Thank you for making these videos. Because of you, I was able to replace a stripped timing belt on my 2003 Mazda Protege. Excellent instructions. Thank you!
Great series. It was very much appreciated. About the TENSIONER: it IS capable of rotating after it has been torqued down. I know it doesn't look like it but it definitely does, and it should, just as you would (and did) expect. It's designed this way, of course, so that the spring can maintain the tension throughout the life of the belt. If you look closely at the mating surface, it protrudes and holds the rotating surface away from contact with the block. The way you did it is not wrong, and the result is the same anyway. Just realise that torquing the tensioner bolt while holding it with the allen key cannot permanently set the tension on the belt. Torque the tensioner down first, then use the allen key to rotate the tensioner clockwise to help get the spring on its peg without over-stretching it. Hope this helps someone. Cheers.
just did an 02 protege with a 2 liter. this has got to be the worst design ever for a tensioner. still havent put it all back together yet. timing belt is on and the covers are on also. still need to put the belts on and the valve cover. was just checking out some more video's. my belt still seems really loose and that is with everything being new. have a mitsubishi galant vr4 and done that a few times and that tensioner has the spring built into it, you just pull a pin after you get the belt on. seems way better!
I watched your 6 part series before tackling this job. The trick with the cam wrenches was great. Your video built up my confidence, and knocked out the job in 4 hrs. Purring like a cat!!! Thanks !
Just fantastic information. Stumbled across this learning about interference vs non-interference engines....belts vs chains etc.. Tyler thank you for spending the time and sharing.
Great video! appreciate passing on your knowledge to novices like me. BTW you have a nice relaxing manner when you explain things, no doubt because you genuinely care.
just bought 03 proteg with 115k on it manual sedan, first 1 ive ever owned,your video will help tremendously, will pull valve cover and inspect belt! ty for the video!
GREAT INFO AND VIDEO, VERY INFORMATIVE AND DESCRIPTIVE!!! SEEN ALL 6, lil note, I seen your shop fan, all metal!! GOT ONE JUST LIKE IT!! got from my dad, my mom tried to throw it away, i kept it!! BTW, I have a 2001 Mazda Protoge DX 2.0 Automatic. Thanks again!!
Thanks for the video. I don't have a manual and I wasn't going to pay a mechanic $1200 to do it for me. It good to be able to look at these videos to reassure that I'm not going to screw things up. You did seem to talk a lot but I found it better than the videos who skip a whole lot of important stuff then suddenly the job is done. Just a thought on the crank pulley. You could put the wheel back on with the guard off, ramp the front end up, put handbrake on and put in 5th gear. I actually put it in 5th and got my wife to put the foot on the brake.
Excellent Tyler, Im getting ready to do this on my sons 626, it has1.8l FS engine but identical as this goes. I liked your natural style of explaining, loved the crickets in the background to.
Thanks again for taking the time to tape your work. Keep the videos coming you are doing a great job. please just tape some of the aspects when it gets a little difficult and then u figure out how to do it for novices like me. If u could number the timing belt series as it appears at first it would be helpful. You can only see the numbered step when u click on the video. Again though thanks a bunch. We all really appreciate your work and helping us out.
When you said it was hard but do able, I thought well if he can do it so can I. Thanks for the video showing the timing marks actually can be lined up by mere mortals. If not for your videos, I would have given up. I also finally gave up on my auto parts store T belt as I just couldn't get it to go on without a struggle. I went to the Mazda dealer and got an OEM belt. It went on with not problem. By the way my car is a 2002 Protege, 2.0L. The cam marks lined up as well as the crankshaft mark.
An easy way to retorque the crankshaft bolt is put a mark on the bolt and a mark right beside it on the crankshaft pulley prior to removing. When it's time to put the bolt back on, just tighten until the two marks are aligned again.
