Can’t do that. There’s not an adapter to have a hose to attach to the suction. He should have put it inside and uses a small bucket or something. After the most of the moisture was removed the dripping would have slowed in that small space. The moisture he’s getting is from the entire outside passing through. But definitely would have worked better had he choose to circulate vs only cooling the outside air. And would of been a lot more efficient
If the unit can't recirculate the inside air it is not a fair test. That would be like taking your home air conditioner hooking up your return air to the outside and expecting it to cool the inside of your house. These things work fantastic if you use them properly. I cool a pop-up camper with one.
@@1957zeek the way to circulate the air would be to put the unit inside. I have this one a the ecoflow wave two. An that one also doesn’t have an adapter to connect a hose for the return air. What I did for that one was bought a thick gauge sheet of Kydex. And heated it an press molded it over the grill. And cut to fit a made matching tabs the grill had. A cut a hole a made attachments point for the hose to connect to. An made an adapter. Which can be done with this one. But there made to run inside. Or it can be run like that. But the system is doing much more work and not as efficient for sure
You can keep the unit outside the camper but in that case you need to have both hoses on the front of the unit. One to pull air out of the camper, run it over the evaporator and the other to send cooled air back into the camper. The two rear vents wouldn't need hoses when outside the camper. They pull outside air in, run it over the condenser heating it up and sending it back out hot. You were instead pulling in hot outside air, cooling it, and pushing the cold air into the camper. For the cold air to go into the camper it had to push air out. Air isn't compressible. You can't just keep pushing in cold air. The second hose on the front would have pushed that air back into the ZeroBreeze for more cooling. Instead without that hose you pushed cold air in, that forced the hot air out your fan vent but soon you were pushing cooled air out the top of your camper. Think about your car's AC. When it is hot outside you run it in recirculating mode to continually cool the interior air. If you don't, you are constantly trying to cool hot outside air and it isn't very effective. Or think about a window AC unit. There are two sets of coils and two sides. The inside pulls in room air, cools it, and sends it back into the room. The outside pulls in exterior air, heats it, and sends it back out. When you didn't use a hose on the bottom front vent of the ZeroBreeze it was like setting up the window AC with the bottom half exposed to the outside instead of the room. Doesn't work.
Seems like it would work better if the unit was inside the camper. Outside, it's cooling hot, humid outside air. If it was inside, it would be cooling air that's continually getting cooler. More efficient and easier on the machine, but also more effective than trying to cool the air from outside.
I don’t think it’s pulling moisture out of your camper as there is no return air connection to the unit. Perhaps it is drying the air before it blows it into the camper? If so, that drier air will tend to replace the existing air, especially given that you have the roof vent open.
@@CampandCamera to add to that, it isn't cooling as much because you are not recooling the ambient air in the trailer. You are pulling "fresh" air from whatever temperature is outside and cooling that Normally (in a house or car) you would pull your cooled air and cool it further
It's not pulling return, so it's not reconditioning the air. It's pulling the hot air from the outside, cooling it, and pumping it into the camper. I bet if the unit was inside the camper it would work more efficiently! I'd be interested in seeing that comparison!
In my tent tests, the front end had to circulate the inside space, while the back side had to circulate outside air…. Made all difference…. Unit met my expectations once I balanced that airflow
Good evening, Michael. As always, another fine video. Some info on the Climate Right AC. Climate Right is no longer imported but Vintage Trailer Works in Dothan AL is selling a nearly identical unit to the Climate Right. It is called Comfort Temp & VTR is having them built. They appear to be in stock. The units are 5000 btu & sell for $995 without the wall kit. With the wall kit they are $1055. Just some info. See you & JoAnn in a few weeks.
Hey thanks for that Ed! Mine seems to have went out the first time I used it. My luck! We look forward to seeing that big black wagon in a couple weeks!
EcoFlow has recently started making a portable Air Conditioner called the EcoFlow Wave 2. It appears to be twice as powerful as the Zero Breeze. Might be worth checking out.
