My Free BMW Isn't Making Boost... Why?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 25 тра 2024
- In today's video we are jumping back into the 2008 BMW 335i E90 with the N54 engine!
Why isn't it making boost? Today we try to figure that out.
As always a big thank you to @DandyWaves for blessing me with this project car! She sure is coming along great. ill be sure to link any tools used below! Hope you enjoy :)
If you’d like to support the channel, you can join my UA-cam membership program, it’s the “JOIN” button on this video or my channel homepage, or you use this link here!
/ @dayoffdiy
If Patreon is more your speed, we got one of those too!
/ dayoffdiy
DAY OFF DIY DISCORD LINK!
/ discord
TOOLS USED:
Autoline Pro Ventus Smoke Machine:
urlgeni.us/amazon/dayoffdiy-v...
Bladder Adapter:
urlgeni.us/amazon/dayoffdiy-b...
Sil-Glyde:
amzn.to/3QVCDb1
Vevor 5K Lb. Car Lift
amzn.to/49zMiv9
Cooling System Pressure tester w/ BMW adapter
amzn.to/439McHG
Vacuum Tester:
amzn.to/3wTDxhF - Авто та транспорт
The more I watch all your hard work to get this car working well, the more I am glad that I sold my 335 and replaced it with a 328. The n52 engine definitely has less power but the design is certainly simpler with less to go wrong and so much easier to work on.
Another great video! The fuel problem will for sure be why you can't get on it. If there's not enough fuel pressure to run higher power then it just won't boost requires fuel as you know. I agree with your turbo reasoning. Smoke em! They usually keep working but get seals that leak oil etc. The waste gates don't usually case anything but noise. The rattle everyone cries about won't case any faults.
I don’t see this as a setback. There has been so much progress overtime and I know you will get this baby in pristine condition
Keep the content coming. Wish you could post more often, one of my favorite channels.
Pipe you replaced is on the suction side not the pressure side, I knew it wasn't gonna build boost still
I love watching your vids before going to work on my own car 🤣🤣
She will become great Alec. Needs just a lot of love. Wish i could help you out more but actually not possible brother..:(
I hope you have an awesome Weekend with you family and and some quality father son Time ❤
Take care of yourself and your puppy sage :)
See ya on your next Video thank you as always 💪👍👊✌️
Let's gooooooooo! Start teaching Sage what tool is for what, will half the labor once she's on deck and not sun baking 🙃
keep making n54 videos please your content is amazing
Its really interesting to see how you diagnose these issues, and it will be really satisfying to see it all come together in the end:) Keep it up bud!
Well that tube you replaced was not on the boost side, that was actualy obvious is would fix the boost. I'd say mount those new turbos on them, fix the fuel pressure fault and take the time to relearn the adaptations.
Great video! I really like the way you explain what you are looking for and doing at each step of the process.
Got an early n54 335i myself in the Netherlands and experienced the same fuel pressure and lack of power problem. In my case the culprit was the old style fuel pressure sensor. Swapped it out for a new style Bosch sensor and problem solved. You need to replace a part of the hard fuel line as well. Hope it helps!
The boost pressure control, deactivation fault is a consequential fault caused by the fuel low pressure sensor fault. The n54 also measures the air by the temperature and the pressure in the manifold; it has no maf, so there can't be a vacuum leak on the non-pressurized side of the intake tract. Hope you can get the car situated soon!
So much fun to watch you. I am waiting on parts for my 2002 e39 530i. All because of your videos I feel confident in doing it myself.
I have a n54, and i reccomend upgrading the chargepipe to an aluminum one and also that plastic pipe that sits on the radiator fan to a 5/16s solid brake line because its very prone to breaking, and the charge pipe is also been recorded to burst under stock boost
Very easy to repair the waste gate on them turbos. Those turbos can be saved considering the mileage
Good video once again, keep it going and you'll have a fine running engine!
Genuinely loving these vids, also informative keep it up
oh snap no vacuum canisters you need them they are important
Keep doing the lords work sir! Thank you for your sharing of all your knowledge
My car would do something similar turned out that my waste gate actuator rod lost its clip on the outside so it wasn’t even attached long shot I think I got unlucky somehow this happened to whoever owned the car before me but after 6 months of trying to Google and replacing lines finally I found the problem maybe this is your issue doubt it seems like a 1 out of million type of problem
Good video bro like always enjoy watching 👀.
👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
@fcpeuro please sponsor this man with some parts!
Hey man :) nice dive in there. if you're going to make some DIY in your house, and since it's something you do regularly, have you consider to create another channel for your house DIY?
I am running no vacuum canisters for 2 years. Zero problems
LETS GOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!
Great to see the boost coming.. but I also would verify the fuel system. It's possible that either the lines or the pump is not keeping up with the load. You even got a code for fuel I think, don't you?
Great vid as always very interesting
👍
amazing info about the N54 !
Well at least you have the turbos if you happen to need to use them. I don't understand why they call my car (which is a BMW X1) a twin turbo when it's only one turbo on the car period. I finally got the smoke to quit in my car with some Cata-Clean. I was wondering if you knew with a temp gun pointed on the oil cooler and the high pressure fuel pump how many degrees F it would be? Does around 155f on the oil cooler and HPFP sound about normal to you after the car has been driven several miles? Awesome video man I know you'll eventually get it how you want it.
Why didn’t you get the vacuum canisters from LKQ or a similar place?
Log fuel pressures, lpfp should be minimum 45psi and hpfp shouldn’t dip below 1400PSI full throttle.
