Your shop has so much of your care built into it. Tools that work much better with your attentions. Tools that become more then they were ever intended. Toys getting a new life. Great job!
Hello Michel. Using a lathe to make parts for itself is very enjoyable. Watching you turn rusty metal into beautiful parts is very enjoyable. But watching you wash your socks was hilarious 🤣 Thank you for sharing your work. See you next week. 👏👏👍😀
What a wonderful collection of industrial sculpture Rusti. Maybe the local museum could take them off your hands. For your turning between centres, you could reverse centre by installing a fixed centre in your new MT2 taper, and centre drilling a piece of stock in your chuck. 👍
Hi Michel ☺ great job on making the spindle from that old pin, some pins from earth moving machines are induction hardened, so can account for difficulty in machining them, but your finished spindle is a nice fit in the tailstock, so all's ok. I look forward to your next video,many thanks, stay safe mate, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Great video. I’ve been cruising on the Danube, Rhine and a couple of other rivers in Europe. Been keeping my eyes open for you, but no luck. Take care.
That Tailstock has suffered badly, its much happier now in Rustinox's workshop 😀. The previous artist (Allegedly), must still suck his, or her thumb. Excellent work Michel, thanks for sharing.
Great job, Michel. I will await the next part with interest. The thread for the screw is normally a left hand thread so that might be a challenge, as will it's mating thread in your new part. Can't wait to see how it comes out. Using the lathe to make parts for itself is a very satisfying notion. Lathes. Gotta love 'em. Mart.
One piece at a time, you're solving one problem at a time. This lathe has probably never gotten love like this before 😁 It's been interesting to see how you've made new parts so far, looking forward to more Rusti solutions.
As you were demonstrating the previous 'art work' on the tail stock, my thoughts went to the imagination of the previous owner(s). Actually, I was wondering if the skillset was similar to that of a politician working in the finance department.
I havent seen all the videos of this lathe you bought, but will soon. Hats off to you on this quite challenging project, but i can see you are enjoying the time and effort you are putting into that rebuild. I might have to strip the quille assembly of my mill machine as it somehow have resistance and i think its in the coiled spring. Not looking forward to that repair. Anyways, i enjoyed the video of remaking that spindle, keep them coming. Have a great day😃
Good repair work Michel, I'm surprised you only rebuild the tailstock sleeve - perhaps time to get into cast iron pouring and rebuilding the whole thing 😁
Brilliant work! If you check your local sources, you may be able to buy acme rod pre-threaded sections. I'm not competent enough to make them, so I buy sections once in a while. I also bought the tap, which is about $120, but you get a precise fit, and it saves a lot of time. However, because you are cutting square threads, its a really tough job turning that tap! It takes a lot of force and a lot of patience, even on brass it can be a challenge.
Hi Michel, Hope you are ok after the storms. The tailstock didnt look too bad when I first saw it. I thought it just needed new handles. Seems amazing that it worked at all when you see the details. Looks like the body casting is ok though. I wish you the best of luck with the lead screw. Have a great weekend
Got yourself a nice meaty project there Michel which will make a great difference. I don't know who the hack repairers are but they seem to visit every machine. Cheers
I just made one of these myself and it was quite enjoyable. I made mine out of 1144 and the original one was out of cast iron. ( I believe? It was missing all together) but you are an amazing inspiration my friend.
Great video Michel , and some very nice work. Thanks for the motivation to be a machinist and NOT an artiste. Even though I do have a long list of "artworks in my past. Cheers!
I found that sometimes drilling in too many steps causes drill bits to start wandering off. I usually just pre-drill anything above 8mm, and then pre-drill just the size of the blunt bit in the center of the drill which doesn't do any cutting. Drilling 6,8,10,... will usually not leave enough material for the drill to center itself - I find myself drilling 4,20 for example. Acme threaded rods and nuts can be purchased pretty cheap - if all else fails, it might be easiest to just buy the pieces, weld one into the quill and machine the other to become the spindle.
@@RustinoxOh, wow, I didn't expect that. I never got my little lathe to stall yet - and my drillbits go up to 30mm :o Well, I had to machine a left hand acme once... That was enough for me to know, I'll only thread acme if there's absolutely no alternative - internal threads all the more xD Good luck :)
It's not a problem I have either on my lathe, but then I have 29 rpm in bottom gear with 10hp behind it, it won't stall but will snap some pretty big drills off.