@@CampandCamera About the same BTU on the Wave as a 110 Window unit 5200 BTU I believe. Also, one of those exhaust hoses is an intake hose to cool already conditioned air. Also, hook to the upper hose rather than the lower (use that for your intake) as the cold air will circulate better as it sinks in the cabin. I feel confident those two changes, combined with closing or nearly closing your vent would have doubled your result. 2500 BTU's should get your little teardrop quite cool.
@@goatman3828heat pump. It’s only effective as a heater down to a certain temp due to its method of heating. But that’s still a decently low temp. Least when I ran mine it worked in the 30’s
@@TimRoyalPastortimit’s not exactly the same wattage as a window unit. Anywhere from maybe 350ish give or take watts. To 176ish. Depending what it’s set on. Just like the breeze I have that one also. They kinda have the compressors tied into the speed of the blowers. So higher air movement. Higher compressor speed. Lower like sleep mode. Lower compressor speed. Or like turbo on the zero breeze is a high compressor speed low fan speed for that extra cold. Except doing it that way. It’s conditioning less air because the fan is slower. So normal high is actually probably doing more.
One of the back hoses should be taking air in and one is the exhaust from the info on their site if so you should connect the one pulling air in to the other connection on your teardrop and then it should be more effective as all it is doing is cooling the outside air and pumping that in so the temp wont drop that much
That’s not how AC works the rear is the condenser it has an intake an output. A the front has the evaporator and intake an output. The company don’t have a connection point for the front/evaporator intake. Only for the output. So to circulate he would have had to put the unit inside. An both rear hoses going outside. He could have did that. With the drain hose and some small catchment just for the test. Would have been draining a lot less water. Because it would have removed the moisture in that small area fairly quickly a would have been more efficient.
HI, Great channel. Love it all. Have you ever had trouble getting into a campground because they claimed the camper wasn't fully self contained? This was mentioned in another youtube video. Just curious.
Air-conditioners work by cooling the ambient or available air. Would it work better if the unit was recirculating the cooler air from inside the teardrop?
your only blowing cold air inside without exhausting air back across evaporator , therefore condensation coming out of unit is from outside air- think of car ac-condensor outside-evaporator inside-blowing air across evaporator ,therefore exhausting condansation from inside air-way over priced -thanks for review
Hey buddy I’m an HVAC guy you ain’t pulling anything out of the camper you are cooling outside air and injecting it in the camper because hot air rises it’s leaving the vent on top of the camper, I would think either one of your exhaust ports is actually an intake or the intake / evaporator coil is on the body of the unit in that case it would need to be inside the camper to function properly and the condensation tube would make sense to move the moisture from inside outside the camper and the exhaust from the condenser coil would be blown outside , also I’m an RC crawler guy saw your rig in the background I dig it !
Any chance you can link the RV sewer connections or bayonet connectors. I have a mark 3 coming and strugging to figure out how to connect it since standard 4" dryer vents won't work.
The Joann test! Ha! I was wondering about the zero breeze one after researching options. I invested in the Ecoflow Wave 2 this year which is a portable mini split that is an A/C and a heater. I didn’t invest in the separate battery yet as we mostly do shore power sites. We used the wave 2 in tent camping in 90+ super humid weather this summer and I’m loving it. We slept great - it’s a giant tent. Might test the heat function this weekend. I made a foam board insert for my teardrop window and garage testedthe A/C. Works amazingly so far. My unit is a bit heavy but for what it is, I can accept it. It has a great app that I can control it with. Sorry to hear about your error code on your existing unit - it’s an investment so I do worry on that with mine but only time will tell. Eeek.
I’m glad to hear your Ecoflow is doing well for you. I’ll have to check them out. So far, my roof fan has been satisfactory, but I haven’t been in the camper during the day, only at night. It would be nice to have a nice cool place to kick back during the midday sun!
I could see it being useful to cool off the camper in the evening just before turning in, but its definitely not going to keep it cool all day and night with that battery. At least for now I dont expect the benefit to be worth the price, but hopefully that will change as technology improves.
The longer you have the cooling hose expanded the less cooling you get. Have the cooling hose as short as you can. It can make it up to 5 degrees cooler than your video shows....
