The Right Way To Insulate: Attics and Cathedral Ceilings with Batts
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- Опубліковано 18 кві 2011
- Visit www.idi-insulation.com/ for all your insulation information. The Right Way To Insulate Attics and Cathedral Ceilings with Batts, using Certain Teed fiberglass insulation. This video covers how ceilings and attics require higher R values because of the range of temperatures they are exposed to and a description of the Batts and their instillation
We do not do this any more in 2023 and several years before this date. WE do have the air gap, at least 2 inches and with a ridge vent. Rigid foam is now used, or closed cell foam for under the 2 inch air gap and ridge vent. The walls get a thin layer of closed cell, blown in or fit with rigid foam, then a batt, mineral wool is now available and easy to work with as it is not itchy like the pink stuff. Plus mineral wool keeps its R value if it gets accidently wet and is difficult to burn. We have some a long way since this video was put together....Building Science stuff. Awesome. Long live our buildings...Steve Baczek architect
Wow you sounds like you know your stuff. Have you ever used that prodex total product or ever heard of it. I'm trying to research on the product but can't find many videos other than from the manufacturer.
haven't even made it 5 seconds in and I'm already liking it. That slap bass intro has my convinced I'm in the right place.
You may be able to remove the fascia boards and any bird blocks and stuff bats from the bottom up using a bat that is slightly smaller then the cavity. Different brands of bat insulation are different heights. I have seen R-19 range from about 4" to 6 1/4", so make sure what you use is about an inch less tall. Also, Kraft faced tends to snag worse on shiners so I would use Unfaces bats.
After watching that video, i would have to agree with you there!
My house is T&G. It has 9 1/2" BCI joists above the T&G and sheathing above that. It is possible it is like you suggest but if the home is less than 20-25 years old, it may be more like mine but perhaps with 2x8 or 2x10 dimensional lumber. Good to have info from both perspectives. :)
This was the best demonstration I've seen all night. I wish you had a video on weather stripping doors.
Owens-Corning has R-15 available that is the same 3.5 inches thick. They also make R-21 which is a better way to insulate 2x6 framed homes. R-19 has always been used for 2x6 walls, but it's 6.25 inches thick, which means you'll have to compress it when drywall is installed. R-21 is 5.5 inches thick which not only gives you a larger R value, it also won't be pushing against your drywall.
And rockwool makes a R23 thats 5.5" for walls, no special clothing needed and FIRE PROFF can get wet and DRY it OUT with out lost and needing to redo pink or white stuff. Give me fire safety easy sell on fire safety. 🔥
Good hustle guys
I like the way they use staples to avoid substantial contact by maintaining air channels
He is using a bat smaller in height than the cavity to allow for ventilation. so he isn't losing any R-value. But to answer your question, the R-value of fiberglass bats is R-3.0 per inch, fiberglass loose fill is R-2.8 per inch, and cellulose is R-3.6 to 3.8 per inch. In a 2x4 wall or 2x6, however, you should staple to the face, not the inside.
Thanks.
I am trying to insulate the roof on a detached garage that has only 3 sets of 3 soffit holes per roof side. space is 24 inches wide and can only fit 3.5" insulation. Will insulating the roof compromise any ventilation when there are only the soffit holes for ventilation (no ridge vent gap)? I plan and keeping the soffit holes uncovered.
Thank you for this info
We are happy to provide!
Those baffles in the first roof don't extend down to the soffit vents. If you tuck the ends of the batts in how can you be sure the vents are (1) still exposed to the baffles and (2) that air won't be drawn through the insulation instead? Conversely if you leave the batts retracted several inches how much of the roof edge is uninsulated?
I recently had a single sloped 20x30 workshop built. The roof has 2x12 joists spaced about every 12 inches. There are no vents installed in the soffits of the upper portion, nor the lower portion of the single sloped roof. The workshop is in central Texas, where it gets pretty hot in the summer (~107 degrees) and cool in the winter (~ 35 degrees). Are vents needed on a single sloped roof and what should be used for insulation? Should the insulation thickness/height take up the entire thickness/height of the 2x12, or should there be an air gap?