My second comment. I Really like this Multi Milling Machine, and the keyway you cut, turned out very outstanding. Talk with a Tool Supplier and try some different carbide inserts, what they suggest.
I like your use of scrap material. How often do you find you can't machine it? That is what put me off. A lot of work in this video. Good result and very satisfying I am sure.
If i were to speculate, i would guess that the elliptical lathe finish is mostly due to material deflection... Running between the centers can easily bow out the material due to pressure on both ends and lack of o.d. square reference support... I would definitely go with a follower rest on the carriage... That center bore also weakened the material somewhat, aiding the potential deflection alongside the centers holding... Not saying that running the centers was a bad idea, but generally, i would run a follower in such a scenario... This is funny, as i still recall Abom losing his shit over Monarch not cutting a perfect leadscrew that is 1/3 the diameter of this part, the length of this part(i think its around the ballpark) and without any follower support... Blamed the poor Monarch for his lack of foresight... Either way, a nice project, and im glad to see you finally using some proper larger pieces of stock... Also, the lapping of the quill is pretty much mandatory in scenarios like this one... Hell, with two lathes, i would consider line boring that tailstock on the other lathe and then just giving it a lick with a custom lap to mirror that bore... Also, for such work, its great to have a cyl. bore hone... They can help reveal any uneven wear patterns with just a quick run through the bore, as you see the evenly worn areas being honed shiny and the dips remain as they were... They are an amazing cylindricity and wear indicator, if not an outright material removal tool for some usecases... All the best and kind regards! Steuss
@@Rustinox Hmmm, its true that that is a thick part, so it very well could be just the lathe bed trouble... But keep in mind that cutting even slight depths with anything but the sharpest and pointiest cutter can easily push against the part, and we never really use the sharpest and pointiest tools, as that kind of tool turns into blunt tool in an instant in steel of any grade, let alone higher grade steels... I jumped at material deflection conclusion as you said its elliptical, which generally is contrary to the patterns resulting from bed wear... Dunno, cant say absolutely for sure, but i think you are right, it is likely mostly due to bed wear... All the best!
That's some really nice work, Michel. I particularly enjoyed the "clamping the tailstock to the carriage" fast retract, very trick. Looking at the exploded diagrams of the tailstock, the leadscrew does double duty as ejector. If you size it for ejecting morse 3, a floating ejector rod in front of the leadscrew would work for ejecting morse 2. Given that you're making a new ram, could you not have jury-rigged a tailstock and line bored the tailstock bore by a tenth of a millimeter or so to be absolutely cylindrical and level with the spindle? Seems cleaner than shimming the tailstock at the offset line, which I guess is your projected fix. Mind you, having the tailstock very slightly low is not a real problem, the tailstock will always jack up a bit under load.
@@Rustinox Sure, but it doesn't need to be a tailstock as such. A steady rest would work, for example. I'm actually trying to work out to do mine, it's very bell mouthed, but given that there's no chariot on my lathe it's all a bit tricky. There's plenty of ways to skin that particular cat, though, and I'm in no particular hurry.
Great video. Lots of work crammed into that video, Abom79 would have stretched it out to at least 3 episodes, lol. Do you have a surface plate, would have been nice to check out the surprise bow; no need to buy a brand new Abom sized Starrett one, they pretty cheap at auction.
Ambitious project, and all too easy to get wrong, so this is admirable. Good thing the body of the tailstock wasn't worn. Do you think the new quill was fatter in the centre just because even a hefty workpiece bends away from the tool a bit in the middle?
I understand that normal twist drills should not be used in stages, but just drill a small pilot to help the centre chisel part. The chatter is probably because it us only drilling at it’s outer edges. Good video however, thank you.
very nice work 😁👍👌 follow-up question from before.. my deckel fp1 can only travel about 240 mm in the Z travel?? does yours travel below the end of the z dovetail? I don't understand why, because it looks like it was meant to travel another 50mm or so ... or maybe I am totally wrong 🤔 thank you for all your nice videos, I would love to restore an old lathe as well 🙂
Thank you very much for your patience 😁👍 I really appreciate it. Mine stops flush with the dovetail. Great, now I know for sure. Could maybe be that mine is an older version. Thank you again Michel //Kenneth
Great project! I always thought tailstock leadscrews are too coarse a thread, you need to use too much handle force on big drills and depth precision is not great. If I did a project like this I would make a much finer thread, much better all round in my opinion. Of course, retracting is slower but if the tailstock has a quick release lever you can just retract the whole tailstock and still get all the benefits of a nice fine tailstock feed thread. 🤔
Hey there mate, first let me know that I seriously enjoy your videos, keep up having a nice time there! Technically, did you check the bore before hand? Could also need some care possibly BR, Thanos
Got this in just before bed time, now I can sleep better knowing there's a part 2 coming 🙂. Did a video for my creators over the Pond today. Our Texas Rangers calibrating their world series 1st ever win! Was awesome that I lived long enough to see it (@@)!
