UPDATES: After a year, I can confirm that I'd recommend using a higher quality clear coat. This clear coat has faded and become rough. I'd recommend spending money for a higher quality clear coat. Also, be sure to use a UV resin designed for outdoors! Materials Used (Affiliate links for which I may be compensated) Venom Composites Chopped Carbon: amzn.to/3JM2IVx Carbon Fiber Roller: amzn.to/3AaBF2K Peel Ply: amzn.to/3SGLaOr Sanding Disks: amzn.to/3QhDoZU Sand Paper: amzn.to/3vXbIRY Polish: amzn.to/3zKmDQ4
Hey mate. There is a way to greatly improve "flatness" of surface. After you peeled off that peel ply and sand it, simply put 3 heavy coats of resin 1-2 hours apart from each other (See datasheet of your resin to know then the "B stage" is). This will build up a thick layer which will close low spots between chopped fabric. After 48 hours or even better 72, sand it as flat as you can again, do that trick with a syringe (if even needed) and apply last cosmetic resin coat when resin from syringe gets to B stage again. Try it next time bro, you will see the result will be waaaay better :)
It's wrong and looks amaturish. If he had done the proper resin coats after the initial lay-up, it could have come out like glass. Not like a dimpled mess.
Not skinned in wont. Full carbon can though 🤣 all you need is one of my fancy hardtop molds. Or try your hand at 3d printing a "negative mold" but that usually wont be thick enough
He did a good job explaining for sure but he was so close to having an almost flawless finish I would have done a 4th coat after the syringe to get a good base to be able to sand down especially if the clear ever did peel you'll have plenty of material to sand and be able to get multiple life times out of the part.
Its important to mention that you dont want to wax fresh paint for at least 30 days and you dont want to ceramic coat for at least 6 months to let the paint cure first. Otherwise you can trap solvents in the paint and cause issues.
@@thefinaltouchdetailinggrap4409 Mate I've painted cars for 14years. It takes 4months at least for paint to fully harden. I see "detailing" in your name though, definitely sounds like a detailers sale pitch so it all makes sense 😂
@@thefinaltouchdetailinggrap4409 keep in mind the first statement was correct , if you are spraying automotive paint made for cars then the 90 day rule applies, however as Bdnfinc doesn't go further into on and should have , the majority of today's automotive paints are low VOC , however most canned spray paints are not low VOC and thus take longer times to outgass and should you check the compliantcies you will note some of the clear coats are based epoxies and others are based Lacquer, and the Lac takes even longer at time depending on quality and coats applied to cure. What is low VOC automotive paint? Low VOC paints have been engineered to have fewer harmful chemicals. Instead, these products are primarily water-based, which is harmless to the environment.
That is dependant on the type of ceramic coating or graphing coating. I’ve waiting 6 weeks and had dramas and I’ve waited 3 weeks with no issues. All do to do with the paint type etc
I wasn't expecting much when I started watching this video but I'm impressed. Your video was extremely well done. Great video, great narration and descriptions. I have a University degree in Plastics Engineering Technology and and have been painting cars for 30 years, I wouldn't have done it much different than you did. I do wonder though, what's the weight difference before and after? Looks excellent, nice job
@@CashedOutCars The small increase in weight more than makes up for the increase in rigidity of the top. I've got a hardtop that's basically as rough as this one. This video may have given me the inspiration to do the exact same thing. 👍
Nice video. Like how the Forged came out. I do carbonfiber overlay as a Job. I do a Lot of this. People don't realize just how much Time is involved. Great job man. I've done a Lot of Forged/chopped carbon parts. Most is 1/2 inch or 1 inch strands
When I worked on a large multi car NHRA team, the funny car bodies came in as a show and then the Fab shop would build the internal trees and firewalls and all that stuff, it was really really cool to get to talk to guys that worked on Indy cars and things like that in the fabrication shop and get to work on and learn all those different things! I never made anything like what the composite shops would do, not by a long shot but you're exactly right, the amount of work that the places that built the parts would put in I mean just a little box that held the radio was just an absurd amount of hours, I got to go to this place is quite a bit as well and the guys that are good are just that they are really damn good! This is not my trade like it is yours but it's always really cool to see people get excited about something you do for a living, like in your case!
very good video and good job, apparently another resin lamination is needed to cover all the low points that are seen with the application of the transparent varnish, once polished all the imperfections appear.
