Highback Forward Lean Adjustment // How much and what for?
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
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Adjust the forward lean on your snowboard bindings to match your boot and riding style! More forward lean on your highbacks means quicker and more powerful heel edge response - but too much is too much!
Here are some tips and things to look out for when you get there!
These are the best videos around for nerding out on the finer points in snowboarding 👍 thanks for putting these out.
Thanks man!! Much appreciated!!
100% agree!
@@iamkeir ha, too kind! Thanks man!!
This is the best channel for snowboard info on UA-cam. Mature, respectful, informative and attention to detail.
Been riding along time and did my first season in hard ski boots 30 years ago, so I understand the importance of using forward lean. But I always learn something when watching your videos even if it’s just a validation of my style of riding or thoughts on equipment.
There is So much bad advice out there, its nice to see someone take the time to educate and provide us with such detailed knowledge rather than bullshit reviews trying to sell a product or brand that have sponsored the channel.
Well done!! 👏👏👏👏🤙🤙
....and that is exactly why I got on this mission.... We've both been seeing the same thing for too long... I'm so happy about your words. You appreciate what I intended to bring across, that is so awesome! Thank you very much!
Good work. You communicate in English better than most native speakers explaining any of this on YT. I also run more FL on back foot
I appreciate that!
This is a fantastic series. I've been riding since the 90's and I'm learning things from you that make so much sense. Thanks for making and posting these Lars.
Thank you so much!!
Lars thanks for making this great video. Your tip in the other video about stance width being relative to width of your heels and why a duck stance can be wider than a posi/posi stance but still relatively same heel to heel distance helped me to tighten up heel side carves today. The tip is so simple yet I don’t think I ever would have thought of that on my own. Again I appreciate your clarification on back foot preferring more forward lean in posi/posi stance. Thank you
Thanks man! I'm glad my stuff is helpful to you!!
I am amazed that every video I find we have so much in common. From our boots, to our stance angles to our forward lean prefences. I am glad I organically learned a lot of this knowledge, but I still wish I had this info years ago.
I deffinetly learn a bit more each video. Thank you!
Great explanation, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience 🙂🙌
Thank you!! My pleasure! :-)
Recently got into carving way more as the snow at the moment in the backcountry ist not great and went from +18/+3 to +27/+9 and more forward lean on the highbacks… way more fun! I‘m even keeping that setup for powder.
Fascinating!
Another topic well explained!
What I like about your videos is that you have already mentioned multiple topics in other videos and explained a little bit over there.
So like now with this video, the things you have said, explained, it's easier to understand because i'm hearing it twice but now with an in depth explanation!
(I hope I'm making any Sense!)
I appreciate the time and Knowledge you put in these videos!
Awesome! Thank you!!🙏
I appreciate your content my friend. 👍✌️
That's great! I appreciate you watching it! 🙂
Pleased I found you’re channel Lars. Great content. I ride posi posi ever since my hardboot days. I ride a variety of medium stiff to stiff bindings and ions, insanos and tridents primarily. Much like you I ride with more forward lean on my rear high back. On a resort day I sometimes ride step ons and last season had some great success in micro adjusting my rear foot high back lean. The Burton step ons do not have a asymmetrical high back so to create this which assists me in heel side carves I have offset the 2 screws on the one highback. Maybe in my mind but I certainly felt like my heel side carves were some of the best in 35 years of riding. Certainly helps with the quality of performance gear and boards these days. Great videos thanks Lars. We ride a lot of Korua,Endeavor,Salomon and Burton here in NZ would love to have a link to your boards if possible. I am half Swedish and half kiwi living on the other side of the world. Lucky I still have family there. Thanks for your great information every little bit helps us all fine tune our gear and riding. 🤙🏂
Hi mate I’m using step on for carving as well can you elaborate on the adjustment you made to your high backs please.
I’m taking it that the 2 screws you referenced are the forward lean adjustment screws and that you’ve screwed in one side more than the other to twist/rotate the high back? Is that correct?
Thank you very much!! I appreciate your comment!! I ride Stranda snowboards. www.strandasnowboards.com/
There is a distributor in NZ. You find him on Instagram under @strandasnowboardsnz
Stranda is Swedish, too! ;-)
Take care!!