Keep it inside that way it only has to cool down the intake temperature of the ambient inside air-not the hot outside air. Let the unit breathe the fruits of its labor. Just make sure to obviously exhaust the waste heat
I love your teardrop, just subbed so will check out a build version if you have one! I noticed you did a 3d print cover for something. Is that PLA? How do you find the elasticity of it?
We tried a Pet Cool 2300 BTU years ago, Our insulated 400 CF interior in our 90F 90% never cooled down and that was two hose so some dehumidification but still humid. From what I am seeing with a single hose you are getting slightly dehumidified air. A number of Folks have tried using a 5000 BTU with a single hose and get cold wet air. I modified a 5000 BTU window unit and it does the job.
Where can I find those RV septic end caps? I’ve ordered some on Amazon and they are completely wrong. Can you guide me in the right direction? I’ve got a similar AC unit and want to add a couple holes in the side of my camper just like you did.
The condensation wouldn't be from pulling hot air out of the camper as there is one where for it to pull air from the camper. I would assume that one of the two vents in the back is actually an intake and one is an exhaust for hot air. That would explain why they suggest having those vents pointing in a different direction. It may cool more effectively if one would figure out which of those two vents on the back is drawing in air and hook the hose from that vent to the other fitting you have on the camper. At the retail price, this unit doesn't seem to be cost-effective.
It would be interesting to see the test done using your upper connection since cold air is dense. Maybe you are losing it faster than it can work and having the temperature gauge so high up is not properly representing what it can do.
its real unfortunate that you cant get climate right anymore. seams that they stoped producing right as the teardrop community and DIY community started to explode. thanks for this review I seen the pree production of it and had wondered what happened to it. I think this is one step closer to a viable option though.. also I would be interested to know what happens if you put the return air tube into the trailer as well? this may help get a better cool as well as save battery.
Love ur videos been watching ur channel for awhile with my husband Jim from touring and trails on UA-cam we have a teardrop camper and love too camp in it I love the truck and camper u have in the background can u tell me where I can find them at please
I have them both. They’re both decent units. Kinda comes down to your power bank if not running on 120v. The ecoflow is pulling 100 or so watts more than the zero breeze one mine pulls around 238ish watts on high
I did an on the wave 2 also. Wave 2 I picked up for 1,000 total as a factory refurbished on eBay for for $700 something with a discount and all. But tax an all that brought it back up to $998 or something. So the wave2 with battery. The zero breeze I picked up for $999 new an found a used battery on eBay for a decent deal. There both great units for what they are. An if you know an understand their constraints an don’t over expect what their designs can do. An work with the constraints of them. Their both decent units. One just pulls a decent less wattage than the other.
Connect the intake to the other sewer connection so it can recirculate the air. Instead of it cooling the hot air from the outside.
Can’t do that. There’s not an adapter to have a hose to attach to the suction.
He should have put it inside and uses a small bucket or something. After the most of the moisture was removed the dripping would have slowed in that small space.
The moisture he’s getting is from the entire outside passing through. But definitely would have worked better had he choose to circulate vs only cooling the outside air. And would of been a lot more efficient
If the unit can't recirculate the inside air it is not a fair test. That would be like taking your home air conditioner hooking up your return air to the outside and expecting it to cool the inside of your house. These things work fantastic if you use them properly. I cool a pop-up camper with one.
@@1957zeek the way to circulate the air would be to put the unit inside. I have this one a the ecoflow wave two. An that one also doesn’t have an adapter to connect a hose for the return air.
What I did for that one was bought a thick gauge sheet of Kydex. And heated it an press molded it over the grill. And cut to fit a made matching tabs the grill had. A cut a hole a made attachments point for the hose to connect to. An made an adapter.