I like the idea of using peel ply and rolling over that. Just wondering if maybe next time it would be beneficial to vacuum bag it? Thanks for sharing the process!
To help with dry spots add extra epoxy over the peel ply this also works for doing it with carbon fiber cloth. working it in until you see no change in color.
Nice job Bro! Loved the idea of the peal ply, I made a custom door card for mine and used the carbon material, with all the curves and highs/lows the material was a bit unforgiving, this lead me to rethink. I think forged is the way to go on curvy bits. Will have to give it a go next summer. Thanks for the video 👍
Looks good. I'd suggest using a 2 part clear coat (like spray max 2k clear) as it will go on a lot thicker and get very hard so it can actually be buffed/polished. The single part clear coats in a spray can isn't strong enough to do that.
Thanks for the tip! I might respray it, as this clear did definitely start to dull a bit. It still looks great, but doesn’t shine quite as much as it used to
Just a head up avoid using any bondo on an SMC part. When you sand it, release agent will be released. Always use some kind of epoxy based filler. They have stuff specifically for this, such as repair kits for corvettes, or upol sells a good product that's carbon fiber reinforced.
It comes out much better when you pour epoxy over things. You let gravity level the epoxy and fill in gaps. Its messier but you're only left with the drips on the edges which are easily sanded down. Window removal is required with this process but worth it in the end.
I just found recently found your channel and have been watching a bunch of your Miata vids. My father gave me his 1990 Miata and it needs some love. I was wondering if you could do a video on where you source your Miata parts from. That would be a huge help for me as I start to plan out my Miata's repairs. Thanks!
I’m going to be doing carbon fiber flakes on my bike plastics and Im looking at all the videos and trying to see what strategy to pick, I’m just doing my research on where to get some carbon fiber and what type of epoxy and also the seeing what would be the best outcome
I guess I’ve got a new project lol. Great video! Just throwing it out there, there are resins like the ones that they use in boat glass that have UV protection built into them. That and your clear coat would prevent the lay up from oxidizing and turning green. Also avoid getting the carbon dust on you, it’s some really irritating crap and disposable coveralls are cheap.
So far so good on this resin in the sun, but I agree, the more UV protectant the better. Also yeah, carbon dust absolutely sucks to get on your skin and clothes
Final product came out looking great!!! Spray paint skills are singing to be sought after... 😅 Spray in straight lines, running off each edge of the part... Helps with overlap and controlling dry spots...
Looks really good, might consider doing this on a few pieces Although I need to ask, is this how you talk IRL? You sound like a text-to-speech computer program 😂😂
Honest question, if skinning is purely cosmetic and not structural then why not just do a vinyl wrap in the carbon fiber style? They're extremely realistic looking nowadays and it's all cosmetic anyway.
You used Rust-Oleum 2x clear after this beautiful work?? Did you consider an activated 2 part clear instead? I've never had issues with plastic with that stuff.
If one were to paint 100% of the surface black as is common noted, Isnt the black paint the actual bond between the base surface and everything else. Is the paint bond to the base surface really that strong..What dont i understand?
try and use mipa p67s if you can get it in the US. its a clear primer you spray on but need a gun with 2.5 - 3mm nozzle. once you have sanded the carbon and put on 2 coats of resin and sanded that use the clear primer. its pretty thick and fills in any imperfections. do not thin the primer with anything. once primer is on its really easy to sand smooth ready for clear coat.
I decided to take a shot every time he says "I went ahead" I made it 7 minutes into the video, now I'm naked on my garage floor with no idea what in the hell I'm doing here.
I appreciate the video but as someone who builds cars and uses forged carbon figure parts I thinks it’s important to notate that this part didn’t come out well from what I could see it were quiet a bit if spots in the finished product due to inconsistencies in the way you applied and sanded your layers of epoxy , probably should have been more forth coming on thag
Next time you should do more heavy coats of resin but wait till the Coat gets Reeealy Sticky before you put the Next Coat on it. So it will be thicker and you wont have to Sand so much, the surface will be flat
Good job on the video production.. Ya got most the idea but lots of miscues on the application and products. Rattle can paint under resins is not a great idea and chances of delam will be high. A base black tinted layer of resin will be much better. While the mas lv is a decent resin system it's heat deflection temp is very low for automotive uae and doesn't have good uv protection. Using a coated peel ply rather than a economy peel ply will pull off much easier.. You can wet out over the peel ply on any dry areas. Hope these tips help out on your next go
Can you forged carbon fiber skin a carbon fiber part? I’m looking for a forged carbon fiber wing for my Mazdaspeed but they only come in “regular” carbon fiber
I'm pretty sure you burned through that rattle can clear pretty easily just by sanding with P320, from there you are pretty much just refining/polishing the epoxy resin. I would recommend using a 2k clear coat sprayed with a $15 gun from HarborFreight if on a budget. Results will be 100% better than any rattle can clear.