"Check with your supervisor."
😂
I love his pants. Lol. Seriously though I like this film. Really helpful.
before doing anything make sure your attic is properly sealed such as all holes and wall to ceiling ,etc ,where heat can possibly escape , from interior of home to attic , then put down insulation .
Hammer Tacker! (find it with the staplers at home depot or hardware store).
I've been using a regular Arrow stapler; the hammer stapler looks like it would be easier to use. Thanks for posting what it's called.
I still call it a bam bam stick.
@txmarman38 Not this type of batt. Some types use no staples at all, they are 1/2-or so- oversized and are made to fit tight and still have proper R. Those types always use poly as a vapobar.
You are right in pointing out to always check instructions. Certainteed (Menard's sells it) as far as what I've bought is supposed to be installed as shown.
Ecobatt makes a good one without a kraft face and needs no wire to keep in place. It's so soft when it's new.
I agree, ecobatt is the only fiberglass product i would use. Rockwool is superior in every way, though. Its worth it. In my opinion
you can drill 2" holes in each bay, at or near the ridge, and blow cellulose in, then use wood plugs to fill the holes or get creative with some trim or a false beam. This wouldn't allow proper ventilation, however, making the roof hot and shortening the life of your roofing. Extreme heat bakes the asphalt shingles and metal roofs will expand and contract more making leaks more likely around screws and or joints. Removing the roofing(if metal) would be the easiest way to insulate properly.
Thank you for the explanation regarding why air circulation in the roof/attic is important for the type of roof you have. I didn't understand the *necessity* for allowing air to circulate for the roof deck, but now I know why. Great comment, sir!
Do I put insulation over the vent cover that faces towards the outside of the house. Our current insulation had been half removed from the previous owners and what is left looks like it covered the vent. I don't know if I should cover it or leave open for circulation
Leave open
Sounds great, but the illustration is only for a flat portion of a roof. What about a more complex roof shape with corners, or "hips"? The rafters at the corner (the hip-jack rafters) nail into the main hip rafter before it reaches the top of the roof. If something is put over the top of those rafters, there is no way for the air to flow from the soffit to the ridge vent. Do you just forget about soffit ventilation for those portions of the roof? If so, wouldn't those portions of the roof be prone to overheating in the summer or ice-damming in the winter, as there is no air flow through those sections of the roof?
I want to insulate to gable ends in the attic with Rockwool R-22 insulation. There are no vertical studs except the flat studs of the roof truss. also the are a lot of framing & siding nails which can't be cut to put new 2X6 studs. I live in Wilmington, NC & my attic get get up to around 120 degrees in the summer time & about 30 degrees in the winter. My question is: can I use a little construction adhesive to help hold the insulation in place?
Hi Donald,
For fibrous insulation to work properly it should touch all six sides. That would mean once you install the mineral wool in place, the best thing you can do is cover it with T-Ply, plywood, or some sort of backing. This will hold it in place and can be taped and air-sealed for even greater performance. Let us know if you have any other questions, thanks!
I have 2x6 ceilings in my bonus room above garage. The code in my county is R30 for the ceiling. what insulation should I use?
Add r11 if on top
Use rockwool, that's the best!!
single story garage, 24x32, plan to put in simple wall mounted gas heater after I put up the sheetrock, it has soffit and ridge vents, I insulated the walls with batts, I insulated the garage door, I want to leave the ceiling open for storing wood for home projects, I want to insulate the roof, I was going to use foam board type insulation and install it across the ceiling joists so there would be airflow between the soffet/ridge vents. I am not putting drywall over my head, just on the walls. I read a warning that said if you use foam over your head that you should always cover it with drywall or wood panels. If there is a fire it could actually drip and cause additional damage. Now I am looking at batts and the foam vents but since I am not covering the roof insulations, should I use batts with or without the paper backing. I am not living out there just changing oil and building honey do projects.