Very thorough video lot of tech detail.There are two specific ways of knowing you have the cams set right.One is there are marks on the back side of the cam that line up with top of the cylinder head.Second this is dead on,at the end of each cam there is a slot.there is a special tool that fits across to each slot for hold them in place or use a piece of angle iron works the same way.Certainly makes short work of it.Thought I would add that.
@320ibeamer Scan the computer for codes. Also, check the air intake duct to the engine for splits, and also clean the MAF meter if you haven't. The MAF on these are well known to fail and cause drivability issues.
Great video, I am surprised nobody mentioned about the tensioner. The first thing is the allen key is so you can hold it still while it is tightening. You let the spring set the angle and then you make sure it does not rotate using the Allen key, while you torque the mounting bolt down. That way the belt does not get over tensioned. I am also guessing that there is another mechanism inside the tensioner. But I have not researched it other than knowing about how other cars tensioners work. It is probably has a hydraulic-based damper. That is why you can't displace it quickly like you can the spring.
The engine does turn over. It turns in the opposite direction of how you would loosen the crankshaft bolt. So, all that is required is to set the ratchet to "loosen", brace it and bump the key briefly to pop the bolt loose.
I liked that everything is shown - so its a bit long and he rambles - I prefer seeing this jumping ahead to show things taken off and not showing how it was done. Looks very similar to my 98 protege 1.5L setup.
If you mean the crank pulley, it just slides on partway and then you use the bolt to torque it down. There's a keyway there you have to pay attention to.
I watched all six videos and the explanations and detail were fantastic! I've done lots of timing belts, but none on this type of engine. I have a 2001 protege5 with the FS 2.0 motor. At 160,000 miles I suspect it's on the original belt. Did not own this car from new, so I might have to take the valve cover off to check. After watching your videos I could go outside and have this job done with confidence. Do you teach auto repair or fix cars yourself? You really have a great talent for explaining procedures and making them easy to understand. Thanks for posting these!
Seriously the videos are informative. I apologize what I commented ealrier about valve cover just was frustrated with timing belt spring. Lol fix my 03 protege lx. Long live protege
I have a video out now on the 626 2.0L timing belt. I think the confusion about the auto tensioner stems from the V6. The V6 of the same cars have hydraulic auto tensioners. The 2.0L just has spring tension. ;)
this was a great videos for someone wanting to do it yourself wasn't sure how to do this but know i understand it about how many hours did it take you to do this job thanks again
Great Job on this series! I'm about finished replacing mine. I really toiled over the tensioner. I think I've got it on right. You kind of left that part out. You talked about it before and you didn't sound sure. Then after you got it on you never really talked about what you figured out about it. I don't know if you could or not, insert a bit about that for future folk like me that were a little lost at that point. Really awesome though! Thanks for putting that together!
Yes, in retrospect I sort of glossed over the tensioner, but it's not too difficult once you understand it. It has a spring that you let set the tension, then tighten the tensioner down once that has occurred.
Incredible! Thanks so much for this series. If the vehicle was a clutch would it be easier to put the crankshaft bolt back in? could you just leave it in gear to keep shaft from spinning?
You start installing on the pullies on the side that does NOT have the tensioner there. That makes it easier to keep from getting a tooth off between the crank and cam.
Thanks for the helpful information. Quick question: I am about to perform a water pump replacement on a 1.6L Protege. Any additional considerations on getting to the pump other than the ones you addressed here?
I don't recall two marks but I'll take your word for it. Presuming that you didn't take the belt off and turn the engine afterward, with the crank lined up at TDC, there is a line etched into each cam sprocket that face each other in the center, left to right. They have to face each other exactly, as if you can lay a ruler against them and they will be perfectly straight across.
Your advice about not over tightening the valve cover bolts is no exaggeration, I checked the Haynes manual and torqued to the specified inch pounds and one of the bolts just sheared right off. I replaced the bolt, but I ignored the Haynes torque settings after that and just snugged them up hand tight with a short 1/4" drive ratchet. Same advice applies to the 6mm water pump pulley bolts, they're only about 10mm long and should not be over tightened.