Well done looks cool but for my taste it does look a little rough, you could go over with more clear epoxy and fill in all those holes but you'll need to sand again etc... I undersand it took you very long time and thats why you didn't went the extra effort to cover all the holes, but you were so close to make it look perfect . the holes will gather dust and dirt inside and will stand out like a sore thumb
UPDATES: After a year, I can confirm that I'd recommend using a higher quality clear coat. This clear coat has faded and become rough. I'd recommend spending money for a higher quality clear coat. Also, be sure to use a UV resin designed for outdoors!
Materials Used (Affiliate links for which I may be compensated)
Venom Composites Chopped Carbon: amzn.to/3JM2IVx
Carbon Fiber Roller: amzn.to/3AaBF2K
Peel Ply: amzn.to/3SGLaOr
Sanding Disks: amzn.to/3QhDoZU
Sand Paper: amzn.to/3vXbIRY
Polish: amzn.to/3zKmDQ4
Shoot wish I could f8nd someone to fully carbon fiber my whole new chevy tahoe like that hard top
how much of the chopped carbon did you use?
Pravim fiber camce..primetio sam da mu je ostalo puno rupica u zavrsenom radu.
Hey mate. There is a way to greatly improve "flatness" of surface. After you peeled off that peel ply and sand it, simply put 3 heavy coats of resin 1-2 hours apart from each other (See datasheet of your resin to know then the "B stage" is). This will build up a thick layer which will close low spots between chopped fabric. After 48 hours or even better 72, sand it as flat as you can again, do that trick with a syringe (if even needed) and apply last cosmetic resin coat when resin from syringe gets to B stage again.
Try it next time bro, you will see the result will be waaaay better :)
I kept waiting on this step but it turned out decent, just needed this 1 extra step and it would have been perfect 🤩
That's what I was thinking. So much work to only get an "okish" look.
This tutorial is criminally underrated, beautiful work!
Thank you!!
It's wrong and looks amaturish. If he had done the proper resin coats after the initial lay-up, it could have come out like glass. Not like a dimpled mess.
The best of all , his English is so clear to understand it , great video
This is a great way to make miata hardtops worth $7k 👌🤣
No low ballers , I know what I got
Honestly worth less now
Carbon fiber add extra weight 😂
Not skinned in wont. Full carbon can though 🤣 all you need is one of my fancy hardtop molds. Or try your hand at 3d printing a "negative mold" but that usually wont be thick enough
As if we didn’t need more crap driving the factory hardtop prices up.
Dude, you did a great job explaining step by step instructions on how to do this.
He did a good job explaining for sure but he was so close to having an almost flawless finish I would have done a 4th coat after the syringe to get a good base to be able to sand down especially if the clear ever did peel you'll have plenty of material to sand and be able to get multiple life times out of the part.
Every time he says “went ahead”… take a drink.
So you can die from alcohol poisoning? 😂
I'm sooooo wasted.
You should of out another coat of apoxy for a “leveling” coat then sand it down a lot to be perfectly smooth then prep for clear
Its important to mention that you dont want to wax fresh paint for at least 30 days and you dont want to ceramic coat for at least 6 months to let the paint cure first. Otherwise you can trap solvents in the paint and cause issues.
It’s actually 90 days for waxing or coating. A coating is more breathable than wax as well
@@thefinaltouchdetailinggrap4409 Mate I've painted cars for 14years. It takes 4months at least for paint to fully harden. I see "detailing" in your name though, definitely sounds like a detailers sale pitch so it all makes sense 😂
@@Dj.Ray.Von. but isn't every paint different in terms of how long it takes too fully cure?
@@thefinaltouchdetailinggrap4409 keep in mind the first statement was correct , if you are spraying automotive paint made for cars then the 90 day rule applies, however as Bdnfinc doesn't go further into on and should have , the majority of today's automotive paints are low VOC , however most canned spray paints are not low VOC and thus take longer times to outgass and should you check the compliantcies you will note some of the clear coats are based epoxies and others are based Lacquer, and the Lac takes even longer at time depending on quality and coats applied to cure.
