Just ordered an aquila for a first printer think this will be the first thing I print, been watching a bunch of your videos on it all day thankyou they are great
Well, I watched this when it came out. I thought "My printer is still brand new. I'll worry later." Then, a month or so ago, I watched it again. I thought "I should really print at LEAST the level, cause you never know." But I never printed it. This weekend, I had some trouble. Partly a clogged nozzle. Replaced it, leveled the bed, began a print.....filament not moving. As a last resort, I took the lever off, and......exactly what you showed had happened. Kicked myself several times for not printing a replacement. Had to order parts, and can't print until tomorrow at the earliest (depends on when they get here). So, go ahead and say "I told you so" because you did.
I'm trying to get ahead of this. I knew these plastic extruder parts weren't going to last long. It would be worth the extra couple bucks for Voxelab to sell these units with a metal extruder in the first place. Surely it couldn't bump up the cost that much and it would be a welcome improvement
@@3DPrintSOS I've been running mine almost non stop since I got it, close to three months now. I'm counting my lucky stars that it hasn't broken yet. Going to print this up tonight, in fact I was just logging onto my pc to slice this bad boy up!
Great design. And I'm so glad I printed this ahead of time. It was one of the last things I printed before my lever cracked and I started having problems. Thanks for your work on this and sharing it with everyone else.
Thank you for all the information and how to videos. I picked up a Voxelab Aquila about a month ago and I have been hooked. You have been very helpful in helping me in not becoming frustrated with my baby steps into hobby printing. Enjoy the cup of coffee!!
Love this, I used to be very into printing my own extruders but the printed parts would always fail. I’m glad to see people are still working on printed extruders. Keep up the great work!
Fedor, this is a terrific addition to my printer! I printed this last night and installed it today. It works great and there's no worries about those couplers failing, Thank you very much! BTW, it is MUCH easier to install the pivot bolt first and then the spring :^)
Thanks for this! I printed the extruder parts about a week ago, and decided to install today since my filament tangled and broke in the middle of a 17-hour print. Found out that the lever was broken when I took it apart! Maybe this was the cause of my stringing issues for the last couple weeks.
watching this again and I have to laugh because you installed that arm in one take without cussing or throwing a wrench across the room. You're a very patient guy.
@@3DPrintSOS just took mine off the printer, came out almost perfect except the bracket but I don't think I need that anyway. Now I need to drag my lazy butt to the hardware store for a couple bolts. Thank you
@@3DPrintSOS im addicted to your channel since I got my aquila. THANK YOU! I'm going to be printing out your extruder parts tomorrow morning. I have to get the hardware. The only thing that would possibly improve this video would be a cura profile for tpu. But humbly, you have done so much already. Again thank you!
Randomly bought the Aquila on a whim last night for my first 3d printer. Your videos help me feel good about the purchase. I'd like to see a more in depth video on Cura from you if possible. You explain things easily compared to some others. Keep up the good videos!
@@3DPrintSOS Have another request.. how about changing filament mid print video because you ran out or maybe want to change color. Just an idea for your idea box.
I plan on doing this ASAP. I just got my printer a few days ago, but I've been using it non-stop. I want to fix the problem before it happens. Btw, your videos have been so helpful to. I've watched every single one of them. I'm a noob, but I'm learning thanks to you. 👍🏻
So, I printed this last night @50% infill with PLA like suggested and I noticed I had to drill out the screw hole on the lever at the pivot point to 4mm to clear the shoulder of the existing bolt(not a problem, I had the tools/drill press). I haven’t installed the Bowden tube side yet but I’m thinking after I caliper the tube and the hole I might need drill that out too (if necessary). I’m not sure if the problems are on my side or what but I made sure my bed was level and extruder was calibrated. Overall it’s a nice part. I understand it’s 3D printed so it can’t be 100% perfect so No fault to you. Just posting my experience. I appreciate your page and all that you do. Thanks for posting stuff like this!
It’s just a matter of tubing and printer calibration. It’s not all the same unfortunately. Careful though because of you drill out too much, the tubing might slip out during the print. Also, when you tighten the nut, keep a piece of filament in the tube. That way, it won’t squeeze the ptfe tube too much. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS definitely, thanks for that information. I would assume Too tight would also cause the filament to drag which would cause unforeseen issues. On a side thought. Can I just use the lever or does it need to be a complete set? Will it bother anything just to replace the lever aside from looks and the stupid extruder tube coupler?
Hi Fedor, I’m having an issue using this where at minimum tension, it seems to allow the filament to not be grabbed properly, but if I tighten it just a hair, it seems like the filament gets warped after going through the gear. I think it is because the bearing is not directly across from the gear, but is sort of at an angle. Do you think I assembled it wrong? Or have any idea what is going on here?
Hmm im not sure what you mean exactly without seeing it. However, there should be a PTFE tube directly after the gear. So there shouldnt be any space for anything to get warped.
Thanks for another great video! One suggestion for doing this replacement to make access easier is too raise the Z gantry all the way to the top and zip tie it to the top cross member (if you haven't done the anti-backlash nut upgrade) - that way you have much easier access to all of those screws. Just make sure you have that towel on your bed and support that motor with your hand so it doesn't drop when you remove the final screw! 😁
As long as your hotend can reach all the way to right of its travel without being limited, I would trip it up a bit or just buy some new tubing. It’s rather inexpensive and has lots of other benefits. :) amzn.to/2WeOPuF
@@3DPrintSOS hallo Fedor, i did buy new tubing mainly to use for PETG, but I couldn't take out the original tube from the nozzle side. I tried pulling but can't press down the ring. Any advise there? It never had a bowden tube clip to lock or remove in the first place 🤔
I printed the whole deal but I just couldn't get the ptfe tube in the part with the printed nut. I could force a piece with plyers from the bearing side in but barely. It was soo tight. I finally got it in but it was still too tight a fit that the tube crushed enough that it would put too much tension on the filament inside. So I put that stock part on and used the arm that I printed.
Since every printer isn’t calibrated exactly the same, it sounds like yours is printing a bit too much filament. Try to reduce the flow by 5-7% and try again. Another thing you can do is negative horizontal expansion. That can also help you with fitment.
@@3DPrintSOS I'll give that a try. I'm running a print right now for a buddy's kid. I hope it works. I've started having issues with it this past few days. I just signed up as a Patreon
Hello, I am trying to print out the parts for this but they are coming out poorly, and are not sticking to the bed. I'm using the aquila profile that was made on here a while back, and I did set the infill and resolution to what was used on the thingiverse webpage.
Thanks! There was nothing special done though. I printed them flat with supports on. The infill is 100% on this print. As for supports, the only “trick” here is you need block the supports from printing inside the block and lever holes. So you use the block support feature in Cura and drag it and size it so the hole in both the block and lever where the filament would travel is blocked. The rest is just the Aquila being the Aquila. Damn good prints.
@@3DPrintSOS alright, so on the lever for example, is the hole with the bearing thing printing mid air onto supports on the outside? I'm very new to 3d printing and just bought the Aquila based on your reviews and videos
Supports will be generated in there and it should perfectly. After which point you just snap out the supports with some pliers. :). Don’t forget, you can preview this in Cura before committing to the print.