Which can be done with this one. But there made to run inside. Or it can be run like that. But the system is doing much more work and not as efficient for sure
You can keep the unit outside the camper but in that case you need to have both hoses on the front of the unit. One to pull air out of the camper, run it over the evaporator and the other to send cooled air back into the camper. The two rear vents wouldn't need hoses when outside the camper. They pull outside air in, run it over the condenser heating it up and sending it back out hot. You were instead pulling in hot outside air, cooling it, and pushing the cold air into the camper. For the cold air to go into the camper it had to push air out. Air isn't compressible. You can't just keep pushing in cold air. The second hose on the front would have pushed that air back into the ZeroBreeze for more cooling. Instead without that hose you pushed cold air in, that forced the hot air out your fan vent but soon you were pushing cooled air out the top of your camper. Think about your car's AC. When it is hot outside you run it in recirculating mode to continually cool the interior air. If you don't, you are constantly trying to cool hot outside air and it isn't very effective. Or think about a window AC unit. There are two sets of coils and two sides. The inside pulls in room air, cools it, and sends it back into the room. The outside pulls in exterior air, heats it, and sends it back out. When you didn't use a hose on the bottom front vent of the ZeroBreeze it was like setting up the window AC with the bottom half exposed to the outside instead of the room. Doesn't work.
Thanks for the short explanation lol ..
Seems like it would work better if the unit was inside the camper. Outside, it's cooling hot, humid outside air. If it was inside, it would be cooling air that's continually getting cooler. More efficient and easier on the machine, but also more effective than trying to cool the air from outside.
I don’t think it’s pulling moisture out of your camper as there is no return air connection to the unit. Perhaps it is drying the air before it blows it into the camper? If so, that drier air will tend to replace the existing air, especially given that you have the roof vent open.
agree
Good point. That may be exactly what’s happening.
@@CampandCamera to add to that, it isn't cooling as much because you are not recooling the ambient air in the trailer. You are pulling "fresh" air from whatever temperature is outside and cooling that
Normally (in a house or car) you would pull your cooled air and cool it further
His wall thermometer said the humidity went from 56 percent to 45.
It's not pulling return, so it's not reconditioning the air. It's pulling the hot air from the outside, cooling it, and pumping it into the camper. I bet if the unit was inside the camper it would work more efficiently! I'd be interested in seeing that comparison!
In my tent tests, the front end had to circulate the inside space, while the back side had to circulate outside air…. Made all difference…. Unit met my expectations once I balanced that airflow
Honest review. I would put the unit inside the camper, rear houses out, in order to recirculate the cold air output.
Good evening, Michael. As always, another fine video. Some info on the Climate Right AC. Climate Right is no longer imported but Vintage Trailer Works in Dothan AL is selling a nearly identical unit to the Climate Right. It is called Comfort Temp & VTR is having them built. They appear to be in stock. The units are 5000 btu & sell for $995 without the wall kit. With the wall kit they are $1055. Just some info. See you & JoAnn in a few weeks.
Hey thanks for that Ed! Mine seems to have went out the first time I used it. My luck! We look forward to seeing that big black wagon in a couple weeks!
Thanks for sparing us the box! Love the channel
EcoFlow has recently started making a portable Air Conditioner called the EcoFlow Wave 2. It appears to be twice as powerful as the Zero Breeze. Might be worth checking out.
Thanks!
@@CampandCamera About the same BTU on the Wave as a 110 Window unit 5200 BTU I believe. Also, one of those exhaust hoses is an intake hose to cool already conditioned air. Also, hook to the upper hose rather than the lower (use that for your intake) as the cold air will circulate better as it sinks in the cabin. I feel confident those two changes, combined with closing or nearly closing your vent would have doubled your result. 2500 BTU's should get your little teardrop quite cool.
And the Ecoflow is also a heater!
@@goatman3828heat pump. It’s only effective as a heater down to a certain temp due to its method of heating. But that’s still a decently low temp.
Least when I ran mine it worked in the 30’s
@@TimRoyalPastortimit’s not exactly the same wattage as a window unit. Anywhere from maybe 350ish give or take watts. To 176ish. Depending what it’s set on.
Just like the breeze I have that one also. They kinda have the compressors tied into the speed of the blowers. So higher air movement. Higher compressor speed. Lower like sleep mode. Lower compressor speed.
Or like turbo on the zero breeze is a high compressor speed low fan speed for that extra cold. Except doing it that way. It’s conditioning less air because the fan is slower. So normal high is actually probably doing more.