What is low VOC automotive paint?
Low VOC paints have been engineered to have fewer harmful chemicals. Instead, these products are primarily water-based, which is harmless to the environment.
That is dependant on the type of ceramic coating or graphing coating. I’ve waiting 6 weeks and had dramas and I’ve waited 3 weeks with no issues. All do to do with the paint type etc
I wasn't expecting much when I started watching this video but I'm impressed. Your video was extremely well done. Great video, great narration and descriptions. I have a University degree in Plastics Engineering Technology and and have been painting cars for 30 years, I wouldn't have done it much different than you did. I do wonder though, what's the weight difference before and after? Looks excellent, nice job
Thanks so much! It probably added 5 lbs or so. About 1.5 lbs of carbon, and the rest resin and paint
@@CashedOutCars The small increase in weight more than makes up for the increase in rigidity of the top. I've got a hardtop that's basically as rough as this one. This video may have given me the inspiration to do the exact same thing. 👍
Farrrr that peel ply just changed my world man! THANK YOU!
Nice video. Like how the Forged came out. I do carbonfiber overlay as a Job. I do a Lot of this. People don't realize just how much Time is involved. Great job man. I've done a Lot of Forged/chopped carbon parts. Most is 1/2 inch or 1 inch strands
When I worked on a large multi car NHRA team, the funny car bodies came in as a show and then the Fab shop would build the internal trees and firewalls and all that stuff, it was really really cool to get to talk to guys that worked on Indy cars and things like that in the fabrication shop and get to work on and learn all those different things! I never made anything like what the composite shops would do, not by a long shot but you're exactly right, the amount of work that the places that built the parts would put in I mean just a little box that held the radio was just an absurd amount of hours, I got to go to this place is quite a bit as well and the guys that are good are just that they are really damn good!
This is not my trade like it is yours but it's always really cool to see people get excited about something you do for a living, like in your case!
How much carbon in weight do you think you used? Cant find an estimate anywhere and dont want to run out half way
very good video and good job, apparently another resin lamination is needed to cover all the low points that are seen with the application of the transparent varnish, once polished all the imperfections appear.
I like the idea of using peel ply and rolling over that. Just wondering if maybe next time it would be beneficial to vacuum bag it? Thanks for sharing the process!
Awsome video what I noticed vacuum bagging is best for forged don't be scared of resin as cloth well soak it up😊
I know this comment is super late but I'm thinking of skinning my ducati scrambler fueltank side panels. Great upload! Subscribing!
To help with dry spots add extra epoxy over the peel ply this also works for doing it with carbon fiber cloth. working it in until you see no change in color.
Good tip
Nice job Bro! Loved the idea of the peal ply, I made a custom door card for mine and used the carbon material, with all the curves and highs/lows the material was a bit unforgiving, this lead me to rethink. I think forged is the way to go on curvy bits. Will have to give it a go next summer. Thanks for the video 👍
While I'm not a fan of the chopped fiber look, you did a good video 👍
Nice save on the top. It's definitely an improvement. Looks like a few weeks of work through each step and all the sanding, resin, and polishing.
Thanks! It was definitely a ton of work. Happy with the result though!
Looks good. I'd suggest using a 2 part clear coat (like spray max 2k clear) as it will go on a lot thicker and get very hard so it can actually be buffed/polished. The single part clear coats in a spray can isn't strong enough to do that.
Thanks for the tip! I might respray it, as this clear did definitely start to dull a bit. It still looks great, but doesn’t shine quite as much as it used to
Just a head up avoid using any bondo on an SMC part. When you sand it, release agent will be released. Always use some kind of epoxy based filler. They have stuff specifically for this, such as repair kits for corvettes, or upol sells a good product that's carbon fiber reinforced.
Interesting, SMC is listed as a surface that bondoglass is "Great for use on" by 3M themselves: www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/v000146405/
I want to do my whole motorcycle like this. Thank you for showing how to
It comes out much better when you pour epoxy over things. You let gravity level the epoxy and fill in gaps. Its messier but you're only left with the drips on the edges which are easily sanded down. Window removal is required with this process but worth it in the end.
I just found recently found your channel and have been watching a bunch of your Miata vids. My father gave me his 1990 Miata and it needs some love. I was wondering if you could do a video on where you source your Miata parts from. That would be a huge help for me as I start to plan out my Miata's repairs. Thanks!