@@3DPrintSOS alright, I'm printing theextrudor block flat with supports as we speak, hopefully it turns out alright, I'll take a picture and share it on here when it's done.
Awesome. When you go to tighten the nut, give it some muscle. Haha. Right on the verge of snapping. Lol. That’s how to ensure the ptfe won’t snap. I personally make it tight, start a print and then tighten a hair before, during, and after. Eventually, you should use all of the threads.
I'm having trouble unscrewing the original Lever.. Is there a specific allen wrench that I'm supposed to be using? The ones that came with the printer wont allow me to unscrew the screw thats next to the bearing but I'm able to unscrew everything else.. Could that just be a factory issue in that it was screwed on too tightly or what? This screw is the last one preventing me from removing the original parts :(
Can you use the screws that printer comes with or do you have buy new ones, if so where can you can get the screws for the cheapest? Thanks for the video!
I’m not sure if those screws come with the printer. I don’t think they do. You would losen the screw that is on the lever. Too much and your extruder with skip. So, be aware.
Thanks for this. The M-6 pneumatic connector failed for me. twice. Your clamping systems seems to be more robust and inherently not over engineered (less likely to fail.) testing it out this morning.
oof. so after 3 prints my brandnew printer suddenly started being crappy and i spent half a day cleaning the nozzle, cleaning the bed, drying filament, trying out different ones, leveling the bed, changing settings, changing the feeder tube with a better one. then i checked the feeder and sure enough the lever was broken. NOW i saw your video. Ordered a metal one for like 10$ because this one isnt gona print anymore replacement ones 😂 (sure theyd have probably sent me one for free but itd be a crappy one again) anyways i really recommend people to print this like right now or at least buy a sturdier one.
@@3DPrintSOS your vids were/are still very helpful 😁 btw i remember somebody or maybe you too mentioning the steppermotors getting rather hot sometimes and adjusting the voltage via voltmeter on the motherboard so nothing gets fried, do you have any visual guidance/advice how to check/fix that maybe?
@@3DPrintSOS that would be grand! i saw some for the ender but then people mentioned that the values all differ for the different versions. i'm guessing aquila v1 & v2 have their own values as well...
I mean, don’t let me stop you from going PETG. If you can do it, I’d just go PETG right away then. I don’t have a printers that’s always in an enclosure.
Hi Fedor, got myself capricorn xs tube, while im trying to get the nut tight, it wont let the filament go through....i need to get the nut almost loose so the filament can pass, any tips? Thank You
Capricorn has very little tolerances so that makes sense. What I would do is put a piece of filament in the tube while you clamp it. Then keep clamping it down as far down as you can before feeling a lot of drag on the filament
@@Cougar169 you can coat the outside of the tube in a tiny bit of elmers and then insert it and let it dry. You’ll still be able to remove it later, but it’ll hold it in place really well. If it’s an issue, that is.
After a month, and it broke. I'm glad I saved this video before I actually bought the printer. Having issues the last week or so, and that was the issue. I had to drill out one hole, but that might be on me. The printer has been perfect aside from this.
You had me concerned that my tensioner went bad. Tried some new filament and after a day or so the extruder would make a clicking sound and stop feeding. Switched back to a trusted known good brand and it's running fine. This is going to be one of the first things I print to have on hand.
Hi, Thanks for the files for the parts. I'm gonna need some tpu parts and was super happy to find your video. Just a à quick question.. What is the stepper mount for.. You don't talk about it in the video. Or at least I don't think so. Thanks again.. Rom
This will fit all creality ender 3’s too right? I just bought an ender 3 pro (microcenter deal) so I figured I should bite the bullet before the arm cracks on me
Hi, sorry but my English is so bad that I use translator, I read in the description you leave this: NOTE: The block should be printed standing upward with the threads pointing up. Supports are a must and should be setup from the print bed only. The translator makes a translation that does not make it clear to me what is really the correct position in which I should position the piece to be printed in the best way as you describe, could you say it in other words so that I understand it or so that the translator translates it correctly?
I'm told there are issues with the all metal extruders on some designs as the gear grinds on the metal surface as there is no spacer to prevent this so plse be careful what one you buy if your going down that route! Would have thought its an easy job to just add the cable clip onto the thingiverse designed extruder before you printed it out? Great vid thxs!
I got my Aquila about a week ago and have printed with all the free filament and some of a spool but not too much. It will not feed the filament anymore. It is not the brass looking gear slipping on the chrome/silver motor shaft it seems like the motor is not turning at all. Every hear of this? What do you think?
Hmm. First thing to check is the lever. Make sure it’s not cracked around the bearing. Super common on these machines. Also make sure your nozzle isn’t clogged. Get the hotend up to 230 and push filament though manually until it’s flowing super smoothly. Then back down to 200 and try again. You can also look up hot to do a cold pull.
@@3DPrintSOS I checked and manually pushed the filament through while holding the spring lever down. It fed nice. I went into Control/Move and changed the 0.0 on extruder to 20.00 to see if it would feed some and the motor shaft did not turn. Do you think it burned out? I called Amazon and they are sending a whole new machine and i am sending the one back. It is awesome and i will always stick with this brand now. I am going to do the upgrade you did in this video. It will be my first print! Thank you for your knowledge!!
Hey. I typically don’t. Only because you have to change esteps higher than the stock firmware let’s you. It’s easy to get around with pronterface or octoprint though. I hear these are great: amzn.to/3L67X1i I’ll buy one to test
@@3DPrintSOS there’s one on the bar and one under it. It’s a like a stopper for it to be leveled It’s the nozzle goes all the way to the left but it’s like keeps going and making a wired noise the same thing when it goes down .
Ah the z limit switches. How do you know they broke? It sounds like they maybe aren’t plugged in. This happens when you try to home the machine and it just rams it and clicks? Check to make sure they are plugged in correctly and into the right ones. If the wires are plugged into the wrong ones, the order would be wrong and they trigger correctly.
Love the suggestions and upgrades. Kindof a side question for people living in the US. Do you reccomend a metric hardware kit on Amazon that would be best for 3D print mods? I find that with all the variation of hardware I am wanting a kit where I have various sizes of hardware in case I need them.
I have tried to print the base 3 times and the threads have blobs/globular stuff on the bottom part of the threads. Then I saw that it needs supports. My question is how do I know where to put supports or does CURA figure that out? It seems it would be stronger to print laying down, but that seems to be a problem for the Aquila. Any help greatly appreciated!
I would like to install a dual drive extruder (bondtech) on m’y Aquila. The gearing ratio is 3 to 1 with the Bondtech and I can’t set the extruder step/minute to the right « ratio ». Is there a way to fixe my problem? Thank’s for help and thank’s for your videos, they are very helpful !!! Marco
Hi, Thanks for your videos. Got an Aquila a month ago - first printer and it has been going non stop since. I will print this to have in hand in case mine breaks. What settings do you suggest for the supports and what is the best way of removing the inside supports? Thanks in advance. Paul
I cannot for the life of me get the tube to slip all the way through to the gears. I know you said theres supposed to be tension but I spent about an hour attempting. Any tips? Maybe it didn't print correctly.
You can take a round file or drill bit to it. But don’t take too much off. ;). OR reprint it with some horizontal expansion. Every printer will print that spot a hair differently.
printing this on my ender 3 for when my printer comes later today. the instructions say print at 50%. can it be printed at 100%? thanks for all the videos.
