Rob, I just got the em1iii and love ❤️ it. But this video of yours was a great help because most of the techniques that expand the dynamic range look awful in jpeg but using the histogram settings technique you demonstrate here looks better than all the rest! Thanks for your insight!
I am so glad to have found you and understand so many things I did not understand yet. I am so grateful and please keep on teaching. Thank you very much!
Rob, this video is fantastic! It's SO informative and SO practical! You don't babble, you don't beat around the bush (like 90% of people out there) but go straight to the point! I'm subscribing to this channel! Thank you!
Thank you for all your advice. Having changed over from Canon to Olympus these are the finest tutorials I have seen and are helping me immensely to understand my camera. Should have made the move a lot sooner. Totally agree with all the praise heaped on you .
Hi Rob, got to say, as an Olympus user, I am really enjoying your videos and they are fantastic for helping me set up m EP-5 and OMD cameras to the best settings. Your video teachings are simply the best, thank you.
Besides the EV compensation we also have the Graduation and Highlight/Shadow gain curve (or tone curve) which alter the amplifier gain. The ISO is an amplifier gain, and the ORF file is affected by changes to the gain. The ORF is not a pure raw file, changes to the way the sensor is read and amplified, and a few other functions (such as selective colour gain), do show up in it. The dynamic range does alter with ISO, so your blowouts will move as you change the ISO. Both Olympus and Panasonic have automatic dynamic range compensation, functions akin to Nikon "Active D-lighting" or Cannon "Automatic Lighting Optimization", on Olympus the "Graduation, on Panasonic the "iDynamic", and appear to be separate to the gain curve available on the PEN-F toggle switch. This may compress the range too much for your liking but can be used surreptitiously to good effect. Some cameras with "high dynamic range" drop that range rapidly with the ISO (I'm thinking Sony). Both Pan and Oly have managed to flatten the top part of the curve so the range doesn't drop so rapidly. The numbers given for dynamic range can vary significantly depending on which test house did the work. Ultimately it doesn't matter, it's about what you can get out of the camera.
@@franke5478 Hello, I am looking for a specific training video that can suggest, in 1 single tutorial, the overall best personalized custom settings (ie. custom bottoms, curves, etc.)... Anything available? Around the are many tutorials and the one from Rob are top but getting 1 single one to recap and provide best overall tips will be perfect and time saving.... For PEN-F please.
I've been plowing through you library of videos and I'm learning more from your channel than I even thought possible. Thank you so much for all these videos!!
This is incredibly good and usefull explanation how to set histogram in camera and why. I watched this month ago and now again and this is really fabulous, not only for begginers. Huge support to keep going on.
Hi Rob I am shooting with the em1 and em5mk2 but much is similar. Here is what I do for Raw. I find it really helps with at the high and low ranges. It keeps exposure more towards the center. Normally I just bring prevent the white blowouts as shadows are easier to pull out 1. Picture Style set to Portrait. 2. Contrast set to minimum. 3. Saturation set to minimum. 4. Gradation set to Auto. Something else I do with my Olympus E-M5 is use the Gradation control. The Gradation control is a curves tool that has 4 settings: Low Key, High Key, Normal, and Auto. Setting it to Low Key further reduces contrast. This is what it says in the manual about the Auto setting: Divides the image into detailed regions and adjusts the brightness separately for each region. This is effective for images with areas of large contrast in which the whites appear too bright or the blacks appear too dark. Rather than use the Low Key setting I have mine set to Auto. I also set Saturation to the minimum. This helps a tiny bit in reducing blowouts in the EVF and also makes the histogram and highlight/shadows blinkies a bit more accurate reflection of what is in the raw file. Since I shoot raw I don't care what the settings do to a jpeg, I just want the EVF to be as useful as possible.
Wow! What an informative video Rob. Really grateful. I have learned more in this 15 minute than in weeks watching all the self-promoting nonsense that we find out there. Thumbs up to you and thanks a million.
Worth mentioning would be that even though setting Picture Mode to Muted with contrast set to -1 or -2 does not effect the raw file, it does effect the histogram as the histogram reads the embedded jpg in the raw file. A Picture Mode with lowered contrast gives the most accurate histogram, certainly not as good as a raw histogram would be but we don't have raw histograms.
Thanks for bringing this up. I didn't mention it because I wasn't sure if this were true for the live histogram display since no picture has been taken yet to read an embedded jpg from a raw file.
True. The live histogram shows luminance values from the sensor. The RGB histogram is read from the embedded jpg. The live histogram is so nice of a tool for telling you that the exposure can be pushed more to the right. The RGB histogram tells you if one of the channels is blown. I especially check the RGB histogram for red barns and red flowers ;-).
Unless there is a setting otherwise, the live histogram measures what the LV display is showing. Logically, if your picture style is set to muted - and muted is what you see in the LV display, then the histogram will reflect that, even though the jpeg hasn't yet been created. Try this - set the LV display exposure preview mode to off, so that no matter what exposure setting you use, the screen does NOT go lighter or darker. Note that while the meter swings + or - around 0, the histogram stays put, (it's reading the LV image) Kind of useless until the photo is taken, at which time it shows you the result.
this was very helpful. I was always told favor the right on the histogram, but never was clearly explained what the high peaks meant. I assumed the goal was to normalize the band before
Great explanation Rob. I realize this video is old but the info is still relevant. I’m really glad I just found your channel you do a great job of explaining in simple terms... looking forward to watching more of your videos, thanks.
Thank you Rob for making all your videos, very well thought out and presented very, very well. They save me many, many hours on the phone with customer service or with my nose stuck in a manuel. Even tho I'm a new Olympus user and am using the new M1x, Olympus was smart enough to not change a lot of things for each camera. Tho you were using the Pen F, I was able to apply it to the M1x.
Just came across your videos and found them very informative - keep them coming please! It's very refreshing to see something useful without the mindless rubbish that is so common on the internet - well done!
Great video Rob. I think that some are suggesting those jpeg settings such as muted and -2 for contrast and saturation, not because it affects the RAW file, but because it allows the evf or rear screen to more accurately display what your raw file will look like, using the screens display jpegs as a guide to optimal exposure. That's my take on it, because some of them recommend shooting in raw only, and still adjusting the jpegs to a flatter profile. They seem to suggest that this is a better way of utilizing the histogram. I'm not sure if this is true but it does make some sense. On the other hand, when I import my raw files into Lightroom, they certainly don't look flat. I guess you can configure LR to minimize the processing it does to your raw files, so maybe this is a technique and workflow that works for some. I've been quite happy leaving my jpeg settings at natural, and all the parameters at 0, because I only shoot in raw so I never paid much attention to the jpeg settings. Maybe I should start....There sure was a whole lot less to worry about when we used manual cameras. I find it ironical that all this automation can make it all so much more work. I used to carry around a meter and a grey card, and never worried about anything else!! Now I have to remember all these complicated procedures.
