LS1 VS Old School 350 Chevy
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- Опубліковано 13 тра 2014
- side by side comparison of LS and Older 350 Chevy I stated incorrectly in this video that this was an LS 6 that is not correct it is an LS1 I also states that the LS bore was bigger and the stroke was shorter it is actually just the opposite smaller bore longer stroke dyslexic to the end
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"How fast can you afford to go"...I love it.
You can reach the same HP with old school sbc. All you have to do is use 15, 18 degree heads and a stroker kit of your liking. You won’t be able to if you use the old style 23 degree that much power. I just built a 434 sbc that made 850 hp. There have been lots of improvements for the older stuff to make it competitive.
Or if you don't have a 400sbc you can make a 396 from a 4 bolt 350 with over 650hp
The Mouse motor was designed in the 1950's, and it was a triumph mainly for using the latest (for the time) casting techniques. A model of simplicity, and a very strong design. The LS engine is more advanced ... as it should be, coming more than half a century later.
Just wanted to say your videos are very informative, I enjoy watching them and have learned alot from them.
Thank-you.
I just discovered your channel. Fantastic information, and presented in a way that is visual and lets us see what you're talking about. Great Job!
Let's not forget one of the main reasons SBC, old and new, has been so popular for hot rodding: GM, aaaaaaall the way back to the origin of the SBC maintained a very similar, most times identical, drivetrain/chassis spacing/location. Bell housing bolt patterns, engine mount locations, even stuff like length of transmissions and such were all so close, even identical some times, that swapping in a newer engine was usually as close to a direct drop in as anyone could hope for. I worked with a fellow years back that told me his father had swapped a 1975 350/3speed auto combo into a 55 Chevy that had previously had a straight 6 in it. All they had to do was switch the motor mounts he said. And that is just one story of thousands where people were able to nab a 350/TH350 combo and just plop it into whatever engine bay they were messing with, hook up a couple wires and start it up. Compare decades of that with Ford, where it was extremely entailed more oft then not to swap from a 6 to an 8, and different engine series and transmissions wouldn't mate up, and driveshafts had to be made custom or cut, etc. Or Chrysler, where the old cars it was literally 100% impossible to swap a V8 into a slant 6 car without major torching and welding involved just to get mounts into the engine bay. OF COURSE SBC was the most popular, it was the EASIEST. not just cheap $$ wise to buy and build, so easy anyone could get it done. And that holds even now, you can take and swap an LS and a modern OD trans into pretty well anywhere a old SBC would fit and generally the only modification to the car will be minor engine mount tweaks and maybe accesory stuff like PS pumps etc for engine bay clearence(like buy a corvette bracket to mount the alternator or PS pump on the other side of engine, literal bolt on mods) Wanna bolt a 6.0 LS into a 85 Monte Carlo? Move the engine mounts back one rivet hole on the frame, TAADAA, drops right in! Wanna drop a 5.0 Coyote Ford into an old Foxbody Mustang? REPLACE THE ENTIRE K MEMBER with an aftermarket, buy custom headers, transmission crossmembers, driveshafts, on and on. I saw a build where a guy put a new SRT8 Hemi into a 1980 Dodge Mirada. He had to MOVE THE FIREWALL. SO yeah, SBC is popular, because any Joe Bloe with an adjustable wrench and a vice grips can get one to fit in his old car.
I agree 100% GM, Chevy in particular made it so easy you could pull out a 250 inline six and drop in a 454 and it will bolt right up to the same trans if it were a Ford you probably could not even put another 6 cylinder in if it were more than a 2 year difference not saying I don't like Fords because I do I've had some good ones it's just that the interchangeability of Fords is not there Ford makes constant changes the pretty much everything and it is much harder and more expensive
AGREED! I always say that any idiot with a socket set and an IQ over 50 can work on a Chevy. So by design it's only natural Chevrolet vehicles attract such idiots. Seriously, the die hard bowtie boys are the dumbest of all gearheads.
Sounds like a good place to live.
FORD, = .. 10 POUNDS OF SHIT IN A 5 POUND BAG....
@fomoco where are you dreaming?
just love watching these vids, mylivingiron, what a wealth of knowlage. learning loads.given me the confidence to build my own v8. Thanks
I'm probably an old fart but still like the old SBC myself.
its ok to like the sbc.its also good to know the ls is far better,far more cheap to run,far stronger,far better flowing,parts are everywhere.....that being said ive got an old school sbc in my trans am and im building another sbc 350 with vortec heads ,vortec carb intake,holley double pumper and a big roller cam because its cheap and carbureted not injected with wiring nightmares.sbc is cheaper and easier,LS is better
Sound better than the LS Engines also
Ok Boomers. Lol. The LS is better in every category.
Matt H 454 big block will eat a ls3 and ls7 alive any day, so long as you know how to tune and drive
Cable Head Crew stock for stock it depends on so much to even consider. It’s all about moving air so generally that’s true but if you’re going to build a motor for big power the newest generation of V8 is hands down better for both breathing and RPM as well as weight savings and reliability. This ain’t my claim dude. This is just fact.
LS engine is great but for me I'll still take the good old Gen 1 SBC. The statement that the SBC "A decent engine" blows me away. It has been pretty much THE foundation of the hot rodding industry for over 60 years. It will still probably be around when the LS long out of production.
you just opened up so many questions on LS engines... hahaha enjoy dude!
great information,I've got both blocks,and currently running a Ls1 engine and needless to say I haven't had to spray the 100 shot of nitrous oxide yet. Thanks for all your videos they have helped me build some great competitive engines.
I been wandering about much of this stuff. Wow man you answered eveything for me. I got several projects. I needed this info. Thank you very much. I just subscribed😎
this is only the second video i've seen from you...do you have a video of the new engines with carb set up????
Did that LS flex when he handled it?Lol! But seriously if you run an LS hot once, it's done.
Hey thanks for posting this. I have to admit that I was always curious about the differences. I guess I lucked out, I have an LS 6 in my 2001 Z06.
I have a L98, LS3, and LQ4. I kind of like the L98 myself for street use since I'm an old school guy. Excellent video. Love the side by side comparison.