This is awesome printed it at 0.2 with supports i fought 2 hours lubing the tube and trying to get it in but i did it till now it never moved its mooving from the hotend tho dont you have solution like that with a nut for the hotend :))
The best solution I have for the hotend is an idea I saw Chep do. You cut a small piece of ptfe tube and print a PETG, abs, or nylon spacer and use it to clamp that tube down inside the hotend. It eliminates the moving at the hotend tip itself. Which is nice. I have a video on it “”take your Aquila to the next level...”
Everything changed but I could not use the “rounded one piece extruder lever” cuz the nail did not fit on top into the one I printed, so I put the one that came by default, it works I guess Also I printed the “srepper mount” but since you haven't used it, I didn't use it either, I don't know what it's the use for that Is worth to put the chain for the cables? It bothers me that they are scattered and it looks great
The stepper mount is what I use on my custom machine. It takes the weight of the stepper off the z axis and puts it on the gantry where it doesn’t need to be held up by a motor. ;) I’ve done chains on my Ender. They look good but not necessary and eventually they sag and make noise.
It happened to me today! FML!! The bowden tube unsnapped and Damaged itself . Luckily I have a replacement pptf valve and I'm gonna print this, next I'll get the fan and bl touch upgrades
How do you go about designing something like this? It seems the precision is pretty crucial. I'm familiar with (and have) a professional 3D software, but not sure how I could design something this precise. What is your program for design?
Just a bunch of experimenting. To be honest this was put together tinkercad. Based on a stock block and taped screw someone else designed. So not too too precise actually.
I just ordered this printer as my first ever, how long do I have until I have to start worrying? Should I immediately print this file ? When do these levers usually break? After a month or so ?
I would normally say, don’t worry. But more and more people tell me theirs broke before they got a chance to print one. So do the test prints and try a few prints, then print one of these. Can’t hurt.
I actually made the original in tinkercad by putting together a few other ideas from other brilliant solutions. I user tinkercad for years before actually getting “real” software. So don’t be scared to try. :)
I’m having a problem where the filament pushes the tube out of its place. So i’m unable to print anything right now no matter what I do the filament pushes the tube out. I was just about to print this to have it in case and now I regret not doing it sooner. Anybody know a temporary fix that would allow me to print this So I can just buy the screws instead?
Awesome. My Aquila is all up and running for pla like a drram! I was wondering can this printer handle abs? If so do I need to protect the plate with tape or does the surface that the Aquila have work well enough? Abs is getting cheaper and it would be nice to try and vapour smooth a print.
You could give it a try. Just keep in mind that abs likes to warp when not in an enclosure. Also there are smells associated with abs. With that said, it should be able to handle it just fine.
If it’s already broken, you are out of luck. You can try to glue yours back together and try to just print the lever to get it running. Otherwise, you have to buy one.
Hi I received my Aquila a week ago I set it up and it’s a brilliant printer but my blower fan and hot end fan are always on do you know how I can turn them of ?
*What exactly happened? I read about this being a common problem but I'm not really sure what failed or broke. If I print this extruder lever, will it be strong enough using PLA?*
The part of the lever that holds the bearing tends to crack. When that happens, it looses all tension and the printer will start to severally under extrude regardless of settings. Yes, PLA is plenty strong! :)
@@3DPrintSOS *Is PLA stronger than what OEM uses? or is this mod just better designed? And for those orange spring upgrades that I see many people recommend for levelling, would it be beneficial to use one of those springs for the lever as well? I just want to know should I buy 5 springs or just 4 for the bed.*
The design of the lever is better because there is just more plastic holding the bearing. So it’s structurally stronger. No need for orange spring since it adjusts via a bolt on the lever. The yellow spring has a different inner diameter and won’t fit the block nor the spring perch. ;)
Installed this last night but the base cracked sometimes during a long print. It broke where the flat part of the base meets the front end of the base at the 90 degree angle. I printed the base standing up with the threaded cone pointing upwards. so the layers peeled away from the tension of the sprint. Seems like printing the base flat would solve this, but do the threads come out clean enough doing that?
@@3DPrintSOS Good call. If it breaks, I won't have the opportunity to print it. Today was the first time my Bowden tube popped off the extruder. I can't wait to get the new parts installed. Thanks again for the files.
Great video, thank you. I’m having one small problem that I’m hoping you can help with. I’ve printed your parts out on both my Aquila and my son’s Prusa 3. Both prints ended up with a ridge on the inside of the filament passage that prevents inserting the PTFE tube all the way to the pointed end (where you then cut the tube to match the pointed profile). Thinking I’d made a mistake somewhere, I had my son download the file from scratch and print it again on both printers. Once again, both prints had the same internal ridge. My son thinks that it is an intended design choice to prevent inserting the PTFE tube too far. I then showed him how you insert the tube so far that it extends from the pointed part. He scratched his head, and suggested asking you if there happened to be a version you made without the ridge that didn’t get uploaded to thingiverse. Any chance that is the case, or should I just see if I can find a needle file small enough to smooth the ridge down? Finding a file that small might be a bit hard. :) Edit: BTW, it isn’t support material causing the problem.
Yes that little ridge helps the ptfe tube to not fall out. It adds enough tension to keep it in place and helps the nut do it’s job. You can drill it out, but I find that pushing the ptfe tube past it helps big time in the long run.
@@3DPrintSOS sorry, got one more question :). You mentioned in video that extended rounded one piece extruder leveler can be printed with 100% infill. Is it ok to print all parts with 100% infill or no need?
You can. But 100 is only really nessesary to make really really strong parts. Most parts I print with 4 walls and 15% infill. Sometimes 5 walls and 20% infill. Those are typically strong enough for most applications. But for printer parts, 100 is great if you got the plastic for it.
@@3DPrintSOS your respond time makes subscribers worth 😀! In first place I bought PLA just for these parts to be able to print TPU parts for fpv drone, so I have plenty of material 😁.
Great question. I used supports. I like to use "lines" at 50% density. .2 between. And they pop right off. I did use support blockers on all the holes.
Love the vids, thank you for helping so much w my new hobby! I have a problem with my filament breaking in the extruder. I’ve been using a Voxelab brand PLA Pro. It’s looking like the gear is really digging into the filament. It seems to break about 1/4 the time. The little gear screws are tight. When I take out the filament of the tubing you can see how much the gear has dug into the PLA, in places where it does short back and forths like on a little support you can really see where the filament has gotten really thin, which is why I think it’s the gear. Any thoughts? Thanks again!
@@3DPrintSOS You are the man! Been printing for almost a week now and no issue's with that. Ended up that the spring was a bit bulged out even though the nut was moving loosely out of the box. So I completely unscrewed it and screwed it back together and bingo ;-) Thanks Rock Star!
When you say printing at 300% where is that setting on Cura? Excellent videos I just got my printer yesterday and have watched all your videos and your making a fantastic contribution to the community please keep up the great work. Sent you a cup of coffee on thingiverse this is an awesome addon.. it is my next print to have on hand when mine breaks.