I think we are really splitting hairs here. There is just too much wiggle room between jpg and raw, between the viewfinder and live view, and nevermind color calibration, raw conversion, and final output to print or online. That's why I recommend the maximum adjustment to the histogram, to stay well within those margins of error. Thanks!
Thanks for your very informative vlogs, I have an em1 still getting to grips with it you have helped me a lot, pretty sure your followers with grow over the weeks as you put across the process in a relaxed easy way, have a good week
Thanks Rob! Just came across your videos. I'm going to have to go back and work my way through all of them now! I'm using an Olympus OM-D E-M10 any really appreciate your teachings.
Great instruction and information. It seems to allow someone to shift the DR similar to using a spot meter and correctly placing the highlights in the correct Zone without mastering zone technique.
Hi Rob, amazing video, as usual. Just one note. You do not mention exposure to the righ (ETTR) approach. If you do that, you normally try to overexpose the photo up to 1 EV (stop) and so shif the histogram to the right, to get more higlight details....
Fantastic video, crystal clear and so much informative. BTW, these information can be easily extended to any Olympus camera and to some extent to to other brands to!
Great video, but I really don't want highlight and shadow warnings popping up all of the time so I set my histogram to 5 - 250, this is good enough for me to have full control over the exposing.
Hi Rob Trek. I've been following the kind of histgram setting, maybe with alittle lesser agessive setings and using such as 5 in the shadows and in the highlights. Not so important as soon as you learn the soul of your historgram behaviour. Today I am jsut leasing the shadow and highlights at 0 and 255 because I became friend with my JPEG beased histogram. I though still keep my contrast and saturation at minimum.Hence I am in quite a good control of my clipping points watching my histogram and it's behaviour. :)
Rob your tutorials are a great help. I have a question. Here you set the camera to shooting RAW only, does shooting RAW +JPEG negate the ability to utilise these settings?
Hi! Do you always set your histogram that way in your everyday shooting? Mine is just set on 254 and 1. Can you make a video about your lightroom settings? Keep the videos coming and thanks.
Yes, I always set my histogram to 245,10. It's a personal preference to help me stay well within the bounds of the cameras dynamic range. I'd be glad to share my lightroom workflow, though it's a bit clunky. I tend to over bake my pictures too. Thanks for watching!
Hello from New York City! When using my camera in manual mode, why does the aperture and shutter speed indicators flash red under certain circumstances? Is it just a warning to the photographer to choose a better exposure settings? Thank you for your informative video.
Hi Rob, Thanks for explaining all the functions of the histogram, brilliant video, I still wondering if the histogram presentation wil be affected by the metering mode. I have tried out it by eliminating but cannot find out. What are your ideas about that.
Hi. I'll look into it. I don't really use the histogram directly much since it's hard for my eyes to see. I do know the green area of the histogram is the center spot.
Hey Rob! First of all, you're awesome!! I've learned a Lot with your videos, I recently got an Olympus OMD E-M10 Mark III and I've been looking in the "D" menu for the histogram settings but I haven't found it yet!! Do You know where I can find it? Or if there's an equivalent option to tweak the hightlights/shadows limits? I'd be so grateful!! Greetings from Colombia!!
Hi Rob, I just took this photo over the weekend, tried your advice and a little bit of post edit through snapseed. Will appreciate your suggestions to improve my skill. I am totally new in this hobby so anything you'll say will be useful for me. :) I'm using Oly EM10MII and lens are mostly Panasonic 20mm with a little bit of Oly 40-150mm instagram.com/p/BYDusc2hU7u/?taken-by=noel_po09
From a technical standpoint, the exposure looks near perfect to me. It's also a beautiful scene. I don't think I would change a thing in the camera settings. You now have a picture that can be adjusted easily to taste. I can see the subtle shades and colors in the clouds and the shadows can be pulled without any noise. So any changes from here would be subjective. In post, I would push the contrast and crush the blacks. I would also increase saturation and adjust the white balance. Finally, I would crop most of the sky out and focus on the color and texture in the rocks. Again, these are personal/subjective choices. Here's a quick edit I did for reference. www.flickr.com/photos/robtrek/35946102943/in/dateposted-public/ I can delete this picture from my page if you prefer.
Can I ask a stupid question, mr rob? Does all this also apply to the olympus 10 mark2? I'm getting lots of grainy/noisy/bleurgh images, and am wondering whether I can alter my histogram settings? Thanks for another amazing tutorial 😍
Yes, same applies. Just remember to keep the shutter speed fast as you can, don't be afraid of high iso. Grain is not a bad thing. Grain mostly comes out in the shadow and dark areas of the picture, so you may need to dial in +1 or +2 exposure compensation.
I've recently switched from a simple point-and-shoot Canon IXUS thingy, to an OM-D E-M10 MKIII, and have since been checking out your channel on more then one occasion. Going by your comment and from what I've gathered sofar, the MKIII does have the highlight and shadows feature, except you can't tweak the histogram settings so as to help one 'stay away' from the 'outer edges' that you typically want to avoid. Is there a way to utilize this feature to max effect (in regards to getting exposure right), even with the 'fixed values' of this feature on the MKIII? (Which I assume for better or worse, indicate the outer edges) Or is it a mere matter of getting as little clipping in this view as possible?
In low light you will see more clipping than there actually is. In normal and bright light you just need to use the exposure comp a little more, but the concept is the same. So if you see clipping at +1EV, then dial in +0.3EV instead. Experiment, but that should get you started. Thanks.
Hi Rob, there are very few videos on this particular subject, and I found this extremely helpful. I thought setting to 245 and 10 would be a mistake at first, I really don't want highlight and shadow warnings popping up all of the time. I figured the (I think it is default) 255/0 settings would be sufficient. So I shot some tests with cotton balls on black leather in the sun - about as high contrast a scene as I could muster. I was surprised to find that with those settings, by the time the highlight warnings appear, just as you said - it is indeed too late to recover all of the highlights. There are times when certain parts of my image are blown out and I don't mind. But when there is a blown highlight on a model's cheek for instance - I really don't want to lose those! So, my E-M1 II's Histogram is now set to 245/10. Thanks for the informative video!
@@RobTrek Great! Thank you so much, Rob! I am very seriously considering switching after 37 years as a Nikoner!!! The Olympus is an amazing camera, grossly underappreciated. Keep up the good work! You are, as many have already stated, an outstanding teacher!