Big John - That's my current situation. What did you end up doing?
@@mikeca98 Still no overhead insulation. I got a small bullet heater and used propane. I had three bottles of propane, from a grill that I tossed, that were still full. Hooked the heater up, raised the door a little, set out a box fan for circulation. This is north Alabama and it rarely gets to the 20s so the cheap bullet heater is fine. I do move my paints and stains to the attached garage in the winter to prevent any damage from the cold. I still plan on insulating the garage roof but it has moved way down on my priority list. My plan is to just use the foam vents (?) for air flow and then insulation batts. just seems easier. Not concerned with sheet rock on the ceiling. It is a garage and not a museum.
+Sd D hammer tacker
+Joe Fossett Yes you need airflow to the ridge vents.
God video med det er da smarterer at blæse isoleringen ind i en lukket konstruktion med papirisolering, glasuld eller træfiber isolering ,, loftisolering
Thanks for the video. It has helped me understand more.
Meanwhile, my structure is an 8x12 properly shingled wood-roof shed in Toronto Canada. I added 4" pink batts and then a poly-vapour barrier. It's been fine all winter. But now in mid-April, after a couple of sunny days, some of the roof panels began to sweat.
I have Soffits on the outside corners only (2' x 8' in each corner, not all the way across, which I could change if needed) and opposing 8"x6" vents in the two sidewalls, but there is no Ridge vent.
In your opinion is it worth installing baffles above my 4" batts? Will this solve the condensation problem even with no Ridge Vents. If not, can you make any suggestions or even point me to a URL for more assistance?
Cheers,
Alan
Is the space conditioned(heated and cooled)? Is it dry walled under the insulation. Are the walls insulated. You need soffit vents the whole length. 1sq ft per 300sq ft of attic space is a bare mimmum. I'd add a ridge vent. If the insulation is faced, but you aren't drywalling or heating the space, I'd rip down that poly. You want an air barrier, not a moisture barrier. The moisture barrier should be tyvek under the wall shingles, and ice damn for 36" then tar paper on the roof under the shingles.
Either add baffles or pull back the insulation two inches from the soffit ends. Running baffles all the way to the ridge vent and caulking their seams is new good practice.
Yet, this is all hard advice to give without seeing your structure.
+Jay Liptak Thank-you for taking the time to respond. Hopefully, it will help anyone else who had a similar experience. As you pointed out, I had created a moisture reservoir in place of an air barrier. It just took 8 months of Canadian weather to make it noticeable.
So, back in the summer, I expanded my soffits to full length and added baffles. This improved air-flow and negated a need for ridge vents. Fortunately I was able to re-use all the original supplies so it cost me the price of three soffit panels (and about 25 rework hours).
My lesson learned here is don't cut corners. I mean literally, I cut soffits for the corners only, thinking it would provide adequate airflow and save me about 10 hrs. But it became pretty clear to me when the sweating batts began to appear 2 common rafters in, that only the corners were breathing adequately.
Anyway, for my first attempt at building a shed, it worked out pretty well in the end. I'd post a few photos, but, there isn't an option. Besides, I seem to be among professionals here, so you already know what its like.
Good luck to everyone.
ypclfmh
Is the roof ridge ventilated ?
@@Paulie_O The roof ridge was not ventilated. At 12ft, I was advised it was an unnecessary expense. Anyway, 5 years in since i fixed the soffits with no issues with sweating since. So it works. I love my shed. It's been an amazing space to have. Like an extra room in the house, but one that my wife never complains about :-)
What if my garage doesn't have eave vents? I'm about to insulate the ceiling of the garage and idk if I need to place those baffles mentioned in the video at 1:17
Or should I just go ahead and start insulating the ceiling?
Hi Gomez,
Thank you for reaching out to us! Our first question would be to ask why you are insulating the roof deck instead of the flat or the ceiling plane? Please feel free to give us a call to discuss some solutions at 888-843-1318. Thank you!
@@IDIDistributors to keep access to junk stored above im assuming. I have the same question as the original poster.
