Thanks for the videos, I've learned a lot from the subscription.. I'm leaning from the 10th degree blackbelt of headlight restoration! The Bruce Lee of brilliant lights.. 🙂 I watched about 10 videos before I did my lights, I like to feel I'm 100 % ready before I go hands on the car.. I definitely felt sure when I did mine, so Ty bro...
But in some, he talks about another topic so watching them all is beneficial.. We all like to see the money shot..the finished light..That's why u watch em all..
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 Some people are still gonna question it, but you know just as well as I do, SUCCESS leaves clues! Follow them like you teach here, and they too can have success! 💪💪💪
glad i found this on your videos! been following your headlight restoration steps. these headlights the dips at the lower inner corner. had to manually sand them. i used an orbital polisher since its what i had at home. mine weren’t as clear as yours specially at the inner lower part but im happy. i learned something and its gonna be looking a lot better next time.. will be sanding my headlights again in a yr. thank you!
Headlight pro, just can’t stop watching, amazing great looking lights as always, picking up some more tips good stuff, I’m in the correction phase of my light , taking my time, want it perfect before I spray.
I've watched almost all of your videos and I must say...your method is S-Tier. Not only do you tell us what to do, you show us EVERYTHING. The 3M trizact p3000 pad is REQUIRED to achieve the highest level of clarity. You said it and I put it to the test by purchasing the 3M restoration kit ($30, comes with 1 trizact pad). Sold me right there. Like you, I tried the p800 to p3000 discs and do not reach the upper levels of quality. My next purchase is the ACDelco polisher with 3M lens polish. I tried the Meguiars Ultimate compound followed by PlasticX...it's A-Tier quality. How you explained drill vs polisher for the polishing stage was top level. Just like you, I wanted to know the science behind it. As you explained, you need the heat from the polisher to get the polycarbonate to absorb and refine, which is only achievable through high RPMs (0-7800) a polisher provides as opposed to a drill (0-1400). Thank you for taking the time to teach and instruct.
It's hard to show things like this because I don't typically have them..... My level of this is so minut it's almost invisible.. you should be striving for that as well you don't want to have any if possible..... I have damn near non-existent it's very rare that I might see a little something....
I did my first headlight last night on a 08 Honda Accord. I was babying it because I didn't want to shave too much off. I had to go back and hit a couple spots w the P800 and then polished again. Made great improvements but I don't think I got it as good as the pro here.
Hey bro how are you advertising your services and what area are you in? Are you pushing this as a full time job or a side hustle? I'm about to get started myself and I'm curious about everything.
There's some questions that I fill our personal ...I don't answer on this channel. Primarily business questions.. I just try to keep it predominantly about the actual headlight restoration work.. In the future might dip into that a little bit more one way or another..
Very well done video. Did you start off with a 250 or 300 grit? I noticed you did that clear coat removal dry. I know when you do that you have to switch out multiple disks because they do clog up fast from the oxidation. I am curious though toward the end with that 800 grit. It seems like you jumped to the 3000 right after that. I had a good laugh 😆seeing that but I guest for video time sake, you probably did a grit size or two before getting to that 3000 but left it out the video. I was amazed that you used the drill with the 3000 disk. I never thought of doing that. Think I'll do that from now on. I appreciate the double decker padding for those curvature headlight situations. That was smart. I learned something there. The UV spray coating at the end was nice. I use to do that technique back in 2015. It's still good though. It's just that you have to have an enclosed environment like inside a garage to spray that stuff. In an outdoor setting wind blowing debri on the lights before that stuff drys use to drive me nuts. 😖 Especially when a flying bug lands on it. It becomes fly paper to insects before it drys. I started using auto ceramic or the polymer vapor which gets the lights crystal clear like the spray on UV coat. It stays crystal clear for 10 to 12 months without polishing. Longer if the client keeps the vehicle in a garage. Good job on this video. I wish I could do my vids like this.
The tip is very directional Plus it's a very diffused spray which means very missed like. Times the fact that is extremely evaporative meaning it anticipates really fast almost like the air melts it.. with all that like I said it's very directional tip which means that it has a 2-in fan spray.. you got to keep in mind this is designed to be sprayed on headlights so the tip is made this way so long as you keep 2 in going around the light you'll be fine.. it doesn't even come close to the engine.. or even the car paint for that matter.. being that is 2 in and you're spraying the outer edge of the light you might have a quarter inch overspray a half an inch over spray.. What this product overspray is not an issue it's because it's designed for headlights..🫵🏽💯
@theheadlightrestorationpro awesome. I appreciate you responding so quick. I was an "ok" headlight restorer but have learned so much more by watching your videos.