were i am we had a government railway workshop where one of my dad mates worked, in that workshop they had what they referred to as newspaper feed rates you seem to have the same issue
Hey Rusti, YOU know I have sent 😅 comments. If I could use real words, I'd get probably get knocked off ytube. What you just described about this Tail drill unit is a real piece of (******). You certainly have a lot of work, awaits you to get it usable. 🤔🙄
Your shop has so much of your care built into it.
Tools that work much better with your attentions. Tools that become more then they were ever intended. Toys getting a new life.
Great job!
Thanks. That's a bit the idea :)
Hello Michel. Using a lathe to make parts for itself is very enjoyable. Watching you turn rusty metal into beautiful parts is very enjoyable. But watching you wash your socks was hilarious 🤣 Thank you for sharing your work. See you next week. 👏👏👍😀
Thanks Andrew.
Nice workmanship you are doing on that repair Michel.
Thanks Mark.
@@Rustinox I am borrowing those terribly welded parts by reference in todays video :)
@@RotarySMP Nice, go for it.
Hello Rusti, thanks for rescuing that nice machine…surely it didn’t deserve such abuse.
Thanks Dudley.
Well done mate. And your sense of humour never gets old.
Thanks.
Nice work! Looking forward to seeing the rest 👍 🇬🇧
Thanks. More to come.
"Use a piece of......" I believe the technical term is Scraptonium 😁🙃😁
Have a nice weekend Michel
Cheers
Could well be. Thanks.
Haha! Thank you Michel, you always make me laugh. Hadn't realised that the tailstock was quite so much of an amazing a piece of sculpture!
Well it is. And a lot of work to fix it.
Wonderful sarcastic, introduction to the previous "artwork". 😀
Michel, Nice work getting the spindle made. Looking forward to next week.
Thanks Allen.
What a wonderful collection of industrial sculpture Rusti. Maybe the local museum could take them off your hands. For your turning between centres, you could reverse centre by installing a fixed centre in your new MT2 taper, and centre drilling a piece of stock in your chuck. 👍
I'm not sure the local museum is interested :)
It just keeps getting better every episode Michel. Cheers
Thanks. Glad you think so :)
I thoroughly enjoy your work Michel.
Your sense of humor is a big bonus.
Thanks.
Hi Michel. I must say that I admire your "go for it" attitude. You do well 💪👍 cheers from Denmark
Thanks Henrik. Go for it.
This is the machinests way of turning a sows ear into a silk purse, turning rubbish into finely honed useful parts. Fantastic stuff again Michel.
Lol. Thanks.
Hi Michel ☺ great job on making the spindle from that old pin, some pins from earth moving machines are induction hardened, so can account for difficulty in machining them, but your finished spindle is a nice fit in the tailstock, so all's ok. I look forward to your next video,many thanks, stay safe mate, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Thanks Stuart.
Holy Cow ! I think I heard Bubba gasping at that original repair job. 😕
The quill build is looking nice 👍👍in good hands now !
Thanks Rusty....Enjoyed
Thanks Dean. I will make it work. For sure.
Great machining as usual Michel. I will be back for the next part. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks Harold.
Nice work Rusti.
Thanks for sharing the process.
Have a great day.
Thanks. My pleasure.
I thoroughly enjoy your videos. Keep up the great work.
Thanks. That's the plan.
great michel👍👍👍👍👍👍😉😉
regards
kev(UK)
Thanks Kev.
A precision job , very well done.
Thanks.
Those locking handles were really special...🤪
Absolutely. But I think I will replace them :)
Very amusing & serious video Michel. That lathe is going to be a beauty when finished.
Steve.
Thanks. I sure hope so.
Nice work looking forward to the next episode thanks
Thanks. Stay tuned.
Very nice job on the spindle, nice fit.
Thanks Randy.
