I do alot of side work outside oof my full-time job but I've got a maxima water pump to do next week end I'm not to sure what price to charge I was thinking around two hundred is that to cheap or to much? What do you guys think please any one out there give me your thoughts this will be my first time doing this type of job why can't it be simple like any other water pump thanks
See this could be a tricky job to price out. Off top i would probably charge(labor only) around $300-400 For a few reasons. One your dealing with a timing belt so if not done right your gonna end up owing the customer. Not as simple a brake job. If a bolt drops in the timing case/engine that'll be a problem. There's access covers to the tensioner and water pump to assist in this job so realistically the job can be done in an hour or so but you can't price a job off how fast u can get in done but price the job based on it's severity and process that u have to take. This job takes mechanical knowledge that your average person doesn't know(if not a auto technician) and that's not free. You have to charge for your knowledge and time so if anything don't cheap out. If u think $200 is fair go for it THANKS FOR WATCHING SUBSCRIBE AND STAY TUNED FOR MORE🤝‼️
@@louiecallela8897 thanks for bringing this up. It’s a bit of a taboo subject cause everyone’s been brainwashed by this competition economy and jobs that tell you that you can’t talk to your peers about things like salary or that it’s rude to ask your boss what he charges for your labor vs what you’re payed. Truth is nobody on here is in direct competition with each other and none of us that do this on the side are pulling business from actual professional mechanics because call any shop for any job right now and you’ll discover that if they are worth a damn they have a wait list a month long. There’s more than enough work to be done we have the reck we should be transparent about stuff like this. Reddit has some good groups for all professions to find pricing advice as well.
To anyone doing this job... per the service manual you are correctly supposed to use 8MM bolts to pull the pump away from the block. These bolts are not supposed to go into the block at all. They will thread into the holes of the water pump and as you tighten them down they will just push against the block and push the pump out. DO NOT USE M6-1.0 bolts for this purpose.
So the m8 bolts won’t damage the threads in the block or is the Diameter of the bolt to big, I would be worried that I mess up the threads in the block.
Pulled it out wit 2 flat head screw drivers took a little min but it was better than walking to a store. Put a rag to get more slack from the other side. The bungee cord joint is genius my boy. Good lookin out
Never seen you before. Good video, about to do this to my roommates car 05 g35 4dr. She's an older lady can't afford to have it done, I help her out some. Question If I'm using the original chain tensioner can I relax the pin and spring it back to make it put tension back on the chain?
My car did the same thing regarding the heater. There was a air pocket in coolant. It needed to be bled with a spill proof funnel. That bleed screw your pointing to is not sufficient to remove all air
@@PhillyDee215 I did. Good chance that pump was not bad. Didn't look like there was any staining on the pump from the weep hole best I could see. Impeller on pump appeared good. You never mentioned you were losing coolant. Doesn't make much sense the car was cooling fine but your heater was acting up. I experienced same issue. As a matter of fact I don't even have the plastic bleed in back anymore. I just bled it thoroughly and problem vanished. Classic Z air pocket in coolant system symptom.
Yes, your gonna use a bolt with the same thread pitch but longer to press it out. Going back in your gonna use the original bolts to pull and tightened the water pump back in. Thanks for watching Subscribe & stay Tuned for more‼️🤝
You can actually use a small film of oil around the water pump O-Ring, coolant itself, lil silicone, or even a lil bit of dialectic grease/etc. Either one of these will also help the water pump press back in easier THANKS FOR WATCHING SUBSCRIBE AND STAY TUNED FOR MORE🤝‼️
Well u don't bleed from there....you just drain from there only. It removes the coolant from the engine block opposed to the radiator petcock/drain only drains the coolant from out of the radiator itself. The water pump is the block....that's why u wanna drain the block. Hope I helped you Thanks for watching Subscribe & stay Tuned for more‼️🤝
If its milky than that may be your head gasket. Head gasket can fail in a few ways and the oil system is one of them Thanks for watching Subscribe & stay Tuned for more‼️🤝
It'll take maybe an hour or so(if not recording like i was) plus the coolant bleeding. I tried to be detailed as possible bc this job can turn catastrophic if not done right. I talk a lil slow in this video🤣but if u pay attention I give a bunch of tips and tricks to help u out on this job THANKS FOR WATCHING SUBSCRIBE AND STAY TUNED FOR MORE🤝‼️