Hey Rob, I have made adjustments in the settings of my Olympus OM DE M10Mkii as per suggestions made by you in various episodes. Subsequently, I wanted to do a Reset ( to default settings) by going to Shooting menu 1..the Reset/Myset are not getting highlighted and as a result, I am unable to do the Reset. Please don't get me wrong, your suggested procedures in settings had nothing to do with this situation. Any advice from you on how I can Reset my camera will be appreciated.
This is a quite sophisticated video, at least to me. Very early on , you clear all factory defaults. Wouldn't that also clear all of the adjusted menus an owner may have taken some tweaking and saving to a C 1,2 etc menu. The video also seems predicated, maybe not, on these images being revised in post. If this assumption is correct, where does that leave users who simply want out of camera images?
Hi, Robert. Yes, the custom settings are erased. I do this to make sure everyone can get the same results if they are following along. Many settings can interfere with each other so this levels the field. The concepts are independent of post processing, so it will up to the photographer how to use them.
Rob Trek The concern I have is that if , what is to me, a considerable amount of time has been devoted to assigning discrete settings to A, M, C1-3, resetting to the factory defaults will erase all that work. Or am I missing something?
Hi. I made a video on menu settings I use. Check out this part: ua-cam.com/video/zJGQg7ug_80/v-deo.html If that doesn't make sense, email me a picture of the back of your screen and I can walk you through it. rob@robtrek.com
Rob, viewed your other ( you have been such a generous creator of Olympus- my clear bias is for the Pen F), video in which you detailed how to set the upper and lower clipping and shadow limits for the Pen F etc, but despite searching, could not find it ?, could you please provide a link? After setting low and from memory, the high clipping level?- 245 as per your video, on reviewing images in camera, saw orange and blue "blow out " type indicators on many images. A little like, black , in and out, shimmering "blow outs" when shooting into the sun with objects in foreground, facing camera, and camera facing sun = potential charcoal figures,if not using exposure compensation. Could you please give me a link to the videos where: one, you demonstrated how to the shadow and highlights of histogram & link to video showing how to keep histogram in SCP. Would be very grateful for your assistance. Yes, rather sadly, appreciate that am an Uber slow learner and was very,very grateful when created a dedicated video on the SCP following a request just posted on, I think your FB page. Have sent you a couple of coffee ☕️ donations. Apology for the convulted nature of this question/ramble. Reflective of my confusion.
Hi, Robert. Sorry for the late reply. The highlight/shadow settings are here: ua-cam.com/video/wnC6k7x94mU/v-deo.html and to see the histogram push the info until it displays in the screen. Let me know if you need any more help. -Rob
This "raw is not affected" is true for the color space too - Adobe RGB/sRGB does only be in effect for the JPEG. These custom 1 and 2 for the LV settings I don't understand, but maybe I've just not played enough with it …
Yes, you are correct. Raw is not affected by color space sRGB or Adobe RGB. The LV settings are more a personal choice, but you do need to make sure the highlight/shadow feature is "Checked ON" so you can see where those values are beginning to clip. Thank you for your feedback!
Well, what the change in "LV-Info" is for in the context of this tutorial I did understand, but why there is "Custom1" and "Custom2" besides "Image Only" I did not. Now that I'm playing with these settings (due to your video) I get the idea behind. There should be a "Custom3" to better customize the INFO button in Live View (this is essentially what this is all about). I always hated the menus on my Sony A7 and thought the Olympus menus superior, but on the Pen F there's too much that can be set, and the default settings are rather silly (at least in my opinion). No wonder most people don't take the Pen F seriously. Many thanks that you show all this. I thought I'm beyond those basic tutorials (being a "seasoned" shooter and having some experience with the Olympus E-PM1 and 2), but now I feel like a rookie and will go through your Pen F tutorials to get more out of it … ;) (One area that I think I have grasped thoroughly is HiRes shooting. I was not sure how it would fare combined with long time exposure, but this turned out to be a good thing with moving objects in the frame that could not be avoided, like people in a night shot or moving leaves - they get nicely blurred instead of leaving lots of artifacts; interestingly, light sources produce the most artifacts in this case, even though they are *not* moving …)
I agree with you on the front dial. It should be programmable. Hi-Res is really neat and can be used creatively if one were so gifted. Thanks for your feedback!
Yes, the raw file is not affected. However, the raw file contains an embedded jpg file. That is what you see in the thumbnail and previews. So for example, if you shoot a raw file in monochrome, you will see it in monochrome until you import it into a raw editor like Lightroom or Olympus Viewer. There you will see it in it's raw format.
So I'm not sure if I'm not getting this but if you are giving yourself a buffer how do you know you aren't actually past the buffer value? For example, if I have it at 245 and I see the clipping warnings how do I know it's actually really not at 255? I mean just because I have it warning at 245 there nothing to say it's actually even higher. Seems that it might be better to set it to the true value and then compensate until the clipping warning stops flashing.
I like your thinking on this. Very logical. But why not apply that workflow at 245? If you begin to see clipping, compensate until it stops. Then you know you're under 245 and saving more data between 245 and 255 than you would if you began compensating at 255. At least that is my contention.
Hi, I'm struggling with the E-M1 II - if I'm on Aperture or Manual priority, I'm not allowed to adjust exposure compensation separately, without affecting the aperture (as in A mode). I can only adjust it when on S mode. Why is that? I can see that your camera live view is on A, but at the bottom the settings look as if it is on S mode. I'm puzzled! 🤔😊
I don't believer exposure come is available in manual mode, so you are adjust the aperture when turning the dial. In aperture priority, check in the menu how your dials are set. By default, the front dial should be for exposure comp.
Do you always set your Colo Profile to AdobeRGB? I've read sRGB is better for skintones, but I've no idea if it's true. Thank you very much for the videos, you help me fall in love with my PEN-F even more. ;-)
I think for most, choosing a color profile is purely academic. sRGB captures less color information, so it's not better than AdobeRGB for any color related work. It's kinda like shooting a video in 1080p vs 4k. I look a lot older in 4k because it's capturing all my wrinkles and gray hair. In 1080p, I look 10 years younger. So some will say skin tones look better in sRGB for the same rational. Following the same analogy, most people own a 1080p television, so 4k doesn't really mean anything to them. For most of us, all our laptops, computer monitors, tablets, phones, etc... run in sRGB so AdobeRGB doesn't add anything. It could even look worse if not converted properly, which may be another reason people say sRGB does better with skin tones. I choose AdobeRGB for my workflow in Lightroom, then export in sRGB. Thanks for watching!
Color profiles only effect jpgs. Raw files are only affected by iso. If you're using olympus viewer 3, the raw files display the color profiles you selected, but the full unprocessed raw file is still there. Lightroom can import the raw files without the color profiles. Even if you set the profile to monotone (black and white), the raw file will still be in full unprocessed color.