The LS is a stronger and better designed engine from the factory, hands down. That aside, not much you said about the older engine is true. I have been building them since the late 70's and we were some of the first guys to scrounge 400's out of the bone yards and have the cranks turned down to put in the 350's and make 383's Money for money that "old" block will keep up with the LS and in many cases surpass it, because parts for it are so plentiful and easy to find.
300 horsepower was what we were getting when we were in high school and had no money to dump into them. Racer brown cams and big block rocker arms. 400 cranks and rods with a set of 350 flat top Badger pistons that cost 80 bucks for a set of 8, WITH rings. Back when 70 cents a gallon for gas was outrageous! Once we actually had money, and the aftermarket started making GOOD parts for them, those "old" blocks came to life. Not that they will ever be as strong or well designed as the LS. But, as someone already said, give some credit where it is due.
Amen
you say that the early small block can make the same power of an LS that is wrong a stock 6.0 lower end can make well over 1000 HP in stock form and live the early SB will split in half before you get there don't get me wrong I like the early SB I build a ton of them but to say they can make the same power is just wrong
Yes my little GT Vega loved it's lt1 383 stroker 4 speed biuld.
I have built and helped build turbo small blocks with over 1200 hp and they still live. One of them was in a crappy 400 block, the only thing we did to it was put splayed main caps in it, and IT is still alive, and I am betting it was cheaper than building an LS to the same power, although, as time passes LS parts will come down, and may already BE coming down... Not that i will argue that the LS block is stronger in stock form. Never saw a gen one split in half either.. in the early 80's saw some blocks with hairline cracks in the lifter valley, but that was a casting issue from GM. I put a couple dozen warranty engines in because of that issue.
I just think the LS is a pain in the ass to deal with after spending 30 years building gen one and gen two small blocks. I'd probably change my tune if I spent half that long with the LS. Part of my LOVE for the small block was that everything fit. I could pull the 350 out of my 89 truck and drop it into a 55 Bel Air with very little work. Interchangeability.... Bolting a 350 in where a 4.3 was in an S10 etc, etc... Chevy REALLY had something great... now they suck just as bad as all the other auto makers, and the LS was part of the change to stopping people from interchange and re use. Liek everyone else, they want YOU to buy a new vehicle every five years, AND THAT is how long that 70K truck was designed to endure, and no longer.
When they outright TOLD US that in tech school... I drifted away from working for Chevrolet AND being a true fan. As I see it, it really no longer matters what you buy. BUT, I still have my own stash of old smallblocks, and a big block or three.
@@kniteprince3798 The LS engines are just as interchangeable as the early small block you can swap the crap out of them just like the early small block and everything fits they are actually easier than the early stuff I have been building Early small blocks since the 70's and LS engines since the 90's the LS engines are every bit as interchangeable probably even more so than the Gen 1 stuff when you say GM has attempted to stop people from interchanging and reusing engines I totally disagree The LS engines will last 3 times longer than an early small block they have extremely hard Nikasil cylinders I have seen them with 300K on them and the crosshatch is still there the early SB has very soft cast cylinders that wear out badly the LS line of engines are going to be built and rebuilt over and over for the next 30 years+ and there will be a whole now generation of small block engines that are everywhere will fit in anything I have personal friends that have LS swapped S-10's fox body mustangs, even miatas with ease you can get a bone yard 5.3 with less than 100K on them that bolt in anything for $1500.00 and you have the complete set up computer, harness and all accy's do a cam swap and it makes 400 HP try that with an early SB you can't the new LS engines do not suck you just think they do because you know nothing about them and they scare you
I bought a 2004 GTO with a 6 spd manual. That engine was awesome, I was enthralled with it in every respect!
what can you tell me about belhousing patterns i guess you would call it. im doing some upgrades to my TBI 5.7, ive upgraded to vortec heads, added a cam chip bored out throttle body with high pressure fuel pressure regulator and exhaust. now its time to upgrade to a 4l80e. question is, what years and displacements are the belhousing patterns the same? also how similar are the motor mount locations? thank you
Is there much of a difference in rebuilding an automotive engine and a heavy duty Diesel engine ? I've been wanting to build a 383 for my 97 c1500 but I've never rebuilt a car engine just a few Diesel engines in my classes
what about the LT1/LT4?
I run old school small block chevys and their has not been one ls engine go around me yet you build a old school engines right and they kick ass thank you.
Informative video -thanks.
I'm thinking about building an LS motor but have bounced back and forth thinking about an LT-1 -going to go with the LS.
I have a question about the LS block in your video, I noticed that the upper half of the main bearing sits in the aluminium block and the lower in a steel cap, my question is would the block exhibit different thermo and stress characteristics than the steel main caps ? More about strength under stress than thermo properties. Especially under high thrust loads ?
I have built several small blocks that duno at over 550 HP a typical 383 stroker with a good set of AFR heads and solid roller cam will make over 500 HP all day long.
And get 10-12 MPG, LS can make that power level and still get 20-22 MPG.
@@fastnasty6627 wrong again idiot i get 21 mpg with a l31 carbed with over 400 hp
If I take a 5.3 and board it the size of a 6.0 liter and use the 6.0 crankshaft and pistons and heads what I make the same horsepower as a 6.0
Sorry I am a Italian guy, what is the difference between Lt1 bottom end, and sbc350 bottom end? I think i have a LT1 bottom end with iron Vortec head , it’s possible?
What is the best heads for the LS1 when rebuilding the motor is it the LS6 heads or is it better to get the LS1 heads ported and Polished
Had many but currently have
2 350 5.7 litre v8
97 and 99 year
Combined 470.000 miles
engine about best all around
15 sets of door handles and tailgate handles tho
The real benefit of the LS engine is the broad power curve. It makes power almost all the way through the powerband.
The old school sbc is still a great option but, can't do that.
When I put my completely stock 01 Z06 on the dyno it hit max power at 5,700 rpm and held completely, table-top flat til it hit the limiter at 6,700 rpm. I've never seen an engine do that. Since what REALLY matters in an engine is average power in your powerband and not peak power, Chevy did a fantastic job with that engine.