Yes sir videos like this when I was beginning.. but nothing really existed out there there was no such thing as a headlight channel until I did it... Had some followers after me but respectfully they're not me not even close..lol💯✊🏽
Have you made a video showing up how you carry ur tools and equipment to the site? If not can u make a tutorial ? I dont know if i should buy a wheeled toolbox to carry all those batterys and drills, also ive watched u use P500 3" that look like theyve been cut to size ... im curious how u carry all ur gear and what u are using 🤷🏻♂️👍
Okay first of all let me tell you thank you for watching I appreciate the support you come to the right place for the best and highest level of headlight restoration... Far as how I get the equipment there I pretty much walk it up I typically have two bags of different stuff a stool and two fans everything is contained in a two bags and in the stool if you look up the stool that I have in my bio...(all supplies and even more than not a shown on the videos are listed in the bio) Pretty much like two or three trips to the car and I try to park as close as possible that way it alleviates the need to have some kind of Wheeling device.. about nine times out of 10 I can park close enough to where I'm a couple car links away where's no problem to carry the equipment... The cart would be a good idea but I try to maximize the space I have in just a vehicle.(sedan) The p500s are cut to size by what you order they come in all different kind of sizes but I used the 3-in so they're pre-cut to 3 in...
@@theheadlightrestorationpro oh ok awsone yeah i ordered the 6" p500 im going to cut them to 3" i get 2 per sheet, im practicing on our vehicles 2005 tacoma and 2007 oddysey using ur method and they came out "to Perfection" 😎👍 thank you for sharing ur knowledge
I’m give your method a go this weekend on my Explorer I ordered all my supplies. Question, being I don’t have drill polisher can I hand sand my headlight? And if so which motion do you recommend vertical/horizontal or circular motion?!
You can hand sand kinda...the results wouldn't be the same....you can get a good result but you would be lacking a lot of HEAT from friction of the RPM which is necessary for this level of high clarity.. Especially with the trizact pad step and the polishing step which is 7,800 RPM...😲 Ok so if you're hand sanding always just side to side or up and down...NEVER circles....
About 4 years if you take care of it ... If you don't.. about 13-17 months looking new... This doesn't mean it goes back to bad right away...it generally will take years to go bad to the level they were..
Bigger company means more money, which means more higher paid scientists, more testing and spare no cost to make the proper level of quality... When it comes to that 3M is definitely the highest on most things..... I'm just pissed I don't have a spray sealant hopefully soon they decide to to make one...
@@theheadlightrestorationpro Exactly!! I love that meguiars spray but I wish it had more fillers so I wouldn’t have to work so hard looking for scratches but to tell you the truth most of my customers don’t even see my scratches. Sometimes I catch myself 4 inches from the lens looking deep into the light trying to find any scratches like a mental person when the customer just looks from 5 feet away and they love it ….lol
@itsandrew8758 yeah using a DA you're going to see all kind of stuff I've said it numerous times do not use a DA for this level of quality you will never achieve it I couldn't even achieve it and I'm the one.. So if you really want to not see those pigtails when you look real close don't use a da step number one rule number one.. the more shit that you use closer to what I'm using the better your product will be if you want a chance actually perfecting it to the level that I'm doing it at I would just take the easy route and use exactly what I use into exactly what I do it's plotted out as a map there's over 120 videos on this channel showing you every single time the quality that I get when I use this method and this is only about 10% of the vehicles I do I don't record about 90% of them...
Basically about at least 4 minutes.. I tape them both off in the beginning.. then one line at a time.. when I finish the last slide I move over to the first light and start cleaning up gives the other light time to dry..
@triplethreatoutdoors6523 I'm not familiar with that Maguire's and 100 stuff I'll have to look it up I might have used it can't remember but it's not striking a memory as of now but I'm sure I'd use it over plastic x... Plastic eggs is a very low level product.. extremely consumer base in reference metaphorically to a bulldozer it's a Tonka toy ..