You seem to know a lot of color management, may I ask you an question? I'm trying to reproduce a specific look in my images, but I can't get there without help. I really like the style of the images in the Blog www.minimallyminimal.com/. How do you think I could archive a similiar look in my own images?
They are basically adding warm colors and reducing contrast and saturation. In lightroom, start with a white balance corrected picture, then +30% warm on temp, +10% tint, reduce contrast -10%, reduce saturation -10% or more. That should get you closer, then just adjust those four sliders from there. You could go further with split toning, but hard to demonstrate here.
Do you have the "Live View Boost" in the settings on "on" or "off"? The Histogram that shows in the "Live View" screen on the camera monitor I have doesn't appear to do much when the "Live View Boost" is set to "on." Do you have another video that explains this issue please?
I also have a Lumix GX 80. I would like to do the same with it bat cannot find anything in the menu where I could do it. Any Idee where I could find help? Thank you very much.
@@RobTrek Thank you for your replay. I don't think it either as I checkt the complete menu without finding anything comparable. I like them both so when I go out I take one around my neck and one in my hop pocket with only 1 (one) glass each for macro the other for landscape. As with the MFT it is not too much weight it is very comfortable and you don't need to change the classes all the time.- Thank you once again. Elka
I'll have to give that some thought. Movie making is a big subject, because now you're dealing with not just exposure, but time and motion. I've made a few videos in my work, such as recording lectures, a business promo, and, of course, youtube training videos. Was there something specific that you found challenging or you just need to get started? Thank you for your question.
Sir all this setting effect on JPG but you Set camera in Raw.. so hilight and shadow is working on Raw to ? how many functions effects on Raw files in olympus camera ? and sir i send you a email about my video problem and i m waiting your answer. i hope you reply
Surely the 'other' video on this subject, recommending setting Muted, and -2, -2, is to effect the JPEG image on the screen or EVF display that we base the exposure compensation dial roll action on ????? We all (surely) know this WON'T affect the RAW, but that's how I read his advice........
Yes, you are correct! Those settings only affect the jpgs and the embedded jpg in the raw file which is what we see on the evf. Is the other video one of mine? I will need to revise. Thanks.
Why haven't I heard of you? You are the best teacher by far that I have seen on youtube. Thank you!
You're too kind. Thanks for watching!
LoL! Funny, but very true! I've been learning tons from him.
I don’t even have my Pen F yet and I’ve learned a bunch of stuff, I’ll have to rewatch half of the videos with camera in hand.
I also agree & Rob even goes so far as to individually respond to questions placed on his YT videos. Not many YT video presenters do that++
In late 2020, I fully agree.
Rob, I just got the em1iii and love ❤️ it. But this video of yours was a great help because most of the techniques that expand the dynamic range look awful in jpeg but using the histogram settings technique you demonstrate here looks better than all the rest! Thanks for your insight!
I am so glad to have found you and understand so many things I did not understand yet.
I am so grateful and please keep on teaching.
Thank you very much!
You are so welcome!
Rob, this video is fantastic! It's SO informative and SO practical! You don't babble, you don't beat around the bush (like 90% of people out there) but go straight to the point! I'm subscribing to this channel! Thank you!
Thank you!
Thank you very much for sharing this. Your knowledge and gentle delivery are a salve in this noisy world! I've subscribed.
Thanks and welcome
Thank you for all your advice. Having changed over from Canon to Olympus these are the finest tutorials I have seen and are helping me immensely to understand my camera. Should have made the move a lot sooner. Totally agree with all the praise heaped on you .
Thank you!
Hi Rob, got to say, as an Olympus user, I am really enjoying your videos and they are fantastic for helping me set up m EP-5 and OMD cameras to the best settings. Your video teachings are simply the best, thank you.
Thank you!
Besides the EV compensation we also have the Graduation and Highlight/Shadow gain curve (or tone curve) which alter the amplifier gain. The ISO is an amplifier gain, and the ORF file is affected by changes to the gain. The ORF is not a pure raw file, changes to the way the sensor is read and amplified, and a few other functions (such as selective colour gain), do show up in it.
The dynamic range does alter with ISO, so your blowouts will move as you change the ISO.
Both Olympus and Panasonic have automatic dynamic range compensation, functions akin to Nikon "Active D-lighting" or Cannon "Automatic Lighting Optimization", on Olympus the "Graduation, on Panasonic the "iDynamic", and appear to be separate to the gain curve available on the PEN-F toggle switch. This may compress the range too much for your liking but can be used surreptitiously to good effect.
Some cameras with "high dynamic range" drop that range rapidly with the ISO (I'm thinking Sony). Both Pan and Oly have managed to flatten the top part of the curve so the range doesn't drop so rapidly. The numbers given for dynamic range can vary significantly depending on which test house did the work. Ultimately it doesn't matter, it's about what you can get out of the camera.
I appreciate these videos on PEN-F customization. So much potential with this great camera and so much to learn! Your tips are extremely helpful!
Thank you!
It´s just a great plessure to listen to such a expert!!! Thank you very much! Finally somebody who knows what he is talking about.
Wow, thanks!
Rob, you and Peter Forsgard are my photography teachers! Thanks a lot!
One other good guy with lots of tips is Robin Wong.
@@franke5478 Hello, I am looking for a specific training video that can suggest, in 1 single tutorial, the overall best personalized custom settings (ie. custom bottoms, curves, etc.)... Anything available? Around the are many tutorials and the one from Rob are top but getting 1 single one to recap and provide best overall tips will be perfect and time saving.... For PEN-F please.
I've been plowing through you library of videos and I'm learning more from your channel than I even thought possible. Thank you so much for all these videos!!
Thanks for watching!
Protect this man by ANY means! 🔥
Thanks, Eddwin. I'm more of a danger to myself than from others.
I aam so glad I found you. I agree with Thomas Dekany. Best teacher so far. Why are you not employed by Olympus?
Thanks. So many good channels out there, I'm far from the bets, but appreciate the kind words. -Rob
Absolutely fabulous tutorials. Please keep them comming. Subbed!
Thank you!
This is incredibly good and usefull explanation how to set histogram in camera and why. I watched this month ago and now again and this is really fabulous, not only for begginers. Huge support to keep going on.
Thank you!