Great content, thanks for taking the time to make this video
How does the LS engine hold up to a overheat situation compared to the cast iron engine, and are the steel sleeves replaceable in the LS engines ? Thank Randy
@ 3:58 (the small block Chevy) "..doesn't make Too Bad an engine..". Really? that's your take on one of, if not the most, iconic engines of all time - "not too bad".
yeah it's not bad
Leave them behind & ill grab them right up. Great engines. Sure the LS is too but they definitely haven't worked all the bugs out of them yet. Especially some of the earlier LS engines. Listen im GM to the core & Corvette is my
Heart & soul. But there were some definite issues & recalls on them. With the blocks & the heads.
100 million made.
"they definitely haven't worked all the bugs out of them yet. Especially some of the earlier LS engines." Well sure they have worked out the bugs, that's why they changed the design.
@@corvettefever360 they're 20 years old. All the bugs were worked out of them with computer modeling before production in the 90s.
What about the warping factor isn't cast iron less likely to warp as much as an aluminum block ?
Yes. So don't let it overheat! Can't go wrong with a 2 or 3 row full aluminum radiator with dual 12in fans
That and a new coolant temperature sensor and 160° thermostat
Cast iron blocks are always the tougher more durable version vs aluminum blocks, providing we're talking about the LS engines. I'm not talking about "all cast iron blocks ever made by any company". Certain cast iron blocks by certain companies throughout history were much more poorly cast vs others. The better blocks usually have a higher nickle content as well, which makes them even tougher. Aluminum blocks are simply much lighter, and in racing, every pound that can be shaved off the weight adds to performance. But make no mistake, an aluminum block will NOT take the heat and abuse that a good cast iron block will. There is "a trade off" in everything. Weight advantage goes to aluminum, but durability goes to cast iron.
Yes aluminum warps and iron cracks.
@@davidmurphy1207 David Murphy........Yep. And some cast iron block designs are stronger than others, due to having a higher nickle content in the iron.
what about the intake valves being shrouded by the cylinder wall like on a 350 with a 2.02 or larger valve. is there significant clearance or does it need to be larger bore like a 400 block on the old small block?
Would you suggest this for an mid 60s chev truck 3/4 ton ? How and what are the fuel options like carburation VS what fuel injection for this truck ?
does the weight reduction of the aluminum have a big impact on freeway mpgs? For me I'm trying to build my 67 impala for drivability. I'd like to drive it all over the country. not too worried about max hp. Seems like sbc with aftermarket EFI would be the better application since I don't think weight is as big an issue while cruising but thought I'd ask.
It does make a difference the fuel system is also a big factor
I ran 11.04 at 121 in a 1970 Nova with a bone stock 6.0 on 7 psi. No intercooler and on 94 octane pump gas. I will gradually add boost and see if a low 10 or high 9 is possible while maintaining reliability.
Stock ls2, cam, no boost,no nitrous in a 67 camaro i went 11.0 @ 125 first pass ever... you did something wrong if you went that slow with a turbo lol.
@@derekvanvalen7362 Might be because he's driving a Nova, which is a tad bigger than the Camaro (and heavier depending on the package and trim or what mods they have done thus far)
How hard is it to add an intercooler? Just curious because I'm not a mechanic.
@@randygreen8916 Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure you attached it right in front of a radiator. If I'm incorrect, please tell me.
@@deanster3435 yeah no. Wrong. What else you got?
I've got a 2003 Silverado SS with the LQ9 6.0....I believe mine is a Gen 3, correct? also, is this compatible with parts for the LS1, LS6 etc...?
I want to swap to a LS engine on my 85 El Camino. What would you recommend? Also, can this be done in California with smog requirements? thank you in advance
Although you'd THINK the newer aluminum motor is lighter, completely built and ready to put in the car, it actually weighs MORE than it's cast iron block predecessor... between 15-25lbs more.
You mean after you add all the shit computer, fuel injected accessories?
Jonny 5ive this
20alphabet So what are the actual blocks and heads weighted at? I was informed there was about 150lbs diff, in favor of LS.
Just a little update folks. I own an engine shop. One of my customers brought in a 2010 block for his ZO6 Vette. A brand new block because his last two spun cam bearings and his mains came out of alignment!
Guess what? We mocked up his new block. Installed the crank and put a rod/piston in each corner.
What did we see? We saw a different piston height on each one! Also we put a billet torque plate on the deck and found something else interesting!
Not only are the bores out of round from the factory. The deck is off from side to side and end to end!
This means each piston was a different height in the block!
We thought maybe it was the piston/rod combos so we changed them around. NOPE!
We ended up decking and boring the new block!
Check out the main webs between the cam and the crank. It's all hollowed out to save weight!
There is no strength in the factory aluminum block whatsoever folks! DON'T USE ONE!
Buy an aftermarket or use a cast iron.
But sorry again, the cast irons are off as bad as the aluminum blocks folks so prepare to spend some money if you want it corrected!
I completely agree with you these blocks are made on an assembly line and the factory simply does not care about these issues part of the blue printing process is correcting this bear in mind this is not a new problem it goes back to the early blocks also most of them are off real bad Chrysler and Ford are just as bad had a 440 mopar that had .048 taller deck height on the right ban than on the left and it was factory all standard never been touched by the aftermarket The Ford FE blocks are atrocious as well
I've never seen a Ford block off that much. I'm sure it happens but surprisingly they are pretty damn good! Especially valves, Gm has the absolute worst valves as far as true from the factory. It's terrible! Job security for us guys! I used to love Gm, now it just makes me shake my head! Lots of work to do to make it right!
