Hi John. Thanks for the great video! I just bought my first GW, and it is in need of brakes. Your demonstration and explanation were very succinct and very easy to follow. This really is a no-brainer in terms of complexity, but it never hurts to get instructions for things we've never done before; ESPECIALLY brakes on a motorcycle! LOL Looking forward to checking out your other videos on the Gold Wings!
Ok. I bought the pads from you guys for my first Goldwing - a used '16 F6B Deluxe. I watched this video, and then went out to the garage to change the pads. 6 minutes later, I found myself just laying there on my side on the garage floor thinking "Something must be wrong. It couldn't have been this fast and easy." I literally laid there wondering if I did something wrong longer than it took me to change the pads on both sides. I gotta say that I have been completely blown away by Honda and my F6B so far. I'm wondering why I was so reluctant to make the switch from a problematic '15 Harley CVO Road Glide Ultra to the Goldwing? I'm so incredibly stupid for falling for the whole Harley thing for so long. Everything I've done to the Goldwing has been such a breeze. Everything I hadda do with the Harley was always such a PITA. No more. I'm sold on the Honda Goldwing hook, line, and sinker.
great point, i am in the same bucket now, looking for 15/16' f6b models, but hard 2find w low miles, guess they all read your post here and smartened up! lol...i cannot believe he didn't take the caliper off? if i buy the bike one day, i mite actually let honda change b/c teh labor shld b so much less!
@@Andy-hr2ui Several times now. It's not too bad. It is one of the poor design points that Honda dropped the ball on. Don't feel worried about tackling it yourself and saving a LOTTA dough. There are lots of really good, detailed videos on how to do it.
One thing to add...check the brake fluid reservoir level BEFORE prying the old pads apart. If it is full, it could overflow and ruin your paint. I always take out most of the fluid first. If the reservoir has any sediment, now is a great time to do a thorogh flush.
Thanks for the video. I did order the pads from you all and they sent me 3 sets of the OEM 06455-MCA-016 pads as your salesman said the pads were the same for the front left and right and rear and your link in the video showed the same thing. In your video you said to put the pad with the shim on the inside. That works for the front left however, not for the front right or the rear caliper. The shim cannot be reversed to the other pad due to the extra hole for the pin. I used the shims off my other (used) pads for the opposite side as they were aftermarket and did not have the hold for the pin to go through. Something is not right here however I did get the job done.
is it me, or did he not take the entire caliper out and replace the pads? he did it with them on, amazon honda engineering, no wonder they re gna try2run this country soon enuff.........great job! wonder if honda dealer still charges alot for such a quick job
My 2013 F6B front pads had no shims when I removed them. What function do they perform and should I have them. Bikes performed flawlessly for 123,000 mi
More like skill level 0.5--Just did mine on my 2017 F6B and I would add when you pump the brakes back up--also do the foot break (front & back are linked)--mine was way to squishy when I did the initial ride. SUPER simple process.
Thanks I learned something today. Always a student ready to learn. But do you have a video on how to remove left caliper bracket ? Is it supposed to feel a little wobbly? Like loose . There’s 2 bolts one fork and the other to hydraulic plunger or something. Lol,
New subscriber with a question - I purchased this used 2006 Goldwing and I can't get any power from the red auxiliary cable in the behind the left pocket - can you do a video on how to replace that cable? Or send me a how to directions? thanks!
Great video except the part about collapsing the rotor part. Can't see either side what the heck I am looking for. I will see if another channel has a better upclose picture. Thanks for the rest though.
One other thing that isn't mentioned in these videos... when you are finished, BEFORE riding, make sure you pump your brakes back up to get the new shoes against the rotors. You will have no brakes until you do and you don't want to find that out too late.
So you don't recommend cleaning the pistons before pushing them back in or lubricating the back and ends of the new pads before putting them in? What kind of mechanic are you?
Question my good friend what kind of torque wrench did you use replacing the front brake pads because you did not say the name of that torque wrench..????
My pad change was far from easy. I did everything described here, yet my new Partzilla pads seemed too thick for both to be installed...caliper bore was pressed just as instructed. Front pads I got from partzilla where bike master 96-1495
I read every so often, that I should clean the pistons with brake cleaner before I push them back in? Any opinions on that? I'm done the pads before and didn't do that, but it does make sense. I worry about getting brake cleaner on areas I don't want it. Like the paint and wheels/rims. Thanks for giving the torque specs.
twowheeled, You are absolutely correct. The reason Why the Pistons should be cleaned before being pushed back in a caliper, Is because The caliper dust seal can't remove baked on brake dust from the piston. Brake clean "Does not" harm the seals. I use a cleaner called awesome, and an old toothbrush. Rinsed off with a spray bottle of plain water.
