I can't believe it...thank you! When we bought ours, the roof didn't work and it took me quite some searching to find out why. Two relais we oxidized and the hydraulic fluid was almost empty. And then while standing outside for 6 months due to our house renovation, it had around 80L of water inside and I could not determine where from, so I thought everything is leaking everywhere. But now I will look for those draintubes and see if they are the culprit. Great hint!
I’m not taking anything away from this method which obviously works. I had a Boxster and I cleaned the drains with a trombone cleaner, basically two tiny chimney sweep type brushes one on either end of a flexible metal pipe. The difference here might be that the Boxster drains are vertical where here they are angled to approximately 90 degrees. I also know the Audi drain linings are particularly poor and a lot of people replace them with domestic appliance drain tubes. Anyway the trombone cleaner method takes about 1 minute per side and can be done from either end. I also cleaned my Cayenne drains and they have permanently fixed solid covers in the panoramic roof channels so the only access is from the underside. That takes about 20 mins per side as the drains are behind the wheel arch linings and the rear bumper splash seals. I’m just trying to help, not everyone will have a compressor at home but a trombone cleaner costs about £7 or under 10 USD. Just be very careful with the Audi drain linings.
Yeah the drain material here is a known issue too, they do degrade when not looked after and then you’re scuppered - luckily they’re fairly easy to replace in these if that does happen. Good point though!
@@eddherring4972 @benofthenorth do you think I could use the trombone cleaner around the roof without removing the wheel arch? Don’t want to take the wheels off but need to clean the tubes as they’re blocked. Hoping replacement won’t be needed
@@olivershort7689 yes, that’s the idea. Certainly on a Boxster you push from the top until the head pops out the bottom then pull it out from the bottom. The issue is the Audi drainage is known to fail it becomes brittle and basically falls apart and that could be the problem so go at it gently.
Just tried to find the drain holes ,cant see past the maze of steel bars holding the roof in place. Will try from the wheel arch.im going to try using a net curtain wire holder due to its flexibility and run it up the hole .will let you know how it worked.
Why have I not subscribed before? Fantastic description and superb demo of have to do this! One word....Sludgy! Also....I noticed those rear shocks. I just ordered a pair for mine so will let you know how I get on fitting them and IF they fit! I have gone for Monroe.
@@benofthenorthuk I had a few conversations with a few people on shocks and Monroe seem to be the closest to OEM. The G1236 ones come up as compatible on some site but not on others. So I did some digging which I will cover in the video. By the looks of it, the rear shocks for a 1.8T will fit. The only caveat to that is that some of the 3.2s have Magnetronic (I think that is how its spelt) suspension so you can adjust the hardness from the cabin. Sounds proper flash but I do not have that. So I have ordered a pair in and will try and fit this week. I will keep you posted buddy and see you in July at my place!
@@benofthenorthuk Yes! Exactly the same, although the channels are slightly different. Happened this March when it was raining non-stop. Took it to the local dealers, they quoted £1400!! Not covered by warranty. I was fuming. Went back to the dealer where I bought the car from (in February) and they were nice and sorted it, as it should've been done as part of the prep. Now I'm paranoid so check once a week for leaves and rubbish down there.
Has the car remained dry? I’ve seen another video where the drain pipes perish, so even if cleared water could get to the electrics where it’s perished couldn’t it?
@@benofthenorthuk that’s good.. I’ve just bought one blind on auction but suspect it has leaked and damaged the comfort control unit.. I’m hoping when I get it delivered it’s not too big of a project getting it fixed up 🤦♂️😂
@@ianjames5150 Excellent! If you replace the CCM, my only advice is to get one with the same final letter at the end of the model code. So if yours ends E, get one that ends E. Good luck!
Question. How is water gaining access to the retracted top area? Did it rain with the top down? Is the top material damaged? Are the seal/top areas when the top/roof is up compromised? There should not be access to water with the top/roof up. Just wondering. Thanks
I believe it's possible for it to pool where the folding section of the side of the roof meets the body of the car and the door window - which is why they designed the roof drains on the parcel shelf in the first place (The drains are at the very edge). With any mechanism like that it'll never be truly water tight. During heavy rain and the tubes being blocked, that's when you get real problems.
There is I think from under the scuttle, but not quite sure what the location of them is - that's usually how the coupes end up with wet footwells too.
If I want to clean the rear drainage, do I have to take the wheel off and arch lining or can I attempt to clean with these still in place from above? Reason I ask if I’ve never removed the wheel myself so am nervous to do this
@@olivershort7689 You could probably pop the arch liner tabs out at the bottom while the wheel is in place if you're lucky, and lift it away to allow for the gunk to get out. Would be much easier with the wheel off though.