It helps a lot both on the tensioner and water pump side. A jar of like 20 miniature bungee cords cost only like $10 from Amazon. Better to have multiple cords so they can assist u in multiple ways at the same time THANKS FOR WATCHING SUBSCRIBE AND STAY TUNED FOR MORE🤝‼️
One video says to turn the engine at the crank just slap it clw and that will give you enough slack to get the pump out of course you said to be careful with the bolts
I took the drain plug out and got some coolant out but i didnt get nearly as much fluid, maybe 6 oz so I'm concerned. Any comments would be appreciated
@@skytech_00 definitely wouldn't hurt if you did, just make sure they're the correct size. You can buy the measuring tool that i used in the video to verify that you have the right sized bolts and of course you can use it with any bolts you come across. It was a few dollars off of Amazon
Depends on the shop and their hourly rate. Its a easy but serious job bc your dealing with the timing chain. On the cheap side $400-600 parts and labor. Expensive side $600 or more, some shops I've seen over $1000 THANKS FOR WATCHING, SUBSCRIBE AND STAY TUNED FOR MORE🤝‼️
@@PhillyDee215 in other words the mechanics will rip you wide open from the rear buttocks🤣😂🤣I'm happy I have the health and knowledge to do things myself lol
I forget all the years but definitely on the VQ35DE with the access covers like mine. Mine is a 05' AWD Thanks for watching Subscribe & stay Tuned for more‼️🤝
@@PhillyDee215 so you drain oil at first and then the coolant from the 12mm bolt? How exactly did you loosen the belt to pull it out of the way for you to access the pump?
@@RiseUpRoyalAce the serpentine belt? I never removed it bc u don't have to. If anything like I did I just held it up with a bunjee cord so I wouldn't have to hold it with my hands Timing belt, u just have to remove the Timing tensioner itself
@@RiseUpRoyalAce yeah....you only need the coolant to be as low as the water pump itself or u can just drain the block. The radiator doesn't need to be drained out unless u want to. The oil don't need to be drained neither but I would(i did it in this but didn't record it)
Its pretty similar if I can remember correctly, but I think on those you have to remove a lil bit more. Thanks for watching Subscribe & stay Tuned for more‼️🤝
If I could remember correctly I believe in the video I showed how to measure a bolt with a simple $8 bolt measuring gauge. If your knowledgeable enough to tackle a timing chain related job then u should be knowledgeable enough to know when a bolt size is not right. Now a M6 and M8 are two different sizes so im not sure how u were able to make a $500 mistake without realizing your were making a $500 mistake. M6 would've fell into a M8 hole beings though it's two sizes bigger and u should've noticed that before u were even able to damage anything. Maybe a job like this was too much for u, and even though u may watch a video you still have to do your own thinking Thanks for watching Subscribe & stay Tuned for more‼️🤝
I do alot of side work outside oof my full-time job but I've got a maxima water pump to do next week end I'm not to sure what price to charge I was thinking around two hundred is that to cheap or to much? What do you guys think please any one out there give me your thoughts this will be my first time doing this type of job why can't it be simple like any other water pump thanks
See this could be a tricky job to price out. Off top i would probably charge(labor only) around $300-400
For a few reasons. One your dealing with a timing belt so if not done right your gonna end up owing the customer. Not as simple a brake job. If a bolt drops in the timing case/engine that'll be a problem.
There's access covers to the tensioner and water pump to assist in this job so realistically the job can be done in an hour or so but you can't price a job off how fast u can get in done but price the job based on it's severity and process that u have to take.
This job takes mechanical knowledge that your average person doesn't know(if not a auto technician) and that's not free. You have to charge for your knowledge and time so if anything don't cheap out. If u think $200 is fair go for it
THANKS FOR WATCHING SUBSCRIBE AND STAY TUNED FOR MORE🤝‼️
I finished the water pump on 2010 maxima im to disapointed to say how long it took but i know next one i do i have to charge a minimum of 400.00
@@PhillyDee215 thank you much for
@@louiscallela6265 Glad I could help
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@@louiecallela8897 thanks for bringing this up. It’s a bit of a taboo subject cause everyone’s been brainwashed by this competition economy and jobs that tell you that you can’t talk to your peers about things like salary or that it’s rude to ask your boss what he charges for your labor vs what you’re payed. Truth is nobody on here is in direct competition with each other and none of us that do this on the side are pulling business from actual professional mechanics because call any shop for any job right now and you’ll discover that if they are worth a damn they have a wait list a month long. There’s more than enough work to be done we have the reck we should be transparent about stuff like this. Reddit has some good groups for all professions to find pricing advice as well.
