Very Well presented Video!! Clear and precise explanations. I look forward to other pieces of Ham Radio Equipment you may take the same approach with. THANK YOU!
Thanks for another excellent Heathkit video Jeff. I like the same consistent approach you take. I think your channel is a valuable resource for Heathkit history.
The external keyer RCA jack is for a straight key. I built mine back in 1980 still use it today. Thank you so much for the video. I haven’t opened it up since I built it.
I lived through that era and would love to have had an HD-1410 or a Curtis 8044 chip. Never had either. Instead I lost $52 of paper route money to Trigger Electronics for a mechanical keyer they never sent. Nowadays I use an Arduino Nano that cost me $1.50.
Hi Jeff, I built one of these in the early 1980s. I'm left-handed so I wired it up for right-handed operation and found room on the back panel to mount a small toggle switch so that I could use it left-handed but others could use it right-handed. I also made the modification to plug in an external paddle. I never could get the internal paddle to work just right. I used it for several years. Good video, thanks. -- Mike - WB4HUC Austin, Tx
Just getting back into radio and pulled up my old keyer. Hope to use it on my new FT-710 if I can find out how to wire it to interface with the rig! WB9VVH in TN
I think a minor modification of adding a proper line cord that is attached to the rear and you should use a strain relief to do this. Where the 12 volt plastic connector is a chassis mounted fuse holder should be placed. A larger square plate to enable these mods would be in order. You could still open it up without worrying about getting shocked if done right. Nice review Jeff!
Hi Jeff, I have an IM-28 vtvm that worked perfectly after I repaired it. It now does not read ac. I've checked the tubes & they are good. I've put it aside & am working on other things. Do you have any suggestions as to what to check?
The manual suggests the following if AC is not working: 1. Check the 6AL5 tube. 2. Check C1 .047 uF 1600 volt and the two .05 uF capacitors C2 and C3. 3. Check the function switch carefully. I would also check the resistors around the 6AL5 tube and ranges switch resistors R2, R3, and R4. If you don't have one, you can find copies of the manual on the Internet from sites such as mods.dk
It is not a relay, but this may be what you need. See the section "Modifications For Use With Ten-Tec, Triton And Rigs With Similar Keying Requirements" at k7mem.com/Keyer_HD-1410.html
Yes, it should work. I found a copy of the Kenwood 830 manual and it listed the voltage at the key jack as -65V and that is within the -200V limit of the HD-1410.
😀 The age old question relating to restoration - how far do you go? While I would try to source original knobs and appropriate rubber feet, not sure about repainting as it would destroy the patina?
The HD-1410 was my first electronic keyer and used it for several years back in the 70's. I later bought another one at a hamfest. I also had a Vibroplex bug passed on by my Elmer. I liked the 1410 over the bug but I loved the looks of the Vibroplex 🙂73 de WA4JAT
Very Well presented Video!! Clear and precise explanations. I look forward to other pieces of Ham Radio Equipment you may take the same approach with. THANK YOU!
Thanks for another excellent Heathkit video Jeff. I like the same consistent approach you take. I think your channel is a valuable resource for Heathkit history.
I have 2 and I'm currently relearning CW. Great video, worth a watch. 73 DE VE5JL
Jeff you did an amazing job restoring the Heathkit HD-1410 Electronic Keyer.
The external keyer RCA jack is for a straight key. I built mine back in 1980 still use it today.
Thank you so much for the video. I haven’t opened it up since I built it.
I forgot about the HD 10, we had one in radio club in HS
I lived through that era and would love to have had an HD-1410 or a Curtis 8044 chip. Never had either. Instead I lost $52 of paper route money to Trigger Electronics for a mechanical keyer they never sent. Nowadays I use an Arduino Nano that cost me $1.50.
Excellent review; very informative. Much appreciation for posting.
Hi Jeff,
I built one of these in the early 1980s. I'm left-handed so I wired it up for right-handed operation and found room on the back panel to mount a small toggle switch so that I could use it left-handed but others could use it right-handed. I also made the modification to plug in an external paddle. I never could get the internal paddle to work just right. I used it for several years.
Good video, thanks.
--
Mike - WB4HUC
Austin, Tx
Thank you for posting this.
Just getting back into radio and pulled up my old keyer. Hope to use it on my new FT-710 if I can find out how to wire it to interface with the rig! WB9VVH in TN
I use this same keyer on my Kenwood TS 940. It still works great
I think a minor modification of adding a proper line cord that is attached to the rear and you should use a strain relief to do this.
Where the 12 volt plastic connector is a chassis mounted fuse holder should be placed. A larger square plate to enable these mods would be in order.
You could still open it up without worrying about getting shocked if done right. Nice review Jeff!
Thank you Jeff for helping me in your reply. I'll proceed with those checks in the near future,
I have one of these from a Hamfest, but don't get to use it much. My Heathkit SB-104A is in the shop.
Hi Jeff, I have an IM-28 vtvm that worked perfectly after I repaired it. It now does not read ac. I've checked the tubes & they are good. I've put it aside & am working on other things. Do you have any suggestions as to what to check?
The manual suggests the following if AC is not working:
1. Check the 6AL5 tube.
2. Check C1 .047 uF 1600 volt and the two .05 uF capacitors C2 and C3.
3. Check the function switch carefully.
I would also check the resistors around the 6AL5 tube and ranges switch resistors R2, R3, and R4.
If you don't have one, you can find copies of the manual on the Internet from sites such as mods.dk
My hd1410 will not key my Omni A. It's switching from receive but no output. Is there a circuit diagram to make it activate a mechanical relay?
It is not a relay, but this may be what you need. See the section "Modifications For Use With Ten-Tec, Triton And Rigs With Similar Keying Requirements" at k7mem.com/Keyer_HD-1410.html
@@jefftranter Thanks Jeff. The HD1410 will key the Century 21. It has a switching diode.
Can you use the with the Kenwood 830 ? Thx for put. the video 73, ON3MK Mor
Yes, it should work. I found a copy of the Kenwood 830 manual and it listed the voltage at the key jack as -65V and that is within the -200V limit of the HD-1410.
@@jefftranter Many thx for you replay 73,
Cabinet needs repaint. Needs feet. Needs correct knobs.
😀 The age old question relating to restoration - how far do you go? While I would try to source original knobs and appropriate rubber feet, not sure about repainting as it would destroy the patina?
The HD-1410 was my first electronic keyer and used it for several years back in the 70's. I later bought another one at a hamfest. I also had a Vibroplex bug passed on by my Elmer. I liked the 1410 over the bug but I loved the looks of the Vibroplex 🙂73 de WA4JAT