Hi Rob
I am shooting with the em1 and em5mk2 but much is similar. Here is what I do for Raw. I find it really helps with at the high and low ranges. It keeps exposure more towards the center. Normally I just bring prevent the white blowouts as shadows are easier to pull out
1. Picture Style set to Portrait.
2. Contrast set to minimum.
3. Saturation set to minimum.
4. Gradation set to Auto.
Something else I do with my Olympus E-M5 is use the Gradation control. The Gradation control is a curves tool that has 4 settings: Low Key, High Key, Normal, and Auto. Setting it to Low Key further reduces contrast. This is what it says in the manual about the Auto setting:
Divides the image into detailed regions and adjusts the brightness separately for each region. This is effective for images with areas of large contrast in which the whites appear too bright or the blacks appear too dark.
Rather than use the Low Key setting I have mine set to Auto.
I also set Saturation to the minimum. This helps a tiny bit in reducing blowouts in the EVF and also makes the histogram and highlight/shadows blinkies a bit more accurate reflection of what is in the raw file.
Since I shoot raw I don't care what the settings do to a jpeg, I just want the EVF to be as useful as possible.
Great tips! I didn't think about adjusting for the evf to closer match the raw. Thanks for sharing!
Wow! What an informative video Rob. Really grateful. I have learned more in this 15 minute than in weeks watching all the self-promoting nonsense that we find out there.
Thumbs up to you and thanks a million.
Thank you!
Worth mentioning would be that even though setting Picture Mode to Muted with contrast set to -1 or -2 does not effect the raw file, it does effect the histogram as the histogram reads the embedded jpg in the raw file. A Picture Mode with lowered contrast gives the most accurate histogram, certainly not as good as a raw histogram would be but we don't have raw histograms.
Thanks for bringing this up. I didn't mention it because I wasn't sure if this were true for the live histogram display since no picture has been taken yet to read an embedded jpg from a raw file.
True. The live histogram shows luminance values from the sensor. The RGB histogram is read from the embedded jpg. The live histogram is so nice of a tool for telling you that the exposure can be pushed more to the right. The RGB histogram tells you if one of the channels is blown. I especially check the RGB histogram for red barns and red flowers ;-).
Unless there is a setting otherwise, the live histogram measures what the LV display is showing. Logically, if your picture style is set to muted - and muted is what you see in the LV display, then the histogram will reflect that, even though the jpeg hasn't yet been created.
Try this - set the LV display exposure preview mode to off, so that no matter what exposure setting you use, the screen does NOT go lighter or darker. Note that while the meter swings + or - around 0, the histogram stays put, (it's reading the LV image) Kind of useless until the photo is taken, at which time it shows you the result.
this was very helpful. I was always told favor the right on the histogram, but never was clearly explained what the high peaks meant. I assumed the goal was to normalize the band before
Thank you! I'm not convinced exposing to the right is always best. I think this method is better where you control the exposure.
Great explanation Rob. I realize this video is old but the info is still relevant. I’m really glad I just found your channel you do a great job of explaining in simple terms... looking forward to watching more of your videos, thanks.
Thank you Rob for making all your videos, very well thought out and presented very, very well. They save me many, many hours on the phone with customer service or with my nose stuck in a manuel. Even tho I'm a new Olympus user and am using the new M1x, Olympus was smart enough to not change a lot of things for each camera. Tho you were using the Pen F, I was able to apply it to the M1x.
Thanks for the kind feedback. I really like the em1x when I checked it out at a launch event.
Just came across your videos and found them very informative - keep them coming please!
It's very refreshing to see something useful without the mindless rubbish that is so common on the internet - well done!
GREAT BIT OF INFORMATION.
I WILL BE RETURNING FOR MORE ON THE PEN-F, GREAT CAMERA AND THANK YOU.
Thank you!
Great video Rob. I think that some are suggesting those jpeg settings such as muted and -2 for contrast and saturation, not because it affects the RAW file, but because it allows the evf or rear screen to more accurately display what your raw file will look like, using the screens display jpegs as a guide to optimal exposure. That's my take on it, because some of them recommend shooting in raw only, and still adjusting the jpegs to a flatter profile. They seem to suggest that this is a better way of utilizing the histogram. I'm not sure if this is true but it does make some sense. On the other hand, when I import my raw files into Lightroom, they certainly don't look flat. I guess you can configure LR to minimize the processing it does to your raw files, so maybe this is a technique and workflow that works for some. I've been quite happy leaving my jpeg settings at natural, and all the parameters at 0, because I only shoot in raw so I never paid much attention to the jpeg settings. Maybe I should start....There sure was a whole lot less to worry about when we used manual cameras. I find it ironical that all this automation can make it all so much more work. I used to carry around a meter and a grey card, and never worried about anything else!! Now I have to remember all these complicated procedures.
I think we are really splitting hairs here. There is just too much wiggle room between jpg and raw, between the viewfinder and live view, and nevermind color calibration, raw conversion, and final output to print or online. That's why I recommend the maximum adjustment to the histogram, to stay well within those margins of error. Thanks!
Thank you Rob for your clear and informative videos. I am learning much from you!
Thanks so much for your feedback!
Thanks for your very informative vlogs, I have an em1 still getting to grips with it you have helped me a lot, pretty sure your followers with grow over the weeks as you put across the process in a relaxed easy way, have a good week
Thank you for your feedback!
Catching up on your early ones. another interesting tutorial. Just keep on learning....Thanks
Thanks. I need to redo some of these as a photo walk to show real life use.
Thanks Rob! Just came across your videos. I'm going to have to go back and work my way through all of them now! I'm using an Olympus OM-D E-M10 any really appreciate your teachings.
Thanks. Some of the videos are just my experimenting but hope you find a few good tips overall.
Great instruction and information. It seems to allow someone to shift the DR similar to using a spot meter and correctly placing the highlights in the correct Zone without mastering zone technique.
Thank you!
More great PEN-F info. Thanks Rob..
Thanks for watching!
Hi Rob, amazing video, as usual. Just one note. You do not mention exposure to the righ (ETTR) approach. If you do that, you normally try to overexpose the photo up to 1 EV (stop) and so shif the histogram to the right, to get more higlight details....
Thanks. Probably didn't know what ettr was back then. LOL
Thank you so much Rob for all your videos, you are such a wonderful (and somewhat relaxing :) ) teacher!
Thanks for the kind feedback.
Thanks for explaining all the functions of the histogram, brilliant video, thanks
Thank you for the kind feedback! I appreciate it. -Rob
Another very helpful video Rob Ive just bought the EM1mk2 so on a steep learning curve thanks
Thanks. I will do some em1.2 specific videos in the future. I'm still learning myself!
Thanks a lot for these video tutorials on PEN-F. I surely do welcome more of these! :-)
Thank you!
Good grief I wish I had seen this before I trashed so many pictures with my EM-5................another great, super informative video Rob..........
Wow, episode 3! Oldie but a goodie I guess. I was thinking of redoing this one.
Thank you for sharing. He helped me a lot.You are a very good teacher.