Keep up the great work getting these bimmers back in the road!
how do you get the Insta Program for the laptop
Why not an aluminum charge pipe? I replaced my charge pipe for my n55 engine with Aluminum
another great video brotha! Enjoy your time with your parents.
injectors, hppfp, lpfp
Which l can purchase the grey BMW car but l live in trinidad
Help pleases. I’ve been looking around everywhere and I can’t find the reason where the car jerks when hitting 1,500 rpm and then about 3k rpm under load. Any ideas?? I recently bought a 07 328xi e92 150k miles
Hit up Viv for Viv 19t V4's. Trust worthy
The rod bearings crying from the first highway pull and the car not even being warm at all 😭
car was plenty warm!
@@DayOffDIY you sure???? it didn’t look like the temp gauge was off 160 😭. Also i love your vids man all love 🙏🏻🙏🏻
That’s oil temperature on the cluster, engine temperature isn’t shown on the cluster on N54s
@@DayOffDIY oh interesting. I always just follow my oil temp on my cluster before i do any hard pulls but yeah i guess you do probably know more than me. after all you are a bmw technician 😂
try to refurbishing the OLD TURBOS...!
Hey man kinda bummed me out this particular video. I don’t know if you did it for the sake of selling out on the smoke machine but there’s a lot of miss information going on and terms being thrown around loosely. You smoke tested the turbo inlets claiming to be searching for a vacuum leak which makes no sense at all for a few reason. First and foremost the n54 doesn’t have a maf and therefore is speed density based. Those intake runners there that you smoke tested and went on and on about replacing don’t effect the cars performance whatsoever. Actually the turbos would function just fine without them, the only purpose they serve is to allow air to travel from a higher up filtered/cleaner source. Replacing them would do nothing to stop a car that isn’t building boost and I feel as if you know this… you keep calling them “charge pipes” and they just aren’t… if you were to have a boost leak it would be somewhere from the turbo to the intercooler or intercooler to intake mani (through the actual charge pipe) into the engine so on and so forth… you know very well that these cars have flawed vacuum actuation based waste gates and develop a rattle where the flappers won’t shut fully thus defaulting towards their normally open state as per their design. This isn’t normal for you and I don’t know why you’re doing this but please “smoke test” your facts before putting them out there in informational videos please. Kindly from one tech to another :)
Hey robert, I wanted to get back to you on this! first of all, your comment inspired me to pin a comment to the video going over some details on what I did and in regards to what you had to say! Ill keep it more brief here since I got a little lengthy on that other comment.
I wanna apologize for making you think I am promoting the tool or spreading bad info. I simply thought I was chasing that leak in the right way! I figured smoking it would be a good place to start to check for a boost leak, and being that the pressure side of the turbo was tight, I figured that must be my source.
Ill be the first to admit, I still have A LOT to learn about automotive engines, and I am not that good with turbo cars. I never claim to be a master tech or even a good mechanic, Im simply a dude trying to fix some cars and document the process. I want to be able to teach viewers the right way to do things, but sometimes i simply dont have all the knowledge like in this video.
Ive learned a lot from this video and the feedback you and other viewers have given me, and I will continue to remain teachable and willing to learn.
Also, there was no paid promotion in this video, I simply thought smoking it was the right place to start.
Thank you for your support, viewership, and comment!
Even though its not always fun for me to read, comments keep me humble and teach me a lot.
I hope youll continue to tune into the channel!
Thanks again
@@DayOffDIY man you’re such a good guy I feel bad now looking back at my comment haha my apologies, I thought you were a master level BMW technician or something back from your dealership days. My apologies I didn’t mean to come off like a Mr Subaru all condescending and whatnot. I wish I could go back and change my tone now. I can tell you’re a really bright guy and good mechanic. I really thought you were just pushing the idea for the sake of the smoke machine. My apologies. I always enjoy watching your videos I can tell you’re a genuine and good guy by the way you treat your dog alone.
Random side suggestion: You should make an Amazon wishlist or something and post it in the link of your videos. Put some stuff on there that would help you out in making videos/working on cars or some stuff for the puppy if you’d like to. I think that would be a great way for some of us to support you and the channel:))
Im sorry alec, but replacing the intake pipe for the turbo for a boost leak was very low iq of u, respectfully. 30ff is set for boost pressure like you mentioned, so if anything it’ll be a leak from either the turbo outlets to the inter cooler, the inter cooler itself or the charge pipe to the throttle body ( very common). Or waste gates not sealing. As for the vacuum canister delete, it will not affect the solenoid actuation. I personally am running a canister delete. The only symptom you’d experience from a canister delete is loss of brake assist from the booster which is documented to even not be a big deal cuz youd need to be braking, while the car is still building boost, which usually doesnt happen unless you’re brake boosting intentionally.
Dang man, “low IQ” really?
Just because it’s pre turbo doesn’t mean it won’t affect the systems ability to build boost.
For all of my n54's and N55's, the first thing I do before anything else is change the charge pipes. The OEM designs are just shitty. Why not just change the wastegates?
Mine blew on stock boost lol
Really good channel here learn a lot about the N54 set up Tks..
because there from temu
Dude don’t push the car when it’s cold. Wait till that temp at least is above the 160 mark.
the car was plenty warm, had it idling in the shop for a while
Hope you newer work on customers cars 😄😄
I take pipe wil NEVER cause no boost pressure.. and doing pulls on cold engine is just so stupid... 🤦♂️🤦♂️
Ive worked on lots of em, thousands, and will continue to do so!
Also, the car is going into limp mode and deactivating the turbos causing boost to not build, so yes it can cuase it to not build boost. also, the engine was warm.
BMW engineering. Why do German parts always fail?
Junkyard
Love watching this channel.