Great video. I’ve been cruising on the Danube, Rhine and a couple of other rivers in Europe. Been keeping my eyes open for you, but no luck. Take care.
You can stop looking. I'm full time at home now.
Excellent work on the tailstock quill Michel. Looking forward to seeing how you tackle the lead screw. I'm sure you'll make it work. Cheers Nobby
Thanks Nobby.
Well done mate good video all the best trevor
Thanks Trevor.
That Tailstock has suffered badly, its much happier now in Rustinox's workshop 😀.
The previous artist (Allegedly), must still suck his, or her thumb.
Excellent work Michel, thanks for sharing.
I can only hope it's happier in my workshop :)
Looking good Rusty! 👍
Thanks Tom.
Great job, Michel. I will await the next part with interest. The thread for the screw is normally a left hand thread so that might be a challenge, as will it's mating thread in your new part. Can't wait to see how it comes out. Using the lathe to make parts for itself is a very satisfying notion. Lathes. Gotta love 'em. Mart.
Thanks Mart.
One piece at a time, you're solving one problem at a time. This lathe has probably never gotten love like this before 😁 It's been interesting to see how you've made new parts so far, looking forward to more Rusti solutions.
Step by step. That's the idea.
FIRST POST AGAIN! Have a wonderful day, Love this channel. I cant wait to see your acme thread project, i have a few to make myself
Thanks.
Nicely done, Michel. I enjoy doing this kind of restoration, bringing old or abused tools back to life.
It's indeed very satisfying.
Nice work Michel, it will work much better!
Well, I sure hope so.
Looks good with the fit you got on it
I'm happy with the result.
Great machine work Michel. Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean.
This work is well done, Michael please don't last long to make the next video please.
One video a week is the max I can do.
Since brass is so expensive, I think I'll also give this gold material a try.
Let's hope it works :)
As you were demonstrating the previous 'art work' on the tail stock, my thoughts went to the imagination of the previous owner(s).
Actually, I was wondering if the skillset was similar to that of a politician working in the finance department.
Lol, could well be :)
Nice work! Look forward to seeing how you make the lead screw.
Thanks Mick. Stay tuned.
Well done, Rusty 👍😁👍. The previous owner/s sure did a number on that thing 🤣.
Thanks Chris. For sure.
I havent seen all the videos of this lathe you bought, but will soon. Hats off to you on this quite challenging project, but i can see you are enjoying the time and effort you are putting into that rebuild. I might have to strip the quille assembly of my mill machine as it somehow have resistance and i think its in the coiled spring. Not looking forward to that repair. Anyways, i enjoyed the video of remaking that spindle, keep them coming. Have a great day😃
Thanks. No challenge, no fun :)
I'm thinking that lathe was previously owned by a blind carpenter! I reckon you'll have it ship shape in no time.
Well, for sure not a mecanic...
A great project with a very neat solution Good onya
Thanks.
Nice vid. Great job. And very interesting. Pleasure to watch, Michele !
Thanks.
Good repair work Michel, I'm surprised you only rebuild the tailstock sleeve - perhaps time to get into cast iron pouring and rebuilding the whole thing 😁
Hell no!. The body is in more or less good condition.
Brilliant work!
If you check your local sources, you may be able to buy acme rod pre-threaded sections.
I'm not competent enough to make them, so I buy sections once in a while. I also bought the tap, which is about $120, but you get a precise fit, and it saves a lot of time. However, because you are cutting square threads, its a really tough job turning that tap! It takes a lot of force and a lot of patience, even on brass it can be a challenge.
Home made is fun to do. That's why I make myself.
Hi Michel, Hope you are ok after the storms.
The tailstock didnt look too bad when I first saw it. I thought it just needed new handles. Seems amazing that it worked at all when you see the details.
Looks like the body casting is ok though.
I wish you the best of luck with the lead screw.
Have a great weekend
No problems over here with the storm. Thanks David.
Got yourself a nice meaty project there Michel which will make a great difference. I don't know who the hack repairers are but they seem to visit every machine. Cheers
Maybe it's a new trend. I don't know.
I just made one of these myself and it was quite enjoyable. I made mine out of 1144 and the original one was out of cast iron. ( I believe? It was missing all together) but you are an amazing inspiration my friend.
Thanks. And it's fun to do.
Great video Michel , and some very nice work. Thanks for the motivation to be a machinist and NOT an artiste. Even though I do have a long list of "artworks in my past. Cheers!