Thank you for saying!
Great Video. I have just ordered the Pen F and discovered your channel.
Pen-F is awesome. Love the look and feel. Just wish it had a mic jack or the mic adapter option like on my pen pl8.
Great succinct information. Thank you ☺️
You are so welcome!
Fantastic video, crystal clear and so much informative. BTW, these information can be easily extended to any Olympus camera and to some extent to to other brands to!
Thanks. Yes, you are correct - most Olympus cameras.
Great video, but I really don't want highlight and shadow warnings popping up all of the time so I set my histogram to 5 - 250, this is good enough for me to have full control over the exposing.
Thanks, Kent. Many have told me they prefer to dial it back a bit. It's great that it's adjustable, unlike many cameras with this feature.
Hi Rob Trek. I've been following the kind of histgram setting, maybe with alittle lesser agessive setings and using such as 5 in the shadows and in the highlights. Not so important as soon as you learn the soul of your historgram behaviour.
Today I am jsut leasing the shadow and highlights at 0 and 255 because I became friend with my JPEG beased histogram. I though still keep my contrast and saturation at minimum.Hence I am in quite a good control of my clipping points watching my histogram and it's behaviour. :)
I still don't use the histogram itself much since using just highlights and shadows indicators.
This was quite interesting. I will give it a try on my e-m1. Thank you very much.
Thank you for watching! -Rob
Rob your tutorials are a great help. I have a question. Here you set the camera to shooting RAW only, does shooting RAW +JPEG negate the ability to utilise these settings?
Thanks. You can use these settings for jpgs. The benefit is even greater.
Thank you very much - this has helped such a lot.
Glad to help. Thanks.
AWESOME, just found you recently and love your videos, I'm an oly shooter doing landscape and this is a great tip :D
Thanks. I may update this video soon for production reasons, not that anything is technically different.
Great tip knocking the edges off the clip points.
That sums it up nicely. Thanks!
Great video. Very useful and easy to follow along
Thank you!
Thank you!
Hi Rob. Great tutorial about tweaking the histogram. Should you always keep the histogram setting on 245/10?
Thanks. I prefer it to help me stay within the dynamic range of the camera. You could try other settings, but I like to keep it simple and consistent.
Very useful, thx Rob
Thanks!
Excellent video, thank you very much for the detailed and professional video.
Thanks!
Hi! Do you always set your histogram that way in your everyday shooting? Mine is just set on 254 and 1. Can you make a video about your lightroom settings? Keep the videos coming and thanks.
Yes, I always set my histogram to 245,10. It's a personal preference to help me stay well within the bounds of the cameras dynamic range. I'd be glad to share my lightroom workflow, though it's a bit clunky. I tend to over bake my pictures too. Thanks for watching!
Thnks Rob another really helpful video
Thank you for taking the time to write in the comments. I greatly appreciate your kind feedback!
Hello from New York City! When using my camera in manual mode, why does the aperture and shutter speed indicators flash red under certain circumstances? Is it just a warning to the photographer to choose a better exposure settings? Thank you for your informative video.
It's telling that the camera can't achieve a normal 18% grey exposure. It may have hit a limit either on aperture or shutter speed or both.
Hi Rob, Thanks for explaining all the functions of the histogram, brilliant video,
I still wondering if the histogram presentation wil be affected by the metering mode. I have tried out it by eliminating but cannot find out. What are your ideas about that.
Hi. I'll look into it. I don't really use the histogram directly much since it's hard for my eyes to see. I do know the green area of the histogram is the center spot.
I actually went to a camera show and told Olympus reps about you. They had not heard of you but said they would check you out.
Best expansion of histogram I have seen (for m).
Thank you!
Excellent explanation!
Thank you!
Thank you so much Rob! very useful information!
Thank you!
your videos are great
I appreciate that!
Hey Rob! First of all, you're awesome!! I've learned a Lot with your videos, I recently got an Olympus OMD E-M10 Mark III and I've been looking in the "D" menu for the histogram settings but I haven't found it yet!! Do You know where I can find it? Or if there's an equivalent option to tweak the hightlights/shadows limits? I'd be so grateful!! Greetings from Colombia!!
Thanks. Unfortunately this feature is not available on the Mark III.
I usually ignore this kind of setting on my EP3.
But now, thanks a lot
Hope it helps. Thanks for watching!
This is very helpful! I am always having trouble getting the details of the clouds. Will try it this weekend. :)
Thanks! Would love to see your pics. Let me know if you post them online and where. -Rob
Hi Rob,
I just took this photo over the weekend, tried your advice and a little bit of post edit through snapseed. Will appreciate your suggestions to improve my skill. I am totally new in this hobby so anything you'll say will be useful for me. :)
I'm using Oly EM10MII and lens are mostly Panasonic 20mm with a little bit of Oly 40-150mm
instagram.com/p/BYDusc2hU7u/?taken-by=noel_po09
From a technical standpoint, the exposure looks near perfect to me. It's also a beautiful scene. I don't think I would change a thing in the camera settings. You now have a picture that can be adjusted easily to taste. I can see the subtle shades and colors in the clouds and the shadows can be pulled without any noise. So any changes from here would be subjective. In post, I would push the contrast and crush the blacks. I would also increase saturation and adjust the white balance. Finally, I would crop most of the sky out and focus on the color and texture in the rocks. Again, these are personal/subjective choices. Here's a quick edit I did for reference.
www.flickr.com/photos/robtrek/35946102943/in/dateposted-public/ I can delete this picture from my page if you prefer.
Got it, your edits look better for me as well, I'll be travelling on Sept 10, will try your advice. Thanks a lot. :-)
Thanks a lot Rob, great job!
Thank you for watching!
thank you for this information ! keep making useful videos !
Thank you for watching and your feedback!
Wow very good content. Subscribed you. Very good teacher. Thank you!
Thanks for the sub!
Rob Trek As i mentioned, you are a very good teacher! Its a joy to wach your shows
Can I ask a stupid question, mr rob? Does all this also apply to the olympus 10 mark2? I'm getting lots of grainy/noisy/bleurgh images, and am wondering whether I can alter my histogram settings? Thanks for another amazing tutorial 😍
Yes, same applies. Just remember to keep the shutter speed fast as you can, don't be afraid of high iso. Grain is not a bad thing. Grain mostly comes out in the shadow and dark areas of the picture, so you may need to dial in +1 or +2 exposure compensation.
Thank you so much Mr Rob. I'll try this today. I really, really appreciate all your help. Thank you 😍
excellent presentation. Thank You
Thank you!
Hi Rob, is this histogram setting relevant for the OMD-E1 Mark ||? Thank you
Yes!