The pushing the piston back into the caliper bore was very poorly shown. I can't tell at all what you are talking about or doing, and since that's the first step this video is useless. Your oil change video was so good I expected better.
This bike has ABS....You are playing with fire to just compress the pads without loosening the bleeder valve...Pushing dirty fluid backwards into the Anti-lock servo can cause mushy brakes and bite you in the wallet....It doesn't take much loosening to get it to bleed, and then tighten it right back up without touching anything else and you won't suck any air in....
Honda lists 2 sets of pads for the front. The left front pads wear about double the rate of the right. Pads are the same. If you need to change pads you can reuse the shim. Other than that the pads are the same. As for getting the pistons back into the caliper, pushing on the caliper works best. It let's you check for a stuck slider. Make sure the pistons are clean before you push them back into the bores. Give them a good spray of brake cleaner. And don't forget to pump the hand AND foot brake to reseat the pistons against the rotors before you ride. Don't waste your time or money on aftermarket pads. Honda OEM only way to go.
I see they took out good pads to make a video. (Notice they didn't show you what to look for in a worn pad?) You must always Clean and grease the caliper slider pins, so the caliper can "Float" and not wear pads prematurely/unevenly. Changing pads the way the video portrays is for emergency's only!, to get you home to do the job correctly.
Lubing the pins will just attract brake dust and other debris causing more problems than it’s helping. Now if it’s a car and the slide pins are sealed with a boot. Then yes. Grease them. But these are exposed pins like a Toyota 4 runner front caliper. You do not grease this style.
Hi John. Thanks for the great video! I just bought my first GW, and it is in need of brakes. Your demonstration and explanation were very succinct and very easy to follow. This really is a no-brainer in terms of complexity, but it never hurts to get instructions for things we've never done before; ESPECIALLY brakes on a motorcycle! LOL Looking forward to checking out your other videos on the Gold Wings!
Ok. I bought the pads from you guys for my first Goldwing - a used '16 F6B Deluxe. I watched this video, and then went out to the garage to change the pads. 6 minutes later, I found myself just laying there on my side on the garage floor thinking "Something must be wrong. It couldn't have been this fast and easy." I literally laid there wondering if I did something wrong longer than it took me to change the pads on both sides. I gotta say that I have been completely blown away by Honda and my F6B so far. I'm wondering why I was so reluctant to make the switch from a problematic '15 Harley CVO Road Glide Ultra to the Goldwing? I'm so incredibly stupid for falling for the whole Harley thing for so long. Everything I've done to the Goldwing has been such a breeze. Everything I hadda do with the Harley was always such a PITA. No more. I'm sold on the Honda Goldwing hook, line, and sinker.
great point, i am in the same bucket now, looking for 15/16' f6b models, but hard 2find w low miles, guess they all read your post here and smartened up! lol...i cannot believe he didn't take the caliper off? if i buy the bike one day, i mite actually let honda change b/c teh labor shld b so much less!
Welcome to the Oldwing crowd Ace
@@Andy-hr2ui Several times now. It's not too bad. It is one of the poor design points that Honda dropped the ball on. Don't feel worried about tackling it yourself and saving a LOTTA dough. There are lots of really good, detailed videos on how to do it.
One thing to add...check the brake fluid reservoir level BEFORE prying the old pads apart. If it is full, it could overflow and ruin your paint. I always take out most of the fluid first. If the reservoir has any sediment, now is a great time to do a thorogh flush.
Do you not recommend using anti squeak lube on the backing plates?
This video was helpful my front tire is off had new tires put on should rim be put back on first before changing pads
Thanks for the video. I did order the pads from you all and they sent me 3 sets of the OEM 06455-MCA-016 pads as your salesman said the pads were the same for the front left and right and rear and your link in the video showed the same thing.
In your video you said to put the pad with the shim on the inside.
That works for the front left however, not for the front right or the rear caliper. The shim cannot be reversed to the other pad due to the extra hole for the pin.
I used the shims off my other (used) pads for the opposite side as they were aftermarket and did not have the hold for the pin to go through. Something is not right here however I did get the job done.
is it me, or did he not take the entire caliper out and replace the pads? he did it with them on, amazon honda engineering, no wonder they re gna try2run this country soon enuff.........great job! wonder if honda dealer still charges alot for such a quick job
My 2013 F6B front pads had no shims when I removed them. What function do they perform and should I have them. Bikes performed flawlessly for 123,000 mi
Any idea why my rear brake would start dragging on my ‘05 Goldwing?
More like skill level 0.5--Just did mine on my 2017 F6B and I would add when you pump the brakes back up--also do the foot break (front & back are linked)--mine was way to squishy when I did the initial ride. SUPER simple process.