The factory has certain things they will let go for the sake of production most of these engines have fairly low compression ratio and lot's of deck clearance the early small blocks from about 73 up were 7.8 to 1 compression a 14.5 CC dish piston with a 76 CC chamber, a .035 deck clearance and a .045 gasket between them if the decks were off (and they were) it didn't matter much because the CR was so low they got by with it I checked to piston to valve clearance on a stock 350 just for fun it was around .300 more than a quarter of an inch that is assembly line engines for ya
Even with the cross drilled mains the LS is weak on the bottom. Cast aluminum is weak and if it moves, it cracks. That little mains skirt is a joke. Look at an old Hemi do see how it's done. Also, aluminum tends to move a lot when popped out of the mold. I wonder how many get throw back in the furnace right out of the mold. The worst quality control method is "good enough". I have to go take my meds.
Doug Anderson...look up the term "ad hominem" and reread your childish rant. Punctuation nazis are the downs having, mouth breathing, neck beard wearing cousins of the grammar nazis.
You said repeatedly the two engines are not interchangeable. Can I take out an old 60's 327 engine and bolt in a LS?
Are the motor mounts located in the same place and will it bolt up to the old bell housing? Does the crate LS motor LS come complete from fan/water pump harmonic balancer to flywheel, distributor to oil pan? Fuel injectors and computer?
will a 350 -400 turbo trans fit the LS engines? whats the best for the $$$ heads for an old small block?
ls is differently superior. But only 300 hp out of old school sbc? Dude really either one can reach 700+ na with a good engine builder. Give credit where its do.
Michael Pipkin ls is only better on top end stock but bottom end is kinda a mixed bag
Michael Pipkin he must of ment a stock old sbc (5.7) he also didnt compare new to old size because that is atleast a 6.0ls motor why not put a 396 or 454 next to it.
Yeah dude sure don't know Wth he is talking about he's pushing the LS engine!! We build the 23 degree Ole School block w 18 degree all the way down to 12.5 degree heads and build well over 1000 hp!! The Ole school engine he needs to give credit where credit is due I have drug the shit outta the LS engine set ups!! Also you can build clear up to a 486 cubic inch small block w after market block but Ole school design w slayed 4 bolt main caps and filled blocks and really build some horse power! He doesn't know Wth he's talking about and they have been procharging and twin turbo charging!! Let alone roots blown since the damn 60's
He said a low dollar, 300 HP street engine. 700 HP can be had from an early SB but it will not be a low dollar engine.
Doug Anderson LMAO u can't. not with 3 or 4k
I went oldschool and took an L98 stroked it to a 396 procharged it with a D-1 procharger, installed a 4L80 trans with yank 3300 stall converter, world heads eagle crank, trickflow 48 Lb injectors and the msd 6 ignition box, comp headers and a custom chip, with a tpis miniram. I smoke my share of LS stuff. It's just a lot of fun to open the hood and have people see the oldschool stuff. It's kinda sad though the ring setup doesn't have all that great of a way to get as much oil as you'd like. And you have to be super careful not to run into the water jackets when boring put for the 6 inch rods I'm using. But it's a beast of a setup that you'd never forget if you're inside of the car, standing next to it while it's idling or if you're unfortunate enough to pull up at a stoplight next to it thinking you're gonna have it's lunch. That's the biggest mistake many of people have made with way newer technology lol.
i have a L98, HOW MUCH POWER DID YOU MAKE? TRACK TIMES, ETC...
roknroy1 I've done an 11:3 at high altitude at 127 mph and I couldn't hook up so I had some tire spin
jdr ok I'd say it's at about 650 hp
frank mathis i can make 1700 with a 8.2 caddy with a proper setup but money dictates what a engine can do
That's cool, but do all the same things to an LS based engine and you will make more power. My little 346 stock bottom end with only a cam, headers, and D1X on low boost with 93 octane does very well with low 10 second power. With nothing more than a fresh rebuild with forged rods/pistons in stock heads, intake, etc so I can run more boost safely it will have low 9 second power easily with only 347 cubic inches and complete street manners. So yes old school stuff can be built to beat new stuff, but mod for mod you are going to get more power out of the new stuff while having even better street manners.
john vasquez would it be possible to rebuilt a 350 block and heads that have been sitting outside and are kind of rusty already?
Good info✅
I’m looking at a LS 6 for a 928 conversion
I understand the Escalade engine 6.0r 6:2 is a good option.?
Cheers
Frank
Thanks for info's. Really it add value to me as now I planning to buy a new engine (LS) for my truck Sierra classic c3500 1985.
Jaber Al Kubaisi dont do that a bbc will crush a ls in that application
jdr ok No, the LS is still the better option. It will give over double the fuel mileage and can easily give over 400ft lb of torque out of a 6.0 truck block, 500ft lb is easily obtainable if he wants to put a little money in the engine.
To make 500 hp on the old small block is quite easy. Good aftermarket heads, appropriate pistons and for street use use the factory crank and rods. And then it fits in any car designed for a SBC. More than that aftermarket rods are needed.
Most LS engines are under 4" bore with longer stroke. IF you have a car originally fitted with a LS obviously keep it. But for any remotely serious work bin the rods and while you are at it upgrade pistons. Heads are quite good with a mild tidy up. Cams and valve springs are expensive [hydraulic roller] but are good.
The factory alloy block flexes a LOT more and only has 10 headbolts [use studs for any performance] so does have inherent weakness.
For a race engine the early engine is stronger and will make similar power anyway.
For a med budget strip street the LS is probably a better base and 20 years newer too.
Hell, I put a '65 327ci fuelie motor in my '57 Corvette. I substituted 2 fours for the FI unit, cammed it up and stuck on some headers ... routinely twisted axles, destroyed Schiefer clutches and blew differential cases in two. Never broke the motor. I never dyno'd it, but it was scary to drive. Could get front wheels off the ground power shifting to 2nd. I've never heard of any LS motor pulling wheelies in modern Corvettes.
4 cylinder motors with a spare 4 cylinder motor attached to the side are a waste of money and are too heavy in comparison with other faster machines today. Having a spare 4 cylinder motor attached to a 4 cylinder motor was just a fad of history. Its obsolete today in 2019. The dual 4 cylinder motor design makes sense in a cobra car designed to only have a 4 cylinder motor. But today V8's are useless. V8's are just 2 four cylinder motors made next to each other but joined at the crank which only makes 4 power strokes to the rear wheels which is THE SAME NUMBER OF POWER STROKES as 1, 4 cylinder motor. V8's are 4 cylinder motors with a spare 4 cylinder motor attached to the side in case you need slightly more torque effect while you're driving in circles.