No such thing as a permanent coating.. Lauren told you that is an educated and or a liar..💯 Well this is an interesting question and guarantees last longer than a year.. I have it until my vehicles that are over 4 years old with it slightly.. it all depends on the quality of the skill that whoever is applying it and also heavily on aftercare and who's using the vehicle. The one year is simply a disclaimer.. like where a product that is fairly weak will tell you to wear gloves and eye protection just as a disclaimer.. pretty much because there are people out there that will use the product and apply it incorrectly and or be very slovenly with their vehicle like not washed her vehicle but once or twice a year and have it sitting outside.. typically it lasts over 2 years and some change for the normal crowd of people.. if you're applying aftercare or taking care of your vehicle and excess like I said over 3 to 4 years.. also when these time frames are applied it does not mean that it goes back immediately at this 15 months immediately at this 26 months and it's terrible bad like it was you might notice it's like color difference on certain areas or yellowing or something just not the way it was what it was fresh and brand new.. typically on cars of medium badness it will not revert back to that level of madness for like 4-5 years.. But yes that's definitely more than a year.. sorry this I've ever had somebody come back to redo their headlights was well over two years and they were an extreme case.. it's on one of my videos.. they drove about 300 miles a day for 2 years... Thanks for the question.. They set the bar super low merely as a disclaimer this only applies generally to a very small percentage of lazy car owners or like I said extreme car owners.. plus there's other variabilities depending on what light structure you have.. anything forward facing or AKA facing the sun more time of the day which is generally a vertical facing section of the headlight is more susceptible to damage a couple hundredfold... ua-cam.com/video/OKgJajX1H-I/v-deo.html
How do I get my headlights to be in one of your videos? lol… for reals, I’m located in Cali, do you have some way I can contact you? I’ll make the drive to where ever your at
Much much inferior....like training wheels. Very inconsistent and you will never achieve the clarity that you need nine times out of 10.. and like I said with the inconsistency you could do 10 lights and all 10 lights will come out different quality.. this has to do with a lot of problems with wet sanding... Not enough heat.... Very hard to see and know your depth of how far you need to go... Gross and it's very messy.. professional... But that's quite a bit of reasons why those are just some of the top of my head of the number ones.. but even besides quality one of the biggest ones is that you can possibly do as good as a job with power tools.. drills go anywhere already at the tools that I'm using go anywhere between 1700 RPM and 7800 RPM... How close do you think you can mimic that by hand.. if you're an athlete probably about 90 to 100 RPM.. 1000% no comparison.. it's very remedial metaphorically it's like walking compared to driving... It takes an astronomical amount of more time a lot of people lie about it because the shy that they using an inferior method.. But on average doing a headlight by hand sanding only will take you probably about about 30 minutes to an hour depending upon skill level.... With power tools you not only achieve a better quality outcome but it only will take you somewhere between 10 min and 20 minutes a light...much farther and better.. Check out this video here... ua-cam.com/video/eoPKK-trHdg/v-deo.html
The best thing to do is not damage somebody's vehicle... If this happens you need to reevaluate if you're doing what it takes to protect your vehicle correctly if you're not masking off.. like actually creating a cast around the headlight you're doing something wrong. Prevention is King. If you're not using the proper tape which automotive finish tape is highly scratch resistant.. then you're doing something wrong... As far on how to fix it that's a whole another video of explanations... I do provide the service but it would take me a video of of explanation to explain it to you a similar makeup which is basically a scratch removal is the only video that I have besides how that restoration posted now.. This might help you so check it out... Other than that the best thing is to do is apologize if you can't fix it and hope it's not that bad...ua-cam.com/video/EEKv-L-G8GY/v-deo.html
Also check out this video the proper way to tape up a vehicle looks like this.. This is one of the only videos that I have up about taping off vehicles is actually one of the most important videos I have up...🫵🏽👀ua-cam.com/video/tDuyrgoj6-k/v-deo.html
If my headlights aren’t yet fogged or discolored, (they only have some eroded clear coat along the top) then do I still need to perform the whole process? Would just using the spray protection keep the remaining clear coat intact?
Good question it's a rule of thumb if there's any bad you start from scratch redo the whole headlight... It's very rare occasion where it's okay to not.. and it takes a lot of skill to do it without it shining through.. meaning being quite visible that there's a difference between one part of the light and the next. I highly wouldn't recommend trying this is not even for skilled person unless absolutely necessary for some reason. I already discussed the number two reason because you will see the difference and different spots of light sooner or later.. the number one reason is that when one part starts going bad that's just the part that is most exposed to the damage by sun or whatever other environmental factors.. you got to think as a clear coat and a headlight as one unit so if one piece is going bad what does that mean for the rest of the unit or the rest of the clear coat? Exactly it's due to expire sooner than not.. what you have is you think you cropped out this bad area that would sound like his wife on your lights didn't think about how soon around that area past the border of the stuff you removed along with the other spots the headlight will go bad underneath the clear coat that you freshly applied and or faster than the top coat of clear coat.. I have learned this the hard way and it almost always will expire much faster than it was supposed to because of this more aged clear coat underneath. It's best and like I said recommended to just do the whole thing. Then you know everything is fine clean cut and a unit with a time limit that is universal throughout the whole headlight... Especially if you're selling a product.. it's a rare times that I do this but my experience level is quite high and I only do this if it is a certain type of headlight and a certain type of hardness in the clear coat which would take me a long time to explain...👍🏽💯
@@theheadlightrestorationpro Yes, thank you, that does make sense. I don't know if it makes any difference to your answer, but the remaining clear coat is the factory clear coat and I have yet to do a headlight restore on this car (2016 Mazda6 so it lasted 7 years). Isn't the factory clear significantly more durable than the spray-on clear protectant used in restores? I get that it would be very hard to fair in the transition between the factor and new spray-on to get it seamless but might it help the remaining factory coating to last a bit longer? I feel like once I start the headlight restore process, I'm going to need to redo it at least annually. Perhaps as you say it's just time to bite the bullet and take it all back to bare plastic and recoat?