I got the same liners 🔥
For medium-to-short radius skidded turns, it can be advantageous to have an extra notch of forward lean on the back foot. I was taught to break the turn down into segments (i.e., a two or four count), and you want to progressively edge more throughout the turn, finishing off with a spike for performance. Lower forward lean on the front helps prevent me from edging too much early, and the extra notch on the back helps a bit with the spike at the end of the turn sequence.
I'm figuring out this idea of getting more edge angle on the heelside carves, and here's something interesting: the highest edge (angulation) comes from completely straight legs and locked knees. The more you bend your knees, the more you sacrifice edge angle. Of course, riding with locked legs is a terrible idea! But i found it interesting that keeping your legs somewhat straighter lets you get that board up higher on edge.
When you talk about driving the edge with your front foot more than your back foot, i wonder if your knees are also bent at slightly different angles, and how your weight is distrubuted on the board. There are so many factors to consider!
Yup! I hear ya! And yes, my knees are bent differently and my ankles.... I rode with more highback forward lean on my backfoot, too.
I started using forward lean in 08/09 (still remember the day!) and one of the first things I found was that I preferred a little more on the rear, even though I was riding a duck stance at the time. The more forward my stance became, the more difference from front to back was "required." Currently on NOW drives, I have one click in front, and max in the rear. Definitely varies between brands/adjuster style. I think on Union it was 1 & 3, and Burton was something like F3 & F7
I also started differential forward lean 2 on the front and 4 on the back foot .
Your last point is spot on…different terrain and style drives a lot of this. In my experience, if you want a heel side carve to be as tight/small as a toe turn you will need a good amount of forward lean to accomplish this and get that response - Especially if riding duck (symmetrical or otherwise)…HOWEVER that setup is sick for carving, for going more ‘gripped’ or short radius non-carved turns in steep terrain it will often result in TOO much edge angle and result in that skipping/chatter feeling on your heel edge. It’s all a balance…ideally you just have different boards for different things. That said, if you have just one board…somewhere in the middle (F3-ish on Burton bindings) is probably best for most people IMO
Thanks for the comment! Personally I find that chatter occurs on the heel side when there's either not enough edge angle (as in: you lose edge angle...) or when the tip travels a different arc than the tail through torsional twist at the wrong time. I wish I knew for sure!! Then I could fix it for good... hahaha :-)
I found that on steeper slopes i put more forward lean.( probably because i bend my knees more) So many factors are at play here...! Keep experimenting...!
Snowboard boots have an angle of around +/- 75° which is roughly F3 on the highback forward lean.
"Leaning forward on the back foot" - it's not only you :D I've discovered that to myself just today :D
Thanks Lars for this spot on and very comprehensive tutorial. What is your stance (pun intended) on highback rotational adjusments ? Happy new year to everyone !
Thank you! Glad you like my stuff. HB rotation episode is coming this week! ;-)
I discovered No backs and ride the K2 HB with Kamas boots. I can carve pretty well for an old dude.
Great video, it's amazing to see all your tips and advice. I'm going to be looking to try out your tips in stance width and interplay of binding angles and width too. Thank you so much for posting all this, you're making people's days on the mountain better.
In this video you talk specifically about calf bite. Do you have any suggestion on adjusting binding angles to reduce calf bite? Especially on my front binding, I get a lot of calf pain even if I use just the step 2-3 of forward lean, so about half the limit. This makes me think maybe some of the bite can be eliminated by changing the binding angle, but it's just so many variables it's difficult to figure out what to change. Rotate it forward? Or maybe slide it more towards heel edge? Ugggh...
Thanks for such a kind comment!
Well.... there's two solutions: go with even less forward lean, or check whether you actually bend your knees as much as you think you do. Have someone film you! The first time someone filmed me I had my world turned upside down. The person in the video was not what I was feeling when I was riding.... I basically wasn't bending my knees at all...
Sometimes too wide of a stance can contribute to calf bit when combined with greater amounts of FWDL.
Good luck!!
I normally ride slight duck stance and still have more forward lean on back binding. It just feels more natural to me.
I’m riding a carve and powder riding setup with +18 0. Been finding that I also like less on my front foot. It’s good for holding the heel edge but man it hurts my calves otherwise.