Video was awesome. Make more. Only question i had was when you took the gear shaft sprocket off by pinning it with the breaker bar and then using the starting mechanism, how did you keep the engine from turning over? maybe i just dont understand how cars work or something, but this part confused me.
I think I am going to do like you did and go to the Mazda dealer for an OEM timing belt. That aftermarket belt is a pain in the ass! I'm about ready to light that piece of crap on fire. My hands are sore and I'm about fed up with it. I have a 2002 Protege 2.0L as well.
I am trying to get an answer and I know these are old videos but in the lean burn replacement with the Chevy coil, what are the three wire and in what position do they go as far as which one is hot? Then what one is tach and ground?
@@scotthiggins6993 It should be labeled A B C. A is 12v key-on power, B is the tach terminal should you choose to use one, and C is the circuit to the module.
Great videos! Great direction, keep the videos coming! I cranked the engine by hand about 10 times and noticed that the belt was sliding off. I put new belt, new tensioner, and idler. What would cause the belt to slide off?
Instead of performing the timing mark alignment. I've heard of people cutting the old timing belt length-wise down the center, slip the new one on half way and then cut the old one off. This method would probably only work if your old timing belt is still in good condition and not stripped out. It would save the having to position and hold with wrenches.
@WhoSaidTyler I've heard about the MAF issue with this car, and I checked it out, it appears to be brand new. what kind of issues would I see if the timing is wrong? it runs fine until it warms up
i had to replace a head gasket on one of these. I go the timing spot on (Im 99% sure) but I have an issue with stalling. the car cranks over fine but unless I stay on the throttle it stalls ! could that be timing issue? or should I be chasing a vaccum leak? maybe dirty EGR or IAC?
It is a self adjusting tensioner. The bolt hole is off center. So when the spring pulls and rotates the unit it pulls the contact edge tighter on the belt. Good vids tho.
i finished this job, and the car started right up, but I still have the hesitation up hills and a rough idle.....the car definitely didn't have the original timing belt when I got in there, and it actually looked pretty new. Is it possible that I got the timing wrong, and it was wrong before as well?
Hi, I've watched your videos in preparation for replacing my timing belt on my 03 Mazdaspeed Protege. I understand that the bottom pulley needs to be top dead center, and the I and E need to be lined facing each other. However, I can't figure how you got them to line up. Did you turn the pulleys with your hand? And why did you you ziptie the top pulleys? Thanks for the videos, by the way. They are extremely helpful.
+YahhAnthony you can turn the cam pullies with a rachet on the pulley bolt. Sometimes they try to turn too far forward because of being on a cam lobe. You can use two wrenches on the camshafts locked together with vice grips. It has to be absolute straight across between I and E
Well, what it means is, when the crank mark is at TDC, it's at TDC, every time. You don;t go around twice or anything like that. Same with the cams. When the marks are lined up properly to indicate they are in the TDC position, that's what they are. So, theoretically, you could remove the belt, spin the crank and/or cams around a few times, line all the marks back up, and you are good to go. At the end of the day that's all that you worry about, that you have EVERY mark on TDC.
There's a difference between TDC compression stroke and TDC exhaust stroke though. That's why the cam marks can be lined up or 180 out when the crank mark is aligned. You never mention if the crank should be at TDC compression when the cam marks are aligned. This is extremely important if the belt has broken.
Thanks. No variable valve timing on these engines in the U.S...variations in other countries may have had it and the Miata might have, but not these. Sorry.
hello I have the same problem of time with my mazda protects 5 2002 and I did everything as in the video but still continues to break and does not turn on
How do you know it's "about nothing"??? You're having to watch a video to learn how to do it, you doofus. You and everyone else that b*tches about me talking, leave me alone. Go take your car to a dealer and sit there and count out the $1000 freaking you're going to pay for them to "hurry up and do it" Would you like me to take the videos DOWN so you can do without? Keep griping then.