One of the back hoses should be taking air in and one is the exhaust from the info on their site if so you should connect the one pulling air in to the other connection on your teardrop and then it should be more effective as all it is doing is cooling the outside air and pumping that in so the temp wont drop that much
That’s not how AC works the rear is the condenser it has an intake an output. A the front has the evaporator and intake an output.
The company don’t have a connection point for the front/evaporator intake. Only for the output.
So to circulate he would have had to put the unit inside. An both rear hoses going outside.
He could have did that. With the drain hose and some small catchment just for the test. Would have been draining a lot less water. Because it would have removed the moisture in that small area fairly quickly a would have been more efficient.
HI, Great channel. Love it all. Have you ever had trouble getting into a campground because they claimed the camper wasn't fully self contained? This was mentioned in another youtube video. Just curious.
I personally haven’t, but I stay mostly in State Parks. If I ever do, I’ll probably video the experience.
Thanks! my plan as well.
With the new mark 3 coming soon you'll be running out of there freezing in no time in that tiny space
Air-conditioners work by cooling the ambient or available air. Would it work better if the unit was recirculating the cooler air from inside the teardrop?
your only blowing cold air inside without exhausting air back across evaporator , therefore condensation coming out of unit is from outside air- think of car ac-condensor outside-evaporator inside-blowing air across evaporator ,therefore exhausting condansation from inside air-way over priced -thanks for review
Good information. Thank you!
Hey buddy I’m an HVAC guy you ain’t pulling anything out of the camper you are cooling outside air and injecting it in the camper because hot air rises it’s leaving the vent on top of the camper, I would think either one of your exhaust ports is actually an intake or the intake / evaporator coil is on the body of the unit in that case it would need to be inside the camper to function properly and the condensation tube would make sense to move the moisture from inside outside the camper and the exhaust from the condenser coil would be blown outside , also I’m an RC crawler guy saw your rig in the background I dig it !
Well, I really appreciate that information. Sounds like I should have put it inside the camper. Yep, it’s an SCX10 build!
@@CampandCamera oh nice 👍 I go to Axialfest Badlands every year in Attica Indiana with “ Dudes that RC “ hope to see you come out one year
@@HillbillyAdventures Sounds like a cool meetup!
Yes, unit should be inside.
Any chance you can link the RV sewer connections or bayonet connectors. I have a mark 3 coming and strugging to figure out how to connect it since standard 4" dryer vents won't work.
The Joann test! Ha! I was wondering about the zero breeze one after researching options. I invested in the Ecoflow Wave 2 this year which is a portable mini split that is an A/C and a heater. I didn’t invest in the separate battery yet as we mostly do shore power sites. We used the wave 2 in tent camping in 90+ super humid weather this summer and I’m loving it. We slept great - it’s a giant tent. Might test the heat function this weekend. I made a foam board insert for my teardrop window and garage testedthe A/C. Works amazingly so far. My unit is a bit heavy but for what it is, I can accept it. It has a great app that I can control it with. Sorry to hear about your error code on your existing unit - it’s an investment so I do worry on that with mine but only time will tell. Eeek.
I’m glad to hear your Ecoflow is doing well for you. I’ll have to check them out. So far, my roof fan has been satisfactory, but I haven’t been in the camper during the day, only at night. It would be nice to have a nice cool place to kick back during the midday sun!
Does it make a difference if you ran the cold air input to the top port on your teardrop? Heat rises and your thermometer is pretty high
Hmmmm…maybe.
I could see it being useful to cool off the camper in the evening just before turning in, but its definitely not going to keep it cool all day and night with that battery. At least for now I dont expect the benefit to be worth the price, but hopefully that will change as technology improves.
The longer you have the cooling hose expanded the less cooling you get. Have the cooling hose as short as you can. It can make it up to 5 degrees cooler than your video shows....
Keep it inside that way it only has to cool down the intake temperature of the ambient inside air-not the hot outside air. Let the unit breathe the fruits of its labor. Just make sure to obviously exhaust the waste heat
an hour hooked up and it goes from 86 to 76 HELL no - not good enough - thanks NOT buying one
Good honest review.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Insulated pipe might help cold air stay cooler in my opinion
This is not a accurate review. Just read the comments and you can see why.