Thanks for your videos, I would like to ask about the toe strap of your NOW Drive Pros, the one in the video does not look like the stock version, is that a custom one?
It's the old Drive strap on the ankle and a Burton 'Over The Toe Strap' as a toe strap. I don't like toe cap straps as they create more material that drags in the snow and I want my toes to get pushed down rather than back...
The ankle strap on the new Drive Pro is great, but with my current boot liners it creates a pressure point coming from the liner, so I put an old strap on there. Easy peasy! :-)
I know this question is out of topic. What do you think about ride superpig, did you ride it? especially for carving, and what makes stranda board that you reccoment better than other volume shifted directional boards for carving? thanks and i can't wait for the next video to learn something!
I find the Pigs have too tight of a radius, but that is entirely preference!! They're not that great for steeper, faster carving. Mellower terrain is fun on such boards!
Strandas are generally a bit stiffer torsionally. The boards are all thickest in the centre. That contributes to edge grip, but kills a bit of playfulness. The Stranda Biru carves insanely well and still has a tight radius, but not quite as tight as some of the Pigs. If you want a Pig for carving, go with the Mountain Pig. If you want volume shift for carving, go with the Biru.
Hey, which board did you end up getting? :-)
What do you think about the wrs style liners Lars? I have a pair of power wraps I haven’t molded yet, unmolded they seem a bit too burly for soft shell boots
Wrap *
Personal preference. Nothing bad to say about them. My ankles are too skinny for them. They're never tight enough. Otherwise love the idea.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel thanks for the reply... trying to dial out my boot fit and its been pretty annoying with skinny narrow feet... Been going to intuition here since im here in Vancouver and they've been trying to help me out but its tricky. I wish boot manufactures gave more info about the shells like ski boots... almost makes me want to switch to skiing lmao
Hi , very inspiring and educational for me. I noticed that you changed the liners of your ride insano... intuition, what model are you using? and why if possible. THANKS
Well spotted! Watch my #3/3 on boots!
I ride Intuition because the fit and customizability is so much better... Ride Intuition liners only contain 50% of that foam.... that's what I've been told, and there's definitely a difference.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel cool tanks..
But what is the model name?
@@patricevilleneuve5547 oh sorry.... I have an older pair of the FX-Race and a new pair of the 2023/24 Tongue liners in dual density, low volume (9mm). It's utterly dependent on your shell fit and foot shape....
I don't know if I've ever ridden with the exact same binding setup two days in a row. I'm constantly messing with them.
I find that my calves hurt by the end of the day and are super tight. Almost feels like I'm using them too much.
Haven't played around with lean angles before, hopefully that fixes it!
Could be a boot issue. Any cramping can come from overly tensing up muscles, which often comes from too little support from the boot - boots too big do that!! So many things could lead to this... Also, maybe you just need to bend the knees more?! Play with it! I'm sure you'll figure it out.
What are your thoughts on high back rotation?
I made a video about that. Called spin to win. Check it out.
Hello I used to have snowboard boots for around 15 years and now I bought new boots. Using the new boots I find it more difficult to change to the toe edge. Is this happening because the boots are new and stiff or should I adjust the forward lean? What adjustments can I make in order to make the toe edge change easier?
Could be stiffness.... Are they too big, maybe?? Do you have more heel than toe overhang??
I had more heel overhang I saw another video that you have and made the overhang to be equal to toes and heels and now it is perfect! Thank you
@@chrisk4132 awesome!!
8:43 is the TL;DR - Try it and see what works.
I do not get the question at all, next thing people will ask other riders is what size boot they have to then go and buy that size instead of their own. 😜
With modern tool-less adjustments it is a lot less effort to try on the mountain than e.g. stance widths. The change is also pretty obvious, it only takes very few turns to notice "something being wrong".
The extremes show up easily in very flat terrain, when you are just very subtly leaning into one or the other edge - if the BS feels catchy even though you have pressure on your toes there is too much forward lean, if you take pressure off the toes and slightly lean back but end up flatbasing when you normally would be on the edge already, there is not enough forward lean.