Well then don't watch. It's like this.... I know how to do it, and you don't. These videos cost you zero zilch to watch and (I guess) learn how to do it. The going rate for this job is about $700. If you don't have any more attention span than that then you probably won't ever learn how to do this job correctly...ever.
Bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla blaaaaa en 10 minutos se explicaría lo esencial.
Thank you for making these videos. Because of you, I was able to replace a stripped timing belt on my 2003 Mazda Protege. Excellent instructions.
Thank you!
Great series. It was very much appreciated. About the TENSIONER: it IS capable of rotating after it has been torqued down. I know it doesn't look like it but it definitely does, and it should, just as you would (and did) expect. It's designed this way, of course, so that the spring can maintain the tension throughout the life of the belt. If you look closely at the mating surface, it protrudes and holds the rotating surface away from contact with the block. The way you did it is not wrong, and the result is the same anyway. Just realise that torquing the tensioner bolt while holding it with the allen key cannot permanently set the tension on the belt. Torque the tensioner down first, then use the allen key to rotate the tensioner clockwise to help get the spring on its peg without over-stretching it. Hope this helps someone. Cheers.
just did an 02 protege with a 2 liter. this has got to be the worst design ever for a tensioner. still havent put it all back together yet. timing belt is on and the covers are on also. still need to put the belts on and the valve cover. was just checking out some more video's. my belt still seems really loose and that is with everything being new. have a mitsubishi galant vr4 and done that a few times and that tensioner has the spring built into it, you just pull a pin after you get the belt on. seems way better!
I watched your 6 part series before tackling this job. The trick with the cam wrenches was great. Your video built up my confidence, and knocked out the job in 4 hrs.
Purring like a cat!!!
Thanks !
Just fantastic information. Stumbled across this learning about interference vs non-interference engines....belts vs chains etc.. Tyler thank you for spending the time and sharing.
Great video! appreciate passing on your knowledge to novices like me.
BTW you have a nice relaxing manner when you explain things, no doubt because you genuinely care.
Thanks!
Your the man !
Very well detailed. I really appreciate the videos you put out
Thanks for this series.You walked me thru so i can do it myself!
just bought 03 proteg with 115k on it manual sedan, first 1 ive ever owned,your video will help tremendously, will pull valve cover and inspect belt! ty for the video!
GREAT INFO AND VIDEO, VERY INFORMATIVE AND DESCRIPTIVE!!! SEEN ALL 6, lil note, I seen your shop fan, all metal!! GOT ONE JUST LIKE IT!! got from my dad, my mom tried to throw it away, i kept it!! BTW, I have a 2001 Mazda Protoge DX 2.0 Automatic. Thanks again!!
Job done and well done , she runs like a champ. Thank you.
Merci! Tes vidéos m'ont été d'une aide précieuse! Thanks !
Very creative way to stop the motor from turning, good stuff there!
Looks like you got a damn good deal!
Thanks for the video. I don't have a manual and I wasn't going to pay a mechanic $1200 to do it for me. It good to be able to look at these videos to reassure that I'm not going to screw things up. You did seem to talk a lot but I found it better than the videos who skip a whole lot of important stuff then suddenly the job is done.
Just a thought on the crank pulley. You could put the wheel back on with the guard off, ramp the front end up, put handbrake on and put in 5th gear. I actually put it in 5th and got my wife to put the foot on the brake.
You got yourself a good cheap car there. Its extremely satisfying to hear that start once you finish a job that involved, great video!
you helped save me tonight. i had to change my water pump and timimng slipped. watched this and had her up and running in about an.hour. thank you
Josh Pollard You are welcome.
Excellent Tyler, Im getting ready to do this on my sons 626, it has1.8l FS engine but identical as this goes. I liked your natural style of explaining, loved the crickets in the background to.
Thank you. Hope all goes well.