I think we all have. Let's do better next time.
Great work so far Rustinox 👍...Tony
Thanks Tony.
I found that sometimes drilling in too many steps causes drill bits to start wandering off. I usually just pre-drill anything above 8mm, and then pre-drill just the size of the blunt bit in the center of the drill which doesn't do any cutting. Drilling 6,8,10,... will usually not leave enough material for the drill to center itself - I find myself drilling 4,20 for example.
Acme threaded rods and nuts can be purchased pretty cheap - if all else fails, it might be easiest to just buy the pieces, weld one into the quill and machine the other to become the spindle.
If I want to drill full size without predrilling, my little lathe will stall.
I know acme rods are cheap, but it's more fun to make myself.
@@RustinoxOh, wow, I didn't expect that.
I never got my little lathe to stall yet - and my drillbits go up to 30mm :o
Well, I had to machine a left hand acme once... That was enough for me to know, I'll only thread acme if there's absolutely no alternative - internal threads all the more xD
Good luck :)
It's not a problem I have either on my lathe, but then I have 29 rpm in bottom gear with 10hp behind it, it won't stall but will snap some pretty big drills off.
My second comment. I Really like this Multi Milling Machine, and the keyway you cut, turned out very outstanding. Talk with a Tool Supplier and try some different carbide inserts, what they suggest.
That's an idea.
i like what you do keep up the good work take care
Thanks. That's the plan.
Haha, the sarcasm is so thick you can cut it with a knife - and I LOVE IT :)
Lol. Thanks.
Excellent job
Thanks.
very nice work, Thank You
Thanks.
Artwork, that’s my phrase for November now 😂
Lol.
I like your use of scrap material. How often do you find you can't machine it? That is what put me off. A lot of work in this video. Good result and very satisfying I am sure.
Well, I don't think I ever had big problems with scrap metal. And even if it happened, I'll just use another piece.
If i were to speculate, i would guess that the elliptical lathe finish is mostly due to material deflection... Running between the centers can easily bow out the material due to pressure on both ends and lack of o.d. square reference support... I would definitely go with a follower rest on the carriage... That center bore also weakened the material somewhat, aiding the potential deflection alongside the centers holding...
Not saying that running the centers was a bad idea, but generally, i would run a follower in such a scenario...
This is funny, as i still recall Abom losing his shit over Monarch not cutting a perfect leadscrew that is 1/3 the diameter of this part, the length of this part(i think its around the ballpark) and without any follower support... Blamed the poor Monarch for his lack of foresight...
Either way, a nice project, and im glad to see you finally using some proper larger pieces of stock... Also, the lapping of the quill is pretty much mandatory in scenarios like this one... Hell, with two lathes, i would consider line boring that tailstock on the other lathe and then just giving it a lick with a custom lap to mirror that bore...
Also, for such work, its great to have a cyl. bore hone... They can help reveal any uneven wear patterns with just a quick run through the bore, as you see the evenly worn areas being honed shiny and the dips remain as they were... They are an amazing cylindricity and wear indicator, if not an outright material removal tool for some usecases...
All the best and kind regards!
Steuss
The part has a diameter of 48mm. That doesn't bent with a 0.2mm cut.
I think it comes from the wear in the lathe bed.
@@Rustinox
Hmmm, its true that that is a thick part, so it very well could be just the lathe bed trouble... But keep in mind that cutting even slight depths with anything but the sharpest and pointiest cutter can easily push against the part, and we never really use the sharpest and pointiest tools, as that kind of tool turns into blunt tool in an instant in steel of any grade, let alone higher grade steels...
I jumped at material deflection conclusion as you said its elliptical, which generally is contrary to the patterns resulting from bed wear... Dunno, cant say absolutely for sure, but i think you are right, it is likely mostly due to bed wear...
All the best!
That's some really nice work, Michel. I particularly enjoyed the "clamping the tailstock to the carriage" fast retract, very trick.
Looking at the exploded diagrams of the tailstock, the leadscrew does double duty as ejector. If you size it for ejecting morse 3, a floating ejector rod in front of the leadscrew would work for ejecting morse 2.
Given that you're making a new ram, could you not have jury-rigged a tailstock and line bored the tailstock bore by a tenth of a millimeter or so to be absolutely cylindrical and level with the spindle? Seems cleaner than shimming the tailstock at the offset line, which I guess is your projected fix. Mind you, having the tailstock very slightly low is not a real problem, the tailstock will always jack up a bit under load.