@@3DPrintSOS The time and effort you have put into helping us noobs means a lot as well. Enjoying my printer so much more. Have some PLA+ coming to print this mod out. Or do you suggest something else?
printing this now! xD want to test it on my aquila modded to direct drive , one question tho , is it me or the stepper motors on the aquila are quite hot while printing? , using the included firmware without any mods , ofc i have no reference point , its my first 3d printer ,
Thanks for the designs on thingiverse! Do you plan to cover the various other printable upgrades that could work on the printer? I think you said it didn't need too much a while back but it would be cool to see what could be done!
First of all, thank you for your support. I appreciate the coffee. ;) I’ll probably be featuring a few other things that improve the printer in various ways. But I’d like to keep it minimal since it’s printing so well already. I’m currently printing my newly designed bracket that “tucks” the screen in to the left so it’s not just hanging out there on the side. Follow me on Instagram for more content. :)
Love your videos. Got my Voxelab Aquila about 3 months ago. So far I have had no issues. Decided to download and print your files from thingverse just to have the parts in case I do need them some day. There is one file in the group that I don't see being used in this video, Stepper_Mount_-_45d.stl. Is this for another type of printer? I see where it could go on the Aquila but I don't understand what it's function would be.
That part is mostly for custom printers. Basically you can mount your entire extruder motor and block away from the z axis. For example ontop of the frame. That way. The z doesn’t have to deal with the weight of the motor. There’s no need for that on the AquilaX but it’s an option.
@@3DPrintSOS This is just a follow up of the original comment I made 9 months ago. My lever arm finally broke.Luckly I had printed out the all parts 9 months ago and had them ready to make my repair. I just followed your video and had the printer up and running in no time. I'm now printing a new set of parts to have just in case this happens again. Thanks for all you do.
increíble muchas gracias, por unos de tus videos fue que me compre la aquila te lo agradezco eres el único que me puedo guiar si tengo algún problema con mi impresora... gracias brooo
nice vid as usual just a constructive critique reduce the gain on your new lavalier microphone cuz the sound saturate and it's pretty hard to keep listening, great content !
Thank you! Yea I totally botched the audio settings on this one. I was pretty upset when I found out...but it was too late. I’ll triple check next time.
Just ordered an aquila for a first printer think this will be the first thing I print, been watching a bunch of your videos on it all day thankyou they are great
Awesome. Glad you like them and welcome to the gang!
Well, I watched this when it came out. I thought "My printer is still brand new. I'll worry later." Then, a month or so ago, I watched it again. I thought "I should really print at LEAST the level, cause you never know." But I never printed it. This weekend, I had some trouble. Partly a clogged nozzle. Replaced it, leveled the bed, began a print.....filament not moving. As a last resort, I took the lever off, and......exactly what you showed had happened. Kicked myself several times for not printing a replacement. Had to order parts, and can't print until tomorrow at the earliest (depends on when they get here). So, go ahead and say "I told you so" because you did.
Haha. Very very common. Seems to be an obvious weak point on these and similar printers. But hey, at least you knew what the issue was. Haha
I'm trying to get ahead of this. I knew these plastic extruder parts weren't going to last long. It would be worth the extra couple bucks for Voxelab to sell these units with a metal extruder in the first place. Surely it couldn't bump up the cost that much and it would be a welcome improvement
I know right. Would be nice. Even on a “pro” version
@@3DPrintSOS I've been running mine almost non stop since I got it, close to three months now. I'm counting my lucky stars that it hasn't broken yet. Going to print this up tonight, in fact I was just logging onto my pc to slice this bad boy up!
Picked up this printer yesterday on an Amazon sale for 160 (normally 189)! This channel has been incredible. Look forward to getting started here soon
That’s a great deal!
Great design. And I'm so glad I printed this ahead of time. It was one of the last things I printed before my lever cracked and I started having problems. Thanks for your work on this and sharing it with everyone else.
Absolutely. You’re one of the lucky ones that printed it early.
Thank you for all the information and how to videos. I picked up a Voxelab Aquila about a month ago and I have been hooked. You have been very helpful in helping me in not becoming frustrated with my baby steps into hobby printing.
Enjoy the cup of coffee!!
I really appreciate that! Thank you.
Love this, I used to be very into printing my own extruders but the printed parts would always fail. I’m glad to see people are still working on printed extruders. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Moshe
Fedor, this is a terrific addition to my printer! I printed this last night and installed it today. It works great and there's no worries about those couplers failing, Thank you very much! BTW, it is MUCH easier to install the pivot bolt first and then the spring :^)
:) glad you like it.
Thanks for this! I printed the extruder parts about a week ago, and decided to install today since my filament tangled and broke in the middle of a 17-hour print. Found out that the lever was broken when I took it apart! Maybe this was the cause of my stringing issues for the last couple weeks.
Those pesky levers! Seen this too many times. :(
watching this again and I have to laugh because you installed that arm in one take without cussing or throwing a wrench across the room. You're a very patient guy.
I can withstand some serious heat. Haha
@@3DPrintSOS just took mine off the printer, came out almost perfect except the bracket but I don't think I need that anyway. Now I need to drag my lazy butt to the hardware store for a couple bolts. Thank you
Yep, the bracket is for custom machines.
Just to help out others with the hardware. You will need a
M4x10 screw
M4x16
M3x16
M4 nut
Thank you for this print and instruction.
@@3DPrintSOS im addicted to your channel since I got my aquila. THANK YOU!
I'm going to be printing out your extruder parts tomorrow morning. I have to get the hardware.
The only thing that would possibly improve this video would be a cura profile for tpu. But humbly, you have done so much already. Again thank you!
Randomly bought the Aquila on a whim last night for my first 3d printer. Your videos help me feel good about the purchase. I'd like to see a more in depth video on Cura from you if possible. You explain things easily compared to some others. Keep up the good videos!
Not a bad idea. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS Have another request.. how about changing filament mid print video because you ran out or maybe want to change color. Just an idea for your idea box.
I appreciate the ideas. I have that one written down for sure.
I plan on doing this ASAP. I just got my printer a few days ago, but I've been using it non-stop. I want to fix the problem before it happens.
Btw, your videos have been so helpful to. I've watched every single one of them. I'm a noob, but I'm learning thanks to you. 👍🏻
Awesome. Glad I could be of some help.
So, I printed this last night @50% infill with PLA like suggested and I noticed I had to drill out the screw hole on the lever at the pivot point to 4mm to clear the shoulder of the existing bolt(not a problem, I had the tools/drill press). I haven’t installed the Bowden tube side yet but I’m thinking after I caliper the tube and the hole I might need drill that out too (if necessary). I’m not sure if the problems are on my side or what but I made sure my bed was level and extruder was calibrated. Overall it’s a nice part. I understand it’s 3D printed so it can’t be 100% perfect so No fault to you. Just posting my experience.
I appreciate your page and all that you do. Thanks for posting stuff like this!
It’s just a matter of tubing and printer calibration. It’s not all the same unfortunately. Careful though because of you drill out too much, the tubing might slip out during the print. Also, when you tighten the nut, keep a piece of filament in the tube. That way, it won’t squeeze the ptfe tube too much. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS definitely, thanks for that information. I would assume Too tight would also cause the filament to drag which would cause unforeseen issues.
On a side thought. Can I just use the lever or does it need to be a complete set? Will it bother anything just to replace the lever aside from looks and the stupid extruder tube coupler?