Thanks again for taking the time to tape your work. Keep the videos coming you are doing a great job. please just tape some of the aspects when it gets a little difficult and then u figure out how to do it for novices like me. If u could number the timing belt series as it appears at first it would be helpful. You can only see the numbered step when u click on the video. Again though thanks a bunch. We all really appreciate your work and helping us out.
vous êtes les bienvenus!
I'm glad this has helped so many people.
When you said it was hard but do able, I thought well if he can do it so can I. Thanks for the video showing the timing marks actually can be lined up by mere mortals. If not for your videos, I would have given up. I also finally gave up on my auto parts store T belt as I just couldn't get it to go on without a struggle. I went to the Mazda dealer and got an OEM belt. It went on with not problem. By the way my car is a 2002 Protege, 2.0L. The cam marks lined up as well as the crankshaft mark.
An easy way to retorque the crankshaft bolt is put a mark on the bolt and a mark right beside it on the crankshaft pulley prior to removing. When it's time to put the bolt back on, just tighten until the two marks are aligned again.
very good videos got to do a protege5 well informed with your videos thanks Andy
I'm glad you succeeded! FWD timing belts are just no fun for anyone but you save a bundle doing it yourself.
Thanks for all the good information
Very thorough video lot of tech detail.There are two specific ways of knowing you have the cams set right.One is there are marks on the back side of the cam that line up with top of the cylinder head.Second this is dead on,at the end of each cam there is a slot.there is a special tool that fits across to each slot for hold them in place or use a piece of angle iron works the same way.Certainly makes short work of it.Thought I would add that.
@320ibeamer Scan the computer for codes. Also, check the air intake duct to the engine for splits, and also clean the MAF meter if you haven't. The MAF on these are well known to fail and cause drivability issues.
Great video, I am surprised nobody mentioned about the tensioner. The first thing is the allen key is so you can hold it still while it is tightening. You let the spring set the angle and then you make sure it does not rotate using the Allen key, while you torque the mounting bolt down. That way the belt does not get over tensioned. I am also guessing that there is another mechanism inside the tensioner. But I have not researched it other than knowing about how other cars tensioners work. It is probably has a hydraulic-based damper. That is why you can't displace it quickly like you can the spring.
The engine does turn over. It turns in the opposite direction of how you would loosen the crankshaft bolt. So, all that is required is to set the ratchet to "loosen", brace it and bump the key briefly to pop the bolt loose.
I liked that everything is shown - so its a bit long and he rambles - I prefer seeing this jumping ahead to show things taken off and not showing how it was done. Looks very similar to my 98 protege 1.5L setup.
If you mean the crank pulley, it just slides on partway and then you use the bolt to torque it down. There's a keyway there you have to pay attention to.
I watched all six videos and the explanations and detail were fantastic! I've done lots of timing belts, but none on this type of engine. I have a 2001 protege5 with the FS 2.0 motor. At 160,000 miles I suspect it's on the original belt. Did not own this car from new, so I might have to take the valve cover off to check. After watching your videos I could go outside and have this job done with confidence. Do you teach auto repair or fix cars yourself? You really have a great talent for explaining procedures and making them easy to understand. Thanks for posting these!
great i watched them all
great job. thanks for share
Seriously the videos are informative. I apologize what I commented ealrier about valve cover just was frustrated with timing belt spring. Lol fix my 03 protege lx. Long live protege
I have a video out now on the 626 2.0L timing belt. I think the confusion about the auto tensioner stems from the V6. The V6 of the same cars have hydraulic auto tensioners. The 2.0L just has spring tension. ;)
this was a great videos for someone wanting to do it yourself wasn't sure how to do this but know i understand it about how many hours did it take you to do this job thanks again
Great Job on this series! I'm about finished replacing mine. I really toiled over the tensioner. I think I've got it on right. You kind of left that part out. You talked about it before and you didn't sound sure. Then after you got it on you never really talked about what you figured out about it. I don't know if you could or not, insert a bit about that for future folk like me that were a little lost at that point. Really awesome though! Thanks for putting that together!