You have a vehicle that is prone to go bad.. the way your headlights are constructed... You going to want to redo it all trust me or it's just going to bite you in the butt way sooner than you will need headlight restoration again.. if you wanted to last longer as long as it can you need to watch this video.. this is one of the single most important things of have that restoration after it's done.. some people don't care and they're like okay I'll just do it every 2 years but if you wanted to last longer and don't want to have to pay for it again for as long as possible you must apply after care.. ua-cam.com/video/kIur4XxYjDk/v-deo.html
yo pro is it just me or are the BMW clearcoats weird and harder to fully sand since they have this weird layer that doesnt sand like any other cars i have done.
@theheadlightrestorationpro thanks upping my price in all bmw effective immediately. would love to see a video of you restoring one and showing us how you do them lol
How much do you charge for a restoration? I just bought a pair of replacements for my 2013 Hyundai for $115 🤷🏼♂️. Bumper removal, swap and aim is a :30 min process.
You're about to be in a world of trouble if you paid $15 for two headlights for a 2013 vehicle..lol Those headlights are probably so cheaply made in aftermarket it's insane you got to be careful of what you buy out there some people will sell you turds for the price of gold.. You should never buy aftermarket.... Euro Liam headlights are worth so much.... There's a reason why you see your OEM headlights are probably five times that much.... Huge reason... 😂 He will for surely see soon.... ua-cam.com/video/LcMFr0mpp-4/v-deo.htmlsi=cGorS1DeY1oj85DX
Ok. It would be so helpful if you wrote a script with steps and just outlined them. Step 1 do this, Determine cloudiness level. 1, 2, 3, or 4. Stop 2 do this Wash and wipe Step 3 do this With level 1 start with this grit 800 use these brand of discs and holders. use with ater, or not ? They are available at Home Depot or ..... Step 4 do this with level 2 start with this grit. Always move through these 3 grits? or 4 or 5? Whatever you recomend. At Step 5 STOP TALKING AND ORGANIZE YOUR MIND AND YOUR THOUGHTS INTO SEQUENCES WE CAN USE. Otherwise your just going round and round and not making too much sense. If there is a brand name product tell us where in the steps to use it and where it is available. Do you get it? There were valuable tips in here but it's so disorganized I have no idea where to begin on my headlights. and how to walk myself through this method. Totally lost. Have a really organized person help you write this out. and help you write a script. read the script and stop ab libbing! I'ts crazy making. Double stuff? Cmon man organize this. Thanks, Greg
Thanks for the videos, I've learned a lot from the subscription.. I'm leaning from the 10th degree blackbelt of headlight restoration! The Bruce Lee of brilliant lights.. 🙂 I watched about 10 videos before I did my lights, I like to feel I'm 100 % ready before I go hands on the car.. I definitely felt sure when I did mine, so Ty bro...
Even though it's basically the same video every time, I'll watch them and STILL be amazed each time 😮
Yes sir...all headlights in different ways...
Got some really different stuff coming soon..💯
More tests, education and reviews😳😳😳
Yeah this guy is a master
But in some, he talks about another topic so watching them all is beneficial.. We all like to see the money shot..the finished light..That's why u watch em all..
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Some people are still gonna question it, but you know just as well as I do, SUCCESS leaves clues! Follow them like you teach here, and they too can have success! 💪💪💪
😎👍🏽💯
glad i found this on your videos! been following your headlight restoration steps. these headlights the dips at the lower inner corner. had to manually sand them. i used an orbital polisher since its what i had at home. mine weren’t as clear as yours specially at the inner lower part but im happy. i learned something and its gonna be looking a lot better next time.. will be sanding my headlights again in a yr. thank you!
Headlight pro, just can’t stop watching, amazing great looking lights as always, picking up some more tips good stuff, I’m in the correction phase of my light , taking my time, want it perfect before I spray.
👍🏽
Bruh you don't miss!! I can't even bare watching other videos anymore 😂😂😂
Hey thank you man I really appreciate it any more to come...💯🤓
I've watched almost all of your videos and I must say...your method is S-Tier. Not only do you tell us what to do, you show us EVERYTHING.