What is involved, If i would like to put a blower on this engine? Maybe a belt driven blower for the street use?? Thanks.
Hello. Can you please show differences between iron LS engines and aluminum LS engines? Do they have a different design in any way, or is it just the material used? May be a dumb question, but thanx!
Nothing wrong with a LT 1 from 1996 and a few years before it, probably the best of the old-school small blocks.
Lt-1 another 4 cylinder motor with a spare 4 cylinder motor attached to the side. Okay for driving around in circles but totally crap for driving in the street. Racing is driving in circles for a few laps. You should be able to afford to pay for a spare motor while you're driving your 4 cylinders around a race track. V 8's are just 1, 4 cylinder motor with a side 4 cylinder spare motor. Only 4 power strokes to the rear wheels!
@@dreyn7780 Oh Tay
@@dreyn7780 then a inline 6 is a v6 cut in half and connected end to front
Cause in a race, fuel economy doesn’t matter.
All of this stuff becomes really BORING once you realise it’s just built to do 1 job with some margin for adjustments.
I’m SICK and tired of car drivers buying the wrong design and wrapping it round a tree, killing themselves and somebody complains it’s the car’s fault.
6 inline engines travel FURTHER than all V8 engines, per cycle of the engine.
V8’s are only slightly better than bicycles.
What did you do with the packaging your car came in when it was new?
You threw away the cardboard box, so now your car isn’t worth anything.
Where’s the wooden crate for the aftermarket motor?
No box, no value.
4 cylinder motors work perfectly fine without the spare.
It’s YOU who’s getting robbed.
Millions of people ARE ruining your life. Wake up!
If you’re not Christian, you have no morals, and nobody can have a conversation with you. It’s the heart of all the problems in the west.
You’ve ruined your own life and nobody can help you out of your mess.
No morals, your fellow engine salesman are gonna rob you and your mates.
They have no morals either.
A car is a tool to get the job done and the WW2 party which includes car racing and V8 engines, are finished. Gone!
Baby boomers have upped the price on ALL FUN.
Those social butterflies ruined your life before you got to live it.
They lie to you constantly. And laugh too.
over 70% of people live check to check. for those people with a gen 1 small block car, it's alot cheaper to build a gen 1 engine if you have the knowledge to go fast for cheap.
It's true they do cost less but if you can pick up an LS out of a bone yard for 800 to 1000 they are super durable and don't really wear out like the old stuff Most people who do LS swaps buy a used engine and they make more power for less right out of the gate if you buy a used early small block you will most likely have to do a complete rebuild and even more $$$ to mod it to make the same HP as a used LS
i have had several "old stuff" as you call it with close to 400 thousand miles and still run good. i have test drove several ls trucks from 2004 to 2007 that had 4.8 and 5.3 engines and i own a chevy 2500 with a 6.0 and my 1996 gmc with a vortec 305 feels like the same power but more low end torque.
ls heads are 15 degree with bigger runners that have high flow but that also means less low end torque which a truck needs.
@@jhue73 no......check dyno and torque figures
how much power can an old sbc 350 2 bolt main handle before you have to worry about messing it up?
i have a question about spun cam bearings and how to fix it and how to tell if you really do have a spun bearing do you have a video or can you help thanks my friend.
When did the old school SBC and BBC become so crappy?!! These engines were used for performance and made 600+ (SBC) and 800+(BBC) with minimum effort and expense. Now all of a sudden they are the worst engines with the advent of the LS engine. 300hp on street?!! Really?! I have made 400+ with cast heads and upgraded valves , There are people making more with ebay turbos on stock 305s. Today people are discovering how well old school chevys are making big power with BOOST and suddenly they became crappy because of the LS.
The LS is a fantastic engine. Great for people who have money and can afford to buy the expensive aftermarket parts for performance.The average cost for a well used LS from a junkyard is about $1300 and that is for a 5.3l. But for us old school gearheads the SBC and BBC are perfect tool to deal with those who woefully under-estimate them.
I'm not sure where you heard that the older small and big blocks are crappy it certainly wasn't from me I build a ton of them
However the stock 5.3 lower end has proven it's self to handle over 1000 HP and live you cannot do that with any of the earlier engines so yes a stock 5.3 is 1300 bucks but you don't need to do anything to it how much would it cost you to make 1000 wheel HP with an old small block? it's going to be way north of 1300
The point is the old school SBC and BBC are still very good engines. I have a LS in my 3rd gen TransAm and it is a great and well engineered engine. I wonder if GM had put half of that R&D effort into the old school SBC and BBC would they have been as good or better than the LS. Case and point the very first LS engine!!
Actually they did put a ton of R & D into the old small block and the result is the LS engine
Do you know that my 1984 Pontiac Transam came out with a 5.0L 305 engine that produced a well R&D'ed 165hp, at the same time Honda Civic Si 1.6L with 166hp. GM stopped doing any R&D on the SBC and BBC after 1970. They just threw parts together and put them in their "high performance" cars, example corvette camaro and firebird. The vortec heads was their last attempt and any engineering on those engines and the Grand National was a fortunate accident. What happened to the years between 1970 and 1987? Didn't GM have any R&D department? It is the AFTERMARKET that kept the SBC and BBC alive because if it was not for them we would still be driving small block V8 with 160 hp and big block V8 "SS" with 200hp.
I must also appreciate the Japanese,Korean and European car makers who forced GM to do some R&D and produce the LS engine. It was shameful when they realized the a Corolla, Accent, Civic and Corsa could beat the best that GM could produce during the 80's and the 90's.