I have an outdoor porch with a knee wall. So I want to convert to sunroom. What is the best R value to use and the right thickness? I plan on covering the inside on top of the insulation with bead board. Thanks
Just to be clear, you have or are going to create an all season porch or are you going to open it up like a sunroom and turn this area into conditioned space?
Ken Allison I have an all season porch that is 3 sides screened in. The screen goes from top to knee wall. Currently I haven’t but the ceiling on or any bead boards to put in the wall. I guess I was wondering if I converted this porch to a conditioned sun room, I need insulation to put in the ceiling and walls right? So I was wondering what r-value and type of insulation to use.
Gregvancom and Matt Risinger are the most annoying folks in the UA-cam construction field
Yes, air sealing is a good thing these days! Power will continue to rise. Pay a little now or a lot over time!
So true! It's like playing a game called "Keep My Money!"
I'm confused. I watched another videos saying that in warm climate, attics should be insulated with the vapour barrier up, because heat comes from above and paper should be set towards the hottest surface. It was explained that if vapour barrier is wrongly installed, mold shows up in time. In this video it's said paper down towards attic space. In the ones watched before, they say paper up towards roof. Which way is the correct way? I live in a hot climate, most of the year.
Have you found out what to do yet?
@@a.s.3601 No. My questions were ignored. I finally decided to go with rockwool insulation. More expensive, but no vapour barrier up or down and more effective, they say. Problem solved! LOL
@@stevendow2606 problem not solved. The "Vapor barrier " goes towards the living space as/per manufacturers installation guide.
Facing and vapor barriers face towards the climate controlled space as that’s where the swing in moisture will occur, i.e. condensation from large temp swings. The video you saw and I did not, may have been speaking of “radiant barriers” a foil on foam. That is not facing or moisture barrier-it is a radiant barrier. It is installed with the radiant barrier facing the extreme temperatures, so typically faced up towards a roof, outwards towards the exterior, or down into a crawl space. You are most likely confusing the terms facing/moisture barrier with radiant barrier and they’re not interchangeable terms.
No one should be insulating like this anymore. You’re just asking for trouble. Trust me, my house was done this way in the late 90s and it condenses and loses heat like crazy. Rafters nowadays really should be spray foamed.
ive got a section of roof that is about 13x30 feet, no soffits on the low side and terminates at a vertical wall at the top. there is no venting and it is a cathedral ceiling. can i insulate with batting or should i use spray in foam.
Papa Bear o
closed cell foam is the safest way to go on an unventilated roof.
6:10
What's a side wall?
Does anyone know how to reinsulate a cathedral ceiling? We have tongue and groove boards in the ceiling and note that we are losing heat on the roof. Other than tear off the entire roof and start over are there any suggestions? There are no trusses or attic.
A good insulator could remove certain shingles, drill a few rows of holes and dense pack the cavities. Seal the holes and put new shingles on those spots
#sinnisjInsulator. Best product in my opinion is spray foam. Batts is old school but cheaper.
Great concept and a worry free solution for the rest of your life but it creates air pollution which leads to health issues especially kids
What if you don't have soffit vents or a ridge vent
Did u figure out?
how would we properly insulate a vaulted ceiling with 2x8 trusses
I would use a poly vent and a r21 batt.
Reason he's face stapling cathedral ceiling (insulating 38 yrs ) ????
What about thermal bridging?
Tecnolover2642, thank you for your question on thermal bridging. For this one, let’s start with the fact that thermal bridging cannot be addressed by insulation placed between the framing. To solve the thermal bridging issue, we need to have a continuous layer of insulation on either the inside, or the outside of the framing. Certainly the optimal place would be the outside, but continuous insulation (CI) does work when used on the inside. If interested, you can find many designs or construction details for CI assemblies on buildingscience.com. If you have one you would like to discuss, please give us a call and we will gladly help any way we can.
what is the tool the guy using to fix the rockwool on it's place kinda a hammer but what ?
Hammer stapler, you can usually find them near the staples in most hardware stores.
