That was an epic shift you put in there, loved seeing the benchwork, took me back to my apprentice days in the RAF. Bit of a fiddle getting the internals in, but you did it. The weather down here has stopped me getting on stripping the brakes down, no rush though. Keep them coming.
Hi Ken, I had to bite the bullet as the weather is set to go down hill again for the rest of the week, I'll see if I've any shed jobs that I can do, the group three's will have to wait a while. many thanks Barry
Another interesting and informative video Barry, it was like one of those very complicated Chinese puzzles! I also still have my Zeus & Dormer drill books from when I started as an apprentice at DBT Leigh back in August 1974. Also I had intended to say on the last 2 videos that I like you updated introduction.
Crikey that was right old fiddly job but well done in your perseverance. I went on David Brown website those draft cables have shot up i didnt pay that for mine. Excellent video as per usual
Hi TC I use expeerience to judge speed, but the real answer to your question is a set of drill speed charts available for people like dormer, they consider the drill dia, the hardness of the material being cut the angle on the drill tip, as some materials such as cast iron can be cut with an angle of 90deg instead of the usual 118deg, and it all comes down to a rotational speed (rpm) that gives the cutting edge a specific feet per minute advance also to add to the mix, each type of material has different ft/min cutting speeds mild steel typically 100ft/min 316 stainless typically 120m/min or less. rule of thumb the smaller the faster many thanks Barry
Cheers Shane, it is rather tight, I think it's easier trying to get a stuck lamb out. it was always on my mind that something was going to end up in the axle. many thanks Barry
For little stuff like that, I chuck it up in the drill and hit it with the grinding wheel while it is spinning and polish it with a 3M pad on a die grinder.
That brought back a few memories of fighting with those parts, quite a few times. That to little lathe would have been ideal for making that part. I will see if there is any where up here has 3/16" 32 tpi nuts. M 😀
Barry I am working on d. B. 880 selectamatic and I have looked every where for. A serial no. And there is no serial plate can you tell me if there’s any to get the serial no any where on the tractor thanks TOM B.
Hi Tom, serial numbers should also be stamped into the front frames normally on the right hand side, I'll try and find a still of mine and put it up on the community tab so you can see where it should be many thanks Barry
Hi Gary, not sure is the simple truth, however I have lokked at the manuals and they appear the same, but if you go to the case website www.mycnhistore.com/ and type in your model etc then do the same for 990 check the part numbers and that will answer your question. hope this helps many thanks Barry
Great job again Barry. I know you are pretty diligent with the grease and I think from memory the best way of holding that right hand push rod in place before getting that fiddly spring on is to pack it with grease in the housing - too late now I know but in case you ever need it out! There does need to be quite a bit of grease on those push rods and rollers as from memory the oil level doesn't go high enough to bathe that housing in oil so it is metal on metal. Certainly the roller in the cam follower needs a good grease - I think you said yours was seized when you got it - so it probably hadn't been greased before that in a long while. There is an outlet in that pipe section that goes into bypass valve that jets oil to that area but the level is quite low and obviously when the tractor isn't running there won't be oil flow anyway and so that area can get all damp and rusty with condensation so I've smothered the entire set of moving parts in plenty of grease. Not long now to firing up the hydraulics so great job again.
Hi Andy, I must of had a blonde moment, as you say I normally give everything a coat of grease, I will have to catch up on that, I could see half a tube going in there. many thanks as always Barry
That was an epic shift you put in there, loved seeing the benchwork, took me back to my apprentice days in the RAF. Bit of a fiddle getting the internals in, but you did it. The weather down here has stopped me getting on stripping the brakes down, no rush though. Keep them coming.
Hi Ken, I had to bite the bullet as the weather is set to go down hill again for the rest of the week, I'll see if I've any shed jobs that I can do, the group three's will have to wait a while.
many thanks
Barry
Another interesting and informative video Barry, it was like one of those very complicated Chinese puzzles! I also still have my Zeus & Dormer drill books from when I started as an apprentice at DBT Leigh back in August 1974. Also I had intended to say on the last 2 videos that I like you updated introduction.
Cheers Terry, I'm always thinking of way and trying to make them a little more interesting for the viewers.
many thanks
Barry
Crikey that was right old fiddly job but well done in your perseverance. I went on David Brown website those draft cables have shot up i didnt pay that for mine. Excellent video as per usual
Hi Jon, they are horrible money, I was so pleased when David Monkhouse dropped me the link and could get it sorted.
many thanks
Barry
How do you know what speed to set your bench drill drilling metal?
Great tip on filling both ways. Try that the next time filling. 👍
Hi TC I use expeerience to judge speed, but the real answer to your question is a set of drill speed charts available for people like dormer, they consider the drill dia, the hardness of the material being cut the angle on the drill tip, as some materials such as cast iron can be cut with an angle of 90deg instead of the usual 118deg, and it all comes down to a rotational speed (rpm) that gives the cutting edge a specific feet per minute advance
also to add to the mix, each type of material has different ft/min cutting speeds
mild steel typically 100ft/min
316 stainless typically 120m/min or less.
rule of thumb the smaller the faster
many thanks
Barry
It's like doing surgery in there! With no space for your hands. And with a camera in the way! 😄 Well done!
Cheers Shane, it is rather tight, I think it's easier trying to get a stuck lamb out.
it was always on my mind that something was going to end up in the axle.
many thanks
Barry
For little stuff like that, I chuck it up in the drill and hit it with the grinding wheel while it is spinning and polish it with a 3M pad on a die grinder.
Cheers Gary,
That brought back a few memories of fighting with those parts, quite a few times. That to little lathe would have been ideal for making that part. I will see if there is any where up here has 3/16" 32 tpi nuts. M 😀
Hi Marshall, for some reason everyone wants to start at 1/4 at least for plain nuts
many thanks
Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 I can get 3/16 BSW but not BSF. I think Zoro had a tap and die set 3/16 32 tpi. M
Barry I am working on d. B. 880 selectamatic and I have looked every where for. A serial no. And there is no serial plate can you tell me if there’s any to get the serial no any where on the tractor thanks TOM B.
Hi Tom, serial numbers should also be stamped into the front frames normally on the right hand side,
I'll try and find a still of mine and put it up on the community tab so you can see where it should be
many thanks
Barry
How similar are the valve chests and controls of a 990 and a 1210 ?
Hi Gary, not sure is the simple truth, however I have lokked at the manuals and they appear the same, but if you go to
the case website www.mycnhistore.com/ and type in your model etc then do the same for 990 check the part numbers and that will answer your question.
hope this helps
many thanks
Barry
Great job again Barry. I know you are pretty diligent with the grease and I think from memory the best way of holding that right hand push rod in place before getting that fiddly spring on is to pack it with grease in the housing - too late now I know but in case you ever need it out! There does need to be quite a bit of grease on those push rods and rollers as from memory the oil level doesn't go high enough to bathe that housing in oil so it is metal on metal. Certainly the roller in the cam follower needs a good grease - I think you said yours was seized when you got it - so it probably hadn't been greased before that in a long while. There is an outlet in that pipe section that goes into bypass valve that jets oil to that area but the level is quite low and obviously when the tractor isn't running there won't be oil flow anyway and so that area can get all damp and rusty with condensation so I've smothered the entire set of moving parts in plenty of grease. Not long now to firing up the hydraulics so great job again.
Hi Andy, I must of had a blonde moment, as you say I normally give everything a coat of grease, I will have to catch up on that, I could see half a tube going in there.
many thanks as always
Barry