The 3M trizact p3000 pad is REQUIRED to achieve the highest level of clarity. You said it and I put it to the test by purchasing the 3M restoration kit ($30, comes with 1 trizact pad). Sold me right there. Like you, I tried the p800 to p3000 discs and do not reach the upper levels of quality.
My next purchase is the ACDelco polisher with 3M lens polish. I tried the Meguiars Ultimate compound followed by PlasticX...it's A-Tier quality.
How you explained drill vs polisher for the polishing stage was top level. Just like you, I wanted to know the science behind it. As you explained, you need the heat from the polisher to get the polycarbonate to absorb and refine, which is only achievable through high RPMs (0-7800) a polisher provides as opposed to a drill (0-1400).
Thank you for taking the time to teach and instruct.
Awesome... A true scholar...
Really appreciate you watching much more to come...
Can you please show us an example of tiny nicks and scratches that will be filled in with the clear coat as mentioned at 17:35
It's hard to show things like this because I don't typically have them..... My level of this is so minut it's almost invisible.. you should be striving for that as well you don't want to have any if possible..... I have damn near non-existent it's very rare that I might see a little something....
Brilliant job lad🤘
Thank you very much appreciate your viewing plenty more videos up and plenty more to come...
I did my first headlight last night on a 08 Honda Accord. I was babying it because I didn't want to shave too much off. I had to go back and hit a couple spots w the P800 and then polished again. Made great improvements but I don't think I got it as good as the pro here.
So glad I've found your videos. It has helped me so much. Customers are amazed. But I'm only getting 1 a week right now that sucks
Awesome 👍🏽.. one is better than none..💯
Hey bro how are you advertising your services and what area are you in? Are you pushing this as a full time job or a side hustle? I'm about to get started myself and I'm curious about everything.
There's some questions that I fill our personal ...I don't answer on this channel.
Primarily business questions..
I just try to keep it predominantly about the actual headlight restoration work..
In the future might dip into that a little bit more one way or another..
Great video.. is that drill rotation going left ?
An alter left a ride depending on what I needed to do...
Thanks again brother for another great video👍🏼👍🏼.
Hey thank you for watching and enjoying 👍🏽💯😎
Appreciate it..
Very well done video. Did you start off with a 250 or 300 grit? I noticed you did that clear coat removal dry. I know when you do that you have to switch out multiple disks because they do clog up fast from the oxidation. I am curious though toward the end with that 800 grit. It seems like you jumped to the 3000 right after that. I had a good laugh 😆seeing that but I guest for video time sake, you probably did a grit size or two before getting to that 3000 but left it out the video. I was amazed that you used the drill with the 3000 disk. I never thought of doing that. Think I'll do that from now on. I appreciate the double decker padding for those curvature headlight situations. That was smart. I learned something there. The UV spray coating at the end was nice. I use to do that technique back in 2015. It's still good though. It's just that you have to have an enclosed environment like inside a garage to spray that stuff. In an outdoor setting wind blowing debri on the lights before that stuff drys use to drive me nuts. 😖 Especially when a flying bug lands on it. It becomes fly paper to insects before it drys. I started using auto ceramic or the polymer vapor which gets the lights crystal clear like the spray on UV coat. It stays crystal clear for 10 to 12 months without polishing. Longer if the client keeps the vehicle in a garage. Good job on this video. I wish I could do my vids like this.
Thanks for all your videos and knowledge! Do you have a website that outlines your method with tips and tricks?
Not at the moment sir... Been really busy hopefully you getting to something like that soon...
Do you clean the trizact 3000 and reuse them?
I see you spray that meguiars clear coat but without covering the engine for over spray?
The tip is very directional Plus it's a very diffused spray which means very missed like. Times the fact that is extremely evaporative meaning it anticipates really fast almost like the air melts it.. with all that like I said it's very directional tip which means that it has a 2-in fan spray.. you got to keep in mind this is designed to be sprayed on headlights so the tip is made this way so long as you keep 2 in going around the light you'll be fine.. it doesn't even come close to the engine.. or even the car paint for that matter.. being that is 2 in and you're spraying the outer edge of the light you might have a quarter inch overspray a half an inch over spray..
What this product overspray is not an issue it's because it's designed for headlights..🫵🏽💯
@theheadlightrestorationpro awesome. I appreciate you responding so quick. I was an "ok" headlight restorer but have learned so much more by watching your videos.
Yes sir videos like this when I was beginning.. but nothing really existed out there there was no such thing as a headlight channel until I did it... Had some followers after me but respectfully they're not me not even close..lol💯✊🏽
Have you made a video showing up how you carry ur tools and equipment to the site? If not can u make a tutorial ? I dont know if i should buy a wheeled toolbox to carry all those batterys and drills, also ive watched u use P500 3" that look like theyve been cut to size ... im curious how u carry all ur gear and what u are using 🤷🏻♂️👍
Okay first of all let me tell you thank you for watching I appreciate the support you come to the right place for the best and highest level of headlight restoration...