Nope you don't need expensive aftermarket parts for an LS that's the whole point factory heads/Intake stock bottom end will make 1000+ HP and live look up the sloppy mechanic on youtube Matt Happel makes 1000 wheel HP with a stock 6.0 short block out of a bone yard you guys keep saying LS is great if you have money that is not the case it doesn't cost more if you do it right it actually costs less you will also not get 1000+ HP from a stock early small block lower end that is laughable even if you build an early small block to make 1000+ HP( keep in mind matt's 1000 HP is at the wheels that means about 1200 at the crank )
that early SBC will never make 1000+ HP and live any amount of time LS power is actually cheaper than the early SB
I've built several early SB and BB Chevys way beyond the 500 - 750 hp mark with no trouble at all. Just got to know the good combination per cubic inch size your building and be the machinist to produce good strong engines that last. And you don't have to be a nut with tons of cash either. You forgot to tell people that the early LS has issues with cracking the lifter galley area out, making allot of early LS blocks junk.
True the cast iron 350's are also very prone to cracking in the lifter valley I see all the time
Myvintageiron7512 i still dont know why people like 4 bolt main 350s
+jdr ok They like stock 4 bolt main caps because in the GEN-1 SBC they offer superior main bearing stability compared to a stock 2 bolt block, all else equal of course. If you are sticking with the GEN-I SBC, you are better off to drill a 2 bolt SBC block for aftermarket splayed main caps.
You can use bow tie block comes standard splayed. Or aftermarket Manley, World Blocks ...etc. Don't have to go nuts with splayed blocks, a good Gen1 SBC with 4 bolt main works fine in early models up to1972 are generally good. Truck blocks end up better choices for builds as they general have 4 bolt mains and steel cranks to start with. Some Truck blocks are Tall Blocks style with Big Block Chevy. But always check by pulling off the oil pan. Other years need more digging into for inspection with magnaflux and dye penatrent to start, just like Ford and Dodge engines have issues in certain areas too. Just have to be smart with your money and do quality work yourself or if you know good machinist. I am a machinist and was raised in father's machine shop and Diesel Shop. I grew up learning the machinist trade. Myself and brothers worked with my father on heavy duty construction equipment, Semi Truck Diesel and auto engines for streets, racing, restorations, drag (Fuel Alter, Super Gas, Super Comp, list a few classes) engines and circle track (late model and super stock classes) racing. Myself and 1 brother did more racing engine service on the side, end up being more semi- full time work on our weekend's building heads, short and long block services for people.
hoghogwild i undertsand the stability but the strength seems to be the biggest point new sbc users believe the 4 bolt is better for id rather spend money on my gen 1 then my ls because i hate working on it been a good motor all of mine have
I have a 1965 Impala. How would an LS fit as far as the electrical?
How much wider is the LS or is the motor mount angle different or not?
Sbc 383 stroker, call me old school all the way. Had one built for my 77 k20. 300hp not even close. Dyno at 550.
did it get 28 mpg like my 500 horsepower ls gets? here is your answer,no it got 5 miles a gallon if you are lucky? old sbc's are cool and can make power but the ls is far more advanced and better in every single possible way
trillrif axegrindor well if you got a hot rod with a big power small block gas milage doesn’t really matter, it’s I’m sure just a weekend cruiser.
trillrif axegrindor wait 28mpg, like fr fr?
I rather take the 350 and build a 383 stroker.
Well interesting, but really, I have a L98 350 tuned port injection 700R4, in my 69 Camaro. This is actually my first 350 and actually to me it seems "gutless" I mean it's good but well I need power, like maybe 700hp or maybe 800hp. But I'm hearing I don't think I can get that kind of hp out of an 5.7 L98 350 sbc. I don't want an LS aluminum block I hear they get hot easy, so I was thinking to get a Dart racing block. Any suggestions on how well this type of block would perform and to be able to get maybe around 700hp or 800hp. And would my 700R4 rebuilt with a 500pump be able to withstand the motor ? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Would like to see what special assembly points you make from the cast iron to the aluminium block. What is done differently when assembling the aluminium block?
I worked in some old schools, they are generally smaller, less classrooms, easyer to clean
wtf?
Except maybe the bathrooms. Those old school bathrooms are downright NASTY!
Fly house of truth good one
LS1 Bore/stroke 3.90/3.62
SBC350 Bore/Stroke 4.125/3.875 - 393CI(6.4L) Stroker
Engine is 414.29 CID or 6.8 liters. SBC from factory 4.00"x3.48"(5.7 litres.)
my partner and i were building 600 hp small blocks in the mid 60s. these were street engines with carbs and no electronics. only draw back was that they didnt last too long.
your 600hp sbc's also got a good 3-5 mpg were a 4-600 horsepower ls will easily get 25-30 mpg and live a long 400,000 mile life and still have bore cross hatch pattern in the bores.sbc was great pre LS,now they are alright
One of the main problems I ran into when I was building engines for my cars was I could make good power and I was doing it with Chevy's old Tuned Port Injection. But it was never totally reliable. Computer tuning was still in its infancy, and was expensive. I was having to throw every aftermarket part I could afford at mine, AFR heads, edelbrock intake, crane cam, Keith black pistons, forged rotating assembly, etc. and it was a little faster than a new stock LS1. But my mpg was terrible. I had electrical bugs I was always battling. A person with a new 5.7 LS1 could do some bolt ons and be just as fast, but more reliable, and still get 25 mpg. Look at how much power a stock Mustang, Camaro, or Corvette makes, or anything with a new Hemi. The game has changed.
Dart heads on that sbc will really even the playin field
no,it will not.cathedral ports will almost swallow a dart head
Ford GAA 32v DOHC 1100 cu in 1940-50 aluminium block Tank engine
exactly man you are spot on.......main question, can you put dome pistons in an ls engine and can you carbureate an ls engine?
Being a Ford guy(dad was a ford engineer) I'm curious about the LS versus iron block's, do LS's mount to the same bell housings as earlier blocks etc??? Are there crossover aftermarket bell housing's if not? What about motor mounts as well? Asking for a chevy friend of course.