Can we get a "I went ahead" counter going?
Nice job but are there so many pinholes I see or is it the lighting? I’m still debating chopped or twill weave overlaying
I work with epoxy and resin, the best way to spread the resin is with a small squeegee.
How much carbon did you need to cover the whole roof?
I’m going to be doing carbon fiber flakes on my bike plastics and Im looking at all the videos and trying to see what strategy to pick, I’m just doing my research on where to get some carbon fiber and what type of epoxy and also the seeing what would be the best outcome
Thank you for this I’m thinking of doing this method on my bikecycle
This is so bad ass! Phenomenal work!
awesomely explained
looks amazing, but what's the point since the actual top par is underneath the carbonchopped layer. could have used plasticchips
I had never heard of this thank you.
Needed a lot more resin and sanding because there are still sooooo many pits in this thing
Alot of work man well done. I think I'll stick to painting 🎨🎨
Thanks! Definitely a ton of work, I'm glad it paid off!
Solid video great job my guy! My pull this off by spring on my miata of I get real ambitious!
You can do it! It's a huge process but looks pretty awesome when it's done!
I loved this video!
Thank you so much!
I'll be using Spectral paints they have a 2k clear with uv protection
Alternate title "How to make your car look like a kitchen bench top" :)
Looks great the finish
Bro, next level! How long did this take?
I guess I’ve got a new project lol. Great video! Just throwing it out there, there are resins like the ones that they use in boat glass that have UV protection built into them. That and your clear coat would prevent the lay up from oxidizing and turning green. Also avoid getting the carbon dust on you, it’s some really irritating crap and disposable coveralls are cheap.
So far so good on this resin in the sun, but I agree, the more UV protectant the better. Also yeah, carbon dust absolutely sucks to get on your skin and clothes
Final product came out looking great!!! Spray paint skills are singing to be sought after... 😅 Spray in straight lines, running off each edge of the part... Helps with overlap and controlling dry spots...
Learnt a lot!
What a great idea - finished product looks amazing against the red paint!
Thanks! It makes me enjoy my black wheels again
Looks amazing!
Looks really good, might consider doing this on a few pieces
Although I need to ask, is this how you talk IRL? You sound like a text-to-speech computer program 😂😂
Nice job , looks really cool
Awesome video man, it is inspiring!
Honest question, if skinning is purely cosmetic and not structural then why not just do a vinyl wrap in the carbon fiber style? They're extremely realistic looking nowadays and it's all cosmetic anyway.
great video, end product looks awesome
It really does, thank you!
You used Rust-Oleum 2x clear after this beautiful work?? Did you consider an activated 2 part clear instead? I've never had issues with plastic with that stuff.
How much carbon does that end up needing? Looking to do this and am not sure how many I'll need. Thanks for the great content man!
This ended up needing just over 1 lb! But Id get more to be safe and in case you wanted to coat it heavier than I did
awesome! will get a bit extra to be safe. really appreciate the response!!@@CashedOutCars
How well has the rustoleum clear held up in the sun?
If one were to paint 100% of the surface black as is common noted, Isnt the black paint the actual bond between the base surface and everything else. Is the paint bond to the base surface really that strong..What dont i understand?
I really needed this video, thank you!!!!
Happy to help!
I wanna skin my Fleshlight in forged carbon fiber!
Looks amazing does it add alot of weight?
Thank you! This added less than 5 lbs
Is it cheaper to carbon skin this way using vs buying the carbon fiber twill sheets?
How much product did you use? How much epoxy and how much carbon fiber?
Could you have "squeegeed" the voids with resin and a yellow body filler spreader?
That likely would have worked, it would require an additional sand to get it all smooth
Great video! Goes to show you that its possible to get a professional finish at home!
So true! Thanks for your comment!
To make what ? are you blind my friend and don't see small holes he have on the finish ? go to 16:56 if you missed it.
@@michalwisniewski4166 nothing some extra coats with sanding can’t fix. Looks professional to me.
@@ScottPC true but he did not do it. Thats the problem
@@michalwisniewski4166 so what? Still looks amazing. Why don’t you make a video showing how to do it?
very cool and it turned out sick!!!!
Thanks my friend!
Gonna do my whole animated Batmobile
try and use mipa p67s if you can get it in the US. its a clear primer you spray on but need a gun with 2.5 - 3mm nozzle. once you have sanded the carbon and put on 2 coats of resin and sanded that use the clear primer. its pretty thick and fills in any imperfections. do not thin the primer with anything. once primer is on its really easy to sand smooth ready for clear coat.