Great tutorial! Thanks for doing this :)
Thank you!
Thank you for the very informative tutorial. Appreciate it very much :)
Thank you for your positive feedback!
whow, thank you very much! jörg from germany
Thank you!
I've recently switched from a simple point-and-shoot Canon IXUS thingy, to an OM-D E-M10 MKIII, and have since been checking out your channel on more then one occasion. Going by your comment and from what I've gathered sofar, the MKIII does have the highlight and shadows feature, except you can't tweak the histogram settings so as to help one 'stay away' from the 'outer edges' that you typically want to avoid.
Is there a way to utilize this feature to max effect (in regards to getting exposure right), even with the 'fixed values' of this feature on the MKIII? (Which I assume for better or worse, indicate the outer edges) Or is it a mere matter of getting as little clipping in this view as possible?
In low light you will see more clipping than there actually is. In normal and bright light you just need to use the exposure comp a little more, but the concept is the same. So if you see clipping at +1EV, then dial in +0.3EV instead. Experiment, but that should get you started. Thanks.
Hi Rob, there are very few videos on this particular subject, and I found this extremely helpful. I thought setting to 245 and 10 would be a mistake at first, I really don't want highlight and shadow warnings popping up all of the time. I figured the (I think it is default) 255/0 settings would be sufficient. So I shot some tests with cotton balls on black leather in the sun - about as high contrast a scene as I could muster. I was surprised to find that with those settings, by the time the highlight warnings appear, just as you said - it is indeed too late to recover all of the highlights. There are times when certain parts of my image are blown out and I don't mind. But when there is a blown highlight on a model's cheek for instance - I really don't want to lose those! So, my E-M1 II's Histogram is now set to 245/10. Thanks for the informative video!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm glad those settings worked for you. I may update this video after I get my EM5-III.
Thank you, Rob! I don't have an OM-D yet but can you do the same in OM-D E-M5 MkIII? Thanks!
Yes, I am updating my content soon.
@@RobTrek Great! Thank you so much, Rob! I am very seriously considering switching after 37 years as a Nikoner!!! The Olympus is an amazing camera, grossly underappreciated.
Keep up the good work! You are, as many have already stated, an outstanding teacher!
Hey Rob,
I have made adjustments in the settings of my Olympus OM DE M10Mkii as per suggestions made by you in various episodes. Subsequently, I wanted to do a Reset ( to default settings) by going to Shooting menu 1..the Reset/Myset are not getting highlighted and as a result, I am unable to do the Reset. Please don't get me wrong, your suggested procedures in settings had nothing to do with this situation. Any advice from you on how I can Reset my camera will be appreciated.
You probably have your camera in movie mode. Try turning the mode dial to P,A,S, or M
I learned a lot!
Thanks for watching!
This is a quite sophisticated video, at least to me.
Very early on , you clear all factory defaults. Wouldn't that also clear all of the adjusted menus an owner may have taken some tweaking and saving to a C 1,2 etc menu.
The video also seems predicated, maybe not, on these images being revised in post.
If this assumption is correct, where does that leave users who simply want out of camera images?
Hi, Robert. Yes, the custom settings are erased. I do this to make sure everyone can get the same results if they are following along. Many settings can interfere with each other so this levels the field. The concepts are independent of post processing, so it will up to the photographer how to use them.
Rob Trek The concern I have is that if , what is to me, a considerable amount of time has been devoted to assigning discrete settings to A, M, C1-3, resetting to the factory defaults will erase all that work.
Or am I missing something?
@@robertcudlipp3832 You're not missing anything, all will be erased. You can however do a "basic" reset that will preseve your C1-C3, but not A,M.
Really enjoying your video, hoping this will also work with EMl Markell.
Exactly the same!
My EM 10 has different settings within LV-Info. There are 4 things to select or deselect. Which do you recommend?
Hi. I made a video on menu settings I use. Check out this part: ua-cam.com/video/zJGQg7ug_80/v-deo.html
If that doesn't make sense, email me a picture of the back of your screen and I can walk you through it. rob@robtrek.com
Rob, viewed your other ( you have been such a generous creator of Olympus- my clear bias is for the Pen F), video in which you detailed how to set the upper and lower clipping and shadow limits for the Pen F etc, but despite searching, could not find it ?, could you please provide a link?
After setting low and from memory, the high clipping level?- 245 as per your video, on reviewing images in camera, saw orange and blue "blow out " type indicators on many images. A little like, black , in and out, shimmering "blow outs" when shooting into the sun with objects in foreground, facing camera, and camera facing sun = potential charcoal figures,if not using exposure compensation.
Could you please give me a link to the videos where: one, you demonstrated how to the shadow and highlights of histogram & link to video showing how to keep histogram in SCP.
Would be very grateful for your assistance. Yes, rather sadly, appreciate that am an Uber slow learner and was very,very grateful when created a dedicated video on the SCP following a request just posted on, I think your FB page. Have sent you a couple of coffee ☕️ donations.
Apology for the convulted nature of this question/ramble. Reflective of my confusion.
Hi, Robert. Sorry for the late reply. The highlight/shadow settings are here: ua-cam.com/video/wnC6k7x94mU/v-deo.html and to see the histogram push the info until it displays in the screen. Let me know if you need any more help. -Rob
This "raw is not affected" is true for the color space too - Adobe RGB/sRGB does only be in effect for the JPEG. These custom 1 and 2 for the LV settings I don't understand, but maybe I've just not played enough with it …
Yes, you are correct. Raw is not affected by color space sRGB or Adobe RGB. The LV settings are more a personal choice, but you do need to make sure the highlight/shadow feature is "Checked ON" so you can see where those values are beginning to clip. Thank you for your feedback!
Well, what the change in "LV-Info" is for in the context of this tutorial I did understand, but why there is "Custom1" and "Custom2" besides "Image Only" I did not. Now that I'm playing with these settings (due to your video) I get the idea behind. There should be a "Custom3" to better customize the INFO button in Live View (this is essentially what this is all about).
I always hated the menus on my Sony A7 and thought the Olympus menus superior, but on the Pen F there's too much that can be set, and the default settings are rather silly (at least in my opinion). No wonder most people don't take the Pen F seriously.
Many thanks that you show all this. I thought I'm beyond those basic tutorials (being a "seasoned" shooter and having some experience with the Olympus E-PM1 and 2), but now I feel like a rookie and will go through your Pen F tutorials to get more out of it … ;)
(One area that I think I have grasped thoroughly is HiRes shooting. I was not sure how it would fare combined with long time exposure, but this turned out to be a good thing with moving objects in the frame that could not be avoided, like people in a night shot or moving leaves - they get nicely blurred instead of leaving lots of artifacts; interestingly, light sources produce the most artifacts in this case, even though they are *not* moving …)
I agree with you on the front dial. It should be programmable. Hi-Res is really neat and can be used creatively if one were so gifted. Thanks for your feedback!