I think I disagree with the duck part - I never rode fully symmetric duck, but at my +12 / -9 duck I do have a notch more on the front. I could also see your argument for more on the back work with duck in theory, because just because your feet are duck does not mean you do not open up your hips at all, right? (Or maybe that is why symmetric duck is not for me... 🤷)
For my positive stance, I have a notch more on the back foot, else the front foot was too dominantly engaging the edge even at the end of the heel side carve, so I agree there. 🙂
I am looking at a Korua cafe racer for carving. Do you have any experience with Korua boards? 🙏
Yes, plenty. I've ridden just about all of them.
Korua makes great boards for powder and carving. For carving they really shine on mellower angle slopes. The sidecuts they put on most of their boards tend to finish turns more openly, and it is more work to steer them more across the hill to control your speed. In mellower terrain this is not an issue and can be fun. My mountain is steep and narrow, so I prefer Stranda snowboards for carving. They enter turns a bit easier due to softer nose flexes, and they hold their arc a bit better when steering across the hill at the end of a turn as a result of the amount of taper and their sidecuts. Watch this video in its entire length!! I'm explaining all of it there:
ua-cam.com/video/wUAhbVN14JY/v-deo.htmlsi=2_jjayEE1ZkPBur8
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel How about Amplid boards? Any impressions on them for carving?
I agree with Lars I ride a Korua CR 164 size 11 US boot 183cm tall , 78 kg with strong ex rugby legs😂 I pair with Insanos or Ions and stiff bindings. This set up rips but it is day of being on my game and full on as it likes speed and has to be hard on edge to get the most out of it and needs a mountain wide open and for me I like big drawn out carves and turns as I attempt to replicate big front and backhand surf bottom turns. It is summer here now I am hanging out for winter however our wave/swell season normally starts near me mid Jan early Feb so waves it is.
@@mackakiwinz4353 I'm looking at the 159 or the 164. I'm 190 cm and 90 kg with 11.5 us boots. I realise 164 should be my choice but was wondering if i can get away with the 159 because it might be more nimble untill i saw Lars video explaining sidecut and how the board bends.
@@MinamiX3 I've never ridden one. I assume they're great, because Peter Bauer knows a thing or two about carving...
However, as a board tech I've seen some poor quality on them here and there, and I've heard a bunch of stories around quality issues with their split boards. Take that with a grain of salt... people break all kinds of stuff.... But yeah, not certain about the quality.
Sometimes I wonder how many common snowboard problems could be solved by going hardboot. I'm about to return to riding snowboard after 15+ years and my boot of choice is Key-equipment Disruptives because I want to move to Splitboarding. That said, I think the modern splitboard hard-boot could be just enough for all riding(?)
Yeah, I agree 100%.... I wish they made hardboots with smarter flexes. I could ride my Atomic Backland splitboard boot on the hill, no problem. The Key Equipment are supposed to be pretty awesome, too.
Yeah I agree to would love to get back on some of my older narrower carving boards with hard boots. Major problem here in New Zealand is no hardboots for sale. However I have found insanos, ions and tridents paired with Quantum’s, Flux TM, X base, Step ons, Genesis X etc to be a pretty responsive binding especially for carving with Custom X, Korua Cafe racer Salomon Super 8 pro etc make for some pretty responsive fun carving.
A good tip is to get someone to film your heelside turns. If you find you are sticking your butt out in order to maintain your heelside edge then you probably need more angle on your highbacks.
I get where you're coming from with this, but sticking the butt out is much likelier a result of not opening the chest and hips to the riding direction, being stuck in that 'duck stance poop squad', as my friend Spenser calls it. Heel turns are damn difficult to get in check, and HB forward lean will help with getting the board on edge, but not really with anything that is wrong above the knees.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channeldamn, calling me out! Haha
I agree - way before highback angle, I think sticking your butt out on heelside turns is a technique/skill thing. I'm sure there are folks who are doing it even more because they lack leverage from the highback, but I think they'd still do it with forward lean.
You dont turn as much with your high back when turning at slow speeds to hit rail features. Thats why you don't "need" forward lean. All jump riders use it though
@@jiblyjably it’s also less responsive and therefore more forgiving without lean. Comes in handy on a rail when you try to avoid catching those edges… 😅
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel rail and street riding is just another part of snowboarding. It’s dope, turning is dope, jumps are dope, big mountain is dope, snowboarding is dope.
@@jiblyjably agreed!
Forward lean is power
no lean is ankle precision
There’s definitely a degree where you need something to push into….