Yes, in retrospect I sort of glossed over the tensioner, but it's not too difficult once you understand it. It has a spring that you let set the tension, then tighten the tensioner down once that has occurred.
Cool vid! thanku
Incredible! Thanks so much for this series. If the vehicle was a clutch would it be easier to put the crankshaft bolt back in? could you just leave it in gear to keep shaft from spinning?
You start installing on the pullies on the side that does NOT have the tensioner there. That makes it easier to keep from getting a tooth off between the crank and cam.
Thanks for the helpful information.
Quick question: I am about to perform a water pump replacement on a 1.6L Protege. Any additional considerations on getting to the pump other than the ones you addressed here?
it's ALIVE!!!!!
I don't recall two marks but I'll take your word for it.
Presuming that you didn't take the belt off and turn the engine afterward, with the crank lined up at TDC, there is a line etched into each cam sprocket that face each other in the center, left to right. They have to face each other exactly, as if you can lay a ruler against them and they will be perfectly straight across.
Your advice about not over tightening the valve cover bolts is no exaggeration, I checked the Haynes manual and torqued to the specified inch pounds and one of the bolts just sheared right off. I replaced the bolt, but I ignored the Haynes torque settings after that and just snugged them up hand tight with a short 1/4" drive ratchet. Same advice applies to the 6mm water pump pulley bolts, they're only about 10mm long and should not be over tightened.
Video was awesome. Make more. Only question i had was when you took the gear shaft sprocket off by pinning it with the breaker bar and then using the starting mechanism, how did you keep the engine from turning over? maybe i just dont understand how cars work or something, but this part confused me.
I think I am going to do like you did and go to the Mazda dealer for an OEM timing belt. That aftermarket belt is a pain in the ass! I'm about ready to light that piece of crap on fire. My hands are sore and I'm about fed up with it. I have a 2002 Protege 2.0L as well.
Thanks man. I get those whiners from time to time, they have to throw in their .02
I'm in North Alabama..thanks for watching.
I am trying to get an answer and I know these are old videos but in the lean burn replacement with the Chevy coil, what are the three wire and in what position do they go as far as which one is hot? Then what one is tach and ground?
@@scotthiggins6993 It should be labeled A B C. A is 12v key-on power, B is the tach terminal should you choose to use one, and C is the circuit to the module.
Great videos! Great direction, keep the videos coming!
I cranked the engine by hand about 10 times and noticed that the belt was sliding off. I put new belt, new tensioner, and idler. What would cause the belt to slide off?
was that car flooded or m issing the bottom timing cover. how did the timing belt get so weathered like that
Instead of performing the timing mark alignment. I've heard of people cutting the old timing belt length-wise down the center, slip the new one on half way and then cut the old one off. This method would probably only work if your old timing belt is still in good condition and not stripped out. It would save the having to position and hold with wrenches.
Excellent 👍 details
@WhoSaidTyler I've heard about the MAF issue with this car, and I checked it out, it appears to be brand new. what kind of issues would I see if the timing is wrong? it runs fine until it warms up
Im hoping you see this...im having trouble getting the lower cam to not move when applying the tensioner on after the belt is on..
The springs only purpose is to suspend the tensioner in place so you can bolt the thing to the block..its just there for convenience
i had to replace a head gasket on one of these. I go the timing spot on (Im 99% sure) but I have an issue with stalling. the car cranks over fine but unless I stay on the throttle it stalls ! could that be timing issue? or should I be chasing a vaccum leak? maybe dirty EGR or IAC?
what way did you turn the tensioner clockwise or counter clockwise?
It is a self adjusting tensioner.
The bolt hole is off center. So when the spring pulls and rotates the unit it pulls the contact edge tighter on the belt.
Good vids tho.