To line bore you need tail support... :)
@@Rustinox Sure, but it doesn't need to be a tailstock as such. A steady rest would work, for example. I'm actually trying to work out to do mine, it's very bell mouthed, but given that there's no chariot on my lathe it's all a bit tricky. There's plenty of ways to skin that particular cat, though, and I'm in no particular hurry.
Good show !!
Thanks.
Great video. Lots of work crammed into that video, Abom79 would have stretched it out to at least 3 episodes, lol. Do you have a surface plate, would have been nice to check out the surprise bow; no need to buy a brand new Abom sized Starrett one, they pretty cheap at auction.
Thanks. For most of the work I do, I don't really need a surface plate. I can live without.
Yes... I've got a lot of "I don't know" in my materials store too.
The best there is :)
Ambitious project, and all too easy to get wrong, so this is admirable. Good thing the body of the tailstock wasn't worn. Do you think the new quill was fatter in the centre just because even a hefty workpiece bends away from the tool a bit in the middle?
I think it comes from the wear in the lathe bed.
I understand that normal twist drills should not be used in stages, but just drill a small pilot to help the centre chisel part. The chatter is probably because it us only drilling at it’s outer edges.
Good video however, thank you.
Indeed, but if I drill full size without predrilling, the lathe will stall.
@@Rustinox I see, next project…. Bigger motor.👍
very nice work 😁👍👌
follow-up question from before..
my deckel fp1 can only travel about 240 mm in the Z travel??
does yours travel below the end of the z dovetail?
I don't understand why, because it looks like it was meant to travel another 50mm or so ... or maybe I am totally wrong 🤔
thank you for all your nice videos, I would love to restore an old lathe as well 🙂
When the slide is completely down, it's about 25mm lower than the end of the dove tail.
Thank you very much for your patience 😁👍 I really appreciate it.
Mine stops flush with the dovetail. Great, now I know for sure. Could maybe be that mine is an older version. Thank you again Michel
//Kenneth
Thanks. Again.....
My pleasure.
While your lathe is busy, perhaps you could do your laundry ... on your SHAPER!
Good idea.
Great project!
I always thought tailstock leadscrews are too coarse a thread, you need to use too much handle force on big drills and depth precision is not great.
If I did a project like this I would make a much finer thread, much better all round in my opinion. Of course, retracting is slower but if the tailstock has a quick release lever you can just retract the whole tailstock and still get all the benefits of a nice fine tailstock feed thread. 🤔
I will make it with a pitch of 2mm. I think that will work.
@@Rustinox Great choice!
I think that is what I would have picked for that size tailstock. 👍
Отличная работа!
Thanks.
Hey there mate, first let me know that I seriously enjoy your videos, keep up having a nice time there!
Technically, did you check the bore before hand? Could also need some care possibly
BR,
Thanos
Thanks Thanos. Indeed, I did.
Got this in just before bed time, now I can sleep better knowing there's a part 2 coming 🙂. Did a video for my creators over the Pond today. Our Texas Rangers calibrating their world series 1st ever win! Was awesome that I lived long enough to see it (@@)!
Thanks Bear. All the best.
He he. You’re a legend
I hope not :)
Beautiful video! I’m pretty sure those pieces were made by a total novice - who knows, they may be a master by now!
It was not a professional, for sure.
Michel how can I reeds you? I have some quistions about the planer oiling system, I have the same one. Regards
Mail me at; rustinox@outlook.com
Acme, left hand thread???
Best wishes all.
Indeed, left.
@@Rustinox ua-cam.com/video/1c_odr4PoNM/v-deo.html Kieth Rucker gives a demo, but why ACME tread? For strength?
Make a shear tool for the lathe.
I have. And it works great.
👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks Joel.
were i am we had a government railway workshop where one of my dad mates worked, in that workshop they had what they referred to as newspaper feed rates you seem to have the same issue
Hey Rusti, YOU know I have sent 😅 comments. If I could use real words, I'd get probably get knocked off ytube. What you just described about this Tail drill unit is a real piece of (******). You certainly have a lot of work, awaits you to get it usable. 🤔🙄
A lot of work indeed. But no problem, it's a project.
Nice job...A+...
Thanks.
Hangin right with ya buddy! Thanks. BTW, when you said Art, I thought you were meaning "earthly" Art.😁
Don't know what to call it, but it's special. That's for sure.