It's like you were reading my mind. Every time I had a question you answered it within a minute!
To anyone doing this job... per the service manual you are correctly supposed to use 8MM bolts to pull the pump away from the block. These bolts are not supposed to go into the block at all. They will thread into the holes of the water pump and as you tighten them down they will just push against the block and push the pump out. DO NOT USE M6-1.0 bolts for this purpose.
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Bruh
I broke a piece of my block with the 6 smh
So the m8 bolts won’t damage the threads in the block or is the Diameter of the bolt to big, I would be worried that I mess up the threads in the block.
@@tonyzook4064I broke my block with 6 use 8 it'll work perfect bro
you need M8 1.25mm bolts at 50mm length prodemand has a full repair n replacement procedure that calls for that specific bolt to get the pump out
Is prodemand a website
Is this same procedure as a Infiniti m35?
Bro so I didn’t know about the bolts and one broke 😭 so I can use the other hole with the m6 bolts to push it out
Pulled it out wit 2 flat head screw drivers took a little min but it was better than walking to a store. Put a rag to get more slack from the other side. The bungee cord joint is genius my boy. Good lookin out
Glad to help bro.....💪
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Thanks for watching🙏
Share & Subscribe 4 more🔥
How did you find top dead center? Im about to do my water pump today and dont want the chain slipping
Did it go good???
@@LoveMeKnot yeah it wasnt that hard to be honest just make sure you look up the 350z service manual
Great details thank you for this video you just saved me a bunch of time my guy!! Of to get 8mm bolts!✌🏽
Never seen you before. Good video, about to do this to my roommates car 05 g35 4dr. She's an older lady can't afford to have it done, I help her out some. Question If I'm using the original chain tensioner can I relax the pin and spring it back to make it put tension back on the chain?
I would recommend using a new tensioner......but yes it should work
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My car did the same thing regarding the heater. There was a air pocket in coolant. It needed to be bled with a spill proof funnel. That bleed screw your pointing to is not sufficient to remove all air
Exactly....if you watched the whole video I also used the spill free funnel. Definitely both procedures are needed
@@PhillyDee215 I did. Good chance that pump was not bad. Didn't look like there was any staining on the pump from the weep hole best I could see. Impeller on pump appeared good. You never mentioned you were losing coolant. Doesn't make much sense the car was cooling fine but your heater was acting up. I experienced same issue. As a matter of fact I don't even have the plastic bleed in back anymore. I just bled it thoroughly and problem vanished. Classic Z air pocket in coolant system symptom.
@@alexduran6742 nope I wasn't loosing coolant but the heat did return with the new pump I installed.
I done get this, now are the same holes that hold the water pump in going to be used to press the pump out then press it back in.
Yes, your gonna use a bolt with the same thread pitch but longer to press it out. Going back in your gonna use the original bolts to pull and tightened the water pump back in.
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Hi quick question. On O ring you put black and red after that. Is that the way it's go??
You can actually use a small film of oil around the water pump O-Ring, coolant itself, lil silicone, or even a lil bit of dialectic grease/etc. Either one of these will also help the water pump press back in easier
THANKS FOR WATCHING SUBSCRIBE AND STAY TUNED FOR MORE🤝‼️
I didn't understand how exactly do you drain the coolant from that "drain bolt" so no coolant enters flows to the oil pan....
Well u don't bleed from there....you just drain from there only. It removes the coolant from the engine block opposed to the radiator petcock/drain only drains the coolant from out of the radiator itself. The water pump is the block....that's why u wanna drain the block. Hope I helped you
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What caused you to change the water pump were you getting milky oil cause that’s what I’m gettin rn and I don’t think I blew my head gaskets
Wrote this comment jus before 12:00
If its milky than that may be your head gasket. Head gasket can fail in a few ways and the oil system is one of them
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Thank you so much for this knowledge I plan on doing this soon. How long did it take you to complete the job?
It'll take maybe an hour or so(if not recording like i was) plus the coolant bleeding. I tried to be detailed as possible bc this job can turn catastrophic if not done right.