Far as how I get the equipment there I pretty much walk it up I typically have two bags of different stuff a stool and two fans everything is contained in a two bags and in the stool if you look up the stool that I have in my bio...(all supplies and even more than not a shown on the videos are listed in the bio)
Pretty much like two or three trips to the car and I try to park as close as possible that way it alleviates the need to have some kind of Wheeling device.. about nine times out of 10 I can park close enough to where I'm a couple car links away where's no problem to carry the equipment...
The cart would be a good idea but I try to maximize the space I have in just a vehicle.(sedan)
The p500s are cut to size by what you order they come in all different kind of sizes but I used the 3-in so they're pre-cut to 3 in...
@@theheadlightrestorationpro oh ok awsone yeah i ordered the 6" p500 im going to cut them to 3" i get 2 per sheet, im practicing on our vehicles 2005 tacoma and 2007 oddysey using ur method and they came out "to Perfection" 😎👍 thank you for sharing ur knowledge
Awesome....🤓💯👍🏽
I’m give your method a go this weekend on my Explorer I ordered all my supplies. Question, being I don’t have drill polisher can I hand sand my headlight? And if so which motion do you recommend vertical/horizontal or circular motion?!
You can hand sand kinda...the results wouldn't be the same....you can get a good result but you would be lacking a lot of HEAT from friction of the RPM which is necessary for this level of high clarity..
Especially with the trizact pad step and the polishing step which is 7,800 RPM...😲
Ok so if you're hand sanding always just side to side or up and down...NEVER circles....
How long does that coating last? Great video!! 👍
About 4 years if you take care of it ...
If you don't.. about 13-17 months looking new... This doesn't mean it goes back to bad right away...it generally will take years to go bad to the level they were..
@@theheadlightrestorationpro thanks!! Keep up the awesome work 👍
You’re so right about 3m pads. I’ve tried cheaper pads and they clog up as soon as I start sanding
Bigger company means more money, which means more higher paid scientists, more testing and spare no cost to make the proper level of quality...
When it comes to that 3M is definitely the highest on most things.....
I'm just pissed I don't have a spray sealant hopefully soon they decide to to make one...
@@theheadlightrestorationpro Exactly!! I love that meguiars spray but I wish it had more fillers so I wouldn’t have to work so hard looking for scratches but to tell you the truth most of my customers don’t even see my scratches. Sometimes I catch myself 4 inches from the lens looking deep into the light trying to find any scratches like a mental person when the customer just looks from 5 feet away and they love it ….lol
@grandmastert01 exactly 💯
@@grandmastert01same! When I look real close I can see some pigtails (I use a DA) I’ve been struggling to get perfection
@itsandrew8758 yeah using a DA you're going to see all kind of stuff I've said it numerous times do not use a DA for this level of quality you will never achieve it I couldn't even achieve it and I'm the one..
So if you really want to not see those pigtails when you look real close don't use a da step number one rule number one.. the more shit that you use closer to what I'm using the better your product will be if you want a chance actually perfecting it to the level that I'm doing it at I would just take the easy route and use exactly what I use into exactly what I do it's plotted out as a map there's over 120 videos on this channel showing you every single time the quality that I get when I use this method and this is only about 10% of the vehicles I do I don't record about 90% of them...
How long do you pet it dry before you take the tape off?
Pet it?
@@theheadlightrestorationpro Sorry meant to say, let it dry before taking the tape off
Basically about at least 4 minutes..
I tape them both off in the beginning.. then one line at a time.. when I finish the last slide I move over to the first light and start cleaning up gives the other light time to dry..
@@theheadlightrestorationpro awesome thank you, also one more question lol, would you use Maguires M100/104 as a polish before spraying or plastic X
@triplethreatoutdoors6523 I'm not familiar with that Maguire's and 100 stuff I'll have to look it up I might have used it can't remember but it's not striking a memory as of now but I'm sure I'd use it over plastic x... Plastic eggs is a very low level product.. extremely consumer base in reference metaphorically to a bulldozer it's a Tonka toy ..
What is the longevity of the Maguires? Is it a 1-2yr or permanent coating?
No such thing as a permanent coating.. Lauren told you that is an educated and or a liar..💯
Well this is an interesting question and guarantees last longer than a year..