Yep. You could just use the lever and yes, the block is just to get rid of the horrible ptfe couplers. I hate em. Haha 😂
Hi Fedor,
I’m having an issue using this where at minimum tension, it seems to allow the filament to not be grabbed properly, but if I tighten it just a hair, it seems like the filament gets warped after going through the gear. I think it is because the bearing is not directly across from the gear, but is sort of at an angle. Do you think I assembled it wrong? Or have any idea what is going on here?
Hmm im not sure what you mean exactly without seeing it. However, there should be a PTFE tube directly after the gear. So there shouldnt be any space for anything to get warped.
Printed this off... My luck was that the bowden/pneumatic fitting failed. Your design fit perfectly and my bowden tube is nice and secure.
Yeeesss! No more ptfe fittings. I hate em. :)
Thanks for another great video! One suggestion for doing this replacement to make access easier is too raise the Z gantry all the way to the top and zip tie it to the top cross member (if you haven't done the anti-backlash nut upgrade) - that way you have much easier access to all of those screws. Just make sure you have that towel on your bed and support that motor with your hand so it doesn't drop when you remove the final screw! 😁
Got it printed! Now I just need the screws and nut. Can you by chance tell us what your start and end GCODE snippets are?
i like the fact that you can just rip apart your printer and print your own parts as "upgrades" or spare parts
It’s gotta be one of the most fun parts about 3dprinting.
How critical is the length of the PTFE tube? if the last 4 mm end is a bit damage; can I trim the 4 mm and continue using it?
As long as your hotend can reach all the way to right of its travel without being limited, I would trip it up a bit or just buy some new tubing. It’s rather inexpensive and has lots of other benefits. :)
amzn.to/2WeOPuF
@@3DPrintSOS hallo Fedor, i did buy new tubing mainly to use for PETG, but I couldn't take out the original tube from the nozzle side. I tried pulling but can't press down the ring. Any advise there? It never had a bowden tube clip to lock or remove in the first place 🤔
Get the hotend warm, and the. Unscrew the fitting. It will pull the tubing out.
I printed the whole deal but I just couldn't get the ptfe tube in the part with the printed nut. I could force a piece with plyers from the bearing side in but barely. It was soo tight. I finally got it in but it was still too tight a fit that the tube crushed enough that it would put too much tension on the filament inside. So I put that stock part on and used the arm that I printed.
Since every printer isn’t calibrated exactly the same, it sounds like yours is printing a bit too much filament. Try to reduce the flow by 5-7% and try again. Another thing you can do is negative horizontal expansion. That can also help you with fitment.
@@3DPrintSOS I'll give that a try. I'm running a print right now for a buddy's kid. I hope it works. I've started having issues with it this past few days. I just signed up as a Patreon
That’s awesome. Thank you for your support!
Thank you. I did buy this one, and have had a few successful prints so far. Might add this print to the list to ensure I have it if mine fails.
I will definitally print this as soon as I can! Also, what signs should I look for that my extruder lever cracked?
Severe under extrusion and quality losss
Hello, I am trying to print out the parts for this but they are coming out poorly, and are not sticking to the bed. I'm using the aquila profile that was made on here a while back, and I did set the infill and resolution to what was used on the thingiverse webpage.
Could you share the slicer settings and orientations of the parts when printing this, yours looks so good from every angle and is perfect
Thanks! There was nothing special done though. I printed them flat with supports on. The infill is 100% on this print. As for supports, the only “trick” here is you need block the supports from printing inside the block and lever holes. So you use the block support feature in Cura and drag it and size it so the hole in both the block and lever where the filament would travel is blocked.
The rest is just the Aquila being the Aquila. Damn good prints.
@@3DPrintSOS alright, so on the lever for example, is the hole with the bearing thing printing mid air onto supports on the outside? I'm very new to 3d printing and just bought the Aquila based on your reviews and videos
Supports will be generated in there and it should perfectly. After which point you just snap out the supports with some pliers. :). Don’t forget, you can preview this in Cura before committing to the print.
@@3DPrintSOS alright, I'm printing theextrudor block flat with supports as we speak, hopefully it turns out alright, I'll take a picture and share it on here when it's done.
Awesome. When you go to tighten the nut, give it some muscle. Haha. Right on the verge of snapping. Lol. That’s how to ensure the ptfe won’t snap. I personally make it tight, start a print and then tighten a hair before, during, and after. Eventually, you should use all of the threads.
I got to ask, what filament did you print that in. It looks gorgeous
YouSu Silk Gold. I love that stuff. amzn.to/3zRA2qH
I'm having trouble unscrewing the original Lever.. Is there a specific allen wrench that I'm supposed to be using? The ones that came with the printer wont allow me to unscrew the screw thats next to the bearing but I'm able to unscrew everything else.. Could that just be a factory issue in that it was screwed on too tightly or what? This screw is the last one preventing me from removing the original parts :(
Can you use the screws that printer comes with or do you have buy new ones, if so where can you can get the screws for the cheapest? Thanks for the video!
Also which screw should we loosen to avoid cracking?
I’m not sure if those screws come with the printer. I don’t think they do.
You would losen the screw that is on the lever. Too much and your extruder with skip. So, be aware.
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you for the response, where would we get the screws?
Good question. For me I had a ton from my RC cars. But my local ACE hardware store carries a ton of these. You can always try McMaster
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you!
Thanks for this. The M-6 pneumatic connector failed for me. twice. Your clamping systems seems to be more robust and inherently not over engineered (less likely to fail.) testing it out this morning.
I have had enough of those fail on me on all sorts of machines. Whenever I can, I replace the blocks with these.
Your content is awesome! You deserve a good set of Allen driver tools, no more of those L shaped junk.
Haha. Thanks! I have a few decent sets but I try to use the tools that came with it in videos so that people that just got the printer can relate. :)
@@3DPrintSOS Good thinking!
Will this also work on the Aquila X2 that has the filament detection sensor?
Yep. It’ll work. :)
Would this work with the Voxelab Aries as well?
Nope. The Aries has a proprietary extruder mount. I haven’t tried to remove it to see what can be mounted there instead.
My local hardware store has these screws and nuts?
Yes, for sure.
oof. so after 3 prints my brandnew printer suddenly started being crappy and i spent half a day cleaning the nozzle, cleaning the bed, drying filament, trying out different ones, leveling the bed, changing settings, changing the feeder tube with a better one. then i checked the feeder and sure enough the lever was broken. NOW i saw your video.
Ordered a metal one for like 10$ because this one isnt gona print anymore replacement ones 😂
(sure theyd have probably sent me one for free but itd be a crappy one again) anyways i really recommend people to print this like right now or at least buy a sturdier one.
Ah bummer, Sucks I didn’t make it to you earlier. Haha
@@3DPrintSOS your vids were/are still very helpful 😁 btw i remember somebody or maybe you too mentioning the steppermotors getting rather hot sometimes and adjusting the voltage via voltmeter on the motherboard so nothing gets fried, do you have any visual guidance/advice how to check/fix that maybe?
This is definitely something I need to cover in a video. There are a few tutorials out there already but I’m sure I can make things clearer.