I talk a lil slow in this video🤣but if u pay attention I give a bunch of tips and tricks to help u out on this job
THANKS FOR WATCHING SUBSCRIBE AND STAY TUNED FOR MORE🤝‼️
Great tip with the elastic cord / bungee to hold tension arm
It helps a lot both on the tensioner and water pump side. A jar of like 20 miniature bungee cords cost only like $10 from Amazon. Better to have multiple cords so they can assist u in multiple ways at the same time
THANKS FOR WATCHING SUBSCRIBE AND STAY TUNED FOR MORE🤝‼️
One video says to turn the engine at the crank just slap it clw and that will give you enough slack to get the pump out of course you said to be careful with the bolts
Yeah be careful you don't wanna drop nothing in there
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Wait, so you gotta tighten the water pump to pop it out???
Well u have to use the screws to press it out and to pull it back into place
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So we’re does the coolant actually leak from if the water pump sits behind the plate, would the gasket be bad an not the water pump
I took the drain plug out and got some coolant out but i didnt get nearly as much fluid, maybe 6 oz so I'm concerned. Any comments would be appreciated
As long as the level went below the water pump you should be fine
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What is the m6 and m8 referring to?
The diameter of the water pump bolts
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@@PhillyDee215 Do you think i should get new water pump bolts when i change the water pump?
@@skytech_00 definitely wouldn't hurt if you did, just make sure they're the correct size. You can buy the measuring tool that i used in the video to verify that you have the right sized bolts and of course you can use it with any bolts you come across. It was a few dollars off of Amazon
How much do mechanics charge to do this?
Depends on the shop and their hourly rate. Its a easy but serious job bc your dealing with the timing chain. On the cheap side $400-600 parts and labor. Expensive side $600 or more, some shops I've seen over $1000
THANKS FOR WATCHING, SUBSCRIBE AND STAY TUNED FOR MORE🤝‼️
@@PhillyDee215 in other words the mechanics will rip you wide open from the rear buttocks🤣😂🤣I'm happy I have the health and knowledge to do things myself lol
M6 was too small for my 2003 350z. The bolts broke while tightening and snapped off inside the threads.
You'll need a bolt extractor to get them out
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Same for me made me wanna slap somebody
@DonnieLarkins curious to know what you did to fix this. Same thing happened to me
I still had a little showing so I tac welded a nut to it and was able to back it out after
@@c0dycod3z damn I wasn’t quite so lucky! Once you got it out what bolt size did you use to get the water pump out?
What are the bolts you used to push out the pump??
M6x1.0/six Inches long should be enough
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Appreciate it D.
Glad to help....
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How much would you charge me to do mine ? Lol I’m in Philly
Oh so u want me to drop your bolt into the crankcase😅😉
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The bolts aren’t supposed to thread in. They thread onto the flange on the pump not into the motor
I used m8 bolts
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@@frickbosswhat kind
What year does this work for ??
I forget all the years but definitely on the VQ35DE with the access covers like mine. Mine is a 05' AWD
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Wish you wouldve showed us how to put it together step by step
What part did you miss...🤔....let me know
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@@PhillyDee215 so you drain oil at first and then the coolant from the 12mm bolt? How exactly did you loosen the belt to pull it out of the way for you to access the pump?
@@RiseUpRoyalAce the serpentine belt? I never removed it bc u don't have to. If anything like I did I just held it up with a bunjee cord so I wouldn't have to hold it with my hands
Timing belt, u just have to remove the Timing tensioner itself
@@PhillyDee215 did you only have to drain the coolant?
@@RiseUpRoyalAce yeah....you only need the coolant to be as low as the water pump itself or u can just drain the block. The radiator doesn't need to be drained out unless u want to.
The oil don't need to be drained neither but I would(i did it in this but didn't record it)
Great detail Thanks!!
Glad to help.....
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How about g37x
Its pretty similar if I can remember correctly, but I think on those you have to remove a lil bit more.
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Bro whatever yall DO DONT USE 6M I BROKE A PIECE OF MY BLOCK OFF itll go into your block and mess it up.
Don’t use m6 it broke my block he ruind my car got a whole nother car used 8m bolts work fucking perfect
Don't use m6 use m8 this simple mistake ended up costing me another $500+ in repairs.
If I could remember correctly I believe in the video I showed how to measure a bolt with a simple $8 bolt measuring gauge. If your knowledgeable enough to tackle a timing chain related job then u should be knowledgeable enough to know when a bolt size is not right. Now a M6 and M8 are two different sizes so im not sure how u were able to make a $500 mistake without realizing your were making a $500 mistake. M6 would've fell into a M8 hole beings though it's two sizes bigger and u should've noticed that before u were even able to damage anything. Maybe a job like this was too much for u, and even though u may watch a video you still have to do your own thinking
Thanks for watching Subscribe & stay Tuned for more‼️🤝