I have it until my vehicles that are over 4 years old with it slightly.. it all depends on the quality of the skill that whoever is applying it and also heavily on aftercare and who's using the vehicle. The one year is simply a disclaimer.. like where a product that is fairly weak will tell you to wear gloves and eye protection just as a disclaimer.. pretty much because there are people out there that will use the product and apply it incorrectly and or be very slovenly with their vehicle like not washed her vehicle but once or twice a year and have it sitting outside.. typically it lasts over 2 years and some change for the normal crowd of people.. if you're applying aftercare or taking care of your vehicle and excess like I said over 3 to 4 years.. also when these time frames are applied it does not mean that it goes back immediately at this 15 months immediately at this 26 months and it's terrible bad like it was you might notice it's like color difference on certain areas or yellowing or something just not the way it was what it was fresh and brand new.. typically on cars of medium badness it will not revert back to that level of madness for like 4-5 years..
But yes that's definitely more than a year.. sorry this I've ever had somebody come back to redo their headlights was well over two years and they were an extreme case.. it's on one of my videos.. they drove about 300 miles a day for 2 years... Thanks for the question..
They set the bar super low merely as a disclaimer this only applies generally to a very small percentage of lazy car owners or like I said extreme car owners.. plus there's other variabilities depending on what light structure you have.. anything forward facing or AKA facing the sun more time of the day which is generally a vertical facing section of the headlight is more susceptible to damage a couple hundredfold...
ua-cam.com/video/OKgJajX1H-I/v-deo.html
How do I get my headlights to be in one of your videos? lol… for reals, I’m located in Cali, do you have some way I can contact you? I’ll make the drive to where ever your at
Can I ask why you don't use water when sanding?
Much much inferior....like training wheels. Very inconsistent and you will never achieve the clarity that you need nine times out of 10.. and like I said with the inconsistency you could do 10 lights and all 10 lights will come out different quality.. this has to do with a lot of problems with wet sanding... Not enough heat.... Very hard to see and know your depth of how far you need to go... Gross and it's very messy.. professional... But that's quite a bit of reasons why those are just some of the top of my head of the number ones.. but even besides quality one of the biggest ones is that you can possibly do as good as a job with power tools.. drills go anywhere already at the tools that I'm using go anywhere between 1700 RPM and 7800 RPM... How close do you think you can mimic that by hand.. if you're an athlete probably about 90 to 100 RPM.. 1000% no comparison.. it's very remedial metaphorically it's like walking compared to driving...
It takes an astronomical amount of more time a lot of people lie about it because the shy that they using an inferior method..
But on average doing a headlight by hand sanding only will take you probably about about 30 minutes to an hour depending upon skill level.... With power tools you not only achieve a better quality outcome but it only will take you somewhere between 10 min and 20 minutes a light...much farther and better..
Check out this video here...
ua-cam.com/video/eoPKK-trHdg/v-deo.html
@The Headlight Restoration Pro I will try that method tomorrow.... thank you for the tip
Just take it slow you don't have to go as fast as I do.. and also watch your pressure it takes very little pressure to push against the light..🦾
What should I do if I grinded the pint of out of the car. Has this ever happened to you with a client? just happened to me
Do you mean the paint?
Got it..
The best thing to do is not damage somebody's vehicle... If this happens you need to reevaluate if you're doing what it takes to protect your vehicle correctly if you're not masking off.. like actually creating a cast around the headlight you're doing something wrong. Prevention is King. If you're not using the proper tape which automotive finish tape is highly scratch resistant.. then you're doing something wrong... As far on how to fix it that's a whole another video of explanations... I do provide the service but it would take me a video of of explanation to explain it to you a similar makeup which is basically a scratch removal is the only video that I have besides how that restoration posted now..
This might help you so check it out...
Other than that the best thing is to do is apologize if you can't fix it and hope it's not that bad...ua-cam.com/video/EEKv-L-G8GY/v-deo.html
Also check out this video the proper way to tape up a vehicle looks like this..
This is one of the only videos that I have up about taping off vehicles is actually one of the most important videos I have up...🫵🏽👀ua-cam.com/video/tDuyrgoj6-k/v-deo.html
If my headlights aren’t yet fogged or discolored, (they only have some eroded clear coat along the top) then do I still need to perform the whole process? Would just using the spray protection keep the remaining clear coat intact?