The current LS3 Crate Engine is the most popular choice of Hot Rodders, Restomods, and vintage 55-57 owners doing engine swaps. You can buy several variations of the engine with up to 525hp. The heads on the LS3 with it's rectangular intake ports flow and breathe better than the previous LS1 and LS2 heads that used the cathedral port design. These Engines Mfgered and assembled at the Tonawanda Engine Plant in New York are really a bargain for the Buck. With the type of modern computerized machinery used today, the precision tolerances that these machines can maintain, make these engines as precise as something built in a clean room race shop. back in the day. If you want to see all the quality checks and precision tolerances that go into one of these engines; watch the next Video after this one of the Corvette LT4 650hp engine being assembled. GM/Chevy have so much confidence in these LS Engines that they will still warranty the current ZL1 Camaro if you decide you want to do some off road racing. For the price that you can buy one of these LS3 Crates through companies like JEGS,SUMMIT, or GM PERFORMANCE you would never even come close to building a true blue printed engine like it with it's precision at that price...
I agree
These are Hecho enough Mexico.
Like you said in the opening line of your statement "crate engine".????
hate to burst your bubble, but old school small block Chevy in NASCAR tune produced 800 HP every week
NASCAR Blocks were not the same as the block produced for the public they were Bow Tie Blocks much stronger very similar to a Dart Block thicker webs, thicker decks, and cylinders as well as forged steel splayed main caps
25-50 k a motor ...ok
That’s what’s great about LS motors they can breath just as good as nascar I’ll send you a link
ua-cam.com/video/VsmbbuSq9m0/v-deo.html
My point exactly . it wasn't until the later year's that the NASCAR fella's made the which to the SB-2 358 inch 10,000 RPM all day and night motors , The fact is you can get slightly used Carrillo Or Oliver SB-2 Connecting rods pretty cheap that are without question still perfect and usable .. I'm still wondering why the SB-2 has not made it's mark in Drag racing . Or sure some Ex NASCAR crew member's have them in a Drag week car but as far as everyday well the SB-2 is just not an everyday kinda motor
I hope you consider building a ground up LS bigger version. I have never built one. No matter how much you read, I think actual seeing it go to gather piece by peace visually is the best option for my brain. Sort of as my apprenticeship many, many years ago. BEST OF LUCK FROM SOUTH FLORIDA...
what ls motors are good street/strip mild motor. thinking about a 5.3 or 5.7 would an ls out of a pickup truck be a good one to build?
So we're just gonna ignore him thinking Moby Dick was a fish?
swims like a duck, quacks like a duck...must be a duck
Moby Dick was a whale not a fish lol
Saying the LS is expensive is a misnomer. The iron block 5.3's are cheap.
Not only that, but contrary to what was said in this video, the old 350 is nowhere NEAR being in the same league as far as power output or potential power output. You get over 300HP from a 5.3 just BONE STOCK. This is more than can be said about almost ANY stock 350 SBC. And 400+HP can come downright easy from a 5.3. To get that kind of power from an old 350 is going to cost LOTS LOTS more!
Add a tune lt headers and cam to a 5.3 and you can be at 375 or more. But I have respect for the sbc. They were fun engines to work on and build.
Yes it is. Unless you define LS as having aluminum blocks. The LM7 shares the exact same architecture as every other Gen III or Gen IV Chevy V8.
@@matthewstorm5188 400hp can be had with bolt ons, with either engine. If stock cubic inch is maintained, the 350 will in fact make more power. Every engine can make 1hp per cubic inch with ease. Heads and cam will put both over 400hp as long as you dont use the really low compression 350.
Matthew Storm the stock small block Chevys made low HP because it was the 70s 80s and 90s. Emissions BS. The small block in the 60s easily made 375hp such as the 327. The 350 came along later and at the smog emissions time. They were made low hp by design, not because it was hard to get hp out of them. Factory iron heads could bring almost 400hp on the small block before the 70s. Throw away the iron smog era heads and bolt on a set of Edelbrock rpm heads is all you need to wake up a old 350 small block
cool vid ! could you help me out a bit ? Im restoring a 1985 Monte Carlo SS and I want to swap out the engine for some thing better ! I want more speed lol ! Which chevy engine would be the absolute best to put in my monte ? Price is not much of an issue ....
thanks I always wondered about the LS series thank you!!!!!
Ls engines have a smaller bore with a bigger stroke. 5.7 ls1 or 6 is 3.90 bore and 3.62 stroke. Most of the ls engines share the same size crank ''3.62'' and use different cylinder bore sizes to make different engines. 5.3 5.7 6.0 6.2.
I picked up on that with crate motors (new recent Ls models) that the bore is less than the traditional 4.0inch unless you go over 400cubic inch then it jumps slightly.
***** Be care full where you get your crate motors. A guy I know bought a Chev 350 from Jeggs or Summit and in the fine print it had a disclaimer saying it "had to be installed by a GM certified dealer"to have any warranty. Needless to say it locked up within a couple days, and when I tore it down, it had the wrong main brgs and they were all too tight! I don't think he got it out of his driveway and they wouldn't warranty a dime of it! Get a bare block and that's fine, and have it built locally so you have someone to go back to if it fails. I have seen a LOT of crate disasters over the years!
themaxrider Thank you for the information, just goes to show the possibilities :/
Hemmings "Motor" news must not know autos have engines either huh.
We all have nicknames for things pal but some of us know when to keep our yap shut and others that are ignorant don't. Such is life
Willie Gillie Which would make you a Very happy person then huh
Would love to have a LS7 383 stroker. Hmmm a 650hp mild for that motor.
BNforever2009 You mean a LS1 383?
cuz the LS7 is already 427ci
yep, youre right. sorry bout that.
If my subframe has motor mounts for a SBC, would it work for an LS? If not, would it just require new mounts and are they bolt-in, or would I have to weld new motor mounts in?
They make mount for 350 to ls swap
Love your videos do you have one showing difference between Cadillac 4.4 super charged and an LS motor
i admit i am a old school guy but my experience with aluminum blocks verses cast iron blocks is a durability issue. Why is there still alot of csst iron still available after so many years because they are durable. With aluminum they are more acceptable to overheating damage caused from simple breakdowns. They cant stand half the obuse cast can take and keep ticking. So in my opinion even though aluminum has a bit better performance but i will give that difference up for durability and sheer toughness.But if your rich and have money to throw away go aluminum.