@@3DPrintSOS that would be grand! i saw some for the ender but then people mentioned that the values all differ for the different versions. i'm guessing aquila v1 & v2 have their own values as well...
will this work on the x2 also pls new to printing many thanks
Yep. It’ll work.
Я пока просто заклеил дихлорэтаном лопнувший элемент, но пожалуй нужно напечатать эту штуку.
Great video. What is everyone printing these with? PLA? PETG?
Pla at 100% infill is the way to go. ;)
@3DPrintSOS even in an enclosure? I will usually print doors open, but what if I want to print at 30-40 ambient?
I mean, don’t let me stop you from going PETG. If you can do it, I’d just go PETG right away then. I don’t have a printers that’s always in an enclosure.
Hi Fedor, got myself capricorn xs tube, while im trying to get the nut tight, it wont let the filament go through....i need to get the nut almost loose so the filament can pass, any tips? Thank You
Capricorn has very little tolerances so that makes sense. What I would do is put a piece of filament in the tube while you clamp it. Then keep clamping it down as far down as you can before feeling a lot of drag on the filament
@@3DPrintSOS ok i'll try that, hopefuly it wont pop out while printing. Thank You and happy new year to you!!!
@@Cougar169 you can coat the outside of the tube in a tiny bit of elmers and then insert it and let it dry. You’ll still be able to remove it later, but it’ll hold it in place really well. If it’s an issue, that is.
After a month, and it broke.
I'm glad I saved this video before I actually bought the printer.
Having issues the last week or so, and that was the issue.
I had to drill out one hole, but that might be on me.
The printer has been perfect aside from this.
Glad it’s been good otherwise.
I have a spare metal extruder for my Ender 5 pro. Do you think it would bit my Aquila?
For sure. They are interchangeable
@@3DPrintSOS thanks for the reply! I’m loving the channel, keep it up! The Aquila is great! It’s already performing better than my Ender 5 Pro.
Awesome. Glad to hear it. :) and thank you.
Any reccomendation as to which exturder I should buy for the printer
Can anyone tell me what types of screws those are called? Went to my local home Depot and couldn't find anything similar.
Grab one of these and never worry about hardware again: amzn.to/3E5gtvf
@@3DPrintSOS oh thanks!
These amazon kids have been so helpful. For all kinds of projects. Haha. :)
that's great if you have two printers or have printed one ahead otherwise your stuck if it breaks
True. This is definitely something I suggest printing when you first get the machine.
You had me concerned that my tensioner went bad. Tried some new filament and after a day or so the extruder would make a clicking sound and stop feeding. Switched back to a trusted known good brand and it's running fine. This is going to be one of the first things I print to have on hand.
Hi,
Thanks for the files for the parts. I'm gonna need some tpu parts and was super happy to find your video.
Just a à quick question.. What is the stepper mount for.. You don't talk about it in the video. Or at least I don't think so.
Thanks again..
Rom
That’s for if you want to move your extruder away from your x axis. Basically for a custom setup.
@@3DPrintSOS thanks for the answer.
This will fit all creality ender 3’s too right? I just bought an ender 3 pro (microcenter deal) so I figured I should bite the bullet before the arm cracks on me
Yep, should be a direct replacement. My original was on an Ender.
Hi, sorry but my English is so bad that I use translator, I read in the description you leave this:
NOTE: The block should be printed standing upward with the threads pointing up. Supports are a must and should be setup from the print bed only.
The translator makes a translation that does not make it clear to me what is really the correct position in which I should position the piece to be printed in the best way as you describe, could you say it in other words so that I understand it or so that the translator translates it correctly?
You can print it flat. Just be sure to block the supports in all holes of the block and lever. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you my friend, I will do so, best regards!
Thats a neat fix but isnt there a better extruder option out there ?? Like the BMG for 20 bucks ??
Sure a bmg would be great. Just requires firmware modification to work. Plus this is free and functions flawlessly in my experience.
I'm 3d printing this right now thank you so much for the tip
I'm told there are issues with the all metal extruders on some designs as the gear grinds on the metal surface as there is no spacer to prevent this so plse be careful what one you buy if your going down that route! Would have thought its an easy job to just add the cable clip onto the thingiverse designed extruder before you printed it out? Great vid thxs!
Yea, that is a problem on some of them. The printed extruder work very very well.
I got my Aquila about a week ago and have printed with all the free filament and some of a spool but not too much. It will not feed the filament anymore. It is not the brass looking gear slipping on the chrome/silver motor shaft it seems like the motor is not turning at all.
Every hear of this? What do you think?
It stopped feeding while printing something and i noticed it was going through the motion but not printing.
Hmm. First thing to check is the lever. Make sure it’s not cracked around the bearing. Super common on these machines. Also make sure your nozzle isn’t clogged. Get the hotend up to 230 and push filament though manually until it’s flowing super smoothly. Then back down to 200 and try again. You can also look up hot to do a cold pull.
@@3DPrintSOS I checked and manually pushed the filament through while holding the spring lever down. It fed nice. I went into Control/Move and changed the 0.0 on extruder to 20.00 to see if it would feed some and the motor shaft did not turn. Do you think it burned out? I called Amazon and they are sending a whole new machine and i am sending the one back. It is awesome and i will always stick with this brand now. I am going to do the upgrade you did in this video. It will be my first print!
Thank you for your knowledge!!
Amazing is very convenient in this case. You sure the motor isn’t unplugged anywhere?
How do I find the STL file on Thingverse? Saw several ender 3 leavers but never found your files.
Thingiverse.com/fedorsosnin/designs ;)
Hey Bro..question. what dual gear extruder do you recommend for a voxelab x2 version?
Hey. I typically don’t. Only because you have to change esteps higher than the stock firmware let’s you. It’s easy to get around with pronterface or octoprint though. I hear these are great: amzn.to/3L67X1i
I’ll buy one to test
Both of mine limit prongs broke is there a website I can get from
I’m not sure what that is. Can you describe where they are and what they do?
@@3DPrintSOS there’s one on the bar and one under it. It’s a like a stopper for it to be leveled
It’s the nozzle goes all the way to the left but it’s like keeps going and making a wired noise the same thing when it goes down .
I think they’re called level stoppers but I’m not sure I’ve looked around I don’t want a new printer when it’s one need a simple fixed
Ah the z limit switches. How do you know they broke? It sounds like they maybe aren’t plugged in. This happens when you try to home the machine and it just rams it and clicks?
Check to make sure they are plugged in correctly and into the right ones. If the wires are plugged into the wrong ones, the order would be wrong and they trigger correctly.
Love the suggestions and upgrades. Kindof a side question for people living in the US. Do you reccomend a metric hardware kit on Amazon that would be best for 3D print mods? I find that with all the variation of hardware I am wanting a kit where I have various sizes of hardware in case I need them.
Metric for sure. ;)
I have tried to print the base 3 times and the threads have blobs/globular stuff on the bottom part of the threads. Then I saw that it needs supports. My question is how do I know where to put supports or does CURA figure that out? It seems it would be stronger to print laying down, but that seems to be a problem for the Aquila. Any help greatly appreciated!
Cura figures it out. You can block supports from places you don’t want. You can also have them everywhere or only on the build plate.
I would like to install a dual drive extruder (bondtech) on m’y Aquila. The gearing ratio is 3 to 1 with the Bondtech and I can’t set the extruder step/minute to the right « ratio ». Is there a way to fixe my problem?