Great tip. Thanks.
Thank you!
Nice and very useful...thx
Thank you!
The Pen F contrast setting wouldn’t make any difference when shooting RAW files correct ? It is just a jpg mode tool ?
Yes, the raw file is not affected. However, the raw file contains an embedded jpg file. That is what you see in the thumbnail and previews. So for example, if you shoot a raw file in monochrome, you will see it in monochrome until you import it into a raw editor like Lightroom or Olympus Viewer. There you will see it in it's raw format.
So I'm not sure if I'm not getting this but if you are giving yourself a buffer how do you know you aren't actually past the buffer value? For example, if I have it at 245 and I see the clipping warnings how do I know it's actually really not at 255? I mean just because I have it warning at 245 there nothing to say it's actually even higher. Seems that it might be better to set it to the true value and then compensate until the clipping warning stops flashing.
I like your thinking on this. Very logical. But why not apply that workflow at 245? If you begin to see clipping, compensate until it stops. Then you know you're under 245 and saving more data between 245 and 255 than you would if you began compensating at 255. At least that is my contention.
@@RobTrek Oh I see what you mean.
QUESTIONS. When solely editing RAW on the ipad pro, do we have to switch the in camera color setting to Adobe or RBG?
No, that setting is only for jpg.
Hi, I'm struggling with the E-M1 II - if I'm on Aperture or Manual priority, I'm not allowed to adjust exposure compensation separately, without affecting the aperture (as in A mode). I can only adjust it when on S mode. Why is that? I can see that your camera live view is on A, but at the bottom the settings look as if it is on S mode. I'm puzzled! 🤔😊
I don't believer exposure come is available in manual mode, so you are adjust the aperture when turning the dial. In aperture priority, check in the menu how your dials are set. By default, the front dial should be for exposure comp.
@@RobTrek Thank you.
Do you always set your Colo Profile to AdobeRGB? I've read sRGB is better for skintones, but I've no idea if it's true. Thank you very much for the videos, you help me fall in love with my PEN-F even more. ;-)
I think for most, choosing a color profile is purely academic. sRGB captures less color information, so it's not better than AdobeRGB for any color related work. It's kinda like shooting a video in 1080p vs 4k. I look a lot older in 4k because it's capturing all my wrinkles and gray hair. In 1080p, I look 10 years younger. So some will say skin tones look better in sRGB for the same rational. Following the same analogy, most people own a 1080p television, so 4k doesn't really mean anything to them. For most of us, all our laptops, computer monitors, tablets, phones, etc... run in sRGB so AdobeRGB doesn't add anything. It could even look worse if not converted properly, which may be another reason people say sRGB does better with skin tones. I choose AdobeRGB for my workflow in Lightroom, then export in sRGB. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I got one follow up question: Does the color profil affect the JPGs or only the RAW-files?
Color profiles only effect jpgs. Raw files are only affected by iso. If you're using olympus viewer 3, the raw files display the color profiles you selected, but the full unprocessed raw file is still there. Lightroom can import the raw files without the color profiles. Even if you set the profile to monotone (black and white), the raw file will still be in full unprocessed color.
You seem to know a lot of color management, may I ask you an question? I'm trying to reproduce a specific look in my images, but I can't get there without help. I really like the style of the images in the Blog www.minimallyminimal.com/. How do you think I could archive a similiar look in my own images?
They are basically adding warm colors and reducing contrast and saturation. In lightroom, start with a white balance corrected picture, then +30% warm on temp, +10% tint, reduce contrast -10%, reduce saturation -10% or more. That should get you closer, then just adjust those four sliders from there. You could go further with split toning, but hard to demonstrate here.
Do you have the "Live View Boost" in the settings on "on" or "off"? The Histogram that shows in the "Live View" screen on the camera monitor I have doesn't appear to do much when the "Live View Boost" is set to "on."
Do you have another video that explains this issue please?
Hi. I actually cover this issue here: ua-cam.com/video/BeRw3VUWz2s/v-deo.html
@@RobTrek Thank you!! You are the BEST!!!
I also have a Lumix GX 80. I would like to do the same with it bat cannot find anything in the menu
where I could do it.
Any Idee where I could find help?
Thank you very much.
Unfortunately no. I don't think the GX80 has such a feature.
@@RobTrek
Thank you for your replay. I don't think it either as I checkt the complete menu
without finding anything comparable.
I like them both so when I go out I take one around my neck and one in my hop pocket
with only 1 (one) glass each for macro the other for landscape.
As with the MFT it is not too much weight it is very comfortable and you don't need
to change the classes all the time.-
Thank you once again. Elka
Interesting points
Thanks!
Thank you so much!!!
Thanks for watching my channel!
Can you do a video on how to set up the pen f for making movies? Thanks.
I'll have to give that some thought. Movie making is a big subject, because now you're dealing with not just exposure, but time and motion. I've made a few videos in my work, such as recording lectures, a business promo, and, of course, youtube training videos. Was there something specific that you found challenging or you just need to get started? Thank you for your question.
I just need to get started, I have never done this before. Thanks
Sure. I can go over a couple of basic settings to get started, limitations, and unique features. Great idea! Thanks for your question. -Rob
Thank you.
Thank you for watching! -Rob
Sir all this setting effect on JPG but you Set camera in Raw.. so hilight and shadow is working on Raw to ? how many functions effects on Raw files in olympus camera ? and sir i send you a email about my video problem and i m waiting your answer. i hope you reply
Only thing affects raw is the ISO. Everything else is for jpg. I got your video, will look at it tonight. Which camera do you have?
@@RobTrek THX SIR. I HAVE OLYMPUS EM 10 MARK 2.
Does this relate to my OM-D 10 mk II in the same way?
Should be exactly the same!
I just followed along with my EM10 mk II, and the menus are the same.
Surely the 'other' video on this subject, recommending setting Muted, and -2, -2, is to effect the JPEG image on the screen or EVF display that we base the exposure compensation dial roll action on ?????
We all (surely) know this WON'T affect the RAW, but that's how I read his advice........
Yes, you are correct! Those settings only affect the jpgs and the embedded jpg in the raw file which is what we see on the evf. Is the other video one of mine? I will need to revise. Thanks.
@@RobTrek ua-cam.com/video/H2h2F4juJAc/v-deo.html
.....I DID find your Histogram Settings (245 and 10) much better. Keep up the good work......
Exactly and thanks :)
Thank you for your feedback! Glad you liked it. -Rob
Thanks - good to know :)
Thank you for watching!