Ken Jett aluminium is better with 2 things heat dissipating faster and they weigh less. Other than that I like my cast iron blocks.
I see people reving the piss out of cold started aluminum block engines, and I cringe. They need to be babied until they reach operating temp because the tolerances are way off when cold. The same is true for cast iron, but aluminum is worse
Ed Jackson yeah i love the cast iron for the simple fact they can be ran hard. Aluminum can stress easily.
Aluminum blocks are less prone to cracking and warping than cast iron blocks...they are more pliable. They dissipate heat faster. However, they will also build up heat fast if something goes wrong with your cooling system. Cast iron blocks are stronger, more rigid. For towing, high performance, the block is more reliable as its put under a load. It retains heat better, which equals more hp and efficiency.
I don't like the flimsy little valves and stems on the LS motor.
Blackaboe thats only the ls7 really
If the valves are built out of exotic materials than it's no big deal.
I have built me a couple of chevy 304ci that superduty fast, so fast that they were seldom beat. I sure miss those days.
The old 350 had a 4" bore with a 3.48" stroke. You don't get a 4" bore in the LS series until the 6.0 liter and above. So most of the LS blocks have a smaller bore than the old sbc 350.
I wouldn't have an aluminum engine in anything,they're junk in my book, Just my opinion,and mine isn't no more important than anyone else's, and I'm not trying to offend anyone,because I guarantee most of you probably know more than me,but I've never had any luck aluminum heads,or blocks hell even with sleeved cylinders,it doesn't matter there's always something letting go when you get the damn things hot,and usually it's a head gasket,and it's not like the good old days you just go down,and buy a top end gasket kit, 9 times Outta 10 now you have to replace the head itself,or at least send it out.not like them cast-iron heads, Which you can run on hot for a little bit.aluminum heads Warp,or even melt they're garbage,and it gets way more intense than just a few gaskets. buying heads gets expensive after a while. I had much rather buy a couple valve cover gaskets intake gaskets Valley Pan two head gaskets,or or whatever gaskets I need for the top end aluminum heads just don't hold up if you run a steelhead hard enough it will Warp but you can always pick one up used,or a lot of times a good machine shop can make it almost like new, aluminum heads are still in their infancy in my book,and manufacture haven't perfected it's yet it's just the way I look at it overheat the damn thing one time,and they're done.ill take my cast iron block,and heads and roll old school without worrying about running a little hot ya know.
Yeah I can agree. Last thing we want is broken engine that we can't romp on.
Thanks for the comment!!! I appreciate it!!! I was going to put an LS1 in my 69 Camaro (fuel injection etc.). I'll just rebuild the 350 that came in it!!!
LS Swap ALL THE THINGS!!!
Will the transmissions still line up? Will the LS6 fit the 700r4?
8:39 What kind of machine is that? Or is it just upside down?
I love the old school don't really like the new one
you are kind of stupid then,idiot.........
you can find 5.3 LS engines from wrecked trucks everywhere for cheap.
Lefty McStinky lol no. you can find 5.3s with less than 100k miles for under $1000.
I have 5.3 and I'm going to see if its aluminum in my Silverado , it runs great ! if I stay off the throttle , cruise around I'm at 15 to 17 mpg for 5,000 truck
+TheManfromNiiru Look inside your glovebox at the RPO code list. It lists all of the RPO(Regular Production Options) alphanumeric 3 digit codes for your truck. If we are talking about a GMT-800 1999-2007 Silverado/Sierra, the only engine that will have both aluminum heads AND an aluminum block is the 310hp @ 5200rpm/335lb/ft torque @ 4000rpm with a 9.9:1 compression ratio.The LM7 and L33 are very similar, instead of the LM7s iron block/aluminum heads the L33 will have an aluminum block and aluminum heads, plus the roller cam of the L33 has slightly more lift. The L33 was only available in extended cab configuration of truck beginning in Model Year(MY)2005. For comparison the 2005 LM7 aluminum heads/iron block was rated at 295hp @ 5200rpm/335lb/ft torque @ 4000rpm using a 9.5:1 compression ratio. Both the 310hp L33 and 295hp LM7 have a 5900rpm fuel shut-off.So the L33 has aluminum heads AND block, slightly higher lift numbers on the camshaft, and 0.5:1 higher compression ratio,If you see an L33 in your RPO code list its an K33 and if you see the digits LM7, your truck originally came from the factory with an LM7 engine.
Captain Howdy the 4.8 and the 5.3 are the exact same exept for stroke.
it's all about the stroke
i have a 83 jaguar with a 350 in it. i want to swap for a junk yard v8. how do i find out if it will fit to the transmission. where do i get more info on some thing like that?
Can you get the stroker kits for any of the ls engines?
I'd still rather have the old school cast iron block and heads. Yeah, they were heavy, but they were also bulletproof (except 400 heads).
justsomeguytoyou 400 heads are good its the heads people dont drill steam holes in that fail
The steam holes are there from the factory---sometimes they'll crack between those holes if the engine is overheated.
Best combo I ever saw was a 350 with 305 heads machines into a 2:02 valve and ported. 400,000 miles later it’s definitely tired but it still runs
nobody wants to talk about how ls motors drop valves and puke oil pumps u still gotta replace the stock rods n pistons to make serious power
No you don't. Plenty of people make reliable 1000hp stock bottom end LS engines. Only mod needed on them is gapped piston rings.
a c wrong dude
uh, no. it's not wrong. Stock bottom end LS engines can hold around 1000 hp by simply widening he piston rings. Plenty of mags have done it, youtube hotrodders, and DIYers. For example.
www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1109-stock-gm-ls-engine-big-bang-theory/
a c... I don’t think you read the complete article. They added more mods then just gapped piston rings.
Motors are electric engines are gas.
So how much would I cost to get say, an ls-6? (In good condition) because I have an 84 chevy and was already gonna do an engine swap to put a nice old 350 in there but seeing this I would prefer an ls especially since my truck will be my daily driver
Is there a part number that I can buy for the wide cam retainer