Thank’s for help and thank’s for your videos, they are very helpful !!!
Marco
Yessir. You’ll need to use an aftermarket firmware to achieve this. Check this out: github.com/HWCronicus/Marlin-Aquila/releases/tag/1.3.2
@@3DPrintSOS thank you very much for your quick response. You are awesome...!
Thanks again it is done and everything works very well
Bam
Is this lever aplicable to the Aquila X2?
yep. :)
Hi, Thanks for your videos. Got an Aquila a month ago - first printer and it has been going non stop since. I will print this to have in hand in case mine breaks.
What settings do you suggest for the supports and what is the best way of removing the inside supports?
Thanks in advance.
Paul
Print it flat and with a super high infill. I would do 60% grid supports from print bed and I would block supports in all the holes. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS Great. Many thanks.
I cannot for the life of me get the tube to slip all the way through to the gears. I know you said theres supposed to be tension but I spent about an hour attempting. Any tips? Maybe it didn't print correctly.
You can take a round file or drill bit to it. But don’t take too much off. ;). OR reprint it with some horizontal expansion. Every printer will print that spot a hair differently.
The shiny golden filament is really lovely. Can you note which filament it is?
It really is. I love it. Check my Linktree or description in the video for a link. It’s YouSu Silk PLA
Hey Fedor. Question. On the extruder lever, great design btw, when printing PETG, how tight should that adjustment screw be?
Hard to say. You have to have it tight enough to grip and lose enough not to squish the filament.
@@3DPrintSOS Good deal my man. I’m upgrading to dual gear extruder tomorrow. Got a big order to fill. Lol.
printing this on my ender 3 for when my printer comes later today. the instructions say print at 50%. can it be printed at 100%? thanks for all the videos.
At least 50%. I do mine at 100. ;)
Oh wow, I didn't realize a large infill is required for this! I'll definitely have to change my settings in Cura!
This is awesome printed it at 0.2 with supports i fought 2 hours lubing the tube and trying to get it in but i did it till now it never moved its mooving from the hotend tho dont you have solution like that with a nut for the hotend :))
The best solution I have for the hotend is an idea I saw Chep do. You cut a small piece of ptfe tube and print a PETG, abs, or nylon spacer and use it to clamp that tube down inside the hotend. It eliminates the moving at the hotend tip itself. Which is nice. I have a video on it “”take your Aquila to the next level...”
Everything changed but I could not use the “rounded one piece extruder lever” cuz the nail did not fit on top into the one I printed, so I put the one that came by default, it works I guess
Also I printed the “srepper mount” but since you haven't used it, I didn't use it either, I don't know what it's the use for that
Is worth to put the chain for the cables?
It bothers me that they are scattered and it looks great
The stepper mount is what I use on my custom machine. It takes the weight of the stepper off the z axis and puts it on the gantry where it doesn’t need to be held up by a motor. ;)
I’ve done chains on my Ender. They look good but not necessary and eventually they sag and make noise.
It happened to me today! FML!! The bowden tube unsnapped and Damaged itself . Luckily I have a replacement pptf valve and I'm gonna print this, next I'll get the fan and bl touch upgrades
Happens to us all. Your plan sounds good though
They do have e step adjustment in the settings now. 🤘
Hi, what size diameter ptfe would I need for that little guide?
I just use a scrap piece of the stock ptfe after I upgrade to a TecBoss tube.
How do you go about designing something like this? It seems the precision is pretty crucial. I'm familiar with (and have) a professional 3D software, but not sure how I could design something this precise. What is your program for design?
Just a bunch of experimenting. To be honest this was put together tinkercad. Based on a stock block and taped screw someone else designed. So not too too precise actually.
I just ordered this printer as my first ever, how long do I have until I have to start worrying? Should I immediately print this file ? When do these levers usually break? After a month or so ?
I would normally say, don’t worry. But more and more people tell me theirs broke before they got a chance to print one. So do the test prints and try a few prints, then print one of these. Can’t hurt.
@@3DPrintSOS alright thank you!
Looks like I know what my first print is going to be, lol. Thanks for the video and the .stl's.
💪🏻
Great Video,
Do you think this extruder will hold or is it a temporary sollution until you buy a metal one?
I have 4 printers using this extruder. One has been using it for over 2 years, one for over a year, and one for about 6 months. Zero issues. ;)
Did you build this design from scratch? How do you design such an accurate model?
I actually made the original in tinkercad by putting together a few other ideas from other brilliant solutions. I user tinkercad for years before actually getting “real” software. So don’t be scared to try. :)
In what orientation did you print it so the threads are clean?
Print it flat, 100% infill, do .15 layer height, use supports, and be sure to block the supports on the side of the block. ;)
I’m having a problem where the filament pushes the tube out of its place. So i’m unable to print anything right now no matter what I do the filament pushes the tube out. I was just about to print this to have it in case and now I regret not doing it sooner. Anybody know a temporary fix that would allow me to print this So I can just buy the screws instead?
That’s tough. Hmm, you could check your spare parts and see if there is an extra in there.
Awesome. My Aquila is all up and running for pla like a drram! I was wondering can this printer handle abs? If so do I need to protect the plate with tape or does the surface that the Aquila have work well enough? Abs is getting cheaper and it would be nice to try and vapour smooth a print.
You could give it a try. Just keep in mind that abs likes to warp when not in an enclosure. Also there are smells associated with abs. With that said, it should be able to handle it just fine.
Can I print all of these at the same time or one at a time?
Same time is how I do it. Just block off supports inside any holes
@@3DPrintSOS ok thank you
mine already broke off how to print one ? :D
If it’s already broken, you are out of luck. You can try to glue yours back together and try to just print the lever to get it running. Otherwise, you have to buy one.
Hi I received my Aquila a week ago I set it up and it’s a brilliant printer but my blower fan and hot end fan are always on do you know how I can turn them of ?
The main hotend fan is always on as a fire prevention mechanism. If the printer is on, hotend fan is on. It’s like that on all machines. ;)
*What exactly happened? I read about this being a common problem but I'm not really sure what failed or broke. If I print this extruder lever, will it be strong enough using PLA?*
The part of the lever that holds the bearing tends to crack. When that happens, it looses all tension and the printer will start to severally under extrude regardless of settings. Yes, PLA is plenty strong! :)
@@3DPrintSOS *Is PLA stronger than what OEM uses? or is this mod just better designed? And for those orange spring upgrades that I see many people recommend for levelling, would it be beneficial to use one of those springs for the lever as well? I just want to know should I buy 5 springs or just 4 for the bed.*
The design of the lever is better because there is just more plastic holding the bearing. So it’s structurally stronger. No need for orange spring since it adjusts via a bolt on the lever. The yellow spring has a different inner diameter and won’t fit the block nor the spring perch. ;)
Installed this last night but the base cracked sometimes during a long print. It broke where the flat part of the base meets the front end of the base at the 90 degree angle. I printed the base standing up with the threaded cone pointing upwards. so the layers peeled away from the tension of the sprint. Seems like printing the base flat would solve this, but do the threads come out clean enough doing that?
Doesn’t hurt to try. Use supports and be sure to cancel supports inside all the holes. Also 90-100% infill so it lasts forever.