Good question it's a rule of thumb if there's any bad you start from scratch redo the whole headlight... It's very rare occasion where it's okay to not.. and it takes a lot of skill to do it without it shining through.. meaning being quite visible that there's a difference between one part of the light and the next. I highly wouldn't recommend trying this is not even for skilled person unless absolutely necessary for some reason. I already discussed the number two reason because you will see the difference and different spots of light sooner or later.. the number one reason is that when one part starts going bad that's just the part that is most exposed to the damage by sun or whatever other environmental factors.. you got to think as a clear coat and a headlight as one unit so if one piece is going bad what does that mean for the rest of the unit or the rest of the clear coat? Exactly it's due to expire sooner than not.. what you have is you think you cropped out this bad area that would sound like his wife on your lights didn't think about how soon around that area past the border of the stuff you removed along with the other spots the headlight will go bad underneath the clear coat that you freshly applied and or faster than the top coat of clear coat.. I have learned this the hard way and it almost always will expire much faster than it was supposed to because of this more aged clear coat underneath. It's best and like I said recommended to just do the whole thing. Then you know everything is fine clean cut and a unit with a time limit that is universal throughout the whole headlight... Especially if you're selling a product.. it's a rare times that I do this but my experience level is quite high and I only do this if it is a certain type of headlight and a certain type of hardness in the clear coat which would take me a long time to explain...👍🏽💯
@@theheadlightrestorationpro Yes, thank you, that does make sense. I don't know if it makes any difference to your answer, but the remaining clear coat is the factory clear coat and I have yet to do a headlight restore on this car (2016 Mazda6 so it lasted 7 years). Isn't the factory clear significantly more durable than the spray-on clear protectant used in restores? I get that it would be very hard to fair in the transition between the factor and new spray-on to get it seamless but might it help the remaining factory coating to last a bit longer? I feel like once I start the headlight restore process, I'm going to need to redo it at least annually. Perhaps as you say it's just time to bite the bullet and take it all back to bare plastic and recoat?
You have a vehicle that is prone to go bad.. the way your headlights are constructed...
You going to want to redo it all trust me or it's just going to bite you in the butt way sooner than you will need headlight restoration again.. if you wanted to last longer as long as it can you need to watch this video.. this is one of the single most important things of have that restoration after it's done.. some people don't care and they're like okay I'll just do it every 2 years but if you wanted to last longer and don't want to have to pay for it again for as long as possible you must apply after care..
ua-cam.com/video/kIur4XxYjDk/v-deo.html
👍🏽😎
yo pro is it just me or are the BMW clearcoats weird and harder to fully sand since they have this weird layer that doesnt sand like any other cars i have done.
Yes.. they're much harder to do... Summer stores don't even do them they refuse to do them... They're a pain in the ass..
@theheadlightrestorationpro thanks upping my price in all bmw effective immediately. would love to see a video of you restoring one and showing us how you do them lol
Have a couple videos of BMWs up...
Just did one today.. it will be posted sooner or later...
Also have another video dropping in about 3 minutes...💯👍🏽
BMWs are in a different.. and general your higher in vehicle should be priced differently... Typically harder.. and even more so expensive ...
Does your headlight process work on plastic side by side windshields?
Not sure ...
Grrreat
💯👍🏽😂 awesome..
Is there another option instead of 3M Lens and Hard Plastic Cleaner? It appears to be out of stock EVERYWHERE!
Nothing that will be as good.. you can use a lot of stuff but nothing will be as good
Lexi also just did a 5 second search on Google and pulled up about six places that has it
How much do you charge for a restoration? I just bought a pair of replacements for my 2013 Hyundai for $115 🤷🏼♂️. Bumper removal, swap and aim is a :30 min process.
You're about to be in a world of trouble if you paid $15 for two headlights for a 2013 vehicle..lol
Those headlights are probably so cheaply made in aftermarket it's insane you got to be careful of what you buy out there some people will sell you turds for the price of gold..
You should never buy aftermarket.... Euro Liam headlights are worth so much.... There's a reason why you see your OEM headlights are probably five times that much.... Huge reason... 😂 He will for surely see soon.... ua-cam.com/video/LcMFr0mpp-4/v-deo.htmlsi=cGorS1DeY1oj85DX
Ok. It would be so helpful if you wrote a script with steps and just outlined them.
Step 1 do this, Determine cloudiness level. 1, 2, 3, or 4.
Stop 2 do this Wash and wipe
Step 3 do this With level 1 start with this grit 800 use these brand of discs and holders. use with ater, or not ? They are available at Home Depot or .....
Step 4 do this with level 2 start with this grit. Always move through these 3 grits? or 4 or 5? Whatever you recomend. At
Step 5
STOP TALKING AND ORGANIZE YOUR MIND AND YOUR THOUGHTS INTO SEQUENCES WE CAN USE.
Otherwise your just going round and round and not making too much sense.
If there is a brand name product tell us where in the steps to use it and where it is available.
Do you get it?
There were valuable tips in here but it's so disorganized I have no idea where to begin on my headlights. and how to walk myself through this method. Totally lost.
Have a really organized person help you write this out. and help you write a script. read the script and stop ab libbing! I'ts crazy making. Double stuff? Cmon man organize this.
Thanks,
Greg