Great vid on this Ben, have to do mine. Was you at the motorist meet this weekend? I'm wanting to paint my roll bars black like you have, are they easy to remove? Frase
Thanks! I was indeed, it was a fantastic meet. The roll bars are fairly easy to remove - two bolts hold each one in, just have to remove the trim first. I had mine powder coated, exactly what I was after
Hi, My CCM doesn't work anymore. I don't care about the electric rooftop but I must find a solution for the electric windows to go the rooftop, and the opening of the gascap and rearbonnet. Do you know a solution ?
Normally you'll need to replace the CCM with another unit - when you do, make sure the last letter (A, B, C etc) matches on the existing unit and the new one you have, otherwise it may not be compatible. Many breakers will have CCM units in stock usually.
@@benofthenorthuk Get a wet vac, it'll help it dry quicker by washing it, pulling the soapy water back out. Sounds stupid but making it wetter then hoovering it back out will make it dry quicker
My passengers side is soaking so I'm going to try this.looks almost impossible to reach the top of the channel from the roof section.also I havnt got air machine so thinking about using some type of coiled metal tubing to push into the hole because I dont think a air hose line from local petrol stn will be the same.
@@leath25 it’ll need to be something thin like a wire hanger, just be careful not to pierce the drain tube. My parcel shelf is now always bone dry, but carpets in the footwell are still wet, I think I have another issue elsewhere too, perhaps the door seal or the front drain tube too.
Just bought a 2005 Roadster, nice condition, very low mileage, but I’ve just noticed (after heavy rainfall) a wet passenger footwell, and wet slightly behind the seat too. Is this likely to be the issue? Driver side fine. Why would it only be happening one side?
There's a few culprits - one is blocked rear drain tubes as in this video (One side could be blocked and not the other). You could also suffer from ages door seals, this tends to cause the leak to come in from near the front of where the door sits (Again, can be one side). Also you could have blocked front drain tubes - these are under the scuttle panel and could be blocked with leaves etc. I'd suspect the door seals. It could be only one side is going, it could also be the angle the rain hit the car meant only one side took the hit.
@@benofthenorthuk thanks for this Ben. I noticed also after closer inspection that there's wet on the driver side too, but up further closer to the pedals... think the seals are partly responsible because water drops tend to form on the panel under the door when closed....
@@frankspeaking If you can get someone to spray a hosepipe at the front half of the doors, you can see if the seals have given up as there'll be water coming in at the bottom near the front. Quite common on these, and not always easily solved I'm afraid. New seals aren't really available for the roadster. There's a few tips and tricks if you search online, but I've not found anything that was effective as yet (I suffer the same issue)
A fair point, but these are old and very weak plastic tubes, doing that has a huge risk of going through the sides of the tubes with the wire and making holes, making them effectively useless.
@@benofthenorthuk No worries. I've re-edited my comment as meant to say small screwdriver (doh!) but have flu at the mo so that's my excuse, lol. The REAL drainage point (underneath the car just behind the front wheel arches) just needed unblocking (not saying ths will be the same for everyone). No video or forum gave this info out. *Hours of the day before frustration solved at no huge risk*. And all by trial and error. i.e. noticing where water dripped out of the car as I was testing for any drainage improvements.! : )
@@beejj6190 Yeah the fronts are a whole different thing arent they! The rears are very delicate if they've not been replaced (And the rarely have), so you have to be super careful with those ones.
I would never entertain the thought of having such a foolishly designed car operate at 100% anyways. These do however have a bullet proof drivetrain and a very rigid chassis that is supposedly only 88lbs heavier than the coupe
I can't believe it...thank you! When we bought ours, the roof didn't work and it took me quite some searching to find out why. Two relais we oxidized and the hydraulic fluid was almost empty. And then while standing outside for 6 months due to our house renovation, it had around 80L of water inside and I could not determine where from, so I thought everything is leaking everywhere. But now I will look for those draintubes and see if they are the culprit. Great hint!
I’m not taking anything away from this method which obviously works. I had a Boxster and I cleaned the drains with a trombone cleaner, basically two tiny chimney sweep type brushes one on either end of a flexible metal pipe. The difference here might be that the Boxster drains are vertical where here they are angled to approximately 90 degrees. I also know the Audi drain linings are particularly poor and a lot of people replace them with domestic appliance drain tubes. Anyway the trombone cleaner method takes about 1 minute per side and can be done from either end. I also cleaned my Cayenne drains and they have permanently fixed solid covers in the panoramic roof channels so the only access is from the underside. That takes about 20 mins per side as the drains are behind the wheel arch linings and the rear bumper splash seals.