Thanks I learned something today. Always a student ready to learn. But do you have a video on how to remove left caliper bracket ? Is it supposed to feel a little wobbly? Like loose . There’s 2 bolts one fork and the other to hydraulic plunger or something. Lol,
New subscriber with a question - I purchased this used 2006 Goldwing and I can't get any power from the red auxiliary cable in the behind the left pocket - can you do a video on how to replace that cable? Or send me a how to directions? thanks!
how do I check and adjust gap between brake pad and roter
How about bleeding brakes any video on that
Thanks for having us save money!
Great video except the part about collapsing the rotor part. Can't see either side what the heck I am looking for. I will see if another channel has a better upclose picture. Thanks for the rest though.
One other thing that isn't mentioned in these videos... when you are finished, BEFORE riding, make sure you pump your brakes back up to get the new shoes against the rotors. You will have no brakes until you do and you don't want to find that out too late.
A valid point, sir!
Great video, thanks!
I just did it and it really is as simple as you said it was. Thanks for the helpful video!
So you don't recommend cleaning the pistons before pushing them back in or lubricating the back and ends of the new pads before putting them in? What kind of mechanic are you?
Question my good friend what kind of torque wrench did you use replacing the front brake pads because you did not say the name of that torque wrench..????
It’s a snap on torque wrench. I’ve got one. They are about $450.
CAN YOU PLEASE SHOW HOW TO REPLACE FRONT BRAKES ON A 2003 HONDA ST 1300. THANK AGAIN.
My pad change was far from easy. I did everything described here, yet my new Partzilla pads seemed too thick for both to be installed...caliper bore was pressed just as instructed. Front pads I got from partzilla where bike master 96-1495
I read every so often, that I should clean the pistons with brake cleaner before I push them back in? Any opinions on that? I'm done the pads before and didn't do that, but it does make sense. I worry about getting brake cleaner on areas I don't want it. Like the paint and wheels/rims. Thanks for giving the torque specs.
You can clean them without brake cleaner. You don't want to affect the seals.
twowheeled, You are absolutely correct. The reason Why the Pistons should be cleaned before being pushed back in a caliper, Is because The caliper dust seal can't remove baked on brake dust from the piston.
Brake clean "Does not" harm the seals.
I use a cleaner called awesome, and an old toothbrush. Rinsed off with a spray bottle of plain water.
What is the difference from right to left.??????????????????????????????????
Nice-simple-great video-very helpful-thanks
One of the few things you do to a wing that is simple
We STILL talk about changing the air filter. Practically had to take it apart.
you are the best in the youtube A++++++
excellent thank you so much
I was looking for it
Nice video,thanks.
The pushing the piston back into the caliper bore was very poorly shown. I can't tell at all what you are talking about or doing, and since that's the first step this video is useless. Your oil change video was so good I expected better.
This bike has ABS....You are playing with fire to just compress the pads without loosening the bleeder valve...Pushing dirty fluid backwards into the Anti-lock servo can cause mushy brakes and bite you in the wallet....It doesn't take much loosening to get it to bleed, and then tighten it right back up without touching anything else and you won't suck any air in....
Whoever told you that isn't a motorcycle mechanic.
Great Video...
Honda lists 2 sets of pads for the front. The left front pads wear about double the rate of the right.
Pads are the same. If you need to change pads you can reuse the shim. Other than that the pads are the same.
As for getting the pistons back into the caliper, pushing on the caliper works best. It let's you check for a stuck slider.
Make sure the pistons are clean before you push them back into the bores. Give them a good spray of brake cleaner.
And don't forget to pump the hand AND foot brake to reseat the pistons against the rotors before you ride.
Don't waste your time or money on aftermarket pads. Honda OEM only way to go.
Good man
Mallu traveller കണ്ട് വന്നതാ 😄😄
Are you serious, it's that easy
I see they took out good pads to make a video. (Notice they didn't show you what to look for in a worn pad?)
You must always Clean and grease the caliper slider pins, so the caliper can "Float" and not wear pads prematurely/unevenly.
Changing pads the way the video portrays is for emergency's only!, to get you home to do the job correctly.
The way they show to replace pads in the video is how my Gl1800 Honda Service manual says how to do it.
I would suggest raising the front by jacking under the oil pan. While the brake pads are out on both sides, spin the wheel to check your bearings.
Lubing the pins will just attract brake dust and other debris causing more problems than it’s helping. Now if it’s a car and the slide pins are sealed with a boot. Then yes. Grease them. But these are exposed pins like a Toyota 4 runner front caliper. You do not grease this style.
Amazing