Is there a way to reduce the existing factory tension to try to prevent cracking of the arm in the first place?
There is. There is a screw on the block that you could undo. Not too much though, as you’ll get skips and under extrusion.
@@3DPrintSOS Thanks, I backed it off a turn.
Give the lever a print and set it aside, just in case. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS Good call. If it breaks, I won't have the opportunity to print it. Today was the first time my Bowden tube popped off the extruder. I can't wait to get the new parts installed. Thanks again for the files.
No problem. Happy to help.
Great video, thank you. I’m having one small problem that I’m hoping you can help with.
I’ve printed your parts out on both my Aquila and my son’s Prusa 3. Both prints ended up with a ridge on the inside of the filament passage that prevents inserting the PTFE tube all the way to the pointed end (where you then cut the tube to match the pointed profile).
Thinking I’d made a mistake somewhere, I had my son download the file from scratch and print it again on both printers. Once again, both prints had the same internal ridge. My son thinks that it is an intended design choice to prevent inserting the PTFE tube too far. I then showed him how you insert the tube so far that it extends from the pointed part. He scratched his head, and suggested asking you if there happened to be a version you made without the ridge that didn’t get uploaded to thingiverse.
Any chance that is the case, or should I just see if I can find a needle file small enough to smooth the ridge down? Finding a file that small might be a bit hard. :)
Edit: BTW, it isn’t support material causing the problem.
Yes that little ridge helps the ptfe tube to not fall out. It adds enough tension to keep it in place and helps the nut do it’s job. You can drill it out, but I find that pushing the ptfe tube past it helps big time in the long run.
@@3DPrintSOS Thanks! I guess I'm just not pushing the tube hard enough to get it past that ridge. I'll push harder. : )
At what speed I can print these on Aquila? I need these parts at the moment just because of TPU printing.
Ive printed everything at 50mm/s so far. :)
@@3DPrintSOS sorry, got one more question :). You mentioned in video that extended rounded one piece extruder leveler can be printed with 100% infill. Is it ok to print all parts with 100% infill or no need?
You can. But 100 is only really nessesary to make really really strong parts. Most parts I print with 4 walls and 15% infill. Sometimes 5 walls and 20% infill. Those are typically strong enough for most applications. But for printer parts, 100 is great if you got the plastic for it.
@@3DPrintSOS your respond time makes subscribers worth 😀! In first place I bought PLA just for these parts to be able to print TPU parts for fpv drone, so I have plenty of material 😁.
Perfect use case actually. One day I’ll get into the drone game.
when printing this what supports did you use or did you use any
Great question. I used supports. I like to use "lines" at 50% density. .2 between. And they pop right off. I did use support blockers on all the holes.
Where did you get the hardware for this mod?
Most of it from the stock extruder
Will this also fit the X2 model, thanks
Yep. :)
printing them now, thank you
Love the vids, thank you for helping so much w my new hobby! I have a problem with my filament breaking in the extruder. I’ve been using a Voxelab brand PLA Pro. It’s looking like the gear is really digging into the filament. It seems to break about 1/4 the time. The little gear screws are tight. When I take out the filament of the tubing you can see how much the gear has dug into the PLA, in places where it does short back and forths like on a little support you can really see where the filament has gotten really thin, which is why I think it’s the gear. Any thoughts? Thanks again!
The lever has an Alan key in it that controls spring tension. Just back it off a bit. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS You are the man! Been printing for almost a week now and no issue's with that. Ended up that the spring was a bit bulged out even though the nut was moving loosely out of the box. So I completely unscrewed it and screwed it back together and bingo ;-) Thanks Rock Star!
It was all you. :)
Can we get a link to file on things verse thanks
It should be in the description. Here you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4647801
Is the extruder design the same as the endet series. If so could I replace a broken extruder with an aluminium one?
Yes the extruder is the same as the Ender series. :)
When you say printing at 300% where is that setting on Cura? Excellent videos I just got my printer yesterday and have watched all your videos and your making a fantastic contribution to the community please keep up the great work. Sent you a cup of coffee on thingiverse this is an awesome addon.. it is my next print to have on hand when mine breaks.
300% scale. In Cura it’s on the left side panel when you select an object. Thank you so much for your support and the cup of joe. Means a lot!
@@3DPrintSOS The time and effort you have put into helping us noobs means a lot as well. Enjoying my printer so much more. Have some PLA+ coming to print this mod out. Or do you suggest something else?
I love pla +. It’ll work well.
printing this now! xD want to test it on my aquila modded to direct drive , one question tho , is it me or the stepper motors on the aquila are quite hot while printing? , using the included firmware without any mods , ofc i have no reference point , its my first 3d printer ,
Hmm. They should get warm but not too hot. If they are getting hot, I would suggest checking for wheel binging or too much belt tension.
Thanks for the designs on thingiverse! Do you plan to cover the various other printable upgrades that could work on the printer? I think you said it didn't need too much a while back but it would be cool to see what could be done!
First of all, thank you for your support. I appreciate the coffee. ;)
I’ll probably be featuring a few other things that improve the printer in various ways. But I’d like to keep it minimal since it’s printing so well already.
I’m currently printing my newly designed bracket that “tucks” the screen in to the left so it’s not just hanging out there on the side.
Follow me on Instagram for more content. :)
i think a cablechain, a filament cleaner are nice but the designs you can find on thingiverse are already pretty solid.
Great vid! They are not bolts ! They are at screws!
Whoops
Love your videos. Got my Voxelab Aquila about 3 months ago. So far I have had no issues. Decided to download and print your files from thingverse just to have the parts in case I do need them some day. There is one file in the group that I don't see being used in this video, Stepper_Mount_-_45d.stl. Is this for another type of printer? I see where it could go on the Aquila but I don't understand what it's function would be.
That part is mostly for custom printers. Basically you can mount your entire extruder motor and block away from the z axis. For example ontop of the frame. That way. The z doesn’t have to deal with the weight of the motor. There’s no need for that on the AquilaX but it’s an option.
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you for answer. Keep up the great work.
Thank you! :)
@@3DPrintSOS This is just a follow up of the original comment I made 9 months ago. My lever arm finally broke.Luckly I had printed out the all parts 9 months ago and had them ready to make my repair. I just followed your video and had the printer up and running in no time. I'm now printing a new set of parts to have just in case this happens again. Thanks for all you do.
That’s awesome. You’re smarter than most. ;)
I was here at the beginning of this channel....then my printer never worked out so I haven’t been here in a while... it yea wassup 3d print SOS
Heeeyyyy
increíble muchas gracias, por unos de tus videos fue que me compre la aquila te lo agradezco eres el único que me puedo guiar si tengo algún problema con mi impresora... gracias brooo
Glad I could help you get into it. :)
Great video. I'm heading over now to print one up. Thanks. 👍👍
No problem. ;)
nice vid as usual just a constructive critique reduce the gain on your new lavalier microphone cuz the sound saturate and it's pretty hard to keep listening, great content !
Thank you! Yea I totally botched the audio settings on this one. I was pretty upset when I found out...but it was too late. I’ll triple check next time.
This happened to me after a week so I just bought a MK8 upgrade kit
Yup. Very common unfortunately. Always nice to have a printable option though. Plus I personally hate ptfe couplers