I’m just trying to help, not everyone will have a compressor at home but a trombone cleaner costs about £7 or under 10 USD. Just be very careful with the Audi drain linings.
Yeah the drain material here is a known issue too, they do degrade when not looked after and then you’re scuppered - luckily they’re fairly easy to replace in these if that does happen. Good point though!
@@eddherring4972 @benofthenorth do you think I could use the trombone cleaner around the roof without removing the wheel arch? Don’t want to take the wheels off but need to clean the tubes as they’re blocked. Hoping replacement won’t be needed
@@olivershort7689 yes, that’s the idea. Certainly on a Boxster you push from the top until the head pops out the bottom then pull it out from the bottom. The issue is the Audi drainage is known to fail it becomes brittle and basically falls apart and that could be the problem so go at it gently.
Nice one bro 👌🏽 I'll be checking my pipes before I take my one out on the road .
Good video Ben, well done. Thanks. Be doing mine soon.
Just tried to find the drain holes ,cant see past the maze of steel bars holding the roof in place. Will try from the wheel arch.im going to try using a net curtain wire holder due to its flexibility and run it up the hole .will let you know how it worked.
I'm in the same boat. I can't find the top where it starts to blow down.
Nice to see another 3.2 is your glacier blue, mine is on a 53 plate
Mine is Dolomite Grey - mines a 53 plate too, Christmas Eve it was registered- nice Christmas present for its original owner 😁
Why have I not subscribed before? Fantastic description and superb demo of have to do this! One word....Sludgy! Also....I noticed those rear shocks. I just ordered a pair for mine so will let you know how I get on fitting them and IF they fit! I have gone for Monroe.
Thanks Andy! Where did you order them from? I keep seeing Bilstein ones, but as mine is lowered I think I want to keep OEM too.
@@benofthenorthuk I had a few conversations with a few people on shocks and Monroe seem to be the closest to OEM. The G1236 ones come up as compatible on some site but not on others. So I did some digging which I will cover in the video. By the looks of it, the rear shocks for a 1.8T will fit. The only caveat to that is that some of the 3.2s have Magnetronic (I think that is how its spelt) suspension so you can adjust the hardness from the cabin. Sounds proper flash but I do not have that. So I have ordered a pair in and will try and fit this week. I will keep you posted buddy and see you in July at my place!
@@andycharger Sweet!
Great vid mate just subscribed keep them coming 👍
Thanks man!
Can you do a video for the MK3? Can't believe they still haven't resolved this design issue. My BMW convertible was fine.
Sorry - not really familiar with the Mk3 - does that suffer the same issue?
@@benofthenorthuk Yes! Exactly the same, although the channels are slightly different. Happened this March when it was raining non-stop. Took it to the local dealers, they quoted £1400!! Not covered by warranty. I was fuming. Went back to the dealer where I bought the car from (in February) and they were nice and sorted it, as it should've been done as part of the prep. Now I'm paranoid so check once a week for leaves and rubbish down there.
Has the car remained dry? I’ve seen another video where the drain pipes perish, so even if cleared water could get to the electrics where it’s perished couldn’t it?
Mine has remained dry, to my surprise actually!
@@benofthenorthuk that’s good.. I’ve just bought one blind on auction but suspect it has leaked and damaged the comfort control unit.. I’m hoping when I get it delivered it’s not too big of a project getting it fixed up 🤦♂️😂
@@ianjames5150 Excellent! If you replace the CCM, my only advice is to get one with the same final letter at the end of the model code. So if yours ends E, get one that ends E. Good luck!
Question. How is water gaining access to the retracted top area? Did it rain with the top down? Is the top material damaged? Are the seal/top areas when the top/roof is up compromised? There should not be access to water with the top/roof up. Just wondering. Thanks
I believe it's possible for it to pool where the folding section of the side of the roof meets the body of the car and the door window - which is why they designed the roof drains on the parcel shelf in the first place (The drains are at the very edge). With any mechanism like that it'll never be truly water tight. During heavy rain and the tubes being blocked, that's when you get real problems.
Also condensation.
Does the other side also have a drainplug or only the right side?
Both sides have one, same on each side
Thanks Ben for your vid I’ll be having a look at mine fanbloodytastic 👍👨🏻🏭
Are there any other drainage points I need to be aware of? Getting water in footwell so planning to clear all drainage points in the hope it clears up
There is I think from under the scuttle, but not quite sure what the location of them is - that's usually how the coupes end up with wet footwells too.
@ thank you!