Man don't listen to that crap! Keep the vids coming the rest of us like them! I get b.s. comments all the time too
good video. thanks. Just a question how did you remove your water pump pulley to get the old idler out/ new idler in. mines got a bad idler
I put a rag on the pulley and gently clamped a pair of vicegrips on to hold it while loosening the bolts.
i finished this job, and the car started right up, but I still have the hesitation up hills and a rough idle.....the car definitely didn't have the original timing belt when I got in there, and it actually looked pretty new. Is it possible that I got the timing wrong, and it was wrong before as well?
Hi, I've watched your videos in preparation for replacing my timing belt on my 03 Mazdaspeed Protege. I understand that the bottom pulley needs to be top dead center, and the I and E need to be lined facing each other. However, I can't figure how you got them to line up. Did you turn the pulleys with your hand? And why did you you ziptie the top pulleys? Thanks for the videos, by the way. They are extremely helpful.
+YahhAnthony you can turn the cam pullies with a rachet on the pulley bolt. Sometimes they try to turn too far forward because of being on a cam lobe. You can use two wrenches on the camshafts locked together with vice grips. It has to be absolute straight across between I and E
Well, what it means is, when the crank mark is at TDC, it's at TDC, every time. You don;t go around twice or anything like that. Same with the cams. When the marks are lined up properly to indicate they are in the TDC position, that's what they are.
So, theoretically, you could remove the belt, spin the crank and/or cams around a few times, line all the marks back up, and you are good to go. At the end of the day that's all that you worry about, that you have EVERY mark on TDC.
There's a difference between TDC compression stroke and TDC exhaust stroke though. That's why the cam marks can be lined up or 180 out when the crank mark is aligned. You never mention if the crank should be at TDC compression when the cam marks are aligned. This is extremely important if the belt has broken.
Do you need to drain the coolant to do this job?
Can you tell me where the variable valve timing solenoid is on this car. and I loved the video
Thanks. No variable valve timing on these engines in the U.S...variations in other countries may have had it and the Miata might have, but not these. Sorry.
No Impact to tighten the crank bolt? Check ebay sometimes they sell nice new IR impacts for CHEAP.. (Sub 150) Maybe mine was stolen. It works good!
Everythings lined up but as soon as i put the tensioner on, it shifts the bottom cam a whole tooth out.
soo. the spring for tensioner is useless?
no but you need to have all electrical connections attached.
Only if you decide to replace the water pump while you are in there.
hello I have the same problem of time with my mazda protects 5 2002 and I did everything as in the video but still continues to break and does not turn on
What continues to break..the timing belt?
why not just upload it here?
ok just broke the sensor trying to clean it. time to shell out another $160
..under gear box it's a hole insert the screwdriver,
you should make some one else record the next time, it caind of give me a headic ;-s
2mins explaining tighting valve cover
what a disastrous camera job
How do you know it's "about nothing"??? You're having to watch a video to learn how to do it, you doofus.
You and everyone else that b*tches about me talking, leave me alone. Go take your car to a dealer and sit there and count out the $1000 freaking you're going to pay for them to "hurry up and do it"
Would you like me to take the videos DOWN so you can do without? Keep griping then.
Well then don't watch. It's like this.... I know how to do it, and you don't. These videos cost you zero zilch to watch and (I guess) learn how to do it. The going rate for this job is about $700.
If you don't have any more attention span than that then you probably won't ever learn how to do this job correctly...ever.
after timing belt done, car will not idle and rich
+scott tavares recheck your timing marks and all electrical conectors
man I need help asap
with what?
ممل جدآ
إذا كنت ترغب في مشاهدة الترفيه انتقل إلى الأفلام
U talk and talk about nothing for half the videos.
Bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla blaaaaa en 10 minutos se explicaría lo esencial.
what way did you turn the tensioner clockwise or counter clockwise?
what way did you turn the tensioner clockwise or counter clockwise?