terrible, i must have a odd body shape, barrel chested (about 48 inches) but with relatively slender shoulders and slightly below average arm length, all my friends who are about my height at 6ft, their arms are a number of inches longer. I order a 44 Short and its tight over the chest but as much as 3 inches hanging over my shoulder and the arm length dragging way down near the knuckles. The other a 46 short, well, those stock pictures of kids wearing their dads clothes, completely swamped.
I decided that the next suit would be a made to measure (After a bit of online research I decided on Hockerty), a £250 pound grey twill one at first, my initial measurements were slightly off, the shoulders were still too long by an inch, as well as the arm length by the same amount, everything else was just right, nothing my local tailor couldn't fix (as well as adjusted my online profile). Now the suit looks a million bucks, I can't believe I kept buying off the peg for so long with fits thats quite simply depressing. When i'm ready, i'm willing to splash out for better materials and maybe buy a Navy Wool suit and maybe a Dinner jacket.
When I was in high school i wear a tie now I m 26 I still wear tie
I'd take a bespoke suit in mohair over an off the peg in cashmere.....
Yes, not only that most people don´t wear suits nowadays, but those ones, who do, wear this typical grey, navy or even worse black with no patterns at all. Of course it is still much better, than fast fashion and the world would be again much nicer place, if most people started to wear something more ellegant, but also those typical suits are boring and really old concept, that need some change. There are many variations, that are much better. For example navy with light blue chalk stripes, red stripes. Many variations of grey with colorful windowpanes etc... And how about suits in burgundy color, cream color again with some pastel stripes. There are ton of fabrics on the market and people still choose the same stuff. No imagination at all, right?
I am not saying, that classic boring suits are always bad. They are not and are very universal, but are not ideal to be worn all the times. I would prefer them to a classic restaurant at night time, when the atmosphere is relaxing and muted colors match the venue, but for example during a day, when the sun is shining, more colorful suits or sport jackets are the way to go to support the overall mood. One of the best dressed men in the world, who understands that is Dandy Wellington. He sports green, red, purple jackets and other great things like spectator shoes.
He is a great example of how the suits should be percieved. Not only this corporate boring thing, but also funny stuff, that makes you feel great and you don´t look like coming from an office.
This yank, who spent years in suits, noticed one thing that never changed-good taste and conservative style. Fashions come and go and are a huge waste of money. Be mindful of the basics; match belt and shoes; wear an undershirt; for god’s sake wear socks and polished shoes! Lastly, proper collars for your weight. Nice vid sir!!
Maybe you have better luck finding matching pants and jackets that fit used than I ever will. My first suit was polyester thing when I was 10 or so that still fit for a couple years but didn't see much use. Hit and miss since then because same waist size issues and mostly go with sport jackets or leather ones instead since more trouser options that work for out on the town.
Some day I might have a more "suity" job or live somewhere with less hot weather?
I have those relatives who wear the business suits to a wedding and looks more like going t' funeral and such.
Ye would neigh think people would need such basic advice about shoes constantly, right? Sigh.
Yeah, I don't think all guys need to wear the tie all the time with every jacket, but someone like Mark Cuban is just being lame.
I still have a lot of bow ties but I also have a lot of shirts where the collars are too tight and I still want to get use out of them.
The wool suits I’ve bought weren’t hard wearing. Only Had about half a dozen wears before the trousers wore and developed holes. The replacement trousers did the same. What am I doing wrong? I’ve actually found cheaper suits to be much harder wearing.
Where did the suits show wear? Was it at friction points (groin). Which could be explained due to a poor fit.
@@TheChapsGuide Thanks for the reply. Yes, it was the groin area. Maybe I need to try a different menswear shop next time.
First at last! ❤
Great video but there is nothing wrong with navy or grey suits. These are classics.
David Saxby on Burton’s: ua-cam.com/video/eePy_a6vCCI/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
“Sneaker”? You’ll be saying ‘aloominum’ next. M