If I want to clean the rear drainage, do I have to take the wheel off and arch lining or can I attempt to clean with these still in place from above? Reason I ask if I’ve never removed the wheel myself so am nervous to do this
@@olivershort7689 You could probably pop the arch liner tabs out at the bottom while the wheel is in place if you're lucky, and lift it away to allow for the gunk to get out. Would be much easier with the wheel off though.
@ had a peak at lunch, looks like one of the sides has perished as the sprint was sticking out without any lining. Will need to try and replace
Great vid on this Ben, have to do mine.
Was you at the motorist meet this weekend? I'm wanting to paint my roll bars black like you have, are they easy to remove? Frase
Thanks! I was indeed, it was a fantastic meet. The roll bars are fairly easy to remove - two bolts hold each one in, just have to remove the trim first. I had mine powder coated, exactly what I was after
I thought you were there,it was a great meet you're right, your black hoops looked spot on, just what I'm after. Cheers👍
Hi,
My CCM doesn't work anymore.
I don't care about the electric rooftop but I must find a solution for the electric windows to go the rooftop, and the opening of the gascap and rearbonnet.
Do you know a solution ?
Normally you'll need to replace the CCM with another unit - when you do, make sure the last letter (A, B, C etc) matches on the existing unit and the new one you have, otherwise it may not be compatible. Many breakers will have CCM units in stock usually.
@@benofthenorthuk Thanks for your answer. I don't want to spend 500 Eur for a used module. I'll try to find an other solution.
Nice clear video mate :)
Thanks! I just need to wait a month for the carpets to dry now 😁
@@benofthenorthuk Get a wet vac, it'll help it dry quicker by washing it, pulling the soapy water back out.
Sounds stupid but making it wetter then hoovering it back out will make it dry quicker
@@MotorMonkeyz Thanks, will have to give that a go
My passengers side is soaking so I'm going to try this.looks almost impossible to reach the top of the channel from the roof section.also I havnt got air machine so thinking about using some type of coiled metal tubing to push into the hole because I dont think a air hose line from local petrol stn will be the same.
@@leath25 it’ll need to be something thin like a wire hanger, just be careful not to pierce the drain tube. My parcel shelf is now always bone dry, but carpets in the footwell are still wet, I think I have another issue elsewhere too, perhaps the door seal or the front drain tube too.
Just bought a 2005 Roadster, nice condition, very low mileage, but I’ve just noticed (after heavy rainfall) a wet passenger footwell, and wet slightly behind the seat too. Is this likely to be the issue? Driver side fine. Why would it only be happening one side?
There's a few culprits - one is blocked rear drain tubes as in this video (One side could be blocked and not the other). You could also suffer from ages door seals, this tends to cause the leak to come in from near the front of where the door sits (Again, can be one side). Also you could have blocked front drain tubes - these are under the scuttle panel and could be blocked with leaves etc. I'd suspect the door seals. It could be only one side is going, it could also be the angle the rain hit the car meant only one side took the hit.
@@benofthenorthuk thanks for this Ben. I noticed also after closer inspection that there's wet on the driver side too, but up further closer to the pedals... think the seals are partly responsible because water drops tend to form on the panel under the door when closed....
@@frankspeaking If you can get someone to spray a hosepipe at the front half of the doors, you can see if the seals have given up as there'll be water coming in at the bottom near the front. Quite common on these, and not always easily solved I'm afraid. New seals aren't really available for the roadster. There's a few tips and tricks if you search online, but I've not found anything that was effective as yet (I suffer the same issue)
@@benofthenorthukcheers again for taking the time Ben - I sent u a message on your Insta account. Hope that's ok 😊
?? I did this in 5 mins by just sticking a small screwdriver into the drain holes exit points under the chassis... Hmm.
A fair point, but these are old and very weak plastic tubes, doing that has a huge risk of going through the sides of the tubes with the wire and making holes, making them effectively useless.
@@benofthenorthuk No worries. I've re-edited my comment as meant to say small screwdriver (doh!) but have flu at the mo so that's my excuse, lol.
The REAL drainage point (underneath the car just behind the front wheel arches) just needed unblocking (not saying ths will be the same for everyone). No video or forum gave this info out. *Hours of the day before frustration solved at no huge risk*. And all by trial and error. i.e. noticing where water dripped out of the car as I was testing for any drainage improvements.! : )
@@beejj6190 Yeah the fronts are a whole different thing arent they! The rears are very delicate if they've not been replaced (And the rarely have), so you have to be super careful with those ones.
i feel left out… my 2003 quattro hasn’t needed any of these fixes @ 80k
Ha, you're lucky!
I would never entertain the thought of having such a foolishly designed car operate at 100% anyways. These do however have a bullet proof drivetrain and a very rigid chassis that is supposedly only 88lbs heavier than the coupe