Does the carbon fiber add noticable strength or is it used for the look?
Its actually more strength full then just using bon-do on the whole thing .
How much flake you use for this?
In ounces or grams
A little over 1lb, I’d estimate 20oz or so
How much weight in carbon did you use?
This is not Forged Carbon, since there is no compression mold. This is just the carbon fiber equivalent of a chopper gun layup, minus the chopper gun.
How muck kilograms or LB did you ised for the whole rooftop
A little over 1 lb!
I decided to take a shot every time he says "I went ahead" I made it 7 minutes into the video, now I'm naked on my garage floor with no idea what in the hell I'm doing here.
Don't roll around in any carbon while you're down there!
Does this increase the strength of the part?
Exactly what I searched for
Gonna try it on some Motorcycle Parts 🤌
How many lbs do you think I should get to skin ZX10R fairings
Thanks man!
I appreciate the video but as someone who builds cars and uses forged carbon figure parts I thinks it’s important to notate that this part didn’t come out well from what I could see it were quiet a bit if spots in the finished product due to inconsistencies in the way you applied and sanded your layers of epoxy , probably should have been more forth coming on thag
I know it’s not true forges cf . But its a nice way to redo a part that might cost a lot of money if you are on a budget.
He's just a guy in his garage showing it can be done. He didn't say he's a professional. But did hear him say it turned out good enough for him tho.
Next time you should do more heavy coats of resin but wait till the Coat gets Reeealy Sticky before you put the Next Coat on it. So it will be thicker and you wont have to Sand so much, the surface will be flat
Good job on the video production.. Ya got most the idea but lots of miscues on the application and products. Rattle can paint under resins is not a great idea and chances of delam will be high. A base black tinted layer of resin will be much better. While the mas lv is a decent resin system it's heat deflection temp is very low for automotive uae and doesn't have good uv protection. Using a coated peel ply rather than a economy peel ply will pull off much easier.. You can wet out over the peel ply on any dry areas. Hope these tips help out on your next go
Thanks for the tips!
Can you forged carbon fiber skin a carbon fiber part? I’m looking for a forged carbon fiber wing for my Mazdaspeed but they only come in “regular” carbon fiber
Yes I don't see why not! Just make sure you prep the part well so the new skin bonds well
Can this processa be applied over a metal body part (ie, hood, etc)?
yes you just need to use abrasive sandpaper to start that way it holds in the long run
Pretty much any part. As long as you prep the surface properly.
What they said :)
I'm pretty sure you burned through that rattle can clear pretty easily just by sanding with P320, from there you are pretty much just refining/polishing the epoxy resin. I would recommend using a 2k clear coat sprayed with a $15 gun from HarborFreight if on a budget. Results will be 100% better than any rattle can clear.
How to avoid the pinholes? Forged carbon really is difficult to work with because the fiber will be all over the place. Leveling it is not easy
Great video and very dope idea! I love the carbon layup, it looks SICK! Good job Bro.
#RobbArmstrong
Thank you Robb, I appreciate it!
Looks fantastic. Maximum effort young man.
The name of this video should be HOW NOT TO CLEAR COAT
How much cost money to make project like this?
Easily done for under a couple hundred dollars, depending on resin choice and fiber used!
Well done looks cool but for my taste it does look a little rough, you could go over with more clear epoxy and fill in all those holes but you'll need to sand again etc...
I undersand it took you very long time and thats why you didn't went the extra effort to cover all the holes, but you were so close to make it look perfect .
the holes will gather dust and dirt inside and will stand out like a sore thumb
do you remember how much chopped fiber you used
how long does the whole process took mate ?
I did this over a week or two, working on it a little at a time. It's certainly not a quick process
I went ahead and left a comment. I also went ahead and left a like…
I appreciate you!
I went ahead and appreciated you as well.@@CashedOutCars ;)
From where I can buy carbon Fiber paper or paper
great job.
Thank you! Cheers!
Allot of voids on the finished part probably should have taken more time with the resin reapplications
I agree, one more coat and it would have been perfect
@@CashedOutCars also degassing your resin should help with some bubbles
How much carbon fibre in weight did you need to complete the whole top?
Just over 1 lb!
I wanna do hood and fenders
Why did you not just do a fload coat epoxy?
How much did/would this cost just in materials?
I'd estimate somewhere around $200