Which way does the paper face and why?
Paper to the heated area always
What is that says on the paper of the insulation? I typically see a warning from manufacturers not to leave the paper exposed. Is that ok to do with your product?
Ide imagine its because it leaves it open to rips, liquid water and deteriation and also possible fire hazards.
I am insulating a shed with cathedral ceilings. do i run the baffles up to the ridge vent ot leave that exposed
Hello! The goal is to make sure that you have 2 inches of clear-free area for air to sweep across the roof deck to prevent ice damning. If you don't run your baffles all the way up, you have to make sure the fiberglass does not block the airflow in that area. This allows air to sweep the roof deck, and keep it nice and cold. If you have any more questions, feel free to call us at 952-279-6400 and we can connect you with one of our techs. Thanks!
Foam Insulation on vaults covered in metal roof...learned the hard way, don't use batts on metal roofs or it will condensate and everything will be wet.
Did you use baffling for ventilation?
@@ARKenMan It is a vault...there is no ventilation. No wasted attic space either.
@@cbriangilbert1978 "vault...there is no ventilation" ??? Vault like at 6:29 where it shows baffling installed in a vaulted joist. Hopefully you don't learn another hard way. Someone else said to be sure to vent metal roofs in these comments because the range of heating and expanding loosens fasteners and shortens life.
... спочатку кахель на стіни, а потім штробимо,Щоб труби покласти. Так панове і у Вас з теплоізоляцією стелі та даху.
You missed the plastic wraps before you put insulation for support
Chris, Thank you so much for your comment on the video we uploaded. It sounds as though your comment has to do with having, or not having a vapor barrier on the cathedral assembly. If this this in not what you are referencing, please let us know. If the vapor retarder is what you mean by plastic wrap, then that would depend on the climate being installed. In the south we would not want one on the inside of the assembly because it would trap moisture behind it. In the north we certainly would want a vapor retarder over the fiberglass, but in the middle climate zones it might be better to opt for one of the newer intelligent membranes that control vapor flow based on temperatures in the wall. For more information on this, please give us a call or contact your local branch. We look forward to helping any way we can.
He's stapling the bats into an open ceiling joist. He isn't losing anything as the bats are not being smashed. It is not as though he is mashing then into a wall space.
I found my sense of humor in my attic, the poor thing was dead :(
dads
What are bats? What is faced insulation? I will watch it again
Faced insulation is the paper on one or both sides of the insulation. Bats are the insulation pieces.
That thing would show many leaks and thermal breaks on an infrared camera smh
This is the second ideo i’ve seen by manufacturer/distributor showing poor n incorrect installation. SMH!
😎✌️
Paper backing is supposed to be stappled to the end of the 2X, not the sides. That would not pass code.
check my reply to Bert M
Doesn't the paper go out to the plywood
This is incredibly outdated at best. The technique for installing the fiberglass batts and soffit ventilation baffles is solid, but to not even address the need for air sealing the attic floor, even in 2012, is hard to believe. Air sealing your attic before insulating it is some of the best money a homeowner can ever spend in terms of return on investment. Even after it has already been insulated it can still be air sealed, which we do all the time. Not only does air sealing the attic floor improve interior air quality, reduce energy bills, and improve comfort, but it also dramatically reduces the likelihood of developing a mold problem in your attic.
Right way, My ass. These guys dont shit about physics in construction
You defenetly get mold
Omg. Why is dude putting 5 staples on each side of the batt lmao 😂 that’s a little extra bud. You need two on each side three tops. Hell if sheet rock is being put up the next day you don’t need staples at all.
Wrong
"if stilts are allowed in your area...check with your momma.
No roof vent in the cathedral ceilings. Time to delete this video, it's 1800's tech.
Your cathedral ceilings will mold with 16" baffles in a 24" vent bay. Use the 23.5" baffles in 24" rafter bays. There black here and 16" baffles are tan like what you used. Crew🫣 molds 👎 homeowners 😫 inspector 🙄