Its not pulling humidity out if there no return on the inside
I love your teardrop, just subbed so will check out a build version if you have one! I noticed you did a 3d print cover for something. Is that PLA? How do you find the elasticity of it?
I used PETG for the exterior parts and PLA for the interior parts. So far everything has been holding up well.
it would have been nice if you let us know what the outside temp was, because that would have an effect.
We tried a Pet Cool 2300 BTU years ago, Our insulated 400 CF interior in our 90F 90% never cooled down and that was two hose so some dehumidification but still humid. From what I am seeing with a single hose you are getting slightly dehumidified air. A number of Folks have tried using a 5000 BTU with a single hose and get cold wet air. I modified a 5000 BTU window unit and it does the job.
Where can I find those RV septic end caps? I’ve ordered some on Amazon and they are completely wrong. Can you guide me in the right direction? I’ve got a similar AC unit and want to add a couple holes in the side of my camper just like you did.
@@jeremyupham7590 Here you go. amzn.to/3zKOkM0
@@jeremyupham7590 I also used these: www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N5RW2/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_BPQ399K8K7MS4F09KMJR?linkCode=ml2&tag=michaelfost06-20
@@CampandCamera thanks so much! That’s helpful:)
The condensation wouldn't be from pulling hot air out of the camper as there is one where for it to pull air from the camper. I would assume that one of the two vents in the back is actually an intake and one is an exhaust for hot air. That would explain why they suggest having those vents pointing in a different direction. It may cool more effectively if one would figure out which of those two vents on the back is drawing in air and hook the hose from that vent to the other fitting you have on the camper. At the retail price, this unit doesn't seem to be cost-effective.
It's for a hazmat suit
It would be interesting to see the test done using your upper connection since cold air is dense. Maybe you are losing it faster than it can work and having the temperature gauge so high up is not properly representing what it can do.
I have one I live in van fulltime it's an awsome personal cooler but will not cool down the whole van.but when it's 35c in the van it's a lifesaver
$1400? No thanks.
What about the noise from the unit?
It is really quiet. The fan in our bedroom is actually louder.
For rich people
its real unfortunate that you cant get climate right anymore. seams that they stoped producing right as the teardrop community and DIY community started to explode. thanks for this review I seen the pree production of it and had wondered what happened to it. I think this is one step closer to a viable option though.. also I would be interested to know what happens if you put the return air tube into the trailer as well? this may help get a better cool as well as save battery.
If you place the unit inside the caravan, it will give a better and faster result
Love ur videos been watching ur channel for awhile with my husband Jim from touring and trails on UA-cam we have a teardrop camper and love too camp in it I love the truck and camper u have in the background can u tell me where I can find them at please
Thanks for watching the channel! The little truck is a 1/10 scale RC rock crawler. The tiny camper I built from some scrap wood.
You have to remember you had your vent open, Ecoflow also has a nice AC unit.
Good point. I did consider that, but I just want to make sure there’s enough oxygen in such a tiny space.
I understand@@CampandCamera
I have them both. They’re both decent units. Kinda comes down to your power bank if not running on 120v. The ecoflow is pulling 100 or so watts more than the zero breeze one mine pulls around 238ish watts on high
That was a good test video, I thought better of the zero breeze maybe not
Wasn’t tested correctly
Great review, Michael.
Thank you!
Wow, that's not so good for almost an hour of cooling in such a small space.
You are cooling down a empty trailer imagine 2 more people?
Great review
Thank you!
Would you spend $1 K for this unit?
I did an on the wave 2 also.
Wave 2 I picked up for 1,000 total as a factory refurbished on eBay for for $700 something with a discount and all. But tax an all that brought it back up to $998 or something.
So the wave2 with battery.
The zero breeze I picked up for $999 new an found a used battery on eBay for a decent deal.
There both great units for what they are. An if you know an understand their constraints an don’t over expect what their designs can do. An work with the constraints of them.
Their both decent units. One just pulls a decent less wattage than the other.